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A great philosopher
once said, "The world is a book,
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and those who don't travel
read only one page."
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Well, I've gotta say,
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I've read a few pages,
and I'm not crazy about the book.
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I don't look forward to traveling
for a number of reasons.
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When it's too cold,
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I'm not comfortable.
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Ice swimming, naked?
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- Yes.
- Well, that's a terrific invitation.
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When it's too warm, guess what?
I'm not comfortable.
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I can't move that fast.
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- But I'm 75.
- You need some help?
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No, I got it.
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And maybe it's time to expand my horizons.
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Oh, my God.
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First time I've had my hand
up an elephant's ass.
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On the plus side,
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I'm staying at some unbelievable hotels.
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Oh, my. This is spectacular.
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The catch is, I've also agreed
to explore what lies outside.
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- Watch your step.
- No kidding.
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- Beautiful mountain.
- That's a volcano.
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That's a volcano?
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A world I've spent my whole life avoiding.
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Sadie.
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Oh, my God.
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Just surviving would be great.
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This is the last time
I have five vodkas with a Finn.
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I'm here at the westernmost tip of Europe.
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The closest European city
to North America,
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and yet a city
I know absolutely nothing about.
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I love Europe.
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I've been to Rome and London and Paris.
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And you seem to know a lot
about those cities.
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I can't even pinpoint Lisbon on a map.
I'm almost embarrassed to say that.
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But I'm told
that it's Europe's sunniest capital.
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Could this be the reason why the number
of tourists has doubled in recent years?
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While I'm here, I'll try and find out
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what it is they know
that I, without question, don't.
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Is that for me?
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Welcoming me to Lisbon
is local guide and heart-throb Bernardo.
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Whose car is even more
old-school Hollywood than his mustache.
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- For me?
- Yeah, for you.
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- Let's go.
- Let's go.
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All right, Bernardo.
Talk to me about Lisbon.
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So, it's almost 400 years older than Rome.
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400 years older than Rome?
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We call a place ancient
if only Grandpa remembers it.
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This place has been here over 3,000 years.
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It's quite beautiful.
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Exactly.
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Sitting at the mouth of the Atlantic,
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Lisbon's location made it a key port
for trade between Europe and Africa.
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So, this is our main square.
It was a trading spot back in the days.
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So ships would come in,
bring their goods here.
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The trading would go on in that square.
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Exactly.
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While Lisbon's golden age
was in the 16th century,
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it's been a quietly influential city
right up to modern times.
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In fact, in World War II,
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it was nicknamed "the city of spies"
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when both Nazi and Allied agents
operated undercover here.
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Also, Lisbon is known for
being the city of the seven hills.
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It looks like there's a lot more
than seven hills in this town.
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And it seems every street we've been on
is cobblestone.
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Yeah.
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Let's hope Bernardo
knows a good chiropractor.
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- So, Eugene, we are arriving.
- Ah.
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Perched on top of
one of those famous hills,
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my hotel is a former palace
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whose most famous resident
was a flamboyant aristocrat.
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- Welcome, Mr. Levy.
- Very, very nice.
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I feel underdressed.
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Hard to know whether to tip
this guy or challenge him to a duel.
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What a lovely place.
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The interior of the Palacio
reflects the taste of the count
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whose approach was most definitely not
less is more.
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We wanted to preserve as much as we could
about the-- the old palace.
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Hotel manager Margarida
is putting me in the royal suite
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where I'll make myself at home
among the other priceless antiques.
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Very, very beautiful.
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I feel just as comfortable here
as I do in a china shop,
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terrified I'll break something.
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Everything that you see was all
asked to be made by the Count of Verride.
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- The Count of Verride.
- Verride.
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It's easy for me because being Jewish,
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- the... is very kind of common.
- It's-- Yes.
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- So, it's not difficult to pronounce.
- Very few languages use the...
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- It's true.
- Right?
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Everything was his work.
The stuccos on the ceiling, the woodwork.
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He was a wealthy man,
and he wanted to show it off.
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This has to be the definition
of a bathroom.
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- The tile work is just beautiful.
- Yes.
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They say a hotel
is your home away from home.
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If I had a home away from home
that looked like this,
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you know, I'd be one happy guy.
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And who's on the wall?
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{\an8}She was a Portuguese queen
that married a king in England.
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{\an8}And in Portugal we had the culture of tea,
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so she was actually the one
that took tea to England.
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That's a great piece of information.
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Do you mind telling people
that you heard that from me?
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- And oh, it's fine. Yeah.
- Yeah. Okay.
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- I can let them know that you taught me.
- That would be a good one.
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So, I might be able
to pass myself off as a tea expert.
