1 00:00:08,446 --> 00:00:10,448 [gentle music playing] 2 00:00:34,972 --> 00:00:36,974 [music continues] 3 00:00:51,405 --> 00:00:55,284 [man] We are on the shores  of Sullivan's Island, 4 00:00:55,367 --> 00:00:56,827 right here on the beach. 5 00:00:58,079 --> 00:01:01,332 {\an8}This would've been the first stopping point for the enslaved 6 00:01:01,415 --> 00:01:04,126 {\an8}when they came through the ports of Charleston. 7 00:01:05,086 --> 00:01:09,548 This was the entry point for a lot of our ancestors. 8 00:01:09,632 --> 00:01:13,761 Upwards of 40 to 60% of all enslaved Africans 9 00:01:13,844 --> 00:01:15,930 came through the ports of Charleston. 10 00:01:17,598 --> 00:01:21,894 It looks just like the landscape in parts of West Africa where they came from. 11 00:01:23,479 --> 00:01:25,815 So, almost, they thought it was a cruel joke. 12 00:01:25,898 --> 00:01:29,193 They were brought back to where they were taken from. 13 00:01:33,072 --> 00:01:35,699 [Stephen] I imagine that when our ancestors got here, 14 00:01:36,534 --> 00:01:38,536 they thought the voyage was over. 15 00:01:38,619 --> 00:01:40,454 Naw, man, it was just beginning. 16 00:01:47,002 --> 00:01:49,296 [theme song playing] 17 00:02:41,599 --> 00:02:43,601 [man] ♪ Got my letter ♪ 18 00:02:43,684 --> 00:02:45,853 [all] ♪ Oh, yeah ♪ 19 00:02:45,936 --> 00:02:47,104 [all grunt] 20 00:02:47,188 --> 00:02:49,273 [man] ♪ Got my letter ♪ 21 00:02:49,356 --> 00:02:51,483 [all] ♪ Oh, yeah ♪ 22 00:02:51,567 --> 00:02:52,693 [all grunt] 23 00:02:52,776 --> 00:02:54,695 [man] ♪ Got my letter ♪ 24 00:02:54,778 --> 00:02:56,739 [all] ♪ Oh, yeah ♪ 25 00:02:56,822 --> 00:03:01,076 ♪ The people keep a-comin' And the train done gone ♪ 26 00:03:01,160 --> 00:03:02,119 [all grunt] 27 00:03:02,203 --> 00:03:04,163 ♪ John was a writer ♪ 28 00:03:04,246 --> 00:03:06,248 ♪ Oh, yeah ♪ 29 00:03:06,332 --> 00:03:07,291 [all grunt] 30 00:03:07,374 --> 00:03:09,376 ♪ John was a writer ♪ 31 00:03:09,460 --> 00:03:11,086 ♪ Oh, yeah ♪ 32 00:03:11,170 --> 00:03:12,379 [all grunt] 33 00:03:12,463 --> 00:03:14,340 [man] ♪ John was a writer ♪ 34 00:03:14,423 --> 00:03:16,258 [all] ♪ Oh, yeah ♪ 35 00:03:16,342 --> 00:03:21,096 ♪ The people keep a-comin' And the train done gone ♪ 36 00:03:21,180 --> 00:03:22,181 [all grunt] 37 00:03:23,641 --> 00:03:26,060 [gentle music playing] 38 00:03:27,603 --> 00:03:29,730 [Stephen] Charleston, South Carolina. 39 00:03:31,357 --> 00:03:33,275 There is an ancient beauty here. 40 00:03:33,943 --> 00:03:36,737 A mythical charm to this seacoast. 41 00:03:38,781 --> 00:03:41,784 This fertile land they call the Lowcountry. 42 00:03:43,035 --> 00:03:47,081 And yet, I've always felt an undeniable heaviness here. 43 00:03:48,165 --> 00:03:50,417 A darkness just below the surface. 44 00:03:51,293 --> 00:03:53,295 [slow blues playing] 45 00:03:55,130 --> 00:03:58,217 This was the capital of the nation's slave trade. 46 00:03:59,218 --> 00:04:02,388 We arrived here, shackled, by the hundreds of thousands, 47 00:04:02,471 --> 00:04:06,684 and stood on the auction blocks of the city's old slave mart 48 00:04:06,767 --> 00:04:08,477 to be scattered across the South. 49 00:04:10,396 --> 00:04:14,692 [indistinct haggling] 50 00:04:14,775 --> 00:04:17,027 [Stephen] But those that remained  in South Carolina 51 00:04:17,111 --> 00:04:18,570 {\an8}were enslaved on plantations 52 00:04:18,654 --> 00:04:21,240 {\an8}that generated the initial wealth of this country… 53 00:04:22,157 --> 00:04:24,285 not with cotton, but with rice… 54 00:04:27,538 --> 00:04:32,418 at one point exporting over 100 million pounds of it a year. 55 00:04:34,336 --> 00:04:36,672 [man] Charleston became, as a result of the slave trade… 56 00:04:38,173 --> 00:04:41,343 per capita, the wealthiest city in early America. 57 00:04:41,427 --> 00:04:44,763 [Stephen] I've known culinary historian Michael Twitty a few years now, 58 00:04:45,556 --> 00:04:49,810 and I'm always impressed by his ability to cut to the truth of our history 59 00:04:49,893 --> 00:04:51,687 by simply talking about food. 60 00:04:53,647 --> 00:04:56,942 {\an8}Africans who are here are a combination of people 61 00:04:57,026 --> 00:04:59,194 {\an8}who've been rice growers for thousands of years, 62 00:04:59,278 --> 00:05:02,406 and when rice becomes the invested crop, 63 00:05:02,489 --> 00:05:05,492 there are all these trees and swampland 64 00:05:06,118 --> 00:05:07,870 that have to be moved around. 65 00:05:07,953 --> 00:05:13,500 More land was moved to create the landscape of the rice plantations 66 00:05:14,335 --> 00:05:17,379 than was moved in the making of the pyramids in Egypt. 67 00:05:17,463 --> 00:05:18,297 [Stephen] Wow. 68 00:05:18,380 --> 00:05:21,175 The scar of these plantations can be seen from space. 69 00:05:21,258 --> 00:05:22,092 [Stephen] Hmm. 70 00:05:22,176 --> 00:05:25,346 And it shows you the massive amount of labor it took 71 00:05:25,929 --> 00:05:28,349 just to make these rice plantations possible. 72 00:05:28,432 --> 00:05:30,434 [gentle music playing] 73 00:05:37,358 --> 00:05:39,234 [Michael] Despite the fact  that we were in hell, 74 00:05:39,318 --> 00:05:42,738 we were suffering, that we were being worked to death… 75 00:05:44,365 --> 00:05:46,867 somehow, in all of that nonsense, 76 00:05:46,950 --> 00:05:49,620 we created a cuisine. 77 00:05:50,287 --> 00:05:52,289 [music continues] 78 00:05:58,796 --> 00:06:01,256 So when you eat the cooking that 79 00:06:01,340 --> 00:06:04,468 I try to pull together from the fragments of our history, 80 00:06:05,344 --> 00:06:10,808 I want you to understand that you are in the presence of your ancestors… 81 00:06:10,891 --> 00:06:11,725 [Stephen] Mm-hmm. 82 00:06:11,809 --> 00:06:15,771 …and that our job is to pass those traditions on, 83 00:06:15,854 --> 00:06:17,815 so that they, like the soul, never die. 84 00:06:24,780 --> 00:06:29,868 So, we're going to prepare one of many one-pot meals. 85 00:06:31,412 --> 00:06:33,414 [stirring, rhythmic music plays] 86 00:06:35,249 --> 00:06:37,876 -[Stephen] Got rice. -[Michael] The number-one ingredient. 87 00:06:37,960 --> 00:06:39,878 [Stephen] And the next crucial component? 88 00:06:39,962 --> 00:06:41,171 [Michael] Okra. 89 00:06:41,255 --> 00:06:43,424 Okra's everywhere in the Afro-Atlantic world. 90 00:06:43,507 --> 00:06:44,341 [Stephen] Mm-hmm. 91 00:06:44,425 --> 00:06:47,052 -[Michael] Everybody has okra. -[Stephen] Quintessentially African. 92 00:06:47,136 --> 00:06:48,595 [Michael] Quintessentially African. 93 00:06:50,347 --> 00:06:52,057 -[Stephen] Got some lard. -[sizzling] 94 00:06:52,141 --> 00:06:53,725 About two-thirds of the onions. 95 00:06:53,809 --> 00:06:55,269 [Stephen] Two-thirds. 96 00:06:58,605 --> 00:07:00,107 [Michael] All the tomato. 97 00:07:00,190 --> 00:07:02,192 [Stephen] Okay, so all the tomatoes  are going in. 98 00:07:02,276 --> 00:07:03,193 [Michael] Yes. 99 00:07:05,154 --> 00:07:06,196 [Stephen] Spoonful of salt. 100 00:07:10,617 --> 00:07:12,953 Hot pepper, the most important ingredient. 101 00:07:14,037 --> 00:07:15,539 We were the hot pepper people. 102 00:07:15,622 --> 00:07:17,541 -[Stephen] We brought it. -[Michael] That's right. 103 00:07:17,624 --> 00:07:18,584 [Stephen] Parsley. 104 00:07:18,667 --> 00:07:21,170 [Michael] One more pinch of rosemary,  we're good. 105 00:07:21,253 --> 00:07:23,797 Gonna put our crab in next. 106 00:07:23,881 --> 00:07:26,884 -[Stephen] Okay. Now the crab's going in? -[Michael] Yep, all of it. 107 00:07:30,053 --> 00:07:32,014 Is this also typical 108 00:07:32,097 --> 00:07:35,017 of how enslaved people would have been preparing food like this? 109 00:07:35,100 --> 00:07:37,227 During the warmer parts of the year, absolutely. 