1 00:00:08,738 --> 00:00:10,614 [serene classical music playing] 2 00:00:19,790 --> 00:00:21,417 -All right, cheers. -Cheers. 3 00:00:24,503 --> 00:00:26,797 [man] Hercules was the enslaved African American chef 4 00:00:26,881 --> 00:00:28,299 for President George Washington 5 00:00:28,382 --> 00:00:31,927 while the president's house was in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. 6 00:00:32,011 --> 00:00:34,388 And he was a very accomplished chef. 7 00:00:35,514 --> 00:00:38,100 A lot of people who ate at Washington's residence 8 00:00:38,184 --> 00:00:42,396 celebrated his food in their writing and their diaries and letters. 9 00:00:43,647 --> 00:00:44,940 {\an8}His cooking was so good 10 00:00:45,024 --> 00:00:47,860 {\an8}that he actually made money every year selling leftovers. 11 00:00:47,943 --> 00:00:50,446 And he would use that money to buy clothes. 12 00:00:50,529 --> 00:00:53,282 There are stories about him, after his shift was over, 13 00:00:53,365 --> 00:00:54,867 dressing up in fancy outfits 14 00:00:54,950 --> 00:00:57,328 and having a gold cane, walking about town. 15 00:00:57,411 --> 00:00:59,497 So, he was really quite the character. 16 00:01:00,414 --> 00:01:03,793 How did Washington ensure that Hercules remained enslaved? 17 00:01:04,376 --> 00:01:07,630 When Washington summoned Hercules from Mount Vernon to Philadelphia, 18 00:01:07,713 --> 00:01:08,923 there was one problem. 19 00:01:09,507 --> 00:01:13,260 State law said that if an enslaved person was on Pennsylvania soil 20 00:01:13,344 --> 00:01:16,055 for six months or longer, they were automatically free. 21 00:01:17,681 --> 00:01:20,851 So, he would pack up all the enslaved people in Philadelphia 22 00:01:20,935 --> 00:01:23,020 and take them back to Mount Vernon 23 00:01:23,104 --> 00:01:26,816 to start that clock over, and then bring them back to Philadelphia. 24 00:01:28,025 --> 00:01:30,986 [Stephen] Does Washington fear that Hercules will run away? 25 00:01:31,487 --> 00:01:34,490 [Adrian] There's indications that towards the end of his second term, 26 00:01:34,573 --> 00:01:37,952 he does start to suspect that Hercules might try to escape. 27 00:01:39,120 --> 00:01:41,080 Washington's suspicions are so strong 28 00:01:41,163 --> 00:01:43,958 that he actually sends Hercules back to Mount Vernon, 29 00:01:44,041 --> 00:01:46,710 but not to the kitchen, but to the fields. 30 00:01:47,962 --> 00:01:50,589 So this world-renowned cook is now a laborer. 31 00:01:51,465 --> 00:01:53,259 And then one day, he disappears. 32 00:01:53,759 --> 00:01:55,344 [dramatic music plays] 33 00:01:58,973 --> 00:02:01,267 [opening theme song playing] 34 00:02:52,693 --> 00:02:54,695 [string instruments tuning] 35 00:03:12,338 --> 00:03:14,340 [playing chamber music] 36 00:03:29,021 --> 00:03:30,898 [Stephen] Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. 37 00:03:32,650 --> 00:03:35,152 I've always associated the City of Brotherly Love 38 00:03:35,236 --> 00:03:36,487 with ideas of freedom. 39 00:03:37,613 --> 00:03:40,824 Quaker settlers led the charge for abolition here, 40 00:03:40,908 --> 00:03:44,245 and Pennsylvania was the first state in the Union to outlaw slavery. 41 00:03:48,207 --> 00:03:51,001 But emancipation was a gradual process, 42 00:03:51,085 --> 00:03:54,046 and back when Philly served as the nation's capital, 43 00:03:54,129 --> 00:03:57,383 two chefs that cooked some of the finest meals in the country 44 00:03:57,466 --> 00:04:00,010 remained enslaved here by the founding fathers. 45 00:04:00,678 --> 00:04:03,097 Hercules served George Washington, 46 00:04:03,180 --> 00:04:06,392 and a man named James Hemings cooked for Thomas Jefferson. 47 00:04:07,017 --> 00:04:09,687 And while there are no known images of these men, 48 00:04:09,770 --> 00:04:13,232 their legacies are still alive and well all the way out in California. 49 00:04:18,529 --> 00:04:20,531 [rhythmic music playing] 50 00:04:25,536 --> 00:04:30,916 At a spot called Hatchet Hall, I met Brian Dunsmoor and Martin Draluck, 51 00:04:31,000 --> 00:04:32,459 two chefs who are recreating 52 00:04:32,543 --> 00:04:35,004 the cooking techniques of Hercules and Hemings. 53 00:04:36,714 --> 00:04:41,176 Both enslaved men mastered elegant meals over the open fire, 54 00:04:41,260 --> 00:04:42,928 a method known as hearth cooking. 55 00:04:47,975 --> 00:04:50,477 I mean, the hardest part is just maintaining the fire, 56 00:04:50,561 --> 00:04:53,355 and not killing yourself, kind of, you know, 57 00:04:53,439 --> 00:04:56,025 by standing in front of a fire and melting from the heat. 58 00:04:57,401 --> 00:05:00,321 We've done well over 1,000 dishes since we've been open. 59 00:05:01,030 --> 00:05:04,491 For us, it's more about the techniques, and challenging ourselves, 60 00:05:04,575 --> 00:05:07,828 not to mention it's kind of like a bridge 61 00:05:07,911 --> 00:05:10,622 that helps us tell the story that we're trying to tell. 62 00:05:12,082 --> 00:05:17,004 So part of the way that you guys bring this historical context into your cooking 63 00:05:17,087 --> 00:05:18,589 is through these dinners. 64 00:05:19,214 --> 00:05:22,217 Hercules and Hemings… 65 00:05:22,801 --> 00:05:24,678 Can you tell us who they were 66 00:05:24,762 --> 00:05:27,222 and tell us a little bit more about these dinners? 67 00:05:27,890 --> 00:05:31,268 You could consider them two of America's first celebrity chefs. 68 00:05:31,352 --> 00:05:35,689 They were enslaved property of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. 69 00:05:36,523 --> 00:05:40,819 {\an8}James Hemings specifically traveled to France with Thomas Jefferson, um, 70 00:05:41,320 --> 00:05:42,946 {\an8}learned to cook professionally. 71 00:05:43,030 --> 00:05:48,952 As most stories in slavery, they got lost, or didn't get recorded in the first place, 72 00:05:49,036 --> 00:05:51,246 so just to be able to tell their story 73 00:05:51,330 --> 00:05:53,665 is the biggest motivation for doing the dinners. 74 00:05:55,501 --> 00:05:58,879 [Stephen] So I'm checking out this menu. Who is this featured? 75 00:05:58,962 --> 00:06:00,631 For the longest time it wasn't known 76 00:06:00,714 --> 00:06:03,133 whether that was James Hemings or Hercules Caesar, 77 00:06:03,217 --> 00:06:07,137 up until recently, where they found out that it's actually neither of them. 78 00:06:07,221 --> 00:06:09,973 -[softly] Okay. -But the picture was so amazing 79 00:06:10,057 --> 00:06:11,642 that it-it couldn't-- 80 00:06:11,725 --> 00:06:14,895 We couldn't pick anything else to be the logo for the dinners. 81 00:06:15,437 --> 00:06:18,273 [Brian] We're inspired  by American food history, 82 00:06:18,357 --> 00:06:20,526 {\an8}and we're trying to learn as we go, 83 00:06:20,609 --> 00:06:24,363 {\an8}and teach people as we go along the way. 84 00:06:24,947 --> 00:06:27,408 There you go, guys, here's your veal olive. 85 00:06:27,491 --> 00:06:30,411 -[Stephen] Thank you. Beautiful. -[waiter] You're welcome, enjoy. 86 00:06:30,494 --> 00:06:32,788 So tell me, what's the story with this dish? 87 00:06:32,871 --> 00:06:36,792 Well, I think what's interesting about Hercules is that 88 00:06:36,875 --> 00:06:39,545 he's apparently one of the most famous chefs of his time, 89 00:06:39,628 --> 00:06:42,339 but you can't find a dish that he's ever created. 90 00:06:42,423 --> 00:06:44,258 And then you have Martha Washington, 91 00:06:44,341 --> 00:06:48,095 who has, like, this plethora of dishes, like, all over the place. 92 00:06:48,178 --> 00:06:50,222 -Err… It doesn't all add up. -Right. 93 00:06:50,305 --> 00:06:51,974 So, a lot of people have a theory 94 00:06:52,057 --> 00:06:55,269 that a lot of the dishes that Martha Washington is credited with 95 00:06:55,352 --> 00:06:57,646 were actually Hercules' dishes. 96 00:06:57,729 --> 00:07:02,985 So, originally, this dish would have been a pounded-out veal cutlet, 97 00:07:03,068 --> 00:07:05,112 rolled with crab meat, 98 00:07:05,195 --> 00:07:08,157 and then cooked in a sherry cream sauce. 99 00:07:08,240 --> 00:07:11,285 What we do, we do a whole veal sweetbread. 100 00:07:11,368 --> 00:07:14,621 And then we serve it with a sauce of sherry cream, 101 00:07:14,705 --> 00:07:16,540 with a little bit of mushroom stock. 102 00:07:16,623 --> 00:07:18,917 And we use Dungeness crab. 103 00:07:23,505 --> 00:07:24,339 [Stephen] Wow. 104 00:07:25,340 --> 00:07:26,592 That's so tender. 105 00:07:27,509 --> 00:07:28,385 So good. 106 00:07:29,553 --> 00:07:32,973 [Brian] So, what's kind of interesting about this dish is that 107 00:07:33,056 --> 00:07:37,811 Hercules was famous for doing French service, 108 00:07:37,895 --> 00:07:39,938 but not necessarily French techniques. 109 00:07:40,022 --> 00:07:42,941 He would do more English-style food, 110 00:07:43,025 --> 00:07:45,611 whereas James Heming, opposite, you know. 111 00:07:45,694 --> 00:07:49,281 He actually cooked French food, after apprenticing in France. 112 00:07:50,282 --> 00:07:52,576 [rhythmic music playing] 113 00:07:56,330 --> 00:07:57,206 [Stephen] Wow. 114 00:07:57,289 --> 00:07:58,373 It's like a present. 115 00:07:59,416 --> 00:08:00,334 [Martin] Oh, yeah. 116 00:08:00,417 --> 00:08:02,169 [Stephen] So, what is this dish? 117 00:08:02,669 --> 00:08:04,755 So, this is a braised rabbit, 118 00:08:04,838 --> 00:08:08,967 and wood-roasted carrots over toasted Midlands grits, 119 00:08:09,635 --> 00:08:12,346 with Madeira mounted with beurre manié. 