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- After you. Mind the step, please.
- Oh, my.
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But I still know next to nothing
about Lisbon itself.
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That's something.
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Yeah, I-I just-- I looked down.
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- I didn't realize...
- You're okay?
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...how close I was to the edge.
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Let's step back in.
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What I do know is I'm happiest
when my feet are firmly on dry land.
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But Margarida tells me
to really appreciate this seafaring town,
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I need to sail up its mighty Tagus River.
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So, I'm heading out with tour guide Luísa.
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- Okay.
- I would like to introduce you,
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the captain Angelo.
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Hey, Angelo.
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- Welcome aboard. Do you like?
- Yes.
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- It's my first time on a-- on a sailboat...
- Yeah.
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...and I don't really see a big crew.
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Yeah, you know that we need your help.
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Well, you know, I-- I'll do what I can.
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Angelo literally has no idea
how little I'm capable of.
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Can you help me to remove the ropes?
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- Remove the ropes.
- The ropes.
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Is there a nautical word for ropes,
or is it just ropes?
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- Ropes.
- Oh, I see. All right.
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Let's go to up the sail.
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Up sail!
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No, no. We have to do it.
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- Come with me.
- You want me up top?
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- Yeah, don't worry about the steering.
- It's okay. Don't worry.
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And now we are sailing.
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There's some boats
crossing right in front of us.
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- Don't worry.
- Don't worry about them?
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- No, no, don't worry.
- They're just people.
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It's a nice job, right?
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It is, if you weren't so concerned about,
you know, your life.
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Miraculously, I've managed
to maneuver us safely out of the marina.
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Look at how pretty that looks right now.
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This is the best place to discover Lisbon.
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You can see the old town, the hills--
the famous hills,
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and you can see the statue here.
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We call it Christ the King.
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Of course, when you look at it,
you think of another country, right?
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- I would say Brazil. Yeah.
- Brazil. Exactly.
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You know, the cardinal of Lisbon
visited Rio in the '30s,
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and he was impressed with the statue of
Christ the Redeemer,
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and when he came back,
he wanted to make something similar.
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Ah. What's this over here?
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The first name was Salazar Bridge.
This remind you something?
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Yeah, they-- Well, of course,
the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco.
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There is a reason, you see,
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because Lisbon has another thing
that is similar to San Francisco.
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Earthquakes.
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In fact, most of the city was
destroyed in the great earthquake of 1755
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and had to be rebuilt.
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Oh, yeah. We're going under the bridge.
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When it came to designing a bridge,
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they hired Americans
to make it earthquake-proof,
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like the ones in California.
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You know, from Lisbon,
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you can see a little bit of
the whole world in just one city.
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Lisbon's skyline
is strikingly international
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and has long been a global melting pot.
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This is a monument to celebrate
what many people don't know.
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It was exactly from here
that sailors left from Lisbon...
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- Right.
- ...to discover the New World.
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During the 15th and 16th centuries,
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the Portuguese found sea routes
to India, Brazil, China and Japan.
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And suddenly all the different people,
the exotic products, they start arriving.
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And Lisbon became the richest city
in Europe.
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To think that a city
I couldn't even point to on a map
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actually helped draw it.
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You know, still today, the Portuguese
people like to explore the world.
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We like to get out,
have different experiences.
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What about you?
Do you like also to travel to--
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I-- You know,
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- adventure is my middle name, Luísa.
- Great.
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- You know, explore the world...
- Hmm.
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...it's in my nature.
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So you are like the Portuguese.
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You could say
I've got a little Portuguese in me.
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I did lie.
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It just seemed she was so excited
about being with an adventurous person.
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I might have gone over the edge
a little bit.
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I'm not adventurous at all.
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That's where acting comes in.
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You know, when you can hide ineptitude
on a scale like that, give me an Oscar.
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After a heavy day captaining a ship,
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one thing I don't need to fake
is my love of cocktails.
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And the hotel's specialty
has a nautical theme.
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Oh, it's meant to be a boat.
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I see it now. Sails.
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Oh, that's good.
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This evening's drinks
are served with a side of music.
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This is Lisbon's answer
to the blues, called fado.
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It's traditionally the song of sailors,
like I technically am now.
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Tonight, it's being sung by a megastar.
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Let's call him the Bono of fado.
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00:12:46,184 --> 00:12:48,228
Nice to meet you. How are you?
My name is Hélder.
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- Hélder?
- Hélder.
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So where did this music start?
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00:12:53,024 --> 00:12:57,070
The first fado singer was one lady.
The name was Maria Severa.
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And she was a-- a prostitute,
and she used to play guitar.
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- A prostitute?
- Yeah.
