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[serene classical music playing]
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-All right, cheers.
-Cheers.
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[man] Hercules was the enslaved
African American chef
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for President George Washington
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while the president's house
was in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
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And he was a very accomplished chef.
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A lot of people
who ate at Washington's residence
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celebrated his food in their writing
and their diaries and letters.
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{\an8}His cooking was so good
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{\an8}that he actually made money every year
selling leftovers.
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And he would use that money
to buy clothes.
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There are stories about him,
after his shift was over,
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dressing up in fancy outfits
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and having a gold cane,
walking about town.
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So, he was really quite the character.
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How did Washington ensure
that Hercules remained enslaved?
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When Washington summoned Hercules
from Mount Vernon to Philadelphia,
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there was one problem.
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State law said that if an enslaved person
was on Pennsylvania soil
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for six months or longer,
they were automatically free.
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So, he would pack up
all the enslaved people in Philadelphia
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and take them back to Mount Vernon
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to start that clock over,
and then bring them back to Philadelphia.
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[Stephen] Does Washington fear
that Hercules will run away?
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[Adrian] There's indications
that towards the end of his second term,
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he does start to suspect
that Hercules might try to escape.
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Washington's suspicions are so strong
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that he actually sends Hercules
back to Mount Vernon,
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but not to the kitchen, but to the fields.
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So this world-renowned cook
is now a laborer.
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And then one day, he disappears.
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[dramatic music plays]
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[opening theme song playing]
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[string instruments tuning]
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[playing chamber music]
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[Stephen] Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
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I've always associated
the City of Brotherly Love
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with ideas of freedom.
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Quaker settlers led the charge
for abolition here,
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and Pennsylvania was the first state
in the Union to outlaw slavery.
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But emancipation was a gradual process,
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and back when Philly served
as the nation's capital,
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two chefs that cooked
some of the finest meals in the country
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remained enslaved here
by the founding fathers.
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Hercules served George Washington,
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and a man named James Hemings
cooked for Thomas Jefferson.
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And while there are
no known images of these men,
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their legacies are still alive and well
all the way out in California.
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[rhythmic music playing]
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At a spot called Hatchet Hall,
I met Brian Dunsmoor and Martin Draluck,
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two chefs who are recreating
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the cooking techniques
of Hercules and Hemings.
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Both enslaved men mastered
elegant meals over the open fire,
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a method known as hearth cooking.
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I mean, the hardest part
is just maintaining the fire,
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and not killing yourself,
kind of, you know,
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by standing in front of a fire
and melting from the heat.
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We've done well over 1,000 dishes
since we've been open.
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For us, it's more about the techniques,
and challenging ourselves,
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not to mention it's kind of like a bridge
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that helps us tell the story
that we're trying to tell.
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So part of the way that you guys bring
this historical context into your cooking
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is through these dinners.
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Hercules and Hemings…
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Can you tell us who they were
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and tell us a little bit more
about these dinners?
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You could consider them
two of America's first celebrity chefs.
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They were enslaved property
of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson.
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{\an8}James Hemings specifically traveled
to France with Thomas Jefferson, um,
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{\an8}learned to cook professionally.
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As most stories in slavery, they got lost,
or didn't get recorded in the first place,
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so just to be able to tell their story
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is the biggest motivation
for doing the dinners.
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[Stephen] So I'm checking out this menu.
Who is this featured?
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For the longest time it wasn't known
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whether that was James Hemings
or Hercules Caesar,
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up until recently, where they found out
that it's actually neither of them.
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-[softly] Okay.
-But the picture was so amazing
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that it-it couldn't--
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We couldn't pick anything else
to be the logo for the dinners.
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[Brian] We're inspired
by American food history,
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{\an8}and we're trying to learn as we go,
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{\an8}and teach people as we go along the way.
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There you go, guys,
here's your veal olive.
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-[Stephen] Thank you. Beautiful.
-[waiter] You're welcome, enjoy.
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So tell me,
what's the story with this dish?
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Well, I think what's interesting
about Hercules is that
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he's apparently
one of the most famous chefs of his time,
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but you can't find a dish
that he's ever created.
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And then you have Martha Washington,
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who has, like, this plethora of dishes,
like, all over the place.
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-Err… It doesn't all add up.
-Right.
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So, a lot of people have a theory
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that a lot of the dishes
that Martha Washington is credited with
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were actually Hercules' dishes.
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So, originally, this dish would have been
a pounded-out veal cutlet,
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rolled with crab meat,
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and then cooked in a sherry cream sauce.
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What we do, we do a whole veal sweetbread.
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And then we serve it
with a sauce of sherry cream,
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with a little bit of mushroom stock.
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And we use Dungeness crab.
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[Stephen] Wow.
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That's so tender.
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So good.
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[Brian] So, what's kind of interesting
about this dish is that
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Hercules was famous
for doing French service,
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but not necessarily French techniques.
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He would do more English-style food,
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whereas James Heming, opposite, you know.
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He actually cooked French food,
after apprenticing in France.
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[rhythmic music playing]
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[Stephen] Wow.
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It's like a present.
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[Martin] Oh, yeah.
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[Stephen] So, what is this dish?
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So, this is a braised rabbit,
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and wood-roasted carrots
over toasted Midlands grits,
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with Madeira mounted with beurre manié.
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So, definitely an ode to James Hemings.
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The relation to Hemings
would be the pan sauce itself,
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using his knowledge of the stew stove
that he brought back with him from France,
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and being able
to mount sauces with butter,
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or handling delicate cream
and butter sauces.
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Mmm.
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I love it.
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So when Hemings returns from France,
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he's using the stew stove to cook.
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[Brian] The stew stove
that Hemings brought back from France
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was kind of a segue into what we have now.
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-[Stephen] Got it.
-[Brian] It's like…
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If they didn't bring that back,
we'd be in big trouble.
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[Martin] We don't have one
in the restaurant,
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but, uh, we kind of simulate it,
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basically keeping whatever you're cooking
away from direct, high heat.
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[diners chattering]
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How have people received,
uh, these dinners?
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I think everybody that's attended
the dinners has responded really well.
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Some people that read about the dinner,
that didn't attend,
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didn't think it was so cool.
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You know, it's a touchy subject,
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and lots of people don't wanna hear
other people talk about it. So…
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Why is that, you think?
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Americans are like ostriches.
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Like, they stick their head in the sand
and pretend that everything is okay.
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We're not guilty of anything,
sitting here, you know?
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It's…
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We're making progress,
and people just need to know.
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People need the facts,
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and they can make
their opinions themselves.
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[melodic guitar music playing]
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[Stephen] Our finale, first of all,
looks really complicated,
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um, but what is this dish?
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It's a variation on one of two dishes
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that we know of
attributed to James Hemings.
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This is a snow egg.
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It's basically a creme anglaise,
or ice cream custard,
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with a poached egg white.
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-It's a beautiful dish.
-[Stephen] It's really beautiful.
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Yeah.
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[guitar music continues]
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[Brian] Mm-hmm.
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-Yum.
-[Brian] This is your best batch yet.
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Mm-hmm.
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[Stephen] Wow.
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Cool custard.
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Not too sweet.
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-I love the pomegranates for texture.
-[Martin] Right.
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[Stephen] Such a pleasure to eat.
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[overlapping chatter]
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What is it about the legacy
of these two chefs
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{\an8}that makes you compelled
to want to keep their work alive?
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{\an8}[Martin] I can probably name you
only a handful
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of other Black chefs in general,
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let alone ones that made
such a significant impact
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on the way we eat.
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So, it's important as a Black person
just to be able to tell their story.
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Unarguably, these two guys
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were two of the most important chefs
in American history,
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and they've never gotten
any credit for it.
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And, you know, as enthusiasts and chefs,
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we feel like it's kind of our duty,
now that we've dove in, to keep it going.
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[soft instrumental music playing]
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[chatting indistinctly]
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[Stephen] Both Hercules and James Hemings
were enslaved on plantations in Virginia.
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{\an8}My obsession with origins took me
to the state's Blue Ridge mountains,
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{\an8}where Thomas Jefferson built his home
on a sprawling estate he named Monticello.
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James Hemings came to Monticello
when he was nine years old
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with his family,
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including his younger sister,
Sally Hemings,
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who would later bear
at least six of Jefferson's children.
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[woman]
Monticello was a very large plantation.
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{\an8}Jefferson enslaved
607 people during his lifetime,
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{\an8}and 400 of those people
would've been on this plantation.
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[Stephen] Do we have any sense of what
enslaved people would have been eating?
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[Niya] Yeah. Jefferson was
a very meticulous record keeper.
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We have over 65,000 documents
with information
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-about this enslaved community.
-[Stephen] Wow.
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We know that Jefferson is only giving
meager rations for the enslaved community,
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so they had to grow gardens
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and they had to trap and hunt
to supplement their diet.
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[Stephen] So, James Hemings comes here
as a little boy?
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[Niya] That's right. James Hemings
comes here as part of an inheritance.
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He's Sally Hemings' older brother.
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And so they would have come here
as a family unit,
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along with members
of their extended family,
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to begin the work
that Jefferson set out for them.
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[Stephen] And at what point in his life
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does Jefferson decide
that he's well-suited for the kitchen?
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James was first
a body servant and a valet,
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and Jefferson is starting to identify
those traits within him that would,
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um, work well in the kitchen.
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And so when Jefferson serves
as a foreign minister in France,
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he takes 19-year-old Hemings with him
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and has him trained
in the art of French cooking.
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So, Jefferson has
kind of an outsized reputation
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as one of the nation's
first foodies or food lovers.
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[Niya] Jefferson is a man
who's got ambitious ideas
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about what it means to be American.
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And he does that in the architecture,
he does it with his design,
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and he does it especially through food.
