[TV static drones]
[bright tone]
[dramatic music]
♪ ♪
- Life is so precious.
This time on Earth is so short.
It's challenging to make the good choices.
After Eddie, I was, for lack of a better word, an asshole
that I would not want to be around.
For me not to be the best version of myself,
my family deserves better than that.
- Everyone, go!
Wait!
- The goal this year is just to disconnect and get away
from everything and provide an environment for our children
to grow up in.
We've looked all over the world.
I mean, I was looking at Costa Rica.
I was looking for something in Florida.
- One could be my suitcase!
- We found the best school for them
to share with them what's actually
really important in life.
The big move was, pshht,
from Hawaii to Italy.
[upbeat music]
- Buongiorno!
- After a lot of research, I found the school.
And it's a forest school.
So they spend a lot of time outside, survival skills,
but at the same time, art and creativity.
There's no technology.
There's no iPads.
There's no computer.
It's this community of families from all
over the world who just have a vision of something different.
So we decided, why not try it out?
♪ ♪
I've got a couple second thoughts, mainly around,
what am I doing taking Garrett to this small village
in the middle of nowhere?
- I need to get my princess dress from the wash.
- It's going to be a learning experience for everyone.
♪ ♪
It's not about changing his life
or getting him to retire from surfing or become
a grandpa, whatever.
I just want to clean out our life,
like, remove the unnecessary.
♪ ♪
- Barrel's thriving.
Theia's thriving.
Fe is most like me.
So watch out, world.
It's incredible.
I wake up in the morning, all I think about is them.
In Hawaii, I wake up in the morning,
all I think about is the yard or the waves.
- It's not what was missing in Hawaii and Nazaré.
It's what's missing in Italy.
And what's missing in Italy is distraction.
I think he is craving some sort of peace inside of him,
inside of his mind.
He does want to be able to be still
and be content being still.
- You guys want to come to the wave pool?
There's a wave in Milan.
- Here we are, new versions of ourselves.
Shed another onion layer, yeah, Garrett?
- Yeah.
- I really don't know how Garrett will do.
Only time will tell.
It could go either way.
And I actually think it'll probably go either way a lot.
♪ ♪
- Ah.
[soft music]
♪ ♪
- This season, I just felt like maybe it's time
to not just focus on Nazaré and,
sort of, look outside the box.
And there's a lot of ocean, and there's a lot of places to go.
This year, I've actually got infrastructure and equipment
that I can call my own.
I've got skis, which, you know, they're mine.
It was getting to the point where it's just,
I can't keep borrowing Garrett's stuff.
I have to, like, be completely self-sufficient.
Well, it's actually quite cool.
Like, being a bit freer, you know?
[soft music]
Garrett phoned me and said
he's moving to Italy.
I was like, really?
Like, not, sort of, questioning, but, like, why?
But I kind of get it.
Like, it was for the family.
But then it was also to be obviously closer to here.
He was, sort of, saying that he could
do strike missions easier, and it's, like, less traveling.
And he wouldn't have to drag the whole family over
if he was coming.
It was like, OK, possibly could be good.
♪ ♪
For me, I'm starting in a good place,
like, starting where I want to be.
♪ ♪
- [sighs]
It's nice to be here.
Beginning of the season.
It's always exciting.
There's always, like, some butterflies.
It's the best just to see everybody again.
Brother.
Good to see you, bro.
It's this eternal moment with the lighthouse and the church.
Waves.
♪ ♪
It's funny not having Garrett here.
It feels a lot different.
I'm always, like, riding the Garrett wave, you know?
It's just like, yeah, come on. Gotta be here at this time.
Like, this is where we're going to be out and everything.
And-- and it's good because I don't have
to think about anything or make decisions other than like,
oh, either I'm going, or I'm not.
And now it's like, oh, I'm putting stuff together,
you know?
♪ ♪
It's like a little test of, how--
how much have we learned since he's been gone?
♪ ♪
- I would hope that they all actually go out
and practice without me there.
Because if I'm there, I'm going to drive,
and nobody's going to drive.
