1 00:00:00,716 --> 00:00:03,816 (tense upbeat music) (crowd chattering) 2 00:00:03,916 --> 00:00:06,856 - [Reporter] New York Fashion Week is now in full swing, 3 00:00:06,956 --> 00:00:10,456 a time when who you wear matters as much as what you wear. 4 00:00:10,557 --> 00:00:13,897 - This is a huge to-do here in New York City, twice a year. 5 00:00:13,997 --> 00:00:15,537 It's when all of the top designers 6 00:00:15,637 --> 00:00:18,417 preview their upcoming collections. 7 00:00:18,518 --> 00:00:19,738 Great parties. 8 00:00:19,838 --> 00:00:21,618 On any given day you'll see celebrities, 9 00:00:21,718 --> 00:00:23,978 socialites, supermodels. 10 00:00:24,078 --> 00:00:25,618 - It's Fashion Week in New York, 11 00:00:25,719 --> 00:00:27,699 and CNN's Gail O'Neil has been braving the crowds. 12 00:00:27,799 --> 00:00:28,619 Morning, Gail. 13 00:00:28,719 --> 00:00:29,419 - Morning, Carol. 14 00:00:29,519 --> 00:00:31,379 I'll tell you, this is the biggest media crush 15 00:00:31,479 --> 00:00:33,859 I've seen so far, and it's all over maternity wear. 16 00:00:33,960 --> 00:00:35,700 - It was going to be the first-ever 17 00:00:35,800 --> 00:00:37,820 maternity clothing fashion show 18 00:00:37,920 --> 00:00:39,780 during New York's Fashion Week, so that was a big deal. 19 00:00:39,880 --> 00:00:42,060 - Here we have the designer, Liz Lange, herself, 20 00:00:42,161 --> 00:00:43,181 and several of her models, 21 00:00:43,281 --> 00:00:46,621 who you can see are actually with child, very pregnant. 22 00:00:46,721 --> 00:00:48,181 - Why would a woman wanna take a year off 23 00:00:48,281 --> 00:00:51,041 of looking fashionable, feeling pretty, feeling great? 24 00:00:52,602 --> 00:00:54,302 The show starts, you're backstage, 25 00:00:54,402 --> 00:00:55,782 you're kind of peeking through the curtain. 26 00:00:55,882 --> 00:00:56,902 You're watching the show, 27 00:00:57,002 --> 00:00:59,382 you're watching the audience reaction. 28 00:00:59,482 --> 00:01:04,102 And halfway through the show, I saw that the CNN cameras 29 00:01:04,203 --> 00:01:07,483 were kind of running out of the tent mid-show. 30 00:01:09,244 --> 00:01:13,384 I'd say within 10 minutes of walking out of my show 31 00:01:13,484 --> 00:01:14,824 that the world had changed. 32 00:01:14,924 --> 00:01:15,864 - We're gonna go live right now 33 00:01:15,964 --> 00:01:19,234 and show you a picture of the World Trade Center, 34 00:01:19,325 --> 00:01:20,985 where I understand... 35 00:01:21,085 --> 00:01:23,085 Do we have it? 36 00:01:23,445 --> 00:01:24,825 - [Reporter] We have a breaking news story 37 00:01:24,925 --> 00:01:25,665 to tell you about. 38 00:01:25,765 --> 00:01:28,025 Apparently, a plane has just crashed 39 00:01:28,126 --> 00:01:30,306 into the World Trade Center here in New York City. 40 00:01:30,406 --> 00:01:33,946 It happened just a few moments ago. 41 00:01:34,046 --> 00:01:35,826 - [Eyewitness] It's quite terrifying. 42 00:01:35,927 --> 00:01:36,987 I'm in shock right now. 43 00:01:37,087 --> 00:01:40,567 I came out of the subway and I saw a big ball of fire. 44 00:01:44,168 --> 00:01:46,828 - I thought the building was gonna topple over, 45 00:01:46,928 --> 00:01:47,668 and I don't know what it was. 46 00:01:47,768 --> 00:01:48,548 What was it? A bomb? 47 00:01:48,648 --> 00:01:50,268 - [Bystander] Somebody yelled, "The Chrysler Building," 48 00:01:50,368 --> 00:01:51,388 but it's fine. 49 00:01:51,488 --> 00:01:52,408 - [Reporter] Yves Saint Laurent party's 50 00:01:52,489 --> 00:01:53,709 supposed to be tonight with Tom Ford, 51 00:01:53,809 --> 00:01:54,549 I'm sure he's gonna cancel. 52 00:01:54,649 --> 00:01:55,429 - Oh, absolutely. 53 00:01:55,529 --> 00:01:56,469 I mean, Giorgio Armani's 54 00:01:56,569 --> 00:01:57,289 canceled everything. - Are they here? 55 00:01:57,369 --> 00:01:58,909 Is Tom Ford in town now? Is he here? 56 00:01:59,009 --> 00:01:59,949 - [Bystander] Come this way. 57 00:02:00,049 --> 00:02:02,669 (bystander shrieking) 58 00:02:02,770 --> 00:02:04,230 - I remember thinking, 59 00:02:04,330 --> 00:02:06,430 "Why is anyone gonna want to wear a ballgown 60 00:02:06,530 --> 00:02:08,590 "or party dress again? 61 00:02:08,690 --> 00:02:11,310 "Why is anyone gonna want to read a fashion magazine 62 00:02:11,411 --> 00:02:12,271 "when they've gone through this? 63 00:02:12,371 --> 00:02:16,271 "Why does anyone care about clothes?" 64 00:02:16,371 --> 00:02:19,611 (gentle somber music) 65 00:02:21,652 --> 00:02:23,632 - There was a lull for a moment, 66 00:02:23,732 --> 00:02:27,032 but then, within a few months' time, 67 00:02:27,132 --> 00:02:30,712 people started to consume. 68 00:02:30,813 --> 00:02:34,393 It was almost like your patriotic duty to be a capitalist. 69 00:02:34,493 --> 00:02:38,093 (climatic dramatic music) 70 00:02:39,134 --> 00:02:42,534 (delicate pensive music) 71 00:02:45,295 --> 00:02:55,295 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 72 00:03:01,456 --> 00:03:06,716 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 73 00:03:06,817 --> 00:03:09,117 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 74 00:03:09,217 --> 00:03:11,717 ♪ Ah ♪ 75 00:03:11,818 --> 00:03:15,458 (dramatic thoughtful music) 76 00:03:30,020 --> 00:03:33,420 (delicate pensive music) 77 00:03:39,781 --> 00:03:44,781 (traffic whooshing) (tense thoughtful music) 78 00:03:53,422 --> 00:03:57,702 (tense thoughtful music continues) 79 00:04:06,224 --> 00:04:09,164 (audience cheering) (audience applauding) 80 00:04:09,264 --> 00:04:13,414 - Since John arrived we sell 50% more every six months, 81 00:04:13,505 --> 00:04:15,505 so I hope it will continue. 82 00:04:22,266 --> 00:04:25,426 (audience applauding) 83 00:04:28,866 --> 00:04:33,106 (tense thoughtful music continues) 84 00:04:40,508 --> 00:04:43,408 (tense thoughtful music continues) 85 00:04:43,508 --> 00:04:45,448 (flames whooshing) 86 00:04:45,548 --> 00:04:46,888 - When I signed with Gucci, 87 00:04:46,988 --> 00:04:48,848 I just continually just, like, 88 00:04:48,949 --> 00:04:51,569 pushed myself to get stronger, physically and mentally, 89 00:04:51,669 --> 00:04:53,669 and this is the outcome. 90 00:04:54,589 --> 00:04:58,829 (tense thoughtful music continues) 91 00:05:01,470 --> 00:05:04,990 (camera shutter clicking) 92 00:05:07,311 --> 00:05:09,611 - 10 minutes, then first looks. 93 00:05:09,711 --> 00:05:12,771 (people chattering) (gentle tense music) 94 00:05:12,871 --> 00:05:15,571 - [Bystander] Oh, gorgeous. Look at her. 95 00:05:15,672 --> 00:05:17,672 - Thank you. - Amazing. 96 00:05:18,552 --> 00:05:20,452 - I wanted really each one of these girls 97 00:05:20,552 --> 00:05:21,892 to look like candy, in a way. 98 00:05:21,992 --> 00:05:25,132 Something that was so beautiful, so tempting, 99 00:05:25,233 --> 00:05:29,053 you know, you really just wanted to just... (chomps teeth) 100 00:05:29,153 --> 00:05:33,893 (gentle tense music continues) (camera shutters whirring) 101 00:05:33,994 --> 00:05:37,214 Yellow and blue, and sugar pink and white, 102 00:05:37,314 --> 00:05:40,034 and things that really, you know, very candy colours. 