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If you'd come to Monticello,
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you would get what has been described
as half-Virginian, half-French cuisine.
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Most Virginians hadn't been to France.
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Right? They hadn't had
these more delicate sauces
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and fine dishes
being served here at Monticello.
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[solemn classical music plays]
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[Stephen]
When James Hemings gets back from Paris,
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what is the deal he negotiates
with Jefferson?
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[Niya] So when they come back from Paris,
they go to Philadelphia.
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And James is working as a chef
there in Jefferson's household.
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Philadelphia has
a large free Black population.
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Um, and James ultimately decides
that he does want his freedom,
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and he negotiates with Jefferson.
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And Jefferson's response is,
"Well, I've spent a great deal of money
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having you trained to prepare
the food that I want served at my house.
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The only way you can have your freedom
is if you train someone else."
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And ultimately
that's James' younger brother.
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And so the key to his freedom
is that he returns to Monticello,
240
00:14:17,043 --> 00:14:19,379
trains his brother
to replace him in the kitchen
241
00:14:19,462 --> 00:14:20,964
before he can have that freedom.
242
00:14:23,174 --> 00:14:24,801
[solemn music continues]
243
00:14:25,886 --> 00:14:28,680
[Stephen] The kitchen where
James Hemings trained his brother Peter
244
00:14:28,763 --> 00:14:32,017
was, to my surprise,
still a working situation.
245
00:14:32,767 --> 00:14:36,521
And it was here that he popularized
foods like French fries,
246
00:14:36,605 --> 00:14:39,941
ice cream, and our country's
much beloved mac and cheese.
247
00:14:40,025 --> 00:14:42,903
[vibrant string music playing]
248
00:14:42,986 --> 00:14:44,821
Before we get into the mac and cheese,
249
00:14:44,905 --> 00:14:47,866
can you kind of orient me
around the kitchen
250
00:14:47,949 --> 00:14:50,744
about how things would have worked
in the 18th century?
251
00:14:50,827 --> 00:14:52,412
{\an8}In this kitchen,
252
00:14:52,495 --> 00:14:57,250
{\an8}the hearth is the main scene
that's happening.
253
00:14:57,334 --> 00:15:00,503
It's a place
where there would have been fire always,
254
00:15:00,587 --> 00:15:02,339
so you could do oven baking,
255
00:15:02,422 --> 00:15:05,216
um, so that you could roast meat
right in front of it.
256
00:15:05,300 --> 00:15:07,385
So, it's really the heart of the kitchen.
257
00:15:10,597 --> 00:15:14,684
And then you have this masonry unit
called a stew stove.
258
00:15:14,768 --> 00:15:21,483
They're made especially to be efficient
for creams, sauces, delicate frying.
259
00:15:24,486 --> 00:15:26,154
[Stephen] What are we making today?
260
00:15:26,237 --> 00:15:30,659
We are going to make macaroni pie,
is what they would have called it then.
261
00:15:32,786 --> 00:15:35,080
We, of course, call it mac and cheese.
262
00:15:35,163 --> 00:15:40,627
The standard, yummy dish
that we all love has a really old history.
263
00:15:42,295 --> 00:15:44,297
[gentle, bright music playing]
264
00:15:48,385 --> 00:15:50,095
[Stephen] You've got the noodles going.
265
00:15:50,178 --> 00:15:52,847
[Dr. Sorensen] Yes.
And in this particular recipe,
266
00:15:52,931 --> 00:15:55,392
we want to cook them well,
we want them tender,
267
00:15:55,475 --> 00:15:58,478
and they are being cooked
in half milk, half water,
268
00:15:58,561 --> 00:16:04,234
which is an interesting combination
that is very, very effective.
269
00:16:08,905 --> 00:16:11,950
-It already smells like mac and cheese…
-[Stephen] Absolutely.
270
00:16:12,033 --> 00:16:13,952
-…and that's because of the milk in it.
271
00:16:18,957 --> 00:16:19,874
Uh,
272
00:16:21,084 --> 00:16:24,254
a layer of the macaroni.
273
00:16:24,337 --> 00:16:26,506
You're going to layer your butter.
274
00:16:26,589 --> 00:16:29,592
And of course,
you could never use too much butter.
275
00:16:29,676 --> 00:16:32,846
[Stephen] So, how is it
that mac and cheese became ubiquitous,
276
00:16:32,929 --> 00:16:34,472
uh, through this kitchen?
277
00:16:34,973 --> 00:16:38,810
Well, it started, probably,
in this kitchen with James,
278
00:16:38,893 --> 00:16:40,061
but he passed it on,
279
00:16:40,145 --> 00:16:43,565
and it passed on through generations
of cooks who had cooked here.
280
00:16:43,648 --> 00:16:49,404
We know that Jefferson bought
pounds of raw macaroni
281
00:16:49,487 --> 00:16:52,282
six months before his death in 1826,
282
00:16:52,365 --> 00:16:57,037
so it must have been
a well-loved dish here.
283
00:16:57,120 --> 00:17:03,543
And it's hard to know sometimes
how food styles do and accrue,
284
00:17:03,626 --> 00:17:07,714
but James probably learned it in France.
285
00:17:09,049 --> 00:17:10,216
[Stephen] Smells great.
286
00:17:11,051 --> 00:17:14,304
[Dr. Sorensen] So we're gonna put it
in a Dutch oven.
287
00:17:15,180 --> 00:17:18,058
To sit on these very hard, hot bricks.
288
00:17:24,189 --> 00:17:25,190
Macaroni.
289
00:17:29,402 --> 00:17:31,696
Then we're going to put our lid.
290
00:17:33,281 --> 00:17:35,200
And we're going to add…
291
00:17:38,369 --> 00:17:40,121
-coals…
-Oh, okay.
292
00:17:40,205 --> 00:17:44,667
…to the top of this pan
so that the heat can
293
00:17:46,086 --> 00:17:48,254
bake all the way around.
294
00:17:52,425 --> 00:17:55,678
So, how dangerous was it
to do open-hearth cooking at that time?
295
00:17:55,762 --> 00:17:57,055
[Dr. Sorensen] Pretty dangerous.
296
00:17:57,138 --> 00:17:58,890
You know the old saw,
297
00:17:58,973 --> 00:18:01,267
"If you don't like the heat,
get out of the kitchen"?
298
00:18:01,351 --> 00:18:03,937
-[Stephen] Sure.
-There's that. It was always hot.
299
00:18:04,020 --> 00:18:06,147
The dangers, of course, are from burns.
300
00:18:06,231 --> 00:18:09,067
Women wore long clothing.
301
00:18:09,150 --> 00:18:12,153
Being burned
from their clothing catching on fire
302
00:18:12,237 --> 00:18:13,696
could really be a problem.
303
00:18:13,780 --> 00:18:15,698
[gentle music playing]
304
00:18:25,416 --> 00:18:27,293
[Stephen] All right, think it's ready?
305
00:18:27,377 --> 00:18:28,920
-Let's go. Okay.
-All right.
306
00:18:29,003 --> 00:18:31,714
So, our… pothook.
307
00:18:32,215 --> 00:18:37,178
We're going to, again,
lifting straight up and over.
308
00:18:38,054 --> 00:18:39,472
Oh, it's sizzling!
309
00:18:39,556 --> 00:18:40,807
[Stephen] It's beautiful.
310
00:18:48,815 --> 00:18:50,191
-[woman] Hi!
-[Stephen] Hi, Gayle.
311
00:18:50,275 --> 00:18:52,485
Wow. Look at that, that looks great.
312
00:18:52,569 --> 00:18:54,237
-Looks so good.
-[Dr. Sorensen] More butter.
313
00:18:54,320 --> 00:18:55,822
We've been making mac and cheese,
314
00:18:55,905 --> 00:18:58,741
and I understand that you are
a descendant of the Hemings.
315
00:18:58,825 --> 00:19:00,243
I am.
316
00:19:00,326 --> 00:19:03,705
{\an8}I am related to the entire Hemings family.
317
00:19:03,788 --> 00:19:06,541
{\an8}James Hemings would've been
my great-great-great-great uncle.
318
00:19:06,624 --> 00:19:09,669
His brother Peter was
my great-great-great grandfather.
319
00:19:09,752 --> 00:19:13,006
And so, I feel a special relationship
to this mac and cheese.
320
00:19:13,089 --> 00:19:15,466
-[Stephen] Rightfully so.
-[women chuckle]
321
00:19:15,550 --> 00:19:17,927
So you must have grown up
eating mac and cheese.
322
00:19:18,011 --> 00:19:19,220
We all did, didn't we?
323
00:19:19,304 --> 00:19:20,722
-Yeah, we all did, right?
-Yeah.
324
00:19:20,805 --> 00:19:23,474
And so, how did it feel once you realized
325
00:19:23,558 --> 00:19:26,936
that you were a descendant
of the person, or the family
326
00:19:27,020 --> 00:19:28,938
that helped popularize
this dish in the US?
327
00:19:29,022 --> 00:19:31,900
Well, first of all,
I didn't grow up with that knowledge.
328
00:19:31,983 --> 00:19:34,485
I didn't learn that until recently.
329
00:19:34,569 --> 00:19:37,405
And now that I know that,
I'm wondering where my royalties are.
330
00:19:37,488 --> 00:19:38,823
[all laughing]
331
00:19:38,907 --> 00:19:39,908
[Dr. Sorensen] Thank you.
332
00:19:39,991 --> 00:19:42,952
-We're all wondering that, actually.
-[all chuckle]
333
00:19:43,036 --> 00:19:47,498
[Gayle] Beyond that, listen,
it's really an honor.