120 00:08:12,930 --> 00:08:15,974 So, definitely an ode to James Hemings. 121 00:08:18,143 --> 00:08:20,771 The relation to Hemings would be the pan sauce itself, 122 00:08:20,854 --> 00:08:25,108 using his knowledge of the stew stove that he brought back with him from France, 123 00:08:25,192 --> 00:08:27,236 and being able to mount sauces with butter, 124 00:08:27,319 --> 00:08:30,531 or handling delicate cream and butter sauces. 125 00:08:32,991 --> 00:08:34,451 Mmm. 126 00:08:34,535 --> 00:08:35,786 I love it. 127 00:08:35,869 --> 00:08:38,497 So when Hemings returns from France, 128 00:08:38,580 --> 00:08:41,208 he's using the stew stove to cook. 129 00:08:41,291 --> 00:08:44,211 [Brian] The stew stove that Hemings brought back from France 130 00:08:44,294 --> 00:08:48,507 was kind of a segue into what we have now. 131 00:08:48,590 --> 00:08:50,217 -[Stephen] Got it. -[Brian] It's like… 132 00:08:50,300 --> 00:08:53,470 If they didn't bring that back, we'd be in big trouble. 133 00:08:53,554 --> 00:08:55,639 [Martin] We don't have one in the restaurant, 134 00:08:55,722 --> 00:08:57,724 but, uh, we kind of simulate it, 135 00:08:57,808 --> 00:09:01,311 basically keeping whatever you're cooking away from direct, high heat. 136 00:09:02,437 --> 00:09:04,022 [diners chattering] 137 00:09:04,106 --> 00:09:08,360 How have people received, uh, these dinners? 138 00:09:08,443 --> 00:09:13,156 I think everybody that's attended the dinners has responded really well. 139 00:09:13,240 --> 00:09:17,452 Some people that read about the dinner, that didn't attend, 140 00:09:17,536 --> 00:09:18,870 didn't think it was so cool. 141 00:09:18,954 --> 00:09:22,416 You know, it's a touchy subject, 142 00:09:22,499 --> 00:09:26,003 and lots of people don't wanna hear other people talk about it. So… 143 00:09:26,670 --> 00:09:28,422 Why is that, you think? 144 00:09:28,505 --> 00:09:30,048 Americans are like ostriches. 145 00:09:30,132 --> 00:09:34,386 Like, they stick their head in the sand and pretend that everything is okay. 146 00:09:35,095 --> 00:09:37,931 We're not guilty of anything, sitting here, you know? 147 00:09:38,015 --> 00:09:39,016 It's… 148 00:09:39,099 --> 00:09:41,893 We're making progress, and people just need to know. 149 00:09:41,977 --> 00:09:43,103 People need the facts, 150 00:09:43,186 --> 00:09:46,189 and they can make their opinions themselves. 151 00:09:46,273 --> 00:09:48,275 [melodic guitar music playing] 152 00:09:57,367 --> 00:10:01,246 [Stephen] Our finale, first of all, looks really complicated, 153 00:10:02,122 --> 00:10:03,915 um, but what is this dish? 154 00:10:03,999 --> 00:10:05,917 It's a variation on one of two dishes 155 00:10:06,001 --> 00:10:08,503 that we know of attributed to James Hemings. 156 00:10:08,587 --> 00:10:09,671 This is a snow egg. 157 00:10:09,755 --> 00:10:13,508 It's basically a creme anglaise, or ice cream custard, 158 00:10:13,592 --> 00:10:15,844 with a poached egg white. 159 00:10:15,927 --> 00:10:18,180 -It's a beautiful dish. -[Stephen] It's really beautiful. 160 00:10:18,263 --> 00:10:19,264 Yeah. 161 00:10:20,140 --> 00:10:22,142 [guitar music continues] 162 00:10:22,809 --> 00:10:24,561 [Brian] Mm-hmm. 163 00:10:24,645 --> 00:10:26,521 -Yum. -[Brian] This is your best batch yet. 164 00:10:26,605 --> 00:10:28,148 Mm-hmm. 165 00:10:28,231 --> 00:10:29,274 [Stephen] Wow. 166 00:10:29,358 --> 00:10:30,567 Cool custard. 167 00:10:31,276 --> 00:10:32,444 Not too sweet. 168 00:10:32,986 --> 00:10:35,656 -I love the pomegranates for texture. -[Martin] Right. 169 00:10:36,490 --> 00:10:37,949 [Stephen] Such a pleasure to eat. 170 00:10:38,033 --> 00:10:40,035 [overlapping chatter] 171 00:10:43,789 --> 00:10:48,335 What is it about the legacy of these two chefs 172 00:10:48,418 --> 00:10:53,507 {\an8}that makes you compelled to want to keep their work alive? 173 00:10:53,590 --> 00:10:55,801 {\an8}[Martin] I can probably name you only a handful 174 00:10:55,884 --> 00:10:58,261 of other Black chefs in general, 175 00:10:58,345 --> 00:11:01,306 let alone ones that made such a significant impact 176 00:11:01,390 --> 00:11:02,474 on the way we eat. 177 00:11:02,557 --> 00:11:07,104 So, it's important as a Black person just to be able to tell their story. 178 00:11:07,187 --> 00:11:08,980 Unarguably, these two guys 179 00:11:09,064 --> 00:11:11,525 were two of the most important chefs in American history, 180 00:11:11,608 --> 00:11:13,485 and they've never gotten  any credit for it. 181 00:11:13,568 --> 00:11:17,322 And, you know, as enthusiasts and chefs, 182 00:11:17,406 --> 00:11:22,994 we feel like it's kind of our duty, now that we've dove in, to keep it going. 183 00:11:23,078 --> 00:11:25,080 [soft instrumental music playing] 184 00:11:26,623 --> 00:11:28,625 [chatting indistinctly] 185 00:11:31,086 --> 00:11:35,382 [Stephen] Both Hercules and James Hemings were enslaved on plantations in Virginia. 186 00:11:36,007 --> 00:11:40,095 {\an8}My obsession with origins took me to the state's Blue Ridge mountains, 187 00:11:40,178 --> 00:11:44,808 {\an8}where Thomas Jefferson built his home on a sprawling estate he named Monticello. 188 00:11:45,559 --> 00:11:48,437 James Hemings came to Monticello when he was nine years old 189 00:11:48,520 --> 00:11:49,354 with his family, 190 00:11:49,438 --> 00:11:52,607 including his younger sister, Sally Hemings, 191 00:11:52,691 --> 00:11:55,986 who would later bear at least six of Jefferson's children. 192 00:11:56,069 --> 00:11:58,447 [woman] Monticello was a very large plantation. 193 00:11:58,530 --> 00:12:02,576 {\an8}Jefferson enslaved 607 people during his lifetime, 194 00:12:02,659 --> 00:12:05,495 {\an8}and 400 of those people would've been on this plantation. 195 00:12:06,663 --> 00:12:10,542 [Stephen] Do we have any sense of what enslaved people would have been eating? 196 00:12:10,625 --> 00:12:13,378 [Niya] Yeah. Jefferson was a very meticulous record keeper. 197 00:12:13,462 --> 00:12:16,256 We have over 65,000 documents with information 198 00:12:16,339 --> 00:12:18,467 -about this enslaved community. -[Stephen] Wow. 199 00:12:18,550 --> 00:12:22,888 We know that Jefferson is only giving meager rations for the enslaved community, 200 00:12:22,971 --> 00:12:24,347 so they had to grow gardens 201 00:12:24,431 --> 00:12:27,309 and they had to trap and hunt to supplement their diet. 202 00:12:28,435 --> 00:12:30,645 [Stephen] So, James Hemings comes here as a little boy? 203 00:12:30,729 --> 00:12:34,065 [Niya] That's right. James Hemings comes here as part of an inheritance. 204 00:12:34,149 --> 00:12:35,901 He's Sally Hemings' older brother. 205 00:12:35,984 --> 00:12:38,278 And so they would have come here as a family unit, 206 00:12:38,361 --> 00:12:40,697 along with members of their extended family, 207 00:12:40,781 --> 00:12:43,283 to begin the work that Jefferson set out for them. 208 00:12:44,326 --> 00:12:46,286 [Stephen] And at what point in his life 209 00:12:46,369 --> 00:12:49,831 does Jefferson decide that he's well-suited for the kitchen? 210 00:12:49,915 --> 00:12:51,833 James was first a body servant and a valet, 211 00:12:51,917 --> 00:12:55,462 and Jefferson is starting to identify those traits within him that would, 212 00:12:56,046 --> 00:12:57,672 um, work well in the kitchen. 213 00:12:58,256 --> 00:13:01,510 And so when Jefferson serves as a foreign minister in France, 214 00:13:01,593 --> 00:13:03,804 he takes 19-year-old Hemings with him 215 00:13:03,887 --> 00:13:06,306 and has him trained in the art of French cooking. 216 00:13:07,682 --> 00:13:10,602 So, Jefferson has kind of an outsized reputation 217 00:13:10,685 --> 00:13:13,814 as one of the nation's first foodies or food lovers. 218 00:13:13,897 --> 00:13:16,358 [Niya] Jefferson is a man who's got ambitious ideas 219 00:13:16,441 --> 00:13:18,151 about what it means to be American. 220 00:13:18,235 --> 00:13:21,571 And he does that in the architecture, he does it with his design, 221 00:13:21,655 --> 00:13:23,532 and he does it especially through food. 222 00:13:23,615 --> 00:13:25,951 If you'd come to Monticello, 223 00:13:26,034 --> 00:13:30,247 you would get what has been described as half-Virginian, half-French cuisine. 224 00:13:30,330 --> 00:13:32,374 Most Virginians hadn't been to France. 225 00:13:32,457 --> 00:13:35,877 Right? They hadn't had these more delicate sauces 226 00:13:35,961 --> 00:13:38,338 and fine dishes being served here at Monticello. 227 00:13:38,421 --> 00:13:40,173 [solemn classical music plays] 228 00:13:40,257 --> 00:13:42,425 [Stephen] When James Hemings gets back from Paris, 229 00:13:42,509 --> 00:13:44,553 what is the deal he negotiates with Jefferson? 230 00:13:44,636 --> 00:13:48,098 [Niya] So when they come back from Paris, they go to Philadelphia. 231 00:13:48,181 --> 00:13:51,685 And James is working as a chef there in Jefferson's household. 232 00:13:51,768 --> 00:13:54,563 Philadelphia has a large free Black population. 233 00:13:54,646 --> 00:13:57,899 Um, and James ultimately decides that he does want his freedom, 234 00:13:57,983 --> 00:13:59,484 and he negotiates with Jefferson. 