103 00:05:41,515 --> 00:05:46,575 (audience cheering) (audience applauding) 104 00:05:46,675 --> 00:05:48,415 - The House of Gucci with Tom Ford 105 00:05:48,515 --> 00:05:50,215 is the winner in Milan for me at the moment. 106 00:05:50,316 --> 00:05:52,256 You cannot go wrong with Tom Ford. 107 00:05:52,356 --> 00:05:54,096 He is the buzzword, he's hot, 108 00:05:54,196 --> 00:05:56,256 he will be hot, he will continue to be hot, it is hot. 109 00:05:56,356 --> 00:05:57,936 The word hot is not appropriate. 110 00:05:58,036 --> 00:05:59,936 The word brilliant is appropriate. 111 00:06:00,037 --> 00:06:02,297 The word top is appropriate. 112 00:06:02,397 --> 00:06:05,117 He is the like the T Model Ford for Gucci. 113 00:06:07,157 --> 00:06:10,837 - Some of Tom's campaigns were the most controversial. 114 00:06:12,518 --> 00:06:14,498 - [Reporter] You shaved a G in a model's pubic hair. 115 00:06:14,598 --> 00:06:17,338 - I know, and I actually did shave the G 116 00:06:17,439 --> 00:06:19,059 in that girl's pubic hair myself. 117 00:06:19,159 --> 00:06:20,459 I wanted it exactly that way. 118 00:06:20,559 --> 00:06:22,819 I had to fill it in with an eyebrow pencil a little bit. 119 00:06:22,919 --> 00:06:25,819 - People were scandalised by this, but, you know, 120 00:06:25,920 --> 00:06:27,820 it's kind of the oldest trick in the book, right? 121 00:06:27,920 --> 00:06:31,600 Sex sells, and he was milking it, you know, to the max. 122 00:06:33,320 --> 00:06:36,300 (tense thoughtful music continues) 123 00:06:36,401 --> 00:06:38,401 - It wasn't porn. 124 00:06:38,921 --> 00:06:41,981 But it was just racy enough to titillate 125 00:06:42,081 --> 00:06:44,201 without being vulgar. 126 00:06:45,802 --> 00:06:49,862 - It was a commentary on where we were with branding. 127 00:06:49,962 --> 00:06:53,262 We had pushed branding to the absolute limit. 128 00:06:53,363 --> 00:06:54,503 Everything was branded. 129 00:06:54,603 --> 00:06:56,503 So why not, you know, 130 00:06:56,603 --> 00:06:58,903 a guy branding his girlfriend's public hair? 131 00:06:59,003 --> 00:07:02,843 (suspenseful dramatic music) 132 00:07:04,484 --> 00:07:08,814 - The power of icon, the emoji of its time. 133 00:07:09,925 --> 00:07:13,505 Logomania was part of the democratisation of fashion. 134 00:07:13,605 --> 00:07:14,745 You needed something 135 00:07:14,845 --> 00:07:17,945 that was instantly recognisable as what it was 136 00:07:18,046 --> 00:07:20,946 for the people that were buying into your ethos 137 00:07:21,046 --> 00:07:23,106 so that they had something that their friends 138 00:07:23,206 --> 00:07:25,606 would instantly be able to identify. 139 00:07:28,327 --> 00:07:33,327 - The frenzy for these logos, fuelled by celebrities. 140 00:07:35,248 --> 00:07:40,348 The billboards, the magazine ads, the commercials, 141 00:07:40,448 --> 00:07:45,448 the placement in movies, the logo-heavy marketing, 142 00:07:47,009 --> 00:07:50,149 switched the reason that everyone had purchased 143 00:07:50,249 --> 00:07:53,029 these products in the first place, 144 00:07:53,130 --> 00:07:58,130 from what they were, beautiful, hand-crafted, luxury items, 145 00:07:58,890 --> 00:08:01,590 rare, special, 146 00:08:01,691 --> 00:08:03,691 to that the represented, 147 00:08:04,371 --> 00:08:07,491 wealth, success, power. 148 00:08:08,771 --> 00:08:10,991 - That is the genius of the people 149 00:08:11,092 --> 00:08:13,892 who are at the head of these conglomerates. 150 00:08:15,332 --> 00:08:18,012 They are magicians, they magic desire. 151 00:08:27,453 --> 00:08:29,633 - You weren't buying a Louis Vuitton bag, 152 00:08:29,734 --> 00:08:33,014 you were buying the Louis Vuitton marketing message. 153 00:08:34,694 --> 00:08:38,364 And it has the logo on it, it's shouting the brand. 154 00:08:40,095 --> 00:08:42,075 - You'd pull out that lipstick and put it on, 155 00:08:42,175 --> 00:08:43,675 and there was a logo on the lipstick. 156 00:08:43,775 --> 00:08:46,435 So it looked like you could afford the dream, 157 00:08:46,536 --> 00:08:48,776 but you just had a little piece of the dream. 158 00:08:49,896 --> 00:08:53,156 You couldn't afford the couture gown, 159 00:08:53,256 --> 00:08:57,736 that had 100 hours of embroidery and cost $120,000, 160 00:08:59,377 --> 00:09:02,657 but you could get the lipstick for $35 in the duty-free. 161 00:09:04,058 --> 00:09:06,478 - It's easy for us to become consumed, in a sense, 162 00:09:06,578 --> 00:09:07,638 by materialism. 163 00:09:07,738 --> 00:09:08,998 Now, materialism is fine. 164 00:09:09,098 --> 00:09:10,358 We live in a material world. 165 00:09:10,458 --> 00:09:11,718 I'm not saying that beautiful things 166 00:09:11,819 --> 00:09:13,999 don't enhance our lives. 167 00:09:14,099 --> 00:09:16,359 But in our culture, we're never happy. 168 00:09:16,459 --> 00:09:18,399 It's, "When I get here I'm gonna be happy, 169 00:09:18,499 --> 00:09:20,279 "when I have those new shoes, when I go to that new party, 170 00:09:20,379 --> 00:09:22,559 "when I get that country house, when I get that new job." 171 00:09:22,660 --> 00:09:24,040 You know, we will never be fulfilled 172 00:09:24,140 --> 00:09:26,600 because this will continue until the day we die. 173 00:09:26,700 --> 00:09:27,600 - And you are to blame! 174 00:09:27,700 --> 00:09:30,240 - But, no, it's bigger than that. 175 00:09:30,341 --> 00:09:31,961 It is our entire culture. 176 00:09:32,061 --> 00:09:34,721 Of course, I was a part of it. We're all a part of it. 177 00:09:34,821 --> 00:09:39,821 (delicate upbeat music) (sewing machine rattles) 178 00:09:47,623 --> 00:09:49,043 - [Jeanne] Hi! 179 00:09:49,143 --> 00:09:52,043 How gorgeous have you become? 180 00:09:52,143 --> 00:09:54,563 Look at you! I can't stop looking at you. 181 00:09:54,663 --> 00:09:58,083 Oh, God! That's very fabulous, to see you like this. 182 00:09:58,184 --> 00:09:59,564 This new incarnation. 183 00:09:59,664 --> 00:10:01,284 Sort of the new and improved McQueen. 184 00:10:01,384 --> 00:10:03,164 - I had to become stronger myself 185 00:10:03,264 --> 00:10:07,334 and strong physically for Paris 186 00:10:07,425 --> 00:10:10,285 because I realised I was gonna show here for good, 187 00:10:10,385 --> 00:10:13,045 and I was gonna be competing with the big league. 188 00:10:13,145 --> 00:10:15,965 And mentally and physically, you have to be strong for this. 189 00:10:16,066 --> 00:10:19,666 (gentle thoughtful music) 190 00:10:21,946 --> 00:10:24,606 - At Gucci I think they gave him 191 00:10:24,707 --> 00:10:28,247 what he wasn't getting at LVMH. 192 00:10:28,347 --> 00:10:31,087 He got healthier and happier 193 00:10:31,188 --> 00:10:35,568 when he could focus back, entirely, 100% on his own brand. 194 00:10:35,668 --> 00:10:40,048 (audience cheering) (audience applauding) 195 00:10:40,149 --> 00:10:41,329 - Didn't he look great? 196 00:10:41,429 --> 00:10:42,569 I said, "I am so fed up" 197 00:10:42,669 --> 00:10:44,089 "with seeing these tracksuits and things. 