1
00:00:08,446 --> 00:00:10,448
[gentle music playing]
2
00:00:34,972 --> 00:00:36,974
[music continues]
3
00:00:51,405 --> 00:00:55,284
[man] We are on the shores
of Sullivan's Island,
4
00:00:55,367 --> 00:00:56,827
right here on the beach.
5
00:00:58,079 --> 00:01:01,332
{\an8}This would've been
the first stopping point for the enslaved
6
00:01:01,415 --> 00:01:04,126
{\an8}when they came
through the ports of Charleston.
7
00:01:05,086 --> 00:01:09,548
This was the entry point
for a lot of our ancestors.
8
00:01:09,632 --> 00:01:13,761
Upwards of 40 to 60%
of all enslaved Africans
9
00:01:13,844 --> 00:01:15,930
came through the ports of Charleston.
10
00:01:17,598 --> 00:01:21,894
It looks just like the landscape in parts
of West Africa where they came from.
11
00:01:23,479 --> 00:01:25,815
So, almost,
they thought it was a cruel joke.
12
00:01:25,898 --> 00:01:29,193
They were brought back
to where they were taken from.
13
00:01:33,072 --> 00:01:35,699
[Stephen] I imagine
that when our ancestors got here,
14
00:01:36,534 --> 00:01:38,536
they thought the voyage was over.
15
00:01:38,619 --> 00:01:40,454
Naw, man, it was just beginning.
16
00:01:47,002 --> 00:01:49,296
[theme song playing]
17
00:02:41,599 --> 00:02:43,601
[man] ♪ Got my letter ♪
18
00:02:43,684 --> 00:02:45,853
[all] ♪ Oh, yeah ♪
19
00:02:45,936 --> 00:02:47,104
[all grunt]
20
00:02:47,188 --> 00:02:49,273
[man] ♪ Got my letter ♪
21
00:02:49,356 --> 00:02:51,483
[all] ♪ Oh, yeah ♪
22
00:02:51,567 --> 00:02:52,693
[all grunt]
23
00:02:52,776 --> 00:02:54,695
[man] ♪ Got my letter ♪
24
00:02:54,778 --> 00:02:56,739
[all] ♪ Oh, yeah ♪
25
00:02:56,822 --> 00:03:01,076
♪ The people keep a-comin'
And the train done gone ♪
26
00:03:01,160 --> 00:03:02,119
[all grunt]
27
00:03:02,203 --> 00:03:04,163
♪ John was a writer ♪
28
00:03:04,246 --> 00:03:06,248
♪ Oh, yeah ♪
29
00:03:06,332 --> 00:03:07,291
[all grunt]
30
00:03:07,374 --> 00:03:09,376
♪ John was a writer ♪
31
00:03:09,460 --> 00:03:11,086
♪ Oh, yeah ♪
32
00:03:11,170 --> 00:03:12,379
[all grunt]
33
00:03:12,463 --> 00:03:14,340
[man] ♪ John was a writer ♪
34
00:03:14,423 --> 00:03:16,258
[all] ♪ Oh, yeah ♪
35
00:03:16,342 --> 00:03:21,096
♪ The people keep a-comin'
And the train done gone ♪
36
00:03:21,180 --> 00:03:22,181
[all grunt]
37
00:03:23,641 --> 00:03:26,060
[gentle music playing]
38
00:03:27,603 --> 00:03:29,730
[Stephen] Charleston, South Carolina.
39
00:03:31,357 --> 00:03:33,275
There is an ancient beauty here.
40
00:03:33,943 --> 00:03:36,737
A mythical charm to this seacoast.
41
00:03:38,781 --> 00:03:41,784
This fertile land
they call the Lowcountry.
42
00:03:43,035 --> 00:03:47,081
And yet, I've always felt
an undeniable heaviness here.
43
00:03:48,165 --> 00:03:50,417
A darkness just below the surface.
44
00:03:51,293 --> 00:03:53,295
[slow blues playing]
45
00:03:55,130 --> 00:03:58,217
This was the capital
of the nation's slave trade.
46
00:03:59,218 --> 00:04:02,388
We arrived here, shackled,
by the hundreds of thousands,
47
00:04:02,471 --> 00:04:06,684
and stood on the auction blocks
of the city's old slave mart
48
00:04:06,767 --> 00:04:08,477
to be scattered across the South.
49
00:04:10,396 --> 00:04:14,692
[indistinct haggling]
50
00:04:14,775 --> 00:04:17,027
[Stephen] But those that remained
in South Carolina
51
00:04:17,111 --> 00:04:18,570
{\an8}were enslaved on plantations
52
00:04:18,654 --> 00:04:21,240
{\an8}that generated
the initial wealth of this country…
53
00:04:22,157 --> 00:04:24,285
not with cotton, but with rice…
54
00:04:27,538 --> 00:04:32,418
at one point exporting
over 100 million pounds of it a year.
55
00:04:34,336 --> 00:04:36,672
[man] Charleston became,
as a result of the slave trade…
56
00:04:38,173 --> 00:04:41,343
per capita,
the wealthiest city in early America.
57
00:04:41,427 --> 00:04:44,763
[Stephen] I've known culinary historian
Michael Twitty a few years now,
58
00:04:45,556 --> 00:04:49,810
and I'm always impressed by his ability
to cut to the truth of our history
59
00:04:49,893 --> 00:04:51,687
by simply talking about food.
60
00:04:53,647 --> 00:04:56,942
{\an8}Africans who are here
are a combination of people
61
00:04:57,026 --> 00:04:59,194
{\an8}who've been rice growers
for thousands of years,
62
00:04:59,278 --> 00:05:02,406
and when rice becomes the invested crop,
63
00:05:02,489 --> 00:05:05,492
there are all these trees and swampland
64
00:05:06,118 --> 00:05:07,870
that have to be moved around.
65
00:05:07,953 --> 00:05:13,500
More land was moved to create
the landscape of the rice plantations
66
00:05:14,335 --> 00:05:17,379
than was moved in the making
of the pyramids in Egypt.
67
00:05:17,463 --> 00:05:18,297
[Stephen] Wow.
68
00:05:18,380 --> 00:05:21,175
The scar of these plantations
can be seen from space.
69
00:05:21,258 --> 00:05:22,092
[Stephen] Hmm.
70
00:05:22,176 --> 00:05:25,346
And it shows you
the massive amount of labor it took
71
00:05:25,929 --> 00:05:28,349
just to make
these rice plantations possible.
72
00:05:28,432 --> 00:05:30,434
[gentle music playing]
73
00:05:37,358 --> 00:05:39,234
[Michael] Despite the fact
that we were in hell,
74
00:05:39,318 --> 00:05:42,738
we were suffering,
that we were being worked to death…
75
00:05:44,365 --> 00:05:46,867
somehow, in all of that nonsense,
76
00:05:46,950 --> 00:05:49,620
we created a cuisine.
77
00:05:50,287 --> 00:05:52,289
[music continues]
78
00:05:58,796 --> 00:06:01,256
So when you eat the cooking that
79
00:06:01,340 --> 00:06:04,468
I try to pull together
from the fragments of our history,
80
00:06:05,344 --> 00:06:10,808
I want you to understand that you are
in the presence of your ancestors…
81
00:06:10,891 --> 00:06:11,725
[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
82
00:06:11,809 --> 00:06:15,771
…and that our job is
to pass those traditions on,
83
00:06:15,854 --> 00:06:17,815
so that they, like the soul, never die.
84
00:06:24,780 --> 00:06:29,868
So, we're going to prepare
one of many one-pot meals.
85
00:06:31,412 --> 00:06:33,414
[stirring, rhythmic music plays]
86
00:06:35,249 --> 00:06:37,876
-[Stephen] Got rice.
-[Michael] The number-one ingredient.
87
00:06:37,960 --> 00:06:39,878
[Stephen] And the next crucial component?
88
00:06:39,962 --> 00:06:41,171
[Michael] Okra.
89
00:06:41,255 --> 00:06:43,424
Okra's everywhere
in the Afro-Atlantic world.
90
00:06:43,507 --> 00:06:44,341
[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
91
00:06:44,425 --> 00:06:47,052
-[Michael] Everybody has okra.
-[Stephen] Quintessentially African.
92
00:06:47,136 --> 00:06:48,595
[Michael] Quintessentially African.
93
00:06:50,347 --> 00:06:52,057
-[Stephen] Got some lard.
-[sizzling]
94
00:06:52,141 --> 00:06:53,725
About two-thirds of the onions.
95
00:06:53,809 --> 00:06:55,269
[Stephen] Two-thirds.
96
00:06:58,605 --> 00:07:00,107
[Michael] All the tomato.
97
00:07:00,190 --> 00:07:02,192
[Stephen] Okay, so all the tomatoes
are going in.
98
00:07:02,276 --> 00:07:03,193
[Michael] Yes.
99
00:07:05,154 --> 00:07:06,196
[Stephen] Spoonful of salt.
100
00:07:10,617 --> 00:07:12,953
Hot pepper, the most important ingredient.
101
00:07:14,037 --> 00:07:15,539
We were the hot pepper people.
102
00:07:15,622 --> 00:07:17,541
-[Stephen] We brought it.
-[Michael] That's right.
103
00:07:17,624 --> 00:07:18,584
[Stephen] Parsley.
104
00:07:18,667 --> 00:07:21,170
[Michael] One more pinch of rosemary,
we're good.
