1 00:00:02,880 --> 00:00:04,880 MICHAEL PALIN: 'I'm heading into Zulia State.' 2 00:00:04,920 --> 00:00:05,160 MICHAEL PALIN: 'I'm heading into Zulia State.' 3 00:00:06,800 --> 00:00:08,800 So, apparently, this area here is where the Foreign Office 4 00:00:08,840 --> 00:00:09,480 So, apparently, this area here is where the Foreign Office 5 00:00:09,520 --> 00:00:11,320 give a red warning about it and all that, 6 00:00:11,360 --> 00:00:13,120 and have done for a while, why is that? 7 00:00:13,160 --> 00:00:15,160 Of course, we share the border with Colombia. 8 00:00:15,200 --> 00:00:16,920 Of course, we share the border with Colombia. 9 00:00:16,960 --> 00:00:18,960 Now a huge problem there because the forces and the guerrillas, 10 00:00:19,000 --> 00:00:20,680 Now a huge problem there because the forces and the guerrillas, 11 00:00:20,720 --> 00:00:22,080 they are fighting now. 12 00:00:22,120 --> 00:00:24,120 Yeah, now the army arrive. 13 00:00:24,160 --> 00:00:26,160 'With warring gangs either side of the border, 14 00:00:26,200 --> 00:00:27,240 'With warring gangs either side of the border, 15 00:00:27,280 --> 00:00:29,280 'this is one of the most dangerous parts of the country. 16 00:00:29,320 --> 00:00:30,200 'this is one of the most dangerous parts of the country. 17 00:00:32,600 --> 00:00:34,600 'But despite security concerns, 18 00:00:34,640 --> 00:00:35,680 'But despite security concerns, 19 00:00:35,720 --> 00:00:37,720 'Zulia State is an important part of understanding Venezuela.' 20 00:00:37,760 --> 00:00:39,760 'Zulia State is an important part of understanding Venezuela.' 21 00:00:39,800 --> 00:00:40,320 'Zulia State is an important part of understanding Venezuela.' 22 00:00:40,360 --> 00:00:42,120 This is the River Concha, 23 00:00:42,160 --> 00:00:44,160 which is gonna lead us through to Lake Maracaibo. 24 00:00:44,200 --> 00:00:45,080 which is gonna lead us through to Lake Maracaibo. 25 00:00:50,720 --> 00:00:52,560 'I'm starting the final 26 00:00:52,600 --> 00:00:54,600 'and most challenging week of my journey. 27 00:00:54,640 --> 00:00:55,560 'and most challenging week of my journey. 28 00:00:59,480 --> 00:01:01,480 'Venezuela, a country plagued by bad news. 29 00:01:01,520 --> 00:01:02,480 'Venezuela, a country plagued by bad news. 30 00:01:05,160 --> 00:01:07,160 'Often described as being the most unstable in South America, 31 00:01:07,200 --> 00:01:09,120 'Often described as being the most unstable in South America, 32 00:01:09,160 --> 00:01:11,160 'ruled by an authoritarian leader. 33 00:01:11,200 --> 00:01:11,880 'ruled by an authoritarian leader. 34 00:01:11,920 --> 00:01:13,800 'Its economy has collapsed - 35 00:01:13,840 --> 00:01:15,840 'leading to over eight million people fleeing the country. 36 00:01:15,880 --> 00:01:17,880 'leading to over eight million people fleeing the country. 37 00:01:17,920 --> 00:01:18,160 'leading to over eight million people fleeing the country. 38 00:01:18,200 --> 00:01:20,200 'But I've discovered...' 39 00:01:20,240 --> 00:01:20,440 'But I've discovered...' 40 00:01:20,480 --> 00:01:21,760 Whoa! 41 00:01:21,800 --> 00:01:23,440 '..it's amazing.' 42 00:01:24,600 --> 00:01:26,160 Absolutely beautiful. 43 00:01:27,520 --> 00:01:29,520 'From the Andes mountains to the Amazon rainforest, 44 00:01:29,560 --> 00:01:31,320 'From the Andes mountains to the Amazon rainforest, 45 00:01:31,360 --> 00:01:33,360 'Venezuela contains almost every landscape imaginable.' 46 00:01:33,400 --> 00:01:35,400 'Venezuela contains almost every landscape imaginable.' 47 00:01:35,440 --> 00:01:35,640 'Venezuela contains almost every landscape imaginable.' 48 00:01:37,120 --> 00:01:38,800 I've seen it all now! 49 00:01:38,840 --> 00:01:40,240 'And its people...' 50 00:01:40,280 --> 00:01:41,480 And your dress. 51 00:01:41,520 --> 00:01:42,880 Ooh. I mean, wow! 52 00:01:42,920 --> 00:01:44,480 You like my dress? That is colour. 53 00:01:44,520 --> 00:01:46,520 '..are some of the friendliest in the world.' 54 00:01:46,560 --> 00:01:46,800 '..are some of the friendliest in the world.' 55 00:01:46,840 --> 00:01:48,640 I love to be talking with you 56 00:01:48,680 --> 00:01:50,680 because you ask me things that I have never been asked. 57 00:01:50,720 --> 00:01:51,800 because you ask me things that I have never been asked. 58 00:01:51,840 --> 00:01:53,840 'After two weeks, I have a good understanding 59 00:01:53,880 --> 00:01:54,600 'After two weeks, I have a good understanding 60 00:01:54,640 --> 00:01:56,640 'of this dystopian paradise.' 61 00:01:56,680 --> 00:01:57,080 'of this dystopian paradise.' 62 00:01:57,120 --> 00:01:59,120 We might be arrested and detained. They were threatening. 63 00:01:59,160 --> 00:02:01,160 We might be arrested and detained. They were threatening. 64 00:02:01,200 --> 00:02:01,480 We might be arrested and detained. They were threatening. 65 00:02:02,800 --> 00:02:04,280 'Now I'm going to travel 66 00:02:04,320 --> 00:02:06,320 'to some of the most dangerous parts of the country 67 00:02:06,360 --> 00:02:08,360 'to understand what led to Venezuela's collapse.' 68 00:02:08,400 --> 00:02:10,200 'to understand what led to Venezuela's collapse.' 69 00:02:11,560 --> 00:02:13,560 As you come into town, it looks like a wasteland. 70 00:02:13,600 --> 00:02:14,080 As you come into town, it looks like a wasteland. 71 00:02:15,760 --> 00:02:17,760 'I try to look to the future.' 72 00:02:17,800 --> 00:02:19,800 That looks kind of beguiling, the whole place. 73 00:02:19,840 --> 00:02:20,480 That looks kind of beguiling, the whole place. 74 00:02:20,520 --> 00:02:22,520 'And carnival season is here.' 75 00:02:22,560 --> 00:02:23,240 'And carnival season is here.' 76 00:02:25,200 --> 00:02:27,200 And there's the dragon, a wonderful... Whoa! 77 00:02:27,240 --> 00:02:28,160 And there's the dragon, a wonderful... Whoa! 78 00:02:35,000 --> 00:02:37,000 I'm travelling across Lake Maracaibo, 79 00:02:37,040 --> 00:02:37,880 I'm travelling across Lake Maracaibo, 80 00:02:37,920 --> 00:02:39,920 which covers over 5,000 square miles. 81 00:02:39,960 --> 00:02:41,880 which covers over 5,000 square miles. 82 00:02:41,920 --> 00:02:43,920 It's also home to the Catatumbo lightning... 83 00:02:43,960 --> 00:02:44,800 It's also home to the Catatumbo lightning... 84 00:02:46,080 --> 00:02:48,080 ..with almost two million bolts a year. 85 00:02:48,120 --> 00:02:49,280 ..with almost two million bolts a year. 86 00:02:51,320 --> 00:02:53,320 There is more lightning here than anywhere else in the world. 87 00:02:53,360 --> 00:02:53,880 There is more lightning here than anywhere else in the world. 88 00:02:56,760 --> 00:02:58,760 And I'm travelling three hours across the lake 89 00:02:58,800 --> 00:02:59,640 And I'm travelling three hours across the lake 90 00:02:59,680 --> 00:03:01,680 to a traditional stilt village called Ologa, 91 00:03:01,720 --> 00:03:03,280 to a traditional stilt village called Ologa, 92 00:03:03,320 --> 00:03:05,320 which is the best place to see this phenomenon. 93 00:03:05,360 --> 00:03:06,440 which is the best place to see this phenomenon. 94 00:03:06,480 --> 00:03:08,480 You can, on a good night, or a bad night for the locals, 95 00:03:08,520 --> 00:03:10,520 You can, on a good night, or a bad night for the locals, 96 00:03:10,560 --> 00:03:10,840 You can, on a good night, or a bad night for the locals, 97 00:03:10,880 --> 00:03:12,880 see terrific storms and spectacular lightning 98 00:03:12,920 --> 00:03:14,360 see terrific storms and spectacular lightning 99 00:03:14,400 --> 00:03:16,400 which carries on half the night. 100 00:03:16,440 --> 00:03:16,680 which carries on half the night. 101 00:03:16,720 --> 00:03:18,640 I mean, it would be nice if we could see that. 102 00:03:20,280 --> 00:03:22,280 'Ologa is very much a fishing community, 103 00:03:22,320 --> 00:03:23,320 'Ologa is very much a fishing community, 104 00:03:23,360 --> 00:03:25,360 'and on the way, I notice some boats... 105 00:03:25,400 --> 00:03:25,960 'and on the way, I notice some boats... 106 00:03:27,640 --> 00:03:29,640 '..using an unusual technique. 107 00:03:29,680 --> 00:03:30,000 '..using an unusual technique. 108 00:03:32,880 --> 00:03:34,880 'So I jump on board to take a closer look.' 109 00:03:34,920 --> 00:03:36,160 'So I jump on board to take a closer look.' 110 00:03:36,200 --> 00:03:38,200 Absolutely fascinating process. Very, very simple. 111 00:03:38,240 --> 00:03:40,240 Absolutely fascinating process. Very, very simple. 112 00:03:40,280 --> 00:03:40,640 Absolutely fascinating process. Very, very simple. 113 00:03:40,680 --> 00:03:42,680 And they're catching - wahey, there we go - blue crab. 114 00:03:42,720 --> 00:03:44,080 And they're catching - wahey, there we go - blue crab. 115 00:03:44,120 --> 00:03:46,120 And what they do is they put a line out 116 00:03:46,160 --> 00:03:48,160 And what they do is they put a line out 117 00:03:48,200 --> 00:03:48,440 And what they do is they put a line out 118 00:03:48,480 --> 00:03:50,480 and bait it with chicken heads, 119 00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:51,440 and bait it with chicken heads, 120 00:03:51,480 --> 00:03:53,480 and then they go up the line, as this guy's doing, 121 00:03:53,520 --> 00:03:54,280 and then they go up the line, as this guy's doing, 122 00:03:54,320 --> 00:03:56,320 and just with absolutely sort of total concentration, 123 00:03:56,360 --> 00:03:58,360 and just with absolutely sort of total concentration, 124 00:03:58,400 --> 00:03:58,880 and just with absolutely sort of total concentration, 125 00:03:58,920 --> 00:04:00,920 manages to get them up, flick them and they come back here. 126 00:04:00,960 --> 00:04:02,960 manages to get them up, flick them and they come back here. 127 00:04:03,000 --> 00:04:03,240 manages to get them up, flick them and they come back here. 128 00:04:03,280 --> 00:04:04,200 Here we go. 129 00:04:05,680 --> 00:04:07,680 'Crab fishing is a tradition on the lake, 130 00:04:07,720 --> 00:04:08,000 'Crab fishing is a tradition on the lake, 131 00:04:08,040 --> 00:04:10,040 'but while this will be sold for around $60 a kilo in America, 132 00:04:10,080 --> 00:04:12,080 'but while this will be sold for around $60 a kilo in America, 133 00:04:12,120 --> 00:04:13,800 'but while this will be sold for around $60 a kilo in America, 134 00:04:13,840 --> 00:04:15,840 'the fishermen only get about 90 cents.' 135 00:04:15,880 --> 00:04:16,320 'the fishermen only get about 90 cents.' 136 00:04:16,360 --> 00:04:18,360 Makes me feel a bit bad for liking crab. 137 00:04:18,400 --> 00:04:19,240 Makes me feel a bit bad for liking crab. 138 00:04:21,600 --> 00:04:23,600 'An hour later, we approach our lightning viewing point.' 139 00:04:23,640 --> 00:04:25,240 'An hour later, we approach our lightning viewing point.' 140 00:04:26,760 --> 00:04:28,720 You can see it in the distance now. 141 00:04:28,760 --> 00:04:30,760 It's a very, very small fishing village. 142 00:04:30,800 --> 00:04:32,720 It's a very, very small fishing village. 143 00:04:33,960 --> 00:04:35,960 'Ologa is around 200 years old, 144 00:04:36,000 --> 00:04:36,840 'Ologa is around 200 years old, 145 00:04:36,880 --> 00:04:38,880 'but the tradition of stilt villages on the lake 146 00:04:38,920 --> 00:04:40,000 'but the tradition of stilt villages on the lake 147 00:04:40,040 --> 00:04:42,040 'dates back to before Europeans arrived here in the 15th century.' 148 00:04:42,080 --> 00:04:44,080 'dates back to before Europeans arrived here in the 15th century.' 149 00:04:44,120 --> 00:04:44,320 'dates back to before Europeans arrived here in the 15th century.' 150 00:04:46,600 --> 00:04:48,320 The houses are built on stilts. 151 00:04:49,840 --> 00:04:51,840 And that's the way the indigenous people 152 00:04:51,880 --> 00:04:52,200 And that's the way the indigenous people 153 00:04:52,240 --> 00:04:53,800 often built their houses. 154 00:04:55,480 --> 00:04:57,480 When the first Spanish settlers came to Venezuela, 155 00:04:57,520 --> 00:04:59,320 When the first Spanish settlers came to Venezuela, 156 00:04:59,360 --> 00:05:01,360 they saw this and they thought it reminded them of Venice... 157 00:05:01,400 --> 00:05:02,160 they saw this and they thought it reminded them of Venice... 158 00:05:05,960 --> 00:05:07,800 ..hence the name Venezuela. 159 00:05:13,400 --> 00:05:15,080 Sturdy little village. 160 00:05:16,400 --> 00:05:18,400 I can't see many people around. 161 00:05:18,440 --> 00:05:18,720 I can't see many people around. 162 00:05:18,760 --> 00:05:20,760 I can't see anybody around at the moment. 163 00:05:20,800 --> 00:05:21,040 I can't see anybody around at the moment. 164 00:05:21,080 --> 00:05:22,600 Oh, here we go. 165 00:05:24,080 --> 00:05:26,080 {\an8}Hitting the water to raise the fish. Hola! 166 00:05:26,120 --> 00:05:27,600 {\an8}Hitting the water to raise the fish. Hola! 167 00:05:29,240 --> 00:05:31,240 'But as I get off and walk around, it all seems unusually empty. 