They're all going to get waves,
and nobody's going to get better.
So it's much better if I'm not there.
- So now the forecast--
- How was it? - Fun.
- Good? You got some good ones, huh?
- Yeah. - I saw.
Wonderful.
How you doing?
- I'm doing good.
- Oh, my gosh.
Oh, look at this baby.
- So young.
- How long? Six?
- 6 1/2. - 6 1/2.
- Three months more.
Three months more.
- Yeah.
- Are you excited?
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
I want to run. [laughs]
- [speaking Portuguese]
- Hey!
[speaking Portuguese]
- [grunts]
[grunts]
[laughter]
[speaking Portuguese]
[laughs]
[chatter]
[upbeat music]
♪ ♪
[soft music]
♪ ♪
- Oh, oh, oh!
You see the pink mountain, Barrel?
Check this out.
Whoa!
Frost everywhere.
This is like when I walked up to Nazaré for the first time.
Ta-da!
- Oh, wow.
Wow!
- Right?
- Look at that, Theia.
- You like it?
- It's pretty awesome.
- Have you seen the Alps before?
- No, I never seen the Alps before.
It looks pretty nice.
- Fe.
- Titus Waimea McNamara, my firstborn son.
The main reason I was in Italy was to be with my family.
Titus came to visit us.
And it was super special, really good quality
time where I could connect.
- Hey.
Hey.
- You don't want the white stuff?
- No.
- Oh.
- What?
It's really nice over here.
It's a lot slower than home, even.
[chuckles]
[chatter]
My dad's always, like, battled to balance
family life with work life.
So I think it's good for my dad to be here, honestly.
It's like-- it's really quiet, and he can focus
on the family a lot more.
But then he's also really close to everywhere.
I think it's better for him.
- We're getting lumber delivered.
I think we'll be good for the winter.
But let's see what they're--
not sure exactly how much is in that thing.
Holy moly.
Here, we don't rush.
We do what we can when we can.
And then there's always another day.
My whole life, I've always rushed everything.
Time to slow down.
Enjoy the big pile of wood.
Enjoy the view and the trees and the leaves falling.
♪ ♪
Being in Italy has 100% 360'd me.
It's incredible.
- Isn't it 180?
- 360 for me.
I go all the way or nothing.
[chuckles]
♪ Heading to school on a bicycle, bicycle ♪
♪ Want to ride my bicycle, want to ride my bike ♪
Nicole, I can do all that.
- At this point, I've been with Garrett
for, what, 13 years?
It used to be connected.
And I kind of know his mojo.
I see him good for a week, maybe two weeks.
But I'm not going to believe it until I've seen
a solid month of changed behavior.
In a perfect world, Garrett sheds his armor,
opens his heart, and becomes connected to his true self,
to the beauty that is Garrett.
- Cotty?
- Are you driving?
Have you driven in Morocco before?
- No.
- There's-- there's stops every freaking hour.
They stop you every hour.
- Just make sure you have all your paperwork.
And you're all convoying?
- Yeah, yeah.
- Amazing.
Amazing.
- So what's going on?
- Cotty, Lucas--
Chumbo, Lucas Fink, and Justine are
all driving to...
Morocco to go surf the new 100-foot wave.
Let's see. [laughs]
- And do you think you're going?
- I don't know.
If the forecast holds, then I'll talk with Nicole,
and we'll figure it out.
[dramatic music]
♪ ♪
- Well, Friday looks amazing.
- Yeah.
- You said something about going to surf some slabs,
or you going to go out to the big wave?
- No idea.
Are you going to come?
- I don't know.
I'm going to keep a close eye on it.
I'll see if the forecast holds, man.
- OK, yeah, I got you, man.
Yeah, yeah, I know the score.
So no stress.
He's doing one of those might come, might not scenarios.
- 21.
That's huge.
Sunday is the big one.
Like, could be 100-foot-plus, but--
All right, so I've been watching Morocco for a while.
Morocco is a uncharted territory.
There is a 100-foot wave out there, guaranteed.
Wind is good.
It's a monster.