105
00:07:21,253 --> 00:07:23,797
Gonna put our crab in next.
106
00:07:23,881 --> 00:07:26,884
-[Stephen] Okay. Now the crab's going in?
-[Michael] Yep, all of it.
107
00:07:30,053 --> 00:07:32,014
Is this also typical
108
00:07:32,097 --> 00:07:35,017
of how enslaved people would have
been preparing food like this?
109
00:07:35,100 --> 00:07:37,227
During the warmer parts
of the year, absolutely.
110
00:07:37,311 --> 00:07:39,354
-[Stephen] Right.
-[Michael] Broth time!
111
00:07:39,438 --> 00:07:40,439
[Stephen] All right.
112
00:07:45,694 --> 00:07:47,654
[Michael] And the rice, please.
113
00:07:48,238 --> 00:07:49,990
-[Stephen] All right.
-[Michael] There we go.
114
00:07:51,325 --> 00:07:52,826
Know how to taste it properly?
115
00:07:53,660 --> 00:07:54,870
How you taste it?
116
00:07:56,038 --> 00:07:57,664
Not from the spoon, how?
117
00:07:59,374 --> 00:08:00,834
Aha! How'd you know that?
118
00:08:00,918 --> 00:08:02,503
[Stephen] I don't know. How did you know?
119
00:08:02,586 --> 00:08:04,463
-'Cause my mama taught me so.
-[Stephen] Yeah.
120
00:08:04,546 --> 00:08:06,340
Because when I went to West Africa…
121
00:08:08,425 --> 00:08:09,885
-Mm-hmm.
-[Michael] Check.
122
00:08:11,637 --> 00:08:13,347
-That's how they do it.
-Mm-hmm.
123
00:08:13,972 --> 00:08:16,141
So isn't it fascinating
that both of us learned.
124
00:08:16,225 --> 00:08:17,893
-Mm-hmm.
-We saw that.
125
00:08:17,976 --> 00:08:18,977
[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
126
00:08:19,061 --> 00:08:23,273
But somebody had to do that motor function
from generation to generation
127
00:08:23,357 --> 00:08:25,817
-for us to know that's what you do.
-[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
128
00:08:25,901 --> 00:08:28,278
You got smacked
if you put the spoon in your mouth.
129
00:08:28,362 --> 00:08:30,656
[Michael] Put your mouth
on the spoon. Exactly.
130
00:08:30,739 --> 00:08:31,573
Exactly right.
131
00:08:31,657 --> 00:08:32,991
-Thank you so much.
-Okay.
132
00:08:33,075 --> 00:08:34,785
We're gonna put the top back on it.
133
00:08:34,868 --> 00:08:35,827
[Stephen] Okay.
134
00:08:36,620 --> 00:08:39,081
[Michael] There you go. Perfect.
135
00:08:39,665 --> 00:08:40,916
And we gonna let it do.
136
00:08:45,921 --> 00:08:47,130
In my work,
137
00:08:47,214 --> 00:08:49,967
it's all about what the enslaved cooked
and what they ate.
138
00:08:50,801 --> 00:08:52,844
I think that's important
for people to realize
139
00:08:52,928 --> 00:08:55,681
that their material lives
and their food lives
140
00:08:55,764 --> 00:08:58,725
had nothing to do
with what people called them,
141
00:08:59,476 --> 00:09:01,311
who they thought they were.
142
00:09:01,395 --> 00:09:03,897
-They thought they were worthy…
-[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
143
00:09:03,981 --> 00:09:05,232
…of a decent meal…
144
00:09:06,775 --> 00:09:10,654
of a meal prepared
from wife to husband, husband to wife,
145
00:09:11,363 --> 00:09:14,908
father to children,
grandmother to grandchild.
146
00:09:16,159 --> 00:09:18,328
They thought
they were worth their humanity.
147
00:09:21,832 --> 00:09:24,543
[Stephen] Brother Twitty,
seems like we're just about there, right?
148
00:09:24,626 --> 00:09:25,460
[Michael] Yeah, man.
149
00:09:25,544 --> 00:09:28,338
-[Stephen] So the pot--
-See how your first okra soup comes out…
150
00:09:28,422 --> 00:09:30,048
[Stephen] Uh-oh, that's a lot of pressure.
151
00:09:30,132 --> 00:09:32,050
…on the open fire, brother.
152
00:09:32,759 --> 00:09:34,553
[Stephen] That's a lot of pressure.
153
00:09:35,178 --> 00:09:36,305
Oh, that's a nice boil.
154
00:09:36,388 --> 00:09:39,016
-[Michael] There you go, look at that.
-[Stephen] Okay, I like that.
155
00:09:40,100 --> 00:09:42,436
It smells amazing.
156
00:09:43,103 --> 00:09:45,689
-All right, I'm gonna to try the new--
-[Michael] Real tight.
157
00:09:45,772 --> 00:09:47,441
[Stephen] Real tight. New method.
158
00:09:48,567 --> 00:09:49,443
Hmm.
159
00:09:50,777 --> 00:09:52,154
Wow, that is delicious.
160
00:09:52,738 --> 00:09:54,406
[Michael] So, what do you taste?
161
00:09:54,489 --> 00:09:59,911
Mostly what I taste is, um,
the tomato and onion interplay.
162
00:09:59,995 --> 00:10:01,997
-[Michael] Mm-hmm.
-Mmm.
163
00:10:02,080 --> 00:10:03,874
-[Michael] Makes its own gravy.
-Mm-hmm.
164
00:10:03,957 --> 00:10:07,252
[Michael] And then the okra's not
too overpowering, is it?
165
00:10:07,336 --> 00:10:09,171
-Okra's in the background.
-[Michael] Right.
166
00:10:10,297 --> 00:10:11,715
[Stephen] It's really nice.
167
00:10:13,216 --> 00:10:15,218
[soft music playing]
168
00:10:19,097 --> 00:10:21,099
-Wow.
-Mm-hmm.
169
00:10:21,850 --> 00:10:23,310
-This is…
-Told you so.
170
00:10:24,394 --> 00:10:25,896
…a spiritual experience.
171
00:10:27,856 --> 00:10:29,858
[gentle blues playing]
172
00:10:33,195 --> 00:10:35,072
[Michael] We call our food soul food.
173
00:10:36,573 --> 00:10:38,909
We are the only people…
174
00:10:40,535 --> 00:10:45,499
who named our cuisine
after something invisible
175
00:10:46,333 --> 00:10:49,044
that you could feel, like love and God.
176
00:10:49,961 --> 00:10:52,631
Something completely transcendental.
177
00:10:52,714 --> 00:10:56,468
It's about a connection
between us and our dead,
178
00:10:56,551 --> 00:10:58,720
and us and those
who are waiting to be born.
179
00:11:00,222 --> 00:11:02,224
[soft music playing]
180
00:11:08,230 --> 00:11:11,108
[Stephen] I think a lot
about how the economic legacy of the South
181
00:11:11,191 --> 00:11:13,819
is tied to the land
that Black folks cultivated.
182
00:11:15,070 --> 00:11:19,574
And for generations, our expertise
defined this region for a singular crop,
183
00:11:20,283 --> 00:11:21,451
Carolina Gold.
184
00:11:23,954 --> 00:11:27,374
[man] When you fly into Charleston,
everything you see is rice field.
185
00:11:28,041 --> 00:11:31,253
{\an8}So many rices were here
before Carolina Gold showed up,
186
00:11:32,045 --> 00:11:36,133
{\an8}but no one was good at farming rice here
until Africans showed up.
187
00:11:40,387 --> 00:11:44,015
[Stephen] Glenn Roberts is like
a godfather in the food world,
188
00:11:44,099 --> 00:11:46,059
and his company, Anson Mills,
189
00:11:46,143 --> 00:11:49,855
is largely responsible for returning
Carolina Gold to our tables
190
00:11:49,938 --> 00:11:51,982
when it had all but disappeared.
191
00:11:53,525 --> 00:11:56,069
[Stephen] So, this is
the famed Carolina Gold rice.
192
00:11:56,153 --> 00:11:57,279
[Glenn] It is.
193
00:11:57,362 --> 00:12:00,532
What's an important thing
for us to know about this rice?
194
00:12:01,783 --> 00:12:04,077
[Glenn] This is the rice
people wake up to.
195
00:12:04,161 --> 00:12:06,079
This is the rice they go home to.
196
00:12:06,163 --> 00:12:08,749
There are more early recipes
197
00:12:08,832 --> 00:12:11,543
from our antebellum colonial era
for Carolina Gold rice
198
00:12:11,626 --> 00:12:16,256
than any other strict staple
in the canon of American history.
199
00:12:16,339 --> 00:12:20,969
It's the first long-grain of the Americas
that's important to world commerce,
200
00:12:21,052 --> 00:12:25,348
and became desired in Indonesia and Asia,
201
00:12:25,432 --> 00:12:28,226
and even pierced the black curtain
of Japan, it was so famous.
202
00:12:30,979 --> 00:12:32,981
[rhythmic music playing]
203
00:12:40,071 --> 00:12:43,241
[Stephen] So, where did the rice
disappear to?
204
00:12:43,325 --> 00:12:47,788
A combination of a lot of things,
but it boils down to this.
205
00:12:47,871 --> 00:12:50,165
African expertise
to grow the rice disappeared.