168 00:05:31,280 --> 00:05:33,280 'But as I get off and walk around, it all seems unusually empty. 169 00:05:33,320 --> 00:05:35,200 'But as I get off and walk around, it all seems unusually empty. 170 00:05:36,560 --> 00:05:38,240 'Ologa has suffered badly 171 00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:40,280 'due to Venezuela's economic collapse. 172 00:05:40,320 --> 00:05:40,800 'due to Venezuela's economic collapse. 173 00:05:42,720 --> 00:05:44,720 'Public services have been devastated, 174 00:05:44,760 --> 00:05:45,240 'Public services have been devastated, 175 00:05:45,280 --> 00:05:47,280 'and our local fixer, Freddy, tells me places like this 176 00:05:47,320 --> 00:05:48,240 'and our local fixer, Freddy, tells me places like this 177 00:05:48,280 --> 00:05:49,880 'have effectively been cut off.' 178 00:05:53,040 --> 00:05:55,040 This is... This is not a thriving village at all, is it? 179 00:05:55,080 --> 00:05:56,120 This is... This is not a thriving village at all, is it? 180 00:05:56,160 --> 00:05:58,160 Yeah. Very poor people around here, I'd say. 181 00:05:58,200 --> 00:05:59,040 Yeah. Very poor people around here, I'd say. 182 00:05:59,080 --> 00:06:00,480 For example, this is a school, 183 00:06:00,520 --> 00:06:02,000 and the school doesn't have a teacher 184 00:06:02,040 --> 00:06:04,080 in the last six years, at least. 185 00:06:04,120 --> 00:06:06,120 Right. Have many of them left? Many of them have left. 186 00:06:06,160 --> 00:06:07,240 Right. Have many of them left? Many of them have left. 187 00:06:07,280 --> 00:06:08,800 Yeah. Yeah. 188 00:06:08,840 --> 00:06:10,840 The thing is, like, they are completely abandoned here 189 00:06:10,880 --> 00:06:11,560 The thing is, like, they are completely abandoned here 190 00:06:11,600 --> 00:06:13,000 in the middle of nowhere. 191 00:06:14,240 --> 00:06:16,240 'Outside the old school building, 192 00:06:16,280 --> 00:06:17,120 'Outside the old school building, 193 00:06:17,160 --> 00:06:19,160 'I meet a woman who has lived here all of her life.' 194 00:06:19,200 --> 00:06:19,520 'I meet a woman who has lived here all of her life.' 195 00:06:33,480 --> 00:06:35,480 You're going to stay, are you? As long as you live? 196 00:06:35,520 --> 00:06:36,880 You're going to stay, are you? As long as you live? 197 00:06:51,760 --> 00:06:53,760 'But Freddy tells me that Ologa is normally busier than this. 198 00:06:53,800 --> 00:06:55,800 'But Freddy tells me that Ologa is normally busier than this. 199 00:06:55,840 --> 00:06:56,120 'But Freddy tells me that Ologa is normally busier than this. 200 00:06:57,600 --> 00:06:59,600 'One of its few sources of income is as a vantage point 201 00:06:59,640 --> 00:07:01,440 'One of its few sources of income is as a vantage point 202 00:07:01,480 --> 00:07:03,480 'to view the spectacular Catatumbo lightning. 203 00:07:03,520 --> 00:07:04,520 'to view the spectacular Catatumbo lightning. 204 00:07:06,480 --> 00:07:08,440 'I'm hoping to see it tonight, 205 00:07:08,480 --> 00:07:10,480 'but something rather serious has happened - 206 00:07:10,520 --> 00:07:11,640 'but something rather serious has happened - 207 00:07:11,680 --> 00:07:13,200 'Ologa has been invaded.' 208 00:07:15,000 --> 00:07:17,000 Well, the idea was that this rather tranquil place 209 00:07:17,040 --> 00:07:18,160 Well, the idea was that this rather tranquil place 210 00:07:18,200 --> 00:07:20,200 was going to be our home for the night, 211 00:07:20,240 --> 00:07:21,200 was going to be our home for the night, 212 00:07:21,240 --> 00:07:23,160 and throughout the night 213 00:07:23,200 --> 00:07:25,200 waiting for the Catatumbo effect to come across the water. 214 00:07:25,240 --> 00:07:26,720 waiting for the Catatumbo effect to come across the water. 215 00:07:26,760 --> 00:07:28,440 It will all be very dramatic. 216 00:07:28,480 --> 00:07:30,480 But unfortunately, rather amazingly, we can't stay here, 217 00:07:30,520 --> 00:07:32,520 But unfortunately, rather amazingly, we can't stay here, 218 00:07:32,560 --> 00:07:33,240 But unfortunately, rather amazingly, we can't stay here, 219 00:07:33,280 --> 00:07:35,280 and we can't stay here because there is very likely 220 00:07:35,320 --> 00:07:37,040 and we can't stay here because there is very likely 221 00:07:37,080 --> 00:07:39,080 to be an infestation of moths. 222 00:07:39,120 --> 00:07:39,560 to be an infestation of moths. 223 00:07:40,920 --> 00:07:42,920 'Last night, a huge swarm was drawn to the lights of Ologa, 224 00:07:42,960 --> 00:07:44,960 'Last night, a huge swarm was drawn to the lights of Ologa, 225 00:07:45,000 --> 00:07:45,360 'Last night, a huge swarm was drawn to the lights of Ologa, 226 00:07:45,400 --> 00:07:47,400 'and many of the villagers fled to the mainland.' 227 00:07:47,440 --> 00:07:47,840 'and many of the villagers fled to the mainland.' 228 00:07:49,800 --> 00:07:51,800 The problem with this moth is that it's mating time, 229 00:07:51,840 --> 00:07:52,840 The problem with this moth is that it's mating time, 230 00:07:52,880 --> 00:07:54,880 so the females, when they fly, they'll have this powder 231 00:07:54,920 --> 00:07:56,920 so the females, when they fly, they'll have this powder 232 00:07:56,960 --> 00:07:57,240 so the females, when they fly, they'll have this powder 233 00:07:57,280 --> 00:07:59,280 that flies all over the place, and it's very itchy for humans. 234 00:07:59,320 --> 00:08:00,960 that flies all over the place, and it's very itchy for humans. 235 00:08:01,000 --> 00:08:03,000 Yeah.So you can get, like, a very strong irritations 236 00:08:03,040 --> 00:08:05,040 Yeah.So you can get, like, a very strong irritations 237 00:08:05,080 --> 00:08:05,720 Yeah.So you can get, like, a very strong irritations 238 00:08:05,760 --> 00:08:07,760 on the skin for humans, also for the eyes. 239 00:08:07,800 --> 00:08:08,920 on the skin for humans, also for the eyes. 240 00:08:08,960 --> 00:08:10,760 Can you take it in? Can you inhale it? 241 00:08:10,800 --> 00:08:12,800 Yes, that's the problem, actually, getting through your eyes, 242 00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:13,280 Yes, that's the problem, actually, getting through your eyes, 243 00:08:13,320 --> 00:08:15,320 or if you breathe in the moisture, 244 00:08:15,360 --> 00:08:15,840 or if you breathe in the moisture, 245 00:08:15,880 --> 00:08:17,880 you can get also an irritation inside your lungs 246 00:08:17,920 --> 00:08:18,160 you can get also an irritation inside your lungs 247 00:08:18,200 --> 00:08:19,320 and things like that. 248 00:08:19,360 --> 00:08:21,320 What an extraordinary and frightening thought. 249 00:08:21,360 --> 00:08:23,360 'The powder that these insects produce is so toxic 250 00:08:23,400 --> 00:08:25,240 'The powder that these insects produce is so toxic 251 00:08:25,280 --> 00:08:27,280 'that people who are exposed to it can end up in hospital.' 252 00:08:27,320 --> 00:08:28,360 'that people who are exposed to it can end up in hospital.' 253 00:08:28,400 --> 00:08:30,200 I think our plans have to change. 254 00:08:30,240 --> 00:08:32,240 We have to move in far away from here 255 00:08:32,280 --> 00:08:32,520 We have to move in far away from here 256 00:08:32,560 --> 00:08:34,560 and back to where we started. 257 00:08:34,600 --> 00:08:35,480 and back to where we started. 258 00:08:35,520 --> 00:08:37,520 Invasion of the killer moths. 259 00:08:37,560 --> 00:08:37,760 Invasion of the killer moths. 260 00:08:37,800 --> 00:08:39,800 Everything back on, please. 261 00:08:39,840 --> 00:08:40,720 Everything back on, please. 262 00:08:40,760 --> 00:08:42,720 'Concerned for everyone's safety...' 263 00:08:42,760 --> 00:08:44,760 Can you get my bag? It's on that chair there, please? 264 00:08:44,800 --> 00:08:45,560 Can you get my bag? It's on that chair there, please? 265 00:08:45,600 --> 00:08:47,080 '..we get back onto the boats...' 266 00:08:49,840 --> 00:08:51,560 Yeah, I'm trying to go, I'm trying to go. 267 00:08:51,600 --> 00:08:53,360 '..and make a hasty retreat.' 268 00:08:59,440 --> 00:09:01,440 Now we're racing back to an alternative viewing point 269 00:09:01,480 --> 00:09:03,480 Now we're racing back to an alternative viewing point 270 00:09:03,520 --> 00:09:04,080 Now we're racing back to an alternative viewing point 271 00:09:04,120 --> 00:09:06,120 for the possible storm scenario tonight, 272 00:09:06,160 --> 00:09:07,400 for the possible storm scenario tonight, 273 00:09:07,440 --> 00:09:09,440 and they want to get there before dark, obviously. 274 00:09:09,480 --> 00:09:10,160 and they want to get there before dark, obviously. 275 00:09:10,200 --> 00:09:12,200 'Because of the moths, we're now going to spend the night 276 00:09:12,240 --> 00:09:13,440 'Because of the moths, we're now going to spend the night 277 00:09:13,480 --> 00:09:15,480 'on a viewing platform that is much closer to land, 278 00:09:15,520 --> 00:09:17,200 'on a viewing platform that is much closer to land, 279 00:09:17,240 --> 00:09:19,240 'but where the lightning is not as powerful.' 280 00:09:19,280 --> 00:09:19,800 'but where the lightning is not as powerful.' 281 00:09:21,280 --> 00:09:23,280 A sort of temporary prison. 282 00:09:23,320 --> 00:09:23,520 A sort of temporary prison. 283 00:09:23,560 --> 00:09:25,560 'And it's not exactly five star.' 284 00:09:25,600 --> 00:09:25,960 'And it's not exactly five star.' 285 00:09:26,000 --> 00:09:28,000 It lacks a few basics. 286 00:09:28,040 --> 00:09:29,200 It lacks a few basics. 287 00:09:29,240 --> 00:09:30,640 Like, anything, really. 288 00:09:31,800 --> 00:09:33,800 Though I'm sure it'll be... fine. 289 00:09:33,840 --> 00:09:34,800 Though I'm sure it'll be... fine. 290 00:09:34,840 --> 00:09:36,360 But still... 291 00:09:38,040 --> 00:09:40,040 We like the rough concrete pile in the middle of Lake Maracaibo. 292 00:09:40,080 --> 00:09:42,080 We like the rough concrete pile in the middle of Lake Maracaibo. 293 00:09:42,120 --> 00:09:43,240 We like the rough concrete pile in the middle of Lake Maracaibo. 294 00:09:50,680 --> 00:09:52,680 'As night falls, we put up hammocks, and some of the crab caught earlier 295 00:09:52,720 --> 00:09:54,720 'As night falls, we put up hammocks, and some of the crab caught earlier 296 00:09:54,760 --> 00:09:55,240 'As night falls, we put up hammocks, and some of the crab caught earlier 297 00:09:55,280 --> 00:09:57,280 'is cooked for us by the women from the village.' 298 00:09:57,320 --> 00:09:57,720 'is cooked for us by the women from the village.' 299 00:10:03,080 --> 00:10:05,080 So, sleeping tonight is hammock. 300 00:10:05,120 --> 00:10:05,360 So, sleeping tonight is hammock. 301 00:10:05,400 --> 00:10:07,400 I think I can remember the principle. 302 00:10:07,440 --> 00:10:07,720 I think I can remember the principle. 303 00:10:07,760 --> 00:10:09,760 You have to open it out, you have to go in sideways like that, 304 00:10:09,800 --> 00:10:11,520 You have to open it out, you have to go in sideways like that, 305 00:10:11,560 --> 00:10:13,560 and then swing your legs up like that, 306 00:10:13,600 --> 00:10:14,640 and then swing your legs up like that, 307 00:10:14,680 --> 00:10:16,680 and go with the flow. 308 00:10:16,720 --> 00:10:16,920 and go with the flow. 309 00:10:16,960 --> 00:10:18,960 Whoopsie daisy! There we go. 310 00:10:19,000 --> 00:10:19,160 Whoopsie daisy! There we go. 311 00:10:21,160 --> 00:10:23,160 Waggle your bum around till you're comfortable. 312 00:10:23,200 --> 00:10:23,880 Waggle your bum around till you're comfortable. 313 00:10:24,880 --> 00:10:26,040 And I think that's... 314 00:10:26,080 --> 00:10:28,080 I think this is the most comfortable form of sleeping actually. 315 00:10:28,120 --> 00:10:29,440 I think this is the most comfortable form of sleeping actually. 316 00:10:29,480 --> 00:10:31,480 Ah! It's so wonderful after a day like today... 317 00:10:31,520 --> 00:10:32,640 Ah! It's so wonderful after a day like today... 318 00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:35,520 ..because you're rocking slightly. 319 00:10:35,560 --> 00:10:37,160 Well, I'm rocking rather a lot, actually. 320 00:10:43,560 --> 00:10:45,560 'A crate of cold beer arrives from the mainland. 321 00:10:45,600 --> 00:10:46,880 'A crate of cold beer arrives from the mainland. 322 00:10:49,200 --> 00:10:51,200 'And before long, the crew and I all feel quite at home.' 323 00:10:51,240 --> 00:10:52,840 'And before long, the crew and I all feel quite at home.' 324 00:10:54,120 --> 00:10:56,120 Go on, have one. How do you eat these things? 325 00:10:56,160 --> 00:10:56,560 Go on, have one. How do you eat these things? 