Everybody, oh, the swell is coming.
Come on down.
It's going to be huge.
- If we were in Hawaii and he said he's going to Morocco,
I would say, no way.
But if we're in Italy and he's like, oh, I'm going to Morocco
for two days, I'll be back in a couple days,
I'll be like, OK, see you later.
- Yeah.
- You see the latest forecast?
- No.
- All right.
- But Nicole's already booked my ticket,
so she's making me go.
- [laughs]
And you're not far away.
Fuck, it's, like, Italy.
Like, it's not like you're coming from Hawaii.
- Yeah.
And that's why I'm here, so I can do this.
So-- besides the kids and everything else.
It's-- it's huge. It's perfect.
- Right, right.
- All right, buddy. Love you.
- All right, man. Love you.
- Bye. - See you in a bit.
[laughter]
- That's why I'm here, so I can do this.
Oh, obviously, because of the kids.
[laughter]
- So, do you want to go to Morocco?
I'll show you a picture of the wave
that we're going to go surf.
- Whoa.
That wave is crazy.
- So clean.
- It looks pretty nice.
[upbeat music]
♪ ♪
- It was the first trip I've done
with, like, Lucas and Chumbo and all the Brazilian guys.
And it was, like, foot down as fast as we could
with two jet skis on the back.
And that was, like, the mission.
- [speaking Portuguese]
- My driver just threw the jet ski
on the side of the drive-thru.
[chatter]
- What just happened?
Everyone helped, all the poor staff.
Yeah, it was a good vibe.
It was fun.
Made it a lot of fun.
- [speaking Portuguese]
[horn blowing]
[chatter]
- We're in Morocco.
♪ ♪
[chatter]
- We are in Morocco.
[chatter]
Right here, eh?
- I think it's down here.
[chatter]
- Love it.
I love it.
It's so-- so rad.
This is what it's about, innit?
Definitely.
- I'm getting excited.
I want to get in the water.
[laughter]
The swell's going to drop fast.
So we got to get it while we can.
We're about 20 minutes away.
- OK, I'll just send you right now the location.
- OK. - Let's go.
- Awesome. Thank you.
- See you. - Bye.
That was Jerome.
Jerome's the guy who's putting the whole trip together
and the guy who discovered most of the waves here.
- Jerome and his team, they've been
surfing this spot for, like, at least 10 years, maybe more.
They know that coastline like the back of their hands.
- It looks very, very promising.
Beautiful, perfect little wave.
But the icing on the cake is that we got Titus here.
He's fired up.
We're all fired up.
My son, Titus, has been surfing since he was four.
♪ ♪
- I take it like a big roller coaster.
- Titus is a soul surfer.
He just loves surfing.
He surfs for fun.
Nobody pushing him.
Big, small, he will surf.
- It's all about just loving being out there.
And I'm not having a good time, then why am I out there,
you know?
- When he was young, we had a really good relationship.
I took him every day.
It's been a little challenging here and there.
- We've been a little distant since my parents got divorced.
He was also, like, in Portugal, too.
That's when he broke the record.
I seen what he went through
and everything that's happened.
It all worked out for the best, I think.
But I didn't see much of him then.
So going on that trip, we could actually hang out.
[upbeat music]
♪ ♪
- It was good to see Garrett excited to be
surfing the points.
And that first day, he actually surfed a lot.
♪ ♪
- It was a good session for everybody.
Just have a good welcome in Morocco.
- Yeah. - So good, like.
You got some good ones?
- Yeah, yeah.
- It feels good.
Like, I feel like the team is all connected.
Team is all, like, having fun.
[phone line trilling] - Hi.
- No, it's nice.
- A swell in Morocco.
- No! - And it's just us.
- [fussing]
It's tough.
You know, before kids, Garrett and I
traveled everywhere together.
We were never apart.
No? You want to watch "Coco"?
And then you have three kids.
Do you want something?
Ay-yi-yi.
- [screaming]
And now it is a circus.
I'm by myself, alone.
Like, it's pure chaos.
I only could find one cleat.
- Whose are these?