110 00:07:37,311 --> 00:07:39,354 -[Stephen] Right. -[Michael] Broth time! 111 00:07:39,438 --> 00:07:40,439 [Stephen] All right. 112 00:07:45,694 --> 00:07:47,654 [Michael] And the rice, please. 113 00:07:48,238 --> 00:07:49,990 -[Stephen] All right. -[Michael] There we go. 114 00:07:51,325 --> 00:07:52,826 Know how to taste it properly? 115 00:07:53,660 --> 00:07:54,870 How you taste it? 116 00:07:56,038 --> 00:07:57,664 Not from the spoon, how? 117 00:07:59,374 --> 00:08:00,834 Aha! How'd you know that? 118 00:08:00,918 --> 00:08:02,503 [Stephen] I don't know. How did you know? 119 00:08:02,586 --> 00:08:04,463 -'Cause my mama taught me so. -[Stephen] Yeah. 120 00:08:04,546 --> 00:08:06,340 Because when I went to West Africa… 121 00:08:08,425 --> 00:08:09,885 -Mm-hmm. -[Michael] Check. 122 00:08:11,637 --> 00:08:13,347 -That's how they do it. -Mm-hmm. 123 00:08:13,972 --> 00:08:16,141 So isn't it fascinating that both of us learned. 124 00:08:16,225 --> 00:08:17,893 -Mm-hmm. -We saw that. 125 00:08:17,976 --> 00:08:18,977 [Stephen] Mm-hmm. 126 00:08:19,061 --> 00:08:23,273 But somebody had to do that motor function from generation to generation 127 00:08:23,357 --> 00:08:25,817 -for us to know that's what you do. -[Stephen] Mm-hmm. 128 00:08:25,901 --> 00:08:28,278 You got smacked if you put the spoon in your mouth. 129 00:08:28,362 --> 00:08:30,656 [Michael] Put your mouth on the spoon. Exactly. 130 00:08:30,739 --> 00:08:31,573 Exactly right. 131 00:08:31,657 --> 00:08:32,991 -Thank you so much. -Okay. 132 00:08:33,075 --> 00:08:34,785 We're gonna put the top back on it. 133 00:08:34,868 --> 00:08:35,827 [Stephen] Okay. 134 00:08:36,620 --> 00:08:39,081 [Michael] There you go. Perfect. 135 00:08:39,665 --> 00:08:40,916 And we gonna let it do. 136 00:08:45,921 --> 00:08:47,130 In my work, 137 00:08:47,214 --> 00:08:49,967 it's all about what the enslaved cooked and what they ate. 138 00:08:50,801 --> 00:08:52,844 I think that's important for people to realize 139 00:08:52,928 --> 00:08:55,681 that their material lives and their food lives 140 00:08:55,764 --> 00:08:58,725 had nothing to do with what people called them, 141 00:08:59,476 --> 00:09:01,311 who they thought they were. 142 00:09:01,395 --> 00:09:03,897 -They thought they were worthy… -[Stephen] Mm-hmm. 143 00:09:03,981 --> 00:09:05,232 …of a decent meal… 144 00:09:06,775 --> 00:09:10,654 of a meal prepared from wife to husband, husband to wife, 145 00:09:11,363 --> 00:09:14,908 father to children, grandmother to grandchild. 146 00:09:16,159 --> 00:09:18,328 They thought they were worth their humanity. 147 00:09:21,832 --> 00:09:24,543 [Stephen] Brother Twitty, seems like we're just about there, right? 148 00:09:24,626 --> 00:09:25,460 [Michael] Yeah, man. 149 00:09:25,544 --> 00:09:28,338 -[Stephen] So the pot-- -See how your first okra soup comes out… 150 00:09:28,422 --> 00:09:30,048 [Stephen] Uh-oh, that's a lot of pressure. 151 00:09:30,132 --> 00:09:32,050 …on the open fire, brother. 152 00:09:32,759 --> 00:09:34,553 [Stephen] That's a lot of pressure. 153 00:09:35,178 --> 00:09:36,305 Oh, that's a nice boil. 154 00:09:36,388 --> 00:09:39,016 -[Michael] There you go, look at that. -[Stephen] Okay, I like that. 155 00:09:40,100 --> 00:09:42,436 It smells amazing. 156 00:09:43,103 --> 00:09:45,689 -All right, I'm gonna to try the new-- -[Michael] Real tight. 157 00:09:45,772 --> 00:09:47,441 [Stephen] Real tight. New method. 158 00:09:48,567 --> 00:09:49,443 Hmm. 159 00:09:50,777 --> 00:09:52,154 Wow, that is delicious. 160 00:09:52,738 --> 00:09:54,406 [Michael] So, what do you taste? 161 00:09:54,489 --> 00:09:59,911 Mostly what I taste is, um, the tomato and onion interplay. 162 00:09:59,995 --> 00:10:01,997 -[Michael] Mm-hmm. -Mmm. 163 00:10:02,080 --> 00:10:03,874 -[Michael] Makes its own gravy. -Mm-hmm. 164 00:10:03,957 --> 00:10:07,252 [Michael] And then the okra's not too overpowering, is it? 165 00:10:07,336 --> 00:10:09,171 -Okra's in the background. -[Michael] Right. 166 00:10:10,297 --> 00:10:11,715 [Stephen] It's really nice. 167 00:10:13,216 --> 00:10:15,218 [soft music playing] 168 00:10:19,097 --> 00:10:21,099 -Wow. -Mm-hmm. 169 00:10:21,850 --> 00:10:23,310 -This is… -Told you so. 170 00:10:24,394 --> 00:10:25,896 …a spiritual experience. 171 00:10:27,856 --> 00:10:29,858 [gentle blues playing] 172 00:10:33,195 --> 00:10:35,072 [Michael] We call our food soul food. 173 00:10:36,573 --> 00:10:38,909 We are the only people… 174 00:10:40,535 --> 00:10:45,499 who named our cuisine after something invisible 175 00:10:46,333 --> 00:10:49,044 that you could feel, like love and God. 176 00:10:49,961 --> 00:10:52,631 Something completely transcendental. 177 00:10:52,714 --> 00:10:56,468 It's about a connection between us and our dead, 178 00:10:56,551 --> 00:10:58,720 and us and those who are waiting to be born. 179 00:11:00,222 --> 00:11:02,224 [soft music playing] 180 00:11:08,230 --> 00:11:11,108 [Stephen] I think a lot about how the economic legacy of the South 181 00:11:11,191 --> 00:11:13,819 is tied to the land that Black folks cultivated. 182 00:11:15,070 --> 00:11:19,574 And for generations, our expertise defined this region for a singular crop, 183 00:11:20,283 --> 00:11:21,451 Carolina Gold. 184 00:11:23,954 --> 00:11:27,374 [man] When you fly into Charleston, everything you see is rice field. 185 00:11:28,041 --> 00:11:31,253 {\an8}So many rices were here before Carolina Gold showed up, 186 00:11:32,045 --> 00:11:36,133 {\an8}but no one was good at farming rice here until Africans showed up. 187 00:11:40,387 --> 00:11:44,015 [Stephen] Glenn Roberts is like a godfather in the food world, 188 00:11:44,099 --> 00:11:46,059 and his company, Anson Mills, 189 00:11:46,143 --> 00:11:49,855 is largely responsible for returning Carolina Gold to our tables 190 00:11:49,938 --> 00:11:51,982 when it had all but disappeared. 191 00:11:53,525 --> 00:11:56,069 [Stephen] So, this is  the famed Carolina Gold rice. 192 00:11:56,153 --> 00:11:57,279 [Glenn] It is. 193 00:11:57,362 --> 00:12:00,532 What's an important thing for us to know about this rice? 194 00:12:01,783 --> 00:12:04,077 [Glenn] This is the rice  people wake up to. 195 00:12:04,161 --> 00:12:06,079 This is the rice they go home to. 196 00:12:06,163 --> 00:12:08,749 There are more early recipes 197 00:12:08,832 --> 00:12:11,543 from our antebellum colonial era for Carolina Gold rice 198 00:12:11,626 --> 00:12:16,256 than any other strict staple in the canon of American history. 199 00:12:16,339 --> 00:12:20,969 It's the first long-grain of the Americas that's important to world commerce, 200 00:12:21,052 --> 00:12:25,348 and became desired in Indonesia and Asia, 201 00:12:25,432 --> 00:12:28,226 and even pierced the black curtain of Japan, it was so famous. 202 00:12:30,979 --> 00:12:32,981 [rhythmic music playing] 203 00:12:40,071 --> 00:12:43,241 [Stephen] So, where did the rice  disappear to? 204 00:12:43,325 --> 00:12:47,788 A combination of a lot of things, but it boils down to this. 205 00:12:47,871 --> 00:12:50,165 African expertise to grow the rice disappeared. 206 00:12:50,248 --> 00:12:53,168 Slavery is over, they didn't have a business model to go to, 207 00:12:53,251 --> 00:12:55,253 and it just blew up in everyone's face. 208 00:12:56,338 --> 00:12:58,757 It's staggering to realize 209 00:12:58,840 --> 00:13:04,304 that Charleston had a nearly 80% decrease in rice production after the Civil War. 210 00:13:06,223 --> 00:13:09,518 So, how long have you been cultivating this rice? 211 00:13:09,601 --> 00:13:10,894 [Glenn] Twenty-one years! 