326 00:10:56,600 --> 00:10:58,600 You know how to do this sort of thing, don't you? 327 00:10:58,640 --> 00:10:58,840 You know how to do this sort of thing, don't you? 328 00:11:00,240 --> 00:11:02,240 I'll take this chap here. 329 00:11:02,280 --> 00:11:03,240 I'll take this chap here. 330 00:11:03,280 --> 00:11:05,160 There you are. 331 00:11:05,200 --> 00:11:07,200 I've seen you die, poor thing, now I'm going to eat you. 332 00:11:07,240 --> 00:11:08,920 I've seen you die, poor thing, now I'm going to eat you. 333 00:11:10,400 --> 00:11:12,400 I think you just sort of suck the good meat out. 334 00:11:12,440 --> 00:11:14,040 I think you just sort of suck the good meat out. 335 00:11:16,720 --> 00:11:17,840 Mmm. 336 00:11:20,840 --> 00:11:22,320 Oh, don't eat the shell. 337 00:11:22,360 --> 00:11:24,360 Freddy, you deserve one. Thank you. 338 00:11:24,400 --> 00:11:25,880 Freddy, you deserve one. Thank you. 339 00:11:29,680 --> 00:11:31,680 Alex says we're obsessed with our cheese. 340 00:11:31,720 --> 00:11:31,960 Alex says we're obsessed with our cheese. 341 00:11:32,000 --> 00:11:33,200 Venezuelans? You are. 342 00:11:33,240 --> 00:11:35,240 Then Alex comes along, he's like, "Swiss cheese is better!" 343 00:11:35,280 --> 00:11:36,120 Then Alex comes along, he's like, "Swiss cheese is better!" 344 00:11:36,160 --> 00:11:38,160 ALL:Ooh! Go on! 345 00:11:38,200 --> 00:11:38,400 ALL:Ooh! Go on! 346 00:11:40,400 --> 00:11:42,400 This is one of the best meals I've had in Venezuela. 347 00:11:42,440 --> 00:11:43,440 This is one of the best meals I've had in Venezuela. 348 00:11:43,480 --> 00:11:45,480 'After dinner, we climb into our hammocks 349 00:11:45,520 --> 00:11:46,120 'After dinner, we climb into our hammocks 350 00:11:46,160 --> 00:11:47,320 'and hope for lightning. 351 00:11:48,480 --> 00:11:50,480 'It's low season, so I've been told not to expect the full display. 352 00:11:50,520 --> 00:11:52,520 'It's low season, so I've been told not to expect the full display. 353 00:11:52,560 --> 00:11:54,160 'It's low season, so I've been told not to expect the full display. 354 00:11:54,200 --> 00:11:56,200 'But when I wake up in the middle of the night...' 355 00:11:56,240 --> 00:11:57,040 'But when I wake up in the middle of the night...' 356 00:12:17,520 --> 00:12:19,520 So, I was in the hammock for quite a long time, 357 00:12:19,560 --> 00:12:19,880 So, I was in the hammock for quite a long time, 358 00:12:19,920 --> 00:12:21,920 perfectly comfortably, really, but not sleeping particularly. 359 00:12:21,960 --> 00:12:23,680 perfectly comfortably, really, but not sleeping particularly. 360 00:12:23,720 --> 00:12:25,160 At one point, I got up... 361 00:12:26,320 --> 00:12:28,320 ..had a look around across the lake, 362 00:12:28,360 --> 00:12:29,200 ..had a look around across the lake, 363 00:12:29,240 --> 00:12:31,240 and I did see over on the horizon, 364 00:12:31,280 --> 00:12:33,280 and I did see over on the horizon, 365 00:12:33,320 --> 00:12:34,000 and I did see over on the horizon, 366 00:12:34,040 --> 00:12:36,040 distinct flashes, and I got very excited. 367 00:12:36,080 --> 00:12:37,960 distinct flashes, and I got very excited. 368 00:12:38,000 --> 00:12:40,000 There wasn't a lot more, but there was enough 369 00:12:40,040 --> 00:12:40,840 There wasn't a lot more, but there was enough 370 00:12:40,880 --> 00:12:42,880 to know that we'd come here for the right reasons. 371 00:12:42,920 --> 00:12:43,560 to know that we'd come here for the right reasons. 372 00:12:45,400 --> 00:12:47,400 And, you know, well, it's been a great stay. 373 00:12:47,440 --> 00:12:49,440 And, you know, well, it's been a great stay. 374 00:12:49,480 --> 00:12:49,920 And, you know, well, it's been a great stay. 375 00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:54,000 'I've enjoyed my time on Lake Maracaibo, 376 00:12:54,040 --> 00:12:55,000 'I've enjoyed my time on Lake Maracaibo, 377 00:12:55,040 --> 00:12:57,040 'and I do hope that someone will see the potential in Ologa 378 00:12:57,080 --> 00:12:59,040 'and I do hope that someone will see the potential in Ologa 379 00:12:59,080 --> 00:13:01,080 'as the best place for people to experience 380 00:13:01,120 --> 00:13:02,160 'as the best place for people to experience 381 00:13:02,200 --> 00:13:04,200 'the most impressive lightning in the world. 382 00:13:04,240 --> 00:13:04,440 'the most impressive lightning in the world. 383 00:13:09,320 --> 00:13:11,320 'Back at Puerto Concha, we pack up the cars 384 00:13:11,360 --> 00:13:11,920 'Back at Puerto Concha, we pack up the cars 385 00:13:11,960 --> 00:13:13,960 'for the next leg of our road trip. 386 00:13:14,000 --> 00:13:14,440 'for the next leg of our road trip. 387 00:13:14,480 --> 00:13:16,480 'I'm heading somewhere that was once the richest place in Venezuela 388 00:13:16,520 --> 00:13:18,320 'I'm heading somewhere that was once the richest place in Venezuela 389 00:13:18,360 --> 00:13:20,360 'but has fallen on hard times.' 390 00:13:20,400 --> 00:13:20,800 'but has fallen on hard times.' 391 00:13:20,840 --> 00:13:22,840 After our night on the water, 392 00:13:22,880 --> 00:13:24,880 we've now got a long journey ahead of us, 393 00:13:24,920 --> 00:13:25,160 we've now got a long journey ahead of us, 394 00:13:25,200 --> 00:13:27,200 about eight hours to Maracaibo. 395 00:13:27,240 --> 00:13:28,440 about eight hours to Maracaibo. 396 00:13:30,760 --> 00:13:32,760 {\an8}'We're driving 250 miles around the eastern side of the lake 397 00:13:32,800 --> 00:13:34,800 {\an8}'We're driving 250 miles around the eastern side of the lake 398 00:13:34,840 --> 00:13:35,640 {\an8}'We're driving 250 miles around the eastern side of the lake 399 00:13:35,680 --> 00:13:37,680 {\an8}'to the city of Maracaibo. 400 00:13:37,720 --> 00:13:37,880 {\an8}'to the city of Maracaibo. 401 00:13:41,360 --> 00:13:43,360 'Maracaibo is the capital of Zulia State, 402 00:13:43,400 --> 00:13:44,360 'Maracaibo is the capital of Zulia State, 403 00:13:44,400 --> 00:13:46,400 'the area that is in the Foreign Office no-go zone.' 404 00:13:46,440 --> 00:13:48,440 'the area that is in the Foreign Office no-go zone.' 405 00:13:48,480 --> 00:13:48,680 'the area that is in the Foreign Office no-go zone.' 406 00:13:56,600 --> 00:13:58,600 'And there is a lot of security around.' 407 00:13:58,640 --> 00:13:59,000 'And there is a lot of security around.' 408 00:13:59,040 --> 00:14:01,040 I reckon that's about the eighth or ninth checkpoint 409 00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:03,080 I reckon that's about the eighth or ninth checkpoint 410 00:14:03,120 --> 00:14:03,360 I reckon that's about the eighth or ninth checkpoint 411 00:14:03,400 --> 00:14:04,600 in the last hour. 412 00:14:06,880 --> 00:14:08,880 'The increased security is partly 413 00:14:08,920 --> 00:14:09,840 'The increased security is partly 414 00:14:09,880 --> 00:14:11,880 'because this is the centre of oil production.' 415 00:14:11,920 --> 00:14:12,200 'because this is the centre of oil production.' 416 00:14:14,120 --> 00:14:16,120 We're now in this area where oil was discovered, 417 00:14:16,160 --> 00:14:17,680 We're now in this area where oil was discovered, 418 00:14:17,720 --> 00:14:19,720 and the heartlands, really, of the Venezuelan oil industry. 419 00:14:19,760 --> 00:14:21,240 and the heartlands, really, of the Venezuelan oil industry. 420 00:14:22,800 --> 00:14:24,800 'Oil was first found near Lake Maracaibo in 1914, 421 00:14:24,840 --> 00:14:26,840 'Oil was first found near Lake Maracaibo in 1914, 422 00:14:26,880 --> 00:14:27,120 'Oil was first found near Lake Maracaibo in 1914, 423 00:14:27,160 --> 00:14:28,400 'and it's been the centre 424 00:14:28,440 --> 00:14:30,440 'of Venezuela's oil industry ever since.' 425 00:14:30,480 --> 00:14:31,440 'of Venezuela's oil industry ever since.' 426 00:14:34,160 --> 00:14:36,160 I've noticed that all the service stations here 427 00:14:36,200 --> 00:14:37,280 I've noticed that all the service stations here 428 00:14:37,320 --> 00:14:39,320 are PDVSA, Pedevesa, which is the national oil company. 429 00:14:39,360 --> 00:14:41,360 are PDVSA, Pedevesa, which is the national oil company. 430 00:14:41,400 --> 00:14:43,160 are PDVSA, Pedevesa, which is the national oil company. 431 00:14:43,200 --> 00:14:44,680 Every single one. 432 00:14:46,240 --> 00:14:48,240 'By the 1980s, Venezuela was richer than Spain, 433 00:14:48,280 --> 00:14:50,280 'By the 1980s, Venezuela was richer than Spain, 434 00:14:50,320 --> 00:14:50,720 'By the 1980s, Venezuela was richer than Spain, 435 00:14:50,760 --> 00:14:52,760 'and by the early 2000s, 436 00:14:52,800 --> 00:14:53,040 'and by the early 2000s, 437 00:14:53,080 --> 00:14:55,080 'PDVSA was generating $80 billion a year.' 438 00:14:55,120 --> 00:14:57,120 'PDVSA was generating $80 billion a year.' 439 00:14:57,160 --> 00:14:57,720 'PDVSA was generating $80 billion a year.' 440 00:14:57,760 --> 00:14:59,760 We're just getting on to the Maracaibo Bridge. 441 00:14:59,800 --> 00:15:00,360 We're just getting on to the Maracaibo Bridge. 442 00:15:04,000 --> 00:15:06,000 It's over five miles long, and it was built in 1962 443 00:15:06,040 --> 00:15:08,040 It's over five miles long, and it was built in 1962 444 00:15:08,080 --> 00:15:10,000 It's over five miles long, and it was built in 1962 445 00:15:10,040 --> 00:15:12,040 at a time when the maximum amount of money 446 00:15:12,080 --> 00:15:13,360 at a time when the maximum amount of money 447 00:15:13,400 --> 00:15:15,400 was coming in from oil revenues. 448 00:15:15,440 --> 00:15:16,040 was coming in from oil revenues. 449 00:15:16,080 --> 00:15:18,080 And... really, these are peak times for Venezuela. 450 00:15:18,120 --> 00:15:20,120 And... really, these are peak times for Venezuela. 451 00:15:20,160 --> 00:15:21,000 And... really, these are peak times for Venezuela. 452 00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:22,680 It was richer than ever before. 453 00:15:24,320 --> 00:15:26,040 'But as I arrive... 454 00:15:28,360 --> 00:15:30,360 '..it's obvious that this is a city in decline.' 455 00:15:30,400 --> 00:15:31,280 '..it's obvious that this is a city in decline.' 456 00:15:33,120 --> 00:15:35,120 Maracaibo might once have been the creator of Venezuela's wealth, 457 00:15:35,160 --> 00:15:37,160 Maracaibo might once have been the creator of Venezuela's wealth, 458 00:15:37,200 --> 00:15:37,600 Maracaibo might once have been the creator of Venezuela's wealth, 459 00:15:37,640 --> 00:15:39,640 but as you come off the bridge and into town, 460 00:15:39,680 --> 00:15:41,440 but as you come off the bridge and into town, 461 00:15:41,480 --> 00:15:42,880 it looks like a wasteland. 462 00:15:42,920 --> 00:15:44,960 It looks like it's almost abandoned. 463 00:15:45,000 --> 00:15:47,000 'Arguably more than anywhere else in the country, 464 00:15:47,040 --> 00:15:47,480 'Arguably more than anywhere else in the country, 465 00:15:47,520 --> 00:15:49,520 'Maracaibo has become a symbol of Venezuela's collapse.' 466 00:15:49,560 --> 00:15:51,560 'Maracaibo has become a symbol of Venezuela's collapse.' 467 00:15:51,600 --> 00:15:52,400 'Maracaibo has become a symbol of Venezuela's collapse.' 468 00:16:01,800 --> 00:16:03,640 MAN ON TV: The contrast really hit me 469 00:16:03,680 --> 00:16:05,280 when we drove up to our hotel. 470 00:16:05,320 --> 00:16:07,320 Just about the most modern one I've ever seen. 471 00:16:07,360 --> 00:16:07,680 Just about the most modern one I've ever seen. 472 00:16:07,720 --> 00:16:09,720 It's a great introduction to a job in Venezuela... 473 00:16:09,760 --> 00:16:10,720 It's a great introduction to a job in Venezuela... 474 00:16:10,760 --> 00:16:12,480 MICHAEL PALIN: 'In the mid-20th century, 475 00:16:12,520 --> 00:16:14,520 'Venezuela's rapidly-expanding oil industry 476 00:16:14,560 --> 00:16:15,880 'Venezuela's rapidly-expanding oil industry 477 00:16:15,920 --> 00:16:17,800 'was keen to attract American workers.' 478 00:16:17,840 --> 00:16:19,840 Where is Daddy, Mommy? 479 00:16:19,880 --> 00:16:20,200 Where is Daddy, Mommy? 480 00:16:20,240 --> 00:16:22,240 Daddy's down here in Venezuela. 481 00:16:22,280 --> 00:16:23,560 Daddy's down here in Venezuela. 482 00:16:23,600 --> 00:16:25,600 'These American expats 483 00:16:25,640 --> 00:16:26,000 'These American expats 484 00:16:26,040 --> 00:16:28,040 'quickly became an integral part of Maracaibo, 485 00:16:28,080 --> 00:16:29,160 'quickly became an integral part of Maracaibo, 486 00:16:29,200 --> 00:16:31,200 'and they brought their cars and their culture with them. 487 00:16:31,240 --> 00:16:32,520 'and they brought their cars and their culture with them. 488 00:16:33,840 --> 00:16:35,720 'The cars are still here, 489 00:16:35,760 --> 00:16:37,760 'but as I walk around the streets near my hotel, 490 00:16:37,800 --> 00:16:39,120 'but as I walk around the streets near my hotel, 491 00:16:39,160 --> 00:16:41,160 'it's obvious the good times are over. 492 00:16:41,200 --> 00:16:41,400 'it's obvious the good times are over. 493 00:16:44,720 --> 00:16:46,640 'Shops and restaurants are shuttered, 494 00:16:46,680 --> 00:16:48,680 'and over 500,000 people have left the city 495 00:16:48,720 --> 00:16:50,720 'and over 500,000 people have left the city 496 00:16:50,760 --> 00:16:51,000 'and over 500,000 people have left the city 497 00:16:51,040 --> 00:16:52,880 'in the last few years.' 