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00:13:07,581 --> 00:13:09,499
It was an interesting history.
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I wouldn't have guessed
that it w-would be a prostitute
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who came up with the tune.
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00:13:15,964 --> 00:13:17,424
But give her credit.
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Which I'm sure she didn't take
at the time.
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It was cash only.
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00:13:24,973 --> 00:13:27,517
There's some long, lingering notes.
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00:13:27,517 --> 00:13:30,604
Boy, you've got to have a voice
to sing fado.
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00:13:30,604 --> 00:13:32,314
You are a musician?
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00:13:32,314 --> 00:13:34,190
- To--
- But you play some instrument?
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00:13:34,190 --> 00:13:35,567
- Some...
- Oh, badly.
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W-Which one?
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- Guitar.
- Guitar?
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In a couple of days,
we-we are going to another fado club.
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Why don't we try to-to-to play with--
a little bit with us?
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He was being very gracious,
asking me to perform.
225
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But the idea of accompanying him
on a guitar would--
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I-I'd be ruining, you know, his set.
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I-I don't know whether I could play...
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- Well, just to try.
- ...with you.
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00:14:04,846 --> 00:14:09,851
I don't want to incur his wrath by hitting
a wrong note in the wrong place.
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I haven't picked up a guitar in years.
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And believe me,
I'm no fan of public humiliation.
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00:14:17,776 --> 00:14:20,237
But maybe joining Hélder on stage
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could be just the voyage
of self-discovery I need.
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00:14:28,078 --> 00:14:33,333
It's another one of Lisbon's
220 annual days of glorious sunshine.
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00:14:35,335 --> 00:14:38,588
Now, it's no secret I get anxious
trying new things,
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and that's even more true of my stomach.
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00:14:42,467 --> 00:14:44,886
But this place is a foodie hotspot,
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00:14:44,886 --> 00:14:48,098
so I'm headed into town
to sample its delights.
239
00:14:48,723 --> 00:14:50,684
First, I've got to get there.
240
00:14:51,726 --> 00:14:56,147
Lisbon's most iconic form of
transportation is the tram.
241
00:14:56,147 --> 00:15:00,068
Nobody likes exercise more than me,
don't get me wrong.
242
00:15:00,944 --> 00:15:02,654
But too many hills.
243
00:15:03,530 --> 00:15:06,992
Inspired by the cable cars
in the United States,
244
00:15:06,992 --> 00:15:09,786
they were originally dubbed Americanos.
245
00:15:10,829 --> 00:15:12,163
Never been on a tram.
246
00:15:12,872 --> 00:15:18,253
We have streetcars in Toronto,
but not trams.
247
00:15:20,297 --> 00:15:25,594
I always prefer a form of
transportation that comes with no drama.
248
00:15:31,766 --> 00:15:34,311
- I think we have an issue here.
- We have an issue?
249
00:15:34,895 --> 00:15:35,812
Badly parked car.
250
00:15:36,396 --> 00:15:38,481
Well, this is--
I've got to do something about this.
251
00:15:42,068 --> 00:15:46,531
We've got a parked car here.
It's parked way too close to the tracks.
252
00:15:47,699 --> 00:15:51,453
I wasn't expecting, you know,
an emergency situation like that.
253
00:15:52,120 --> 00:15:54,915
- Take it right through.
- No, no, no, please.
254
00:15:55,957 --> 00:15:58,919
If it was me, I would just barrel through,
255
00:15:58,919 --> 00:16:02,088
take the front part of the car right off,
you know?
256
00:16:02,088 --> 00:16:03,256
You can't do that?
257
00:16:03,256 --> 00:16:05,217
- You can't just go through?
- No, I cant.
258
00:16:05,217 --> 00:16:07,302
- It will be my fault.
- But it's his problem.
259
00:16:07,302 --> 00:16:08,887
Does that happen a lot?
260
00:16:09,721 --> 00:16:11,598
It's-- Yes, often, often.
261
00:16:11,598 --> 00:16:17,270
That car will get fined,
and if he's still there, he'll get towed.
262
00:16:17,938 --> 00:16:20,899
Everything works out.
It's what I call a happy ending.
263
00:16:21,858 --> 00:16:25,278
Sadly, I don't have time
to wait and see justice served.
264
00:16:25,278 --> 00:16:30,951
So, looks like I'm forced to head off
on foot in search of some culinary treats.
265
00:16:30,951 --> 00:16:33,161
Eugene, I'm Luísa.
266
00:16:33,161 --> 00:16:36,665
- Luísa, so nice to meet you.
- I'm responsible for your well-being
267
00:16:36,665 --> 00:16:38,166
in the next few hours.
268
00:16:38,166 --> 00:16:39,084
Aha!