198 00:10:44,189 --> 00:10:45,849 "Show us the tailoring in the show, 199 00:10:45,949 --> 00:10:48,369 "and let's see you looking sexy too." 200 00:10:48,470 --> 00:10:50,470 He's gone slightly Tom Ford. 201 00:10:52,310 --> 00:10:55,330 - Alexander McQueen really looked up to Tom Ford, 202 00:10:55,430 --> 00:10:59,810 and he idolised him as kind of the model of the designer 203 00:10:59,911 --> 00:11:02,071 and the man that he wanted to be. 204 00:11:03,111 --> 00:11:06,251 He would start dressing like him and acting like him, 205 00:11:06,352 --> 00:11:07,692 and eating like him. 206 00:11:07,792 --> 00:11:09,732 And so it was a way for him 207 00:11:09,832 --> 00:11:13,492 to kind of move himself into a different level, 208 00:11:13,592 --> 00:11:15,592 a different firmament. 209 00:11:16,153 --> 00:11:18,693 - He wanted more acknowledgment, 210 00:11:18,793 --> 00:11:22,193 and he got it from Tom and Mr. De Sole. 211 00:11:23,834 --> 00:11:25,574 - I know he adored his mother, 212 00:11:25,674 --> 00:11:29,894 and I would made a point, she was leaving Scotland, 213 00:11:29,994 --> 00:11:32,214 to send my driver to pick her up 214 00:11:32,314 --> 00:11:33,904 and take her to the fashion show, 215 00:11:33,995 --> 00:11:35,575 and invite her to the dinner, 216 00:11:35,675 --> 00:11:38,595 just to be attentive and show that I really care. 217 00:11:39,995 --> 00:11:43,595 (gentle thoughtful music) 218 00:11:47,796 --> 00:11:50,696 - It was time to renegotiate their contracts, 219 00:11:50,797 --> 00:11:52,577 and Dom and Tom did not wanna give up 220 00:11:52,677 --> 00:11:55,737 the power that they had earned 221 00:11:55,837 --> 00:11:58,817 by turning Gucci from a nearly bankrupt company 222 00:11:58,918 --> 00:12:02,178 into a global conglomerate. 223 00:12:02,278 --> 00:12:03,898 - [Reporter] There's been some rumours 224 00:12:03,998 --> 00:12:06,138 about you and Domenico. 225 00:12:06,238 --> 00:12:08,618 - You know, rumours are always rumours. 226 00:12:08,719 --> 00:12:10,379 It is true that both my 227 00:12:10,479 --> 00:12:13,379 and Domenico's contracts are up next year in 2004. 228 00:12:13,479 --> 00:12:15,379 Both of us have worked so hard 229 00:12:15,479 --> 00:12:17,539 over the last 10 years to build this company. 230 00:12:17,640 --> 00:12:21,020 We have an enormous emotional attachment to it. 231 00:12:21,120 --> 00:12:25,600 And I can't imagine leaving it, so those are just rumours. 232 00:12:26,801 --> 00:12:28,461 - Tom and I felt it was our company. 233 00:12:28,561 --> 00:12:30,861 In our mind, that's our company. 234 00:12:30,961 --> 00:12:32,101 Though we didn't own it, 235 00:12:32,201 --> 00:12:34,981 and we respect the fact that you had to generate success 236 00:12:35,082 --> 00:12:37,582 and dividends, et cetera, for the shareholders, 237 00:12:37,682 --> 00:12:39,682 but we owned the company. 238 00:13:01,245 --> 00:13:06,245 (audience applauding) (gentle somber music) 239 00:13:16,246 --> 00:13:18,986 - It was a very emotional moment, I remember. 240 00:13:19,087 --> 00:13:20,187 I never cried in my life, 241 00:13:20,287 --> 00:13:21,547 even when my parents died, I didn't cry. 242 00:13:21,647 --> 00:13:24,227 But I did cry telling the senior people 243 00:13:24,327 --> 00:13:26,187 of the company I was leaving. 244 00:13:26,287 --> 00:13:29,227 (audience applauding) 245 00:13:38,809 --> 00:13:41,669 (gentle somber music continues) 246 00:13:41,769 --> 00:13:45,009 (audience applauding) 247 00:13:54,611 --> 00:13:57,031 - You know, it's Monsieur Pinault's company, 248 00:13:57,131 --> 00:13:59,311 and obviously, there were differences, 249 00:13:59,411 --> 00:14:02,811 and we just have to all move on, as I'm sure Tom is. 250 00:14:08,172 --> 00:14:11,672 - I remember the press saying, "Gucci's dead. 251 00:14:11,773 --> 00:14:14,173 "Gucci without Tom Ford cannot be Gucci." 252 00:14:18,133 --> 00:14:22,113 I also remember thinking, "Maybe the word Gucci 253 00:14:22,214 --> 00:14:25,254 "is still more powerful than the word Tom Ford." 254 00:14:28,415 --> 00:14:32,075 - At the end of the day, because they had succeeded so well, 255 00:14:32,175 --> 00:14:35,735 the superstar was Gucci, not just Tom Ford. 256 00:14:37,216 --> 00:14:38,436 - I all of a sudden felt lost. 257 00:14:38,536 --> 00:14:40,316 I thought, "Well, what do I contribute to the world?" 258 00:14:40,416 --> 00:14:41,916 You know, "What am I doing? 259 00:14:42,016 --> 00:14:43,556 "Who am I? What is this?" 260 00:14:43,656 --> 00:14:46,396 Because I had worked so hard for so long 261 00:14:46,497 --> 00:14:49,117 and I didn't really realise how it would feel 262 00:14:49,217 --> 00:14:51,717 when I no longer had that platform or that voice. 263 00:14:51,817 --> 00:14:53,817 I felt quite lost. 264 00:14:56,498 --> 00:15:00,318 - He said his 40s the entire decade was an absolute waste of decade for him 265 00:15:00,418 --> 00:15:02,418 It completely threw him. 266 00:15:03,138 --> 00:15:05,138 Everything that he'd been doing 267 00:15:05,659 --> 00:15:07,959 once the cork was out of the bottle 268 00:15:08,059 --> 00:15:13,059 just exploded into his private life and swallowed him whole. 269 00:15:13,460 --> 00:15:16,880 (gentle thoughtful music) 270 00:15:16,980 --> 00:15:19,100 - Alexander McQueen was bereft. 271 00:15:22,101 --> 00:15:23,561 He had lost his mentor 272 00:15:23,661 --> 00:15:27,881 and there was a new era in place at Gucci 273 00:15:27,981 --> 00:15:30,741 where the brand was going to be dominant. 274 00:15:35,862 --> 00:15:39,642 - The Gucci Group sent in all little men in black suits 275 00:15:39,743 --> 00:15:42,163 and black ties and white shirts, 276 00:15:42,263 --> 00:15:44,883 coming in and watching us all work 277 00:15:44,983 --> 00:15:47,423 and trying to dictate things to us. 278 00:15:48,984 --> 00:15:52,284 - He hated the idea that there was a group called Gucci 279 00:15:52,384 --> 00:15:55,844 that could tell him, "No, you won't have 280 00:15:55,944 --> 00:15:57,534 "this budget or that budget. 281 00:15:57,625 --> 00:15:59,705 "Yes, you can do this but not that." 282 00:16:00,785 --> 00:16:04,265 (tense thoughtful music) 283 00:16:08,426 --> 00:16:11,206 - [Alexander] It can be really lonely. 284 00:16:11,306 --> 00:16:16,446 And I think there's more to life than fashion 285 00:16:16,547 --> 00:16:18,647 and I don't wanna be stuck in that bubble 286 00:16:18,747 --> 00:16:19,847 of this is what I do. 287 00:16:19,947 --> 00:16:21,607 Because everyone in the office, 288 00:16:21,707 --> 00:16:24,007 they go home and they can shut off, 289 00:16:24,108 --> 00:16:26,788 but I'm still Alexander McQueen after I shut the door. 290 00:16:32,469 --> 00:16:35,649 - You have these incredibly creative people, 291 00:16:35,749 --> 00:16:37,649 you know, like Galliano and McQueen, 292 00:16:37,749 --> 00:16:40,969 who had staged these kind of very theatrical shows 293 00:16:41,070 --> 00:16:43,570 that felt like theatre to perform in, 294 00:16:43,670 --> 00:16:48,310 inside an industry that is so demanding of them. 295 00:16:53,391 --> 00:16:55,611 You would never take an artist 296 00:16:55,711 --> 00:16:58,771 and force them to make 14 shows in a year, 297 00:16:58,872 --> 00:17:01,132 and expect all those shows to be brilliant, 298 00:17:01,232 --> 00:17:03,972 and expect them to kind of have the creative inspiration 299 00:17:04,072 --> 00:17:06,972 and juice to just keep producing, almost like a machine. 