498 00:16:52,920 --> 00:16:54,880 American companies have been here for a long time, 499 00:16:54,920 --> 00:16:55,960 since the beginning. 500 00:16:56,000 --> 00:16:58,000 They actually put the infrastructure on the lakes. 501 00:16:58,040 --> 00:16:59,440 They actually put the infrastructure on the lakes. 502 00:16:59,480 --> 00:17:01,480 It used to be a super thriving city, 503 00:17:01,520 --> 00:17:02,240 It used to be a super thriving city, 504 00:17:02,280 --> 00:17:04,280 but with the collapse of PDVSA, which is the main oil company here, 505 00:17:04,320 --> 00:17:06,320 but with the collapse of PDVSA, which is the main oil company here, 506 00:17:06,360 --> 00:17:08,280 but with the collapse of PDVSA, which is the main oil company here, 507 00:17:08,320 --> 00:17:10,320 things sort of took a downturn, and the city really took a big hit. 508 00:17:10,360 --> 00:17:12,360 things sort of took a downturn, and the city really took a big hit. 509 00:17:12,400 --> 00:17:12,680 things sort of took a downturn, and the city really took a big hit. 510 00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:14,720 'To understand what happened to Maracaibo, 511 00:17:14,760 --> 00:17:15,360 'To understand what happened to Maracaibo, 512 00:17:15,400 --> 00:17:17,400 'I'm talking to Emi, a Venezuelan member of our crew.' 513 00:17:17,440 --> 00:17:18,880 'I'm talking to Emi, a Venezuelan member of our crew.' 514 00:17:18,920 --> 00:17:20,920 Back in 2003, when the late president Chavez was in power, 515 00:17:20,960 --> 00:17:22,960 Back in 2003, when the late president Chavez was in power, 516 00:17:23,000 --> 00:17:24,360 Back in 2003, when the late president Chavez was in power, 517 00:17:24,400 --> 00:17:26,400 he had made it his mission to redistribute wealth 518 00:17:26,440 --> 00:17:27,920 he had made it his mission to redistribute wealth 519 00:17:27,960 --> 00:17:29,960 and give wealth back to the people. 520 00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:30,320 and give wealth back to the people. 521 00:17:30,360 --> 00:17:32,360 So, at the time, he felt it was the right decision 522 00:17:32,400 --> 00:17:33,920 So, at the time, he felt it was the right decision 523 00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,960 that the company that was making the most revenue into the country, 524 00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:38,000 that the company that was making the most revenue into the country, 525 00:17:38,040 --> 00:17:38,320 that the company that was making the most revenue into the country, 526 00:17:38,360 --> 00:17:40,360 and of course enriching those that were close to the elite, 527 00:17:40,400 --> 00:17:41,960 and of course enriching those that were close to the elite, 528 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:44,000 you could say, should be given back to the people. 529 00:17:44,040 --> 00:17:44,960 you could say, should be given back to the people. 530 00:17:45,000 --> 00:17:47,000 So, he took the company into his hands, and in one day, 531 00:17:47,040 --> 00:17:49,040 So, he took the company into his hands, and in one day, 532 00:17:49,080 --> 00:17:49,640 So, he took the company into his hands, and in one day, 533 00:17:49,680 --> 00:17:51,680 he laid off the 18,000 employees that were working there. 534 00:17:51,720 --> 00:17:53,480 he laid off the 18,000 employees that were working there. 535 00:17:53,520 --> 00:17:55,520 'So, out went decades of experience, and in came the Chavistas.' 536 00:17:55,560 --> 00:17:57,560 'So, out went decades of experience, and in came the Chavistas.' 537 00:17:57,600 --> 00:17:58,840 'So, out went decades of experience, and in came the Chavistas.' 538 00:17:58,880 --> 00:18:00,880 Once these people left, there was no trained staff 539 00:18:00,920 --> 00:18:02,920 Once these people left, there was no trained staff 540 00:18:02,960 --> 00:18:03,760 Once these people left, there was no trained staff 541 00:18:03,800 --> 00:18:05,800 in the special kind of oil that we have in Venezuela. 542 00:18:05,840 --> 00:18:07,400 in the special kind of oil that we have in Venezuela. 543 00:18:07,440 --> 00:18:09,440 So, slowly, these people left. 544 00:18:09,480 --> 00:18:09,960 So, slowly, these people left. 545 00:18:10,000 --> 00:18:12,000 Those who replaced them perhaps didn't have the skills 546 00:18:12,040 --> 00:18:13,840 Those who replaced them perhaps didn't have the skills 547 00:18:13,880 --> 00:18:15,880 to be able to conduct the maintenance needed 548 00:18:15,920 --> 00:18:17,360 to be able to conduct the maintenance needed 549 00:18:17,400 --> 00:18:19,400 and the effort needed to keep the company alive. 550 00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:20,840 and the effort needed to keep the company alive. 551 00:18:22,480 --> 00:18:24,480 'Over the next few years, the oil industry crumbled. 552 00:18:24,520 --> 00:18:26,520 'Over the next few years, the oil industry crumbled. 553 00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:26,840 'Over the next few years, the oil industry crumbled. 554 00:18:26,880 --> 00:18:28,880 'And with the addition of US sanctions and falling oil prices, 555 00:18:28,920 --> 00:18:30,040 'And with the addition of US sanctions and falling oil prices, 556 00:18:30,080 --> 00:18:32,080 'it not only brought down this city, but the entire economy. 557 00:18:32,120 --> 00:18:34,120 'it not only brought down this city, but the entire economy. 558 00:18:34,160 --> 00:18:34,640 'it not only brought down this city, but the entire economy. 559 00:18:34,680 --> 00:18:36,680 'Yet Venezuela still has 560 00:18:36,720 --> 00:18:36,960 'Yet Venezuela still has 561 00:18:37,000 --> 00:18:39,000 '300 billion barrels of oil underground. 562 00:18:39,040 --> 00:18:40,960 '300 billion barrels of oil underground. 563 00:18:41,000 --> 00:18:43,000 'The largest reserves in the world, 564 00:18:43,040 --> 00:18:43,280 'The largest reserves in the world, 565 00:18:43,320 --> 00:18:45,320 'which has the potential to transform the country's future. 566 00:18:45,360 --> 00:18:47,240 'which has the potential to transform the country's future. 567 00:18:49,160 --> 00:18:51,160 'But as I explore more of Maracaibo, 568 00:18:51,200 --> 00:18:51,440 'But as I explore more of Maracaibo, 569 00:18:51,480 --> 00:18:53,480 'and walk towards the historic centre, 570 00:18:53,520 --> 00:18:54,440 'and walk towards the historic centre, 571 00:18:54,480 --> 00:18:56,480 'I realise there's more to this city than oil.' 572 00:18:56,520 --> 00:18:57,400 'I realise there's more to this city than oil.' 573 00:18:58,800 --> 00:19:00,800 And things start to liven up. 574 00:19:00,840 --> 00:19:01,000 And things start to liven up. 575 00:19:03,560 --> 00:19:05,240 LAUGHTER 576 00:19:05,280 --> 00:19:07,280 'Its colourful colonial buildings and bustling streets 577 00:19:07,320 --> 00:19:09,320 'Its colourful colonial buildings and bustling streets 578 00:19:09,360 --> 00:19:09,600 'Its colourful colonial buildings and bustling streets 579 00:19:09,640 --> 00:19:11,360 'are something of a welcome relief - 580 00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:13,400 'a contrast to the city's beleaguered reputation. 581 00:19:13,440 --> 00:19:15,000 'a contrast to the city's beleaguered reputation. 582 00:19:17,640 --> 00:19:19,640 'I take a walk around a local market, 583 00:19:19,680 --> 00:19:19,960 'I take a walk around a local market, 584 00:19:20,000 --> 00:19:22,000 'but after a while, 585 00:19:22,040 --> 00:19:24,040 'it becomes difficult not to notice something. 586 00:19:24,080 --> 00:19:24,760 'it becomes difficult not to notice something. 587 00:19:27,080 --> 00:19:29,080 'Apparently, mannequins in Venezuela are "enhanced" 588 00:19:29,120 --> 00:19:30,840 'Apparently, mannequins in Venezuela are "enhanced" 589 00:19:30,880 --> 00:19:32,880 'so they conform to firmly established stereotypes 590 00:19:32,920 --> 00:19:34,760 'so they conform to firmly established stereotypes 591 00:19:34,800 --> 00:19:36,680 'of female beauty. 592 00:19:38,720 --> 00:19:40,720 'Beauty pageants are still big business here. 593 00:19:40,760 --> 00:19:42,040 'Beauty pageants are still big business here. 594 00:19:46,920 --> 00:19:48,920 'I've come to the Santa Lucia neighbourhood of Maracaibo 595 00:19:48,960 --> 00:19:50,680 'I've come to the Santa Lucia neighbourhood of Maracaibo 596 00:19:50,720 --> 00:19:52,720 'to meet Maria Peinado, 597 00:19:52,760 --> 00:19:53,120 'to meet Maria Peinado, 598 00:19:53,160 --> 00:19:55,160 'who won the local round of Miss Venezuela 599 00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:56,040 'who won the local round of Miss Venezuela 600 00:19:56,080 --> 00:19:58,080 'to become Miss Zulia.' 601 00:19:58,120 --> 00:19:58,280 'to become Miss Zulia.' 602 00:19:59,440 --> 00:20:01,440 This is the old part of Maracaibo? Yes, it's beautiful. 603 00:20:01,480 --> 00:20:03,280 This is the old part of Maracaibo? Yes, it's beautiful. 604 00:20:03,320 --> 00:20:05,320 Yeah, and the colour. The colours, too much colour. 605 00:20:05,360 --> 00:20:07,200 Yeah, and the colour. The colours, too much colour. 606 00:20:07,240 --> 00:20:09,240 In Venezuela, you use a lot of colour. 607 00:20:09,280 --> 00:20:09,680 In Venezuela, you use a lot of colour. 608 00:20:09,720 --> 00:20:11,720 Yes, too much colour. Maracaibo. And your dress. 609 00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:12,040 Yes, too much colour. Maracaibo. And your dress. 610 00:20:12,080 --> 00:20:13,360 Ooh! I mean, wow! 611 00:20:13,400 --> 00:20:15,360 You like my dress? That is colour! 612 00:20:15,400 --> 00:20:17,400 That is colour in motion. Yeah! 613 00:20:17,440 --> 00:20:18,680 That is colour in motion. Yeah! 614 00:20:18,720 --> 00:20:20,720 'Maria is from the indigenous Wayuu people, 615 00:20:20,760 --> 00:20:21,440 'Maria is from the indigenous Wayuu people, 616 00:20:21,480 --> 00:20:23,480 'who are from this part of Venezuela.' 617 00:20:23,520 --> 00:20:24,960 'who are from this part of Venezuela.' 618 00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:27,000 This dress for the woman, indigenous woman, Wayuu woman, 619 00:20:27,040 --> 00:20:28,840 This dress for the woman, indigenous woman, Wayuu woman, 620 00:20:28,880 --> 00:20:30,680 is very special. 621 00:20:30,720 --> 00:20:32,720 'Miss Zulia suggests we have a beer at Bar A Que Luis...' 622 00:20:32,760 --> 00:20:34,760 'Miss Zulia suggests we have a beer at Bar A Que Luis...' 623 00:20:34,800 --> 00:20:35,120 'Miss Zulia suggests we have a beer at Bar A Que Luis...' 624 00:20:35,160 --> 00:20:36,760 MARIA SPEAKS SPANISH 625 00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:38,800 '..a famous local watering hole.' 626 00:20:38,840 --> 00:20:39,080 '..a famous local watering hole.' 627 00:20:39,120 --> 00:20:41,120 Is this one of your favourite places to come to? 628 00:20:41,160 --> 00:20:42,120 Is this one of your favourite places to come to? 629 00:20:42,160 --> 00:20:44,040 Yes, this is my favourite place. 630 00:20:44,080 --> 00:20:46,080 OK, cheers, salud! Cheers to you! Yeah. 631 00:20:46,120 --> 00:20:47,160 OK, cheers, salud! Cheers to you! Yeah. 632 00:20:47,200 --> 00:20:49,200 'Most women who enter Miss Venezuela are of European descent, 633 00:20:49,240 --> 00:20:50,840 'Most women who enter Miss Venezuela are of European descent, 634 00:20:50,880 --> 00:20:52,880 'so Maria was always going to stand out.' 635 00:20:52,920 --> 00:20:54,200 'so Maria was always going to stand out.' 636 00:20:54,240 --> 00:20:56,240 Can I ask you why it is that you wanted to become a beauty queen? 637 00:20:56,280 --> 00:20:58,280 Can I ask you why it is that you wanted to become a beauty queen? 638 00:20:58,320 --> 00:20:58,520 Can I ask you why it is that you wanted to become a beauty queen? 639 00:21:05,680 --> 00:21:07,680 Did you feel at a disadvantage 640 00:21:07,720 --> 00:21:08,920 Did you feel at a disadvantage 641 00:21:08,960 --> 00:21:10,960 being from the indigenous population? 642 00:21:11,000 --> 00:21:11,720 being from the indigenous population? 643 00:21:24,240 --> 00:21:26,240 What did you have to do in order to try and win? 644 00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:27,200 What did you have to do in order to try and win? 645 00:21:27,240 --> 00:21:28,480 Were there special things 646 00:21:28,520 --> 00:21:30,520 you had to sort of say, do, talk about, change? 647 00:21:30,560 --> 00:21:32,560 you had to sort of say, do, talk about, change? 648 00:21:32,600 --> 00:21:33,040 you had to sort of say, do, talk about, change? 