212 00:13:10,977 --> 00:13:14,523 The reason to get into this for me was to pay homage to my mother. 213 00:13:15,106 --> 00:13:17,192 She missed this rice. She grew up with it. 214 00:13:17,275 --> 00:13:18,902 She pounded this rice herself. 215 00:13:18,985 --> 00:13:20,862 I realized when my mom was passing 216 00:13:20,946 --> 00:13:23,698 that I wanted to give her back what she had in her childhood. 217 00:13:23,782 --> 00:13:25,617 That's really why I did this. 218 00:13:25,700 --> 00:13:28,203 And do you have complicated feelings 219 00:13:28,286 --> 00:13:31,122 as a white man being involved in this trade? 220 00:13:31,206 --> 00:13:32,457 [Glenn] Totally. 221 00:13:32,541 --> 00:13:37,128 You don't wanna be, uh, the white-privilege person, 222 00:13:37,671 --> 00:13:38,505 uh, 223 00:13:39,297 --> 00:13:42,592 monetizing something that isn't yours. 224 00:13:42,676 --> 00:13:47,764 I'd chosen what I'd call a reparations pathway for what we do, 225 00:13:47,848 --> 00:13:50,934 which is, we don't monetize the seed. 226 00:13:51,017 --> 00:13:54,479 We give it away to anyone who asks that's justified to get it. 227 00:13:54,563 --> 00:13:57,858 And what allows you to be able to do that 228 00:13:57,941 --> 00:14:01,987 is the fact that you are selling to all of your accounts all over… 229 00:14:02,070 --> 00:14:03,488 -[Glenn] Worldwide. -…the world. 230 00:14:03,572 --> 00:14:06,616 -Mm-hmm. -And the revenues that come from that 231 00:14:06,700 --> 00:14:10,954 allow you to be able to give the seeds away to different communities. 232 00:14:12,080 --> 00:14:15,542 So, Glenn, do you think that this Carolina Gold rice 233 00:14:15,625 --> 00:14:18,169 is the legacy of slavery? 234 00:14:18,253 --> 00:14:20,463 It wouldn't be here without slavery. 235 00:14:21,172 --> 00:14:24,426 That's something that we tend to gloss over a lot. 236 00:14:24,509 --> 00:14:26,428 -Mm-hmm. -[Glenn] It's inescapable. 237 00:14:27,095 --> 00:14:30,515 Every time you turn around in Charleston, it's rice everything. 238 00:14:30,599 --> 00:14:33,059 This represents the horrors of slavery. 239 00:14:33,143 --> 00:14:35,145 [soft, brooding music playing] 240 00:14:47,616 --> 00:14:50,619 [Stephen] Charleston has a reputation for culinary greatness. 241 00:14:51,786 --> 00:14:53,455 But I couldn't help but notice 242 00:14:53,538 --> 00:14:56,499 that in a city that still profits from the era of slavery, 243 00:14:57,459 --> 00:15:00,295 few of the downtown restaurants are Black-owned, 244 00:15:00,378 --> 00:15:03,340 and history has been slow to recognize 245 00:15:03,423 --> 00:15:07,260 just where "Southern cooking" came from in the first place. 246 00:15:09,304 --> 00:15:11,348 [BJ] As a chef, I saw, in my city, 247 00:15:11,431 --> 00:15:13,350 there was no representation of our culture. 248 00:15:14,059 --> 00:15:17,562 But I saw our culture all through these menus and restaurants in Charleston. 249 00:15:18,271 --> 00:15:21,358 Everybody loves the food of Charleston, but where is that rooted in? 250 00:15:22,567 --> 00:15:23,485 The Gullah. 251 00:15:25,528 --> 00:15:28,949 [Stephen] Out of the common experience of slavery in South Carolina 252 00:15:29,032 --> 00:15:32,285 emerged a new people known as the Gullah. 253 00:15:33,078 --> 00:15:35,497 And chef BJ Dennis is leading a movement 254 00:15:35,580 --> 00:15:39,334 to ensure their culinary contributions do not go unrecognized. 255 00:15:40,710 --> 00:15:43,630 Private chef and caterer by day, BJ, 256 00:15:43,713 --> 00:15:47,217 or as I like to call him, Brother BJ, 257 00:15:47,300 --> 00:15:50,553 has been hosting pop-up dinners all over the country 258 00:15:50,637 --> 00:15:53,473 that have made him the poster child for Gullah cooking. 259 00:15:54,516 --> 00:15:58,645 And if I wanted to get to the heart of the conversation about Gullah cuisine, 260 00:15:58,728 --> 00:16:03,274 I had to leave the city of Charleston for the magic of the Sea Islands. 261 00:16:03,942 --> 00:16:06,528 [gently rousing music playing] 262 00:16:18,540 --> 00:16:20,208 When we talk about Gullah people, 263 00:16:20,333 --> 00:16:21,710 who are we talking about? 264 00:16:21,793 --> 00:16:26,923 We are talking about folks who lived on the Sea Islands of the Lowcountry, 265 00:16:27,007 --> 00:16:29,300 who were free and enslaved. 266 00:16:30,719 --> 00:16:32,429 Who, through isolation, we-- 267 00:16:32,512 --> 00:16:35,974 {\an8}Our ancestors were able to hold on to, um, 268 00:16:36,057 --> 00:16:38,226 {\an8}more of their Africanisms, their African roots, 269 00:16:38,309 --> 00:16:41,980 than any other African American culture in the country. 270 00:16:42,063 --> 00:16:45,275 What was the reason that Gullah people were isolated? 271 00:16:45,358 --> 00:16:49,195 Truth be told, I mean, these islands, back in the day, were not easy. 272 00:16:49,279 --> 00:16:51,531 -Mm-hmm. -Malaria ran rampant. 273 00:16:51,614 --> 00:16:55,285 And a lot of Europeans, in the summertime, would go up to the mountains 274 00:16:55,368 --> 00:17:00,290 or further upstate to escape the diseases. 275 00:17:01,041 --> 00:17:05,628 Um, we were more immune to malaria, things like that, coming from West Africa. 276 00:17:05,712 --> 00:17:08,089 And so for us, that isolation was great 277 00:17:08,173 --> 00:17:11,468 because you were able to hold on to your roots and culture. 278 00:17:11,551 --> 00:17:14,971 The isolation was great back then, 279 00:17:15,055 --> 00:17:17,849 but now, families don't want to be on these islands. 280 00:17:17,932 --> 00:17:19,642 Things have become expensive. 281 00:17:19,726 --> 00:17:22,979 There's golf courses and resorts all around us these days, right? 282 00:17:23,063 --> 00:17:25,065 But how do we continue to preserve? 283 00:17:25,148 --> 00:17:27,358 And to me, it's by not forgetting. 284 00:17:27,442 --> 00:17:30,236 This is not no dying, vanishing culture. 285 00:17:30,320 --> 00:17:33,656 We still here, we're still thriving, we're still pushing. 286 00:17:34,908 --> 00:17:37,577 [gentle guitar music playing] 287 00:17:41,581 --> 00:17:43,792 [Stephen] BJ took me to St. Helena Island, 288 00:17:43,875 --> 00:17:46,503 where I met his mentors, Bill and Sara Green, 289 00:17:46,586 --> 00:17:48,171 the owners of Gullah Grub. 290 00:17:51,549 --> 00:17:53,593 [BJ] Mr. Bill Green. His wife, Sara. 291 00:17:54,385 --> 00:17:56,262 They're the people I used to look up to. 292 00:17:56,346 --> 00:17:57,722 Mr. Green I'd watch on TV. 293 00:17:58,681 --> 00:18:00,391 He was unapologetic Gullah. 294 00:18:01,184 --> 00:18:03,269 Now we gonna get ready for the fried chicken. 295 00:18:03,353 --> 00:18:07,232 We gonna do some pan-fried chicken the old-fashioned way. 296 00:18:07,315 --> 00:18:09,526 The way my grandmama used to make 'em. 297 00:18:09,609 --> 00:18:11,778 That's the way we gon' make 'em today. 298 00:18:12,570 --> 00:18:14,197 [BJ] He was one of the first people I knew 299 00:18:14,280 --> 00:18:18,618 that was cooking food that resonated to me because it was our heritage. 300 00:18:19,202 --> 00:18:20,870 [Bill] And then you add your shrimp. 301 00:18:20,954 --> 00:18:23,331 I can show you how to do it the Gullah-style way. 302 00:18:23,414 --> 00:18:26,751 Most people just make all kind of roux and all kinds of different things. 