300 00:17:07,073 --> 00:17:09,773 (audience applauding) 301 00:17:09,873 --> 00:17:13,713 - [John] Along with all the successes came more collections. 302 00:17:16,034 --> 00:17:21,034 At that moment, I was producing 32 collections a year 303 00:17:21,594 --> 00:17:24,384 between the House of Galliano and the House of Dior, 304 00:17:24,475 --> 00:17:27,015 and each collection would comprise 305 00:17:27,115 --> 00:17:29,115 of up to 1,000 pieces. 306 00:17:30,795 --> 00:17:33,035 The drinking did creep up on me. 307 00:17:34,556 --> 00:17:38,696 - He started to take longer and longer and longer 308 00:17:38,796 --> 00:17:43,136 to get into a state where he was remotely presentable 309 00:17:43,237 --> 00:17:46,617 to anyone else, 'cause he was so out of it. 310 00:17:46,717 --> 00:17:47,857 - Do you want me to stop? 311 00:17:47,957 --> 00:17:48,897 - [Reporter] No, I don't care. 312 00:17:48,997 --> 00:17:52,537 It's for you. It's your image. (laughs) 313 00:17:52,638 --> 00:17:56,778 - It's tarnished, you can't change it! (laughing) 314 00:17:56,878 --> 00:17:58,978 After I had my last toboggan ride 315 00:17:59,079 --> 00:18:01,259 down the great Chinese Wall, 316 00:18:01,359 --> 00:18:05,299 and there I was and arrived at McDonald's. 317 00:18:05,399 --> 00:18:08,659 I mean, there you go, that was the collection. (laughing) 318 00:18:08,760 --> 00:18:11,980 Joe DiMaggio and where was Marilyn? 319 00:18:12,080 --> 00:18:14,080 In rubber. 320 00:18:15,720 --> 00:18:18,060 - [Reporter] Would you say that it takes a lot of courage 321 00:18:18,161 --> 00:18:21,501 to give an artist such a free artistic reign? 322 00:18:21,601 --> 00:18:24,701 - Yes, it's courage but also we have some reward, huh? 323 00:18:24,801 --> 00:18:27,541 Because sales of Christian Dior since he arrived 324 00:18:27,642 --> 00:18:30,422 have been multiplied by six. 325 00:18:30,522 --> 00:18:33,182 So it's quite good, don't you think? 326 00:18:33,282 --> 00:18:34,782 (suspenseful music) 327 00:18:34,883 --> 00:18:37,383 - There was a total fear of Bernard Arnault 328 00:18:37,483 --> 00:18:40,003 and anyone putting a foot wrong in front of him. 329 00:18:42,123 --> 00:18:43,423 You know, maybe John was scared 330 00:18:43,524 --> 00:18:45,784 that this man could just erase 331 00:18:45,884 --> 00:18:47,344 all the success that he's had. 332 00:18:47,444 --> 00:18:48,904 And he's at the height of his career, 333 00:18:49,004 --> 00:18:51,004 it's just so far to fall. 334 00:18:54,405 --> 00:18:55,625 - [Jeanne] When we think of John 335 00:18:55,725 --> 00:18:57,225 and the incredible things that he's done 336 00:18:57,325 --> 00:18:58,905 for the image of the House of Dior, 337 00:18:59,005 --> 00:19:01,265 it seems to us that he must have carte blanche 338 00:19:01,366 --> 00:19:03,146 as a designer, artistically. 339 00:19:03,246 --> 00:19:05,226 - Absolutely, yes. Absolutely carte blanche. 340 00:19:05,326 --> 00:19:07,266 - [Jeanne] So you let him run with the ball 341 00:19:07,366 --> 00:19:08,066 in any direction? 342 00:19:08,166 --> 00:19:11,346 - As long as the business is going how it is going. 343 00:19:11,447 --> 00:19:14,547 The business is booming, so, yes, carte blanche. 344 00:19:14,647 --> 00:19:15,867 (audience cheering) 345 00:19:15,967 --> 00:19:18,227 - [Bystander] Go, Johnny, go! 346 00:19:18,328 --> 00:19:20,148 Mind your ego! 347 00:19:20,248 --> 00:19:24,568 - His image became more and more extravagant, 348 00:19:26,969 --> 00:19:30,749 to the point where, often, he would come out, 349 00:19:30,849 --> 00:19:34,109 after his shows, with a full look. 350 00:19:34,209 --> 00:19:38,709 (audience applauding) (audience cheering) 351 00:19:38,810 --> 00:19:40,030 - [John] If you're gonna do something 352 00:19:40,130 --> 00:19:42,310 I just think you have to go all out for it, 353 00:19:42,410 --> 00:19:43,910 otherwise just don't bother. 354 00:19:44,010 --> 00:19:44,750 Do you know what I mean? 355 00:19:44,851 --> 00:19:47,191 It's something that, if you believe in something, 356 00:19:47,291 --> 00:19:49,291 you have to do it to the end. 357 00:19:50,611 --> 00:19:54,211 (climatic dramatic music) 358 00:19:58,172 --> 00:19:59,992 (camera shutter clicks) 359 00:20:00,092 --> 00:20:02,192 - How do you deal with pressure, and stress, 360 00:20:02,293 --> 00:20:03,193 and all that, before a show? 361 00:20:03,293 --> 00:20:05,153 Or do you get stressed and feel under pressure? 362 00:20:05,253 --> 00:20:07,033 - I take Calgon baths. 363 00:20:07,133 --> 00:20:08,953 No, I'm joking. It was a joke. 364 00:20:09,053 --> 00:20:10,713 (both laughing) 365 00:20:10,813 --> 00:20:12,313 I don't deal with pressure too well. 366 00:20:12,414 --> 00:20:16,514 I go off my diet, I smoke twice as many cigarettes, 367 00:20:16,614 --> 00:20:20,004 and I sometimes get a little angry or rude. 368 00:20:20,095 --> 00:20:23,635 But I don't think I deal with it so well. 369 00:20:23,735 --> 00:20:27,215 (tense suspenseful music) 370 00:20:28,255 --> 00:20:31,175 (crowd chattering) 371 00:20:37,937 --> 00:20:39,997 - He was a little bit. 372 00:20:40,097 --> 00:20:43,817 Marc was getting a little bit out of control there. 373 00:20:45,777 --> 00:20:47,837 In hindsight, you see the psychology twist, 374 00:20:47,938 --> 00:20:51,398 and you see the shows becoming more and more, 375 00:20:51,498 --> 00:20:55,478 not frantic, but confrontational. 376 00:20:55,579 --> 00:21:00,579 (crowd booing) (crowd hissing) 377 00:21:06,940 --> 00:21:10,880 It was a fairly major moment, I think, for Marc, 378 00:21:10,980 --> 00:21:12,720 for his show to run two hours late 379 00:21:12,821 --> 00:21:15,321 and to have that audience waiting for it, 380 00:21:15,421 --> 00:21:18,921 people like Catherine Deneuve and Kanye West, 381 00:21:19,021 --> 00:21:20,641 and Sophia Coppola. 382 00:21:20,741 --> 00:21:23,301 (crowd chants) 383 00:21:25,102 --> 00:21:27,682 There was a little bit of a "fuck you" quality to it, 384 00:21:27,782 --> 00:21:29,782 I thought. 385 00:21:30,783 --> 00:21:32,603 Mr. Arnault, after sitting there 386 00:21:32,703 --> 00:21:37,563 for really a long, long time, he pecks at his phone, 387 00:21:37,663 --> 00:21:40,283 and then seconds later the lights come down 388 00:21:40,384 --> 00:21:41,964 and the show starts. 389 00:21:42,064 --> 00:21:45,604 (audience applauding) (audience yelling) 390 00:21:45,704 --> 00:21:48,974 (audience cheering) 391 00:21:49,065 --> 00:21:53,005 (tense suspenseful music continues) 392 00:21:53,105 --> 00:21:54,765 - I think when a designer 393 00:21:54,865 --> 00:21:59,865 expects his audience to wait two hours, 394 00:22:01,146 --> 00:22:05,706 unacceptable, ill-mannered, and totally arrogant. 