649 00:21:47,840 --> 00:21:49,840 And what sort of form did that take? 650 00:21:49,880 --> 00:21:50,680 And what sort of form did that take? 651 00:21:50,720 --> 00:21:52,720 What plastic surgery did you have to have? 652 00:21:52,760 --> 00:21:53,120 What plastic surgery did you have to have? 653 00:21:56,240 --> 00:21:57,840 Yeah. OK, the boobs. 654 00:22:17,160 --> 00:22:19,160 'Having won at state level, Maria went on 655 00:22:19,200 --> 00:22:19,920 'Having won at state level, Maria went on 656 00:22:19,960 --> 00:22:21,960 'to enter the main Miss Venezuela contest in 2024.' 657 00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:24,000 'to enter the main Miss Venezuela contest in 2024.' 658 00:22:24,040 --> 00:22:24,360 'to enter the main Miss Venezuela contest in 2024.' 659 00:22:24,400 --> 00:22:26,400 This is the video. 660 00:22:26,440 --> 00:22:28,440 'But things took a bit of a turn, and she didn't win.' 661 00:22:28,480 --> 00:22:29,160 'But things took a bit of a turn, and she didn't win.' 662 00:22:29,200 --> 00:22:31,200 {\an8}OK. There you go. Very graceful. 663 00:22:31,240 --> 00:22:31,800 {\an8}OK. There you go. Very graceful. 664 00:22:31,840 --> 00:22:33,000 {\an8}Whoa! Whoa! 665 00:22:33,040 --> 00:22:35,040 Wow! Wow, that's a tumble. MARIA LAUGHS 666 00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:35,360 Wow! Wow, that's a tumble. MARIA LAUGHS 667 00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:37,400 It's funny, no? Yeah. It's painful! 668 00:22:37,440 --> 00:22:38,600 It's funny, no? Yeah. It's painful! 669 00:22:38,640 --> 00:22:40,400 Oh, OK. I feel for you. 670 00:22:40,440 --> 00:22:42,440 THEY LAUGH But it was a good fall. 671 00:22:42,480 --> 00:22:42,760 THEY LAUGH But it was a good fall. 672 00:22:42,800 --> 00:22:44,360 OK, again, again. OK, OK. 673 00:22:44,400 --> 00:22:46,400 There you are, so glam. Whoa! MARIA LAUGHS 674 00:22:46,440 --> 00:22:46,640 There you are, so glam. Whoa! MARIA LAUGHS 675 00:22:56,840 --> 00:22:58,840 {\an8}'Maria even managed to turn her tumble into a promotional tie-in 676 00:22:58,880 --> 00:23:00,880 {\an8}'Maria even managed to turn her tumble into a promotional tie-in 677 00:23:00,920 --> 00:23:02,240 {\an8}'Maria even managed to turn her tumble into a promotional tie-in 678 00:23:02,280 --> 00:23:04,280 {\an8}'with a well-known fast-food brand.' 679 00:23:04,320 --> 00:23:04,720 {\an8}'with a well-known fast-food brand.' 680 00:23:14,000 --> 00:23:16,000 Do you think beauty contests are a good thing or a bad thing? 681 00:23:16,040 --> 00:23:17,840 Do you think beauty contests are a good thing or a bad thing? 682 00:23:39,960 --> 00:23:41,960 'Miss Zulia and Maracaibo seem to embody the trait 683 00:23:42,000 --> 00:23:44,000 'Miss Zulia and Maracaibo seem to embody the trait 684 00:23:44,040 --> 00:23:44,320 'Miss Zulia and Maracaibo seem to embody the trait 685 00:23:44,360 --> 00:23:46,360 'that I've seen a lot of in Venezuela - resilience. 686 00:23:46,400 --> 00:23:48,080 'that I've seen a lot of in Venezuela - resilience. 687 00:23:48,120 --> 00:23:50,120 'They've both taken falls, but are still standing tall, 688 00:23:50,160 --> 00:23:51,640 'They've both taken falls, but are still standing tall, 689 00:23:51,680 --> 00:23:53,680 'hopefully with better futures ahead. 690 00:23:53,720 --> 00:23:54,160 'hopefully with better futures ahead. 691 00:23:55,400 --> 00:23:57,280 'But it's time for me to leave, 692 00:23:57,320 --> 00:23:59,320 'as I embark on a journey to a remote part of the country 693 00:23:59,360 --> 00:24:00,640 'as I embark on a journey to a remote part of the country 694 00:24:00,680 --> 00:24:02,680 'to discover one of its other treasures - 695 00:24:02,720 --> 00:24:03,160 'to discover one of its other treasures - 696 00:24:03,200 --> 00:24:05,200 'the world's best chocolate.' 697 00:24:05,240 --> 00:24:05,800 'the world's best chocolate.' 698 00:24:13,720 --> 00:24:15,720 MICHAEL PALIN: 'The next morning, it's a very early start 699 00:24:15,760 --> 00:24:16,640 MICHAEL PALIN: 'The next morning, it's a very early start 700 00:24:16,680 --> 00:24:18,680 'for another very long road trip. 701 00:24:18,720 --> 00:24:20,200 'for another very long road trip. 702 00:24:20,240 --> 00:24:22,240 'I'm on a journey to the Caribbean coast, 703 00:24:22,280 --> 00:24:23,560 'I'm on a journey to the Caribbean coast, 704 00:24:23,600 --> 00:24:25,600 'to discover the source of some of the world's best 705 00:24:25,640 --> 00:24:26,760 'to discover the source of some of the world's best 706 00:24:26,800 --> 00:24:28,320 'and most expensive chocolate, 707 00:24:28,360 --> 00:24:30,360 'but there's somewhere else I want to stop first.' 708 00:24:30,400 --> 00:24:31,600 'but there's somewhere else I want to stop first.' 709 00:24:31,640 --> 00:24:33,640 This is Coro, first sizeable town. Well, city, really. 710 00:24:33,680 --> 00:24:35,680 This is Coro, first sizeable town. Well, city, really. 711 00:24:35,720 --> 00:24:36,720 This is Coro, first sizeable town. Well, city, really. 712 00:24:39,840 --> 00:24:41,840 At the moment, it looks pretty much like anywhere else. 713 00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:42,440 At the moment, it looks pretty much like anywhere else. 714 00:24:44,320 --> 00:24:46,320 'But there's more to this place than first appears.' 715 00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:47,240 'But there's more to this place than first appears.' 716 00:24:47,280 --> 00:24:49,280 Amazingly, what Coro does have is a desert. 717 00:24:49,320 --> 00:24:51,320 Amazingly, what Coro does have is a desert. 718 00:24:51,360 --> 00:24:51,760 Amazingly, what Coro does have is a desert. 719 00:24:54,800 --> 00:24:56,520 This is rather sensational. 720 00:24:57,960 --> 00:24:59,120 Whoa. 721 00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:04,880 Wow. 722 00:25:04,920 --> 00:25:06,920 'The Coro sand dunes are something of a local attraction. 723 00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:08,960 'The Coro sand dunes are something of a local attraction. 724 00:25:09,000 --> 00:25:10,120 'The Coro sand dunes are something of a local attraction. 725 00:25:10,160 --> 00:25:12,160 'And even though it's pretty windy, I can see why. 726 00:25:12,200 --> 00:25:13,760 'And even though it's pretty windy, I can see why. 727 00:25:15,240 --> 00:25:17,240 'Formed over thousands of years by wind and erosion, 728 00:25:17,280 --> 00:25:19,280 'Formed over thousands of years by wind and erosion, 729 00:25:19,320 --> 00:25:21,320 'these sand dunes are another example 730 00:25:21,360 --> 00:25:21,640 'these sand dunes are another example 731 00:25:21,680 --> 00:25:23,680 'of Venezuela's impressively diverse landscape.' 732 00:25:23,720 --> 00:25:24,920 'of Venezuela's impressively diverse landscape.' 733 00:25:26,560 --> 00:25:28,560 This is the Coro sand dunes, 734 00:25:28,600 --> 00:25:28,840 This is the Coro sand dunes, 735 00:25:28,880 --> 00:25:30,880 and they stretch from here right across to the sea. 736 00:25:30,920 --> 00:25:31,240 and they stretch from here right across to the sea. 737 00:25:36,480 --> 00:25:38,480 And it's just like the Sahara. 738 00:25:38,520 --> 00:25:38,760 And it's just like the Sahara. 739 00:25:38,800 --> 00:25:40,800 I mean, the sand is very beautiful, it's very fine, 740 00:25:40,840 --> 00:25:41,280 I mean, the sand is very beautiful, it's very fine, 741 00:25:41,320 --> 00:25:43,320 blown by the wind into various different shapes, 742 00:25:43,360 --> 00:25:44,360 blown by the wind into various different shapes, 743 00:25:44,400 --> 00:25:46,400 and it really is another amazing aspect 744 00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:47,400 and it really is another amazing aspect 745 00:25:47,440 --> 00:25:49,440 of Venezuela and the Venezuelan landscape. 746 00:25:49,480 --> 00:25:51,360 of Venezuela and the Venezuelan landscape. 747 00:25:53,320 --> 00:25:55,320 'It's all rather wondrous. 748 00:25:55,360 --> 00:25:56,000 'It's all rather wondrous. 749 00:25:58,360 --> 00:26:00,360 'Then it's back in the cars. 750 00:26:00,400 --> 00:26:01,400 'Then it's back in the cars. 751 00:26:04,400 --> 00:26:06,400 'My quest for chocolate is taking me to the Caribbean coast. 752 00:26:06,440 --> 00:26:08,160 'My quest for chocolate is taking me to the Caribbean coast. 753 00:26:09,520 --> 00:26:10,840 'But getting there 754 00:26:10,880 --> 00:26:12,880 'involves a long and winding drive over the mountains.' 755 00:26:12,920 --> 00:26:14,400 'involves a long and winding drive over the mountains.' 756 00:26:14,440 --> 00:26:16,440 This road is just one of the most dramatic drives 757 00:26:16,480 --> 00:26:17,760 This road is just one of the most dramatic drives 758 00:26:17,800 --> 00:26:19,800 we've done in the whole journey. 759 00:26:19,840 --> 00:26:20,200 we've done in the whole journey. 760 00:26:20,240 --> 00:26:22,240 The views, growing and growing each time we look down, 761 00:26:22,280 --> 00:26:24,280 The views, growing and growing each time we look down, 762 00:26:24,320 --> 00:26:24,680 The views, growing and growing each time we look down, 763 00:26:24,720 --> 00:26:26,720 the scale and the size of the mountains. 764 00:26:26,760 --> 00:26:27,280 the scale and the size of the mountains. 765 00:26:27,320 --> 00:26:29,320 Hold on to your seats. This is a ride. Oops. 766 00:26:29,360 --> 00:26:30,480 Hold on to your seats. This is a ride. Oops. 767 00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:37,800 'Eventually, we arrive at a fishing village called Choroni.' 768 00:26:37,840 --> 00:26:39,840 'Eventually, we arrive at a fishing village called Choroni.' 769 00:26:39,880 --> 00:26:40,160 'Eventually, we arrive at a fishing village called Choroni.' 770 00:26:40,200 --> 00:26:42,200 I do love colour, different colours. 771 00:26:42,240 --> 00:26:43,520 I do love colour, different colours. 772 00:26:43,560 --> 00:26:45,560 We're driving into a postcard. 773 00:26:45,600 --> 00:26:45,880 We're driving into a postcard. 774 00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:49,960 'And finally, I get my first proper look 775 00:26:50,000 --> 00:26:50,640 'And finally, I get my first proper look 776 00:26:50,680 --> 00:26:52,680 'at Venezuela's Caribbean coast. 777 00:26:52,720 --> 00:26:53,440 'at Venezuela's Caribbean coast. 778 00:27:01,400 --> 00:27:03,400 'Dotted with various fishing villages... 779 00:27:03,440 --> 00:27:04,200 'Dotted with various fishing villages... 780 00:27:06,040 --> 00:27:08,040 '..this stretch has some of the best beaches in the country. 781 00:27:08,080 --> 00:27:09,640 '..this stretch has some of the best beaches in the country. 782 00:27:14,520 --> 00:27:16,520 'Choroni has a laid-back Caribbean vibe 783 00:27:16,560 --> 00:27:17,640 'Choroni has a laid-back Caribbean vibe 784 00:27:17,680 --> 00:27:19,680 'which is very different to the rest of Venezuela. 785 00:27:19,720 --> 00:27:21,240 'which is very different to the rest of Venezuela. 786 00:27:24,760 --> 00:27:26,760 'But like many people here, we're trying to get somewhere else.' 787 00:27:26,800 --> 00:27:28,160 'But like many people here, we're trying to get somewhere else.' 788 00:27:28,200 --> 00:27:30,200 Everybody wants to get to the beach 789 00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:32,240 and then even off the beach to somewhere else, 790 00:27:32,280 --> 00:27:32,520 and then even off the beach to somewhere else, 791 00:27:32,560 --> 00:27:33,880 which is where we're gonna go, 792 00:27:33,920 --> 00:27:35,920 a place called Chuao, which is quieter than this. 793 00:27:35,960 --> 00:27:37,040 a place called Chuao, which is quieter than this. 794 00:27:37,080 --> 00:27:38,600 No roads lead to it. 795 00:27:38,640 --> 00:27:40,640 Erm, and that's where the boats are leaving, 796 00:27:40,680 --> 00:27:42,000 Erm, and that's where the boats are leaving, 797 00:27:42,040 --> 00:27:43,520 through those great breakers. 798 00:27:43,560 --> 00:27:45,560 I don't really fancy those, but we'll see. 799 00:27:45,600 --> 00:27:45,800 I don't really fancy those, but we'll see. 800 00:27:47,600 --> 00:27:49,600 'There seems to be an endless supply of brightly-coloured fishing boats 801 00:27:49,640 --> 00:27:51,640 'There seems to be an endless supply of brightly-coloured fishing boats 802 00:27:51,680 --> 00:27:52,280 'There seems to be an endless supply of brightly-coloured fishing boats 803 00:27:52,320 --> 00:27:54,320 'to take us to roadless Chuao. 804 00:27:54,360 --> 00:27:54,640 'to take us to roadless Chuao. 805 00:27:55,960 --> 00:27:57,960 'But the water looks increasingly choppy.' 806 00:27:58,000 --> 00:27:58,880 'But the water looks increasingly choppy.' 807 00:28:02,800 --> 00:28:04,560 Thank you, guys. Thank you. 808 00:28:04,600 --> 00:28:06,600 Whay. great. 809 00:28:06,640 --> 00:28:06,800 Whay. great. 810 00:28:10,440 --> 00:28:12,440 'As we leave the bay, things get a bit bumpy.' 