206
00:12:50,248 --> 00:12:53,168
Slavery is over, they didn't have
a business model to go to,
207
00:12:53,251 --> 00:12:55,253
and it just blew up in everyone's face.
208
00:12:56,338 --> 00:12:58,757
It's staggering to realize
209
00:12:58,840 --> 00:13:04,304
that Charleston had a nearly 80% decrease
in rice production after the Civil War.
210
00:13:06,223 --> 00:13:09,518
So, how long have you been
cultivating this rice?
211
00:13:09,601 --> 00:13:10,894
[Glenn] Twenty-one years!
212
00:13:10,977 --> 00:13:14,523
The reason to get into this for me
was to pay homage to my mother.
213
00:13:15,106 --> 00:13:17,192
She missed this rice. She grew up with it.
214
00:13:17,275 --> 00:13:18,902
She pounded this rice herself.
215
00:13:18,985 --> 00:13:20,862
I realized when my mom was passing
216
00:13:20,946 --> 00:13:23,698
that I wanted to give her back
what she had in her childhood.
217
00:13:23,782 --> 00:13:25,617
That's really why I did this.
218
00:13:25,700 --> 00:13:28,203
And do you have complicated feelings
219
00:13:28,286 --> 00:13:31,122
as a white man
being involved in this trade?
220
00:13:31,206 --> 00:13:32,457
[Glenn] Totally.
221
00:13:32,541 --> 00:13:37,128
You don't wanna be, uh,
the white-privilege person,
222
00:13:37,671 --> 00:13:38,505
uh,
223
00:13:39,297 --> 00:13:42,592
monetizing something that isn't yours.
224
00:13:42,676 --> 00:13:47,764
I'd chosen what I'd call
a reparations pathway for what we do,
225
00:13:47,848 --> 00:13:50,934
which is, we don't monetize the seed.
226
00:13:51,017 --> 00:13:54,479
We give it away to anyone who asks
that's justified to get it.
227
00:13:54,563 --> 00:13:57,858
And what allows you to be able to do that
228
00:13:57,941 --> 00:14:01,987
is the fact that you are selling
to all of your accounts all over…
229
00:14:02,070 --> 00:14:03,488
-[Glenn] Worldwide.
-…the world.
230
00:14:03,572 --> 00:14:06,616
-Mm-hmm.
-And the revenues that come from that
231
00:14:06,700 --> 00:14:10,954
allow you to be able to give
the seeds away to different communities.
232
00:14:12,080 --> 00:14:15,542
So, Glenn, do you think
that this Carolina Gold rice
233
00:14:15,625 --> 00:14:18,169
is the legacy of slavery?
234
00:14:18,253 --> 00:14:20,463
It wouldn't be here without slavery.
235
00:14:21,172 --> 00:14:24,426
That's something
that we tend to gloss over a lot.
236
00:14:24,509 --> 00:14:26,428
-Mm-hmm.
-[Glenn] It's inescapable.
237
00:14:27,095 --> 00:14:30,515
Every time you turn around
in Charleston, it's rice everything.
238
00:14:30,599 --> 00:14:33,059
This represents the horrors of slavery.
239
00:14:33,143 --> 00:14:35,145
[soft, brooding music playing]
240
00:14:47,616 --> 00:14:50,619
[Stephen] Charleston has a reputation
for culinary greatness.
241
00:14:51,786 --> 00:14:53,455
But I couldn't help but notice
242
00:14:53,538 --> 00:14:56,499
that in a city that still profits
from the era of slavery,
243
00:14:57,459 --> 00:15:00,295
few of the downtown restaurants
are Black-owned,
244
00:15:00,378 --> 00:15:03,340
and history has been slow to recognize
245
00:15:03,423 --> 00:15:07,260
just where "Southern cooking"
came from in the first place.
246
00:15:09,304 --> 00:15:11,348
[BJ] As a chef, I saw, in my city,
247
00:15:11,431 --> 00:15:13,350
there was no representation
of our culture.
248
00:15:14,059 --> 00:15:17,562
But I saw our culture all through
these menus and restaurants in Charleston.
249
00:15:18,271 --> 00:15:21,358
Everybody loves the food of Charleston,
but where is that rooted in?
250
00:15:22,567 --> 00:15:23,485
The Gullah.
251
00:15:25,528 --> 00:15:28,949
[Stephen] Out of the common experience
of slavery in South Carolina
252
00:15:29,032 --> 00:15:32,285
emerged a new people known as the Gullah.
253
00:15:33,078 --> 00:15:35,497
And chef BJ Dennis is leading a movement
254
00:15:35,580 --> 00:15:39,334
to ensure their culinary contributions
do not go unrecognized.
255
00:15:40,710 --> 00:15:43,630
Private chef and caterer by day, BJ,
256
00:15:43,713 --> 00:15:47,217
or as I like to call him, Brother BJ,
257
00:15:47,300 --> 00:15:50,553
has been hosting pop-up dinners
all over the country
258
00:15:50,637 --> 00:15:53,473
that have made him
the poster child for Gullah cooking.
259
00:15:54,516 --> 00:15:58,645
And if I wanted to get to the heart
of the conversation about Gullah cuisine,
260
00:15:58,728 --> 00:16:03,274
I had to leave the city of Charleston
for the magic of the Sea Islands.
261
00:16:03,942 --> 00:16:06,528
[gently rousing music playing]
262
00:16:18,540 --> 00:16:20,208
When we talk about Gullah people,
263
00:16:20,333 --> 00:16:21,710
who are we talking about?
264
00:16:21,793 --> 00:16:26,923
We are talking about folks who lived
on the Sea Islands of the Lowcountry,
265
00:16:27,007 --> 00:16:29,300
who were free and enslaved.
266
00:16:30,719 --> 00:16:32,429
Who, through isolation, we--
267
00:16:32,512 --> 00:16:35,974
{\an8}Our ancestors were able to hold on to, um,
268
00:16:36,057 --> 00:16:38,226
{\an8}more of their Africanisms,
their African roots,
269
00:16:38,309 --> 00:16:41,980
than any other African American culture
in the country.
270
00:16:42,063 --> 00:16:45,275
What was the reason
that Gullah people were isolated?
271
00:16:45,358 --> 00:16:49,195
Truth be told, I mean, these islands,
back in the day, were not easy.
272
00:16:49,279 --> 00:16:51,531
-Mm-hmm.
-Malaria ran rampant.
273
00:16:51,614 --> 00:16:55,285
And a lot of Europeans, in the summertime,
would go up to the mountains
274
00:16:55,368 --> 00:17:00,290
or further upstate to escape the diseases.
275
00:17:01,041 --> 00:17:05,628
Um, we were more immune to malaria,
things like that, coming from West Africa.
276
00:17:05,712 --> 00:17:08,089
And so for us, that isolation was great
277
00:17:08,173 --> 00:17:11,468
because you were able
to hold on to your roots and culture.
278
00:17:11,551 --> 00:17:14,971
The isolation was great back then,
279
00:17:15,055 --> 00:17:17,849
but now, families don't want
to be on these islands.
280
00:17:17,932 --> 00:17:19,642
Things have become expensive.
281
00:17:19,726 --> 00:17:22,979
There's golf courses and resorts
all around us these days, right?
282
00:17:23,063 --> 00:17:25,065
But how do we continue to preserve?
283
00:17:25,148 --> 00:17:27,358
And to me, it's by not forgetting.
284
00:17:27,442 --> 00:17:30,236
This is not no dying, vanishing culture.
285
00:17:30,320 --> 00:17:33,656
We still here,
we're still thriving, we're still pushing.
286
00:17:34,908 --> 00:17:37,577
[gentle guitar music playing]
287
00:17:41,581 --> 00:17:43,792
[Stephen] BJ took me to St. Helena Island,
288
00:17:43,875 --> 00:17:46,503
where I met his mentors,
Bill and Sara Green,
289
00:17:46,586 --> 00:17:48,171
the owners of Gullah Grub.
290
00:17:51,549 --> 00:17:53,593
[BJ] Mr. Bill Green. His wife, Sara.
291
00:17:54,385 --> 00:17:56,262
They're the people I used to look up to.
292
00:17:56,346 --> 00:17:57,722
Mr. Green I'd watch on TV.
293
00:17:58,681 --> 00:18:00,391
He was unapologetic Gullah.
294
00:18:01,184 --> 00:18:03,269
Now we gonna get ready
for the fried chicken.
295
00:18:03,353 --> 00:18:07,232
We gonna do some pan-fried chicken
the old-fashioned way.
296
00:18:07,315 --> 00:18:09,526
The way my grandmama used to make 'em.
297
00:18:09,609 --> 00:18:11,778
That's the way we gon' make 'em today.
298
00:18:12,570 --> 00:18:14,197
[BJ] He was one of the first people I knew
299
00:18:14,280 --> 00:18:18,618
that was cooking food that resonated to me
because it was our heritage.
300
00:18:19,202 --> 00:18:20,870
[Bill] And then you add your shrimp.
301
00:18:20,954 --> 00:18:23,331
I can show you how to do it
the Gullah-style way.
302
00:18:23,414 --> 00:18:26,751
Most people just make all kind of roux
and all kinds of different things.
303
00:18:26,835 --> 00:18:30,130
I'mma show you how to make
the flavor stay in the gravy!
304
00:18:31,339 --> 00:18:35,927
[Sara] I would say Gullah cooking is
cooking, first of all, with love.