235 00:13:59,568 --> 00:14:03,864 And Jefferson's response is, "Well, I've spent a great deal of money 236 00:14:03,947 --> 00:14:07,576 having you trained to prepare the food that I want served at my house. 237 00:14:07,659 --> 00:14:11,329 The only way you can have your freedom is if you train someone else." 238 00:14:11,413 --> 00:14:13,456 And ultimately that's James' younger brother. 239 00:14:13,540 --> 00:14:16,960 And so the key to his freedom is that he returns to Monticello, 240 00:14:17,043 --> 00:14:19,379 trains his brother to replace him in the kitchen 241 00:14:19,462 --> 00:14:20,964 before he can have that freedom. 242 00:14:23,174 --> 00:14:24,801 [solemn music continues] 243 00:14:25,886 --> 00:14:28,680 [Stephen] The kitchen where James Hemings trained his brother Peter  244 00:14:28,763 --> 00:14:32,017 was, to my surprise,  still a working situation. 245 00:14:32,767 --> 00:14:36,521 And it was here that he popularized foods like French fries, 246 00:14:36,605 --> 00:14:39,941 ice cream, and our country's much beloved mac and cheese. 247 00:14:40,025 --> 00:14:42,903 [vibrant string music playing] 248 00:14:42,986 --> 00:14:44,821 Before we get into the mac and cheese, 249 00:14:44,905 --> 00:14:47,866 can you kind of orient me around the kitchen 250 00:14:47,949 --> 00:14:50,744 about how things would have worked in the 18th century? 251 00:14:50,827 --> 00:14:52,412 {\an8}In this kitchen, 252 00:14:52,495 --> 00:14:57,250 {\an8}the hearth is the main scene that's happening. 253 00:14:57,334 --> 00:15:00,503 It's a place where there would have been fire always, 254 00:15:00,587 --> 00:15:02,339 so you could do oven baking, 255 00:15:02,422 --> 00:15:05,216 um, so that you could roast meat right in front of it. 256 00:15:05,300 --> 00:15:07,385 So, it's really the heart of the kitchen. 257 00:15:10,597 --> 00:15:14,684 And then you have this masonry unit called a stew stove. 258 00:15:14,768 --> 00:15:21,483 They're made especially to be efficient for creams, sauces, delicate frying. 259 00:15:24,486 --> 00:15:26,154 [Stephen] What are we making today? 260 00:15:26,237 --> 00:15:30,659 We are going to make macaroni pie, is what they would have called it then. 261 00:15:32,786 --> 00:15:35,080 We, of course, call it mac and cheese. 262 00:15:35,163 --> 00:15:40,627 The standard, yummy dish that we all love has a really old history. 263 00:15:42,295 --> 00:15:44,297 [gentle, bright music playing] 264 00:15:48,385 --> 00:15:50,095 [Stephen] You've got the noodles going. 265 00:15:50,178 --> 00:15:52,847 [Dr. Sorensen] Yes. And in this particular recipe, 266 00:15:52,931 --> 00:15:55,392 we want to cook them well, we want them tender, 267 00:15:55,475 --> 00:15:58,478 and they are being cooked  in half milk, half water, 268 00:15:58,561 --> 00:16:04,234 which is an interesting combination that is very, very effective. 269 00:16:08,905 --> 00:16:11,950 -It already smells like mac and cheese… -[Stephen] Absolutely. 270 00:16:12,033 --> 00:16:13,952 -…and that's because of the milk in it. 271 00:16:18,957 --> 00:16:19,874 Uh, 272 00:16:21,084 --> 00:16:24,254 a layer of the macaroni. 273 00:16:24,337 --> 00:16:26,506 You're going to layer your butter. 274 00:16:26,589 --> 00:16:29,592 And of course, you could never use too much butter. 275 00:16:29,676 --> 00:16:32,846 [Stephen] So, how is it that mac and cheese became ubiquitous, 276 00:16:32,929 --> 00:16:34,472 uh, through this kitchen? 277 00:16:34,973 --> 00:16:38,810 Well, it started, probably, in this kitchen with James, 278 00:16:38,893 --> 00:16:40,061 but he passed it on, 279 00:16:40,145 --> 00:16:43,565 and it passed on through generations of cooks who had cooked here. 280 00:16:43,648 --> 00:16:49,404 We know that Jefferson bought pounds of raw macaroni 281 00:16:49,487 --> 00:16:52,282 six months before his death in 1826, 282 00:16:52,365 --> 00:16:57,037 so it must have been a well-loved dish here. 283 00:16:57,120 --> 00:17:03,543 And it's hard to know sometimes how food styles do and accrue, 284 00:17:03,626 --> 00:17:07,714 but James probably learned it in France. 285 00:17:09,049 --> 00:17:10,216 [Stephen] Smells great. 286 00:17:11,051 --> 00:17:14,304 [Dr. Sorensen] So we're gonna put it in a Dutch oven. 287 00:17:15,180 --> 00:17:18,058 To sit on these very hard, hot bricks. 288 00:17:24,189 --> 00:17:25,190 Macaroni. 289 00:17:29,402 --> 00:17:31,696 Then we're going to put our lid. 290 00:17:33,281 --> 00:17:35,200 And we're going to add… 291 00:17:38,369 --> 00:17:40,121 -coals… -Oh, okay. 292 00:17:40,205 --> 00:17:44,667 …to the top of this pan so that the heat can 293 00:17:46,086 --> 00:17:48,254 bake all the way around. 294 00:17:52,425 --> 00:17:55,678 So, how dangerous was it to do open-hearth cooking at that time? 295 00:17:55,762 --> 00:17:57,055 [Dr. Sorensen] Pretty dangerous. 296 00:17:57,138 --> 00:17:58,890 You know the old saw, 297 00:17:58,973 --> 00:18:01,267 "If you don't like the heat, get out of the kitchen"? 298 00:18:01,351 --> 00:18:03,937 -[Stephen] Sure. -There's that. It was always hot. 299 00:18:04,020 --> 00:18:06,147 The dangers, of course, are from burns. 300 00:18:06,231 --> 00:18:09,067 Women wore long clothing. 301 00:18:09,150 --> 00:18:12,153 Being burned from their clothing catching on fire 302 00:18:12,237 --> 00:18:13,696 could really be a problem. 303 00:18:13,780 --> 00:18:15,698 [gentle music playing] 304 00:18:25,416 --> 00:18:27,293 [Stephen] All right, think it's ready? 305 00:18:27,377 --> 00:18:28,920 -Let's go. Okay. -All right. 306 00:18:29,003 --> 00:18:31,714 So, our… pothook. 307 00:18:32,215 --> 00:18:37,178 We're going to, again, lifting straight up and over. 308 00:18:38,054 --> 00:18:39,472 Oh, it's sizzling! 309 00:18:39,556 --> 00:18:40,807 [Stephen] It's beautiful. 310 00:18:48,815 --> 00:18:50,191 -[woman] Hi! -[Stephen] Hi, Gayle. 311 00:18:50,275 --> 00:18:52,485 Wow. Look at that, that looks great. 312 00:18:52,569 --> 00:18:54,237 -Looks so good. -[Dr. Sorensen] More butter. 313 00:18:54,320 --> 00:18:55,822 We've been making mac and cheese, 314 00:18:55,905 --> 00:18:58,741 and I understand that you are a descendant of the Hemings. 315 00:18:58,825 --> 00:19:00,243 I am. 316 00:19:00,326 --> 00:19:03,705 {\an8}I am related to the entire Hemings family. 317 00:19:03,788 --> 00:19:06,541 {\an8}James Hemings would've been my great-great-great-great uncle. 318 00:19:06,624 --> 00:19:09,669 His brother Peter was my great-great-great grandfather. 319 00:19:09,752 --> 00:19:13,006 And so, I feel a special relationship to this mac and cheese. 320 00:19:13,089 --> 00:19:15,466 -[Stephen] Rightfully so. -[women chuckle] 321 00:19:15,550 --> 00:19:17,927 So you must have grown up eating mac and cheese. 322 00:19:18,011 --> 00:19:19,220 We all did, didn't we? 323 00:19:19,304 --> 00:19:20,722 -Yeah, we all did, right? -Yeah. 324 00:19:20,805 --> 00:19:23,474 And so, how did it feel once you realized 325 00:19:23,558 --> 00:19:26,936 that you were a descendant of the person, or the family 326 00:19:27,020 --> 00:19:28,938 that helped popularize this dish in the US? 327 00:19:29,022 --> 00:19:31,900 Well, first of all, I didn't grow up with that knowledge. 328 00:19:31,983 --> 00:19:34,485 I didn't learn that until recently. 329 00:19:34,569 --> 00:19:37,405 And now that I know that, I'm wondering where my royalties are. 330 00:19:37,488 --> 00:19:38,823 [all laughing] 331 00:19:38,907 --> 00:19:39,908 [Dr. Sorensen] Thank you. 332 00:19:39,991 --> 00:19:42,952 -We're all wondering that, actually. -[all chuckle] 333 00:19:43,036 --> 00:19:47,498 [Gayle] Beyond that, listen, it's really an honor. 334 00:19:47,582 --> 00:19:50,251 I'm lucky enough to know that history, 335 00:19:50,835 --> 00:19:55,673 but every Black American has something like that in their backgrounds. 336 00:19:55,757 --> 00:19:57,550 They just don't know it. 337 00:19:57,634 --> 00:19:59,219 So, I'm honored, I'm privileged, 338 00:19:59,302 --> 00:20:01,471 and I can't wait to taste this mac and cheese. 339 00:20:02,180 --> 00:20:04,766 -[Dr. Sorensen] If you will hand me… -[Stephen] So good. 340 00:20:04,849 --> 00:20:07,018 -…our tasting dishes… -[Gayle] Oh, boy. 341 00:20:07,101 --> 00:20:09,562 -…we will indulge ourselves. 342 00:20:09,646 --> 00:20:11,064 [Gayle] I'm so excited. 343 00:20:14,734 --> 00:20:16,194 [Stephen] Wow, looks so good. 344 00:20:16,277 --> 00:20:17,612 [Gayle] It does look good. 345 00:20:22,909 --> 00:20:25,078 -Mmm. -[Gayle] Oh, it's so rich. Mmm. 346 00:20:25,161 --> 00:20:27,372 -[Stephen] Wow. -[Dr. Sorensen] Mm-hmm. 347 00:20:27,455 --> 00:20:28,748 [Stephen] So creamy, too. 348 00:20:28,831 --> 00:20:31,542 And how old is this recipe, Leni? 349 00:20:31,626 --> 00:20:33,253 -Two hundred years old. -[Stephen] Whoa! 350 00:20:33,336 --> 00:20:35,088 And probably older. 351 00:20:35,171 --> 00:20:37,006 Wow. You know what I love? 352 00:20:37,090 --> 00:20:38,967 Since you cooked it in the milk, 353 00:20:39,050 --> 00:20:40,718 there's a silkiness, 354 00:20:40,802 --> 00:20:42,470 a luxuriousness on the noodle. 355 00:20:42,553 --> 00:20:44,973 I'll have to cook mac and cheese this way from now on. 356 00:20:45,056 --> 00:20:49,352 Yeah, no, I have begun doing that, and I love it. I really love it. 357 00:20:50,478 --> 00:20:53,356 So, Gayle, what do you think your ancestors would think 358 00:20:53,439 --> 00:20:56,567 about the fact that this dish has become so popular? 