811 00:28:12,480 --> 00:28:14,440 'As we leave the bay, things get a bit bumpy.' 812 00:28:14,480 --> 00:28:16,480 PASSENGERS:Whoa! Whoa! 813 00:28:16,520 --> 00:28:17,680 PASSENGERS:Whoa! Whoa! 814 00:28:17,720 --> 00:28:19,720 'But the views as we travel along the coast are stunning.' 815 00:28:19,760 --> 00:28:21,760 'But the views as we travel along the coast are stunning.' 816 00:28:21,800 --> 00:28:22,400 'But the views as we travel along the coast are stunning.' 817 00:28:24,800 --> 00:28:26,280 MAN:How are you finding it, Michael? 818 00:28:26,320 --> 00:28:28,040 Wahey! I'll tell you later. 819 00:28:29,280 --> 00:28:31,280 It's OK, I can't see what's coming at me. 820 00:28:31,320 --> 00:28:32,320 It's OK, I can't see what's coming at me. 821 00:28:32,360 --> 00:28:33,720 Whoa! It is... 822 00:28:36,120 --> 00:28:38,120 ..like being on a big roller-coaster. 823 00:28:38,160 --> 00:28:38,360 ..like being on a big roller-coaster. 824 00:28:39,600 --> 00:28:41,600 Lovely colour, the sea is a lovely colour, you know, 825 00:28:41,640 --> 00:28:43,640 Lovely colour, the sea is a lovely colour, you know, 826 00:28:43,680 --> 00:28:44,200 Lovely colour, the sea is a lovely colour, you know, 827 00:28:44,240 --> 00:28:46,240 maybe a little bit sort of playful today, 828 00:28:46,280 --> 00:28:46,960 maybe a little bit sort of playful today, 829 00:28:47,000 --> 00:28:48,360 but it's a good colour. 830 00:28:48,400 --> 00:28:49,560 Whoa! 831 00:28:51,560 --> 00:28:53,560 'After a very rough half hour, we arrive at Chuao.' 832 00:28:53,600 --> 00:28:55,600 'After a very rough half hour, we arrive at Chuao.' 833 00:28:55,640 --> 00:28:56,720 'After a very rough half hour, we arrive at Chuao.' 834 00:28:58,040 --> 00:29:00,040 That was a bit more than a trip round the bay. 835 00:29:00,080 --> 00:29:00,880 That was a bit more than a trip round the bay. 836 00:29:00,920 --> 00:29:02,920 It's like a trip around Cape Horn in a stormy afternoon. 837 00:29:02,960 --> 00:29:04,960 It's like a trip around Cape Horn in a stormy afternoon. 838 00:29:05,000 --> 00:29:05,800 It's like a trip around Cape Horn in a stormy afternoon. 839 00:29:05,840 --> 00:29:07,840 Up and down, up and down. Very heavy whacks. 840 00:29:07,880 --> 00:29:08,360 Up and down, up and down. Very heavy whacks. 841 00:29:08,400 --> 00:29:10,400 But still, it's all... you know, we're here in Chuao. 842 00:29:10,440 --> 00:29:12,440 But still, it's all... you know, we're here in Chuao. 843 00:29:12,480 --> 00:29:13,000 But still, it's all... you know, we're here in Chuao. 844 00:29:13,040 --> 00:29:15,040 And, er, yeah, 845 00:29:15,080 --> 00:29:15,760 And, er, yeah, 846 00:29:15,800 --> 00:29:17,800 it looks rather beguiling, the whole place, very seductive, 847 00:29:17,840 --> 00:29:19,840 it looks rather beguiling, the whole place, very seductive, 848 00:29:19,880 --> 00:29:20,200 it looks rather beguiling, the whole place, very seductive, 849 00:29:20,240 --> 00:29:22,240 not too many people here, little street... 850 00:29:22,280 --> 00:29:22,480 not too many people here, little street... 851 00:29:24,440 --> 00:29:26,440 ..music playing. 852 00:29:26,480 --> 00:29:28,120 And we've survived. 853 00:29:32,000 --> 00:29:34,000 'Chuao is famous among chocolate aficionados 854 00:29:34,040 --> 00:29:35,680 'Chuao is famous among chocolate aficionados 855 00:29:35,720 --> 00:29:37,720 'for growing some of the world's best cacao trees, 856 00:29:37,760 --> 00:29:39,320 'for growing some of the world's best cacao trees, 857 00:29:39,360 --> 00:29:41,360 'which produce cocoa, the key ingredient in chocolate. 858 00:29:41,400 --> 00:29:42,200 'which produce cocoa, the key ingredient in chocolate. 859 00:29:43,560 --> 00:29:45,560 'I'm meeting local cacao expert Idalia Elena.' 860 00:29:45,600 --> 00:29:47,000 'I'm meeting local cacao expert Idalia Elena.' 861 00:29:48,400 --> 00:29:50,400 Welcome. This is one of the best towns around the world, 862 00:29:50,440 --> 00:29:52,440 Welcome. This is one of the best towns around the world, 863 00:29:52,480 --> 00:29:52,760 Welcome. This is one of the best towns around the world, 864 00:29:52,800 --> 00:29:54,800 and you're going to enjoy the best cacao. 865 00:29:54,840 --> 00:29:55,440 and you're going to enjoy the best cacao. 866 00:29:55,480 --> 00:29:57,480 'All chocolate starts its life on a cacao tree, 867 00:29:57,520 --> 00:29:59,520 'All chocolate starts its life on a cacao tree, 868 00:29:59,560 --> 00:29:59,840 'All chocolate starts its life on a cacao tree, 869 00:29:59,880 --> 00:30:01,880 'and 16 tonnes of high-quality criollo beans 870 00:30:01,920 --> 00:30:03,920 'and 16 tonnes of high-quality criollo beans 871 00:30:03,960 --> 00:30:04,680 'and 16 tonnes of high-quality criollo beans 872 00:30:04,720 --> 00:30:06,720 'are produced in Chuao every year.' 873 00:30:06,760 --> 00:30:07,040 'are produced in Chuao every year.' 874 00:30:09,840 --> 00:30:11,840 We are in the plantation of cacao from Chuao, 875 00:30:11,880 --> 00:30:13,440 We are in the plantation of cacao from Chuao, 876 00:30:13,480 --> 00:30:15,480 and I'm going to show you one of the cacao. 877 00:30:15,520 --> 00:30:17,200 and I'm going to show you one of the cacao. 878 00:30:17,240 --> 00:30:19,240 'Cacao is indigenous to South America, 879 00:30:19,280 --> 00:30:20,320 'Cacao is indigenous to South America, 880 00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:22,360 'but here, it's grown among banana and mango trees, 881 00:30:22,400 --> 00:30:24,040 'but here, it's grown among banana and mango trees, 882 00:30:24,080 --> 00:30:26,080 'which help give the cacao its unique taste.' 883 00:30:26,120 --> 00:30:27,360 'which help give the cacao its unique taste.' 884 00:30:27,400 --> 00:30:29,400 SHE SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE 885 00:30:29,440 --> 00:30:31,440 SHE SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE 886 00:30:31,480 --> 00:30:33,040 SHE SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE 887 00:30:39,240 --> 00:30:41,120 That's beautiful. 888 00:30:41,160 --> 00:30:43,160 That's given birth to a cacao. Yellow one. 889 00:30:43,200 --> 00:30:43,480 That's given birth to a cacao. Yellow one. 890 00:30:49,360 --> 00:30:50,560 Why women? 891 00:30:56,920 --> 00:30:58,920 Can I feel it, have a feel of it? 892 00:30:58,960 --> 00:30:59,200 Can I feel it, have a feel of it? 893 00:30:59,240 --> 00:31:01,240 Oh, yeah, it's quite heavy, yeah. 894 00:31:01,280 --> 00:31:01,840 Oh, yeah, it's quite heavy, yeah. 895 00:31:01,880 --> 00:31:03,880 If you want to know if it is ready, you can do it like this... 896 00:31:03,920 --> 00:31:05,920 If you want to know if it is ready, you can do it like this... 897 00:31:05,960 --> 00:31:06,200 If you want to know if it is ready, you can do it like this... 898 00:31:06,240 --> 00:31:07,120 And that means? 899 00:31:07,160 --> 00:31:09,160 And that sounds totally different, that it's OK. 900 00:31:09,200 --> 00:31:10,240 And that sounds totally different, that it's OK. 901 00:31:10,280 --> 00:31:12,280 'The flesh of the cacao contains a seed 902 00:31:12,320 --> 00:31:14,080 'The flesh of the cacao contains a seed 903 00:31:14,120 --> 00:31:16,120 'that will eventually become cocoa powder.' 904 00:31:16,160 --> 00:31:16,960 'that will eventually become cocoa powder.' 905 00:31:17,000 --> 00:31:19,000 Oh, yeah, doesn't look like chocolate at all. 906 00:31:19,040 --> 00:31:20,760 Oh, yeah, doesn't look like chocolate at all. 907 00:31:20,800 --> 00:31:22,320 SHE CHUCKLES I'll have one of these. 908 00:31:26,920 --> 00:31:28,120 Hm. 909 00:31:28,160 --> 00:31:30,160 It can be a little spicy, a little sweet. 910 00:31:30,200 --> 00:31:31,800 It can be a little spicy, a little sweet. 911 00:31:31,840 --> 00:31:33,080 Yeah, it's rather spicy. 912 00:31:33,120 --> 00:31:35,120 It does taste a little bit of chocolate 913 00:31:35,160 --> 00:31:35,680 It does taste a little bit of chocolate 914 00:31:35,720 --> 00:31:37,560 in the background of the taste. 915 00:31:37,600 --> 00:31:39,600 The background, yes. Background. 916 00:31:39,640 --> 00:31:39,920 The background, yes. Background. 917 00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:41,960 'There are several stages before the cacao becomes chocolate, 918 00:31:42,000 --> 00:31:43,800 'There are several stages before the cacao becomes chocolate, 919 00:31:43,840 --> 00:31:45,840 'and Elena takes me to the town square, 920 00:31:45,880 --> 00:31:46,960 'and Elena takes me to the town square, 921 00:31:47,000 --> 00:31:49,000 'where the cacao is fermented beneath banana leaves.' 922 00:31:49,040 --> 00:31:50,520 'where the cacao is fermented beneath banana leaves.' 923 00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:52,240 It's under here? 924 00:31:52,280 --> 00:31:54,280 Yes, try. Take one. Put my hand in. 925 00:31:54,320 --> 00:31:55,080 Yes, try. Take one. Put my hand in. 926 00:31:55,120 --> 00:31:57,120 Leaves, leaves, leaves. Leaves. 927 00:31:57,160 --> 00:31:58,000 Leaves, leaves, leaves. Leaves. 928 00:31:58,040 --> 00:32:00,040 Very hot, but here we are, got one! 929 00:32:00,080 --> 00:32:01,880 Very hot, but here we are, got one! 930 00:32:01,920 --> 00:32:03,920 Yes, good! Good. SHE LAUGHS 931 00:32:03,960 --> 00:32:05,040 Yes, good! Good. SHE LAUGHS 932 00:32:05,080 --> 00:32:07,080 Oh, yes, this one's much bigger, the central part. 933 00:32:07,120 --> 00:32:08,800 Oh, yes, this one's much bigger, the central part. 934 00:32:10,840 --> 00:32:12,840 Mmm. Yum. Mm. 935 00:32:12,880 --> 00:32:13,480 Mmm. Yum. Mm. 936 00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:17,000 That's got lots more taste to it. A bit more confident taste. 937 00:32:17,040 --> 00:32:19,040 That's got lots more taste to it. A bit more confident taste. 938 00:32:19,080 --> 00:32:19,680 That's got lots more taste to it. A bit more confident taste. 939 00:32:21,560 --> 00:32:23,560 'The fermented fruit is then taken to the square every morning 940 00:32:23,600 --> 00:32:25,600 'The fermented fruit is then taken to the square every morning 941 00:32:25,640 --> 00:32:25,920 'The fermented fruit is then taken to the square every morning 942 00:32:25,960 --> 00:32:27,960 'for around two weeks, spread out and left to dry in the sun. 943 00:32:28,000 --> 00:32:30,000 'for around two weeks, spread out and left to dry in the sun. 944 00:32:30,040 --> 00:32:30,760 'for around two weeks, spread out and left to dry in the sun. 945 00:32:35,160 --> 00:32:37,160 'Then the dried cacao beans are sorted into different shapes, 946 00:32:37,200 --> 00:32:39,200 'Then the dried cacao beans are sorted into different shapes, 947 00:32:39,240 --> 00:32:39,720 'Then the dried cacao beans are sorted into different shapes, 948 00:32:39,760 --> 00:32:41,760 'first by machine, then by hand.' 949 00:32:41,800 --> 00:32:43,640 'first by machine, then by hand.' 950 00:32:43,680 --> 00:32:45,680 SINGING 951 00:32:45,720 --> 00:32:46,120 SINGING 952 00:32:46,160 --> 00:32:48,160 'Many of these techniques are the same now 953 00:32:48,200 --> 00:32:49,120 'Many of these techniques are the same now 954 00:32:49,160 --> 00:32:51,160 'as they were when Spanish colonists 955 00:32:51,200 --> 00:32:51,560 'as they were when Spanish colonists 956 00:32:51,600 --> 00:32:53,600 'started plantations like this over 600 years ago, 957 00:32:53,640 --> 00:32:55,640 'started plantations like this over 600 years ago, 958 00:32:55,680 --> 00:32:55,920 'started plantations like this over 600 years ago, 959 00:32:55,960 --> 00:32:57,840 'using slave labour. 960 00:32:59,120 --> 00:33:01,120 'It's thought around 100,000 enslaved Africans 961 00:33:01,160 --> 00:33:03,160 'It's thought around 100,000 enslaved Africans 962 00:33:03,200 --> 00:33:03,480 'It's thought around 100,000 enslaved Africans 963 00:33:03,520 --> 00:33:05,520 'were forced to come to Venezuela, 964 00:33:05,560 --> 00:33:06,040 'were forced to come to Venezuela, 965 00:33:06,080 --> 00:33:08,080 'and Chuao is rooted in its Afro Caribbean heritage.' 966 00:33:08,120 --> 00:33:10,120 'and Chuao is rooted in its Afro Caribbean heritage.' 967 00:33:10,160 --> 00:33:10,440 'and Chuao is rooted in its Afro Caribbean heritage.' 968 00:33:10,480 --> 00:33:12,480 What is it about this place that makes the cacao of such quality? 969 00:33:12,520 --> 00:33:14,520 What is it about this place that makes the cacao of such quality? 970 00:33:14,560 --> 00:33:16,160 What is it about this place that makes the cacao of such quality? 971 00:33:16,200 --> 00:33:17,720 Why is it so good here? 972 00:33:17,760 --> 00:33:19,760 This is our child. Yeah. 973 00:33:19,800 --> 00:33:20,040 This is our child. Yeah. 974 00:33:20,080 --> 00:33:21,960 The taste is totally different 975 00:33:22,000 --> 00:33:24,000 because of the fruits, mangoes, banana, papaya. 976 00:33:24,040 --> 00:33:26,040 because of the fruits, mangoes, banana, papaya. 