305
00:18:36,010 --> 00:18:37,679
And cooking in season.
306
00:18:38,847 --> 00:18:41,808
Everything that you eat,
you eat it according to the season.
307
00:18:43,017 --> 00:18:44,769
[Stephen] So, what are we gonna eat today?
308
00:18:44,853 --> 00:18:48,022
Oh, we gonna have some red rice,
309
00:18:48,106 --> 00:18:49,649
uh, some mullet fish,
310
00:18:49,732 --> 00:18:52,193
cornbread, and some string beans.
311
00:18:52,277 --> 00:18:54,112
I'll tell you a little story about that,
312
00:18:54,195 --> 00:18:56,239
because that's how I win my wife over.
313
00:18:56,322 --> 00:18:59,033
-[Stephen] Okay.
-Over the mullet fish. [laughs]
314
00:18:59,117 --> 00:19:02,162
Oh, yeah? What's the secret?
Tell us the secret.
315
00:19:02,245 --> 00:19:07,125
The secret about how I season the fish
and cook it with love and kindness in it,
316
00:19:07,208 --> 00:19:08,918
and when she bite into 'em, she said,
317
00:19:09,002 --> 00:19:11,171
"Oh, I ain't had no fish like this
in a long time."
318
00:19:11,254 --> 00:19:13,965
-[Stephen] Sara, is that a true story?
-It is a true story.
319
00:19:14,048 --> 00:19:18,178
I had to have two servings of it
for him to win my heart over.
320
00:19:18,261 --> 00:19:20,013
-[Bill laughs]
-Just to make sure.
321
00:19:20,096 --> 00:19:22,557
"Damn," I said, "This man can cook!"
322
00:19:22,640 --> 00:19:23,600
[all laughing]
323
00:19:27,854 --> 00:19:30,648
[Bill] All right, gentlemen.
Mullet fish!
324
00:19:30,732 --> 00:19:31,816
All right.
325
00:19:31,900 --> 00:19:33,651
Mullet fish and rice!
326
00:19:37,071 --> 00:19:38,072
Mmm.
327
00:19:39,449 --> 00:19:40,450
Delicious.
328
00:19:41,201 --> 00:19:42,035
So good.
329
00:19:42,660 --> 00:19:44,245
[Bill] Mullet fish…
330
00:19:44,329 --> 00:19:46,456
We used to have the old gentleman
331
00:19:47,207 --> 00:19:51,044
that come around with a mule and a cart,
332
00:19:51,127 --> 00:19:53,546
with a big tub
of mullet fish on the back end.
333
00:19:54,297 --> 00:19:57,842
And he used to come through
the neighborhood, singing the song,
334
00:19:57,926 --> 00:19:59,886
♪ Mullet fish, mullet fish man ♪
335
00:20:00,762 --> 00:20:03,723
♪ Mullet fish, five cent a pound
Bring your pan ♪
336
00:20:05,225 --> 00:20:06,893
♪ Mullet fish man ♪
337
00:20:06,976 --> 00:20:10,021
Next thing you know,
you sitting down on your porch,
338
00:20:10,104 --> 00:20:11,773
you could smell mullet a mile away.
339
00:20:11,856 --> 00:20:14,108
Everybody cooking mullet fish
every different way.
340
00:20:14,734 --> 00:20:16,736
I can't stop talking
about the mullet fish.
341
00:20:16,819 --> 00:20:19,364
I better try to start eating
some of this mullet fish
342
00:20:19,447 --> 00:20:21,074
because it tastes so good.
343
00:20:25,453 --> 00:20:29,290
-[Stephen] What do we have here?
-[Bill] Oh, we got some okra gumbo.
344
00:20:31,376 --> 00:20:34,212
This be in the Gullah people diet
all through the week.
345
00:20:34,295 --> 00:20:36,839
You'll always find
one or two houses that have
346
00:20:36,923 --> 00:20:39,217
what they call either
okra gumbo or okra soup.
347
00:20:42,262 --> 00:20:44,180
-The okra's so good.
-[Bill] Mm-hmm.
348
00:20:44,264 --> 00:20:47,976
This type of food, Gullah food,
you can feel 'em when you eat it.
349
00:20:48,059 --> 00:20:51,104
That's the good thing
about Gullah style cooking.
350
00:20:51,187 --> 00:20:55,275
You can feel the food going in. You know
you got something go in your body.
351
00:20:55,358 --> 00:20:58,319
One bowl will carry you a long way.
352
00:20:59,362 --> 00:21:02,365
I think even if you don't like okra
in this culture…
353
00:21:02,448 --> 00:21:05,034
-[Stephen] Mmm.
-…you still gotta know how to cook it.
354
00:21:05,118 --> 00:21:07,120
Because it's
one of the main things we eat.
355
00:21:07,203 --> 00:21:09,497
One of the main vegetables
that's in our diet.
356
00:21:10,665 --> 00:21:12,583
Who taught you how to cook gumbo?
357
00:21:13,126 --> 00:21:15,295
Oh, man, you know I grew up…
358
00:21:15,378 --> 00:21:19,674
My grandfather, he planted a little bit
of everything, but he mainly planted okra.
359
00:21:19,757 --> 00:21:22,218
My grandmother made a mean okra soup.
360
00:21:22,302 --> 00:21:25,680
But I just grew up watching it.
My mother makes it.
361
00:21:25,763 --> 00:21:28,808
So, are y'all proud of Brother BJ here?
362
00:21:28,891 --> 00:21:34,063
Yup. Seeing him trying to keep the culture
and everything going is a blessing.
363
00:21:34,147 --> 00:21:39,444
One of the greatest things for me is
for people I looked up to as a youth
364
00:21:39,527 --> 00:21:41,362
to tell me that I'm on the right track.
365
00:21:41,446 --> 00:21:46,451
It truly motivates me
to continue to do what I need to do.
366
00:21:46,534 --> 00:21:48,536
[soft music playing]
367
00:21:53,166 --> 00:21:55,168
[congregation singing]
368
00:21:58,046 --> 00:22:01,966
♪ Come by here, Lord
Come by here ♪
369
00:22:02,050 --> 00:22:05,887
♪ Lord, we need you to Kumbaya ♪
370
00:22:05,970 --> 00:22:10,975
♪ Well, Lord,
We need you to Kumbaya ♪
371
00:22:11,059 --> 00:22:14,979
♪ Lord, we need you to come by here ♪
372
00:22:15,063 --> 00:22:18,399
[woman] ♪ Oh, Lord come by here ♪
373
00:22:18,483 --> 00:22:21,110
♪ Oh, come by here, Lord ♪
374
00:22:21,194 --> 00:22:23,196
[man] ♪ Come by here ♪
375
00:22:23,279 --> 00:22:25,281
[woman] ♪ Come by here, Lord ♪
376
00:22:25,365 --> 00:22:27,450
[man] ♪ Lord, come by here ♪
377
00:22:27,533 --> 00:22:29,535
[woman] ♪ Come by here, Lord ♪
378
00:22:29,619 --> 00:22:31,162
[man] ♪ Come by here ♪
379
00:22:31,245 --> 00:22:36,125
[all] ♪ Oh, Lord, come by here ♪
380
00:22:36,209 --> 00:22:38,086
[man 1] This Gullah
just did this jump here.
381
00:22:38,169 --> 00:22:40,588
Just came in when we were brought over.
382
00:22:40,671 --> 00:22:42,090
-[man 2] Right!
-[man 1] This is it.
383
00:22:42,173 --> 00:22:43,508
Now you got Gullah Festival
384
00:22:43,591 --> 00:22:45,760
and everybody else trying
to learn about it.
385
00:22:45,843 --> 00:22:49,305
{\an8}Huh? And you had it all the time,
but you just didn't know what you had
386
00:22:49,389 --> 00:22:52,016
{\an8}because they made you feel
as though you were inferior.
387
00:22:52,100 --> 00:22:54,018
But that's the best thing
to happen to you.
388
00:22:54,102 --> 00:22:56,312
You're closer to your culture
than anybody else.
389
00:22:56,396 --> 00:22:58,439
-[man 2] That's right.
-[Smalls] I thank God for that.
390
00:22:58,523 --> 00:23:00,149
I thank God for the prayer house.
391
00:23:00,233 --> 00:23:02,693
I thank God for the teachers that we got,
392
00:23:02,777 --> 00:23:04,529
and I'm proud of where I came from.
393
00:23:05,405 --> 00:23:07,865
Come, Holy Spirit,
heavenly endowed with thy power.
394
00:23:07,949 --> 00:23:11,119
Come put a flame with sacred love
in these cold hearts of ours.
395
00:23:11,202 --> 00:23:13,121
Look how we grab our heavy load!
396
00:23:13,204 --> 00:23:14,372
From of this earth,
397
00:23:14,455 --> 00:23:17,834
our souls will neither fly
nor go to reach eternal joy.
398
00:23:17,917 --> 00:23:20,795
We pray, Heavenly Father,
for this plantation, Heavenly Father.
399
00:23:20,878 --> 00:23:23,923
These are not our beds.
We ask in thy holy name. Everybody say…
400
00:23:24,006 --> 00:23:24,882
[all] Amen.
401
00:23:24,966 --> 00:23:26,968
[gentle music playing]
402
00:23:37,645 --> 00:23:40,523
[Stephen] As I continued to immerse myself
in the Gullah culture,
403
00:23:40,606 --> 00:23:44,193
I landed on one of the most
remote of the Sea Islands.