269
00:16:39,084 --> 00:16:42,045
Responsible for what's going
into my tummy.
270
00:16:42,045 --> 00:16:45,298
And I want you to understand
why we love food in Portugal.
271
00:16:45,298 --> 00:16:49,177
First thing we like, food, second food,
third food and sun.
272
00:16:49,177 --> 00:16:50,387
I get it. I totally get it.
273
00:16:50,387 --> 00:16:54,641
So, let's buy the things I need
to cook your lunch.
274
00:16:54,641 --> 00:16:58,478
Luísa is a local chef
who runs cookery classes.
275
00:16:58,478 --> 00:17:02,107
So, this is really
the best market in Lisbon.
276
00:17:02,107 --> 00:17:04,276
I come here every day,
because you know what?
277
00:17:04,276 --> 00:17:07,112
I think you know a country and a culture
278
00:17:07,112 --> 00:17:09,030
- by the food.
- That's true.
279
00:17:09,613 --> 00:17:13,868
And we do care about international food
in Lisbon.
280
00:17:13,868 --> 00:17:18,957
We took a lot of flavors and spices
from all over the world to Portugal.
281
00:17:18,957 --> 00:17:21,668
The vast Portuguese trading network
282
00:17:21,668 --> 00:17:26,339
brought back foods from places
like Africa, India and the Far East.
283
00:17:26,339 --> 00:17:32,220
- I've heard so much about piri piri sauce...
- Wow.
284
00:17:32,220 --> 00:17:36,224
...as being one of
the great tasty Portuguese dishes.
285
00:17:36,224 --> 00:17:37,726
You'll love piri piri sauce.
286
00:17:37,726 --> 00:17:42,314
Sailors from here discovered the
powerful bird's eye chili in Mozambique
287
00:17:42,314 --> 00:17:44,608
and created piri piri.
288
00:17:44,608 --> 00:17:47,319
That's Swahili for "pepper, pepper."
289
00:17:48,320 --> 00:17:51,156
It's so pungent, they named it twice.
290
00:17:51,156 --> 00:17:54,075
- These look very spicy. Is this hot?
- Everything is really hot.
291
00:17:54,075 --> 00:17:56,286
- Hot like, ho-ho-ho-ho-ho-hot?
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
292
00:17:56,870 --> 00:17:59,581
Though I just wish
I knew the Portuguese for
293
00:17:59,581 --> 00:18:01,833
"I'm more of a ketchup kind of guy."
294
00:18:03,126 --> 00:18:07,923
Next on the menu is something
the locals love even more than piri piri.
295
00:18:07,923 --> 00:18:08,840
Fish.
296
00:18:09,424 --> 00:18:12,761
Only Japan and Iceland
eat more per person.
297
00:18:12,761 --> 00:18:16,514
So, the fish we are going to prepare
is that one.
298
00:18:17,182 --> 00:18:18,183
Oh, boy.
299
00:18:19,059 --> 00:18:22,187
So, I've never been fond of fish markets,
300
00:18:22,771 --> 00:18:24,981
and I can't imagine the fish are either.
301
00:18:28,735 --> 00:18:29,736
I can hear it.
302
00:18:30,445 --> 00:18:31,446
There's some crunching.
303
00:18:32,864 --> 00:18:34,074
Wow.
304
00:18:39,162 --> 00:18:41,623
This is why
you'd never catch me on a pier.
305
00:18:43,708 --> 00:18:47,170
I just know I'm gonna be seeing
the look in that fish's eyes
306
00:18:47,170 --> 00:18:48,255
for years to come.
307
00:18:53,426 --> 00:18:56,513
But now something
I'm even less prepared for.
308
00:18:57,013 --> 00:18:59,766
Very welcome to my humble house.
309
00:18:59,766 --> 00:19:00,684
Cooking.
310
00:19:02,435 --> 00:19:07,399
So, Eugene, we have here the ingredients
for the piri piri sauce.
311
00:19:07,399 --> 00:19:09,025
So, I'm gonna cut this.
312
00:19:09,025 --> 00:19:10,986
- First, I'm gonna cut it like that.
- Yeah.
313
00:19:10,986 --> 00:19:12,028
And do you slice it?
314
00:19:12,028 --> 00:19:14,781
- You peel it before, Eugene.
- Huh? Oh, you like to peel it?
315
00:19:14,781 --> 00:19:16,283
- Yes.
- Oh, okay.
316
00:19:16,283 --> 00:19:18,243
- You have to peel onions.
- Well, different cultures.
317
00:19:19,536 --> 00:19:22,539
I just like eating stuff.
I don't really like making it, you know?
