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[♪ operatic music playing]

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[Stanley Tucci] "See Naples and die."

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So said Goethe in the 1700s.

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Many people took him literally.

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Forty thousand of them
are buried right here

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in the catacombs underneath the city.

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But I'm going back above ground,

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where Naples is very much alive.

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I believe that the best way to understand

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what makes a country and its people unique

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is through their food.

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Oh, my Lord.

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-One hundred years.
-One hundred years.

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[Stanley] And this is true
nowhere more than Italy.

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This is one of the coolest dishes

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I've ever seen cooked.

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-"Chikka-chikka-chikka-chikka."
-[laughing]

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-It's a sort of music.
-[both laughing]

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[Stanley] Where even
the shape of your pasta

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and the sauce you serve it with
speaks directly to identity...

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Damn it. I never tasted
anything like that.

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...and differentiates
the character and history

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of each region sharply from the next.

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Oh, my God! That's so good.

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Wow. Wow!

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I'm Stanley Tucci,

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and I'm exploring the complex connections

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between the land,

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the people, and the food they eat

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in order to discover
the essence of each region

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in the country I love, Italy.

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♪♪

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[horns honking]

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I'm in Naples.

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[honking continues]

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The loudest city... in the world.

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♪♪

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For 3,000 years,
Naples seems to have existed

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in a state of constant threat.

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Some say that's why
the city feels so alive.

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It's the capital of Campania,
which is home to six million people,

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half of whom live
in the shadow of Vesuvius.

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Despite its idyllic coastlines
and lush terrain,

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it's a region with a history
of poverty and hardship.

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So how did those two factors

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shape Campania's world-famous cuisine?

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I've actually found
a quiet street in Naples

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which is almost impossible.

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And I've avoided being hit
by cars at least twice today.

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[horns honking]

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Since the days
when Goethe sang its praises,

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Naples has suffered 300 years
of outrageous misfortune.

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Eruptions, invasions and organized crime

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have all left their mark.

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But recently, the city seems
to be turning a new page.

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We are in Sanità which is
an amazing historical place.

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-A very special place.
-A special place, yes.

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And why is that?

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It has an impressive energy,

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and we've always
respected the community

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because it's important to maintain
their energy in the district.

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[Stanley] Chef Ciro Oliva

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runs a pizzeria
in the Sanità neighborhood,

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one of the city's poorest.

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In the early days in Sanità,
let's say around the time I was 11,

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this was a neighborhood
with a high rate of crime.

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Because of the mafia, one or two
people would be murdered every month.

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[Stanley] Yeah.

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And the people from
other districts of Naples

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didn't come to my district.

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We managed to create a network

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of young guys from the district.

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And through art and culture

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we managed, step by step,

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to change what the district
of Rione Sanità used to be.

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[Stanley] Today, parts of the city,
which were once no-go areas,

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have sprung back to life.

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But great food has always been here,

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throughout the city's toughest days.

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Today, Ciro's taking me not for pizza,

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but to a restaurant where we'll
eat another iconic local dish,

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which is deeply tied
to the city's history.

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Mimì alla Ferrovia

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is a Neapolitan institution.

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It's been going strong for 83 years

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under three generations
of the same family.

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-Stanley.
-Hi.

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-Good morning.
-Morning.

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How are you?

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How are you? Nice to see you.

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Nice to see you too.

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It's run today
by Chef Salvatore Giugliano.

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[Salvatore Giugliano]
Come here, I want to show you

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also the pepperoni.

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-Look.
-Oh, beautiful.

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How we do the stuffed grilled pepper,

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we cook on the grill.

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[Stanley] You stuff, you stuff them?

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We stuff everything.

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-[laughs]
-Okay, so--

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[Salvatore] And now
I'm doing the parmigiana.

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Then we fry the eggplant.

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We have the tomato

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that is coming from,
you know, Naples, Campania.

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We have maybe one of the best tomatoes

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-in Italy because...
-In the world.

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...we are, we are, using here
a tomato from Vesuvius.

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And then we do now like a kind of lasagna,

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but only with vegetables and mozzarella,

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parmigiano and basil.

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-This is a very old recipe...
-Yes.

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...that we are in a, in a war

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with Emilia-Romagna and with Sicily.

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-[Stanley] Oh, really?
-[Salvatore] Because, uh...

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there's a kind of battle

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between the regions of Italy
about the parmigiana.

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[Stanley] Though its origins are disputed,

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the first recorded recipe for parmigiana

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can be traced back to the 1700s,

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when Naples was conquered by the Bourbons.

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[Salvatore] Like, steps, stairs.

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[Stanley] In fact,
French influences can be felt

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throughout Neapolitan cuisine.

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Even ragù gets its name
from the French word for stew.

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This is what my family make,
not breaded, like you.

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-I like it without the...
-[Salvatore] Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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-Breadcrumbs.
-I don't like it.

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It's too heavy.

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Oh, I can't wait.

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Alright, I'm gonna go to see Ciro.

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-Okay, Stanley.
-Thanks.

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See you at the table. Buon appetito.

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[Stanley] [laughs] You got it. Thank you.

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[speaking Italian]

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-Stanley.
-Roberto, very nice to meet you.

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[Stanley] Joining us for lunch
is Ciro's friend,

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local news photographer Roberto Salomone.

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[all] Salute.

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[Stanley] He's a witness to how the city
has changed in the last decade.

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[Roberto Salomone] I mean,
Naples in the last 10 years

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-has changed from this to this.
-[Stanley] Yeah.

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Consider that 10 years ago,
um, as a journalist

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I could go in Rione Sanità
escorted by the police.

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There were like, uh,
criminal acts in broad light.

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Naples was used just as a place
where people used to land,

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to go to Capri, to the Amalfi Coast.

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Yeah.

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Instead now it's one
of the most authentic--

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-It's a destination place.
-Absolutely.

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Destination, yes.

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Guys.

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-Legend, Salvatore.
-Hello.

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The eggplant parmigiana.

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Okay. Okay.

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-Shall we cut it?
-Sure.

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Let's serve Stanley first,
come on.

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Serve Stanley.

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That's typical from Naples.

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100% Naples.

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[Stanley] Mm.

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[Stanley speaks indistinctly]

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-Look how beautiful that is.
-Oh, my God!

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It is one of my favorite things
in the world.

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Oh, now it's okay.

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[Salvatore] Can you feel the smell?

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[Stanley] Yeah.

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And the parmigiana needs bread.

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-Always.
-[Stanley] Yes. Always.

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-[Salvatore] Genius.
-[Ciro chuckles]

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[Stanley] Mm. Delicious.

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I used to bring this when I was young,

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to school for my lunch, inside bread.

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Yeah.

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[Stanley] Delicious.

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Oh, my God.

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[Roberto] We love Napoli.

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And if we can translate
this passion into this,

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this parmigiana melanzane,

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but, no, I mean,
it's, uh, one of the reasons

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why people come to Napoli.

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This city is kind of living
a second Renaissance.

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[Stanley]
A dish as layered as Naples itself,

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parmigiana could have only come
from this melting pot of a city.

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[Salvatore] Napoli has
always been contaminated.

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From many, many years, from the Bourbon,

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-from the French domination.
-Right. Spanish.

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I think it is the,
the best part of Napoli.

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[Stanley] When Italians
say "contamination,"

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what they're saying is "influence."

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We take from the con...
contamination from the people,

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from outside,
but then we can do it our way.

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We wanted to export
with parmigiana or pizza,

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to export Napoli everywhere in the world.

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Right. It's incredible.

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-Hi, guys.
-Cheers, guys.

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Long live Naples!

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[Ciro] Enjoy Napoli.

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[Stanley]
In Naples, everyday existence

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is a very fine balance
between life and death.

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As one of my favorite actors,

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the beloved Neapolitan
comic Totò once said,

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"Naples runs on miracles."

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But it's not just the capital of Campania
that's had its trials and tribulations.

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♪♪

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I mean, I wonder what it's like to live,

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at the base of Vesuvius,

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knowing its power
and what it's done before.

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They say that's one of the reasons

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why people don't fix up the city,

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or pick up the trash,

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you're living in the--
next a volcano, so...

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what does it make a difference?

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♪♪

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I'm heading towards Gragnano,
just south of Vesuvius.

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Despite its proximity to the volcano,

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historically this part of Campania
has faced a more immediate threat, hunger.