359 00:20:56,651 --> 00:20:57,568 [Gayle] Gosh. 360 00:20:58,528 --> 00:21:01,698 Well, I'll tell you how I think about it. 361 00:21:01,781 --> 00:21:04,450 I'm kind of just blown away by the idea 362 00:21:04,534 --> 00:21:07,620 that my ancestors helped originate 363 00:21:07,704 --> 00:21:11,624 this dish in the United States of America, which has become an American staple. 364 00:21:12,750 --> 00:21:15,503 I'm proud of the stamina they had, 365 00:21:15,586 --> 00:21:19,173 the determination they had, the character they had. 366 00:21:19,716 --> 00:21:21,843 I don't think anyone can imagine 367 00:21:21,926 --> 00:21:25,179 what it would have been like to live under those circumstances, 368 00:21:25,263 --> 00:21:28,725 knowing that you would never be free. 369 00:21:29,434 --> 00:21:32,937 And they survived and then some. 370 00:21:34,522 --> 00:21:36,774 Because I'm standing here today. 371 00:21:36,858 --> 00:21:39,027 -We're standing here today… -[Dr. Sorensen] Mm-hmm. 372 00:21:39,110 --> 00:21:42,030 …and I get so emotional about this, because of them, 373 00:21:42,113 --> 00:21:43,781 because of their strength. 374 00:21:43,865 --> 00:21:45,158 We stand on their shoulders. 375 00:21:45,241 --> 00:21:47,410 This is nice, I like mac and cheese. 376 00:21:47,493 --> 00:21:48,870 We can use it as a symbol, 377 00:21:48,953 --> 00:21:51,122 but let's think of who those people really were, 378 00:21:51,205 --> 00:21:53,833 their strength, their character, their endurance. 379 00:21:53,916 --> 00:21:55,752 So, yeah, I'm super proud. 380 00:21:57,378 --> 00:22:00,340 Not just because I'm descended from them, 381 00:22:00,423 --> 00:22:03,843 but because they represent the very best 382 00:22:03,926 --> 00:22:05,595 of the United States of America. 383 00:22:05,678 --> 00:22:07,680 [classical music playing] 384 00:22:09,932 --> 00:22:11,184 [Stephen] Leaving Monticello, 385 00:22:11,267 --> 00:22:13,603 I thought a lot about what it must have been like 386 00:22:13,686 --> 00:22:16,564 for James Hemings to train his own brother 387 00:22:16,647 --> 00:22:18,149 in exchange for his freedom, 388 00:22:18,983 --> 00:22:21,903 {\an8}and what his life must have been like afterwards. 389 00:22:23,279 --> 00:22:24,989 So, what happens to Hemings? 390 00:22:25,823 --> 00:22:29,911 [Adrian] So Hemings teaches not only his brother Peter, but others, 391 00:22:29,994 --> 00:22:32,163 {\an8}at Monticello how to cook. 392 00:22:32,246 --> 00:22:34,040 {\an8}And then he's freed. 393 00:22:36,876 --> 00:22:38,961 He goes off to Philadelphia, 394 00:22:39,045 --> 00:22:41,297 and then eventually he makes his way to Baltimore. 395 00:22:43,091 --> 00:22:45,134 What happens to him in Baltimore? 396 00:22:45,218 --> 00:22:48,721 [Adrian] He's either a caterer  or a restaurateur in Baltimore, 397 00:22:48,805 --> 00:22:49,889 stays there for a while, 398 00:22:49,972 --> 00:22:53,518 and then ultimately, Jefferson gets news that he dies. 399 00:22:53,601 --> 00:22:55,228 He drinks himself to death. 400 00:22:57,647 --> 00:23:01,609 Now, some historians argue about whether that happened or not, 401 00:23:01,692 --> 00:23:05,154 if it was suicide or just an accidental drinking himself to death, 402 00:23:05,238 --> 00:23:07,115 but he ultimately ended up dying. 403 00:23:10,284 --> 00:23:13,663 I'm convinced that he would have been Jefferson's White House chef 404 00:23:13,746 --> 00:23:17,834 had he stayed alive a few months longer. I think he would have made a play for him. 405 00:23:17,917 --> 00:23:20,128 He had invested so much in Hemings 406 00:23:20,211 --> 00:23:23,256 and really respected his talent, and loved his food. 407 00:23:24,507 --> 00:23:27,593 [Stephen] So, this is a Virginia ham,  of course. 408 00:23:27,677 --> 00:23:29,637 Is this something that would have been served 409 00:23:29,720 --> 00:23:32,765 to Jefferson and Washington by their enslaved chefs? 410 00:23:32,849 --> 00:23:37,478 Absolutely. So, Virginia hams are famous in their time, as well as now. 411 00:23:37,562 --> 00:23:40,815 And when a president entertained, they wanted to show the very best 412 00:23:40,898 --> 00:23:43,192 of what they had to offer from their home state, 413 00:23:43,276 --> 00:23:45,403 and Virginia hams had that kind of reputation. 414 00:23:45,486 --> 00:23:48,072 -Mm-hmm. -[Adrian] In addition to Virginia hams, 415 00:23:48,156 --> 00:23:51,534 you could have had beef, fish, other kind of well-regarded dish, 416 00:23:51,617 --> 00:23:54,745 but certainly Virginia ham had celebrity status. 417 00:23:54,829 --> 00:23:56,330 Well, should we try some? 418 00:23:56,414 --> 00:23:58,040 -[Adrian] Absolutely! -All right. 419 00:24:09,719 --> 00:24:10,553 [Adrian] Nice. 420 00:24:10,636 --> 00:24:12,930 -Good stuff, right? -That's what I'm talking about. 421 00:24:13,431 --> 00:24:16,726 [Stephen] So, Hercules, who is Washington's enslaved chef. 422 00:24:16,809 --> 00:24:18,811 What ends up happening with him? 423 00:24:19,228 --> 00:24:22,356 [Adrian] There's indications that towards the end of his second term, 424 00:24:22,440 --> 00:24:26,360 Washington does start to suspect that Hercules might try to escape. 425 00:24:26,444 --> 00:24:28,905 He actually sends Hercules back to Mount Vernon. 426 00:24:28,988 --> 00:24:33,367 There are records that he's actually doing hard labor in the fields at Mount Vernon. 427 00:24:33,451 --> 00:24:34,785 Hercules wants to be free. 428 00:24:34,869 --> 00:24:38,122 So, he waits until Washington's 65th birthday. 429 00:24:38,206 --> 00:24:40,208 There was a big celebration planned, 430 00:24:40,291 --> 00:24:43,169 and while all that was going on, he disappears. 431 00:24:43,252 --> 00:24:47,173 Washington, who had a volcanic temper, was really upset about this. 432 00:24:47,256 --> 00:24:48,883 He's writing letters to associates. 433 00:24:48,966 --> 00:24:51,677 He's just trying to find out Hercules' whereabouts, 434 00:24:51,761 --> 00:24:54,639 even a year after Hercules escapes. 435 00:24:54,722 --> 00:24:56,390 They just never catch up to him. 436 00:24:56,474 --> 00:25:00,686 It's really not until 1801, the same year that Hemings dies, 437 00:25:00,770 --> 00:25:04,982 that Hercules is spotted in New York City by the Mayor of New York City, 438 00:25:05,066 --> 00:25:07,109 who used to work with Washington. 439 00:25:07,193 --> 00:25:09,028 And he alerts Martha Washington, 440 00:25:09,111 --> 00:25:11,572 because Washington had already died by this point, 441 00:25:11,656 --> 00:25:15,159 about Hercules' whereabouts, but that's the last we hear of Hercules. 442 00:25:16,577 --> 00:25:19,038 [Stephen] We don't know  what happens to Hercules, 443 00:25:19,121 --> 00:25:21,582 but there is some recent evidence that suggests 444 00:25:21,666 --> 00:25:23,209 that he was here in New York City? 445 00:25:23,292 --> 00:25:28,381 Right, so thanks to some dogged research by a crack genealogist and some others, 446 00:25:28,464 --> 00:25:31,092 we find out that Hercules was in New York City, 447 00:25:31,175 --> 00:25:36,013 he took on the name of his previous slaveholder before Washington, 448 00:25:36,097 --> 00:25:37,431 a guy named John Posey. 449 00:25:37,515 --> 00:25:39,433 So he called himself Hercules Posey. 450 00:25:39,517 --> 00:25:42,520 We know that he lived in various places in New York, 451 00:25:42,603 --> 00:25:45,815 and was listed as a cook and a laborer, 452 00:25:45,898 --> 00:25:50,069 and he ends up dying on May 15, 1812 of consumption, 453 00:25:50,152 --> 00:25:52,989 which is what we would call tuberculosis to this day. 454 00:25:53,072 --> 00:25:57,243 So his remains are believed buried somewhere in New York City. 455 00:25:57,326 --> 00:25:58,953 We don't know exactly where, 456 00:25:59,036 --> 00:26:01,497 but he did spend his final days in New York City. 457 00:26:02,039 --> 00:26:04,125 So he's still here with us, somewhere. 458 00:26:04,208 --> 00:26:08,004 [Adrian] He's still here with us, I think it's a wonderful metaphor for his life, 459 00:26:08,087 --> 00:26:10,673 and also these esteemed African American cooks, 460 00:26:10,756 --> 00:26:13,342 because in many ways they're still hiding in plain sight, 461 00:26:13,426 --> 00:26:16,429 not fully accepted, not fully recognized. 462 00:26:16,512 --> 00:26:19,265 And part of our endeavors here 463 00:26:19,348 --> 00:26:22,226 is to really show their contributions to American cuisine, 464 00:26:22,310 --> 00:26:26,439 and show how much they were foundational to the foods that we love today. 465 00:26:34,113 --> 00:26:36,824 [Stephen] Hercules was not  the only culinary legend 466 00:26:36,907 --> 00:26:39,744 whose contributions were lost to the shadows of New York City. 467 00:26:41,454 --> 00:26:44,999 As I dug further into food history in the Big Apple, 468 00:26:45,082 --> 00:26:47,710 I discovered that back in the 1800s, 469 00:26:47,793 --> 00:26:49,670 oysters were the biggest game in town. 470 00:26:50,880 --> 00:26:54,425 And it was a free Black man named Thomas Downing 471 00:26:54,508 --> 00:26:57,970 who built an empire in the heart of Wall Street 472 00:26:58,054 --> 00:27:01,140 and was known as the oyster king of the city. 473 00:27:04,560 --> 00:27:06,062 {\an8}"Recipe for New York Oyster Stew, 474 00:27:06,145 --> 00:27:08,606 {\an8}circa 1826, for Thomas Downing." 