395 00:22:06,547 --> 00:22:09,467 (audience booing) 396 00:22:11,907 --> 00:22:14,127 - All these people who need to rush home to their family, 397 00:22:14,228 --> 00:22:15,888 I say they shouldn't come to fashion shows. 398 00:22:15,988 --> 00:22:18,688 They should retire and stay home. Fuck them. 399 00:22:18,788 --> 00:22:21,548 I'm not afraid of anything. I'm shameless and fearless. 400 00:22:22,829 --> 00:22:23,729 - [Tim] I think what fashion 401 00:22:23,829 --> 00:22:25,689 was seeing across the board at this point 402 00:22:25,789 --> 00:22:29,809 is its wunderkinder acting up. 403 00:22:29,909 --> 00:22:32,969 - [Marc] The only opinion that matters about me is my own, 404 00:22:33,070 --> 00:22:33,930 and that's it. 405 00:22:34,030 --> 00:22:36,710 - They'd been so indulged for so long 406 00:22:37,630 --> 00:22:40,750 that everything had become a little bit screwy. 407 00:22:43,031 --> 00:22:45,931 (tense suspenseful music) 408 00:22:46,031 --> 00:22:49,111 You did feel a reckoning coming. 409 00:22:50,312 --> 00:22:52,992 Fashion was kind of capturing something in the air. 410 00:22:55,952 --> 00:23:00,572 (tense suspenseful music continues) 411 00:23:18,355 --> 00:23:21,895 (gentle delicate music) 412 00:23:21,995 --> 00:23:24,855 - Stephen Robinson was John's right-hand man. 413 00:23:24,956 --> 00:23:27,096 That's how we knew him in the business, 414 00:23:27,196 --> 00:23:28,776 John's right-hand man. 415 00:23:28,876 --> 00:23:31,336 John was the one who would give you a smile 416 00:23:31,436 --> 00:23:33,656 and Stephen was the one that did not. 417 00:23:33,757 --> 00:23:37,637 It was this. And so you never knew if he liked you or not. 418 00:23:40,077 --> 00:23:41,457 - [John] Stephen was there right at the beginning, 419 00:23:41,557 --> 00:23:44,777 I mean, he came as a student placement, counting buttons, 420 00:23:44,878 --> 00:23:46,898 and then worked his way through, 421 00:23:46,998 --> 00:23:49,198 and then became my right-hand man. 422 00:23:52,879 --> 00:23:55,799 (group chattering) 423 00:23:58,199 --> 00:24:00,539 (models cheering) 424 00:24:00,640 --> 00:24:03,180 (audience chattering) 425 00:24:03,280 --> 00:24:06,120 (models cheering) 426 00:24:12,001 --> 00:24:13,741 (group applauding) 427 00:24:13,841 --> 00:24:15,621 Stephen and I started this adventure 428 00:24:15,721 --> 00:24:19,761 when things weren't working out, and Stephen believed in me. 429 00:24:20,962 --> 00:24:22,622 And together, we left London. 430 00:24:22,722 --> 00:24:23,942 Didn't have any money. 431 00:24:24,042 --> 00:24:25,742 I don't how we got to Paris, we did. 432 00:24:25,843 --> 00:24:27,263 And we slept on friends' floors. 433 00:24:27,363 --> 00:24:30,183 And as long as I could see the moonlight I was happy. 434 00:24:30,283 --> 00:24:33,983 - Stephen Robinson became a wall around John, right? 435 00:24:34,083 --> 00:24:37,543 So everything had to pass through Stephen to get to John. 436 00:24:37,644 --> 00:24:40,444 So John really lost contact with the outside world. 437 00:24:43,365 --> 00:24:46,645 (gentle ambient music) 438 00:24:48,085 --> 00:24:50,125 - Stephen took a lot of cocaine. 439 00:24:52,366 --> 00:24:55,606 So, one day, he went home for a vacation, 440 00:24:56,646 --> 00:25:00,346 he just, like, hoovered, hoovered up 441 00:25:00,446 --> 00:25:02,106 massive amounts of cocaine 442 00:25:02,207 --> 00:25:05,487 in a very short time by himself at home, 443 00:25:07,327 --> 00:25:11,007 and he suffered a massive heart attack and died. 444 00:25:13,048 --> 00:25:16,488 John was destroyed. 445 00:25:17,648 --> 00:25:20,888 (gentle somber music) 446 00:25:26,889 --> 00:25:30,109 - That kind of loss must have been devastating for him 447 00:25:30,210 --> 00:25:35,210 and it just must have been really difficult to process. 448 00:25:41,131 --> 00:25:45,331 The questions I would here people go, "Will he be okay? 449 00:25:48,212 --> 00:25:50,212 "Will he be able to design? 450 00:25:54,013 --> 00:25:55,753 - [Jeanne] How hard is it going on now 451 00:25:55,853 --> 00:25:57,853 without Stephen around? 452 00:25:59,813 --> 00:26:02,533 - Very. You know... 453 00:26:03,574 --> 00:26:06,514 Yeah, it's very, very hard. 454 00:26:06,614 --> 00:26:08,754 - I mean, we all saw the transition happening, 455 00:26:08,854 --> 00:26:13,864 and it was never nice to see him 456 00:26:15,135 --> 00:26:17,875 in this state of, you know, pain. 457 00:26:17,975 --> 00:26:19,675 Obviously, there was pain there. 458 00:26:19,775 --> 00:26:21,895 He lost someone that meant a lot to him. 459 00:26:25,496 --> 00:26:27,516 - I just remember Anna telling me, 460 00:26:27,616 --> 00:26:30,436 "I have a meeting with Mr. Arnault, 461 00:26:30,537 --> 00:26:34,197 "and he's basically asked me to come in 462 00:26:34,297 --> 00:26:38,697 "and talk to John about what he's doing." 463 00:26:40,538 --> 00:26:44,278 I just had this impression that any moment 464 00:26:44,378 --> 00:26:47,118 John might have gone off the rails. 465 00:26:47,219 --> 00:26:50,919 But rather than trying to control him internally, 466 00:26:51,019 --> 00:26:54,779 they would call Anna, and Anna would do whatever she does. 467 00:26:56,860 --> 00:27:00,380 (gentle thoughtful music) 468 00:27:07,461 --> 00:27:11,821 (gentle thoughtful music continues) 469 00:27:20,102 --> 00:27:21,002 - [Alexander] This world I live in, 470 00:27:21,102 --> 00:27:22,922 this fashion world I live in, 471 00:27:23,023 --> 00:27:25,843 it's so unrelated to what's going on around the world. 472 00:27:25,943 --> 00:27:27,883 So what I try to do is take parts of the world 473 00:27:27,983 --> 00:27:30,223 people don't wanna see and bring it to them. 474 00:27:33,144 --> 00:27:34,844 - When we walked in the auditorium 475 00:27:34,944 --> 00:27:37,824 was lit in this hellish red. 476 00:27:39,985 --> 00:27:44,985 Huge pile of rubbish from the detritus of his old shows. 477 00:27:46,225 --> 00:27:51,365 So it was a comment on waste, you could look at it that way. 478 00:27:51,466 --> 00:27:55,566 It was a comment on environmental degradation. 479 00:27:55,666 --> 00:27:58,786 (suspenseful music) 480 00:27:59,987 --> 00:28:02,327 - [Alexander] By nature, I'm a very melancholy person, 481 00:28:02,427 --> 00:28:06,487 so I like to see the good and also the bad in things 482 00:28:06,588 --> 00:28:08,588 because life is like that. 483 00:28:10,028 --> 00:28:13,128 I don't like to put like a smokescreen 484 00:28:13,228 --> 00:28:16,208 over everything you do to make the world a prettier place, 485 00:28:16,309 --> 00:28:18,309 because it's not. 486 00:28:22,549 --> 00:28:24,849 (waves whooshing) 487 00:28:24,950 --> 00:28:26,890 - [Reporter] Fashion is the second most 488 00:28:26,990 --> 00:28:28,810 polluting industry in the world, 489 00:28:28,910 --> 00:28:31,530 and people are buying massively more 490 00:28:31,630 --> 00:28:33,770 than they did 15 years ago. 491 00:28:33,871 --> 00:28:37,331 - Obviously, we're very aware, as other industries are, 492 00:28:37,431 --> 00:28:39,371 that we have been at fault, 493 00:28:39,471 --> 00:28:43,891 and what we can do in the relatively short amount of time 494 00:28:43,992 --> 00:28:45,852 we have to course correct. 