318
00:19:22,539 --> 00:19:26,001
You learn a lot about people when cooking,
isn't it?
319
00:19:26,001 --> 00:19:30,088
Well, I'm afraid to carry-- carry this on
any further than-- than that.
320
00:19:30,839 --> 00:19:34,301
The first date I ever had with my wife,
321
00:19:35,260 --> 00:19:39,890
I was making some tea
and I would put the tea bag in the cup
322
00:19:39,890 --> 00:19:42,142
and then just kind of squeeze it out
with a spoon.
323
00:19:42,142 --> 00:19:44,227
She said, "What are you doing?"
324
00:19:44,227 --> 00:19:45,729
I said, "I'm making you a cup of tea."
325
00:19:45,729 --> 00:19:47,939
She said,
"Well, don't you steep your tea?"
326
00:19:47,939 --> 00:19:50,108
I said, "I don't know what that means."
327
00:19:50,108 --> 00:19:52,819
We got into a little argument.
That was our first date.
328
00:19:52,819 --> 00:19:55,488
And you had some trouble
to get her back or not?
329
00:19:55,488 --> 00:19:56,990
No, I had no trouble.
330
00:19:56,990 --> 00:20:00,201
She was bedazzled by my personality.
331
00:20:00,201 --> 00:20:01,870
She really loved you.
332
00:20:01,870 --> 00:20:03,371
Ah, eventually.
333
00:20:03,371 --> 00:20:04,915
For how long are you married?
334
00:20:04,915 --> 00:20:10,295
We've been married 45 years.
335
00:20:11,087 --> 00:20:12,964
- Wow, that's great.
- Yeah.
336
00:20:12,964 --> 00:20:16,593
And-- I'm-- I always think
that I'm the longest marriage I know.
337
00:20:16,593 --> 00:20:18,220
- And you've been married--
- Thirty-eight.
338
00:20:18,220 --> 00:20:19,137
- Thirty-eight?
- Yes.
339
00:20:19,137 --> 00:20:20,805
- Well, that's pretty close.
- Yeah.
340
00:20:20,805 --> 00:20:22,015
- I got you by seven.
- Yeah.
341
00:20:22,015 --> 00:20:24,142
Now it's no use to get divorced.
342
00:20:25,685 --> 00:20:27,687
- No.
- No. There's no-- There's no point.
343
00:20:27,687 --> 00:20:31,566
As my wife says, there's a whole new set
of in-laws you have to get to know.
344
00:20:31,566 --> 00:20:32,943
- Yeah, exactly.
- Right?
345
00:20:33,818 --> 00:20:37,113
You know,
I have to write a note to your wife,
346
00:20:37,113 --> 00:20:40,533
- because I'm sure she suffers with you.
- She does.
347
00:20:41,284 --> 00:20:44,871
Luísa realizes
the best thing she can have me do
348
00:20:44,871 --> 00:20:47,499
is simply snack and watch.
349
00:20:48,083 --> 00:20:49,376
- Peppers?
- Peppers.
350
00:20:49,376 --> 00:20:50,335
Lemon.
351
00:20:50,835 --> 00:20:54,422
In a perfect piri piri,
the chili's heat is tempered
352
00:20:54,422 --> 00:20:59,803
by a delicate mix of
lemon, garlic, onion and salt.
353
00:21:00,303 --> 00:21:03,181
And after I finally pulled my weight...
354
00:21:04,015 --> 00:21:05,475
- Perfect?
- Perfect.
355
00:21:05,475 --> 00:21:06,893
...the sauce is ready.
356
00:21:06,893 --> 00:21:10,063
I'm gonna put the fish in a marinade.
357
00:21:10,063 --> 00:21:12,857
And following Portuguese tradition,
358
00:21:12,857 --> 00:21:17,153
Luísa is subjecting the fish
to further indignities.
359
00:21:17,153 --> 00:21:19,364
The fish sitting in that milk.
360
00:21:20,865 --> 00:21:22,951
- What?
- You're worse than my grandchildren.
361
00:21:22,951 --> 00:21:24,160
I'm a picky eater.
362
00:21:24,160 --> 00:21:27,497
- It will soften...
- It softens the fish?
363
00:21:27,497 --> 00:21:29,749
- ...the fish. You'll see when you eat it.
- Right?
364
00:21:31,835 --> 00:21:36,923
She instills a lot of confidence,
so I was putting a lot of trust in her.
365
00:21:38,091 --> 00:21:39,384
I'm nervous.
366
00:21:40,802 --> 00:21:44,931
The fish, the piri piri sauce.
But be careful.
367
00:21:46,016 --> 00:21:47,017
Okay.
368
00:21:52,939 --> 00:21:56,026
Oh, my God. This is incredible.