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But today this town of almost 30,000

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is said to make the best
dried pasta in the world,

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but that claim
didn't come without a fight.

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Here we are on Via Roma.

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This is "pasta street."

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[Stanley] Local chef Peppe Guida
knows a thing or two on the subject.

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His incredible pasta recipes
have earned him a Michelin star.

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This street has become famous

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for its exposure to the sea breeze

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that helps the pasta dry slowly.

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Then the stones
also make a big difference.

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Our pavement is made of
volcanic rock from Vesuvius.

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It absorbs the heat
and then releases it.

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Up till the '60s the streets
were full of pasta, left and right,

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left to dry for 24-36 hours.

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♪♪

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[Stanley] The conditions in Gragnano
produced a product so incredible,

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that in the 1800s the ruling Bourbon king

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had this street enlarged
in order to dry more pasta.

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But when the industrialized north of Italy

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began manufacturing
pasta more efficiently,

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the people of Gragnano
struggled to compete.

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But Pepe believes there are
still a handful of pasta makers

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who have taken this tradition
into the 21st century.

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[birds chirping]

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Pastificio dei Campi is one
of the best pasta makers

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in the world.

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We know pasta was being made
in Gragnano as far back as 1500.

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[Stanley] Manager Margherita Foglia

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explains why the quality
of their product is so good.

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Look how little water
is in the dough.

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-It looks like sand.
-Yes.

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Look, this is the semola.

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This is the water.

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00:12:12,232 --> 00:12:17,779
The important thing is the pressure
that pushes the pasta into the die

252
00:12:17,862 --> 00:12:20,698
so that it comes out in those shapes.

253
00:12:23,326 --> 00:12:24,494
Here you are.

254
00:12:24,577 --> 00:12:26,829
-What are these called?
-These are called Trottole.

255
00:12:27,247 --> 00:12:29,249
-Oh, like a top.
-Yeah.

256
00:12:29,332 --> 00:12:30,959
[both laugh]

257
00:12:33,378 --> 00:12:34,921
How much pasta every day?

258
00:12:35,004 --> 00:12:36,464
Three tons.

259
00:12:36,881 --> 00:12:38,341
It's a small quantity, very small.

260
00:12:38,883 --> 00:12:42,762
Because our drying process
is very specific

261
00:12:42,845 --> 00:12:46,516
but the things that take longer
always turn out better.

262
00:12:46,599 --> 00:12:47,642
[Stanley] Yeah, yeah.

263
00:12:48,685 --> 00:12:51,187
While most manufacturers heat the pasta

264
00:12:51,271 --> 00:12:52,981
in order to dry it in under three hours,

265
00:12:53,815 --> 00:12:58,528
here they have managed to replicate
the slow, natural drying process

266
00:12:58,611 --> 00:13:00,738
of the streets of Gragnano,

267
00:13:00,822 --> 00:13:04,367
by using specially ventilated
drying chambers.

268
00:13:04,951 --> 00:13:08,204
We dry it in these chambers.

269
00:13:08,788 --> 00:13:09,998
-Right, these chambers.
-Are you ready?

270
00:13:10,081 --> 00:13:11,165
Breathe in.

271
00:13:11,249 --> 00:13:13,001
Whoa. Whoa!

272
00:13:13,084 --> 00:13:14,168
Okay.

273
00:13:14,252 --> 00:13:16,170
It's a sauna. A pasta sauna.

274
00:13:16,254 --> 00:13:17,839
A pasta sauna, yes.

275
00:13:17,922 --> 00:13:21,551
Consider that this aroma and this heat...

276
00:13:21,634 --> 00:13:23,094
just comes from the pasta.

277
00:13:23,177 --> 00:13:25,305
There is no added heat.

278
00:13:25,388 --> 00:13:26,389
-[Stanley] Sì.
-Okay?

279
00:13:26,472 --> 00:13:28,850
-Can I see it?
-Take a look.

280
00:13:30,935 --> 00:13:31,936
[Stanley] Oh, yeah.

281
00:13:32,020 --> 00:13:35,023
The pasta rests in here
for 36 hours.

282
00:13:35,106 --> 00:13:39,736
When it's completely full,
we close them in and can't reopen

283
00:13:39,819 --> 00:13:42,238
until they've completely dried.

284
00:13:42,780 --> 00:13:44,532
Well, we have to close it then.

285
00:13:44,615 --> 00:13:47,076
No, otherwise we'll dry up too.

286
00:13:47,160 --> 00:13:48,161
[laughs]

287
00:13:48,244 --> 00:13:49,746
♪♪

288
00:13:49,829 --> 00:13:51,664
[Stanley] Just like 500 years ago,

289
00:13:51,748 --> 00:13:54,000
there are no shortcuts
when it comes to creating

290
00:13:54,083 --> 00:13:56,335
the best pasta in the world.

291
00:14:00,173 --> 00:14:02,592
A stone's throw from the pasta factory,

292
00:14:02,675 --> 00:14:05,845
is one of Peppe's restaurants, Villa Rosa.

293
00:14:06,387 --> 00:14:10,266
It serves up dishes inspired
by his 94-year-old mother,

294
00:14:10,349 --> 00:14:11,726
Nonna Rosa.

295
00:14:12,477 --> 00:14:14,145
♪♪

296
00:14:14,228 --> 00:14:15,229
What are we doing?

297
00:14:15,313 --> 00:14:18,274
Let's turn the stove on.
Start full throttle.

298
00:14:19,067 --> 00:14:22,403
We add some oil.

299
00:14:22,737 --> 00:14:24,280
I'm going to make you some...

300
00:14:24,947 --> 00:14:29,452
"spaghettino alle vongole fujute"
which means runaway clams.

301
00:14:29,535 --> 00:14:30,703
[Stanley] They ran away?

302
00:14:30,787 --> 00:14:35,500
You can only taste their aroma.
The clams are an illusion.

303
00:14:36,042 --> 00:14:37,210
Let's start.

304
00:14:37,293 --> 00:14:39,629
Is this "poor" cuisine?

305
00:14:39,962 --> 00:14:41,672
-Extremely poor.
-Extremely poor.

306
00:14:41,756 --> 00:14:43,257
So then, garlic...

307
00:14:44,050 --> 00:14:45,635
a couple of stalks of parsley,

308
00:14:48,721 --> 00:14:50,723
a whole chili pepper...

309
00:14:50,807 --> 00:14:52,183
and we will leave it to brown.

310
00:14:52,975 --> 00:14:57,688
Here we have the "piennolo,"
some typical hanging cherry tomatoes.

311
00:14:57,772 --> 00:15:00,399
So, the technique
to avoid getting all red...

312
00:15:00,483 --> 00:15:04,070
so it does not look like you were shot
with a tomato gun.

313
00:15:04,153 --> 00:15:07,824
You put the tomatoes in water
and squeeze them.

314
00:15:07,907 --> 00:15:09,826
Oh, my God, it's so easy.

315
00:15:09,909 --> 00:15:11,160
You see? So simple.

316
00:15:11,244 --> 00:15:12,787
Now we add them.

317
00:15:19,293 --> 00:15:20,419
So,

318
00:15:20,503 --> 00:15:22,088
now we add the...

319
00:15:22,755 --> 00:15:23,881
here it is.

320
00:15:24,423 --> 00:15:26,134
This is the secret ingredient.

321
00:15:28,803 --> 00:15:29,846
Stones.

322
00:15:31,347 --> 00:15:33,099
I've never heard of this.

323
00:15:33,182 --> 00:15:33,850
May I?

324
00:15:33,933 --> 00:15:35,143
Smell it. See? This is the sea.

325
00:15:35,226 --> 00:15:36,394
Yeah.

326
00:15:36,519 --> 00:15:38,271
-It's the sea.
-The sea.

327
00:15:38,813 --> 00:15:41,440
That's it. We place them in here.

328
00:15:41,524 --> 00:15:45,194
We choose the ones which are richer...

329
00:15:46,279 --> 00:15:47,321
in algae.

330
00:15:49,615 --> 00:15:50,867
[Stanley] God, they're beautiful.

331
00:15:51,868 --> 00:15:53,911
♪♪

332
00:15:57,415 --> 00:15:59,167
Now it's time to add...

333
00:15:59,834 --> 00:16:00,835
our spaghettino.