334
00:19:47,582 --> 00:19:50,251
I'm lucky enough to know that history,
335
00:19:50,835 --> 00:19:55,673
but every Black American has
something like that in their backgrounds.
336
00:19:55,757 --> 00:19:57,550
They just don't know it.
337
00:19:57,634 --> 00:19:59,219
So, I'm honored, I'm privileged,
338
00:19:59,302 --> 00:20:01,471
and I can't wait
to taste this mac and cheese.
339
00:20:02,180 --> 00:20:04,766
-[Dr. Sorensen] If you will hand me…
-[Stephen] So good.
340
00:20:04,849 --> 00:20:07,018
-…our tasting dishes…
-[Gayle] Oh, boy.
341
00:20:07,101 --> 00:20:09,562
-…we will indulge ourselves.
342
00:20:09,646 --> 00:20:11,064
[Gayle] I'm so excited.
343
00:20:14,734 --> 00:20:16,194
[Stephen] Wow, looks so good.
344
00:20:16,277 --> 00:20:17,612
[Gayle] It does look good.
345
00:20:22,909 --> 00:20:25,078
-Mmm.
-[Gayle] Oh, it's so rich. Mmm.
346
00:20:25,161 --> 00:20:27,372
-[Stephen] Wow.
-[Dr. Sorensen] Mm-hmm.
347
00:20:27,455 --> 00:20:28,748
[Stephen] So creamy, too.
348
00:20:28,831 --> 00:20:31,542
And how old is this recipe, Leni?
349
00:20:31,626 --> 00:20:33,253
-Two hundred years old.
-[Stephen] Whoa!
350
00:20:33,336 --> 00:20:35,088
And probably older.
351
00:20:35,171 --> 00:20:37,006
Wow. You know what I love?
352
00:20:37,090 --> 00:20:38,967
Since you cooked it in the milk,
353
00:20:39,050 --> 00:20:40,718
there's a silkiness,
354
00:20:40,802 --> 00:20:42,470
a luxuriousness on the noodle.
355
00:20:42,553 --> 00:20:44,973
I'll have to cook mac and cheese
this way from now on.
356
00:20:45,056 --> 00:20:49,352
Yeah, no, I have begun doing that,
and I love it. I really love it.
357
00:20:50,478 --> 00:20:53,356
So, Gayle, what do you think
your ancestors would think
358
00:20:53,439 --> 00:20:56,567
about the fact that this dish
has become so popular?
359
00:20:56,651 --> 00:20:57,568
[Gayle] Gosh.
360
00:20:58,528 --> 00:21:01,698
Well, I'll tell you how I think about it.
361
00:21:01,781 --> 00:21:04,450
I'm kind of just blown away by the idea
362
00:21:04,534 --> 00:21:07,620
that my ancestors helped originate
363
00:21:07,704 --> 00:21:11,624
this dish in the United States of America,
which has become an American staple.
364
00:21:12,750 --> 00:21:15,503
I'm proud of the stamina they had,
365
00:21:15,586 --> 00:21:19,173
the determination they had,
the character they had.
366
00:21:19,716 --> 00:21:21,843
I don't think anyone can imagine
367
00:21:21,926 --> 00:21:25,179
what it would have been like
to live under those circumstances,
368
00:21:25,263 --> 00:21:28,725
knowing that you would never be free.
369
00:21:29,434 --> 00:21:32,937
And they survived and then some.
370
00:21:34,522 --> 00:21:36,774
Because I'm standing here today.
371
00:21:36,858 --> 00:21:39,027
-We're standing here today…
-[Dr. Sorensen] Mm-hmm.
372
00:21:39,110 --> 00:21:42,030
…and I get so emotional about this,
because of them,
373
00:21:42,113 --> 00:21:43,781
because of their strength.
374
00:21:43,865 --> 00:21:45,158
We stand on their shoulders.
375
00:21:45,241 --> 00:21:47,410
This is nice, I like mac and cheese.
376
00:21:47,493 --> 00:21:48,870
We can use it as a symbol,
377
00:21:48,953 --> 00:21:51,122
but let's think
of who those people really were,
378
00:21:51,205 --> 00:21:53,833
their strength,
their character, their endurance.
379
00:21:53,916 --> 00:21:55,752
So, yeah, I'm super proud.
380
00:21:57,378 --> 00:22:00,340
Not just because I'm descended from them,
381
00:22:00,423 --> 00:22:03,843
but because they represent the very best
382
00:22:03,926 --> 00:22:05,595
of the United States of America.
383
00:22:05,678 --> 00:22:07,680
[classical music playing]
384
00:22:09,932 --> 00:22:11,184
[Stephen] Leaving Monticello,
385
00:22:11,267 --> 00:22:13,603
I thought a lot
about what it must have been like
386
00:22:13,686 --> 00:22:16,564
for James Hemings to train his own brother
387
00:22:16,647 --> 00:22:18,149
in exchange for his freedom,
388
00:22:18,983 --> 00:22:21,903
{\an8}and what his life
must have been like afterwards.
389
00:22:23,279 --> 00:22:24,989
So, what happens to Hemings?
390
00:22:25,823 --> 00:22:29,911
[Adrian] So Hemings teaches not only
his brother Peter, but others,
391
00:22:29,994 --> 00:22:32,163
{\an8}at Monticello how to cook.
392
00:22:32,246 --> 00:22:34,040
{\an8}And then he's freed.
393
00:22:36,876 --> 00:22:38,961
He goes off to Philadelphia,
394
00:22:39,045 --> 00:22:41,297
and then eventually
he makes his way to Baltimore.
395
00:22:43,091 --> 00:22:45,134
What happens to him in Baltimore?
396
00:22:45,218 --> 00:22:48,721
[Adrian] He's either a caterer
or a restaurateur in Baltimore,
397
00:22:48,805 --> 00:22:49,889
stays there for a while,
398
00:22:49,972 --> 00:22:53,518
and then ultimately,
Jefferson gets news that he dies.
399
00:22:53,601 --> 00:22:55,228
He drinks himself to death.
400
00:22:57,647 --> 00:23:01,609
Now, some historians argue
about whether that happened or not,
401
00:23:01,692 --> 00:23:05,154
if it was suicide or just
an accidental drinking himself to death,
402
00:23:05,238 --> 00:23:07,115
but he ultimately ended up dying.
403
00:23:10,284 --> 00:23:13,663
I'm convinced that he would have been
Jefferson's White House chef
404
00:23:13,746 --> 00:23:17,834
had he stayed alive a few months longer.
I think he would have made a play for him.
405
00:23:17,917 --> 00:23:20,128
He had invested so much in Hemings
406
00:23:20,211 --> 00:23:23,256
and really respected his talent,
and loved his food.
407
00:23:24,507 --> 00:23:27,593
[Stephen] So, this is a Virginia ham,
of course.
408
00:23:27,677 --> 00:23:29,637
Is this something
that would have been served
409
00:23:29,720 --> 00:23:32,765
to Jefferson and Washington
by their enslaved chefs?
410
00:23:32,849 --> 00:23:37,478
Absolutely. So, Virginia hams are famous
in their time, as well as now.
411
00:23:37,562 --> 00:23:40,815
And when a president entertained,
they wanted to show the very best
412
00:23:40,898 --> 00:23:43,192
of what they had to offer
from their home state,
413
00:23:43,276 --> 00:23:45,403
and Virginia hams
had that kind of reputation.
414
00:23:45,486 --> 00:23:48,072
-Mm-hmm.
-[Adrian] In addition to Virginia hams,
415
00:23:48,156 --> 00:23:51,534
you could have had beef, fish,
other kind of well-regarded dish,
416
00:23:51,617 --> 00:23:54,745
but certainly Virginia ham
had celebrity status.
417
00:23:54,829 --> 00:23:56,330
Well, should we try some?
418
00:23:56,414 --> 00:23:58,040
-[Adrian] Absolutely!
-All right.
419
00:24:09,719 --> 00:24:10,553
[Adrian] Nice.
420
00:24:10,636 --> 00:24:12,930
-Good stuff, right?
-That's what I'm talking about.
421
00:24:13,431 --> 00:24:16,726
[Stephen] So, Hercules,
who is Washington's enslaved chef.
422
00:24:16,809 --> 00:24:18,811
What ends up happening with him?
423
00:24:19,228 --> 00:24:22,356
[Adrian] There's indications
that towards the end of his second term,
424
00:24:22,440 --> 00:24:26,360
Washington does start to suspect
that Hercules might try to escape.
425
00:24:26,444 --> 00:24:28,905
He actually sends Hercules
back to Mount Vernon.
426
00:24:28,988 --> 00:24:33,367
There are records that he's actually doing
hard labor in the fields at Mount Vernon.
427
00:24:33,451 --> 00:24:34,785
Hercules wants to be free.
428
00:24:34,869 --> 00:24:38,122
So, he waits
until Washington's 65th birthday.
429
00:24:38,206 --> 00:24:40,208
There was a big celebration planned,
430
00:24:40,291 --> 00:24:43,169
and while all that was going on,
he disappears.
431
00:24:43,252 --> 00:24:47,173
Washington, who had a volcanic temper,
was really upset about this.
432
00:24:47,256 --> 00:24:48,883
He's writing letters to associates.
433
00:24:48,966 --> 00:24:51,677
He's just trying to find out
Hercules' whereabouts,
434
00:24:51,761 --> 00:24:54,639
even a year after Hercules escapes.
435
00:24:54,722 --> 00:24:56,390
They just never catch up to him.
436
00:24:56,474 --> 00:25:00,686
It's really not until 1801,
the same year that Hemings dies,
437
00:25:00,770 --> 00:25:04,982
that Hercules is spotted in New York City
by the Mayor of New York City,
438
00:25:05,066 --> 00:25:07,109
who used to work with Washington.