369
00:21:57,193 --> 00:22:00,947
Definitely the best meal I've had
in Portugal.
370
00:22:00,947 --> 00:22:03,825
Great. Thank you for trusting me.
371
00:22:03,825 --> 00:22:07,579
I didn't think I did too badly
with the meal.
372
00:22:09,039 --> 00:22:11,333
I didn't mind
being bossed around by Luísa.
373
00:22:11,833 --> 00:22:13,793
- To the fish.
- To the fish.
374
00:22:15,629 --> 00:22:18,965
Lisbon evidently
has a strange effect on people.
375
00:22:19,466 --> 00:22:23,386
I'm not just trying new things,
I'm liking some.
376
00:22:24,512 --> 00:22:28,516
Maybe this town's adventurous spirit
is rubbing off on me.
377
00:22:30,018 --> 00:22:34,189
But there's a bigger challenge
to prepare for, Hélder's gig.
378
00:22:34,898 --> 00:22:37,692
It's all not coming back to me now.
379
00:22:39,361 --> 00:22:41,655
I haven't picked up a guitar in too long.
380
00:22:41,655 --> 00:22:47,160
And you may hear a clinker or two,
if you're listening to me.
381
00:22:47,911 --> 00:22:51,748
So, I may be doing a lot of wincing
up there on stage.
382
00:22:52,499 --> 00:22:57,087
You know, the whole thing could turn out
to be very sad because of my playing.
383
00:22:57,087 --> 00:23:00,549
But that's what fado music is, isn't it?
Right?
384
00:23:01,091 --> 00:23:05,095
So, I'm glad I'll be able to contribute
to the longing
385
00:23:05,887 --> 00:23:08,515
for a better musician
up there with this guy.
386
00:23:10,767 --> 00:23:14,813
Yeah, I may have
a long night of practice ahead.
387
00:23:22,946 --> 00:23:28,243
This morning, hotel owner Kees
is taking me for a walk on the cobbles,
388
00:23:28,243 --> 00:23:30,662
and he's promised it'll be worth my while.
389
00:23:30,662 --> 00:23:33,456
Good morning.
390
00:23:33,456 --> 00:23:37,043
- Fine sense of style. I love that.
- Yeah?
391
00:23:37,043 --> 00:23:40,839
My son would be just going crazy
392
00:23:40,839 --> 00:23:42,132
- with this outfit.
- Yeah?
393
00:23:43,466 --> 00:23:46,887
Dutchman Kees settled here
over 40 years ago
394
00:23:46,887 --> 00:23:48,513
after traveling the globe.
395
00:23:49,639 --> 00:23:51,182
I came to live here
396
00:23:51,182 --> 00:23:54,269
because Lisbon is one of
the most beautiful places in the world.
397
00:23:54,269 --> 00:23:57,063
And in an effort to persuade me of that,
398
00:23:57,063 --> 00:24:00,775
he's figured out a way of
getting to my heart: pastries.
399
00:24:00,775 --> 00:24:04,696
Maybe you'll allow me
to buy some small custard tarts.
400
00:24:04,696 --> 00:24:06,197
Custard tarts?
401
00:24:06,197 --> 00:24:09,367
My, my, my. I love these.
402
00:24:09,367 --> 00:24:11,995
Pastel de natas owe their existence
403
00:24:11,995 --> 00:24:15,498
to nuns who used egg whites
to starch their habits,
404
00:24:15,498 --> 00:24:19,085
leaving the leftover yolk
for the monks to whip into custard.
405
00:24:19,586 --> 00:24:21,838
God bless the monks. How about that?
406
00:24:22,464 --> 00:24:23,465
Can't wait.
407
00:24:29,262 --> 00:24:31,973
Every single street,
you see a lot of tiles.
408
00:24:31,973 --> 00:24:32,891
Oh.
409
00:24:32,891 --> 00:24:36,186
In Lisbon or Portugal
they call them azulejos.
410
00:24:36,686 --> 00:24:40,148
These painted tiles
originate from the Moors.
411
00:24:40,148 --> 00:24:44,361
Azulejo is an Arabic word
meaning "polished stones."
412
00:24:45,445 --> 00:24:50,116
- Are these tiles still made now in Lisbon?
- Absolutely.
413
00:24:50,116 --> 00:24:54,079
Like, the tiles in our hotel are all
handmade by the same factories
414
00:24:54,079 --> 00:24:55,789
that doing that for ages.
415
00:24:56,915 --> 00:25:01,753
I'm now starting to identify
a personality to the city
416
00:25:01,753 --> 00:25:04,172
that I didn't before.