404
00:23:48,364 --> 00:23:51,117
{\an8}Daufuskie Island
is only accessible by boat,
405
00:23:52,034 --> 00:23:57,373
and I joined Brother BJ as he prepared
a traditional whole-hog roast
406
00:23:57,457 --> 00:23:59,834
at the home
of Miss Sallie Ann Robinson.
407
00:23:59,917 --> 00:24:02,170
[upbeat music playing]
408
00:24:08,176 --> 00:24:10,303
Miss Sallie, you… We got this right here.
409
00:24:10,386 --> 00:24:13,890
Okay, I'll just give you a hole here.
410
00:24:17,810 --> 00:24:20,938
[Stephen] Miss Sallie Ann is
{\an8}a chef and cookbook author,
411
00:24:21,022 --> 00:24:23,608
and is better known as the Gullah Diva.
412
00:24:25,109 --> 00:24:26,360
[Sallie Ann] There we go.
413
00:24:27,820 --> 00:24:30,323
I'm sixth generation, born native.
414
00:24:31,699 --> 00:24:34,577
We didn't know any more
than living off the land.
415
00:24:35,453 --> 00:24:36,704
Gardening…
416
00:24:36,787 --> 00:24:41,125
And we would go to the ocean and get
bundles of shrimp and fish and crabs.
417
00:24:41,209 --> 00:24:42,043
[Stephen] Wow.
418
00:24:47,924 --> 00:24:51,385
[Sallie Ann] We went to the woods
and seeked out the wild games.
419
00:24:52,303 --> 00:24:53,721
We just had a good life.
420
00:25:00,102 --> 00:25:02,730
So, I'm gonna put these pig feet in here.
421
00:25:03,231 --> 00:25:06,234
-[Stephen] Beautiful.
-[Sallie Ann] I start and I clean 'em up.
422
00:25:06,317 --> 00:25:09,070
And they ready for some good cooking.
423
00:25:09,987 --> 00:25:12,990
And I'm going to put some peas in there
once this meat boils.
424
00:25:13,783 --> 00:25:15,660
We gonna have some peas and pig feet.
425
00:25:17,537 --> 00:25:19,872
Are you familiar with the phrase
"high on the hog"?
426
00:25:19,956 --> 00:25:20,790
Oh, yeah.
427
00:25:20,873 --> 00:25:23,584
Going back to back in the slavery days.
428
00:25:23,668 --> 00:25:25,670
Hog was a big deal.
429
00:25:25,753 --> 00:25:29,799
Folks on the plantation
would kill it for they master,
430
00:25:29,882 --> 00:25:31,968
but all they got was the parts of the hog,
431
00:25:32,051 --> 00:25:35,930
like the feet and the tail
and the intestine,
432
00:25:36,013 --> 00:25:42,311
and they'd turn these actual
meaningless-to-the-master parts
433
00:25:42,395 --> 00:25:45,147
into great meals for their family.
434
00:25:45,231 --> 00:25:49,944
And now it's kind of coming back
into fashion as a delicacy.
435
00:25:50,027 --> 00:25:52,780
People would say,
"Throw away. We throw these away."
436
00:25:52,863 --> 00:25:54,740
Well, you throw them over here,
437
00:25:54,824 --> 00:25:58,035
and then I'll make something like this,
and then they want it.
438
00:25:58,911 --> 00:26:00,288
[Stephen] So, what comes next?
439
00:26:00,371 --> 00:26:03,416
Well, we gonna let that cook
for a good 30, 40 minutes,
440
00:26:03,499 --> 00:26:06,711
and then I'll wash them peas
and throw them in there.
441
00:26:06,794 --> 00:26:07,795
[Stephen] Right in.
442
00:26:07,878 --> 00:26:10,089
[Sallie Ann] Today,
I'm doing the field peas.
443
00:26:10,172 --> 00:26:12,592
[Stephen] Do you add more seasonings
or anything like that?
444
00:26:12,675 --> 00:26:15,177
No. Right now, no.
I'm gonna wait 'til the peas get in,
445
00:26:15,261 --> 00:26:18,055
-then dice a little onion in it.
-[Stephen] Then we'll be in business.
446
00:26:18,139 --> 00:26:20,766
-[Sallie Ann] We'll be in business. Yeah.
-[Stephen] All right.
447
00:26:24,020 --> 00:26:27,732
Ahh! That aroma. [laughs]
448
00:26:28,899 --> 00:26:29,775
[BJ] Y'all ready?
449
00:26:30,526 --> 00:26:33,195
I'm gonna take it out,
and just come my way.
450
00:26:33,279 --> 00:26:34,447
One, two, three.
451
00:26:35,990 --> 00:26:36,824
All right.
452
00:26:38,117 --> 00:26:38,993
Lift.
453
00:26:40,161 --> 00:26:41,912
Lift up. [grunts]
454
00:26:45,207 --> 00:26:46,834
[Stephen] What are you putting on there?
455
00:26:46,917 --> 00:26:51,797
[BJ] This is just some red pepper,
some dried ginger, and garlic in there.
456
00:26:51,881 --> 00:26:54,550
So, what makes this tradition so special?
457
00:26:55,593 --> 00:26:57,053
Um…
458
00:26:57,136 --> 00:27:00,056
You know, honestly, this was
really just done once a year,
459
00:27:00,139 --> 00:27:03,476
typically during the winter,
typically for the whole community.
460
00:27:03,559 --> 00:27:07,188
So, all the families.
And there are probably multiple hogs,
461
00:27:07,271 --> 00:27:08,314
broken down.
462
00:27:08,856 --> 00:27:11,442
-Some would be salted for ham…
-[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
463
00:27:11,525 --> 00:27:14,278
…some would be smoked,
some would be made into sausage.
464
00:27:14,362 --> 00:27:15,529
It was a community thing.
465
00:27:15,613 --> 00:27:19,241
This is an animal that, honestly,
was not eaten every day,
466
00:27:19,325 --> 00:27:20,826
-like you see now.
-[Stephen] Yeah.
467
00:27:20,910 --> 00:27:22,203
This was to feed the community.
468
00:27:22,286 --> 00:27:25,706
Usually done in the winter,
for your survival through the winter.
469
00:27:25,790 --> 00:27:27,583
It was a annual thing.
470
00:27:29,043 --> 00:27:30,753
[Stephen] So,
who taught you how to do this?
471
00:27:30,836 --> 00:27:32,672
-[BJ chuckles]
-[Stephen] You taught yourself?
472
00:27:32,755 --> 00:27:34,173
-Watched the elders.
-Yeah?
473
00:27:34,256 --> 00:27:36,384
-See Miss Sallie Ann right there?
-[Stephen] Yeah.
474
00:27:36,467 --> 00:27:37,927
[BJ] Having conversations with elders
475
00:27:38,010 --> 00:27:40,596
and older folks like--
Miss Sallie ain't no elder, though.
476
00:27:40,680 --> 00:27:43,182
-[Sallie Ann] No.
-I ain't gonna put that on her yet.
477
00:27:43,265 --> 00:27:45,935
-Kids have to be a part of the process…
-[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
478
00:27:46,018 --> 00:27:47,228
so as they get older,
479
00:27:47,853 --> 00:27:50,356
they would know what to do
and how to feed they family.
480
00:27:51,691 --> 00:27:54,443
-[BJ] This animal gives us life.
-[Stephen] Mm-hmm.
481
00:27:54,527 --> 00:27:57,279
You pay respects
to taking a life of a animal.
482
00:27:57,363 --> 00:27:59,907
-[Stephen] Definitely.
-Make sure you don't mess it up.
483
00:27:59,990 --> 00:28:01,617
So, you have to watch this all night?
484
00:28:01,701 --> 00:28:03,953
-[Sallie Ann] Oh, yeah.
-[BJ] No sleep gang tonight, baba.
485
00:28:04,036 --> 00:28:05,621
-No sleep?
-[Sallie Ann laughing]
486
00:28:05,705 --> 00:28:07,039
No sleep gang tonight, baba.
487
00:28:07,123 --> 00:28:09,500
-[Stephen] We drinking beer or coffee?
-[exhales]
488
00:28:09,583 --> 00:28:11,585
It ain't too hot,
so beer won't dehydrate us.
489
00:28:11,669 --> 00:28:13,796
-Okay.
-If it was hot, I'd tell you water, brah.
490
00:28:13,879 --> 00:28:14,797
-Yeah.
-Yeah.
491
00:28:14,880 --> 00:28:17,633
-[Sallie Ann laughing]
-I don't want you pass out out here, man.
492
00:28:17,717 --> 00:28:19,719
[gentle music playing]
493
00:28:32,898 --> 00:28:36,652
We're waiting for these coals to cool off
'cause you don't want 'em too hot.
494
00:28:36,736 --> 00:28:37,611
Yep.
495
00:28:41,824 --> 00:28:42,658
Yep.
496
00:28:47,288 --> 00:28:49,248
-Right here.
-[man] Yes, sir.
497
00:28:51,333 --> 00:28:52,168
[BJ] Yeah.
498
00:28:55,129 --> 00:28:56,547
You're welcome to come back, baba.
499
00:28:56,630 --> 00:28:58,132
-[Stephen] Come back?
-Play with fire.