303 00:18:26,835 --> 00:18:30,130 I'mma show you how to make the flavor stay in the gravy! 304 00:18:31,339 --> 00:18:35,927 [Sara] I would say Gullah cooking is cooking, first of all, with love. 305 00:18:36,010 --> 00:18:37,679 And cooking in season. 306 00:18:38,847 --> 00:18:41,808 Everything that you eat, you eat it according to the season. 307 00:18:43,017 --> 00:18:44,769 [Stephen] So, what are we gonna eat today? 308 00:18:44,853 --> 00:18:48,022 Oh, we gonna have some red rice, 309 00:18:48,106 --> 00:18:49,649 uh, some mullet fish, 310 00:18:49,732 --> 00:18:52,193 cornbread, and some string beans. 311 00:18:52,277 --> 00:18:54,112 I'll tell you a little story about that, 312 00:18:54,195 --> 00:18:56,239 because that's how I win my wife over. 313 00:18:56,322 --> 00:18:59,033 -[Stephen] Okay. -Over the mullet fish. [laughs] 314 00:18:59,117 --> 00:19:02,162 Oh, yeah? What's the secret? Tell us the secret. 315 00:19:02,245 --> 00:19:07,125 The secret about how I season the fish and cook it with love and kindness in it, 316 00:19:07,208 --> 00:19:08,918 and when she bite into 'em, she said, 317 00:19:09,002 --> 00:19:11,171 "Oh, I ain't had no fish like this in a long time." 318 00:19:11,254 --> 00:19:13,965 -[Stephen] Sara, is that a true story? -It is a true story. 319 00:19:14,048 --> 00:19:18,178 I had to have two servings of it for him to win my heart over. 320 00:19:18,261 --> 00:19:20,013 -[Bill laughs] -Just to make sure. 321 00:19:20,096 --> 00:19:22,557 "Damn," I said, "This man can cook!" 322 00:19:22,640 --> 00:19:23,600 [all laughing] 323 00:19:27,854 --> 00:19:30,648 [Bill] All right, gentlemen. Mullet fish! 324 00:19:30,732 --> 00:19:31,816 All right. 325 00:19:31,900 --> 00:19:33,651 Mullet fish and rice! 326 00:19:37,071 --> 00:19:38,072 Mmm. 327 00:19:39,449 --> 00:19:40,450 Delicious. 328 00:19:41,201 --> 00:19:42,035 So good. 329 00:19:42,660 --> 00:19:44,245 [Bill] Mullet fish… 330 00:19:44,329 --> 00:19:46,456 We used to have the old gentleman 331 00:19:47,207 --> 00:19:51,044 that come around with a mule and a cart, 332 00:19:51,127 --> 00:19:53,546 with a big tub of mullet fish on the back end. 333 00:19:54,297 --> 00:19:57,842 And he used to come through the neighborhood, singing the song, 334 00:19:57,926 --> 00:19:59,886 ♪ Mullet fish, mullet fish man ♪ 335 00:20:00,762 --> 00:20:03,723 ♪ Mullet fish, five cent a pound Bring your pan ♪ 336 00:20:05,225 --> 00:20:06,893 ♪ Mullet fish man ♪ 337 00:20:06,976 --> 00:20:10,021 Next thing you know, you sitting down on your porch, 338 00:20:10,104 --> 00:20:11,773 you could smell mullet a mile away. 339 00:20:11,856 --> 00:20:14,108 Everybody cooking mullet fish every different way. 340 00:20:14,734 --> 00:20:16,736 I can't stop talking about the mullet fish. 341 00:20:16,819 --> 00:20:19,364 I better try to start eating some of this mullet fish 342 00:20:19,447 --> 00:20:21,074 because it tastes so good. 343 00:20:25,453 --> 00:20:29,290 -[Stephen] What do we have here? -[Bill] Oh, we got some okra gumbo. 344 00:20:31,376 --> 00:20:34,212 This be in the Gullah people diet all through the week. 345 00:20:34,295 --> 00:20:36,839 You'll always find one or two houses that have 346 00:20:36,923 --> 00:20:39,217 what they call either okra gumbo or okra soup. 347 00:20:42,262 --> 00:20:44,180 -The okra's so good. -[Bill] Mm-hmm. 348 00:20:44,264 --> 00:20:47,976 This type of food, Gullah food, you can feel 'em when you eat it. 349 00:20:48,059 --> 00:20:51,104 That's the good thing about Gullah style cooking. 350 00:20:51,187 --> 00:20:55,275 You can feel the food going in. You know you got something go in your body. 351 00:20:55,358 --> 00:20:58,319 One bowl will carry you a long way. 352 00:20:59,362 --> 00:21:02,365 I think even if you don't like okra in this culture… 353 00:21:02,448 --> 00:21:05,034 -[Stephen] Mmm. -…you still gotta know how to cook it. 354 00:21:05,118 --> 00:21:07,120 Because it's one of the main things we eat. 355 00:21:07,203 --> 00:21:09,497 One of the main vegetables that's in our diet. 356 00:21:10,665 --> 00:21:12,583 Who taught you how to cook gumbo? 357 00:21:13,126 --> 00:21:15,295 Oh, man, you know I grew up… 358 00:21:15,378 --> 00:21:19,674 My grandfather, he planted a little bit of everything, but he mainly planted okra. 359 00:21:19,757 --> 00:21:22,218 My grandmother made a mean okra soup. 360 00:21:22,302 --> 00:21:25,680 But I just grew up watching it. My mother makes it. 361 00:21:25,763 --> 00:21:28,808 So, are y'all proud of Brother BJ here? 362 00:21:28,891 --> 00:21:34,063 Yup. Seeing him trying to keep the culture and everything going is a blessing. 363 00:21:34,147 --> 00:21:39,444 One of the greatest things for me is for people I looked up to as a youth 364 00:21:39,527 --> 00:21:41,362 to tell me that I'm on the right track. 365 00:21:41,446 --> 00:21:46,451 It truly motivates me to continue to do what I need to do. 366 00:21:46,534 --> 00:21:48,536 [soft music playing] 367 00:21:53,166 --> 00:21:55,168 [congregation singing] 368 00:21:58,046 --> 00:22:01,966 ♪ Come by here, Lord Come by here ♪ 369 00:22:02,050 --> 00:22:05,887 ♪ Lord, we need you to Kumbaya ♪ 370 00:22:05,970 --> 00:22:10,975 ♪ Well, Lord,  We need you to Kumbaya ♪ 371 00:22:11,059 --> 00:22:14,979 ♪ Lord, we need you to come by here ♪ 372 00:22:15,063 --> 00:22:18,399 [woman] ♪ Oh, Lord come by here ♪ 373 00:22:18,483 --> 00:22:21,110 ♪ Oh, come by here, Lord ♪ 374 00:22:21,194 --> 00:22:23,196 [man] ♪ Come by here ♪ 375 00:22:23,279 --> 00:22:25,281 [woman] ♪ Come by here, Lord ♪ 376 00:22:25,365 --> 00:22:27,450 [man] ♪ Lord, come by here ♪ 377 00:22:27,533 --> 00:22:29,535 [woman] ♪ Come by here, Lord ♪ 378 00:22:29,619 --> 00:22:31,162 [man] ♪ Come by here ♪ 379 00:22:31,245 --> 00:22:36,125 [all] ♪ Oh, Lord, come by here ♪ 380 00:22:36,209 --> 00:22:38,086 [man 1] This Gullah  just did this jump here. 381 00:22:38,169 --> 00:22:40,588 Just came in when we were brought over. 382 00:22:40,671 --> 00:22:42,090 -[man 2] Right! -[man 1] This is it. 383 00:22:42,173 --> 00:22:43,508 Now you got Gullah Festival 384 00:22:43,591 --> 00:22:45,760 and everybody else trying to learn about it. 385 00:22:45,843 --> 00:22:49,305 {\an8}Huh? And you had it all the time, but you just didn't know what you had 386 00:22:49,389 --> 00:22:52,016 {\an8}because they made you feel as though you were inferior. 387 00:22:52,100 --> 00:22:54,018 But that's the best thing to happen to you. 388 00:22:54,102 --> 00:22:56,312 You're closer to your culture than anybody else. 389 00:22:56,396 --> 00:22:58,439 -[man 2] That's right. -[Smalls] I thank God for that. 390 00:22:58,523 --> 00:23:00,149 I thank God for the prayer house. 391 00:23:00,233 --> 00:23:02,693 I thank God for the teachers that we got, 392 00:23:02,777 --> 00:23:04,529 and I'm proud of where I came from. 393 00:23:05,405 --> 00:23:07,865 Come, Holy Spirit, heavenly endowed with thy power. 394 00:23:07,949 --> 00:23:11,119 Come put a flame with sacred love in these cold hearts of ours. 395 00:23:11,202 --> 00:23:13,121 Look how we grab our heavy load! 396 00:23:13,204 --> 00:23:14,372 From of this earth, 397 00:23:14,455 --> 00:23:17,834 our souls will neither fly nor go to reach eternal joy. 398 00:23:17,917 --> 00:23:20,795 We pray, Heavenly Father, for this plantation, Heavenly Father. 399 00:23:20,878 --> 00:23:23,923 These are not our beds. We ask in thy holy name. Everybody say… 400 00:23:24,006 --> 00:23:24,882 [all] Amen. 401 00:23:24,966 --> 00:23:26,968 [gentle music playing] 402 00:23:37,645 --> 00:23:40,523 [Stephen] As I continued to immerse myself in the Gullah culture, 403 00:23:40,606 --> 00:23:44,193 I landed on one of the most remote of the Sea Islands. 