417
00:25:05,840 --> 00:25:07,175
This is stunning.
418
00:25:07,175 --> 00:25:11,054
Eugene, maybe it's time that we tried
the pastel de natas.
419
00:25:11,054 --> 00:25:13,640
A man after my own heart.
420
00:25:14,307 --> 00:25:15,267
- Cheers.
- Cheers.
421
00:25:22,107 --> 00:25:23,108
Oh, my.
422
00:25:23,608 --> 00:25:25,735
Those tarts were insane.
423
00:25:26,236 --> 00:25:29,823
They were so incredibly delicious.
424
00:25:30,949 --> 00:25:31,783
Wow.
425
00:25:31,783 --> 00:25:35,078
That's the reason to come to Lisbon,
just for the tarts.
426
00:25:35,078 --> 00:25:36,538
Bottoms up.
427
00:25:36,538 --> 00:25:41,334
I'd be happy to volunteer
as Lisbon's chief custard tart taster,
428
00:25:41,334 --> 00:25:43,879
but Kees has other ideas for me.
429
00:25:44,588 --> 00:25:48,842
He's recommended a visit to one of
the city's oldest tile factories.
430
00:25:49,676 --> 00:25:56,141
Here they form, fire, glaze and paint
431
00:25:56,141 --> 00:25:58,518
up to 20,000 a day.
432
00:26:01,479 --> 00:26:03,231
I'm meeting Diogo,
433
00:26:03,899 --> 00:26:07,360
who's brought contemporary
design to the world of ceramics.
434
00:26:07,986 --> 00:26:10,864
Just one cutting-edge artist
meeting another.
435
00:26:11,448 --> 00:26:12,824
- I'm Diogo.
- Diogo.
436
00:26:12,824 --> 00:26:14,743
- Eugene.
- You're the man.
437
00:26:15,327 --> 00:26:19,956
Diogo's tiles use azulejos'
historic blue and white colors.
438
00:26:20,624 --> 00:26:23,919
The twist here is my artwork
kind of looks traditional.
439
00:26:23,919 --> 00:26:25,170
It's not traditional at all.
440
00:26:26,129 --> 00:26:31,134
My focus is more based on patterns
and elements within patterns.
441
00:26:31,134 --> 00:26:33,386
- Right.
- If you look at the pattern here,
442
00:26:33,386 --> 00:26:38,058
then, you know, it might be like a small
creature or a cartoonish inspired--
443
00:26:38,058 --> 00:26:39,851
Oh, I see. I can see that.
444
00:26:40,352 --> 00:26:44,731
Diogo's limited-edition tiles
sell for hundreds of dollars each.
445
00:26:45,315 --> 00:26:47,817
They're painstakingly painted by hand.
446
00:26:48,944 --> 00:26:53,323
Manuela is right here.
She's the master expert of tile painting.
447
00:26:55,617 --> 00:26:57,744
She's been working here for 42 years.
448
00:26:58,453 --> 00:27:00,330
Forty-two? Amazing.
449
00:27:01,957 --> 00:27:03,375
She's asking if you wanna try.
Do you wanna try?
450
00:27:03,375 --> 00:27:06,002
- You should try doing it.
- Try painting? I don't know.
451
00:27:06,002 --> 00:27:08,296
So of course it makes perfect sense
452
00:27:08,296 --> 00:27:11,967
to set me loose
on one of his precious designs.
453
00:27:11,967 --> 00:27:15,053
- See?
- Oh. I'm gonna start here.
454
00:27:16,263 --> 00:27:18,557
- There you go.
- I see.
455
00:27:19,307 --> 00:27:21,017
I started well on my tile.
456
00:27:21,810 --> 00:27:23,728
I actually surprised myself a little bit.
457
00:27:23,728 --> 00:27:25,939
You are actually doing really well.
458
00:27:25,939 --> 00:27:27,983
I'm gonna create a challenge for you
right now.
459
00:27:27,983 --> 00:27:29,276
Yeah?
460
00:27:29,276 --> 00:27:32,821
So, this has these white lines.
461
00:27:32,821 --> 00:27:35,865
So what should we do
to paint around the white lines?
462
00:27:35,865 --> 00:27:37,325
- That's--
- I would get--
463
00:27:37,325 --> 00:27:39,828
I would get somebody else, but--
464
00:27:40,537 --> 00:27:43,331
- I'm gonna do this. Now there.
- It's good.
465
00:27:43,331 --> 00:27:47,210
My dad was a great artist.
He used to do caricatures and things.
466
00:27:47,919 --> 00:27:49,838
Steady hands. Position.
467
00:27:49,838 --> 00:27:52,173
- You ready?
- Whenever you're ready.