334
00:16:01,169 --> 00:16:03,171
It's the thinnest kind in production.

335
00:16:03,254 --> 00:16:04,463
[Stanley] Sì.

336
00:16:04,547 --> 00:16:06,674
Peppe's trick is to cook the spaghetti

337
00:16:06,757 --> 00:16:08,467
directly in the pan,

338
00:16:08,551 --> 00:16:11,137
a method which
infuses it with more flavor.

339
00:16:12,847 --> 00:16:14,807
But try this with a lesser pasta,

340
00:16:14,891 --> 00:16:17,518
and it will turn into mush.

341
00:16:18,519 --> 00:16:23,524
When we were young
and had no money,

342
00:16:23,608 --> 00:16:27,153
we'd come back from the beach starving,

343
00:16:27,236 --> 00:16:30,364
a spaghetti with stones
and a nice glass of beer,

344
00:16:30,448 --> 00:16:32,992
add in a guitar
and you've got a fantastic time.

345
00:16:33,075 --> 00:16:34,076
[laughs]

346
00:16:34,869 --> 00:16:38,414
[Stanley] This is one of
the coolest dishes

347
00:16:38,497 --> 00:16:40,124
I've ever seen cooked.

348
00:16:41,250 --> 00:16:42,752
Isn't it gorgeous?

349
00:16:42,835 --> 00:16:44,003
Let's turn it off.

350
00:16:49,717 --> 00:16:50,885
OK, so,

351
00:16:51,385 --> 00:16:53,137
let's finish it off...

352
00:16:54,305 --> 00:16:55,932
with our pesto.

353
00:16:58,809 --> 00:17:00,228
And it's ready.

354
00:17:00,895 --> 00:17:02,730
♪♪

355
00:17:10,279 --> 00:17:11,280
Wow, wow, wow.

356
00:17:11,364 --> 00:17:12,531
[laughs]

357
00:17:12,615 --> 00:17:13,616
Here it is.

358
00:17:14,158 --> 00:17:16,494
-Wow, wow, wow. Yes.
-[Peppe Guida] Mm-hmm.

359
00:17:16,577 --> 00:17:18,120
Oh, my God.

360
00:17:19,330 --> 00:17:21,582
-Thanks, Chef.
-My pleasure. Thank you.

361
00:17:22,291 --> 00:17:23,334
[Stanley] Ready?

362
00:17:23,918 --> 00:17:26,754
The great thing about this dish
is eating it like this.

363
00:17:26,837 --> 00:17:27,838
I am too...

364
00:17:28,506 --> 00:17:30,007
-Wait.
-I'm too short.

365
00:17:30,091 --> 00:17:33,678
I'll move it closer to you.
There you are.

366
00:17:41,435 --> 00:17:43,145
Doesn't smell bad, right?

367
00:17:43,604 --> 00:17:45,064
The sea.

368
00:17:45,898 --> 00:17:47,066
Maybe even too much sea.

369
00:17:47,149 --> 00:17:48,150
[both laugh]

370
00:17:48,234 --> 00:17:49,652
No, no, no.

371
00:17:50,528 --> 00:17:51,612
That's amazing.

372
00:17:52,655 --> 00:17:55,783
It's like your,
your mouth is going for a swim.

373
00:17:55,866 --> 00:17:57,451
Like you're diving into the sea.

374
00:17:57,535 --> 00:17:58,536
[Stanley] [laughs] Yeah.

375
00:17:59,245 --> 00:18:00,246
Yeah.

376
00:18:01,038 --> 00:18:02,373
Whoa.

377
00:18:03,666 --> 00:18:04,917
[laughs]

378
00:18:05,251 --> 00:18:06,502
That rocks.

379
00:18:07,503 --> 00:18:08,504
Sea rocks.

380
00:18:09,213 --> 00:18:10,548
Spaghetti with sea rocks

381
00:18:11,090 --> 00:18:13,384
captures something of Campania's past,

382
00:18:14,010 --> 00:18:15,970
when hard work and ingenuity

383
00:18:16,053 --> 00:18:19,223
were at times the only tools
to combat hunger.

384
00:18:19,849 --> 00:18:21,475
-Thank you.
-Grazie a te.

385
00:18:22,018 --> 00:18:23,519
[Stanley] But this idyllic coastline

386
00:18:23,603 --> 00:18:26,230
hides many other tales of hardship.

387
00:18:28,399 --> 00:18:31,235
So, I need to buy one of these.

388
00:18:31,819 --> 00:18:33,946
I'll sort you out.

389
00:18:34,488 --> 00:18:36,490
♪♪

390
00:18:43,539 --> 00:18:47,376
So we're coming into Marina di Corricella,

391
00:18:47,460 --> 00:18:49,712
which is this beautiful little, um...

392
00:18:50,880 --> 00:18:53,007
town on Procida

393
00:18:53,090 --> 00:18:54,425
and all the houses are painted

394
00:18:54,508 --> 00:18:58,012
these various shades of pink
and blue and yellow.

395
00:18:58,095 --> 00:19:00,014
And supposedly that was
how the fishermen would tell

396
00:19:00,097 --> 00:19:01,807
it was their house

397
00:19:01,891 --> 00:19:03,309
and they can also tell, like,

398
00:19:03,392 --> 00:19:06,145
which house wasn't theirs,
so they didn't...

399
00:19:06,437 --> 00:19:08,105
Because I guess they kept like mistresses,

400
00:19:08,189 --> 00:19:10,441
and then they wouldn't go to the...

401
00:19:10,524 --> 00:19:13,194
I don't know, the whole thing
doesn't really make any sense, but...

402
00:19:13,903 --> 00:19:17,573
The smallest and least visited
of Campania's three main islands,

403
00:19:17,657 --> 00:19:20,618
Procida, is roughly two miles across

404
00:19:20,701 --> 00:19:22,828
and home to 10,000 people.

405
00:19:24,205 --> 00:19:27,708
Compared to its more famous sisters,
Capri and Ischia,

406
00:19:27,792 --> 00:19:31,087
Procida has somehow managed
to remain under the radar.

407
00:19:32,338 --> 00:19:34,674
Historically, this seafaring community

408
00:19:34,757 --> 00:19:37,301
fended for itself
by trading fish and produce

409
00:19:37,385 --> 00:19:38,386
with the mainland.

410
00:19:39,512 --> 00:19:42,306
I'm meeting up with Chef Bruno Gargiulo

411
00:19:42,390 --> 00:19:45,601
to learn about one of the island's
most unique ingredients.

412
00:19:46,310 --> 00:19:49,105
This is a variety called Procida lemons.

413
00:19:49,188 --> 00:19:51,565
Their white part, the albedo,

414
00:19:51,649 --> 00:19:53,859
is much thicker and sweetish.

415
00:19:53,943 --> 00:19:57,405
-It's different from the other ones,
-It's different--

416
00:19:57,488 --> 00:20:00,157
the white bit is too bitter.

417
00:20:00,241 --> 00:20:03,285
But in these lemons, it's very sweet.

418
00:20:03,369 --> 00:20:04,370
Sì.

419
00:20:04,453 --> 00:20:07,206
Are these in other parts of Italy or not?

420
00:20:07,289 --> 00:20:08,416
-No.
-Only here?

421
00:20:08,499 --> 00:20:09,625
Yes, only here.

422
00:20:09,709 --> 00:20:11,252
♪♪

423
00:20:11,335 --> 00:20:15,548
[Stanley] Known locally as bread lemons
due to their rough, dough-like skin,

424
00:20:15,631 --> 00:20:18,634
these citruses
were crossbred with citrons,

425
00:20:18,718 --> 00:20:21,512
an ancient juiceless
ancestor of the lemon.

426
00:20:23,848 --> 00:20:26,267
And despite being a delicacy
on this island,

427
00:20:26,350 --> 00:20:28,519
they were rebuffed on the mainland.

428
00:20:29,854 --> 00:20:34,066
Once upon a time, these lemons
had a low market value

429
00:20:34,150 --> 00:20:38,070
because they had
little aesthetic defects.

430
00:20:38,154 --> 00:20:42,408
My first job, when I was 13,
was collecting lemons and

431
00:20:42,825 --> 00:20:47,413
then going to sell them in
the fruit markets in Naples or Pozzuoli.

432
00:20:47,496 --> 00:20:50,499
And our lemons didn't get bought at all.