977 00:33:26,080 --> 00:33:27,360 because of the fruits, mangoes, banana, papaya. 978 00:33:27,400 --> 00:33:29,360 So it all grows around here. 979 00:33:29,400 --> 00:33:30,920 Around the cacao. Yeah? 980 00:33:32,640 --> 00:33:34,640 'Most of the cacao gets exported to Japan and Europe, 981 00:33:34,680 --> 00:33:36,680 'Most of the cacao gets exported to Japan and Europe, 982 00:33:36,720 --> 00:33:37,160 'Most of the cacao gets exported to Japan and Europe, 983 00:33:37,200 --> 00:33:39,200 'where it's turned into some of the most expensive chocolate 984 00:33:39,240 --> 00:33:39,800 'where it's turned into some of the most expensive chocolate 985 00:33:39,840 --> 00:33:40,960 'in the world.' 986 00:33:42,360 --> 00:33:44,360 Michael, look at this. 987 00:33:44,400 --> 00:33:45,800 Michael, look at this. 988 00:33:45,840 --> 00:33:47,840 That's a chocolate bar. Yes, the final process. 989 00:33:47,880 --> 00:33:49,080 That's a chocolate bar. Yes, the final process. 990 00:33:49,120 --> 00:33:51,120 Oh, can't wait. Chocolate from Chuao. Take. 991 00:33:51,160 --> 00:33:52,600 Oh, can't wait. Chocolate from Chuao. Take. 992 00:33:52,640 --> 00:33:54,640 OK. 993 00:33:54,680 --> 00:33:56,720 Right, I'm about to eat 994 00:33:56,760 --> 00:33:58,760 what many say is the best chocolate in the world. 995 00:33:58,800 --> 00:33:59,440 what many say is the best chocolate in the world. 996 00:34:03,360 --> 00:34:04,920 THEY LAUGH 997 00:34:07,200 --> 00:34:09,200 They're right. They're right. 998 00:34:09,240 --> 00:34:09,640 They're right. They're right. 999 00:34:09,680 --> 00:34:11,680 So many tastes and so many sort of, you know, intensities. 1000 00:34:11,720 --> 00:34:13,720 So many tastes and so many sort of, you know, intensities. 1001 00:34:13,760 --> 00:34:14,280 So many tastes and so many sort of, you know, intensities. 1002 00:34:14,320 --> 00:34:16,320 Mm-hm. You know, it's like... 1003 00:34:16,360 --> 00:34:18,360 Very good. That's why we say this is magical. 1004 00:34:18,400 --> 00:34:19,120 Very good. That's why we say this is magical. 1005 00:34:19,160 --> 00:34:20,880 That is magical. Magical. 1006 00:34:27,000 --> 00:34:29,000 'This town feels far removed from Venezuela's repressive regime, 1007 00:34:29,040 --> 00:34:31,040 'This town feels far removed from Venezuela's repressive regime, 1008 00:34:31,080 --> 00:34:31,760 'This town feels far removed from Venezuela's repressive regime, 1009 00:34:31,800 --> 00:34:33,800 'and while I'm sure people here face challenges, 1010 00:34:33,840 --> 00:34:34,640 'and while I'm sure people here face challenges, 1011 00:34:34,680 --> 00:34:36,680 'there's a real sense of positivity. 1012 00:34:36,720 --> 00:34:37,640 'there's a real sense of positivity. 1013 00:34:37,680 --> 00:34:39,680 'And as night falls, Chuao slowly comes to life.' 1014 00:34:39,720 --> 00:34:41,360 'And as night falls, Chuao slowly comes to life.' 1015 00:34:44,400 --> 00:34:46,400 CHILDREN SHOUT 1016 00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:46,960 CHILDREN SHOUT 1017 00:34:49,720 --> 00:34:51,720 'But this is no ordinary Saturday night. 1018 00:34:51,760 --> 00:34:52,000 'But this is no ordinary Saturday night. 1019 00:34:52,040 --> 00:34:54,040 'This is Carnival weekend, 1020 00:34:54,080 --> 00:34:54,600 'This is Carnival weekend, 1021 00:34:54,640 --> 00:34:56,640 'a time of celebration in the Christian calendar 1022 00:34:56,680 --> 00:34:57,400 'a time of celebration in the Christian calendar 1023 00:34:57,440 --> 00:34:59,440 'before Lent begins. 1024 00:34:59,480 --> 00:35:00,080 'before Lent begins. 1025 00:35:00,120 --> 00:35:02,120 'It seems like everyone in Chuao 1026 00:35:02,160 --> 00:35:02,520 'It seems like everyone in Chuao 1027 00:35:02,560 --> 00:35:04,560 'is getting made up for tonight's festivities.' 1028 00:35:04,600 --> 00:35:05,240 'is getting made up for tonight's festivities.' 1029 00:35:09,600 --> 00:35:11,600 This is all rather wonderful, 1030 00:35:11,640 --> 00:35:12,360 This is all rather wonderful, 1031 00:35:12,400 --> 00:35:14,400 the preparations, they're getting last-minute preparations. 1032 00:35:14,440 --> 00:35:16,440 the preparations, they're getting last-minute preparations. 1033 00:35:16,480 --> 00:35:16,720 the preparations, they're getting last-minute preparations. 1034 00:35:16,760 --> 00:35:18,560 Fantastic make-up being done, 1035 00:35:18,600 --> 00:35:20,600 children having their hair done and all that, 1036 00:35:20,640 --> 00:35:20,920 children having their hair done and all that, 1037 00:35:20,960 --> 00:35:22,760 and really serious because, you know, 1038 00:35:22,800 --> 00:35:24,320 they wanna look their best. 1039 00:35:27,840 --> 00:35:29,840 It's just rather nice, in this small town, 1040 00:35:29,880 --> 00:35:30,400 It's just rather nice, in this small town, 1041 00:35:30,440 --> 00:35:32,440 to get all these people together. 1042 00:35:32,480 --> 00:35:32,880 to get all these people together. 1043 00:35:35,000 --> 00:35:37,000 'The town square begins to fill up. 1044 00:35:37,040 --> 00:35:37,240 'The town square begins to fill up. 1045 00:35:38,560 --> 00:35:40,560 'And finally, it's showtime.' 1046 00:35:40,600 --> 00:35:40,880 'And finally, it's showtime.' 1047 00:35:42,600 --> 00:35:44,280 IN SPANISH: 1048 00:35:49,040 --> 00:35:51,040 'First up is that very Venezuelan of celebrations - 1049 00:35:51,080 --> 00:35:53,080 'First up is that very Venezuelan of celebrations - 1050 00:35:53,120 --> 00:35:53,360 'First up is that very Venezuelan of celebrations - 1051 00:35:53,400 --> 00:35:55,400 'a female beauty pageant. 1052 00:35:55,440 --> 00:35:55,760 'a female beauty pageant. 1053 00:35:55,800 --> 00:35:57,800 'Complete with rather stern-looking judges. 1054 00:35:57,840 --> 00:35:59,680 'Complete with rather stern-looking judges. 1055 00:36:05,360 --> 00:36:06,600 'And then...' 1056 00:36:06,640 --> 00:36:08,640 CARNIVAL MUSIC PLAYS 1057 00:36:08,680 --> 00:36:09,720 CARNIVAL MUSIC PLAYS 1058 00:36:24,840 --> 00:36:26,840 'I think Chuao is rather wonderful.' 1059 00:36:26,880 --> 00:36:27,400 'I think Chuao is rather wonderful.' 1060 00:36:33,760 --> 00:36:34,880 WOMAN SHOUTS 1061 00:36:34,920 --> 00:36:36,920 Well, for a village of just 2,000 people, 1062 00:36:36,960 --> 00:36:37,240 Well, for a village of just 2,000 people, 1063 00:36:37,280 --> 00:36:39,280 they've done an enormous job here. 1064 00:36:39,320 --> 00:36:39,520 they've done an enormous job here. 1065 00:36:39,560 --> 00:36:41,040 It's really fantastic. 1066 00:36:41,080 --> 00:36:43,080 Great showbiz, they've put a lot into it, 1067 00:36:43,120 --> 00:36:44,080 Great showbiz, they've put a lot into it, 1068 00:36:44,120 --> 00:36:46,120 and actually, you know, you can see... 1069 00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:47,120 and actually, you know, you can see... 1070 00:36:47,160 --> 00:36:49,040 I think because it's local, 1071 00:36:49,080 --> 00:36:51,080 you can see the sort of joy and satisfaction and pride 1072 00:36:51,120 --> 00:36:53,120 you can see the sort of joy and satisfaction and pride 1073 00:36:53,160 --> 00:36:53,520 you can see the sort of joy and satisfaction and pride 1074 00:36:53,560 --> 00:36:55,320 in all their faces. 1075 00:36:55,360 --> 00:36:57,360 This is not a big commercial event. 1076 00:36:57,400 --> 00:36:58,000 This is not a big commercial event. 1077 00:36:58,040 --> 00:37:00,040 This is a local event, and they do it amazingly well. 1078 00:37:00,080 --> 00:37:01,640 This is a local event, and they do it amazingly well. 1079 00:37:04,680 --> 00:37:06,680 'But tomorrow is my last day in Venezuela, 1080 00:37:06,720 --> 00:37:07,880 'But tomorrow is my last day in Venezuela, 1081 00:37:07,920 --> 00:37:09,920 'and I'm heading back to Caracas. 1082 00:37:09,960 --> 00:37:10,840 'and I'm heading back to Caracas. 1083 00:37:10,880 --> 00:37:12,880 'I've heard President Maduro has announced a Carnival parade 1084 00:37:12,920 --> 00:37:14,560 'I've heard President Maduro has announced a Carnival parade 1085 00:37:14,600 --> 00:37:16,600 'in the capital, and I really don't want to miss that.' 1086 00:37:16,640 --> 00:37:18,360 'in the capital, and I really don't want to miss that.' 1087 00:37:27,360 --> 00:37:29,360 Well, we're now back in Choroni after our day of chocolate 1088 00:37:29,400 --> 00:37:30,840 Well, we're now back in Choroni after our day of chocolate 1089 00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:32,880 and night of celebration in Chuao 1090 00:37:32,920 --> 00:37:34,480 and night of celebration in Chuao 1091 00:37:34,520 --> 00:37:36,520 and beginning to pack up almost for the last time, 1092 00:37:36,560 --> 00:37:37,920 and beginning to pack up almost for the last time, 1093 00:37:37,960 --> 00:37:39,960 because now we head back to Caracas. 1094 00:37:40,000 --> 00:37:42,000 because now we head back to Caracas. 1095 00:37:42,040 --> 00:37:42,800 because now we head back to Caracas. 1096 00:37:42,840 --> 00:37:44,840 And the circuit of our journey is almost complete. 1097 00:37:44,880 --> 00:37:46,480 And the circuit of our journey is almost complete. 1098 00:37:46,520 --> 00:37:48,440 I think probably many of us 1099 00:37:48,480 --> 00:37:50,480 would quite like to stay here for a couple of days. 1100 00:37:50,520 --> 00:37:50,760 would quite like to stay here for a couple of days. 1101 00:37:50,800 --> 00:37:52,600 It's so beautiful by the sea, 1102 00:37:52,640 --> 00:37:54,640 and today, with all this activity here, 1103 00:37:54,680 --> 00:37:56,000 and today, with all this activity here, 1104 00:37:56,040 --> 00:37:58,040 the sea sort of breaking on the shore, 1105 00:37:58,080 --> 00:37:58,880 the sea sort of breaking on the shore, 1106 00:37:58,920 --> 00:38:00,920 big waves and all that, it's something quite special. 1107 00:38:00,960 --> 00:38:02,440 big waves and all that, it's something quite special. 1108 00:38:02,480 --> 00:38:04,440 I shall miss it. 1109 00:38:08,200 --> 00:38:10,200 'After a couple of hours, I find myself back in Caracas, 1110 00:38:10,240 --> 00:38:12,240 'After a couple of hours, I find myself back in Caracas, 1111 00:38:12,280 --> 00:38:12,520 'After a couple of hours, I find myself back in Caracas, 1112 00:38:12,560 --> 00:38:14,560 'the capital city of Venezuela. 1113 00:38:14,600 --> 00:38:14,880 'the capital city of Venezuela. 1114 00:38:16,480 --> 00:38:18,480 'On the other side of the Avila mountain range... 1115 00:38:18,520 --> 00:38:20,040 'On the other side of the Avila mountain range... 1116 00:38:21,480 --> 00:38:23,480 '..is Caracas's beach area, known as La Guaira. 1117 00:38:23,520 --> 00:38:25,000 '..is Caracas's beach area, known as La Guaira. 1118 00:38:26,760 --> 00:38:28,760 'With an endless coastline on the Caribbean Sea, 1119 00:38:28,800 --> 00:38:29,960 'With an endless coastline on the Caribbean Sea, 1120 00:38:30,000 --> 00:38:32,000 'it's where most people from the city head for at the weekend.' 1121 00:38:32,040 --> 00:38:32,880 'it's where most people from the city head for at the weekend.' 1122 00:38:34,440 --> 00:38:36,440 It's been sort of decorated today because it's Carnival weekend. 1123 00:38:36,480 --> 00:38:38,080 It's been sort of decorated today because it's Carnival weekend. 1124 00:38:38,120 --> 00:38:40,120 There are quite a lot of ads for it. 1125 00:38:40,160 --> 00:38:40,400 There are quite a lot of ads for it. 1126 00:38:40,440 --> 00:38:42,440 I've seen sort of Maduro endorsing it. 1127 00:38:42,480 --> 00:38:44,480 I've seen sort of Maduro endorsing it. 1128 00:38:44,520 --> 00:38:44,800 I've seen sort of Maduro endorsing it. 1129 00:38:44,840 --> 00:38:46,840 So I think there's gonna be a few people there. 1130 00:38:46,880 --> 00:38:48,000 So I think there's gonna be a few people there. 1131 00:38:48,040 --> 00:38:50,040 'It's lunchtime when we arrive, 1132 00:38:50,080 --> 00:38:50,400 'It's lunchtime when we arrive, 1133 00:38:50,440 --> 00:38:52,440 'and Emi is keen for me to try a Venezuelan classic.' 1134 00:38:52,480 --> 00:38:54,080 'and Emi is keen for me to try a Venezuelan classic.' 1135 00:38:54,120 --> 00:38:56,120 We're gonna have arepas. Arepas, yeah. 1136 00:38:56,160 --> 00:38:56,680 We're gonna have arepas. Arepas, yeah. 1137 00:38:56,720 --> 00:38:58,720 Which is sort of a signature dish of Venezuela. 1138 00:38:58,760 --> 00:38:59,200 Which is sort of a signature dish of Venezuela. 1139 00:38:59,240 --> 00:39:01,240 Yes, national dish. Yeah. Just Venezuela? 1140 00:39:01,280 --> 00:39:01,920 Yes, national dish. Yeah. Just Venezuela? 1141 00:39:01,960 --> 00:39:03,960 And Columbia, but we don't talk about this. 1142 00:39:04,000 --> 00:39:04,280 And Columbia, but we don't talk about this. 1143 00:39:04,320 --> 00:39:06,320 We don't talk about Columbia, these are far superior. 1144 00:39:06,360 --> 00:39:06,640 We don't talk about Columbia, these are far superior. 