439
00:25:07,193 --> 00:25:09,028
And he alerts Martha Washington,
440
00:25:09,111 --> 00:25:11,572
because Washington had already died
by this point,
441
00:25:11,656 --> 00:25:15,159
about Hercules' whereabouts,
but that's the last we hear of Hercules.
442
00:25:16,577 --> 00:25:19,038
[Stephen] We don't know
what happens to Hercules,
443
00:25:19,121 --> 00:25:21,582
but there is
some recent evidence that suggests
444
00:25:21,666 --> 00:25:23,209
that he was here in New York City?
445
00:25:23,292 --> 00:25:28,381
Right, so thanks to some dogged research
by a crack genealogist and some others,
446
00:25:28,464 --> 00:25:31,092
we find out
that Hercules was in New York City,
447
00:25:31,175 --> 00:25:36,013
he took on the name of his previous
slaveholder before Washington,
448
00:25:36,097 --> 00:25:37,431
a guy named John Posey.
449
00:25:37,515 --> 00:25:39,433
So he called himself Hercules Posey.
450
00:25:39,517 --> 00:25:42,520
We know that he lived
in various places in New York,
451
00:25:42,603 --> 00:25:45,815
and was listed as a cook and a laborer,
452
00:25:45,898 --> 00:25:50,069
and he ends up dying on May 15,
1812 of consumption,
453
00:25:50,152 --> 00:25:52,989
which is what we would call
tuberculosis to this day.
454
00:25:53,072 --> 00:25:57,243
So his remains are believed
buried somewhere in New York City.
455
00:25:57,326 --> 00:25:58,953
We don't know exactly where,
456
00:25:59,036 --> 00:26:01,497
but he did spend his final days
in New York City.
457
00:26:02,039 --> 00:26:04,125
So he's still here with us, somewhere.
458
00:26:04,208 --> 00:26:08,004
[Adrian] He's still here with us, I think
it's a wonderful metaphor for his life,
459
00:26:08,087 --> 00:26:10,673
and also these esteemed
African American cooks,
460
00:26:10,756 --> 00:26:13,342
because in many ways
they're still hiding in plain sight,
461
00:26:13,426 --> 00:26:16,429
not fully accepted, not fully recognized.
462
00:26:16,512 --> 00:26:19,265
And part of our endeavors here
463
00:26:19,348 --> 00:26:22,226
is to really show
their contributions to American cuisine,
464
00:26:22,310 --> 00:26:26,439
and show how much they were foundational
to the foods that we love today.
465
00:26:34,113 --> 00:26:36,824
[Stephen] Hercules was not
the only culinary legend
466
00:26:36,907 --> 00:26:39,744
whose contributions were lost
to the shadows of New York City.
467
00:26:41,454 --> 00:26:44,999
As I dug further
into food history in the Big Apple,
468
00:26:45,082 --> 00:26:47,710
I discovered that back in the 1800s,
469
00:26:47,793 --> 00:26:49,670
oysters were the biggest game in town.
470
00:26:50,880 --> 00:26:54,425
And it was a free Black man
named Thomas Downing
471
00:26:54,508 --> 00:26:57,970
who built an empire
in the heart of Wall Street
472
00:26:58,054 --> 00:27:01,140
and was known
as the oyster king of the city.
473
00:27:04,560 --> 00:27:06,062
{\an8}"Recipe for New York Oyster Stew,
474
00:27:06,145 --> 00:27:08,606
{\an8}circa 1826, for Thomas Downing."
475
00:27:09,899 --> 00:27:11,484
[Stephen] My friend, chef Omar Tate,
476
00:27:11,567 --> 00:27:15,196
has dedicated
his craft and art to Thomas Downing
477
00:27:15,279 --> 00:27:18,115
and other Black entrepreneurs
of the Mid-Atlantic states.
478
00:27:20,534 --> 00:27:23,663
[Omar] "Made from hand-gathered oysters,
as many as one can carry.
479
00:27:23,746 --> 00:27:25,539
Sea salt and lime and mineral deposits
480
00:27:25,623 --> 00:27:27,917
displayed high as the galoshes
and then some.
481
00:27:29,251 --> 00:27:31,087
Cook time, several moons.
482
00:27:34,090 --> 00:27:35,925
Add cream and allow it to reduce.
483
00:27:36,008 --> 00:27:39,136
Reduce it 'til there's nothing but brown.
Rich and plenty.
484
00:27:39,220 --> 00:27:41,722
Until it reduces and it's no longer white.
485
00:27:41,806 --> 00:27:43,391
Until it reduces your suffering.
486
00:27:43,474 --> 00:27:46,268
Until it reduces the time between
when you last saw your wife,
487
00:27:46,352 --> 00:27:47,853
children, mother.
488
00:27:47,937 --> 00:27:49,980
Reduce it down, slow, patient.
489
00:27:53,651 --> 00:27:54,485
Pro tip.
490
00:27:55,069 --> 00:27:56,278
Watch carefully.
491
00:27:56,362 --> 00:27:58,197
Cream rises and spills over.
492
00:27:58,280 --> 00:28:00,324
Serve hot, immediately."
493
00:28:04,578 --> 00:28:06,872
[Stephen] For the last ten years or so,
494
00:28:06,956 --> 00:28:09,917
you've been cooking
in some of the best restaurants
495
00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:11,293
in New York and Philly.
496
00:28:11,877 --> 00:28:14,880
So, what's, kind of,
your mission as a chef?
497
00:28:14,964 --> 00:28:17,383
I label myself as Black heritage cooking,
498
00:28:17,466 --> 00:28:20,386
and I'm trying to de-frame what it is,
499
00:28:20,469 --> 00:28:23,514
as African Americans,
we can put out there in the food space.
500
00:28:23,597 --> 00:28:28,978
I think oftentimes
when people look at Black foodways,
501
00:28:29,061 --> 00:28:32,565
as a chef, people assume
"Okay, Southern food, fried chicken."
502
00:28:32,648 --> 00:28:34,608
There are many more stories to tell.
503
00:28:36,360 --> 00:28:38,446
[Stephen] One of the explorations
504
00:28:38,529 --> 00:28:41,991
that you've jumped off on
is Thomas Downing.
505
00:28:42,533 --> 00:28:44,535
[folk guitar plays]
506
00:28:45,828 --> 00:28:48,664
[Omar] Thomas Downing was a man
who built up
507
00:28:48,748 --> 00:28:51,709
one of the best oyster restaurants
in New York City on Wall Street
508
00:28:51,792 --> 00:28:53,669
in the 19th century to mid-19th century,
509
00:28:53,753 --> 00:28:58,090
during a time when most African Americans
in this country were still enslaved.
510
00:29:00,050 --> 00:29:04,138
It's just like a phenomenal story
that people don't know about.
511
00:29:04,221 --> 00:29:05,306
[Stephen] As an oyster town,
512
00:29:05,389 --> 00:29:08,225
there's oysters,
you know, piled on the streets,
513
00:29:08,309 --> 00:29:10,352
there's oyster shells on the sidewalk.
514
00:29:10,436 --> 00:29:15,316
We've been using oyster shells to make
some of the mortar for buildings.
515
00:29:15,399 --> 00:29:16,233
[Omar] Yup.
516
00:29:16,317 --> 00:29:19,320
So this is the environment
that Downing walks into, right?
517
00:29:19,403 --> 00:29:22,031
[Omar] Yeah. But he starts out
collecting and harvesting,
518
00:29:22,114 --> 00:29:25,451
and then selling as an individual,
519
00:29:25,534 --> 00:29:27,203
and then builds off of that.
520
00:29:28,037 --> 00:29:29,914
People were selling oysters outside.
521
00:29:30,414 --> 00:29:34,794
So basically, like a hot dog stand
equivalent of the day.
522
00:29:34,877 --> 00:29:36,337
Exactly. Yeah.
523
00:29:36,420 --> 00:29:38,547
I read that, at the time,
524
00:29:38,631 --> 00:29:41,884
New Yorkers, on average,
were eating 600 oysters a year.
525
00:29:41,967 --> 00:29:42,802
[Omar chuckles]
526
00:29:42,885 --> 00:29:46,931
What were they, like,
a half a penny, you know, at that time?
527
00:29:47,014 --> 00:29:48,224
What a luxury.
528
00:29:48,307 --> 00:29:50,935
Well, should we…
529
00:29:51,018 --> 00:29:53,938
-explore the culinary side of your work?
-[Omar laughs]
530
00:29:55,397 --> 00:29:56,982
[lively strings play]
531
00:29:57,066 --> 00:29:59,527
[Omar] I mean,
particularly with this dish, um,
532
00:29:59,610 --> 00:30:03,906
because Thomas Downing is unique
and very specific to the New York story,
533
00:30:03,989 --> 00:30:07,451
I wanted to bring together things specific
and unique to New York in general.
534
00:30:07,535 --> 00:30:10,454
So, this dish,
there are two applications of oysters.
535
00:30:10,538 --> 00:30:13,249
Oyster stew was very popular
in the 19th century.
536
00:30:13,332 --> 00:30:17,253
[Stephen] So, the soup has cream, thyme,
537
00:30:17,336 --> 00:30:18,546
a little bit of…
538
00:30:18,629 --> 00:30:20,923
[Omar] Yeah. Cream, thyme, black pepper,
539
00:30:21,006 --> 00:30:23,175
oyster fat,
which is a very special component.
540
00:30:23,259 --> 00:30:27,555
It's oysters that got poached
at, like, 140 degrees for several hours,
541
00:30:27,638 --> 00:30:32,059
blended until
all the flavors lend itself into the oil.
542
00:30:32,142 --> 00:30:36,397
It's a very clean, pure oyster flavor
that I use to cook the vegetables down in.