495 00:28:45,952 --> 00:28:47,812 - [Reporter] So it's an urgency for you? 496 00:28:47,912 --> 00:28:50,832 - [Anna] It's an urgency for everybody within the industry. 497 00:28:52,673 --> 00:28:54,693 - I feel like he was often putting the fashion world 498 00:28:54,793 --> 00:28:57,873 in an uncomfortable position to confront itself. 499 00:29:00,394 --> 00:29:03,174 The fact that so much of fashion nowadays 500 00:29:03,274 --> 00:29:04,854 is thrown away, is disposable. 501 00:29:04,954 --> 00:29:05,814 3/4, they think, 502 00:29:05,914 --> 00:29:09,784 of the 80 to 100 billion garments made every year. 503 00:29:09,875 --> 00:29:12,135 So literally tens of billions of garments 504 00:29:12,235 --> 00:29:14,235 end up in landfill. 505 00:29:16,996 --> 00:29:19,936 Fast fashion is just a disposable attitude to fashion. 506 00:29:20,036 --> 00:29:22,096 It's an idea that fashion should be cheap 507 00:29:22,196 --> 00:29:24,556 and shouldn't last a long time. 508 00:29:26,157 --> 00:29:27,617 We should be buying and buying and buying a lot 509 00:29:27,717 --> 00:29:29,177 and that's why it's fast, right? 510 00:29:29,277 --> 00:29:31,557 Fast production, fast consumption, fast waste. 511 00:29:33,037 --> 00:29:35,297 - What the Pinault and the Arnault of the world 512 00:29:35,398 --> 00:29:37,858 created was desirability. 513 00:29:37,958 --> 00:29:40,618 By becoming so big and so powerful, 514 00:29:40,718 --> 00:29:43,298 they obtain more visibilities. 515 00:29:43,399 --> 00:29:45,259 And all the stores around the world 516 00:29:45,359 --> 00:29:49,219 and all those ads in the magazines around the world, 517 00:29:49,319 --> 00:29:52,599 created aspiration and desirability. 518 00:29:54,800 --> 00:29:57,800 The real problem is the level of consumption 519 00:29:58,840 --> 00:30:01,080 and that it's got out of control. 520 00:30:03,401 --> 00:30:08,401 If a pair of jeans costs less than a coffee, 521 00:30:09,682 --> 00:30:13,862 and so it's less costly to throw it away than to wash it, 522 00:30:13,962 --> 00:30:16,682 it's obviously not okay. 523 00:30:18,723 --> 00:30:20,883 But also, it's the human cost. 524 00:30:21,723 --> 00:30:22,943 It's the human right. 525 00:30:23,043 --> 00:30:24,583 - Six people are now under arrest 526 00:30:24,683 --> 00:30:26,103 in Bangladesh in connection 527 00:30:26,204 --> 00:30:28,144 with a building collapse on Wednesday 528 00:30:28,244 --> 00:30:30,944 that killed hundreds of garment workers. 529 00:30:31,044 --> 00:30:32,024 - [Reporter] On Tuesday, 530 00:30:32,124 --> 00:30:33,984 police inspected cracks in the building 531 00:30:34,084 --> 00:30:36,274 which housed five clothing manufacturers. 532 00:30:36,365 --> 00:30:39,365 Survivors say their bosses told them to keep working. 533 00:30:40,245 --> 00:30:43,225 - Most consumers, even though they claim that they care, 534 00:30:43,325 --> 00:30:45,545 it's something that is done over there. 535 00:30:45,646 --> 00:30:46,386 They never see it. 536 00:30:46,486 --> 00:30:49,466 If you ever go into a factory where sneakers are made 537 00:30:49,566 --> 00:30:51,546 and you see and smell the gasses 538 00:30:51,646 --> 00:30:53,866 that they emit from all the rubber 539 00:30:53,967 --> 00:30:56,267 and different machines they use to make a sneaker, 540 00:30:56,367 --> 00:30:58,547 you would never wear another pair of sneakers again. 541 00:31:00,527 --> 00:31:01,347 - [Reporter] Western retailers 542 00:31:01,448 --> 00:31:03,188 have openly criticised the factories 543 00:31:03,288 --> 00:31:06,928 for unsafe working conditions but continue to place orders. 544 00:31:09,088 --> 00:31:12,908 - In this last 30 years of growth of the luxury industry, 545 00:31:13,009 --> 00:31:14,829 it has now sacrificed humanity 546 00:31:14,929 --> 00:31:18,209 and the planet for the sake of profit. 547 00:31:19,690 --> 00:31:21,790 McQueen was disgusted by this, 548 00:31:21,890 --> 00:31:24,510 and he felt like he needed to make a statement about it. 549 00:31:24,610 --> 00:31:29,610 So he steps back and he just looks at how all this fashion, 550 00:31:29,971 --> 00:31:34,831 consumption, production, money, glitz, glamor, advertising, 551 00:31:34,931 --> 00:31:37,871 magazines, fashion shoots, stores, stores, stores, 552 00:31:37,972 --> 00:31:39,592 all this fits into the bigger picture 553 00:31:39,692 --> 00:31:41,892 that is the world today. 554 00:31:45,493 --> 00:31:48,913 - The creation was coming from inside his heart. 555 00:31:49,013 --> 00:31:54,013 So, probably, he visit some very sensitive areas. 556 00:31:55,374 --> 00:32:00,374 For sure, you get something ultra-emotional, for sure, 557 00:32:01,214 --> 00:32:03,264 and you get something quite unique. 558 00:32:06,015 --> 00:32:08,775 - What makes a great fashion designer? 559 00:32:10,575 --> 00:32:14,855 Someone with tremendous endurance and focus. 560 00:32:16,456 --> 00:32:20,116 You've gotta be very careful. You've gotta protect yourself. 561 00:32:20,217 --> 00:32:25,217 You've got to love what's at the core of the industry 562 00:32:25,577 --> 00:32:27,577 or it will kill you. 563 00:32:28,457 --> 00:32:31,917 And even then, it'll kill you. 564 00:32:32,018 --> 00:32:37,018 (audience applauding) (audience cheering) 565 00:32:45,059 --> 00:32:50,079 - You became a product with a huge pressure above your head 566 00:32:50,180 --> 00:32:55,180 from people expecting things from you, lot of collections. 567 00:32:55,781 --> 00:32:59,401 You sign paper, it's too late it's been signed, 568 00:32:59,501 --> 00:33:01,241 you are agreed. 569 00:33:01,341 --> 00:33:04,501 It's too late, you're trapped. 570 00:33:05,422 --> 00:33:10,182 And for a wild wolf like him, 571 00:33:11,062 --> 00:33:13,062 get trapped means death. 572 00:33:13,903 --> 00:33:18,363 (gentle somber music) (camera shutters whirring) 573 00:33:18,463 --> 00:33:19,883 (police radio chattering) 574 00:33:19,983 --> 00:33:20,843 - [Reporter] Alexander McQueen, 575 00:33:20,943 --> 00:33:22,123 the darling of British fashion, 576 00:33:22,224 --> 00:33:25,484 has been found dead after, apparently, committing suicide. 577 00:33:25,584 --> 00:33:26,964 Paramedics were called 578 00:33:27,064 --> 00:33:28,844 to the designer's London home this morning, 579 00:33:28,944 --> 00:33:31,154 but he was pronounced dead at the scene. 580 00:33:35,825 --> 00:33:39,905 - I think that he had had enough. 581 00:33:42,306 --> 00:33:45,086 And then his mother died, 582 00:33:45,186 --> 00:33:47,906 and I think it was all just enough. 583 00:33:50,387 --> 00:33:53,287 - The last time I saw him 584 00:33:53,387 --> 00:33:54,967 he just seemed in a really good mood that day, 585 00:33:55,067 --> 00:33:57,067 and that was the day before. 