404 00:23:48,364 --> 00:23:51,117 {\an8}Daufuskie Island is only accessible by boat, 405 00:23:52,034 --> 00:23:57,373 and I joined Brother BJ as he prepared a traditional whole-hog roast 406 00:23:57,457 --> 00:23:59,834 at the home of Miss Sallie Ann Robinson. 407 00:23:59,917 --> 00:24:02,170 [upbeat music playing] 408 00:24:08,176 --> 00:24:10,303 Miss Sallie, you… We got this right here. 409 00:24:10,386 --> 00:24:13,890 Okay, I'll just give you a hole here. 410 00:24:17,810 --> 00:24:20,938 [Stephen] Miss Sallie Ann is {\an8}a chef and cookbook author, 411 00:24:21,022 --> 00:24:23,608 and is better known as the Gullah Diva. 412 00:24:25,109 --> 00:24:26,360 [Sallie Ann] There we go. 413 00:24:27,820 --> 00:24:30,323 I'm sixth generation, born native. 414 00:24:31,699 --> 00:24:34,577 We didn't know any more than living off the land. 415 00:24:35,453 --> 00:24:36,704 Gardening… 416 00:24:36,787 --> 00:24:41,125 And we would go to the ocean and get bundles of shrimp and fish and crabs. 417 00:24:41,209 --> 00:24:42,043 [Stephen] Wow. 418 00:24:47,924 --> 00:24:51,385 [Sallie Ann] We went to the woods and seeked out the wild games. 419 00:24:52,303 --> 00:24:53,721 We just had a good life. 420 00:25:00,102 --> 00:25:02,730 So, I'm gonna put these pig feet in here. 421 00:25:03,231 --> 00:25:06,234 -[Stephen] Beautiful. -[Sallie Ann] I start and I clean 'em up. 422 00:25:06,317 --> 00:25:09,070 And they ready for some good cooking. 423 00:25:09,987 --> 00:25:12,990 And I'm going to put some peas in there once this meat boils. 424 00:25:13,783 --> 00:25:15,660 We gonna have some peas and pig feet. 425 00:25:17,537 --> 00:25:19,872 Are you familiar with the phrase "high on the hog"? 426 00:25:19,956 --> 00:25:20,790 Oh, yeah. 427 00:25:20,873 --> 00:25:23,584 Going back to back in the slavery days. 428 00:25:23,668 --> 00:25:25,670 Hog was a big deal. 429 00:25:25,753 --> 00:25:29,799 Folks on the plantation would kill it for they master, 430 00:25:29,882 --> 00:25:31,968 but all they got was the parts of the hog, 431 00:25:32,051 --> 00:25:35,930 like the feet and the tail and the intestine, 432 00:25:36,013 --> 00:25:42,311 and they'd turn these actual meaningless-to-the-master parts 433 00:25:42,395 --> 00:25:45,147 into great meals for their family. 434 00:25:45,231 --> 00:25:49,944 And now it's kind of coming back into fashion as a delicacy. 435 00:25:50,027 --> 00:25:52,780 People would say, "Throw away. We throw these away." 436 00:25:52,863 --> 00:25:54,740 Well, you throw them over here, 437 00:25:54,824 --> 00:25:58,035 and then I'll make something like this, and then they want it. 438 00:25:58,911 --> 00:26:00,288 [Stephen] So, what comes next? 439 00:26:00,371 --> 00:26:03,416 Well, we gonna let that cook for a good 30, 40 minutes, 440 00:26:03,499 --> 00:26:06,711 and then I'll wash them peas and throw them in there. 441 00:26:06,794 --> 00:26:07,795 [Stephen] Right in. 442 00:26:07,878 --> 00:26:10,089 [Sallie Ann] Today,  I'm doing the field peas. 443 00:26:10,172 --> 00:26:12,592 [Stephen] Do you add more seasonings or anything like that? 444 00:26:12,675 --> 00:26:15,177 No. Right now, no. I'm gonna wait 'til the peas get in, 445 00:26:15,261 --> 00:26:18,055 -then dice a little onion in it. -[Stephen] Then we'll be in business. 446 00:26:18,139 --> 00:26:20,766 -[Sallie Ann] We'll be in business. Yeah. -[Stephen] All right. 447 00:26:24,020 --> 00:26:27,732 Ahh! That aroma. [laughs] 448 00:26:28,899 --> 00:26:29,775 [BJ] Y'all ready? 449 00:26:30,526 --> 00:26:33,195 I'm gonna take it out, and just come my way. 450 00:26:33,279 --> 00:26:34,447 One, two, three. 451 00:26:35,990 --> 00:26:36,824 All right. 452 00:26:38,117 --> 00:26:38,993 Lift. 453 00:26:40,161 --> 00:26:41,912 Lift up. [grunts] 454 00:26:45,207 --> 00:26:46,834 [Stephen] What are you putting on there? 455 00:26:46,917 --> 00:26:51,797 [BJ] This is just some red pepper, some dried ginger, and garlic in there. 456 00:26:51,881 --> 00:26:54,550 So, what makes this tradition so special? 457 00:26:55,593 --> 00:26:57,053 Um… 458 00:26:57,136 --> 00:27:00,056 You know, honestly, this was really just done once a year, 459 00:27:00,139 --> 00:27:03,476 typically during the winter, typically for the whole community. 460 00:27:03,559 --> 00:27:07,188 So, all the families. And there are probably multiple hogs, 461 00:27:07,271 --> 00:27:08,314 broken down. 462 00:27:08,856 --> 00:27:11,442 -Some would be salted for ham… -[Stephen] Mm-hmm. 463 00:27:11,525 --> 00:27:14,278 …some would be smoked, some would be made into sausage. 464 00:27:14,362 --> 00:27:15,529 It was a community thing. 465 00:27:15,613 --> 00:27:19,241 This is an animal that, honestly, was not eaten every day, 466 00:27:19,325 --> 00:27:20,826 -like you see now. -[Stephen] Yeah. 467 00:27:20,910 --> 00:27:22,203 This was to feed the community. 468 00:27:22,286 --> 00:27:25,706 Usually done in the winter, for your survival through the winter. 469 00:27:25,790 --> 00:27:27,583 It was a annual thing. 470 00:27:29,043 --> 00:27:30,753 [Stephen] So,  who taught you how to do this? 471 00:27:30,836 --> 00:27:32,672 -[BJ chuckles] -[Stephen] You taught yourself? 472 00:27:32,755 --> 00:27:34,173 -Watched the elders. -Yeah? 473 00:27:34,256 --> 00:27:36,384 -See Miss Sallie Ann right there? -[Stephen] Yeah. 474 00:27:36,467 --> 00:27:37,927 [BJ] Having conversations with elders 475 00:27:38,010 --> 00:27:40,596 and older folks like-- Miss Sallie ain't no elder, though. 476 00:27:40,680 --> 00:27:43,182 -[Sallie Ann] No. -I ain't gonna put that on her yet. 477 00:27:43,265 --> 00:27:45,935 -Kids have to be a part of the process… -[Stephen] Mm-hmm. 478 00:27:46,018 --> 00:27:47,228 so as they get older, 479 00:27:47,853 --> 00:27:50,356 they would know what to do and how to feed they family. 480 00:27:51,691 --> 00:27:54,443 -[BJ] This animal gives us life. -[Stephen] Mm-hmm. 481 00:27:54,527 --> 00:27:57,279 You pay respects to taking a life of a animal. 482 00:27:57,363 --> 00:27:59,907 -[Stephen] Definitely. -Make sure you don't mess it up. 483 00:27:59,990 --> 00:28:01,617 So, you have to watch this all night? 484 00:28:01,701 --> 00:28:03,953 -[Sallie Ann] Oh, yeah. -[BJ] No sleep gang tonight, baba. 485 00:28:04,036 --> 00:28:05,621 -No sleep? -[Sallie Ann laughing] 486 00:28:05,705 --> 00:28:07,039 No sleep gang tonight, baba. 487 00:28:07,123 --> 00:28:09,500 -[Stephen] We drinking beer or coffee? -[exhales] 488 00:28:09,583 --> 00:28:11,585 It ain't too hot, so beer won't dehydrate us. 489 00:28:11,669 --> 00:28:13,796 -Okay. -If it was hot, I'd tell you water, brah. 490 00:28:13,879 --> 00:28:14,797 -Yeah. -Yeah. 491 00:28:14,880 --> 00:28:17,633 -[Sallie Ann laughing] -I don't want you pass out out here, man. 492 00:28:17,717 --> 00:28:19,719 [gentle music playing] 493 00:28:32,898 --> 00:28:36,652 We're waiting for these coals to cool off 'cause you don't want 'em too hot. 494 00:28:36,736 --> 00:28:37,611 Yep. 495 00:28:41,824 --> 00:28:42,658 Yep. 496 00:28:47,288 --> 00:28:49,248 -Right here. -[man] Yes, sir. 497 00:28:51,333 --> 00:28:52,168 [BJ] Yeah. 498 00:28:55,129 --> 00:28:56,547 You're welcome to come back, baba. 499 00:28:56,630 --> 00:28:58,132 -[Stephen] Come back? -Play with fire. 500 00:28:58,215 --> 00:29:00,426 You can come back right 'bout two, three, four. 501 00:29:00,509 --> 00:29:03,596 Come out here day clean. We'll be right here. 502 