543
00:30:36,480 --> 00:30:39,900
The vegetables are
garlic, onion and celery.
544
00:30:39,984 --> 00:30:43,070
So, it's just like
layers of oyster on top of itself.
545
00:30:43,153 --> 00:30:44,655
[Stephen] Oyster on oyster.
546
00:30:44,738 --> 00:30:46,949
All right, well, bon appetit to us.
547
00:30:47,032 --> 00:30:48,158
[Omar] Cheers, man.
548
00:30:49,159 --> 00:30:50,703
-Cheers.
-[laughs]
549
00:30:54,206 --> 00:30:55,082
Oh, wow.
550
00:30:55,165 --> 00:30:56,292
Yeah, what do you think?
551
00:30:56,375 --> 00:30:57,918
It's so good, man.
552
00:30:58,002 --> 00:31:02,298
I really taste
the richness of that oyster fat.
553
00:31:02,381 --> 00:31:06,802
It adds such an intensity
and complexity to the soup.
554
00:31:06,886 --> 00:31:08,512
I'm very happy with this.
555
00:31:08,596 --> 00:31:09,638
-[Omar laughs]
-Right?
556
00:31:09,722 --> 00:31:11,098
This is actually the first time
557
00:31:11,181 --> 00:31:13,434
I'm sitting and eating this
with a person, so… [laughs]
558
00:31:13,517 --> 00:31:15,269
I'm just as excited as you.
559
00:31:19,231 --> 00:31:20,232
Mmm.
560
00:31:20,941 --> 00:31:22,276
I love the apple there.
561
00:31:22,943 --> 00:31:24,570
That's so refreshing to eat.
562
00:31:25,237 --> 00:31:26,280
[Omar] Very good.
563
00:31:26,363 --> 00:31:27,197
Very good.
564
00:31:27,281 --> 00:31:31,452
Mmm. It tastes like limestone
and herbs, and apple.
565
00:31:32,411 --> 00:31:34,914
Let's talk a little bit more
about him as a restaurateur,
566
00:31:34,997 --> 00:31:37,583
-[Omar] Mm-hmm.
-because from what I understand, you know,
567
00:31:37,666 --> 00:31:40,252
obviously there's a lot of oyster taverns
back in the day.
568
00:31:40,336 --> 00:31:43,881
But his restaurant is a place where,
569
00:31:43,964 --> 00:31:47,968
you know, bankers, attorneys,
politicians are all coming to eat.
570
00:31:48,052 --> 00:31:50,971
One hundred percent.
I mean, in my opinion,
571
00:31:51,055 --> 00:31:53,682
Thomas Downing walked
into the dive bar scene and was like,
572
00:31:53,766 --> 00:31:55,809
"We need a cocktail lounge."
Know what I mean?
573
00:31:57,394 --> 00:31:59,480
[Stephen] The story is pretty amazing,
574
00:31:59,563 --> 00:32:03,567
because in the basement
of this extremely fancy restaurant,
575
00:32:03,651 --> 00:32:06,779
Thomas Downing and his son George
576
00:32:06,862 --> 00:32:12,242
are helping to harbor folks
who have run away from slavery.
577
00:32:12,326 --> 00:32:13,160
[Omar] Right.
578
00:32:13,243 --> 00:32:14,912
[Stephen] And the juxtaposition of that
579
00:32:14,995 --> 00:32:18,540
just makes Downing, to me,
one of the iconic--
580
00:32:18,624 --> 00:32:20,042
-He's a superhero.
-Really.
581
00:32:20,125 --> 00:32:21,752
I love that part of his story.
582
00:32:21,835 --> 00:32:25,798
He's able to navigate
those two worlds so seamlessly.
583
00:32:25,881 --> 00:32:28,550
So much so that when he dies,
584
00:32:28,634 --> 00:32:30,928
the Chamber of Commerce
shuts down for the day.
585
00:32:31,011 --> 00:32:32,179
Right.
586
00:32:32,262 --> 00:32:35,224
I mean, the rumor…
There's like 1,000 people at his funeral.
587
00:32:35,307 --> 00:32:36,892
I mean, wow, right?
588
00:32:36,976 --> 00:32:41,271
But why do you feel like it's so important
to keep his work and his legacy alive?
589
00:32:41,897 --> 00:32:44,024
I never had an oyster
until I was 22 years old.
590
00:32:44,108 --> 00:32:44,942
[Stephen] Wow.
591
00:32:45,025 --> 00:32:48,487
[Omar] And I only experienced them
because I became a professional cook
592
00:32:48,570 --> 00:32:51,156
and started working
at a fine-dining restaurant in Philly.
593
00:32:51,240 --> 00:32:54,368
And so, we were serving only white folks,
594
00:32:54,451 --> 00:32:57,454
so oysters seemed to be
only for white folks to me, you know?
595
00:32:57,538 --> 00:33:01,291
For me, it was about reclaiming that,
596
00:33:01,375 --> 00:33:05,004
because not only is it our history,
597
00:33:05,087 --> 00:33:08,465
but the fine part of it
is our history as well.
598
00:33:08,549 --> 00:33:12,219
And Thomas Downing is completely
and 100% responsible for that.
599
00:33:15,597 --> 00:33:18,726
[Stephen] But Thomas Downing
wouldn't have been at the top of his game
600
00:33:18,809 --> 00:33:21,729
without the working-class
Black oystermen that supported him.
601
00:33:22,479 --> 00:33:26,275
{\an8}And they built their community
on the water's edge of Staten Island
602
00:33:26,358 --> 00:33:28,318
{\an8}and called it "Sandy Ground."
603
00:33:31,321 --> 00:33:36,243
Can you tell me what made
Sandy Ground so special historically?
604
00:33:38,078 --> 00:33:43,459
{\an8}Sandy Ground is the oldest continuously
inhabited African American community
605
00:33:43,542 --> 00:33:45,169
{\an8}in the United States,
606
00:33:45,252 --> 00:33:49,923
settled by free Blacks with descendants
still living in the community.
607
00:33:54,344 --> 00:33:57,222
New York supplied the world with oysters,
608
00:33:57,306 --> 00:33:59,558
and as an oystering community,
609
00:33:59,641 --> 00:34:02,561
it grew to 180 families,
610
00:34:03,103 --> 00:34:05,355
two churches, and two schools.
611
00:34:05,439 --> 00:34:09,276
Right out here
on the south shore of Staten Island.
612
00:34:10,194 --> 00:34:14,448
They were able to harvest
enough oysters to be able to live and,
613
00:34:15,616 --> 00:34:17,826
you know,
take care of their families.
614
00:34:20,329 --> 00:34:23,832
Growing up in Sandy Ground
gave me the confidence that I needed
615
00:34:23,916 --> 00:34:26,418
to step out wherever I wanted to go.
616
00:34:26,502 --> 00:34:30,923
And so that oyster community,
617
00:34:31,006 --> 00:34:34,218
with all those people
that looked just like me,
618
00:34:34,301 --> 00:34:37,763
helped me to know that I could be
whatever I wanted to be.
619
00:34:37,846 --> 00:34:38,764
[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
620
00:34:39,681 --> 00:34:42,684
That's such an important part
of our legacy, too.
621
00:34:43,268 --> 00:34:44,144
I think,
622
00:34:45,020 --> 00:34:48,857
often when we talk about our ancestors
and our history,
623
00:34:49,566 --> 00:34:53,695
we tend to talk about them
in a way that makes it feel like
624
00:34:53,779 --> 00:34:56,240
-we have all been erased.
-Mm-hmm.
625
00:34:56,323 --> 00:34:59,618
And what's more true
is what you're saying, is that
626
00:34:59,701 --> 00:35:01,870
their legacies live in us.
627
00:35:01,954 --> 00:35:07,167
Sandy Ground is included in the state
and national registers of historic places.
628
00:35:07,251 --> 00:35:11,421
So there will always be a record
for somebody who wants to look for it.
629
00:35:12,297 --> 00:35:15,801
Communities change,
but the history remains the same.
630
00:35:18,595 --> 00:35:19,972
[gentle guitar plays]
631
00:35:29,523 --> 00:35:31,525
[Stephen] When I think
about New York City,
632
00:35:31,608 --> 00:35:33,068
I think about ambition.
633
00:35:35,154 --> 00:35:39,449
And the spirit of Thomas Downing
and the Black oystermen was alive and well
634
00:35:39,533 --> 00:35:41,118
in the heart of Brooklyn,
635
00:35:42,202 --> 00:35:44,204
in "do or die" Bed-Stuy.
636
00:35:44,913 --> 00:35:46,915
[gentle music continues]
637
00:35:58,594 --> 00:36:00,470
-Hey, what's up, guys?
-[man] Mothershuckers.
638
00:36:00,554 --> 00:36:02,639
-[woman] Mothershuckers.
-[Ben] Wanna try some oysters?
639
00:36:02,723 --> 00:36:03,724
-Yeah.
-[Ben] Yeah?
640
00:36:03,807 --> 00:36:05,267
[woman] I've never had an oyster.
641
00:36:05,809 --> 00:36:06,643
All right.
642
00:36:07,352 --> 00:36:09,104
-There you guys go.
-Thank you.
643
00:36:10,230 --> 00:36:11,106
Yo.
644
00:36:12,649 --> 00:36:14,026
-Very fresh.
-[man] This is good.
645
00:36:15,569 --> 00:36:16,486
I'm here for it.
646
00:36:17,112 --> 00:36:20,824
Ben Harney is better known out here
as "the real mothershucker,"
647
00:36:20,908 --> 00:36:23,619
and his oyster cart
takes it all the way back
648
00:36:23,702 --> 00:36:26,205
to the beginning
of Thomas Downing's legacy.