433
00:20:51,167 --> 00:20:54,754
Did you study to be a chef?

434
00:20:54,837 --> 00:20:59,842
My high school was a hospitality school
on Ischia island.

435
00:20:59,925 --> 00:21:01,677
I worked and studied at the same time.

436
00:21:01,761 --> 00:21:06,182
I got the ship every morning from
Procida at 7:30 to go to Ischia

437
00:21:06,265 --> 00:21:09,769
to attend school. Then in the afternoon
I'd come back for work.

438
00:21:09,852 --> 00:21:10,853
No.

439
00:21:10,936 --> 00:21:12,605
-Yes.
-Yes?

440
00:21:12,688 --> 00:21:17,193
I've never been to Procida before,
only Ischia,

441
00:21:18,527 --> 00:21:21,864
Capri, never here. It's so beautiful.

442
00:21:21,947 --> 00:21:23,657
Procida is very beautiful.

443
00:21:23,741 --> 00:21:26,994
It's a small community
where everyone helps each other

444
00:21:27,077 --> 00:21:29,580
and it's a wonderful place to live.

445
00:21:29,663 --> 00:21:31,499
♪♪

446
00:21:33,292 --> 00:21:35,419
[Stanley] Less than a mile
from the lemon grove

447
00:21:35,503 --> 00:21:37,880
is Bruno's restaurant, Da Girone,

448
00:21:37,963 --> 00:21:41,050
where he and co-chef Francesco Scotto,

449
00:21:41,133 --> 00:21:42,426
have made it their mission

450
00:21:42,510 --> 00:21:45,554
to get people to eat
the lemons nobody wanted.

451
00:21:46,096 --> 00:21:48,015
Come on,
I'll introduce you to Francesco.

452
00:21:49,058 --> 00:21:51,268
-This is Francesco, our chef.
-Hi, Francesco.

453
00:21:51,352 --> 00:21:52,770
-I'm Stanley. Nice to meet you.
-Good morning.

454
00:21:53,270 --> 00:21:54,772
[Stanley] The first dish
Francesco and Bruno

455
00:21:54,855 --> 00:21:57,107
want me to try is a lemon salad.

456
00:21:57,399 --> 00:21:59,443
A traditional recipe from the island.

457
00:21:59,527 --> 00:22:00,778
You try this,

458
00:22:00,861 --> 00:22:02,196
insalata di limone.

459
00:22:02,279 --> 00:22:03,280
-Oh!
-You try.

460
00:22:03,572 --> 00:22:04,615
Thank you.

461
00:22:05,241 --> 00:22:06,700
So this is lemon?

462
00:22:07,034 --> 00:22:09,495
This is lemon.
As I explained before,

463
00:22:09,578 --> 00:22:12,122
the white part is much thicker,

464
00:22:12,873 --> 00:22:14,333
and it's called the albedo.

465
00:22:20,798 --> 00:22:21,924
That's really good.

466
00:22:22,842 --> 00:22:24,885
-It's sweet.
-Sweet.

467
00:22:24,969 --> 00:22:27,346
The white part of our lemon
is very sweet.

468
00:22:28,055 --> 00:22:30,641
[Stanley] Sweet, tangy,
and low in acidity,

469
00:22:30,724 --> 00:22:34,728
Procida lemons can also be used
to make a vibrant lemon pesto.

470
00:22:35,229 --> 00:22:36,272
Wow.

471
00:22:36,730 --> 00:22:41,235
It's so popular that Francesco and Bruno
decided to start a side business

472
00:22:41,318 --> 00:22:43,612
selling it all over Italy.

473
00:22:44,738 --> 00:22:49,577
For this pesto, we use
the juice of Procida lemons,

474
00:22:50,035 --> 00:22:53,414
fresh mint and basil.
Extra-virgin olive oil.

475
00:22:53,873 --> 00:22:58,127
Garlic, pine nuts and grated cheese.

476
00:22:58,210 --> 00:23:01,881
We use a cheese made only
with Italian milk.

477
00:23:02,423 --> 00:23:05,467
That's incredible.
Okay, let's see the pasta.

478
00:23:05,551 --> 00:23:06,302
Sí.

479
00:23:06,385 --> 00:23:08,178
Chef will make it.

480
00:23:08,262 --> 00:23:10,097
-[Stanley] Okay.
-[Bruno speaks Italian]

481
00:23:11,432 --> 00:23:13,142
Okay, now it's time for the spaghetti.

482
00:23:19,106 --> 00:23:20,649
Where are the mussels from?

483
00:23:20,733 --> 00:23:23,068
The mussels are here.
We already blanched them.

484
00:23:23,152 --> 00:23:25,154
Yes, from Vivara.

485
00:23:26,530 --> 00:23:29,950
[Stanley] Francesco emulsifies the sauce
with mussel stock.

486
00:23:30,910 --> 00:23:32,661
Then mixes in the lemon pesto.

487
00:23:34,371 --> 00:23:36,123
[Stanley] Ah!

488
00:23:38,918 --> 00:23:42,046
Away from the fire it melts slowly,

489
00:23:42,713 --> 00:23:44,214
then bit by bit we add the mussels.

490
00:23:48,177 --> 00:23:51,388
OK, we're ready,
just a bit more pasta water.

491
00:23:52,181 --> 00:23:55,434
Is this really just from Procida?

492
00:23:55,517 --> 00:23:58,020
Just from Procida. Everything...

493
00:23:58,687 --> 00:24:00,439
lemons from Procida.

494
00:24:00,898 --> 00:24:02,316
-Everything from Procida.
-Everything from Procida.

495
00:24:03,859 --> 00:24:04,985
Buon appetito.

496
00:24:08,364 --> 00:24:10,366
♪♪

497
00:24:14,662 --> 00:24:16,497
Thank you, chef. That's delicious.

498
00:24:16,580 --> 00:24:18,165
Thank you. Thank you.

499
00:24:18,791 --> 00:24:21,627
If you can get these lemons,
you've gotta make it.

500
00:24:21,710 --> 00:24:23,420
That's like... That's incredible.

501
00:24:24,421 --> 00:24:25,798
That's amazing.

502
00:24:27,424 --> 00:24:31,804
The people of Procida seem to
embody that age old expression,

503
00:24:31,887 --> 00:24:34,431
when life gives you lemons,
make lemon pesto.

504
00:24:36,850 --> 00:24:39,353
Another of the region's
most famous ingredients

505
00:24:39,436 --> 00:24:41,230
hides a darker story.

506
00:24:43,857 --> 00:24:45,859
♪♪

507
00:24:50,698 --> 00:24:55,285
I've come to a tomato farm in Ercolano,
at the base of the volcano,

508
00:24:55,369 --> 00:24:58,580
a stone's throw from
the infamous city of Pompeii.

509
00:24:59,581 --> 00:25:01,750
Though Vesuvius' destructive power

510
00:25:01,834 --> 00:25:04,294
is etched indelibly in local's minds,

511
00:25:04,795 --> 00:25:06,255
the land surrounding the crater

512
00:25:06,338 --> 00:25:09,800
is said produce some of
the best tomatoes in Italy.

513
00:25:09,883 --> 00:25:13,554
So, we're in Ercolano...

514
00:25:14,096 --> 00:25:17,808
[Stanley] Francesco Franzese
is the owner of La Fiammante,

515
00:25:17,891 --> 00:25:19,935
a canned tomato producer.

516
00:25:20,978 --> 00:25:25,566
And here, thanks to Vesuvius's
volcanic soil and to the sea,

517
00:25:25,649 --> 00:25:31,155
we manage to grow something magical.

518
00:25:31,238 --> 00:25:32,239
[Stanley] Sì.

519
00:25:32,322 --> 00:25:33,866
Francesco's taking me to meet

520
00:25:33,949 --> 00:25:37,453
one of his farmers, Salvatore Acampora,

521
00:25:37,536 --> 00:25:40,748
who grows a little-known
variety of heirloom tomato.

522
00:25:41,457 --> 00:25:43,542
Here he is, at work.

523
00:25:43,625 --> 00:25:45,335
Hello, hello...

524
00:25:45,419 --> 00:25:46,670
Hello. Nice to meet you.

525
00:25:46,754 --> 00:25:49,006
-My pleasure.
-Hello.

526
00:25:49,089 --> 00:25:51,050
Have you been
doing this your whole life?