00:29:03,679 --> 00:29:05,681 [music continues] 503 00:29:14,857 --> 00:29:17,318 [BJ] I'm gonna start sliding charcoal in. 504 00:29:31,707 --> 00:29:33,876 I think we good. Now it's just a waiting game. 505 00:29:33,959 --> 00:29:35,961 [soft music playing] 506 00:29:47,848 --> 00:29:49,391 [inhales and exhales deeply] 507 00:29:52,061 --> 00:29:54,980 [man] ♪ Whoa, leaves ♪ 508 00:29:55,064 --> 00:29:58,234 ♪ Adam in the garden picking up leaves ♪ 509 00:29:58,317 --> 00:29:59,151 ♪ Oh, Adam ♪ 510 00:29:59,235 --> 00:30:01,403 -[women] ♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -[man] ♪ Oh, poor Adam ♪ 511 00:30:01,487 --> 00:30:03,072 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Oh, brother ♪ 512 00:30:03,155 --> 00:30:04,990 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Oh, Adam 513 00:30:05,074 --> 00:30:06,867 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Oh, Adam 514 00:30:06,951 --> 00:30:08,702 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Yeah ♪ 515 00:30:08,786 --> 00:30:10,621 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Oh, Adam ♪ 516 00:30:10,704 --> 00:30:12,540 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Yeah, Adam ♪ 517 00:30:12,623 --> 00:30:14,333 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Yes, Adam ♪ 518 00:30:14,416 --> 00:30:16,252 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Adam in the garden ♪ 519 00:30:16,335 --> 00:30:18,212 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Adam in the garden ♪ 520 00:30:18,295 --> 00:30:20,130 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Adam and Eve ♪ 521 00:30:20,214 --> 00:30:21,924 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Adam and Eve ♪ 522 00:30:22,007 --> 00:30:23,759 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ God called Adam ♪ 523 00:30:23,843 --> 00:30:25,386 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Adam answered ♪ 524 00:30:25,469 --> 00:30:27,596 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Oh ♪ 525 00:30:27,680 --> 00:30:29,682 -♪ Picking up leaves ♪ -♪ Oh, Adam ♪ 526 00:30:30,474 --> 00:30:33,561 [Stephen] It's hard not to feel the impact of BJ's commitment, 527 00:30:34,311 --> 00:30:37,648 and his influence has spread outside of the Gullah community. 528 00:30:41,151 --> 00:30:43,070 Out in Apex, North Carolina, 529 00:30:43,153 --> 00:30:45,573 I met his friend Gabrielle Eitienne, 530 00:30:45,656 --> 00:30:48,576 who has been exploring her own cultural roots through food. 531 00:30:56,083 --> 00:30:59,253 [Gabrielle] I started researching  the Sea Islands, 532 00:31:00,004 --> 00:31:05,134 and then learning about the work that BJ was doing in South Carolina. 533 00:31:06,010 --> 00:31:07,428 And I remember coming home, 534 00:31:07,511 --> 00:31:11,223 and my grandfather had some collard seeds hanging under his shed, 535 00:31:11,307 --> 00:31:13,309 and I was like, "What is that, Pop?" 536 00:31:13,392 --> 00:31:17,229 And he was like, "That's how you get your collard seeds. I'm drying them out." 537 00:31:18,147 --> 00:31:21,483 {\an8}"Say that again, please, sir. What is that you say?" 538 00:31:21,567 --> 00:31:23,611 And all the research I was doing 539 00:31:23,694 --> 00:31:26,238 was aligning with what I was learning from my grandfather. 540 00:31:26,822 --> 00:31:29,909 So, you packed up from New York and came back home, huh? 541 00:31:29,992 --> 00:31:31,660 Yeah, essentially. 542 00:31:32,244 --> 00:31:34,914 I packed my things in a minivan 543 00:31:35,456 --> 00:31:36,957 and got up the road. 544 00:31:37,583 --> 00:31:39,919 It felt like it was ordained. 545 00:31:40,002 --> 00:31:42,588 What did your grandpa say when you came back home? 546 00:31:43,339 --> 00:31:44,256 [laughs] 547 00:31:45,090 --> 00:31:47,259 [Gabrielle] He was like, "I didn't think I'd see you here 548 00:31:47,343 --> 00:31:49,595 until you were walking around with a cane." 549 00:31:49,678 --> 00:31:51,472 [laughing] Which is kinda, like… 550 00:31:52,348 --> 00:31:53,474 hilarious. 551 00:31:53,557 --> 00:31:55,559 [soothing music playing] 552 00:32:03,442 --> 00:32:05,986 [Gabrielle] A part of the way  that I'm sharing 553 00:32:06,070 --> 00:32:08,113 some of these lessons from my elders 554 00:32:08,197 --> 00:32:10,240 is to host community dinners. 555 00:32:11,325 --> 00:32:15,537 These dinners are focused on the cultivation and preservation 556 00:32:15,621 --> 00:32:17,122 of Black food tradition. 557 00:32:23,128 --> 00:32:26,423 This food feeds our community all around us. 558 00:32:27,591 --> 00:32:29,134 We still have grocery stores, 559 00:32:29,218 --> 00:32:32,888 but that's not the same as being able to come over and pick from the salad patch 560 00:32:32,972 --> 00:32:35,724 or getting your collards from someone you know. 561 00:32:36,433 --> 00:32:40,980 I've been able to rethink how we can still continue to access, like, fresh food. 562 00:32:43,065 --> 00:32:45,526 I feel like I've just started getting warmed up 563 00:32:45,609 --> 00:32:48,195 -to some of the possibility of this space… -[Stephen] Of course. 564 00:32:49,238 --> 00:32:51,281 …and what it could mean for our community, 565 00:32:51,365 --> 00:32:53,534 which is a historically Black community. 566 00:32:56,370 --> 00:32:58,080 [Stephen] Gabrielle's commitment  to the land 567 00:32:58,163 --> 00:33:01,375 her family has lived on for generations was admirable, 568 00:33:01,458 --> 00:33:04,837 but come to find out, her whole setup was in jeopardy. 569 00:33:08,590 --> 00:33:10,676 So, what is happening with the land? 570 00:33:11,510 --> 00:33:14,888 The Department of Transportation is building out a highway, 571 00:33:14,972 --> 00:33:19,601 and so what is now a two-lane road, it'll be a seven-lane expressway. 572 00:33:19,685 --> 00:33:23,272 And so it's supposed to cut through the garden, 573 00:33:23,355 --> 00:33:24,982 like right across there. 574 00:33:25,065 --> 00:33:29,528 Then on the other side, it's gonna displace my uncle Andrew, my uncle Lynn. 575 00:33:30,362 --> 00:33:32,614 Um, all my relatives on that side 576 00:33:32,698 --> 00:33:36,744 and some further down on our side also will have to move. 577 00:33:36,827 --> 00:33:40,622 And there's no, like, option. They don't give you an option to stay. 578 00:33:41,165 --> 00:33:44,376 So, basically, eminent domain is what we're talking about. 579 00:33:45,044 --> 00:33:47,212 Yeah. Exactly. 580 00:33:47,838 --> 00:33:51,717 And what is that like for your family? 581 00:33:51,800 --> 00:33:55,345 A lot of the conversations are hard because 582 00:33:55,429 --> 00:33:58,682 people in their seventies and eighties don't want to move 583 00:33:58,766 --> 00:34:02,644 from the homes that they've known for a long time. 584 00:34:02,728 --> 00:34:06,106 Uncle Andrew is the one who plants this garden with me. 585 00:34:06,190 --> 00:34:08,567 And so, like, to put him in another place, 586 00:34:08,650 --> 00:34:12,696 it just-- It repositions so much. It changes so much. 587 00:34:13,363 --> 00:34:15,365 What's crazy is my uncle talks about 588 00:34:15,449 --> 00:34:17,951 how this land wouldn't even bear grass at one point. 