475 00:27:09,899 --> 00:27:11,484 [Stephen] My friend, chef Omar Tate, 476 00:27:11,567 --> 00:27:15,196 has dedicated his craft and art to Thomas Downing 477 00:27:15,279 --> 00:27:18,115 and other Black entrepreneurs of the Mid-Atlantic states. 478 00:27:20,534 --> 00:27:23,663 [Omar] "Made from hand-gathered oysters, as many as one can carry. 479 00:27:23,746 --> 00:27:25,539 Sea salt and lime and mineral deposits 480 00:27:25,623 --> 00:27:27,917 displayed high as the galoshes and then some. 481 00:27:29,251 --> 00:27:31,087 Cook time, several moons. 482 00:27:34,090 --> 00:27:35,925 Add cream and allow it to reduce. 483 00:27:36,008 --> 00:27:39,136 Reduce it 'til there's nothing but brown. Rich and plenty. 484 00:27:39,220 --> 00:27:41,722 Until it reduces and it's no longer white. 485 00:27:41,806 --> 00:27:43,391 Until it reduces your suffering. 486 00:27:43,474 --> 00:27:46,268 Until it reduces the time between when you last saw your wife, 487 00:27:46,352 --> 00:27:47,853 children, mother. 488 00:27:47,937 --> 00:27:49,980 Reduce it down, slow, patient. 489 00:27:53,651 --> 00:27:54,485 Pro tip. 490 00:27:55,069 --> 00:27:56,278 Watch carefully. 491 00:27:56,362 --> 00:27:58,197 Cream rises and spills over. 492 00:27:58,280 --> 00:28:00,324 Serve hot, immediately." 493 00:28:04,578 --> 00:28:06,872 [Stephen] For the last ten years or so, 494 00:28:06,956 --> 00:28:09,917 you've been cooking in some of the best restaurants 495 00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:11,293 in New York and Philly. 496 00:28:11,877 --> 00:28:14,880 So, what's, kind of, your mission as a chef? 497 00:28:14,964 --> 00:28:17,383 I label myself as Black heritage cooking, 498 00:28:17,466 --> 00:28:20,386 and I'm trying to de-frame what it is, 499 00:28:20,469 --> 00:28:23,514 as African Americans, we can put out there in the food space. 500 00:28:23,597 --> 00:28:28,978 I think oftentimes when people look at Black foodways, 501 00:28:29,061 --> 00:28:32,565 as a chef, people assume "Okay, Southern food, fried chicken." 502 00:28:32,648 --> 00:28:34,608 There are many more stories to tell. 503 00:28:36,360 --> 00:28:38,446 [Stephen] One of the explorations 504 00:28:38,529 --> 00:28:41,991 that you've jumped off on is Thomas Downing. 505 00:28:42,533 --> 00:28:44,535 [folk guitar plays] 506 00:28:45,828 --> 00:28:48,664 [Omar] Thomas Downing was a man who built up 507 00:28:48,748 --> 00:28:51,709 one of the best oyster restaurants in New York City on Wall Street 508 00:28:51,792 --> 00:28:53,669 in the 19th century to mid-19th century, 509 00:28:53,753 --> 00:28:58,090 during a time when most African Americans in this country were still enslaved. 510 00:29:00,050 --> 00:29:04,138 It's just like a phenomenal story that people don't know about. 511 00:29:04,221 --> 00:29:05,306 [Stephen] As an oyster town, 512 00:29:05,389 --> 00:29:08,225 there's oysters, you know, piled on the streets, 513 00:29:08,309 --> 00:29:10,352 there's oyster shells on the sidewalk. 514 00:29:10,436 --> 00:29:15,316 We've been using oyster shells to make some of the mortar for buildings. 515 00:29:15,399 --> 00:29:16,233 [Omar] Yup. 516 00:29:16,317 --> 00:29:19,320 So this is the environment that Downing walks into, right? 517 00:29:19,403 --> 00:29:22,031 [Omar] Yeah. But he starts out collecting and harvesting, 518 00:29:22,114 --> 00:29:25,451 and then selling as an individual, 519 00:29:25,534 --> 00:29:27,203 and then builds off of that. 520 00:29:28,037 --> 00:29:29,914 People were selling oysters outside. 521 00:29:30,414 --> 00:29:34,794 So basically, like a hot dog stand equivalent of the day. 522 00:29:34,877 --> 00:29:36,337 Exactly. Yeah. 523 00:29:36,420 --> 00:29:38,547 I read that, at the time, 524 00:29:38,631 --> 00:29:41,884 New Yorkers, on average, were eating 600 oysters a year. 525 00:29:41,967 --> 00:29:42,802 [Omar chuckles] 526 00:29:42,885 --> 00:29:46,931 What were they, like, a half a penny, you know, at that time? 527 00:29:47,014 --> 00:29:48,224 What a luxury. 528 00:29:48,307 --> 00:29:50,935 Well, should we… 529 00:29:51,018 --> 00:29:53,938 -explore the culinary side of your work? -[Omar laughs] 530 00:29:55,397 --> 00:29:56,982 [lively strings play] 531 00:29:57,066 --> 00:29:59,527 [Omar] I mean,  particularly with this dish, um, 532 00:29:59,610 --> 00:30:03,906 because Thomas Downing is unique and very specific to the New York story, 533 00:30:03,989 --> 00:30:07,451 I wanted to bring together things specific and unique to New York in general. 534 00:30:07,535 --> 00:30:10,454 So, this dish, there are two applications of oysters. 535 00:30:10,538 --> 00:30:13,249 Oyster stew was very popular in the 19th century. 536 00:30:13,332 --> 00:30:17,253 [Stephen] So, the soup has cream, thyme, 537 00:30:17,336 --> 00:30:18,546 a little bit of… 538 00:30:18,629 --> 00:30:20,923 [Omar] Yeah. Cream, thyme, black pepper, 539 00:30:21,006 --> 00:30:23,175 oyster fat, which is a very special component. 540 00:30:23,259 --> 00:30:27,555 It's oysters that got poached at, like, 140 degrees for several hours, 541 00:30:27,638 --> 00:30:32,059 blended until all the flavors lend itself into the oil. 542 00:30:32,142 --> 00:30:36,397 It's a very clean, pure oyster flavor that I use to cook the vegetables down in. 543 00:30:36,480 --> 00:30:39,900 The vegetables are garlic, onion and celery. 544 00:30:39,984 --> 00:30:43,070 So, it's just like layers of oyster on top of itself. 545 00:30:43,153 --> 00:30:44,655 [Stephen] Oyster on oyster. 546 00:30:44,738 --> 00:30:46,949 All right, well, bon appetit to us. 547 00:30:47,032 --> 00:30:48,158 [Omar] Cheers, man. 548 00:30:49,159 --> 00:30:50,703 -Cheers. -[laughs] 549 00:30:54,206 --> 00:30:55,082 Oh, wow. 550 00:30:55,165 --> 00:30:56,292 Yeah, what do you think? 551 00:30:56,375 --> 00:30:57,918 It's so good, man. 552 00:30:58,002 --> 00:31:02,298 I really taste the richness of that oyster fat. 553 00:31:02,381 --> 00:31:06,802 It adds such an intensity and complexity to the soup. 554 00:31:06,886 --> 00:31:08,512 I'm very happy with this. 555 00:31:08,596 --> 00:31:09,638 -[Omar laughs] -Right? 556 00:31:09,722 --> 00:31:11,098 This is actually the first time 557 00:31:11,181 --> 00:31:13,434 I'm sitting and eating this with a person, so… [laughs] 558 00:31:13,517 --> 00:31:15,269 I'm just as excited as you. 559 00:31:19,231 --> 00:31:20,232 Mmm. 560 00:31:20,941 --> 00:31:22,276 I love the apple there. 561 00:31:22,943 --> 00:31:24,570 That's so refreshing to eat. 562 00:31:25,237 --> 00:31:26,280 [Omar] Very good. 563 00:31:26,363 --> 00:31:27,197 Very good. 564 00:31:27,281 --> 00:31:31,452 Mmm. It tastes like limestone and herbs, and apple. 565 00:31:32,411 --> 00:31:34,914 Let's talk a little bit more about him as a restaurateur, 566 00:31:34,997 --> 00:31:37,583 -[Omar] Mm-hmm. -because from what I understand, you know, 567 00:31:37,666 --> 00:31:40,252 obviously there's a lot of oyster taverns back in the day. 568 00:31:40,336 --> 00:31:43,881 But his restaurant is a place where, 569 00:31:43,964 --> 00:31:47,968 you know, bankers, attorneys, politicians are all coming to eat. 570 00:31:48,052 --> 00:31:50,971 One hundred percent. I mean, in my opinion, 571 00:31:51,055 --> 00:31:53,682 Thomas Downing walked into the dive bar scene and was like, 572 00:31:53,766 --> 00:31:55,809 "We need a cocktail lounge." Know what I mean? 573 00:31:57,394 --> 00:31:59,480 [Stephen] The story is pretty amazing, 574 00:31:59,563 --> 00:32:03,567 because in the basement of this extremely fancy restaurant, 575 00:32:03,651 --> 00:32:06,779 Thomas Downing and his son George 576 00:32:06,862 --> 00:32:12,242 are helping to harbor folks who have run away from slavery. 577 00:32:12,326 --> 00:32:13,160 [Omar] Right. 578 00:32:13,243 --> 00:32:14,912 [Stephen] And the juxtaposition of that 579 00:32:14,995 --> 00:32:18,540 just makes Downing, to me,  one of the iconic-- 580 00:32:18,624 --> 00:32:20,042 -He's a superhero. -Really. 581 00:32:20,125 --> 00:32:21,752 I love that part of his story. 582 00:32:21,835 --> 00:32:25,798 He's able to navigate those two worlds so seamlessly. 583 00:32:25,881 --> 00:32:28,550 So much so that when he dies, 584 00:32:28,634 --> 00:32:30,928 the Chamber of Commerce shuts down for the day. 585 00:32:31,011 --> 00:32:32,179 Right. 586 00:32:32,262 --> 00:32:35,224 I mean, the rumor… There's like 1,000 people at his funeral. 587 00:32:35,307 --> 00:32:36,892 I mean, wow, right? 588 00:32:36,976 --> 00:32:41,271 But why do you feel like it's so important to keep his work and his legacy alive? 589 00:32:41,897 --> 00:32:44,024 I never had an oyster until I was 22 years old. 590 00:32:44,108 --> 00:32:44,942 [Stephen] Wow. 591 00:32:45,025 --> 00:32:48,487 [Omar] And I only experienced them because I became a professional cook 592 00:32:48,570 --> 00:32:51,156 and started working at a fine-dining restaurant in Philly. 