1145 00:39:06,680 --> 00:39:08,680 Yes, yes. It's basically cornmeal. Yeah, yeah. 1146 00:39:08,720 --> 00:39:09,440 Yes, yes. It's basically cornmeal. Yeah, yeah. 1147 00:39:09,480 --> 00:39:11,480 And it's baked, cooked, and then you slice it in the middle, 1148 00:39:11,520 --> 00:39:13,000 And it's baked, cooked, and then you slice it in the middle, 1149 00:39:13,040 --> 00:39:15,040 and you stuff it with anything like meat or chicken 1150 00:39:15,080 --> 00:39:15,360 and you stuff it with anything like meat or chicken 1151 00:39:15,400 --> 00:39:16,640 or traditional cheese. 1152 00:39:16,680 --> 00:39:18,680 And it's sort of eaten in the hand. I mean, it's so easy to do it. 1153 00:39:18,720 --> 00:39:20,200 And it's sort of eaten in the hand. I mean, it's so easy to do it. 1154 00:39:20,240 --> 00:39:22,240 You grab it with your hand, and you dive in. 1155 00:39:22,280 --> 00:39:22,560 You grab it with your hand, and you dive in. 1156 00:39:22,600 --> 00:39:24,600 OK. And then I don't know where to begin, really. 1157 00:39:24,640 --> 00:39:25,320 OK. And then I don't know where to begin, really. 1158 00:39:25,360 --> 00:39:27,360 Well, I would suggest you have the shrimp one 1159 00:39:27,400 --> 00:39:27,960 Well, I would suggest you have the shrimp one 1160 00:39:28,000 --> 00:39:30,000 because we are next to the ocean, so... Yeah, OK, OK. 1161 00:39:30,040 --> 00:39:31,720 because we are next to the ocean, so... Yeah, OK, OK. 1162 00:39:31,760 --> 00:39:33,760 'Arepas are about as close to a national dish 1163 00:39:33,800 --> 00:39:35,040 'Arepas are about as close to a national dish 1164 00:39:35,080 --> 00:39:36,920 'as it gets in Venezuela.' 1165 00:39:36,960 --> 00:39:38,240 We can sit right here. 1166 00:39:38,280 --> 00:39:40,280 And do you know this well from your childhood? 1167 00:39:40,320 --> 00:39:41,720 And do you know this well from your childhood? 1168 00:39:41,760 --> 00:39:43,760 Yes, I grew up coming here. How do you eat it gracefully? 1169 00:39:43,800 --> 00:39:45,520 Yes, I grew up coming here. How do you eat it gracefully? 1170 00:39:45,560 --> 00:39:47,560 It will be very messy. Baby steps. 1171 00:39:47,600 --> 00:39:49,040 It will be very messy. Baby steps. 1172 00:39:49,080 --> 00:39:51,080 EMI LAUGHS Mm. 1173 00:39:51,120 --> 00:39:52,320 EMI LAUGHS Mm. 1174 00:39:52,360 --> 00:39:54,360 Most of it went up my nose. 1175 00:39:54,400 --> 00:39:54,640 Most of it went up my nose. 1176 00:39:54,680 --> 00:39:56,680 Mm. Wow. 1177 00:39:56,720 --> 00:39:56,960 Mm. Wow. 1178 00:39:57,000 --> 00:39:59,000 Venezuelans, we claim that we invented it, 1179 00:39:59,040 --> 00:40:00,120 Venezuelans, we claim that we invented it, 1180 00:40:00,160 --> 00:40:02,160 but the Columbians, they claim that they invented it. 1181 00:40:02,200 --> 00:40:02,760 but the Columbians, they claim that they invented it. 1182 00:40:02,800 --> 00:40:04,800 However, where do you think the truth lies? 1183 00:40:04,840 --> 00:40:05,520 However, where do you think the truth lies? 1184 00:40:05,560 --> 00:40:07,560 Serious enmity there. Have you tried Columbian...? 1185 00:40:07,600 --> 00:40:09,200 Serious enmity there. Have you tried Columbian...? 1186 00:40:09,240 --> 00:40:11,240 Yeah, I've tried it. Yeah? Any good? 1187 00:40:11,280 --> 00:40:12,440 Yeah, I've tried it. Yeah? Any good? 1188 00:40:12,480 --> 00:40:14,480 Not as good as our arepas 1189 00:40:14,520 --> 00:40:15,120 Not as good as our arepas 1190 00:40:15,160 --> 00:40:17,160 because they put it on top instead of filling it, 1191 00:40:17,200 --> 00:40:19,200 because they put it on top instead of filling it, 1192 00:40:19,240 --> 00:40:21,240 so you're wasting, you know, a lot of potential there. 1193 00:40:21,280 --> 00:40:22,520 so you're wasting, you know, a lot of potential there. 1194 00:40:22,560 --> 00:40:24,560 Even more difficult to eat if you're in Colombia. 1195 00:40:24,600 --> 00:40:25,200 Even more difficult to eat if you're in Colombia. 1196 00:40:25,240 --> 00:40:27,040 SHE LAUGHS Exactly. 1197 00:40:27,080 --> 00:40:29,080 'Along the sprawling beaches of La Guaira, 1198 00:40:29,120 --> 00:40:30,680 'Along the sprawling beaches of La Guaira, 1199 00:40:30,720 --> 00:40:32,720 'people are enjoying Carnival weekend 1200 00:40:32,760 --> 00:40:33,440 'people are enjoying Carnival weekend 1201 00:40:33,480 --> 00:40:35,360 'and getting in the mood for the parade. 1202 00:40:38,080 --> 00:40:40,080 'It's hot and humid, but Lenny, one of our drivers, 1203 00:40:40,120 --> 00:40:41,960 'It's hot and humid, but Lenny, one of our drivers, 1204 00:40:42,000 --> 00:40:44,000 'has a suggestion for how to cool down.' 1205 00:40:44,040 --> 00:40:44,680 'has a suggestion for how to cool down.' 1206 00:40:44,720 --> 00:40:46,720 We're talking about the cocada. 1207 00:40:46,760 --> 00:40:47,000 We're talking about the cocada. 1208 00:40:47,040 --> 00:40:49,040 Cocada. Cocada.Cocada. 1209 00:40:49,080 --> 00:40:49,360 Cocada. Cocada.Cocada. 1210 00:40:49,400 --> 00:40:51,400 'Cocada is another Venezuelan favourite, 1211 00:40:51,440 --> 00:40:53,040 'Cocada is another Venezuelan favourite, 1212 00:40:53,080 --> 00:40:55,080 'a blend of fresh coconut, ice and water...' 1213 00:40:55,120 --> 00:40:55,680 'a blend of fresh coconut, ice and water...' 1214 00:40:55,720 --> 00:40:57,400 Oh, wow. 1215 00:40:57,440 --> 00:40:59,440 '..along with some sugar and condensed milk.' 1216 00:40:59,480 --> 00:41:00,640 '..along with some sugar and condensed milk.' 1217 00:41:00,680 --> 00:41:02,040 LENNY SPEAKS SPANISH 1218 00:41:02,080 --> 00:41:04,080 What do you think? It's great. Muy bien. 1219 00:41:04,120 --> 00:41:04,760 What do you think? It's great. Muy bien. 1220 00:41:04,800 --> 00:41:06,200 It is very nice, actually. 1221 00:41:06,240 --> 00:41:08,240 It's making me feel a little happier. 1222 00:41:08,280 --> 00:41:09,000 It's making me feel a little happier. 1223 00:41:09,040 --> 00:41:10,320 Thank you. 1224 00:41:10,360 --> 00:41:12,360 'Soon, the crowd moves to the beach-side promenade 1225 00:41:12,400 --> 00:41:13,600 'Soon, the crowd moves to the beach-side promenade 1226 00:41:13,640 --> 00:41:15,520 'to catch the parade. 1227 00:41:16,720 --> 00:41:18,720 'This is a government-sponsored carnival, 1228 00:41:18,760 --> 00:41:19,040 'This is a government-sponsored carnival, 1229 00:41:19,080 --> 00:41:21,080 'so it's fun with a little bit of order.' 1230 00:41:21,120 --> 00:41:22,280 'so it's fun with a little bit of order.' 1231 00:41:22,320 --> 00:41:24,240 SIRENS BLARE 1232 00:41:28,680 --> 00:41:30,680 'The floats start coming, and organised chaos ensues.' 1233 00:41:30,720 --> 00:41:32,640 'The floats start coming, and organised chaos ensues.' 1234 00:41:32,680 --> 00:41:34,680 WOMAN SHOUTS 1235 00:41:34,720 --> 00:41:35,000 WOMAN SHOUTS 1236 00:41:41,360 --> 00:41:43,000 THEY SHOUT 1237 00:41:45,120 --> 00:41:47,120 'Marine life seems to be a big theme, 1238 00:41:47,160 --> 00:41:48,520 'Marine life seems to be a big theme, 1239 00:41:48,560 --> 00:41:50,560 'with dolphins and turtles and, I think... an octopus? 1240 00:41:50,600 --> 00:41:52,600 'with dolphins and turtles and, I think... an octopus? 1241 00:41:52,640 --> 00:41:53,640 'with dolphins and turtles and, I think... an octopus? 1242 00:41:55,240 --> 00:41:57,240 'There's even a float that looks as if it's dedicated 1243 00:41:57,280 --> 00:41:58,120 'There's even a float that looks as if it's dedicated 1244 00:41:58,160 --> 00:41:59,600 'to magic mushrooms. 1245 00:42:02,240 --> 00:42:04,240 'I'm not totally sure what it's all about, 1246 00:42:04,280 --> 00:42:04,520 'I'm not totally sure what it's all about, 1247 00:42:04,560 --> 00:42:06,560 'but it's loud, colourful and fun.' 1248 00:42:06,600 --> 00:42:07,120 'but it's loud, colourful and fun.' 1249 00:42:10,320 --> 00:42:12,320 They throw sweets, and they spray you with stuff, 1250 00:42:12,360 --> 00:42:13,480 They throw sweets, and they spray you with stuff, 1251 00:42:13,520 --> 00:42:15,520 and they're all sort of rather fanciful, colourful creations. 1252 00:42:15,560 --> 00:42:17,560 and they're all sort of rather fanciful, colourful creations. 1253 00:42:17,600 --> 00:42:18,360 and they're all sort of rather fanciful, colourful creations. 1254 00:42:18,400 --> 00:42:20,400 It's kind of a Venezuelan thing, or maybe a Latin American thing, 1255 00:42:20,440 --> 00:42:22,440 It's kind of a Venezuelan thing, or maybe a Latin American thing, 1256 00:42:22,480 --> 00:42:22,800 It's kind of a Venezuelan thing, or maybe a Latin American thing, 1257 00:42:22,840 --> 00:42:24,840 to use a splash of colour and imagination. 1258 00:42:24,880 --> 00:42:25,520 to use a splash of colour and imagination. 1259 00:42:28,360 --> 00:42:30,360 Ha! Ah, these are wonderful. 1260 00:42:30,400 --> 00:42:30,760 Ha! Ah, these are wonderful. 1261 00:42:36,120 --> 00:42:37,360 Spoke too soon. 1262 00:42:38,720 --> 00:42:40,720 MAN:How you doing, Michael? Yeah, doing just fine. 1263 00:42:40,760 --> 00:42:42,120 MAN:How you doing, Michael? Yeah, doing just fine. 1264 00:42:42,160 --> 00:42:43,960 Sweeties, please. 1265 00:42:52,600 --> 00:42:54,600 'A float in the image of President Maduro appears, 1266 00:42:54,640 --> 00:42:56,160 'A float in the image of President Maduro appears, 1267 00:42:56,200 --> 00:42:58,200 'a reminder that Venezuela is still living under his repressive regime. 1268 00:42:58,240 --> 00:43:00,240 'a reminder that Venezuela is still living under his repressive regime. 1269 00:43:00,280 --> 00:43:01,320 'a reminder that Venezuela is still living under his repressive regime. 1270 00:43:01,360 --> 00:43:03,360 'I've seen many sides to this country in the last three weeks. 1271 00:43:03,400 --> 00:43:05,280 'I've seen many sides to this country in the last three weeks. 1272 00:43:05,320 --> 00:43:07,320 'We've been detained by the intelligence services 1273 00:43:07,360 --> 00:43:08,440 'We've been detained by the intelligence services 1274 00:43:08,480 --> 00:43:09,880 'and seen the human impact 1275 00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:11,920 'of the economic and migration crisis. 1276 00:43:11,960 --> 00:43:12,640 'of the economic and migration crisis. 1277 00:43:12,680 --> 00:43:14,680 'But the resilience of the people who remain here is astounding.' 1278 00:43:14,720 --> 00:43:16,720 'But the resilience of the people who remain here is astounding.' 1279 00:43:16,760 --> 00:43:17,000 'But the resilience of the people who remain here is astounding.' 1280 00:43:18,600 --> 00:43:20,560 The Venezuelans are wonderful people. 1281 00:43:20,600 --> 00:43:22,600 They're naturally joyful, celebratory, 1282 00:43:22,640 --> 00:43:23,040 They're naturally joyful, celebratory, 1283 00:43:23,080 --> 00:43:24,640 they've been very welcoming, 1284 00:43:24,680 --> 00:43:26,680 and their country is visually stunning. 1285 00:43:26,720 --> 00:43:27,000 and their country is visually stunning. 1286 00:43:27,040 --> 00:43:29,040 In the last few years, though, they've been in a real mess. 1287 00:43:29,080 --> 00:43:29,760 In the last few years, though, they've been in a real mess. 1288 00:43:29,800 --> 00:43:31,800 Hyperinflation, people leaving the country, 1289 00:43:31,840 --> 00:43:32,720 Hyperinflation, people leaving the country, 1290 00:43:32,760 --> 00:43:34,760 politics are in a bit of a mess, but the people we talk to... 1291 00:43:34,800 --> 00:43:36,600 politics are in a bit of a mess, but the people we talk to... 1292 00:43:36,640 --> 00:43:38,240 CARNIVAL MUSIC BLARES 1293 00:43:38,280 --> 00:43:40,280 ..as our way round the country have a slight feeling of optimism, 1294 00:43:40,320 --> 00:43:42,320 ..as our way round the country have a slight feeling of optimism, 1295 00:43:42,360 --> 00:43:43,160 ..as our way round the country have a slight feeling of optimism, 1296 00:43:43,200 --> 00:43:45,200 and I hope that continues, because, you know, 1297 00:43:45,240 --> 00:43:46,640 and I hope that continues, because, you know, 1298 00:43:46,680 --> 00:43:48,680 Venezuela's too good to be kept a secret. 1299 00:43:48,720 --> 00:43:49,520 Venezuela's too good to be kept a secret. 1300 00:43:49,560 --> 00:43:51,560 It should be shared with everyone. 1301 00:43:51,600 --> 00:43:51,760 It should be shared with everyone. 1302 00:43:53,040 --> 00:43:55,040 'In so many ways, this country has it all. 1303 00:43:55,080 --> 00:43:56,360 'In so many ways, this country has it all. 1304 00:43:56,400 --> 00:43:58,400 'I just hope that its people are allowed the freedom to flourish. 1305 00:43:58,440 --> 00:44:00,440 'I just hope that its people are allowed the freedom to flourish. 1306 00:44:00,480 --> 00:44:01,000 'I just hope that its people are allowed the freedom to flourish. 1307 00:44:01,040 --> 00:44:03,040 'Then I think everyone will want to come to Venezuela.' 1308 00:44:03,080 --> 00:44:04,920 'Then I think everyone will want to come to Venezuela.'