649
00:36:26,830 --> 00:36:28,999
Yo, what's up, guys?
You want to try some oysters?
650
00:36:29,082 --> 00:36:31,627
-[man 1] Let's do this.
-[man 2] I'll take it. I'll try an oyster.
651
00:36:31,710 --> 00:36:33,754
-Hell, yeah. That's what's up.
-Little oysters.
652
00:36:33,837 --> 00:36:35,672
Oysters raise your libido.
653
00:36:35,756 --> 00:36:38,008
-That's the rumor. Right?
-Yeah, is it true?
654
00:36:38,091 --> 00:36:39,426
[Ben] That's what everybody says.
655
00:36:39,509 --> 00:36:42,095
[man 1] We got the brother
with his oysters.
656
00:36:42,179 --> 00:36:43,013
That's it.
657
00:36:43,096 --> 00:36:46,767
Let me tell you, this is my first time
eating an oyster, you know that, right?
658
00:36:46,850 --> 00:36:48,560
I hope you'll be able to swallow it.
659
00:36:48,644 --> 00:36:49,686
[Ben] Don't worry about it.
660
00:36:49,811 --> 00:36:51,688
[man 1] Yeah, they got a brother
selling oyster.
661
00:36:51,772 --> 00:36:55,442
-It better not be nasty. We can cook.
-[Ben] We're not allowed to do that.
662
00:36:55,525 --> 00:36:58,445
-[man 2] In your mouth, like a shovel.
-[Ben] Throw it back.
663
00:36:58,528 --> 00:36:59,780
Just put it down.
664
00:36:59,863 --> 00:37:03,033
-You put fear in me. I'm telling you.
-Ain't nothing to be scared of.
665
00:37:03,116 --> 00:37:04,284
-You ready?
-[man 2] Yeah, you?
666
00:37:04,368 --> 00:37:06,662
We're doing this for Brooklyn
because we in Brooklyn.
667
00:37:06,745 --> 00:37:09,790
-That's my guy. I like-- This my guy.
-One, two, three. Let's go.
668
00:37:10,707 --> 00:37:11,541
[man 2] Mmm!
669
00:37:13,293 --> 00:37:15,629
Tastes like outside. Like the ocean.
670
00:37:15,712 --> 00:37:17,172
-That's official.
-[Ben] Mm-hmm.
671
00:37:18,715 --> 00:37:23,929
So how many people have you
put on to oysters for the first time?
672
00:37:24,012 --> 00:37:29,017
Yo! Across the board,
men, women, children, you know?
673
00:37:29,101 --> 00:37:31,436
{\an8}It's one of my favorite things to do,
674
00:37:31,520 --> 00:37:33,939
{\an8}is to stop somebody and be like,
"You want an oyster?"
675
00:37:34,022 --> 00:37:35,565
{\an8}And they're like, "Ew, oysters?"
676
00:37:35,649 --> 00:37:38,068
And then I'm like,
"Have you ever had an oyster?"
677
00:37:38,151 --> 00:37:41,238
And they're like,
"No… but I don't like them."
678
00:37:41,321 --> 00:37:43,865
"How do you know you don't
if you've never tried it?"
679
00:37:43,949 --> 00:37:45,826
[Stephen] So, talk to me about the name.
680
00:37:45,909 --> 00:37:47,536
-You got a great name…
-[Ben chuckles]
681
00:37:47,619 --> 00:37:48,870
…the Real Mothershuckers.
682
00:37:48,954 --> 00:37:52,207
I was always going out places,
and people always would be like,
683
00:37:52,291 --> 00:37:54,167
"So you're a bad mothershucker, huh?"
684
00:37:54,251 --> 00:37:55,877
It was the constant joke, you know?
685
00:37:55,961 --> 00:37:57,504
So after a while, I was just like,
686
00:37:57,587 --> 00:38:01,717
"You know what? That actually fits,
it sounds good, and it's simple."
687
00:38:01,800 --> 00:38:03,260
I'm a mothershucker!
688
00:38:03,343 --> 00:38:05,804
-[Stephen] Yeah, no. Strong name.
-You know? Yeah.
689
00:38:05,887 --> 00:38:08,015
[Stephen] Cool, well,
should we taste some?
690
00:38:08,098 --> 00:38:10,267
-[Ben] Hell, yeah. Yeah.
-[Stephen] Okay.
691
00:38:10,350 --> 00:38:12,436
[Stephen] Do you have a ritual,
should we cheers it?
692
00:38:12,519 --> 00:38:14,563
-Yeah, cheers.
-[Stephen] All right, cool. Cheers.
693
00:38:14,646 --> 00:38:15,522
Thank you.
694
00:38:20,610 --> 00:38:21,778
[Stephen] Mmm.
695
00:38:22,654 --> 00:38:24,114
-Think about that?
-I like that a lot.
696
00:38:24,197 --> 00:38:25,407
[Ben] Mm-hmm.
697
00:38:25,490 --> 00:38:26,867
-Upside down.
-Mm-hmm.
698
00:38:26,950 --> 00:38:28,368
Mmm.
699
00:38:28,452 --> 00:38:29,494
It goes down easily.
700
00:38:30,078 --> 00:38:32,247
All right, I'm going to do
a mignonette one now.
701
00:38:39,046 --> 00:38:40,380
-Oh, that's real good.
-Right?
702
00:38:41,340 --> 00:38:43,216
It's got a nice little bite to it,
703
00:38:43,300 --> 00:38:45,218
something you can actually chew.
704
00:38:45,302 --> 00:38:47,304
-Yeah, it's got a little bounce. Yeah.
-Mm-hmm.
705
00:38:47,387 --> 00:38:52,726
Why was it important for you to come
to Bed-Stuy to start your oyster cart?
706
00:38:52,809 --> 00:38:56,772
[Ben] This is where I'm from and now,
the area has erupted,
707
00:38:56,855 --> 00:39:00,442
it's literally become
the happening place to be.
708
00:39:00,525 --> 00:39:04,905
And so, for me, introducing oysters
into the area that I grew up
709
00:39:04,988 --> 00:39:06,698
and to the people that I grew up with,
710
00:39:06,782 --> 00:39:09,659
is something
that's really important because
711
00:39:09,743 --> 00:39:12,704
it's always been seen
as somewhat of an elitist thing.
712
00:39:12,788 --> 00:39:16,750
Our people are familiar with crabs,
713
00:39:16,833 --> 00:39:18,585
they're familiar with shrimp,
714
00:39:18,668 --> 00:39:22,339
they're familiar with lobster,
and they'll go crazy for them.
715
00:39:22,422 --> 00:39:23,799
But oysters, and it's like,
716
00:39:23,882 --> 00:39:26,593
"Ew, we don't do that.
We don't eat that." You know?
717
00:39:26,676 --> 00:39:30,472
And I'm just like, why? We do everything.
There's nothing that we don't do.
718
00:39:30,555 --> 00:39:33,934
There's nothing that's not our thing,
you know?
719
00:39:41,942 --> 00:39:43,527
[Stephen] I'm continually amazed
720
00:39:43,610 --> 00:39:48,156
by the force of our creativity
and determination as Black Americans.
721
00:39:48,240 --> 00:39:54,413
And in the 19th century, few places held
more possibility for us than Philadelphia.
722
00:39:55,705 --> 00:39:57,749
We were free here some 80 years
723
00:39:57,833 --> 00:40:00,544
before the Emancipation Proclamation
was issued.
724
00:40:02,504 --> 00:40:04,589
{\an8}And Philly was home to a rich legacy
725
00:40:04,673 --> 00:40:06,550
of Black entrepreneurship,
726
00:40:06,633 --> 00:40:10,095
from street vendors hawking
the famous pepper pot stew,
727
00:40:10,178 --> 00:40:13,056
to the elite families of Black caterers.
728
00:40:16,476 --> 00:40:20,689
So, we're in Philly,
a place that you have roots with.
729
00:40:20,772 --> 00:40:22,524
{\an8}Can you tell me about your family?
730
00:40:22,607 --> 00:40:27,279
{\an8}Yes, so I come from one of the great
Black catering families of Philadelphia.
731
00:40:27,362 --> 00:40:29,573
I didn't know
before doing a lot of this research
732
00:40:29,656 --> 00:40:32,784
that catering was started
by African Americans,
733
00:40:32,868 --> 00:40:34,911
great entrepreneurs in the 1800s,
734
00:40:34,995 --> 00:40:38,248
and my family was
one of those first pioneers of that,
735
00:40:38,331 --> 00:40:39,207
the Dutrieuilles.
736
00:40:39,291 --> 00:40:42,711
This is one of the first photos
I saw of the family that I was like,
737
00:40:42,794 --> 00:40:45,422
-"Wait a minute. People looked like this?"
-[chuckles] Yes.
738
00:40:45,505 --> 00:40:47,591
"How come we don't know more?
What's her story?
739
00:40:47,674 --> 00:40:49,843
Where'd she come from?
What are they doing?"
740
00:40:49,926 --> 00:40:51,052
So I love this photo.
741
00:40:51,136 --> 00:40:53,722
-[Stephen] She looks amazing. Yeah.
-It says so much.
742
00:40:53,805 --> 00:40:57,100
This is my great-great grandfather,
Albert Dutrieuille.
743
00:40:57,184 --> 00:40:59,519
-[Stephen] Very handsome man.
-[Lauren chuckles] Yeah.
744
00:40:59,603 --> 00:41:01,480
I love this, this is a good kitchen shot.
745
00:41:01,563 --> 00:41:06,401
It gives you a glimpse of the staff
and how things were in the kitchen then.
746
00:41:06,485 --> 00:41:09,154
[Stephen] And the scale too,
it's a really large kitchen.