586 00:33:58,268 --> 00:34:02,408 And up until then, he was like a shadow of himself. 587 00:34:02,508 --> 00:34:04,408 And on that day, he just seemed like 588 00:34:04,508 --> 00:34:06,668 everything had been lifted for some reason. 589 00:34:08,149 --> 00:34:11,169 Maybe it was just the thought that, you know, 590 00:34:11,269 --> 00:34:13,269 it'll all be over soon. 591 00:34:15,630 --> 00:34:19,170 (camera shutters whirring) 592 00:34:19,270 --> 00:34:22,070 - I understood that loneliness, 593 00:34:25,711 --> 00:34:27,711 that pain. 594 00:34:29,671 --> 00:34:31,011 We're in such perfection, 595 00:34:31,111 --> 00:34:33,971 we're setting that bar impossibly high. 596 00:34:34,072 --> 00:34:35,292 We don't understand why we're doing it, 597 00:34:35,392 --> 00:34:37,132 and people say, "Wow, how are you gonna top that?" 598 00:34:37,232 --> 00:34:39,812 And we're like, "Yeah, we're going to. Don't worry. 599 00:34:39,912 --> 00:34:43,072 "That's what makes us wake up in the morning." 600 00:34:44,073 --> 00:34:46,073 I was very sad. 601 00:34:48,673 --> 00:34:52,273 (gentle orchestral music) 602 00:34:55,114 --> 00:35:00,044 - I think Galliano is really the incarnation of Dior today. 603 00:35:02,795 --> 00:35:03,895 And he's the reason why 604 00:35:03,995 --> 00:35:06,675 it fits so well with the House of Dior. 605 00:35:11,076 --> 00:35:13,936 - The way I look is usually the end of the creative process 606 00:35:14,036 --> 00:35:15,656 because I live it. 607 00:35:15,756 --> 00:35:17,096 I believe it. I become it. 608 00:35:17,197 --> 00:35:19,577 I'm drawn by candlelight. 609 00:35:19,677 --> 00:35:21,017 There's a narrative, 610 00:35:21,117 --> 00:35:24,177 the models are my silent movie actresses, 611 00:35:24,277 --> 00:35:25,977 the script is their clothes. 612 00:35:26,078 --> 00:35:27,178 - [Reporter] And do you think it's important 613 00:35:27,278 --> 00:35:29,678 for a brand like this to have such a showman? 614 00:35:31,038 --> 00:35:36,038 - I think the key of success, in a brand so famous as Dior, 615 00:35:37,599 --> 00:35:42,599 it's key to such level of creativity and inventiveness, yes. 616 00:35:43,280 --> 00:35:46,620 (majestic music) 617 00:35:46,720 --> 00:35:48,800 - [John] Sometimes I was acting like God. 618 00:35:51,361 --> 00:35:54,721 I was a fully functioning addict. 619 00:35:56,121 --> 00:36:00,021 It started cyclically after each collection, 620 00:36:00,122 --> 00:36:03,962 after each creative high, there'd be this crash. 621 00:36:04,962 --> 00:36:06,422 But, of course, with the increase in collections, 622 00:36:06,522 --> 00:36:08,662 that cycle became faster and faster and faster 623 00:36:08,763 --> 00:36:11,283 where there was like a collection every four weeks. 624 00:36:14,283 --> 00:36:18,543 - You're on such a high and everything is such a fast pace. 625 00:36:18,644 --> 00:36:20,544 Remember all these creative minds 626 00:36:20,644 --> 00:36:22,224 are coming together to create something. 627 00:36:22,324 --> 00:36:25,024 The dress has taken two to three months 628 00:36:25,124 --> 00:36:27,434 or maybe sometimes longer just to create. 629 00:36:27,525 --> 00:36:31,825 For a 20-minute show, I mean, that adrenaline is just like, 630 00:36:31,925 --> 00:36:34,025 it goes and it goes and it goes and it goes, 631 00:36:34,125 --> 00:36:36,125 and then Fashion Week is over with. 632 00:36:37,446 --> 00:36:39,846 And then, you go through the blues afterwards. 633 00:36:41,366 --> 00:36:44,126 It becomes very gloomy, actually. 634 00:36:47,447 --> 00:36:49,587 - [John] It was getting worse and worse 635 00:36:49,687 --> 00:36:53,047 and I was mixing alcohol with benzos. 636 00:36:55,408 --> 00:36:56,988 By then I was a slave to alcohol. 637 00:36:57,088 --> 00:36:58,828 Then I would take the Valium to stop the shaking 638 00:36:58,928 --> 00:37:00,428 so I could do the fittings. 639 00:37:00,528 --> 00:37:03,048 And then the sleeping pills so that I could sleep. 640 00:37:06,889 --> 00:37:08,889 My life became unmanageable. 641 00:37:12,290 --> 00:37:17,250 - We have a situation where John has a problem, 642 00:37:18,290 --> 00:37:22,410 alcohol, I suggest, but nothing I being done about it. 643 00:37:23,251 --> 00:37:25,251 He needed looking after. 644 00:37:26,571 --> 00:37:28,571 He was crying for help. 645 00:37:30,772 --> 00:37:34,892 - When designers start to misbehave 646 00:37:36,372 --> 00:37:40,232 to the point where both sides of the relationship 647 00:37:40,333 --> 00:37:42,333 are getting a little... 648 00:37:43,133 --> 00:37:45,033 Maybe the designers not getting what he wants 649 00:37:45,133 --> 00:37:46,473 and certainly, the businessmen 650 00:37:46,574 --> 00:37:50,454 are a little tired of the whole situation too. 651 00:37:51,454 --> 00:37:54,344 Sometimes letting things fizzle out 652 00:37:55,535 --> 00:37:57,855 in the most unexpected ways 653 00:37:58,975 --> 00:38:03,415 might be a blessing in disguise for some people. 654 00:38:06,536 --> 00:38:09,836 Look what happened to John Galliano at Dior. 655 00:38:09,936 --> 00:38:12,076 - [Bystander] Ah, yeah. Yeah, too much. 656 00:38:12,177 --> 00:38:14,177 - Could it have been avoided? 657 00:38:15,457 --> 00:38:17,817 I think so, I do. 658 00:38:19,017 --> 00:38:23,957 - He had rung me, saying that he was really frightened. 659 00:38:24,058 --> 00:38:27,898 He was being asked to work so hard. 660 00:38:29,619 --> 00:38:33,059 He said, "Help me, Amanda." 661 00:38:36,379 --> 00:38:37,919 - Only beautiful people. 662 00:39:00,542 --> 00:39:02,722 - [Customer] Awful. 663 00:39:02,822 --> 00:39:05,982 (tense somber music) 664 00:39:07,143 --> 00:39:08,723 - [Reporter] On Thursday evening John Galliano 665 00:39:08,823 --> 00:39:10,923 was arrested for the suspected verbal abuse 666 00:39:11,023 --> 00:39:12,203 of a female customer. 667 00:39:12,303 --> 00:39:14,323 - [Reporter] The British fashion designer John Galliano 668 00:39:14,424 --> 00:39:16,524 has been sacked by his employers, Dior. 669 00:39:16,624 --> 00:39:19,244 (camera shutters whirring) (reporters clamouring) 670 00:39:33,146 --> 00:39:34,766 (gentle tense music) 671 00:39:34,866 --> 00:39:36,086 (camera shutters whirring) 672 00:39:51,948 --> 00:39:55,848 (tennis ball clattering) 673 00:39:55,948 --> 00:39:59,188 (gentle ambient music) 674 00:40:00,789 --> 00:40:02,489 - What happened to the four designers, 675 00:40:02,589 --> 00:40:07,589 like Tom Ford, John Galliano, Lee McQueen, and Marc Jacobs, 676 00:40:08,350 --> 00:40:10,250 is an incredible coda. 677 00:40:10,350 --> 00:40:12,690 There is the beginning, the middle, and an end, 678 00:40:12,790 --> 00:40:17,470 and it's so dramatic that each of those ends is dramatic. 679 00:40:18,911 --> 00:40:23,571 Tom deposed, Lee dead, John career suicide, 680 00:40:23,672 --> 00:40:28,492 and Marc in a kind of limbo. 681 00:40:28,592 --> 00:40:31,232 (clock ticking) 682 00:40:32,513 --> 00:40:35,613 (clock bell gonging) 683 00:40:35,713 --> 00:40:38,493 (water fountain whooshing) 684 00:40:38,593 --> 00:40:41,453 - We all dress to show the world 685 00:40:41,554 --> 00:40:42,574 what we want them to see 686 00:40:42,674 --> 00:40:44,974 and the knowing demi-monde of Paris 687 00:40:45,074 --> 00:40:47,334 has always been coolly dressed in black. 