589 00:34:18,035 --> 00:34:21,121 It was really, like, the undesired place to live. 590 00:34:21,205 --> 00:34:23,582 And that's how, you know, Black folks got it. 591 00:34:23,665 --> 00:34:26,752 It was only sold to Black people at one time. 592 00:34:27,336 --> 00:34:31,757 And so, now that we got it, and we've grown it, and we've nurtured it, 593 00:34:31,840 --> 00:34:34,093 and we've given it ourselves… 594 00:34:34,843 --> 00:34:36,470 now, you know… 595 00:34:36,553 --> 00:34:38,972 -[Stephen] It's time to go. -Now it's time to go. 596 00:34:40,224 --> 00:34:41,600 [gentle music playing] 597 00:34:55,280 --> 00:34:59,159 [Gabrielle] As we're re-imagining  this land and this space 598 00:34:59,243 --> 00:35:01,537 and what it means to us, 599 00:35:02,621 --> 00:35:07,459 we are also going to continue to cultivate food 600 00:35:07,543 --> 00:35:12,297 and joy and laughter and creativity on this land. 601 00:35:14,049 --> 00:35:18,387 Because continuing those things, even with the given circumstances, 602 00:35:18,470 --> 00:35:21,181 feels like resistance to me. 603 00:35:29,148 --> 00:35:31,942 [man] Heavenly Father, we are so grateful and thankful for Gabrielle 604 00:35:32,025 --> 00:35:33,819 and for all she does, Lord, 605 00:35:33,902 --> 00:35:37,030 to unite people in the community around the food, around the table, 606 00:35:37,114 --> 00:35:41,493 because around the table, that's where a lot of stories are created 607 00:35:41,577 --> 00:35:43,453 and legacies are made. 608 00:35:43,537 --> 00:35:46,748 And we are so grateful and thankful for opening up this home, 609 00:35:46,832 --> 00:35:51,461 this farm that has a lot of history, a lot of legacy, 610 00:35:51,545 --> 00:35:56,175 and we just ask that you bless this meal for the nourishing of our bodies. Amen. 611 00:35:56,258 --> 00:35:57,134 -Ase. -Amen. 612 00:35:59,970 --> 00:36:01,805 [Gabrielle] Beautiful! Thank you, guys! 613 00:36:01,889 --> 00:36:03,348 [Stephen] Thank you. 614 00:36:03,432 --> 00:36:06,894 [Gabrielle] It feels so good to be surrounded by all this love. 615 00:36:08,395 --> 00:36:11,231 -I have some poulet rouge hens… -[Stephen] Amazing. 616 00:36:11,315 --> 00:36:15,485 …that I cooked over the coals and brined for two days 617 00:36:15,569 --> 00:36:20,032 with love and cinnamon and cumin and smoked paprika, 618 00:36:20,949 --> 00:36:25,245 and then I dressed 'em in a strawberry wine glaze shallot. 619 00:36:26,038 --> 00:36:29,041 I have some dried field peas and white beans, 620 00:36:29,124 --> 00:36:33,754 turnip salad, red onion and shiitake mushrooms… 621 00:36:35,964 --> 00:36:41,220 and a hickory-smoked beet cornbread. 622 00:36:42,095 --> 00:36:45,098 This beautiful cabbage, we charred and dressed them 623 00:36:45,182 --> 00:36:48,393 in a dressing that I made from pear preserves, 624 00:36:48,477 --> 00:36:53,315 and red wine vinegar and white pepper and benne seed. 625 00:36:53,398 --> 00:36:55,234 And I think that's it, 626 00:36:55,317 --> 00:36:58,237 so enjoy and dig in. 627 00:36:59,446 --> 00:37:02,074 -[woman] This particular variety-- -[Gabrielle] Yeah? 628 00:37:02,157 --> 00:37:04,576 [guests chattering] 629 00:37:06,870 --> 00:37:08,914 -[Gabrielle] I don't know. -[chatter continues] 630 00:37:08,997 --> 00:37:10,374 -So good. -[Gabrielle] I love y'all. 631 00:37:10,457 --> 00:37:11,833 -Y'all so dramatic. -No. 632 00:37:11,917 --> 00:37:12,876 [Gabrielle laughs] 633 00:37:12,960 --> 00:37:14,670 No, this is our restraint. 634 00:37:15,587 --> 00:37:19,841 [man] Your turnip greens have transported me back in time. 635 00:37:21,468 --> 00:37:25,430 They are the closest, in terms of taste, 636 00:37:25,514 --> 00:37:28,517 that I've had since childhood, 637 00:37:28,600 --> 00:37:30,936 of greens cooked this way. 638 00:37:31,520 --> 00:37:35,232 They have a richness of taste that 639 00:37:35,899 --> 00:37:39,361 I didn't realize that I was missing until just now. 640 00:37:40,946 --> 00:37:44,783 I'm really interested in, like, you as kind of, 641 00:37:44,866 --> 00:37:49,997 a guardian of this legacy of celebration 642 00:37:50,080 --> 00:37:52,124 and convening in this house. 643 00:37:52,207 --> 00:37:55,168 -What we're doing now, you know? -Hello. And here's to the crew. 644 00:37:55,294 --> 00:37:57,296 -Oh, my God! -Hey. 645 00:37:57,379 --> 00:37:58,422 [man] You made it! 646 00:37:58,505 --> 00:38:00,507 -[Stephen] Wow. -[all laughing] 647 00:38:00,590 --> 00:38:02,759 {\an8}-All right. Y'all be good. -[Stephen] That's all we get? 648 00:38:02,843 --> 00:38:05,387 {\an8}[Gabrielle] That's all we get? You're not gonna chat for a minute? 649 00:38:05,470 --> 00:38:06,346 Y'all be good. 650 00:38:06,430 --> 00:38:07,639 [Stephen] No. 651 00:38:07,723 --> 00:38:10,517 -[Gabrielle] You don't want no chicken? -Y'all be good. 652 00:38:10,600 --> 00:38:11,893 Thank you, Uncle Andrew. 653 00:38:11,977 --> 00:38:13,353 -This means so much. -All right. 654 00:38:13,437 --> 00:38:14,771 [Stephen] Thank you, Uncle Andrew. 655 00:38:14,855 --> 00:38:18,108 -This is what I'm talking about. -This is what I'm talking about, too. 656 00:38:18,191 --> 00:38:20,819 -Well, talk about it. Really. -This is it. 657 00:38:23,280 --> 00:38:25,240 This just feels so, like… 658 00:38:25,324 --> 00:38:29,161 To have dropped off, like, the wine we made together, it's like… 659 00:38:32,497 --> 00:38:34,958 -[voice breaking] I'm sorry. -No, it's okay. 660 00:38:35,042 --> 00:38:37,044 [gentle music playing] 661 00:38:39,212 --> 00:38:40,756 [sighs] 662 00:38:43,925 --> 00:38:45,385 So, the reason, um… 663 00:38:46,428 --> 00:38:48,889 communing in these spaces is important… 664 00:38:50,098 --> 00:38:52,851 um… is, like, just for this. 665 00:38:56,021 --> 00:38:57,272 My, um… 666 00:38:58,106 --> 00:39:02,861 My uncle that just dropped this off, a lot of you already know that, um… 667 00:39:04,237 --> 00:39:07,199 he's being forcibly removed from his home. 668 00:39:07,282 --> 00:39:09,785 -Mmm. -[Gabrielle] Through eminent domain. 669 00:39:10,494 --> 00:39:11,453 [woman] Mm. 670 00:39:12,662 --> 00:39:14,164 [man] It sounds so benign. 671 00:39:14,247 --> 00:39:16,124 -[Stephen] Right? -[man] And it's so otherwise. 672 00:39:16,208 --> 00:39:17,042 Yeah. 673 00:39:18,752 --> 00:39:19,586 Um… 674 00:39:20,545 --> 00:39:22,464 We've been packing his stuff… 675 00:39:22,547 --> 00:39:24,674 -Mmm. -…for, like, the past month. 676 00:39:25,425 --> 00:39:28,470 I mean, this is the last week that he's actually in his home. 677 00:39:28,553 --> 00:39:29,429 [woman] Mmm. 678 00:39:32,808 --> 00:39:34,518 [Gabrielle] And he wouldn't say it, 679 00:39:35,018 --> 00:39:36,978 but his heart is really heavy right now, 680 00:39:37,062 --> 00:39:40,524 and he's really feeling the impact of that and what that means for him. 681 00:39:44,027 --> 00:39:46,905 So for him to still come through and bring me this… 682 00:39:46,988 --> 00:39:48,156 [tearfully] …is really 683 00:39:49,241 --> 00:39:50,409 something I can't… 684 00:39:53,036 --> 00:39:53,870 Um… 685 00:39:57,624 --> 00:40:01,962 Him and my grandfather have inspired the work that I'm doing right now. 686 00:40:03,463 --> 00:40:05,048 They've been teaching me… [sighs] 687 00:40:05,132 --> 00:40:09,594 …so much about what they know about our food tradition. 688 00:40:10,595 --> 00:40:14,057 And the way that I like to think, like, I'm woke and I'm, like, 689 00:40:14,141 --> 00:40:19,104 I know, like, Black people and our needs and, you know, I know our history. 690 00:40:19,187 --> 00:40:23,275 Like, coming home and being with them, I've learned so much about our history 691 00:40:23,358 --> 00:40:25,735 through the food that we're eating and we're growing, 692 00:40:25,819 --> 00:40:27,779 and through communion like this. 693 00:40:28,447 --> 00:40:31,283 It just shows you, like, why this is important. 694 00:40:33,410 --> 00:40:38,707 They can never take away what you learned underneath those pines. 