468
00:27:57,971 --> 00:28:00,307
I picked up nothing from-- from that.
469
00:28:00,307 --> 00:28:03,351
Well, that's bad. That's ruined now.
470
00:28:04,519 --> 00:28:05,770
What happened to that gene?
471
00:28:07,606 --> 00:28:08,899
- We did a collaboration, Eugene.
- All right.
472
00:28:08,899 --> 00:28:10,775
- I hope you're happy with this one.
- Wow.
473
00:28:11,902 --> 00:28:13,778
He's a very talented guy.
474
00:28:15,238 --> 00:28:18,575
I haven't exactly
covered myself in glory here,
475
00:28:18,575 --> 00:28:24,873
but I'm hoping tonight's collaboration
will paint me in a more favorable light.
476
00:28:24,873 --> 00:28:26,333
Apologies for that.
477
00:28:26,333 --> 00:28:27,542
Oh, boy.
478
00:28:34,758 --> 00:28:35,842
Not bad.
479
00:28:37,844 --> 00:28:41,640
Several hours later
and the crowds are already gathering
480
00:28:41,640 --> 00:28:45,143
to watch one of
Portugal's greatest fado singers.
481
00:28:45,143 --> 00:28:47,062
I feel bad for this chap.
482
00:28:47,771 --> 00:28:50,899
I don't think he knows
what he's gotten himself into.
483
00:28:50,899 --> 00:28:54,736
And his incredibly underwhelming
Canadian guitarist.
484
00:28:55,612 --> 00:28:57,656
- Eugene.
- Hello, Eugene.
485
00:28:57,656 --> 00:28:59,366
- Hi.
- Welcome.
486
00:28:59,366 --> 00:29:02,494
Fortunately,
some of my new Portuguese friends...
487
00:29:02,494 --> 00:29:03,954
- Wow, you're so chic.
- Wow.
488
00:29:03,954 --> 00:29:05,705
...have come to support me.
489
00:29:06,790 --> 00:29:09,751
We have a very special guest at the house.
490
00:29:10,335 --> 00:29:14,756
I would like to present you, please,
Mr. Eugene Levy.
491
00:29:15,590 --> 00:29:18,885
All I have to do
is strum the simple chords
492
00:29:18,885 --> 00:29:22,973
and let the professionals
take care of the fancier business.
493
00:29:22,973 --> 00:29:27,102
It sounds easy until you throw in
a room full of fado fans.
494
00:29:27,102 --> 00:29:28,770
Thank you out there.
495
00:29:28,770 --> 00:29:30,981
- I'm not gonna be singing.
- Okay.
496
00:29:32,190 --> 00:29:37,237
This is my very first fado concert.
Hopefully I don't screw it up.
497
00:29:39,489 --> 00:29:40,490
Gentlemen.
498
00:30:19,613 --> 00:30:21,197
Two, three, four.
499
00:30:29,331 --> 00:30:32,000
It was actually nerve-racking
to be up there
500
00:30:32,000 --> 00:30:34,836
because they're so good at what they do.
501
00:30:39,549 --> 00:30:42,636
But I don't--
I don't think I did screw that up.
502
00:30:45,388 --> 00:30:48,183
I was better than I thought I would be.
503
00:30:53,438 --> 00:30:55,357
Yeah, whoa!
504
00:31:03,865 --> 00:31:05,200
Thank you.
505
00:31:08,578 --> 00:31:09,663
This is a lot of fun.
506
00:31:12,249 --> 00:31:17,254
It's hard to believe just days ago,
I knew so little about this town.
507
00:31:17,963 --> 00:31:22,425
I can honestly say, going from
a blank slate on what this place is,
508
00:31:22,425 --> 00:31:23,969
it's a bit of an eye-opener.
509
00:31:24,553 --> 00:31:29,307
Exploration and adventure
are written into Lisbon's DNA.
510
00:31:29,891 --> 00:31:35,647
The Portuguese ventured out into
the world, discovered the new and exotic,
511
00:31:35,647 --> 00:31:38,692
then wove it into the fabric of this city.
512
00:31:39,276 --> 00:31:41,111
And it's inspiring.
513
00:31:41,695 --> 00:31:48,451
I still find I'm fighting
that adventurous spirit thing, you know?
514
00:31:48,451 --> 00:31:52,914
I know I still don't quite have it,
but I'm giving it a go.
515
00:31:52,914 --> 00:31:54,708
To my fado premiere.
516
00:31:54,708 --> 00:31:56,585
- Yeah.
- Yeah!
517
00:31:56,585 --> 00:32:01,298
And I guess I might be classified
as a junior member
518
00:32:02,757 --> 00:32:04,509
in the world travelers club.