688 00:40:47,434 --> 00:40:49,014 So when we tried to think about 689 00:40:49,114 --> 00:40:50,504 what we gonna do for the set, 690 00:40:50,595 --> 00:40:53,615 I just said, "Let's use bits of the sets from the past 691 00:40:53,715 --> 00:40:55,715 "and just make them black." 692 00:40:57,115 --> 00:40:59,635 I mean, you know, just all black. 693 00:41:00,916 --> 00:41:05,916 (gentle pensive music) (water fountain whooshing) 694 00:41:13,877 --> 00:41:17,957 (gentle pensive music continues) 695 00:41:20,518 --> 00:41:22,518 - It was probably 696 00:41:23,078 --> 00:41:25,858 one of the most difficult things to achieve 697 00:41:25,959 --> 00:41:27,959 that I have ever done. 698 00:41:28,839 --> 00:41:31,899 I bought everything single peacock feather in Europe, 699 00:41:31,999 --> 00:41:36,019 and they were all coming in trucks from different places. 700 00:41:36,120 --> 00:41:40,440 Every hat work in Paris I knew of was working on them. 701 00:41:43,761 --> 00:41:45,221 I hadn't been to bed for two days 702 00:41:45,321 --> 00:41:47,181 so I could barely stand up. 703 00:41:47,281 --> 00:41:51,021 Marc and I were just standing next to each other, 704 00:41:51,121 --> 00:41:53,101 he turned to me and said, 705 00:41:53,202 --> 00:41:55,882 "This is my last show for Louis Vuitton, I'm leaving." 706 00:41:57,322 --> 00:41:59,902 We were like, "Oh, my God." 707 00:42:00,002 --> 00:42:02,262 (audience applauding) 708 00:42:02,363 --> 00:42:04,843 He knew but he hadn't told anybody. 709 00:42:06,363 --> 00:42:09,423 He wanted to do the show and then leave. 710 00:42:09,524 --> 00:42:12,924 It's not like he wanted to make this big drama out of it. 711 00:42:15,324 --> 00:42:19,434 We were all very sad and it was a very emotional time. 712 00:42:19,525 --> 00:42:22,685 I think we all burst into tears, of course, it's fashion. 713 00:42:24,125 --> 00:42:27,045 (crowd chattering) 714 00:42:29,286 --> 00:42:31,146 - Felt very emotional for me. - Did it? 715 00:42:31,246 --> 00:42:31,986 - [Reporter] For me. 716 00:42:32,086 --> 00:42:33,946 - It didn't feel like so emotional to me. 717 00:42:34,046 --> 00:42:35,626 Well, I mean, it's always emotional to me 718 00:42:35,727 --> 00:42:37,267 and it's emotional to all of us 719 00:42:37,367 --> 00:42:38,707 'cause we put our heart and soul into it, you know? 720 00:42:38,807 --> 00:42:40,827 That's why we do it. We love fashion. 721 00:42:40,927 --> 00:42:44,107 (gentle thoughtful music) 722 00:42:44,208 --> 00:42:48,028 - Superstar designers, I think, were absolutely crucial 723 00:42:48,128 --> 00:42:51,428 to a particular phase of the luxury industry, 724 00:42:51,528 --> 00:42:54,828 which is building it up from becoming a name 725 00:42:54,929 --> 00:42:56,269 to becoming a brand. 726 00:42:56,369 --> 00:43:00,069 But once they had become real brands they were businesses, 727 00:43:00,169 --> 00:43:04,469 and therefore, you can find people to work in that business 728 00:43:04,570 --> 00:43:09,570 who have creativity but who are a bit less larger than life 729 00:43:10,931 --> 00:43:13,791 than some of these designers were at the time. 730 00:43:13,891 --> 00:43:14,751 - [Bystander] We love you, Marc. 731 00:43:14,851 --> 00:43:17,551 - Oh, thank you. Thank you. 732 00:43:17,651 --> 00:43:19,111 - Bye-bye, Mr. Jacobs. - Bye-bye. 733 00:43:19,212 --> 00:43:20,672 Sorry, bye. 734 00:43:20,772 --> 00:43:24,092 (gentle delicate music) 735 00:43:26,612 --> 00:43:29,752 - In the end, the tycoons, the gods, 736 00:43:29,853 --> 00:43:34,853 in a sense, overlooking this kingdom, reigned omnipotent. 737 00:43:41,374 --> 00:43:46,084 And their princes, they treated them very well, 738 00:43:46,175 --> 00:43:47,515 they gave them all the riches, 739 00:43:47,615 --> 00:43:50,495 they gave them everything that they ever wanted or desired. 740 00:43:52,895 --> 00:43:54,315 But when it was time for them to go 741 00:43:54,416 --> 00:43:58,716 or they cracked up and fell on their own, they were gone. 742 00:43:58,816 --> 00:44:03,576 The tycoons, the gods, they were the untouchables. 743 00:44:04,657 --> 00:44:09,497 None of this sad, dirty, side of fashion, 744 00:44:11,257 --> 00:44:15,057 luxury, dirtied them. 745 00:44:16,778 --> 00:44:18,838 - Actually, before I went to rehab, 746 00:44:18,938 --> 00:44:20,518 I did try to reach out to them 747 00:44:20,618 --> 00:44:22,618 but my calls were not accepted. 748 00:44:23,859 --> 00:44:28,859 And quite recently I tried to reach out, as well, 749 00:44:31,580 --> 00:44:34,380 but the message I got was that perhaps it was too early. 750 00:44:35,420 --> 00:44:40,420 (sirens blaring) (gentle suspenseful music) 751 00:44:47,662 --> 00:44:51,262 - [Dana] In the age of globalisation and hyper-capitalism, 752 00:44:52,142 --> 00:44:54,002 the luxury fashion business 753 00:44:54,102 --> 00:44:56,122 grew into a monster of a business, 754 00:44:56,223 --> 00:44:59,403 just gigantic in a way that I don't even think 755 00:44:59,503 --> 00:45:02,023 Bernard Arnault could have originally imagined. 756 00:45:06,744 --> 00:45:11,744 Greed and envy are what drive fashion tycoons 757 00:45:12,104 --> 00:45:17,114 in the kingdom of dreams, who whip up this exaggerated, 758 00:45:18,625 --> 00:45:22,885 unobtainable idea of glamor and beauty. 759 00:45:22,986 --> 00:45:25,286 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 760 00:45:25,386 --> 00:45:26,246 ♪ Ah ♪ 761 00:45:26,346 --> 00:45:31,346 - [Dana] What they sell you is a marketing dream of beauty, 762 00:45:31,827 --> 00:45:36,607 of hand-craftsmanship, of the finest materials. 763 00:45:36,707 --> 00:45:39,347 Of the most glorious designs. 764 00:45:41,628 --> 00:45:44,208 It reminds me a lot of the Emerald City 765 00:45:44,308 --> 00:45:46,308 in the "Wizard of Oz." 766 00:45:47,148 --> 00:45:51,128 It just looks like this glittering, glamorous, 767 00:45:51,229 --> 00:45:54,989 beautiful place made of emeralds that sparkle. 768 00:45:57,109 --> 00:46:00,529 And then, in the end, there's a man behind the curtain 769 00:46:00,630 --> 00:46:04,530 with a machine turning on the sparkle, 770 00:46:04,630 --> 00:46:08,150 and it's all just smoke and mirrors, that's what it is. 771 00:46:10,071 --> 00:46:20,071 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 772 00:46:28,553 --> 00:46:31,133 ♪ Ah ♪ 773 00:46:31,233 --> 00:46:41,233 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 774 00:47:02,757 --> 00:47:06,237 (climatic dramatic music) 775 00:47:11,638 --> 00:47:15,038 (delicate pensive music) 776 00:47:22,359 --> 00:47:26,599 (delicate pensive music continues) 777 00:47:33,880 --> 00:47:38,120 (delicate pensive music continues) 778 00:47:44,522 --> 00:47:54,202 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 779 00:47:55,563 --> 00:47:59,843 (delicate pensive music continues)