593 00:32:51,240 --> 00:32:54,368 And so, we were serving only white folks, 594 00:32:54,451 --> 00:32:57,454 so oysters seemed to be only for white folks to me, you know? 595 00:32:57,538 --> 00:33:01,291 For me, it was about reclaiming that, 596 00:33:01,375 --> 00:33:05,004 because not only is it our history, 597 00:33:05,087 --> 00:33:08,465 but the fine part of it is our history as well. 598 00:33:08,549 --> 00:33:12,219 And Thomas Downing is completely and 100% responsible for that. 599 00:33:15,597 --> 00:33:18,726 [Stephen] But Thomas Downing wouldn't have been at the top of his game 600 00:33:18,809 --> 00:33:21,729 without the working-class Black oystermen that supported him. 601 00:33:22,479 --> 00:33:26,275 {\an8}And they built their community on the water's edge of Staten Island 602 00:33:26,358 --> 00:33:28,318 {\an8}and called it "Sandy Ground." 603 00:33:31,321 --> 00:33:36,243 Can you tell me what made Sandy Ground so special historically? 604 00:33:38,078 --> 00:33:43,459 {\an8}Sandy Ground is the oldest continuously inhabited African American community 605 00:33:43,542 --> 00:33:45,169 {\an8}in the United States, 606 00:33:45,252 --> 00:33:49,923 settled by free Blacks with descendants still living in the community. 607 00:33:54,344 --> 00:33:57,222 New York supplied the world with oysters, 608 00:33:57,306 --> 00:33:59,558 and as an oystering community, 609 00:33:59,641 --> 00:34:02,561 it grew to 180 families, 610 00:34:03,103 --> 00:34:05,355 two churches, and two schools. 611 00:34:05,439 --> 00:34:09,276 Right out here on the south shore of Staten Island. 612 00:34:10,194 --> 00:34:14,448 They were able to harvest enough oysters to be able to live and, 613 00:34:15,616 --> 00:34:17,826 you know, take care of their families. 614 00:34:20,329 --> 00:34:23,832 Growing up in Sandy Ground gave me the confidence that I needed 615 00:34:23,916 --> 00:34:26,418 to step out wherever I wanted to go. 616 00:34:26,502 --> 00:34:30,923 And so that oyster community, 617 00:34:31,006 --> 00:34:34,218 with all those people that looked just like me, 618 00:34:34,301 --> 00:34:37,763 helped me to know that I could be whatever I wanted to be. 619 00:34:37,846 --> 00:34:38,764 [Stephen] Mm-hmm. 620 00:34:39,681 --> 00:34:42,684 That's such an important part of our legacy, too. 621 00:34:43,268 --> 00:34:44,144 I think, 622 00:34:45,020 --> 00:34:48,857 often when we talk about our ancestors and our history, 623 00:34:49,566 --> 00:34:53,695 we tend to talk about them in a way that makes it feel like 624 00:34:53,779 --> 00:34:56,240 -we have all been erased. -Mm-hmm. 625 00:34:56,323 --> 00:34:59,618 And what's more true is what you're saying, is that 626 00:34:59,701 --> 00:35:01,870 their legacies live in us. 627 00:35:01,954 --> 00:35:07,167 Sandy Ground is included in the state and national registers of historic places. 628 00:35:07,251 --> 00:35:11,421 So there will always be a record for somebody who wants to look for it. 629 00:35:12,297 --> 00:35:15,801 Communities change, but the history remains the same. 630 00:35:18,595 --> 00:35:19,972 [gentle guitar plays] 631 00:35:29,523 --> 00:35:31,525 [Stephen] When I think about New York City, 632 00:35:31,608 --> 00:35:33,068 I think about ambition. 633 00:35:35,154 --> 00:35:39,449 And the spirit of Thomas Downing and the Black oystermen was alive and well 634 00:35:39,533 --> 00:35:41,118 in the heart of Brooklyn, 635 00:35:42,202 --> 00:35:44,204 in "do or die" Bed-Stuy. 636 00:35:44,913 --> 00:35:46,915 [gentle music continues] 637 00:35:58,594 --> 00:36:00,470 -Hey, what's up, guys? -[man] Mothershuckers. 638 00:36:00,554 --> 00:36:02,639 -[woman] Mothershuckers. -[Ben] Wanna try some oysters? 639 00:36:02,723 --> 00:36:03,724 -Yeah. -[Ben] Yeah? 640 00:36:03,807 --> 00:36:05,267 [woman] I've never had an oyster. 641 00:36:05,809 --> 00:36:06,643 All right. 642 00:36:07,352 --> 00:36:09,104 -There you guys go. -Thank you. 643 00:36:10,230 --> 00:36:11,106 Yo. 644 00:36:12,649 --> 00:36:14,026 -Very fresh. -[man] This is good. 645 00:36:15,569 --> 00:36:16,486 I'm here for it. 646 00:36:17,112 --> 00:36:20,824 Ben Harney is better known out here as "the real mothershucker," 647 00:36:20,908 --> 00:36:23,619 and his oyster cart takes it all the way back 648 00:36:23,702 --> 00:36:26,205 to the beginning of Thomas Downing's legacy. 649 00:36:26,830 --> 00:36:28,999 Yo, what's up, guys? You want to try some oysters? 650 00:36:29,082 --> 00:36:31,627 -[man 1] Let's do this. -[man 2] I'll take it. I'll try an oyster. 651 00:36:31,710 --> 00:36:33,754 -Hell, yeah. That's what's up. -Little oysters. 652 00:36:33,837 --> 00:36:35,672 Oysters raise your libido. 653 00:36:35,756 --> 00:36:38,008 -That's the rumor. Right? -Yeah, is it true? 654 00:36:38,091 --> 00:36:39,426 [Ben] That's what everybody says. 655 00:36:39,509 --> 00:36:42,095 [man 1] We got the brother  with his oysters. 656 00:36:42,179 --> 00:36:43,013 That's it. 657 00:36:43,096 --> 00:36:46,767 Let me tell you, this is my first time eating an oyster, you know that, right? 658 00:36:46,850 --> 00:36:48,560 I hope you'll be able to swallow it. 659 00:36:48,644 --> 00:36:49,686 [Ben] Don't worry about it. 660 00:36:49,811 --> 00:36:51,688 [man 1] Yeah, they got a brother  selling oyster. 661 00:36:51,772 --> 00:36:55,442 -It better not be nasty. We can cook. -[Ben] We're not allowed to do that. 662 00:36:55,525 --> 00:36:58,445 -[man 2] In your mouth, like a shovel. -[Ben] Throw it back. 663 00:36:58,528 --> 00:36:59,780 Just put it down. 664 00:36:59,863 --> 00:37:03,033 -You put fear in me. I'm telling you. -Ain't nothing to be scared of. 665 00:37:03,116 --> 00:37:04,284 -You ready? -[man 2] Yeah, you? 666 00:37:04,368 --> 00:37:06,662 We're doing this for Brooklyn because we in Brooklyn. 667 00:37:06,745 --> 00:37:09,790 -That's my guy. I like-- This my guy. -One, two, three. Let's go. 668 00:37:10,707 --> 00:37:11,541 [man 2] Mmm! 669 00:37:13,293 --> 00:37:15,629 Tastes like outside. Like the ocean. 670 00:37:15,712 --> 00:37:17,172 -That's official. -[Ben] Mm-hmm. 671 00:37:18,715 --> 00:37:23,929 So how many people have you put on to oysters for the first time? 672 00:37:24,012 --> 00:37:29,017 Yo! Across the board, men, women, children, you know? 673 00:37:29,101 --> 00:37:31,436 {\an8}It's one of my favorite things to do, 674 00:37:31,520 --> 00:37:33,939 {\an8}is to stop somebody and be like, "You want an oyster?" 675 00:37:34,022 --> 00:37:35,565 {\an8}And they're like, "Ew, oysters?" 676 00:37:35,649 --> 00:37:38,068 And then I'm like, "Have you ever had an oyster?" 677 00:37:38,151 --> 00:37:41,238 And they're like, "No… but I don't like them." 678 00:37:41,321 --> 00:37:43,865 "How do you know you don't if you've never tried it?" 679 00:37:43,949 --> 00:37:45,826 [Stephen] So, talk to me about the name. 680 00:37:45,909 --> 00:37:47,536 -You got a great name… -[Ben chuckles] 681 00:37:47,619 --> 00:37:48,870 …the Real Mothershuckers. 682 00:37:48,954 --> 00:37:52,207 I was always going out places, and people always would be like, 683 00:37:52,291 --> 00:37:54,167 "So you're a bad mothershucker, huh?" 684 00:37:54,251 --> 00:37:55,877 It was the constant joke, you know? 685 00:37:55,961 --> 00:37:57,504 So after a while, I was just like, 686 00:37:57,587 --> 00:38:01,717 "You know what? That actually fits, it sounds good, and it's simple." 687 00:38:01,800 --> 00:38:03,260 I'm a mothershucker! 688 00:38:03,343 --> 00:38:05,804 -[Stephen] Yeah, no. Strong name. -You know? Yeah. 689 00:38:05,887 --> 00:38:08,015 [Stephen] Cool, well,  should we taste some? 690 00:38:08,098 --> 00:38:10,267 -[Ben] Hell, yeah. Yeah. -[Stephen] Okay. 691 00:38:10,350 --> 00:38:12,436 [Stephen] Do you have a ritual, should we cheers it? 692 00:38:12,519 --> 00:38:14,563 -Yeah, cheers. -[Stephen] All right, cool. Cheers. 693 00:38:14,646 --> 00:38:15,522 Thank you. 694 00:38:20,610 --> 00:38:21,778 [Stephen] Mmm. 695 00:38:22,654 --> 00:38:24,114 -Think about that? -I like that a lot. 696 00:38:24,197 --> 00:38:25,407 [Ben] Mm-hmm. 697 00:38:25,490 --> 00:38:26,867 -Upside down. -Mm-hmm. 698 00:38:26,950 --> 00:38:28,368 Mmm. 699 00:38:28,452 --> 00:38:29,494 It goes down easily. 700 00:38:30,078 --> 00:38:32,247 All right, I'm going to do a mignonette one now. 701 00:38:39,046 --> 00:38:40,380 -Oh, that's real good. -Right? 702 00:38:41,340 --> 00:38:43,216 It's got a nice little bite to it, 703 00:38:43,300 --> 00:38:45,218 something you can actually chew. 704 00:38:45,302 --> 00:38:47,304 -Yeah, it's got a little bounce. Yeah. -Mm-hmm. 705 00:38:47,387 --> 00:38:52,726 Why was it important for you to come to Bed-Stuy to start your oyster cart? 706 00:38:52,809 --> 00:38:56,772 [Ben] This is where I'm from and now, the area has erupted, 707 00:38:56,855 --> 00:39:00,442 it's literally become the happening place to be. 708 00:39:00,525 --> 00:39:04,905 And so, for me, introducing oysters into the area that I grew up 709 00:39:04,988 --> 00:39:06,698 and to the people that I grew up with, 710 00:39:06,782 --> 00:39:09,659 is something that's really important because 711 00:39:09,743 --> 00:39:12,704 it's always been seen as somewhat of an elitist thing. 712 00:39:12,788 --> 00:39:16,750 Our people are familiar with crabs, 713 00:39:16,833 --> 00:39:18,585 they're familiar with shrimp, 714 00:39:18,668 --> 00:39:22,339 they're familiar with lobster, and they'll go crazy for them. 715 00:39:22,422 --> 00:39:23,799 But oysters, and it's like, 716 00:39:23,882 --> 00:39:26,593 "Ew, we don't do that. We don't eat that." You know? 717 00:39:26,676 --> 00:39:30,472 And I'm just like, why? We do everything. There's nothing that we don't do. 718 00:39:30,555 --> 00:39:33,934 There's nothing that's not our thing, you know? 719 00:39:41,942 --> 00:39:43,527 [Stephen] I'm continually amazed 720 00:39:43,610 --> 00:39:48,156 by the force of our creativity and determination as Black Americans. 