527
00:25:51,133 --> 00:25:54,178
-Yes. I'm the fourth generation
-Really?

528
00:25:54,261 --> 00:25:56,889
cultivating
the Piennolo del Vesuvio tomato.

529
00:25:56,972 --> 00:25:59,224
-Right here?
-Here.

530
00:25:59,933 --> 00:26:03,687
We can only cultivate it here,
at the foot of Vesuvius,

531
00:26:03,771 --> 00:26:07,483
because, look, we have
a soil that's very sandy

532
00:26:07,566 --> 00:26:09,068
and full of minerals.

533
00:26:09,526 --> 00:26:11,236
This tomato, as you can see,

534
00:26:11,737 --> 00:26:13,072
it stays low.

535
00:26:13,655 --> 00:26:16,700
It's a lot of work,
it requires many hours of work,

536
00:26:16,784 --> 00:26:19,995
and it grows low
so we're always crouching.

537
00:26:20,079 --> 00:26:21,080
Ah, yeah.

538
00:26:21,163 --> 00:26:24,792
We work on quality,
not on quantity.

539
00:26:24,875 --> 00:26:27,086
-Should we taste the tomato?
-Yes, yes.

540
00:26:27,961 --> 00:26:29,505
-May I?
-Sure, sure.

541
00:26:30,464 --> 00:26:32,007
See, that's how we eat it.

542
00:26:32,091 --> 00:26:34,093
-We clean it...
-We clean it, right.

543
00:26:34,968 --> 00:26:37,054
because we're in the countryside.

544
00:26:41,183 --> 00:26:42,518
Wow.

545
00:26:43,602 --> 00:26:46,188
There's so many... flavors,

546
00:26:46,271 --> 00:26:49,566
but the, the concentration of flavors...

547
00:26:50,442 --> 00:26:51,735
Intense.

548
00:26:51,819 --> 00:26:53,320
So intense.

549
00:26:53,403 --> 00:26:55,197
Oh, my God.

550
00:26:56,281 --> 00:27:01,745
These delicious tomatoes are a testament
to the resilience of Campania's farmers.

551
00:27:02,913 --> 00:27:04,414
But beyond the volcano,

552
00:27:04,498 --> 00:27:07,543
there are far greater dangers
facing these growers.

553
00:27:09,753 --> 00:27:13,465
Though Italy is one of the world's
largest tomato producers,

554
00:27:13,549 --> 00:27:15,217
it's long been haunted by claims

555
00:27:15,300 --> 00:27:18,387
of exploitation and abuse
towards its laborers.

556
00:27:20,556 --> 00:27:21,765
I'm going to lunch

557
00:27:21,849 --> 00:27:25,394
to meet Francesco's
business partner, Yvan Sagnet.

558
00:27:25,477 --> 00:27:26,645
[indistinct chatter]

559
00:27:26,728 --> 00:27:29,106
♪♪

560
00:27:29,606 --> 00:27:31,608
Tell me your story.

561
00:27:32,401 --> 00:27:35,779
I've got Cameroonian heritage.

562
00:27:35,863 --> 00:27:38,574
I came here because of my studies.

563
00:27:39,283 --> 00:27:42,536
And then I tried working around Italy

564
00:27:42,619 --> 00:27:44,955
in order to pay my university costs.

565
00:27:46,081 --> 00:27:47,749
So, yes, I moved here,

566
00:27:47,833 --> 00:27:50,711
I was told that if I wanted to work,

567
00:27:50,794 --> 00:27:53,297
I should speak to the foreman.

568
00:27:53,714 --> 00:27:54,756
Foreman?

569
00:27:55,173 --> 00:27:58,260
A few days later this big man came in.

570
00:27:58,343 --> 00:28:01,430
I saw everyone going over to him

571
00:28:01,513 --> 00:28:02,931
with their documents.

572
00:28:03,682 --> 00:28:06,810
He said, "You're hired.
You start tomorrow at 5:00 a.m.

573
00:28:07,311 --> 00:28:10,939
We meet here at 4:00 a.m.,
then we leave."

574
00:28:11,356 --> 00:28:15,319
Our job was to fill
these cases of tomatoes.

575
00:28:15,402 --> 00:28:17,905
One of these cases
was about 660 pounds,

576
00:28:17,988 --> 00:28:19,656
300 kilograms of tomatoes.

577
00:28:20,115 --> 00:28:26,914
The foreman only pays you
when the case is full.

578
00:28:27,539 --> 00:28:30,500
€3.5 for 300 kg.

579
00:28:31,543 --> 00:28:33,295
And the foreman then says,

580
00:28:33,378 --> 00:28:36,423
"You've got to pay me €5
for the transport."

581
00:28:36,506 --> 00:28:40,886
Then there's the sandwich,
like this €3.50.

582
00:28:40,969 --> 00:28:43,847
Water for €1.50.

583
00:28:43,931 --> 00:28:47,726
So, for a 14 euros earned,
I got only 4.

584
00:28:48,894 --> 00:28:52,022
In the end after a few days,

585
00:28:53,315 --> 00:28:54,733
I said, "That's enough."

586
00:28:54,816 --> 00:28:58,070
I organized a strike with my friends.

587
00:28:58,362 --> 00:29:02,783
I've been threatened by the foreman.

588
00:29:04,034 --> 00:29:05,077
[Stanley] Yvan's two-month strike

589
00:29:05,160 --> 00:29:07,371
became a national news story,

590
00:29:07,454 --> 00:29:10,874
and in 2016, helped in
passing a new Italian law

591
00:29:10,958 --> 00:29:13,752
criminalizing "caporalato."

592
00:29:15,963 --> 00:29:19,091
However, without proper
policing and accountability,

593
00:29:19,174 --> 00:29:22,886
migrant exploitation continues
to be an endemic problem.

594
00:29:22,970 --> 00:29:27,015
So today, Yvan and Francesco
have joined forces

595
00:29:27,099 --> 00:29:29,309
to produce the first
canned tomatoes in Italy,

596
00:29:29,393 --> 00:29:32,980
certifiably picked
by laborers paid fair wages.

597
00:29:33,563 --> 00:29:38,694
The difference between a fair-wage product
and one that is not, is 10 cents a tin.

598
00:29:39,444 --> 00:29:45,826
Because otherwise
we'll keep fueling this model

599
00:29:45,909 --> 00:29:49,413
of capitalism, where the product
is worth more than human beings.

600
00:29:49,496 --> 00:29:53,875
Because this is in our society today,
this matters more than me…

601
00:29:53,959 --> 00:29:55,377
-Yes.
-...the worker.

602
00:29:55,460 --> 00:29:56,461
Yes.

603
00:29:57,838 --> 00:30:01,633
As positive as Yvan
and Francesco's solution is,

604
00:30:01,717 --> 00:30:03,635
ultimately, it's up to all of us

605
00:30:03,719 --> 00:30:07,431
to decide what the true price
is of the food we eat.

606
00:30:08,557 --> 00:30:11,018
But sometimes, from tough situations,

607
00:30:11,101 --> 00:30:12,853
great things can happen,

608
00:30:12,936 --> 00:30:15,230
as my next stop shows.

609
00:30:17,065 --> 00:30:19,067
[buffaloes bellowing]

610
00:30:20,068 --> 00:30:21,445
The southern part of Campania

611
00:30:21,528 --> 00:30:24,865
is known above all
for one thing, buffaloes.

612
00:30:27,784 --> 00:30:29,995
The region houses 95%

613
00:30:30,078 --> 00:30:33,540
of Italy's Mediterranean
water buffalo population,

614
00:30:34,249 --> 00:30:36,209
producing virtually all of the country's

615
00:30:36,293 --> 00:30:39,087
beloved mozzarella di bufala.

616
00:30:40,589 --> 00:30:42,799
I've come to the town of Paestum,

617
00:30:42,883 --> 00:30:44,801
in the rural Cilento area

618
00:30:44,885 --> 00:30:47,471
to visit one of the many buffalo farms.

619
00:30:48,764 --> 00:30:50,557
Here we sell the cheese.

620
00:30:51,099 --> 00:30:53,393
[Stanley] Dairy farmer Vincenzo Barlotti

621
00:30:53,477 --> 00:30:56,188
is an expert on all things buffalo.

622
00:30:56,271 --> 00:30:57,856
Mm. Mm. Mm. Mm.