747
00:41:09,237 --> 00:41:12,449
-[Lauren] Yeah.
-They're obviously quite organized.
748
00:41:12,532 --> 00:41:14,618
-Everyone looks crispy in the uniforms.
-Right.
749
00:41:15,452 --> 00:41:16,453
[Stephen] Love that.
750
00:41:17,537 --> 00:41:19,623
And how did you find this out?
751
00:41:19,706 --> 00:41:23,793
Well, my dad first sent me
a photo that he found with, you know,
752
00:41:23,877 --> 00:41:26,087
this family in, like, fancy furs and cars.
753
00:41:26,171 --> 00:41:27,506
And he's like, it turns out
754
00:41:27,589 --> 00:41:31,676
my grandmother's parents had
this successful catering business.
755
00:41:31,760 --> 00:41:34,804
I thought, "That was really cool."
And I thought it stopped there.
756
00:41:34,888 --> 00:41:38,975
And then last year,
a cousin of my dad passed away.
757
00:41:39,059 --> 00:41:40,602
He was living in a home
758
00:41:40,685 --> 00:41:43,063
where the catering business
was run out of.
759
00:41:43,146 --> 00:41:45,232
He was telling me
about going into the basement
760
00:41:45,315 --> 00:41:47,442
and seeing all of the catering supplies.
761
00:41:48,235 --> 00:41:49,861
And I was just like, "Wait, hold up.
762
00:41:49,945 --> 00:41:51,696
-This house was still in the family…
-Yeah?
763
00:41:51,780 --> 00:41:54,199
…and there was still
catering stuff lying around?"
764
00:41:54,282 --> 00:41:57,118
First question I asked him was like,
"Are there any menus?"
765
00:41:57,202 --> 00:41:59,538
Being a foodie
and being in the food scene,
766
00:41:59,621 --> 00:42:03,166
I was just like, I need to get my hands
on a menu to recreate this experience.
767
00:42:03,250 --> 00:42:05,460
Honeydew melon
showed up on a lot of menus.
768
00:42:05,544 --> 00:42:08,129
Bellevue broth,
that was on plenty of menus
769
00:42:08,213 --> 00:42:09,339
that they put together.
770
00:42:09,422 --> 00:42:12,133
Virginia ham and greens,
you've got some Southern influence.
771
00:42:12,217 --> 00:42:14,678
Frankfurters and kraut,
I thought that was interesting.
772
00:42:14,761 --> 00:42:17,180
[Stephen] Yeah,
kind of German influences there, right?
773
00:42:17,264 --> 00:42:18,181
[Lauren] Right.
774
00:42:18,265 --> 00:42:22,018
They range from, like, really simple
to pretty decadent with, like, caviar,
775
00:42:22,102 --> 00:42:24,104
filet mignon, stuffed peppers.
776
00:42:24,187 --> 00:42:25,981
It was-- It was really cool.
777
00:42:26,064 --> 00:42:27,857
You know, I'm struck by the menu,
778
00:42:27,941 --> 00:42:33,738
-by, really, how it's a story of… America.
-Mm-hmm.
779
00:42:33,822 --> 00:42:35,490
How big was this business?
780
00:42:35,574 --> 00:42:36,866
They were very successful.
781
00:42:36,950 --> 00:42:39,327
It's written like
it was a very lucrative business,
782
00:42:39,411 --> 00:42:41,204
well known throughout Philadelphia.
783
00:42:41,288 --> 00:42:42,455
We were at the front.
784
00:42:42,539 --> 00:42:44,833
We were starting the trends,
doing the work.
785
00:42:44,916 --> 00:42:48,253
What we know as catering today
was started by my family
786
00:42:48,336 --> 00:42:49,879
and these other families back then,
787
00:42:49,963 --> 00:42:53,258
and just to know that, like,
we set that tone, owning a business,
788
00:42:53,925 --> 00:42:57,012
um, starting this industry,
that's really cool.
789
00:43:00,640 --> 00:43:03,852
[Stephen] To celebrate that history
in the City of Brotherly Love,
790
00:43:03,935 --> 00:43:06,605
my man Omar Tate, a Philly native,
791
00:43:06,688 --> 00:43:10,442
cooked a feast inspired by the rich
Black food history of Philadelphia.
792
00:43:11,443 --> 00:43:14,613
We were joined by chefs, historians,
793
00:43:14,696 --> 00:43:17,574
and other descendants
of the Dutrieuille catering family.
794
00:43:19,117 --> 00:43:20,327
Welcome, everyone.
795
00:43:20,410 --> 00:43:21,661
-Thank you.
-Thank you.
796
00:43:21,745 --> 00:43:24,789
Thank you all for coming
to this very, very special meal
797
00:43:24,873 --> 00:43:25,874
that we've prepared.
798
00:43:26,583 --> 00:43:30,211
It's super special to me
because I grew up here in Philadelphia.
799
00:43:30,295 --> 00:43:33,548
And there's a very, very rich history
here in Philadelphia.
800
00:43:33,632 --> 00:43:36,051
These things are important.
They don't need to be lost.
801
00:43:36,134 --> 00:43:37,385
They're not gonna be lost.
802
00:43:37,469 --> 00:43:39,846
-Thanks for coming.
-[Stephen] Thanks to you. Cheers.
803
00:43:40,555 --> 00:43:43,183
[Omar] The first thing we're gonna have
is Bellevue broth,
804
00:43:43,266 --> 00:43:46,895
which is something that I actually learned
about by reading the Dutrieuille menu.
805
00:43:46,978 --> 00:43:48,605
I've never heard of it before,
806
00:43:48,688 --> 00:43:51,608
um, but apparently
it's been around for a few centuries,
807
00:43:51,691 --> 00:43:55,695
and it's a broth mixture of chicken
and just a shellfish broth
808
00:43:55,779 --> 00:43:57,864
with whipped cream and parsley.
809
00:43:57,947 --> 00:44:00,075
I'm really excited
to share that with you guys.
810
00:44:00,158 --> 00:44:02,243
-[Stephen] Oh, wow.
-[Lauren] Oh, really good.
811
00:44:02,327 --> 00:44:03,745
-Wow.
-[woman] Oh, my God.
812
00:44:04,329 --> 00:44:06,164
-[man] That's great.
-[woman] How rich is this?
813
00:44:06,247 --> 00:44:08,291
[Stephen] The texture,
the weight of it is so good.
814
00:44:08,375 --> 00:44:10,251
[Omar] It gives it a little more body.
Yep.
815
00:44:10,335 --> 00:44:13,797
It's very light, but it has
a nice density to it, too.
816
00:44:13,880 --> 00:44:15,674
-Super flavorful.
-[woman 2] Yes, it really is.
817
00:44:15,757 --> 00:44:19,511
{\an8}Yeah. It tastes like butter,
but without that greasiness.
818
00:44:19,594 --> 00:44:21,137
{\an8}[Harry] Yeah, not as heavy.
819
00:44:21,221 --> 00:44:22,806
-Yum.
-[Omar] Yeah.
820
00:44:22,889 --> 00:44:25,308
[Valerie] That's a good word
to describe it, "Yum."
821
00:44:25,392 --> 00:44:27,811
[Lauren] We'd never tried Bellevue broth
or heard of it either.
822
00:44:27,894 --> 00:44:29,854
So it's something
that they always presented
823
00:44:29,938 --> 00:44:33,400
at the bigger, most upper-class
banquets and dinners.
824
00:44:33,483 --> 00:44:36,820
I wonder how many people
have tried Bellevue broth,
825
00:44:36,903 --> 00:44:39,489
because if you all found these menus,
826
00:44:39,572 --> 00:44:41,700
and no one at this table's had it,
827
00:44:41,783 --> 00:44:43,535
-you hadn't heard of it before.
-[Omar] Right.
828
00:44:43,618 --> 00:44:45,704
[Stephen] Maybe you're connecting
a part of history
829
00:44:45,787 --> 00:44:48,915
that is, like, several decades missing.
830
00:44:48,998 --> 00:44:52,961
Right. I mean, I really hope so.
I think it's very important.
831
00:44:53,044 --> 00:44:55,171
A lot of times
our history is dark, you know,
832
00:44:55,255 --> 00:44:57,424
or we view it as dark.
833
00:44:57,507 --> 00:45:00,468
But there was just
so much beauty between the lines,
834
00:45:00,552 --> 00:45:03,680
and I feel like menus and food
is the synthesis that happens
835
00:45:03,763 --> 00:45:05,515
between the lines, in between history.
836
00:45:05,598 --> 00:45:06,433
[Valerie] Absolutely.
837
00:45:06,516 --> 00:45:09,728
-[Stephen] You did it justice.
-Yeah, you did. You did a wonderful job.
838
00:45:09,811 --> 00:45:13,356
How do you all feel getting to also taste
a part of this history, too?
839
00:45:13,940 --> 00:45:14,941
[Lauren] It feels amazing.
840
00:45:15,024 --> 00:45:18,820
It's really cool to find a talented chef
to bring these dishes to life.
841
00:45:18,903 --> 00:45:20,363
Our family, they're so humble,
842
00:45:20,447 --> 00:45:22,532
they never really spoke about this
growing up,
843
00:45:22,615 --> 00:45:24,743
you know,
so it was kind of a surprise to us.
844
00:45:24,826 --> 00:45:27,078
Alex got to go through the house
in Spring Garden…
845
00:45:27,162 --> 00:45:28,913
-[man] Yeah--
-…and clean it out.
846
00:45:28,997 --> 00:45:30,707
It was like my Indiana Jones moment.