721 00:39:48,240 --> 00:39:54,413 And in the 19th century, few places held more possibility for us than Philadelphia. 722 00:39:55,705 --> 00:39:57,749 We were free here some 80 years 723 00:39:57,833 --> 00:40:00,544 before the Emancipation Proclamation was issued. 724 00:40:02,504 --> 00:40:04,589 {\an8}And Philly was home to a rich legacy 725 00:40:04,673 --> 00:40:06,550 of Black entrepreneurship, 726 00:40:06,633 --> 00:40:10,095 from street vendors hawking the famous pepper pot stew, 727 00:40:10,178 --> 00:40:13,056 to the elite families of Black caterers. 728 00:40:16,476 --> 00:40:20,689 So, we're in Philly, a place that you have roots with. 729 00:40:20,772 --> 00:40:22,524 {\an8}Can you tell me about your family? 730 00:40:22,607 --> 00:40:27,279 {\an8}Yes, so I come from one of the great Black catering families of Philadelphia. 731 00:40:27,362 --> 00:40:29,573 I didn't know before doing a lot of this research 732 00:40:29,656 --> 00:40:32,784 that catering was started by African Americans, 733 00:40:32,868 --> 00:40:34,911 great entrepreneurs in the 1800s, 734 00:40:34,995 --> 00:40:38,248 and my family was one of those first pioneers of that, 735 00:40:38,331 --> 00:40:39,207 the Dutrieuilles. 736 00:40:39,291 --> 00:40:42,711 This is one of the first photos I saw of the family that I was like, 737 00:40:42,794 --> 00:40:45,422 -"Wait a minute. People looked like this?" -[chuckles] Yes. 738 00:40:45,505 --> 00:40:47,591 "How come we don't know more? What's her story? 739 00:40:47,674 --> 00:40:49,843 Where'd she come from? What are they doing?" 740 00:40:49,926 --> 00:40:51,052 So I love this photo. 741 00:40:51,136 --> 00:40:53,722 -[Stephen] She looks amazing. Yeah. -It says so much. 742 00:40:53,805 --> 00:40:57,100 This is my great-great grandfather, Albert Dutrieuille. 743 00:40:57,184 --> 00:40:59,519 -[Stephen] Very handsome man. -[Lauren chuckles] Yeah. 744 00:40:59,603 --> 00:41:01,480 I love this, this is a good kitchen shot. 745 00:41:01,563 --> 00:41:06,401 It gives you a glimpse of the staff and how things were in the kitchen then. 746 00:41:06,485 --> 00:41:09,154 [Stephen] And the scale too, it's a really large kitchen. 747 00:41:09,237 --> 00:41:12,449 -[Lauren] Yeah. -They're obviously quite organized. 748 00:41:12,532 --> 00:41:14,618 -Everyone looks crispy in the uniforms. -Right. 749 00:41:15,452 --> 00:41:16,453 [Stephen] Love that. 750 00:41:17,537 --> 00:41:19,623 And how did you find this out? 751 00:41:19,706 --> 00:41:23,793 Well, my dad first sent me a photo that he found with, you know, 752 00:41:23,877 --> 00:41:26,087 this family in, like, fancy furs and cars. 753 00:41:26,171 --> 00:41:27,506 And he's like, it turns out 754 00:41:27,589 --> 00:41:31,676 my grandmother's parents had this successful catering business. 755 00:41:31,760 --> 00:41:34,804 I thought, "That was really cool." And I thought it stopped there. 756 00:41:34,888 --> 00:41:38,975 And then last year, a cousin of my dad passed away. 757 00:41:39,059 --> 00:41:40,602 He was living in a home 758 00:41:40,685 --> 00:41:43,063 where the catering business was run out of. 759 00:41:43,146 --> 00:41:45,232 He was telling me about going into the basement 760 00:41:45,315 --> 00:41:47,442 and seeing all of the catering supplies. 761 00:41:48,235 --> 00:41:49,861 And I was just like, "Wait, hold up. 762 00:41:49,945 --> 00:41:51,696 -This house was still in the family… -Yeah? 763 00:41:51,780 --> 00:41:54,199 …and there was still catering stuff lying around?" 764 00:41:54,282 --> 00:41:57,118 First question I asked him was like, "Are there any menus?" 765 00:41:57,202 --> 00:41:59,538 Being a foodie and being in the food scene, 766 00:41:59,621 --> 00:42:03,166 I was just like, I need to get my hands on a menu to recreate this experience. 767 00:42:03,250 --> 00:42:05,460 Honeydew melon showed up on a lot of menus. 768 00:42:05,544 --> 00:42:08,129 Bellevue broth, that was on plenty of menus 769 00:42:08,213 --> 00:42:09,339 that they put together. 770 00:42:09,422 --> 00:42:12,133 Virginia ham and greens, you've got some Southern influence. 771 00:42:12,217 --> 00:42:14,678 Frankfurters and kraut, I thought that was interesting. 772 00:42:14,761 --> 00:42:17,180 [Stephen] Yeah, kind of German influences there, right? 773 00:42:17,264 --> 00:42:18,181 [Lauren] Right. 774 00:42:18,265 --> 00:42:22,018 They range from, like, really simple to pretty decadent with, like, caviar, 775 00:42:22,102 --> 00:42:24,104 filet mignon, stuffed peppers. 776 00:42:24,187 --> 00:42:25,981 It was-- It was really cool. 777 00:42:26,064 --> 00:42:27,857 You know, I'm struck by the menu, 778 00:42:27,941 --> 00:42:33,738 -by, really, how it's a story of… America. -Mm-hmm. 779 00:42:33,822 --> 00:42:35,490 How big was this business? 780 00:42:35,574 --> 00:42:36,866 They were very successful. 781 00:42:36,950 --> 00:42:39,327 It's written like it was a very lucrative business, 782 00:42:39,411 --> 00:42:41,204 well known throughout Philadelphia. 783 00:42:41,288 --> 00:42:42,455 We were at the front. 784 00:42:42,539 --> 00:42:44,833 We were starting the trends, doing the work. 785 00:42:44,916 --> 00:42:48,253 What we know as catering today was started by my family 786 00:42:48,336 --> 00:42:49,879 and these other families back then, 787 00:42:49,963 --> 00:42:53,258 and just to know that, like, we set that tone, owning a business, 788 00:42:53,925 --> 00:42:57,012 um, starting this industry, that's really cool. 789 00:43:00,640 --> 00:43:03,852 [Stephen] To celebrate that history in the City of Brotherly Love, 790 00:43:03,935 --> 00:43:06,605 my man Omar Tate, a Philly native, 791 00:43:06,688 --> 00:43:10,442 cooked a feast inspired by the rich Black food history of Philadelphia. 792 00:43:11,443 --> 00:43:14,613 We were joined by chefs, historians, 793 00:43:14,696 --> 00:43:17,574 and other descendants of the Dutrieuille catering family. 794 00:43:19,117 --> 00:43:20,327 Welcome, everyone. 795 00:43:20,410 --> 00:43:21,661 -Thank you. -Thank you. 796 00:43:21,745 --> 00:43:24,789 Thank you all for coming to this very, very special meal 797 00:43:24,873 --> 00:43:25,874 that we've prepared. 798 00:43:26,583 --> 00:43:30,211 It's super special to me because I grew up here in Philadelphia. 799 00:43:30,295 --> 00:43:33,548 And there's a very, very rich history here in Philadelphia. 800 00:43:33,632 --> 00:43:36,051 These things are important. They don't need to be lost. 801 00:43:36,134 --> 00:43:37,385 They're not gonna be lost. 802 00:43:37,469 --> 00:43:39,846 -Thanks for coming. -[Stephen] Thanks to you. Cheers. 803 00:43:40,555 --> 00:43:43,183 [Omar] The first thing we're gonna have is Bellevue broth, 804 00:43:43,266 --> 00:43:46,895 which is something that I actually learned about by reading the Dutrieuille menu. 805 00:43:46,978 --> 00:43:48,605 I've never heard of it before, 806 00:43:48,688 --> 00:43:51,608 um, but apparently it's been around for a few centuries, 807 00:43:51,691 --> 00:43:55,695 and it's a broth mixture of chicken and just a shellfish broth 808 00:43:55,779 --> 00:43:57,864 with whipped cream and parsley. 809 00:43:57,947 --> 00:44:00,075 I'm really excited to share that with you guys. 810 00:44:00,158 --> 00:44:02,243 -[Stephen] Oh, wow. -[Lauren] Oh, really good. 811 00:44:02,327 --> 00:44:03,745 -Wow. -[woman] Oh, my God. 812 00:44:04,329 --> 00:44:06,164 -[man] That's great. -[woman] How rich is this? 813 00:44:06,247 --> 00:44:08,291 [Stephen] The texture, the weight of it is so good. 814 00:44:08,375 --> 00:44:10,251 [Omar] It gives it a little more body.  Yep. 815 00:44:10,335 --> 00:44:13,797 It's very light, but it has a nice density to it, too. 816 00:44:13,880 --> 00:44:15,674 -Super flavorful. -[woman 2] Yes, it really is. 817 00:44:15,757 --> 00:44:19,511 {\an8}Yeah. It tastes like butter, but without that greasiness. 818 00:44:19,594 --> 00:44:21,137 {\an8}[Harry] Yeah, not as heavy. 819 00:44:21,221 --> 00:44:22,806 -Yum. -[Omar] Yeah. 820 00:44:22,889 --> 00:44:25,308 [Valerie] That's a good word  to describe it, "Yum." 821 00:44:25,392 --> 00:44:27,811 [Lauren] We'd never tried Bellevue broth or heard of it either. 822 00:44:27,894 --> 00:44:29,854 So it's something that they always presented 823 00:44:29,938 --> 00:44:33,400 at the bigger, most upper-class banquets and dinners. 824 00:44:33,483 --> 00:44:36,820 I wonder how many people have tried Bellevue broth, 825 00:44:36,903 --> 00:44:39,489 because if you all found these menus, 826 00:44:39,572 --> 00:44:41,700 and no one at this table's had it, 827 00:44:41,783 --> 00:44:43,535 -you hadn't heard of it before. -[Omar] Right. 828 00:44:43,618 --> 00:44:45,704 [Stephen] Maybe you're connecting  a part of history 829 00:44:45,787 --> 00:44:48,915 that is, like, several decades missing. 830 00:44:48,998 --> 00:44:52,961 Right. I mean, I really hope so. I think it's very important. 831 00:44:53,044 --> 00:44:55,171 A lot of times our history is dark, you know, 832 00:44:55,255 --> 00:44:57,424 or we view it as dark. 833 00:44:57,507 --> 00:45:00,468 But there was just so much beauty between the lines, 834 00:45:00,552 --> 00:45:03,680 and I feel like menus and food is the synthesis that happens 835 00:45:03,763 --> 00:45:05,515 between the lines, in between history. 