623
00:30:58,315 --> 00:31:02,319
This is the counter with all
the products from buffalo milk.

624
00:31:03,320 --> 00:31:06,782
I'll let you taste the mozzarella
which is our most important product.

625
00:31:06,865 --> 00:31:07,866
Sí.

626
00:31:09,242 --> 00:31:12,996
Just a little salt, so you can
taste the milk, it's intense.

627
00:31:17,918 --> 00:31:19,753
Oh, man, that's good.

628
00:31:20,712 --> 00:31:23,715
Oh, sorry, I made a mess on their floor.

629
00:31:23,799 --> 00:31:25,842
♪♪

630
00:31:26,718 --> 00:31:32,057
They are swamp animals,
they love water.

631
00:31:32,432 --> 00:31:37,979
What's the difference between
cow's milk and buffalo milk?

632
00:31:38,063 --> 00:31:41,399
Buffalo milk
is two and a half times fattier.

633
00:31:41,983 --> 00:31:46,988
The yield is different.
It yields more because there is more fat.

634
00:31:47,072 --> 00:31:48,240
Sì. Sì.

635
00:31:48,323 --> 00:31:51,993
-How many are there?
-We have 450 animals.

636
00:31:52,077 --> 00:31:58,542
Buffalos arrived here in the 10th century,
in Norman times, from Sicily.

637
00:31:58,625 --> 00:32:03,213
Before, buffaloes were
used as working animals

638
00:32:03,296 --> 00:32:06,508
to pull ploughs, to work the land.

639
00:32:06,591 --> 00:32:08,218
For agriculture.

640
00:32:08,301 --> 00:32:11,596
Then they discovered the milk
was very good and nutritious

641
00:32:11,680 --> 00:32:18,019
and Benedictine monks of Capua
started making mozzarella.

642
00:32:18,186 --> 00:32:19,396
They called them "mozzate".

643
00:32:19,479 --> 00:32:20,480
[Stanley] Ah.

644
00:32:20,564 --> 00:32:22,149
♪♪

645
00:32:22,232 --> 00:32:24,776
Until it was drained in the 1930s,

646
00:32:24,860 --> 00:32:28,446
the Cilento was an inhospitable
malarial marshland,

647
00:32:29,030 --> 00:32:32,200
where only these resilient
creatures could survive.

648
00:32:34,744 --> 00:32:36,621
And due to the area's poverty,

649
00:32:36,913 --> 00:32:41,209
pungent buffalo cheeses
were seen as food fit only for the poor.

650
00:32:43,753 --> 00:32:47,674
In the 1960s, interest
in buffalo mozzarella surged,

651
00:32:47,757 --> 00:32:51,386
thanks in part to a government initiative
to buy Italian,

652
00:32:51,469 --> 00:32:54,848
which led to a new appreciation
of its unique flavors.

653
00:32:57,309 --> 00:32:59,144
Thanks to mozzarella production,

654
00:32:59,227 --> 00:33:02,647
the Cilento has experienced
an incredible gastronomic boom

655
00:33:02,731 --> 00:33:04,149
in recent decades.

656
00:33:05,066 --> 00:33:08,278
Just a couple of miles
downriver is Le Trabe,

657
00:33:08,361 --> 00:33:11,531
a restaurant that's turning
even humble buffalo ingredients

658
00:33:12,073 --> 00:33:14,159
into Michelin star cuisine.

659
00:33:14,826 --> 00:33:16,036
Marco.

660
00:33:16,870 --> 00:33:18,455
-Hey, Stanley.
-Hi.

661
00:33:18,538 --> 00:33:20,957
[Stanley] Run by Chef Marco Rispo,

662
00:33:21,041 --> 00:33:24,127
Le Trabe's menu is inspired
by its surroundings.

663
00:33:24,211 --> 00:33:25,212
Beautiful.

664
00:33:25,295 --> 00:33:26,880
Come and have a look.

665
00:33:28,757 --> 00:33:33,136
So, Stanley, this area is called
Capo di Fiume.

666
00:33:33,220 --> 00:33:36,973
Already in medieval times,

667
00:33:37,057 --> 00:33:40,268
there were mills here
and water was used differently.

668
00:33:40,352 --> 00:33:41,353
Ah.

669
00:33:41,978 --> 00:33:45,815
And it's in the last 22 years

670
00:33:45,899 --> 00:33:50,403
that the restaurant was born
and we built this place up.

671
00:33:51,947 --> 00:33:56,201
[Stanley] Marco's showing me a dish
called bufala, bufala, bufala,

672
00:33:56,284 --> 00:33:58,036
a recipe he created to showcase

673
00:33:58,119 --> 00:34:01,122
the versatility and flavor
of buffalo milk.

674
00:34:01,831 --> 00:34:05,252
We use all buffalo
milk-based products.

675
00:34:05,335 --> 00:34:07,128
Normal ricotta,

676
00:34:07,837 --> 00:34:09,506
and the smoked one.

677
00:34:09,589 --> 00:34:10,590
Yeah.

678
00:34:10,674 --> 00:34:14,177
And this one - you know when
you're bringing mozzarellas back home?

679
00:34:14,261 --> 00:34:17,138
That you have water
that is a bit salty?

680
00:34:17,722 --> 00:34:20,767
Well, this one we use to cook the pasta.

681
00:34:21,851 --> 00:34:22,894
Ah.

682
00:34:23,812 --> 00:34:26,439
[Stanley] Marco's trick
is to cook the pasta in this,

683
00:34:26,523 --> 00:34:27,607
acqua di governo,

684
00:34:28,066 --> 00:34:30,819
the acidic water
used to cool the mozzarella.

685
00:34:32,737 --> 00:34:33,738
It's hot...

686
00:34:35,365 --> 00:34:36,825
Can you taste the salinity?

687
00:34:36,908 --> 00:34:37,909
Oh, yeah.

688
00:34:39,119 --> 00:34:40,120
Very salty.

689
00:34:40,203 --> 00:34:41,788
Yeah, yeah, it's nice though.

690
00:34:43,331 --> 00:34:44,708
And we'll put it here.

691
00:34:45,125 --> 00:34:46,293
Are you from here?

692
00:34:46,376 --> 00:34:48,253
-I'm Neapolitan.
-Neapolitan.

693
00:34:49,004 --> 00:34:50,088
And for how long have you been here?

694
00:34:50,171 --> 00:34:52,007
-Six years.
-Six years.

695
00:34:52,090 --> 00:34:53,091
Do you like it?

696
00:34:53,174 --> 00:34:54,175
Yes.

697
00:34:54,259 --> 00:34:57,178
-Well, it's beautiful, right?
-Beautiful.

698
00:34:58,471 --> 00:35:01,558
For the sauce
we just melt the butter.

699
00:35:01,641 --> 00:35:02,642
[Stanley] Mm-hmm.

700
00:35:03,977 --> 00:35:06,187
And the water we talked about.

701
00:35:06,271 --> 00:35:07,314
[Stanley] Mm-hmm.

702
00:35:10,609 --> 00:35:12,319
So, let's get the pasta out.

703
00:35:15,655 --> 00:35:17,073
Oh, it smells good.

704
00:35:19,367 --> 00:35:22,203
Marco adds some creamy buffalo ricotta,

705
00:35:22,287 --> 00:35:24,623
that's been whipped with buffalo milk.

706
00:35:26,416 --> 00:35:28,168
See, now the heat...

707
00:35:29,085 --> 00:35:30,462
and it melts.

708
00:35:34,257 --> 00:35:37,010
[Stanley] Meanwhile,
he heats the smoked ricotta

709
00:35:37,093 --> 00:35:38,803
to give it a sticky texture.

710
00:35:39,262 --> 00:35:41,890
You have a bit of sauce, wait.

711
00:35:42,390 --> 00:35:44,267
-So...
-Thank you.

712
00:35:44,768 --> 00:35:45,852
And that's it.

713
00:35:48,813 --> 00:35:50,315
Now we're putting it on the plate.

714
00:35:52,233 --> 00:35:54,653
We're going halves on this.
Not all for you, OK?

715
00:35:54,736 --> 00:35:56,071
[both laugh]

716
00:35:56,696 --> 00:35:58,281
Now I'm starving.

717
00:35:58,615 --> 00:35:59,699
[laughter]

718
00:36:02,035 --> 00:36:03,495
Can you see the texture?