500
00:28:58,215 --> 00:29:00,426
You can come back
right 'bout two, three, four.
501
00:29:00,509 --> 00:29:03,596
Come out here day clean.
We'll be right here.
502
00:29:03,679 --> 00:29:05,681
[music continues]
503
00:29:14,857 --> 00:29:17,318
[BJ] I'm gonna start sliding charcoal in.
504
00:29:31,707 --> 00:29:33,876
I think we good.
Now it's just a waiting game.
505
00:29:33,959 --> 00:29:35,961
[soft music playing]
506
00:29:47,848 --> 00:29:49,391
[inhales and exhales deeply]
507
00:29:52,061 --> 00:29:54,980
[man] ♪ Whoa, leaves ♪
508
00:29:55,064 --> 00:29:58,234
♪ Adam in the garden picking up leaves ♪
509
00:29:58,317 --> 00:29:59,151
♪ Oh, Adam ♪
510
00:29:59,235 --> 00:30:01,403
-[women] ♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-[man] ♪ Oh, poor Adam ♪
511
00:30:01,487 --> 00:30:03,072
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Oh, brother ♪
512
00:30:03,155 --> 00:30:04,990
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Oh, Adam ♪
513
00:30:05,074 --> 00:30:06,867
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Oh, Adam ♪
514
00:30:06,951 --> 00:30:08,702
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Yeah ♪
515
00:30:08,786 --> 00:30:10,621
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Oh, Adam ♪
516
00:30:10,704 --> 00:30:12,540
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Yeah, Adam ♪
517
00:30:12,623 --> 00:30:14,333
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Yes, Adam ♪
518
00:30:14,416 --> 00:30:16,252
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Adam in the garden ♪
519
00:30:16,335 --> 00:30:18,212
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Adam in the garden ♪
520
00:30:18,295 --> 00:30:20,130
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Adam and Eve ♪
521
00:30:20,214 --> 00:30:21,924
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Adam and Eve ♪
522
00:30:22,007 --> 00:30:23,759
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ God called Adam ♪
523
00:30:23,843 --> 00:30:25,386
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Adam answered ♪
524
00:30:25,469 --> 00:30:27,596
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Oh ♪
525
00:30:27,680 --> 00:30:29,682
-♪ Picking up leaves ♪
-♪ Oh, Adam ♪
526
00:30:30,474 --> 00:30:33,561
[Stephen] It's hard not to feel
the impact of BJ's commitment,
527
00:30:34,311 --> 00:30:37,648
and his influence has spread
outside of the Gullah community.
528
00:30:41,151 --> 00:30:43,070
Out in Apex, North Carolina,
529
00:30:43,153 --> 00:30:45,573
I met his friend Gabrielle Eitienne,
530
00:30:45,656 --> 00:30:48,576
who has been exploring
her own cultural roots through food.
531
00:30:56,083 --> 00:30:59,253
[Gabrielle] I started researching
the Sea Islands,
532
00:31:00,004 --> 00:31:05,134
and then learning about the work
that BJ was doing in South Carolina.
533
00:31:06,010 --> 00:31:07,428
And I remember coming home,
534
00:31:07,511 --> 00:31:11,223
and my grandfather had
some collard seeds hanging under his shed,
535
00:31:11,307 --> 00:31:13,309
and I was like, "What is that, Pop?"
536
00:31:13,392 --> 00:31:17,229
And he was like, "That's how you get
your collard seeds. I'm drying them out."
537
00:31:18,147 --> 00:31:21,483
{\an8}"Say that again, please, sir.
What is that you say?"
538
00:31:21,567 --> 00:31:23,611
And all the research I was doing
539
00:31:23,694 --> 00:31:26,238
was aligning with what I was learning
from my grandfather.
540
00:31:26,822 --> 00:31:29,909
So, you packed up from New York
and came back home, huh?
541
00:31:29,992 --> 00:31:31,660
Yeah, essentially.
542
00:31:32,244 --> 00:31:34,914
I packed my things in a minivan
543
00:31:35,456 --> 00:31:36,957
and got up the road.
544
00:31:37,583 --> 00:31:39,919
It felt like it was ordained.
545
00:31:40,002 --> 00:31:42,588
What did your grandpa say
when you came back home?
546
00:31:43,339 --> 00:31:44,256
[laughs]
547
00:31:45,090 --> 00:31:47,259
[Gabrielle] He was like,
"I didn't think I'd see you here
548
00:31:47,343 --> 00:31:49,595
until you were
walking around with a cane."
549
00:31:49,678 --> 00:31:51,472
[laughing] Which is kinda, like…
550
00:31:52,348 --> 00:31:53,474
hilarious.
551
00:31:53,557 --> 00:31:55,559
[soothing music playing]
552
00:32:03,442 --> 00:32:05,986
[Gabrielle] A part of the way
that I'm sharing
553
00:32:06,070 --> 00:32:08,113
some of these lessons from my elders
554
00:32:08,197 --> 00:32:10,240
is to host community dinners.
555
00:32:11,325 --> 00:32:15,537
These dinners are focused
on the cultivation and preservation
556
00:32:15,621 --> 00:32:17,122
of Black food tradition.
557
00:32:23,128 --> 00:32:26,423
This food feeds
our community all around us.
558
00:32:27,591 --> 00:32:29,134
We still have grocery stores,
559
00:32:29,218 --> 00:32:32,888
but that's not the same as being able
to come over and pick from the salad patch
560
00:32:32,972 --> 00:32:35,724
or getting your collards
from someone you know.
561
00:32:36,433 --> 00:32:40,980
I've been able to rethink how we can still
continue to access, like, fresh food.
562
00:32:43,065 --> 00:32:45,526
I feel like I've just started
getting warmed up
563
00:32:45,609 --> 00:32:48,195
-to some of the possibility of this space…
-[Stephen] Of course.
564
00:32:49,238 --> 00:32:51,281
…and what it could mean for our community,
565
00:32:51,365 --> 00:32:53,534
which is a historically Black community.
566
00:32:56,370 --> 00:32:58,080
[Stephen] Gabrielle's commitment
to the land
567
00:32:58,163 --> 00:33:01,375
her family has lived on
for generations was admirable,
568
00:33:01,458 --> 00:33:04,837
but come to find out,
her whole setup was in jeopardy.
569
00:33:08,590 --> 00:33:10,676
So, what is happening with the land?
570
00:33:11,510 --> 00:33:14,888
The Department of Transportation
is building out a highway,
571
00:33:14,972 --> 00:33:19,601
and so what is now a two-lane road,
it'll be a seven-lane expressway.
572
00:33:19,685 --> 00:33:23,272
And so it's supposed
to cut through the garden,
573
00:33:23,355 --> 00:33:24,982
like right across there.
574
00:33:25,065 --> 00:33:29,528
Then on the other side, it's gonna
displace my uncle Andrew, my uncle Lynn.
575
00:33:30,362 --> 00:33:32,614
Um, all my relatives on that side
576
00:33:32,698 --> 00:33:36,744
and some further down
on our side also will have to move.
577
00:33:36,827 --> 00:33:40,622
And there's no, like, option.
They don't give you an option to stay.
578
00:33:41,165 --> 00:33:44,376
So, basically, eminent domain
is what we're talking about.
579
00:33:45,044 --> 00:33:47,212
Yeah. Exactly.
580
00:33:47,838 --> 00:33:51,717
And what is that like for your family?
581
00:33:51,800 --> 00:33:55,345
A lot of the conversations
are hard because
582
00:33:55,429 --> 00:33:58,682
people in their seventies and eighties
don't want to move
583
00:33:58,766 --> 00:34:02,644
from the homes
that they've known for a long time.
584
00:34:02,728 --> 00:34:06,106
Uncle Andrew is the one
who plants this garden with me.
585
00:34:06,190 --> 00:34:08,567
And so, like, to put him in another place,
586
00:34:08,650 --> 00:34:12,696
it just-- It repositions so much.
It changes so much.
587
00:34:13,363 --> 00:34:15,365
What's crazy is my uncle talks about
588
00:34:15,449 --> 00:34:17,951
how this land wouldn't even
bear grass at one point.
589
00:34:18,035 --> 00:34:21,121
It was really, like,
the undesired place to live.
590
00:34:21,205 --> 00:34:23,582
And that's how, you know,
Black folks got it.
591
00:34:23,665 --> 00:34:26,752
It was only sold
to Black people at one time.
592
00:34:27,336 --> 00:34:31,757
And so, now that we got it,
and we've grown it, and we've nurtured it,
593
00:34:31,840 --> 00:34:34,093
and we've given it ourselves…
594
00:34:34,843 --> 00:34:36,470
now, you know…
595
00:34:36,553 --> 00:34:38,972
-[Stephen] It's time to go.
-Now it's time to go.
596
00:34:40,224 --> 00:34:41,600
[gentle music playing]
597
00:34:55,280 --> 00:34:59,159
[Gabrielle] As we're re-imagining
this land and this space
598
00:34:59,243 --> 00:35:01,537
and what it means to us,
599
00:35:02,621 --> 00:35:07,459
we are also going to continue
to cultivate food
600
00:35:07,543 --> 00:35:12,297
and joy and laughter
and creativity on this land.
601
00:35:14,049 --> 00:35:18,387
Because continuing those things,
even with the given circumstances,
602
00:35:18,470 --> 00:35:21,181
feels like resistance to me.