836 00:45:05,598 --> 00:45:06,433 [Valerie] Absolutely. 837 00:45:06,516 --> 00:45:09,728 -[Stephen] You did it justice. -Yeah, you did. You did a wonderful job. 838 00:45:09,811 --> 00:45:13,356 How do you all feel getting to also taste a part of this history, too? 839 00:45:13,940 --> 00:45:14,941 [Lauren] It feels amazing. 840 00:45:15,024 --> 00:45:18,820 It's really cool to find a talented chef to bring these dishes to life. 841 00:45:18,903 --> 00:45:20,363 Our family, they're so humble, 842 00:45:20,447 --> 00:45:22,532 they never really spoke about this growing up, 843 00:45:22,615 --> 00:45:24,743 you know, so it was kind of a surprise to us. 844 00:45:24,826 --> 00:45:27,078 Alex got to go through the house in Spring Garden… 845 00:45:27,162 --> 00:45:28,913 -[man] Yeah-- -…and clean it out. 846 00:45:28,997 --> 00:45:30,707 It was like my Indiana Jones moment. 847 00:45:30,790 --> 00:45:32,292 [all laughing] 848 00:45:32,375 --> 00:45:35,336 I went to the basement, and I went to dig around, 849 00:45:35,420 --> 00:45:36,796 got dirty and all, you know, 850 00:45:36,880 --> 00:45:39,299 {\an8}the cobwebs and pulled it out and saw the plates. 851 00:45:39,382 --> 00:45:42,761 {\an8}I'm like, what was going on here? There's so much they didn't tell me. 852 00:45:42,844 --> 00:45:48,933 So, Ms. Patty, we are talking about this late 19th-century history, 853 00:45:49,017 --> 00:45:50,769 and talking about the Dutrieuilles, 854 00:45:50,852 --> 00:45:55,857 but our connection to catering actually goes back almost 100 years before. 855 00:45:55,940 --> 00:45:59,778 {\an8}Absolutely. So, Robert Bogle is known as the father of catering, 856 00:45:59,861 --> 00:46:04,115 {\an8}and before him, there wasn't actually a catering profession, 857 00:46:04,199 --> 00:46:06,910 and the word "caterer" wasn't known. 858 00:46:06,993 --> 00:46:11,122 Robert Bogle served both the Black community, 859 00:46:11,206 --> 00:46:15,710 but really was the caterer of choice for the white society as well. 860 00:46:15,794 --> 00:46:17,796 [lively classical string music plays] 861 00:46:18,254 --> 00:46:22,884 [Omar] The next thing is the Virginia ham with greens. 862 00:46:22,967 --> 00:46:26,846 Classic comfort, just simply stewed down with ham, 863 00:46:26,930 --> 00:46:29,474 vegetables, a little bit of aromatics like onion, 864 00:46:29,557 --> 00:46:31,392 garlic, and just a touch of vinegar. 865 00:46:31,476 --> 00:46:34,854 And we're also going to have crab salad on crackers. 866 00:46:34,938 --> 00:46:36,147 Another special one, 867 00:46:36,231 --> 00:46:39,442 not specifically related to the Dutrieuille family's history, 868 00:46:39,526 --> 00:46:43,363 but it's related to the larger history of catering in Philadelphia in general. 869 00:46:44,072 --> 00:46:45,990 You have to take one of everything. 870 00:46:48,785 --> 00:46:49,828 Yeah, a little more. 871 00:46:53,540 --> 00:46:54,457 Mmm. 872 00:46:54,541 --> 00:46:56,751 -[Valerie] Omar, that's really good. -Wow. 873 00:46:57,627 --> 00:47:00,755 [Omar] Collards. It's collard greens, mustard greens, and dandelion greens. 874 00:47:00,839 --> 00:47:02,423 -[all] Oh! -[Omar] And turnip greens. 875 00:47:02,507 --> 00:47:04,467 -Here we go. -A collective "oh." 876 00:47:04,551 --> 00:47:06,511 -[diners chuckling] -Mmm. 877 00:47:07,595 --> 00:47:10,014 -Mmm. That's delicious, chef. -Wow. 878 00:47:11,474 --> 00:47:13,726 -Omar, you did it again. -[all laughing] 879 00:47:14,352 --> 00:47:18,022 You're a food person. How are you feeling being connected to this legacy? 880 00:47:18,106 --> 00:47:19,274 I mean, it's an honor. 881 00:47:19,357 --> 00:47:22,652 I want my grandkids to be able to, like, look at these menus and be like, 882 00:47:22,735 --> 00:47:24,362 "This is still being made today." 883 00:47:24,445 --> 00:47:26,114 I hold it near and dear to my heart. 884 00:47:26,197 --> 00:47:29,909 It's family, it's tradition, it's Black history. 885 00:47:29,993 --> 00:47:31,286 It's Philadelphia, which is-- 886 00:47:31,369 --> 00:47:33,329 -[Lauren] It's American history. -American history. 887 00:47:33,413 --> 00:47:37,667 And at the time that it happened, years before segregation ended, 888 00:47:37,750 --> 00:47:38,877 they were doing so much. 889 00:47:38,960 --> 00:47:42,088 I was looking at the cars they were driving. How was that possible? 890 00:47:42,171 --> 00:47:44,674 -[Lauren] I had the same thought. -You didn't see that, you know? 891 00:47:44,757 --> 00:47:46,217 -[Lauren] Yeah. -Dressed to the nines. 892 00:47:46,301 --> 00:47:49,178 It blows my mind. So it's an honor to carry on that lineage. 893 00:47:49,262 --> 00:47:51,472 [Lauren] I had the same thought when Dad sent the photos. 894 00:47:51,556 --> 00:47:54,642 Fur coat and fancy car. I was like, "Black people lived like this?" 895 00:47:54,726 --> 00:47:55,727 We absolutely did. 896 00:47:55,810 --> 00:47:58,438 Generations and generations of free Blacks 897 00:47:58,521 --> 00:48:01,107 and generations and generations of entrepreneurship. 898 00:48:01,190 --> 00:48:03,318 We created our own economies, 899 00:48:03,401 --> 00:48:09,324 and we had families like the Dutrieuilles that carried on that tradition, 900 00:48:09,407 --> 00:48:14,120 fed our communities and were examples of how we could be self-reliant, 901 00:48:14,203 --> 00:48:16,080 independent, entrepreneurs, 902 00:48:16,164 --> 00:48:18,917 and turn around a dollar within our community. 903 00:48:19,000 --> 00:48:21,252 It was really, really a strong impact. 904 00:48:24,547 --> 00:48:25,798 [Omar] For our entrée, 905 00:48:25,882 --> 00:48:28,468 we will be having pepper pot stew. 906 00:48:28,551 --> 00:48:32,472 Pepper pot stew was the most popular dish in Philadelphia 907 00:48:32,555 --> 00:48:36,768 in the 18th and 19th century, and even extended into the 20th century. 908 00:48:36,851 --> 00:48:42,690 There's even a painting of a woman selling pepper pot to vendors. 909 00:48:42,774 --> 00:48:45,568 {\an8}It was sold as a street vended item 910 00:48:45,652 --> 00:48:49,530 {\an8}by mostly free women of color up and down Market Street. 911 00:48:49,614 --> 00:48:51,824 {\an8}So I'm very excited to share that with y'all, 912 00:48:51,908 --> 00:48:54,243 and bring that dish back to prominence. 913 00:48:55,286 --> 00:48:58,289 -[Lauren] Yeah, this looks so good. -[Valerie] Omar, this is delicious. 914 00:48:58,373 --> 00:48:59,791 -[Harry] Mmm. -[Lauren] Yeah. 915 00:49:01,125 --> 00:49:02,627 [Valerie] What did you use, oxtail? 916 00:49:02,710 --> 00:49:04,879 Mmm. Oxtail, yes. 917 00:49:06,130 --> 00:49:07,548 [Lauren] It's so good! 918 00:49:07,632 --> 00:49:09,300 [Patricia] It really is. 919 00:49:09,384 --> 00:49:12,595 It has great spice, but it's not spicy, so what are we tasting? 920 00:49:12,679 --> 00:49:16,015 So, because of the connection to the West Indies, 921 00:49:16,099 --> 00:49:17,600 there's scotch bonnet in here. 922 00:49:17,684 --> 00:49:22,063 This is tomato based with the scotch bonnet, paprikas, 923 00:49:22,146 --> 00:49:24,524 garlic, onion, thyme, 924 00:49:24,607 --> 00:49:27,860 but more important than all those spices, to me, 925 00:49:27,944 --> 00:49:29,988 is time, as in, like a clock. 926 00:49:30,071 --> 00:49:32,198 You have to be patient 927 00:49:32,281 --> 00:49:35,159 and take care of every layer in this stew. 928 00:49:35,243 --> 00:49:39,080 [Stephen] I love this dish  because it's so complex. 929 00:49:39,163 --> 00:49:42,500 With the spice, with the texture of the rice and the meat. 930 00:49:42,583 --> 00:49:46,629 It's not heavy-handed, but there's so much flavor. Really beautiful dish. 931 00:49:46,713 --> 00:49:49,549 I mean, quite honestly, like, when I make this dish, 932 00:49:49,632 --> 00:49:51,217 I don't really use a recipe. 933 00:49:51,300 --> 00:49:53,886 There are recipes for pepper pot, 934 00:49:53,970 --> 00:49:57,849 um, but I really try to draw a feeling of an ancestral connection. 935 00:49:58,433 --> 00:49:59,767 I feel I'm directly connected 936 00:49:59,851 --> 00:50:02,645 to the way African Americans liberated themselves in the past, 937 00:50:02,729 --> 00:50:03,771 which is through craft. 938 00:50:03,855 --> 00:50:06,149 So, through these dishes, 939 00:50:06,232 --> 00:50:10,028 we really get to unabashedly tell our truths, 940 00:50:10,111 --> 00:50:11,571 because everyone wants to eat. 941 00:50:13,656 --> 00:50:17,201 [Stephen] I've always felt there is a power connected to food, 942 00:50:17,285 --> 00:50:19,829 a grace in gathering for a moment shared, 943 00:50:20,663 --> 00:50:24,584 and a freedom found in the exchange of emotions and ideas. 944 00:50:25,960 --> 00:50:29,630 As the abolitionist movement of the early 1800s grew, 945 00:50:29,714 --> 00:50:33,384 and the Underground Railroad brought more and more people to Philadelphia, 946 00:50:33,885 --> 00:50:38,598 a growing free Black community was looking to expand their opportunity. 947 00:50:39,557 --> 00:50:43,269 And some set their sights on a territory 948 00:50:44,187 --> 00:50:46,647 that would soon be known as Texas. 949 00:50:49,984 --> 00:50:51,986 [blues guitar music playing]