719
00:36:04,496 --> 00:36:06,122
It's creamier.

720
00:36:09,959 --> 00:36:10,960
[Marco Rispo] E voilà!

721
00:36:20,428 --> 00:36:21,888
[Stanley] That's incredible.

722
00:36:22,305 --> 00:36:23,306
But that is like...

723
00:36:23,807 --> 00:36:25,183
Can you tell the pasta
was cooked al dente?

724
00:36:25,266 --> 00:36:26,267
Yes.

725
00:36:26,351 --> 00:36:28,019
The acidity, the creaminess?

726
00:36:28,103 --> 00:36:29,229
Yes.

727
00:36:29,312 --> 00:36:31,022
It feels like you're eating a mozzarella.

728
00:36:31,106 --> 00:36:32,107
Yeah.

729
00:36:33,233 --> 00:36:35,193
Super interesting.

730
00:36:36,486 --> 00:36:37,821
Thank you, Stanley.

731
00:36:37,904 --> 00:36:38,905
[Stanley] Oh, my God.

732
00:36:40,407 --> 00:36:42,283
Mm. Mm.

733
00:36:43,952 --> 00:36:47,163
Though luxuriously reworked by Marco,

734
00:36:47,247 --> 00:36:49,124
the primal taste of buffalo mozzarella...

735
00:36:49,207 --> 00:36:50,333
I'm sorry.

736
00:36:51,000 --> 00:36:54,629
...is something that is a part
of every Campanian's identity.

737
00:36:55,171 --> 00:36:56,756
That's embarrassing.

738
00:36:57,173 --> 00:36:59,384
I've never tasted anything like that.

739
00:36:59,801 --> 00:37:01,136
Here, you can try it.

740
00:37:01,219 --> 00:37:02,679
Oh, come on, give it to her.

741
00:37:02,762 --> 00:37:04,013
[crew member] Don't film me trying it.

742
00:37:04,097 --> 00:37:06,224
[Stanley] It's weird, it's like your brain

743
00:37:06,307 --> 00:37:07,726
can't put it together,

744
00:37:07,809 --> 00:37:09,102
and it's very interesting.

745
00:37:10,478 --> 00:37:11,896
It's amazing.

746
00:37:11,980 --> 00:37:14,232
It's a clever combination.

747
00:37:14,357 --> 00:37:15,483
It's genius.

748
00:37:15,567 --> 00:37:17,277
It's like carbonara but better.

749
00:37:17,360 --> 00:37:19,279
[Stanley] Yeah, but I don't
even know what it is.

750
00:37:19,362 --> 00:37:21,573
It's incredible. It's so good.

751
00:37:21,656 --> 00:37:23,324
It takes great vision to elevate

752
00:37:23,408 --> 00:37:25,034
such a humble ingredient,

753
00:37:25,118 --> 00:37:29,080
a notion that has motivated the family
I'm on my way to meet.

754
00:37:32,333 --> 00:37:34,335
♪♪

755
00:37:39,007 --> 00:37:41,718
I'm heading to Sant'Agata de' Goti

756
00:37:41,801 --> 00:37:45,263
in Campania's remote Benevento province.

757
00:37:46,306 --> 00:37:47,766
In just a few decades,

758
00:37:47,849 --> 00:37:51,394
this area has become Campania's
most important wine region,

759
00:37:52,395 --> 00:37:54,856
producing 50% of its grapes.

760
00:37:56,983 --> 00:37:59,486
Although the grapevine
that started all this,

761
00:37:59,569 --> 00:38:02,447
was so undervalued
that it almost disappeared.

762
00:38:04,491 --> 00:38:05,700
-[Paola] Ciao.
-Stanley.

763
00:38:06,534 --> 00:38:08,953
Run by sisters Paola and Annachiara...

764
00:38:09,037 --> 00:38:10,246
[Annachiara] Welcome.

765
00:38:10,330 --> 00:38:13,416
[Stanley] ...Cantine Mustilli
were the first winery in Italy

766
00:38:13,500 --> 00:38:15,168
to bottle Falanghina.

767
00:38:16,503 --> 00:38:20,840
So we are in the vineyard
of the property of the family,

768
00:38:20,924 --> 00:38:24,719
and we have different grape varieties,

769
00:38:25,136 --> 00:38:28,807
uh, but we are very famous
for Falanghina grape.

770
00:38:29,224 --> 00:38:33,186
So when our father started
the production of this wine,

771
00:38:33,269 --> 00:38:35,563
uh, he made a research in the area,

772
00:38:35,647 --> 00:38:38,358
uh, and he discovered
one called Falanghina

773
00:38:38,441 --> 00:38:39,943
that he thought was very interesting,

774
00:38:40,026 --> 00:38:42,403
so he started the production of this wine

775
00:38:42,487 --> 00:38:45,073
and he made just 3,000 bottles.

776
00:38:45,156 --> 00:38:46,950
Now the production of Falanghina in,

777
00:38:47,033 --> 00:38:49,828
in the entire Campania region
is nine million bottles.

778
00:38:49,911 --> 00:38:51,663
[Stanley] Jeez. And this is it?

779
00:38:51,746 --> 00:38:52,956
The Falanghina.

780
00:38:53,039 --> 00:38:54,082
-[Paola] Yeah.
-[Annachiara] This is it.

781
00:38:54,165 --> 00:38:55,625
This our...

782
00:38:55,708 --> 00:38:56,709
...apple of our eye.

783
00:38:57,794 --> 00:38:59,754
-And, uh, this is the...
-[Stanley] And this is--

784
00:38:59,838 --> 00:39:00,922
-[Annachiara] ...the bunch...
-[Stanley] Yeah.

785
00:39:01,005 --> 00:39:03,716
...which is very big and very, very green

786
00:39:03,800 --> 00:39:05,677
and, uh, quite acidic.

787
00:39:05,760 --> 00:39:06,761
[Stanley] Uh-uh.

788
00:39:06,845 --> 00:39:11,057
[Annachiara] So, it will
increase the size till August,

789
00:39:11,140 --> 00:39:14,936
so accumulate the sugar
and the acidity it goes...

790
00:39:15,019 --> 00:39:16,271
-Drops down.
-Drop down.

791
00:39:16,354 --> 00:39:17,355
[Stanley] Oh, wow.

792
00:39:17,438 --> 00:39:19,524
During the maturation, the ripening.

793
00:39:19,607 --> 00:39:21,943
-[Stanley] Right.
-[Annachiara] Then we harvest.

794
00:39:23,444 --> 00:39:25,488
[Stanley]
When the Mustilli family rediscovered

795
00:39:25,572 --> 00:39:27,574
this ancient grape variety,

796
00:39:27,657 --> 00:39:29,742
local farmers
had all but stopped growing it,

797
00:39:30,535 --> 00:39:32,328
because its high natural acidity

798
00:39:32,412 --> 00:39:35,748
produced mouth-puckeringly sour grapes.

799
00:39:37,500 --> 00:39:39,127
By ripening the vines for longer,

800
00:39:39,210 --> 00:39:42,755
the Mustillis learned
to taper that sharp acidity.

801
00:39:43,381 --> 00:39:44,799
And now we're gonna go to the wine cellar.

802
00:39:44,883 --> 00:39:46,092
-[Paola and Annachiara] Yes.
-[Stanley] Right?

803
00:39:46,175 --> 00:39:47,552
-Where it's nice and cool.
-[Annachiara] Yes.

804
00:39:48,845 --> 00:39:51,514
[Stanley] But they only discovered
the wine's true potential

805
00:39:51,598 --> 00:39:53,808
during the last stage of production,

806
00:39:53,892 --> 00:39:55,518
which happens in town.

807
00:39:59,522 --> 00:40:00,648
Oh, wow.

808
00:40:01,858 --> 00:40:03,776
And now, down.

809
00:40:04,277 --> 00:40:05,361
-[Stanley] Now down.
-[laughter]

810
00:40:05,445 --> 00:40:06,446
Okay, go first.

811
00:40:06,529 --> 00:40:07,030
Can I?

812
00:40:07,113 --> 00:40:08,114
Yes.

813
00:40:09,115 --> 00:40:10,825
Wow. Wow!

814
00:40:11,367 --> 00:40:12,702
Oh, it's nice and cold.