603
00:35:29,148 --> 00:35:31,942
[man] Heavenly Father, we are so grateful
and thankful for Gabrielle
604
00:35:32,025 --> 00:35:33,819
and for all she does, Lord,
605
00:35:33,902 --> 00:35:37,030
to unite people in the community
around the food, around the table,
606
00:35:37,114 --> 00:35:41,493
because around the table,
that's where a lot of stories are created
607
00:35:41,577 --> 00:35:43,453
and legacies are made.
608
00:35:43,537 --> 00:35:46,748
And we are so grateful and thankful
for opening up this home,
609
00:35:46,832 --> 00:35:51,461
this farm that has
a lot of history, a lot of legacy,
610
00:35:51,545 --> 00:35:56,175
and we just ask that you bless this meal
for the nourishing of our bodies. Amen.
611
00:35:56,258 --> 00:35:57,134
-Ase.
-Amen.
612
00:35:59,970 --> 00:36:01,805
[Gabrielle] Beautiful! Thank you, guys!
613
00:36:01,889 --> 00:36:03,348
[Stephen] Thank you.
614
00:36:03,432 --> 00:36:06,894
[Gabrielle] It feels so good
to be surrounded by all this love.
615
00:36:08,395 --> 00:36:11,231
-I have some poulet rouge hens…
-[Stephen] Amazing.
616
00:36:11,315 --> 00:36:15,485
…that I cooked over the coals
and brined for two days
617
00:36:15,569 --> 00:36:20,032
with love and cinnamon
and cumin and smoked paprika,
618
00:36:20,949 --> 00:36:25,245
and then I dressed 'em
in a strawberry wine glaze shallot.
619
00:36:26,038 --> 00:36:29,041
I have some dried field peas
and white beans,
620
00:36:29,124 --> 00:36:33,754
turnip salad,
red onion and shiitake mushrooms…
621
00:36:35,964 --> 00:36:41,220
and a hickory-smoked beet cornbread.
622
00:36:42,095 --> 00:36:45,098
This beautiful cabbage,
we charred and dressed them
623
00:36:45,182 --> 00:36:48,393
in a dressing that I made
from pear preserves,
624
00:36:48,477 --> 00:36:53,315
and red wine vinegar
and white pepper and benne seed.
625
00:36:53,398 --> 00:36:55,234
And I think that's it,
626
00:36:55,317 --> 00:36:58,237
so enjoy and dig in.
627
00:36:59,446 --> 00:37:02,074
-[woman] This particular variety--
-[Gabrielle] Yeah?
628
00:37:02,157 --> 00:37:04,576
[guests chattering]
629
00:37:06,870 --> 00:37:08,914
-[Gabrielle] I don't know.
-[chatter continues]
630
00:37:08,997 --> 00:37:10,374
-So good.
-[Gabrielle] I love y'all.
631
00:37:10,457 --> 00:37:11,833
-Y'all so dramatic.
-No.
632
00:37:11,917 --> 00:37:12,876
[Gabrielle laughs]
633
00:37:12,960 --> 00:37:14,670
No, this is our restraint.
634
00:37:15,587 --> 00:37:19,841
[man] Your turnip greens
have transported me back in time.
635
00:37:21,468 --> 00:37:25,430
They are the closest, in terms of taste,
636
00:37:25,514 --> 00:37:28,517
that I've had since childhood,
637
00:37:28,600 --> 00:37:30,936
of greens cooked this way.
638
00:37:31,520 --> 00:37:35,232
They have a richness of taste that
639
00:37:35,899 --> 00:37:39,361
I didn't realize
that I was missing until just now.
640
00:37:40,946 --> 00:37:44,783
I'm really interested in,
like, you as kind of,
641
00:37:44,866 --> 00:37:49,997
a guardian of this legacy of celebration
642
00:37:50,080 --> 00:37:52,124
and convening in this house.
643
00:37:52,207 --> 00:37:55,168
-What we're doing now, you know?
-Hello. And here's to the crew.
644
00:37:55,294 --> 00:37:57,296
-Oh, my God!
-Hey.
645
00:37:57,379 --> 00:37:58,422
[man] You made it!
646
00:37:58,505 --> 00:38:00,507
-[Stephen] Wow.
-[all laughing]
647
00:38:00,590 --> 00:38:02,759
{\an8}-All right. Y'all be good.
-[Stephen] That's all we get?
648
00:38:02,843 --> 00:38:05,387
{\an8}[Gabrielle] That's all we get?
You're not gonna chat for a minute?
649
00:38:05,470 --> 00:38:06,346
Y'all be good.
650
00:38:06,430 --> 00:38:07,639
[Stephen] No.
651
00:38:07,723 --> 00:38:10,517
-[Gabrielle] You don't want no chicken?
-Y'all be good.
652
00:38:10,600 --> 00:38:11,893
Thank you, Uncle Andrew.
653
00:38:11,977 --> 00:38:13,353
-This means so much.
-All right.
654
00:38:13,437 --> 00:38:14,771
[Stephen] Thank you, Uncle Andrew.
655
00:38:14,855 --> 00:38:18,108
-This is what I'm talking about.
-This is what I'm talking about, too.
656
00:38:18,191 --> 00:38:20,819
-Well, talk about it. Really.
-This is it.
657
00:38:23,280 --> 00:38:25,240
This just feels so, like…
658
00:38:25,324 --> 00:38:29,161
To have dropped off, like,
the wine we made together, it's like…
659
00:38:32,497 --> 00:38:34,958
-[voice breaking] I'm sorry.
-No, it's okay.
660
00:38:35,042 --> 00:38:37,044
[gentle music playing]
661
00:38:39,212 --> 00:38:40,756
[sighs]
662
00:38:43,925 --> 00:38:45,385
So, the reason, um…
663
00:38:46,428 --> 00:38:48,889
communing in these spaces is important…
664
00:38:50,098 --> 00:38:52,851
um… is, like, just for this.
665
00:38:56,021 --> 00:38:57,272
My, um…
666
00:38:58,106 --> 00:39:02,861
My uncle that just dropped this off,
a lot of you already know that, um…
667
00:39:04,237 --> 00:39:07,199
he's being forcibly removed from his home.
668
00:39:07,282 --> 00:39:09,785
-Mmm.
-[Gabrielle] Through eminent domain.
669
00:39:10,494 --> 00:39:11,453
[woman] Mm.
670
00:39:12,662 --> 00:39:14,164
[man] It sounds so benign.
671
00:39:14,247 --> 00:39:16,124
-[Stephen] Right?
-[man] And it's so otherwise.
672
00:39:16,208 --> 00:39:17,042
Yeah.
673
00:39:18,752 --> 00:39:19,586
Um…
674
00:39:20,545 --> 00:39:22,464
We've been packing his stuff…
675
00:39:22,547 --> 00:39:24,674
-Mmm.
-…for, like, the past month.
676
00:39:25,425 --> 00:39:28,470
I mean, this is the last week
that he's actually in his home.
677
00:39:28,553 --> 00:39:29,429
[woman] Mmm.
678
00:39:32,808 --> 00:39:34,518
[Gabrielle] And he wouldn't say it,
679
00:39:35,018 --> 00:39:36,978
but his heart is really heavy right now,
680
00:39:37,062 --> 00:39:40,524
and he's really feeling the impact of that
and what that means for him.
681
00:39:44,027 --> 00:39:46,905
So for him to still come through
and bring me this…
682
00:39:46,988 --> 00:39:48,156
[tearfully] …is really
683
00:39:49,241 --> 00:39:50,409
something I can't…
684
00:39:53,036 --> 00:39:53,870
Um…
685
00:39:57,624 --> 00:40:01,962
Him and my grandfather have inspired
the work that I'm doing right now.
686
00:40:03,463 --> 00:40:05,048
They've been teaching me… [sighs]
687
00:40:05,132 --> 00:40:09,594
…so much about what they know
about our food tradition.
688
00:40:10,595 --> 00:40:14,057
And the way that I like to think,
like, I'm woke and I'm, like,
689
00:40:14,141 --> 00:40:19,104
I know, like, Black people and our needs
and, you know, I know our history.
690
00:40:19,187 --> 00:40:23,275
Like, coming home and being with them,
I've learned so much about our history
691
00:40:23,358 --> 00:40:25,735
through the food that we're eating
and we're growing,
692
00:40:25,819 --> 00:40:27,779
and through communion like this.
693
00:40:28,447 --> 00:40:31,283
It just shows you,
like, why this is important.
694
00:40:33,410 --> 00:40:38,707
They can never take away
what you learned underneath those pines.
695
00:40:39,249 --> 00:40:41,835
That can never be taken from you,
696
00:40:41,918 --> 00:40:44,921
and we need you to hold on to that.
697
00:40:46,047 --> 00:40:50,469
To that knowledge and to that feeling
and to that drive, you know?
698
00:40:50,552 --> 00:40:51,595
Mm-hmm.
699
00:40:51,678 --> 00:40:52,762
That's yours now.
700
00:40:56,933 --> 00:40:58,935
[soft music playing]
701
00:41:00,729 --> 00:41:02,731
[birds chirping]
702
00:41:11,490 --> 00:41:13,492
[rhythmic music playing]
703
00:41:25,545 --> 00:41:27,339
[Stephen] What are we making?
What is this?
704
00:41:27,422 --> 00:41:33,512
So, today we're just making a classic
barbecue house dish of South Carolina.