695 00:40:39,249 --> 00:40:41,835 That can never be taken from you, 696 00:40:41,918 --> 00:40:44,921 and we need you to hold on to that. 697 00:40:46,047 --> 00:40:50,469 To that knowledge and to that feeling and to that drive, you know? 698 00:40:50,552 --> 00:40:51,595 Mm-hmm. 699 00:40:51,678 --> 00:40:52,762 That's yours now. 700 00:40:56,933 --> 00:40:58,935 [soft music playing] 701 00:41:00,729 --> 00:41:02,731 [birds chirping] 702 00:41:11,490 --> 00:41:13,492 [rhythmic music playing] 703 00:41:25,545 --> 00:41:27,339 [Stephen] What are we making?  What is this? 704 00:41:27,422 --> 00:41:33,512 So, today we're just making a classic barbecue house dish of South Carolina. 705 00:41:33,595 --> 00:41:35,263 Head hash. 706 00:41:35,347 --> 00:41:38,808 I've chopped up everything you can imagine that comes off the head. 707 00:41:38,892 --> 00:41:39,809 -Okay. -Right here. 708 00:41:39,893 --> 00:41:41,520 And I got a little bit left to cut. 709 00:41:45,065 --> 00:41:47,192 Can you do me a favor, grab that barbecue sauce? 710 00:41:47,275 --> 00:41:48,485 Oh, yeah. I'll be right back. 711 00:41:48,568 --> 00:41:51,571 So we boil the head in this broth right here. 712 00:41:51,655 --> 00:41:52,531 So… 713 00:41:53,240 --> 00:41:55,575 It's typically half head broth, half barbecue sauce. 714 00:41:55,659 --> 00:41:56,535 [Stephen] Okay. 715 00:41:56,618 --> 00:41:58,620 All we do is let it simmer down, like a stew. 716 00:41:58,703 --> 00:41:59,704 [Stephen] Yeah. 717 00:41:59,788 --> 00:42:00,872 Serve over rice. 718 00:42:02,832 --> 00:42:05,502 [Stephen] So, what is the history  of this dish? 719 00:42:05,585 --> 00:42:08,463 The theory is the enslaved were always given the inferior parts, 720 00:42:08,547 --> 00:42:11,800 and they made do with those inferior parts, 721 00:42:11,883 --> 00:42:14,177 but when we came from West Africa, 722 00:42:14,261 --> 00:42:17,305 you know, when we did hunt animals, every part was already used, 723 00:42:17,389 --> 00:42:20,725 so they already had the knowledge of using the offcuts. 724 00:42:23,687 --> 00:42:26,398 So, what's in this barbecue sauce? 725 00:42:26,481 --> 00:42:30,068 This is a mustard-based sauce, with a tomato base in it. 726 00:42:30,151 --> 00:42:31,945 -Okay. -[BJ] This goes right in here. 727 00:42:32,028 --> 00:42:34,906 Okay. You know, in North Carolina, we like vinegar, 728 00:42:34,990 --> 00:42:37,617 -but I'm not hatin' on you. -You be hatin' the dish? 729 00:42:37,701 --> 00:42:39,869 -[laughs] I'm trying not to. -[Stephen] Not today. 730 00:42:40,579 --> 00:42:42,497 And you're gonna cook this back down again? 731 00:42:42,581 --> 00:42:44,791 Yeah. We're gonna put this back on the burner. 732 00:42:44,874 --> 00:42:45,750 Nice. 733 00:42:47,168 --> 00:42:48,128 [Gabrielle] Okay. 734 00:42:49,546 --> 00:42:52,465 So, this is just the whole-- Everything from the head? 735 00:42:52,549 --> 00:42:57,345 -Everything. -The tongue. The eyes? Everything. 736 00:42:57,470 --> 00:42:58,805 -You name it. -I need to know. 737 00:42:58,888 --> 00:43:00,640 You see that right there? 738 00:43:00,724 --> 00:43:03,602 -Whatever's not in there is in here. -Yeah, whatever was there. 739 00:43:04,227 --> 00:43:06,396 [BJ] So, I throw that  barbecue sauce in it. 740 00:43:08,189 --> 00:43:09,107 Oh, yeah. 741 00:43:10,275 --> 00:43:13,361 -I'll grab a spoon. Do you need these? -No, you can grab that. 742 00:43:13,445 --> 00:43:15,530 -Okay. -And you can go right over here, man… 743 00:43:15,614 --> 00:43:17,824 -[Stephen] Okay. -…and get this on the burner. 744 00:43:17,907 --> 00:43:19,701 [Stephen] How long  are you gonna cook this? 745 00:43:19,784 --> 00:43:23,496 [BJ] About 30 minutes. Let it simmer. Let it start bubblin'. 746 00:43:25,290 --> 00:43:26,666 Sauce smells good. 747 00:43:30,128 --> 00:43:32,339 This where the party at? [laughs] 748 00:43:33,757 --> 00:43:36,009 [BJ] Now we invite the community  to come join. 749 00:43:36,092 --> 00:43:38,428 [Sallie Ann] The community. Come join us. 750 00:43:38,511 --> 00:43:40,305 Hey. Hey, sweetie, how you doin'? 751 00:43:41,014 --> 00:43:41,848 [guest] Hey, hey. 752 00:43:41,931 --> 00:43:44,643 Hey, hey. How's everybody? 753 00:43:44,726 --> 00:43:46,728 [upbeat music playing] 754 00:43:47,687 --> 00:43:48,730 [BJ] Yeah. 755 00:43:50,440 --> 00:43:51,650 All right. Beaut. 756 00:43:52,275 --> 00:43:53,860 That's gonna be… Yeah, right there. 757 00:43:57,030 --> 00:43:59,491 -Pull it out. Yeah. -Pull the wire all the way out. 758 00:43:59,574 --> 00:44:00,742 All right, that's cool. 759 00:44:01,242 --> 00:44:03,244 [guests chattering] 760 00:44:05,705 --> 00:44:09,042 -[BJ] She just want to go up to it, and-- -[Gabrielle] She ready now. 761 00:44:09,125 --> 00:44:11,127 [music continues] 762 00:44:17,342 --> 00:44:21,262 Now I'm gonna treat myself to some cracklin'. 763 00:44:21,346 --> 00:44:23,348 -[Sallie Ann laughs] Yes. -[Gabrielle] Okay. 764 00:44:23,431 --> 00:44:25,642 -Mmm! Y'all hear it across the table? -[Sallie Ann] Yeah! 765 00:44:25,725 --> 00:44:27,644 [Gabrielle] I definitely heard it. 766 00:44:27,769 --> 00:44:28,603 That's how you know. 767 00:44:28,687 --> 00:44:31,523 -[Sallie Ann] Yep, it's right. -[Gabrielle] Save some for me. 768 00:44:31,606 --> 00:44:33,858 -My uncle Andrew made this wine. -[Sallie Ann] All right. 769 00:44:33,942 --> 00:44:35,610 [Gabrielle] This is plum wine. 770 00:44:35,694 --> 00:44:38,321 We'll raise a toast to our ancestors, elders… 771 00:44:38,405 --> 00:44:39,823 [Sallie Ann] Ancestors, yes. 772 00:44:39,906 --> 00:44:41,574 …past, present, future. 773 00:44:41,658 --> 00:44:42,867 [Gabrielle] Absolutely. 774 00:44:42,951 --> 00:44:44,577 -Cheers. -[Gabrielle] Cheers. 775 00:44:45,370 --> 00:44:46,621 -Nice. -[BJ] That's good. 776 00:44:46,705 --> 00:44:47,539 So good. 777 00:44:47,622 --> 00:44:50,083 -[Gabrielle] So good with the pig. -[BJ] Really balanced. 778 00:44:53,211 --> 00:44:55,255 [all] ♪ Hey, oh, riding on ♪ 779 00:44:55,338 --> 00:44:56,881 -[woman] ♪ Riding there ♪ -[all] ♪ Yeah ♪ 780 00:44:56,965 --> 00:44:58,550 -♪ Riding there ♪ -♪ Yeah ♪ 781 00:44:58,633 --> 00:45:01,761 -♪ Riding there ♪ -♪ Hey, oh, riding on ♪ 782 00:45:01,845 --> 00:45:03,847 -♪ But I feel fine ♪ -♪ Yeah ♪ 783 00:45:03,930 --> 00:45:05,682 -♪ I feel fine ♪ -♪ Yeah ♪ 784 00:45:05,765 --> 00:45:08,935 -♪ I feel fine ♪ -♪ Hey, oh, riding, riding on ♪ 785 00:45:09,018 --> 00:45:10,729 -♪ I feel fine ♪ -♪ Yeah ♪ 786 00:45:10,812 --> 00:45:12,647 -♪ I feel fine ♪ -♪ Yeah ♪ 787 00:45:12,731 --> 00:45:16,109 -♪ I feel fine ♪ -♪ Hey, oh, riding, riding on ♪ 788 00:45:16,192 --> 00:45:18,194 -♪ Two white horses ♪ -♪ Yeah ♪ 789 00:45:18,278 --> 00:45:19,904 -♪ Two white horses ♪ -♪ Yeah ♪ 790 00:45:19,988 --> 00:45:23,199 -♪ Two white horses ♪ -♪ Hey, oh, riding, riding on ♪ 791 00:45:23,283 --> 00:45:25,285 [song fading atmospherically] 792 00:45:32,667 --> 00:45:35,628 [somber orchestral music playing] 793 00:45:37,922 --> 00:45:41,843 [Stephen] The stories of our ancestors don't just begin and end in the South. 794 00:45:43,052 --> 00:45:45,472 Slavery was flourishing in the North. 795 00:45:47,515 --> 00:45:50,602 New York was the backbone of an emerging nation. 796 00:45:51,936 --> 00:45:55,732 And while our founding fathers were penning the Constitution in Philadelphia, 797 00:45:56,900 --> 00:45:59,527 it would be their enslaved chefs 798 00:45:59,611 --> 00:46:03,740 who would establish the palate for a new democracy. 799 00:46:03,823 --> 00:46:05,825 [somber music continues]