815
00:40:12,785 --> 00:40:14,162
-[Annachiara] Yes.
-[Stanley] Yeah. [laughs]

816
00:40:14,245 --> 00:40:16,080
[Paola] It's always the same temperature.

817
00:40:18,333 --> 00:40:20,043
[Stanley] But this has
been here for centuries.

818
00:40:20,126 --> 00:40:21,169
[Paola] Yeah.

819
00:40:21,252 --> 00:40:22,962
Was it all done by hand?

820
00:40:23,046 --> 00:40:25,006
[Annachiara] Yeah, yeah, by hand.

821
00:40:25,089 --> 00:40:26,507
There was no television.

822
00:40:26,591 --> 00:40:27,884
Yeah. [laughs]

823
00:40:28,676 --> 00:40:30,595
And this is the first bottle
of Falanghina.

824
00:40:31,471 --> 00:40:33,264
[Stanley] And how did people react to it?

825
00:40:33,348 --> 00:40:35,683
Hmm... he sold to friends.

826
00:40:35,767 --> 00:40:36,893
-[Stanley] He sold to friends.
-Yes.

827
00:40:36,976 --> 00:40:38,186
Friends went to the restaurant,

828
00:40:38,269 --> 00:40:40,605
asked for Mustillino,
nobody knew Mustilli.

829
00:40:40,688 --> 00:40:42,607
They called us and the,

830
00:40:42,690 --> 00:40:45,860
the restaurant manager
called us and bought the wine.

831
00:40:45,944 --> 00:40:47,236
-Passaparola.
-Really?

832
00:40:47,320 --> 00:40:49,656
[Stanley] Oh, oh, word of mouth.
Yes, right. Yeah.

833
00:40:49,739 --> 00:40:52,533
-[Paola] This was the beginning.
-[Stanley] Wow. Yeah.

834
00:40:52,617 --> 00:40:55,119
[Annachiara] So this is our library

835
00:40:55,203 --> 00:40:58,081
and, uh, there are all the wines

836
00:40:58,164 --> 00:41:01,876
from each year, from the '76.

837
00:41:01,960 --> 00:41:03,711
These were the, these are the early ones?

838
00:41:03,795 --> 00:41:07,715
Yes. So for example, this is a '77,

839
00:41:07,799 --> 00:41:09,676
and, look, no deposit.

840
00:41:09,759 --> 00:41:11,260
We, sometime we open it.

841
00:41:11,344 --> 00:41:12,512
[Stanley] There's no sediment or anything.

842
00:41:12,595 --> 00:41:14,555
-[Annachiara] Uh, no. No.
-[Stanley] No.

843
00:41:14,639 --> 00:41:17,684
[Annachiara] Because the wine
it's conserved very, very well.

844
00:41:17,767 --> 00:41:19,227
[Stanley] Wow, it's amazing.

845
00:41:19,310 --> 00:41:21,938
But it's very unusual
for white wine, isn't it?

846
00:41:22,397 --> 00:41:26,401
This is because the acidity
preserves the oxygenation,

847
00:41:26,484 --> 00:41:27,735
the aging.

848
00:41:27,819 --> 00:41:30,363
Wow, that's, yeah, that's interesting.

849
00:41:30,446 --> 00:41:31,739
♪♪

850
00:41:31,823 --> 00:41:35,368
Most white wines tend to spoil
after a couple of years.

851
00:41:36,744 --> 00:41:38,413
Falanghina's higher acidity

852
00:41:38,496 --> 00:41:41,124
means it has the potential
to be aged for decades.

853
00:41:44,252 --> 00:41:48,047
And to put that to the test,
we're going to do a vertical tasting,

854
00:41:48,131 --> 00:41:51,259
trying the same wine
in two different vintages.

855
00:41:51,759 --> 00:41:53,219
So, this is...

856
00:41:53,302 --> 00:41:54,929
This is the Falanghina.

857
00:41:55,013 --> 00:41:56,180
[Stanley] 2023.

858
00:41:56,264 --> 00:41:58,975
2023, and our classical one.

859
00:41:59,767 --> 00:42:00,810
Thank you.

860
00:42:02,729 --> 00:42:03,980
Thank you.

861
00:42:04,063 --> 00:42:05,106
[all] Cheers.

862
00:42:05,189 --> 00:42:06,274
[Stanley] Thank you.

863
00:42:09,819 --> 00:42:11,279
-[Paola exhales]
-Oh.

864
00:42:11,779 --> 00:42:13,448
It's very fresh.

865
00:42:13,531 --> 00:42:14,741
The freshness...

866
00:42:14,824 --> 00:42:17,785
It's really fresh,
acidic and minerally too.

867
00:42:17,869 --> 00:42:19,203
Yes, right.

868
00:42:19,287 --> 00:42:20,705
-Very gentle.
-Yeah.

869
00:42:20,788 --> 00:42:23,166
It's delic... it's absolutely delicious.

870
00:42:23,249 --> 00:42:25,877
[Annachiara] Now, a special gift for you.

871
00:42:25,960 --> 00:42:28,421
This is the 2002.

872
00:42:28,504 --> 00:42:29,547
2002.

873
00:42:29,630 --> 00:42:31,632
Alright, I'm very excited to try this.

874
00:42:32,842 --> 00:42:34,218
Wow.

875
00:42:35,344 --> 00:42:37,221
[Annachiara] Of course, the color is, uh,

876
00:42:37,305 --> 00:42:39,515
more deep, it's normal.

877
00:42:40,016 --> 00:42:44,103
A bit of oxidation,
through the cork, of course.

878
00:42:44,187 --> 00:42:45,480
-Cheers.
-You know when you open...

879
00:42:45,563 --> 00:42:47,732
-[Annachiara] Cheers.
-When you open an old bottle...

880
00:42:47,815 --> 00:42:50,234
-And limpid.
-It's always, uh...

881
00:42:50,318 --> 00:42:54,322
-[Stanley] Totally.
-It's always a bit, um, anxious.

882
00:42:54,405 --> 00:42:55,656
-Anxious.
-[Stanley] Yeah.

883
00:42:55,740 --> 00:42:56,991
[Annachiara] When you open an old bottle,

884
00:42:57,075 --> 00:42:59,827
because you don't know
what happens inside. Yeah?

885
00:43:00,244 --> 00:43:01,454
-[Stanley] Mm-hmm.
-[Paola] For sure.

886
00:43:01,788 --> 00:43:02,914
Wow.

887
00:43:02,997 --> 00:43:04,832
[Annachiara] But this is very interesting.

888
00:43:05,291 --> 00:43:06,918
[Stanley] It's very unusual.

889
00:43:07,001 --> 00:43:09,378
This is delicious,
but it's completely different.

890
00:43:09,462 --> 00:43:11,130
-[Annachiara] More structure.
-Totally different.

891
00:43:11,214 --> 00:43:13,132
More structures. Smoother.

892
00:43:13,216 --> 00:43:15,134
[Annachiara] Hydrocarburic. More balsamic.

893
00:43:15,218 --> 00:43:16,969
Yeah, not as acidic.

894
00:43:17,053 --> 00:43:19,514
You can't taste so much acidity,

895
00:43:19,597 --> 00:43:23,684
because it's balanced
with the... the body.

896
00:43:24,227 --> 00:43:26,437
Delicious. Wow.

897
00:43:26,521 --> 00:43:28,773
-Thank you for everything.
-Thank you.

898
00:43:28,856 --> 00:43:30,358
That's really wonderful.

899
00:43:30,441 --> 00:43:34,612
Falanghina's meteoric success
has brought pride and prosperity

900
00:43:34,695 --> 00:43:36,739
to this remote part of Campania,

901
00:43:36,823 --> 00:43:39,283
in great part thanks
to this family's perseverance.

902
00:43:39,367 --> 00:43:41,119
♪♪

903
00:43:41,202 --> 00:43:44,413
This region's vibrant cuisine
tells the story

904
00:43:44,497 --> 00:43:45,832
of how Campania's people

905
00:43:45,915 --> 00:43:48,626
have turned needs into opportunities.

906
00:43:50,253 --> 00:43:53,089
The fact that Campania's food
is eaten today

907
00:43:53,172 --> 00:43:54,632
all over the world,

908
00:43:54,715 --> 00:43:56,676
is a sign that perhaps

909
00:43:56,759 --> 00:44:00,388
great challenges
can produce great results.

910
00:44:00,471 --> 00:44:02,849
♪♪