705
00:41:33,595 --> 00:41:35,263
Head hash.
706
00:41:35,347 --> 00:41:38,808
I've chopped up everything
you can imagine that comes off the head.
707
00:41:38,892 --> 00:41:39,809
-Okay.
-Right here.
708
00:41:39,893 --> 00:41:41,520
And I got a little bit left to cut.
709
00:41:45,065 --> 00:41:47,192
Can you do me a favor,
grab that barbecue sauce?
710
00:41:47,275 --> 00:41:48,485
Oh, yeah. I'll be right back.
711
00:41:48,568 --> 00:41:51,571
So we boil the head
in this broth right here.
712
00:41:51,655 --> 00:41:52,531
So…
713
00:41:53,240 --> 00:41:55,575
It's typically half head broth,
half barbecue sauce.
714
00:41:55,659 --> 00:41:56,535
[Stephen] Okay.
715
00:41:56,618 --> 00:41:58,620
All we do is let it simmer down,
like a stew.
716
00:41:58,703 --> 00:41:59,704
[Stephen] Yeah.
717
00:41:59,788 --> 00:42:00,872
Serve over rice.
718
00:42:02,832 --> 00:42:05,502
[Stephen] So, what is the history
of this dish?
719
00:42:05,585 --> 00:42:08,463
The theory is the enslaved
were always given the inferior parts,
720
00:42:08,547 --> 00:42:11,800
and they made do
with those inferior parts,
721
00:42:11,883 --> 00:42:14,177
but when we came from West Africa,
722
00:42:14,261 --> 00:42:17,305
you know, when we did hunt animals,
every part was already used,
723
00:42:17,389 --> 00:42:20,725
so they already had the knowledge
of using the offcuts.
724
00:42:23,687 --> 00:42:26,398
So, what's in this barbecue sauce?
725
00:42:26,481 --> 00:42:30,068
This is a mustard-based sauce,
with a tomato base in it.
726
00:42:30,151 --> 00:42:31,945
-Okay.
-[BJ] This goes right in here.
727
00:42:32,028 --> 00:42:34,906
Okay. You know,
in North Carolina, we like vinegar,
728
00:42:34,990 --> 00:42:37,617
-but I'm not hatin' on you.
-You be hatin' the dish?
729
00:42:37,701 --> 00:42:39,869
-[laughs] I'm trying not to.
-[Stephen] Not today.
730
00:42:40,579 --> 00:42:42,497
And you're gonna
cook this back down again?
731
00:42:42,581 --> 00:42:44,791
Yeah. We're gonna put this
back on the burner.
732
00:42:44,874 --> 00:42:45,750
Nice.
733
00:42:47,168 --> 00:42:48,128
[Gabrielle] Okay.
734
00:42:49,546 --> 00:42:52,465
So, this is just the whole--
Everything from the head?
735
00:42:52,549 --> 00:42:57,345
-Everything.
-The tongue. The eyes? Everything.
736
00:42:57,470 --> 00:42:58,805
-You name it.
-I need to know.
737
00:42:58,888 --> 00:43:00,640
You see that right there?
738
00:43:00,724 --> 00:43:03,602
-Whatever's not in there is in here.
-Yeah, whatever was there.
739
00:43:04,227 --> 00:43:06,396
[BJ] So, I throw that
barbecue sauce in it.
740
00:43:08,189 --> 00:43:09,107
Oh, yeah.
741
00:43:10,275 --> 00:43:13,361
-I'll grab a spoon. Do you need these?
-No, you can grab that.
742
00:43:13,445 --> 00:43:15,530
-Okay.
-And you can go right over here, man…
743
00:43:15,614 --> 00:43:17,824
-[Stephen] Okay.
-…and get this on the burner.
744
00:43:17,907 --> 00:43:19,701
[Stephen] How long
are you gonna cook this?
745
00:43:19,784 --> 00:43:23,496
[BJ] About 30 minutes. Let it simmer.
Let it start bubblin'.
746
00:43:25,290 --> 00:43:26,666
Sauce smells good.
747
00:43:30,128 --> 00:43:32,339
This where the party at? [laughs]
748
00:43:33,757 --> 00:43:36,009
[BJ] Now we invite the community
to come join.
749
00:43:36,092 --> 00:43:38,428
[Sallie Ann] The community. Come join us.
750
00:43:38,511 --> 00:43:40,305
Hey. Hey, sweetie, how you doin'?
751
00:43:41,014 --> 00:43:41,848
[guest] Hey, hey.
752
00:43:41,931 --> 00:43:44,643
Hey, hey. How's everybody?
753
00:43:44,726 --> 00:43:46,728
[upbeat music playing]
754
00:43:47,687 --> 00:43:48,730
[BJ] Yeah.
755
00:43:50,440 --> 00:43:51,650
All right. Beaut.
756
00:43:52,275 --> 00:43:53,860
That's gonna be… Yeah, right there.
757
00:43:57,030 --> 00:43:59,491
-Pull it out. Yeah.
-Pull the wire all the way out.
758
00:43:59,574 --> 00:44:00,742
All right, that's cool.
759
00:44:01,242 --> 00:44:03,244
[guests chattering]
760
00:44:05,705 --> 00:44:09,042
-[BJ] She just want to go up to it, and--
-[Gabrielle] She ready now.
761
00:44:09,125 --> 00:44:11,127
[music continues]
762
00:44:17,342 --> 00:44:21,262
Now I'm gonna
treat myself to some cracklin'.
763
00:44:21,346 --> 00:44:23,348
-[Sallie Ann laughs] Yes.
-[Gabrielle] Okay.
764
00:44:23,431 --> 00:44:25,642
-Mmm! Y'all hear it across the table?
-[Sallie Ann] Yeah!
765
00:44:25,725 --> 00:44:27,644
[Gabrielle] I definitely heard it.
766
00:44:27,769 --> 00:44:28,603
That's how you know.
767
00:44:28,687 --> 00:44:31,523
-[Sallie Ann] Yep, it's right.
-[Gabrielle] Save some for me.
768
00:44:31,606 --> 00:44:33,858
-My uncle Andrew made this wine.
-[Sallie Ann] All right.
769
00:44:33,942 --> 00:44:35,610
[Gabrielle] This is plum wine.
770
00:44:35,694 --> 00:44:38,321
We'll raise a toast
to our ancestors, elders…
771
00:44:38,405 --> 00:44:39,823
[Sallie Ann] Ancestors, yes.
772
00:44:39,906 --> 00:44:41,574
…past, present, future.
773
00:44:41,658 --> 00:44:42,867
[Gabrielle] Absolutely.
774
00:44:42,951 --> 00:44:44,577
-Cheers.
-[Gabrielle] Cheers.
775
00:44:45,370 --> 00:44:46,621
-Nice.
-[BJ] That's good.
776
00:44:46,705 --> 00:44:47,539
So good.
777
00:44:47,622 --> 00:44:50,083
-[Gabrielle] So good with the pig.
-[BJ] Really balanced.
778
00:44:53,211 --> 00:44:55,255
[all] ♪ Hey, oh, riding on ♪
779
00:44:55,338 --> 00:44:56,881
-[woman] ♪ Riding there ♪
-[all] ♪ Yeah ♪
780
00:44:56,965 --> 00:44:58,550
-♪ Riding there ♪
-♪ Yeah ♪
781
00:44:58,633 --> 00:45:01,761
-♪ Riding there ♪
-♪ Hey, oh, riding on ♪
782
00:45:01,845 --> 00:45:03,847
-♪ But I feel fine ♪
-♪ Yeah ♪
783
00:45:03,930 --> 00:45:05,682
-♪ I feel fine ♪
-♪ Yeah ♪
784
00:45:05,765 --> 00:45:08,935
-♪ I feel fine ♪
-♪ Hey, oh, riding, riding on ♪
785
00:45:09,018 --> 00:45:10,729
-♪ I feel fine ♪
-♪ Yeah ♪
786
00:45:10,812 --> 00:45:12,647
-♪ I feel fine ♪
-♪ Yeah ♪
787
00:45:12,731 --> 00:45:16,109
-♪ I feel fine ♪
-♪ Hey, oh, riding, riding on ♪
788
00:45:16,192 --> 00:45:18,194
-♪ Two white horses ♪
-♪ Yeah ♪
789
00:45:18,278 --> 00:45:19,904
-♪ Two white horses ♪
-♪ Yeah ♪
790
00:45:19,988 --> 00:45:23,199
-♪ Two white horses ♪
-♪ Hey, oh, riding, riding on ♪
791
00:45:23,283 --> 00:45:25,285
[song fading atmospherically]
792
00:45:32,667 --> 00:45:35,628
[somber orchestral music playing]
793
00:45:37,922 --> 00:45:41,843
[Stephen] The stories of our ancestors
don't just begin and end in the South.
794
00:45:43,052 --> 00:45:45,472
Slavery was flourishing in the North.
795
00:45:47,515 --> 00:45:50,602
New York was the backbone
of an emerging nation.
796
00:45:51,936 --> 00:45:55,732
And while our founding fathers were
penning the Constitution in Philadelphia,
797
00:45:56,900 --> 00:45:59,527
it would be their enslaved chefs
798
00:45:59,611 --> 00:46:03,740
who would establish the palate
for a new democracy.
799
00:46:03,823 --> 00:46:05,825
[somber music continues]