847
00:45:30,790 --> 00:45:32,292
[all laughing]
848
00:45:32,375 --> 00:45:35,336
I went to the basement,
and I went to dig around,
849
00:45:35,420 --> 00:45:36,796
got dirty and all, you know,
850
00:45:36,880 --> 00:45:39,299
{\an8}the cobwebs and pulled it out
and saw the plates.
851
00:45:39,382 --> 00:45:42,761
{\an8}I'm like, what was going on here?
There's so much they didn't tell me.
852
00:45:42,844 --> 00:45:48,933
So, Ms. Patty, we are talking
about this late 19th-century history,
853
00:45:49,017 --> 00:45:50,769
and talking about the Dutrieuilles,
854
00:45:50,852 --> 00:45:55,857
but our connection to catering actually
goes back almost 100 years before.
855
00:45:55,940 --> 00:45:59,778
{\an8}Absolutely. So, Robert Bogle
is known as the father of catering,
856
00:45:59,861 --> 00:46:04,115
{\an8}and before him, there wasn't
actually a catering profession,
857
00:46:04,199 --> 00:46:06,910
and the word "caterer" wasn't known.
858
00:46:06,993 --> 00:46:11,122
Robert Bogle served
both the Black community,
859
00:46:11,206 --> 00:46:15,710
but really was the caterer of choice
for the white society as well.
860
00:46:15,794 --> 00:46:17,796
[lively classical string music plays]
861
00:46:18,254 --> 00:46:22,884
[Omar] The next thing
is the Virginia ham with greens.
862
00:46:22,967 --> 00:46:26,846
Classic comfort,
just simply stewed down with ham,
863
00:46:26,930 --> 00:46:29,474
vegetables,
a little bit of aromatics like onion,
864
00:46:29,557 --> 00:46:31,392
garlic, and just a touch of vinegar.
865
00:46:31,476 --> 00:46:34,854
And we're also going to have
crab salad on crackers.
866
00:46:34,938 --> 00:46:36,147
Another special one,
867
00:46:36,231 --> 00:46:39,442
not specifically related
to the Dutrieuille family's history,
868
00:46:39,526 --> 00:46:43,363
but it's related to the larger history
of catering in Philadelphia in general.
869
00:46:44,072 --> 00:46:45,990
You have to take one of everything.
870
00:46:48,785 --> 00:46:49,828
Yeah, a little more.
871
00:46:53,540 --> 00:46:54,457
Mmm.
872
00:46:54,541 --> 00:46:56,751
-[Valerie] Omar, that's really good.
-Wow.
873
00:46:57,627 --> 00:47:00,755
[Omar] Collards. It's collard greens,
mustard greens, and dandelion greens.
874
00:47:00,839 --> 00:47:02,423
-[all] Oh!
-[Omar] And turnip greens.
875
00:47:02,507 --> 00:47:04,467
-Here we go.
-A collective "oh."
876
00:47:04,551 --> 00:47:06,511
-[diners chuckling]
-Mmm.
877
00:47:07,595 --> 00:47:10,014
-Mmm. That's delicious, chef.
-Wow.
878
00:47:11,474 --> 00:47:13,726
-Omar, you did it again.
-[all laughing]
879
00:47:14,352 --> 00:47:18,022
You're a food person. How are you feeling
being connected to this legacy?
880
00:47:18,106 --> 00:47:19,274
I mean, it's an honor.
881
00:47:19,357 --> 00:47:22,652
I want my grandkids to be able to, like,
look at these menus and be like,
882
00:47:22,735 --> 00:47:24,362
"This is still being made today."
883
00:47:24,445 --> 00:47:26,114
I hold it near and dear to my heart.
884
00:47:26,197 --> 00:47:29,909
It's family, it's tradition,
it's Black history.
885
00:47:29,993 --> 00:47:31,286
It's Philadelphia, which is--
886
00:47:31,369 --> 00:47:33,329
-[Lauren] It's American history.
-American history.
887
00:47:33,413 --> 00:47:37,667
And at the time that it happened,
years before segregation ended,
888
00:47:37,750 --> 00:47:38,877
they were doing so much.
889
00:47:38,960 --> 00:47:42,088
I was looking at the cars
they were driving. How was that possible?
890
00:47:42,171 --> 00:47:44,674
-[Lauren] I had the same thought.
-You didn't see that, you know?
891
00:47:44,757 --> 00:47:46,217
-[Lauren] Yeah.
-Dressed to the nines.
892
00:47:46,301 --> 00:47:49,178
It blows my mind.
So it's an honor to carry on that lineage.
893
00:47:49,262 --> 00:47:51,472
[Lauren] I had the same thought
when Dad sent the photos.
894
00:47:51,556 --> 00:47:54,642
Fur coat and fancy car. I was like,
"Black people lived like this?"
895
00:47:54,726 --> 00:47:55,727
We absolutely did.
896
00:47:55,810 --> 00:47:58,438
Generations and generations of free Blacks
897
00:47:58,521 --> 00:48:01,107
and generations and generations
of entrepreneurship.
898
00:48:01,190 --> 00:48:03,318
We created our own economies,
899
00:48:03,401 --> 00:48:09,324
and we had families like the Dutrieuilles
that carried on that tradition,
900
00:48:09,407 --> 00:48:14,120
fed our communities and were examples
of how we could be self-reliant,
901
00:48:14,203 --> 00:48:16,080
independent, entrepreneurs,
902
00:48:16,164 --> 00:48:18,917
and turn around a dollar
within our community.
903
00:48:19,000 --> 00:48:21,252
It was really, really a strong impact.
904
00:48:24,547 --> 00:48:25,798
[Omar] For our entrée,
905
00:48:25,882 --> 00:48:28,468
we will be having pepper pot stew.
906
00:48:28,551 --> 00:48:32,472
Pepper pot stew was
the most popular dish in Philadelphia
907
00:48:32,555 --> 00:48:36,768
in the 18th and 19th century,
and even extended into the 20th century.
908
00:48:36,851 --> 00:48:42,690
There's even a painting of a woman
selling pepper pot to vendors.
909
00:48:42,774 --> 00:48:45,568
{\an8}It was sold as a street vended item
910
00:48:45,652 --> 00:48:49,530
{\an8}by mostly free women of color
up and down Market Street.
911
00:48:49,614 --> 00:48:51,824
{\an8}So I'm very excited
to share that with y'all,
912
00:48:51,908 --> 00:48:54,243
and bring that dish back to prominence.
913
00:48:55,286 --> 00:48:58,289
-[Lauren] Yeah, this looks so good.
-[Valerie] Omar, this is delicious.
914
00:48:58,373 --> 00:48:59,791
-[Harry] Mmm.
-[Lauren] Yeah.
915
00:49:01,125 --> 00:49:02,627
[Valerie] What did you use, oxtail?
916
00:49:02,710 --> 00:49:04,879
Mmm. Oxtail, yes.
917
00:49:06,130 --> 00:49:07,548
[Lauren] It's so good!
918
00:49:07,632 --> 00:49:09,300
[Patricia] It really is.
919
00:49:09,384 --> 00:49:12,595
It has great spice, but it's not spicy,
so what are we tasting?
920
00:49:12,679 --> 00:49:16,015
So, because of the connection
to the West Indies,
921
00:49:16,099 --> 00:49:17,600
there's scotch bonnet in here.
922
00:49:17,684 --> 00:49:22,063
This is tomato based
with the scotch bonnet, paprikas,
923
00:49:22,146 --> 00:49:24,524
garlic, onion, thyme,
924
00:49:24,607 --> 00:49:27,860
but more important
than all those spices, to me,
925
00:49:27,944 --> 00:49:29,988
is time, as in, like a clock.
926
00:49:30,071 --> 00:49:32,198
You have to be patient
927
00:49:32,281 --> 00:49:35,159
and take care of every layer in this stew.
928
00:49:35,243 --> 00:49:39,080
[Stephen] I love this dish
because it's so complex.
929
00:49:39,163 --> 00:49:42,500
With the spice, with the texture
of the rice and the meat.
930
00:49:42,583 --> 00:49:46,629
It's not heavy-handed, but there's
so much flavor. Really beautiful dish.
931
00:49:46,713 --> 00:49:49,549
I mean, quite honestly, like,
when I make this dish,
932
00:49:49,632 --> 00:49:51,217
I don't really use a recipe.
933
00:49:51,300 --> 00:49:53,886
There are recipes for pepper pot,
934
00:49:53,970 --> 00:49:57,849
um, but I really try to draw
a feeling of an ancestral connection.
935
00:49:58,433 --> 00:49:59,767
I feel I'm directly connected
936
00:49:59,851 --> 00:50:02,645
to the way African Americans
liberated themselves in the past,
937
00:50:02,729 --> 00:50:03,771
which is through craft.
938
00:50:03,855 --> 00:50:06,149
So, through these dishes,
939
00:50:06,232 --> 00:50:10,028
we really get to unabashedly tell
our truths,
940
00:50:10,111 --> 00:50:11,571
because everyone wants to eat.
941
00:50:13,656 --> 00:50:17,201
[Stephen] I've always felt
there is a power connected to food,
942
00:50:17,285 --> 00:50:19,829
a grace in gathering for a moment shared,
943
00:50:20,663 --> 00:50:24,584
and a freedom found
in the exchange of emotions and ideas.
944
00:50:25,960 --> 00:50:29,630
As the abolitionist movement
of the early 1800s grew,
945
00:50:29,714 --> 00:50:33,384
and the Underground Railroad brought
more and more people to Philadelphia,
946
00:50:33,885 --> 00:50:38,598
a growing free Black community
was looking to expand their opportunity.
947
00:50:39,557 --> 00:50:43,269
And some set their sights on a territory
948
00:50:44,187 --> 00:50:46,647
that would soon be known as Texas.
949
00:50:49,984 --> 00:50:51,986
[blues guitar music playing]