- Yours.
This is all I could find.
- These aren't mine.
- It's a lot when your husband's a surfer
and you don't know how long they're going to be gone.
The role of the mother is no easy task.
[soft music]
♪ ♪
- [speaking French]
[laughs]
Oui.
Yes.
- All these canisters.
- We are going out--
I think it's 3 miles from here.
We're going to use half a tank to get out there.
- They keep saying the drive is going to be longer.
[laughs]
Could be 40 minutes.
Could be two hours.
- The big day comes, and it became apparent that we're
actually driving quite far.
And we ended up literally ratchet-strapping
petrol cans to the skis for each ski.
- Perfect. - You better-- hang on.
[chatter]
I was like, how's this going to work?
- Good morning.
We're going in the water right now.
Look what I found. Look what I found.
- That somebody's house?
- No, this is at the harbor.
Look, Fe Fe.
- Cotty's always nervous.
From the moment he wakes up till this moment,
he's, like, thinking about, you know, radio, da, da.
Do I have everything?
- We actually ended up having to, like, crane and literally,
like, picking the skis up with, like, slings
and, like, sort of, slinging it into the water.
- Thank you, Mother Earth, for all you provide us,
family, friends, new opportunities.
- Goddess of the ocean likes honey.
She likes sweet things.
- Yes. - Here you go, baby.
Thank you.
It was only a kilometer off the beach,
but it was two hours from the harbor.
[dramatic music]
♪ ♪
Two hours, wah-ah, just, like, amping, all amping.
Whoo-hoo!
And it's all jagged cliffs the whole way.
The whole way, we're looking at waves, looking at waves,
looking at waves.
♪ ♪
We get there, we pull up.
It's not that big, but it's clean, and it's--
it's just smooth, beautiful waves.
And it's magical.
It's magical.
♪ ♪
- We loaded the fuel canisters onto the RIB.
That was our, sort of, like, floating gas station.
You know what, it worked really well.
It was a proper, like, adventure.
♪ ♪
Not only did I score, but everyone got some points.
♪ ♪
It wasn't perfect, but there was a couple gems.
- Cotty is surfing incredible.
Man on fire.
He's just power surfing.
♪ ♪
- Garrett towed me to a couple good waves.
But on the big day, it wasn't quite perfect enough.
And I just think it wasn't really worth the risk for him.
- Coming into this season, my desire to get barreled
stayed with me.
But I don't feel ready to ride big waves.
I definitely love driving.
I have a lot of fun just being in the mix.
I was really there to get Titus and Cotty waves.
Titus didn't have to ride every wave,
didn't have to get the biggest wave.
Just was out there for the experience.
He didn't even have to get a wave.
But he wanted a few.
So I got him some.
He was, like, amazing.
He caught a couple bombs.
♪ ♪
- Jerome's son, Liam, just 14 years old.
And the kid just went for it.
Got a huge wave, like, such a perfect one
bowing, barreling behind him.
Made his dad so proud.
Jerome cried.
When we live those moments in the water,
when you see family,
I just think about my son and my daughter.
Can't wait to see them driving a ski for me
or getting some waves with me.
- The responsibility of putting
your child on a wave is--
it's, like, so fulfilling.
But while you're putting them on and they're riding,
it's like, oh, shit, what did I do?
And then when they kick out, you're like, ah!
Ch-ch.
♪ ♪
[soft music]
♪ ♪
- Down, down. - All right, man?
- Yeah, thank you, mate.
I do appreciate it. Thanks for having us.
Do you know, there was so much power and so much speed,
I think I went the fastest I ever went on my board today.
Another unicorn, you know?
It's like, how many places in the world are like this?
- That was my first real surf trip with my dad.
Surfing is like my church and my playground.
It's where I go to have fun.
It's where I go to let go of all my problems.
And it's brought me and my dad a little closer together.
Something that we share, that we love.
Definitely, like, the best wave of my life.
[laughter]
- He's like, one of the best days of my life.
[laughter]
- That was sick.
- I can tell he wants me to be proud of him,
and I'm so proud of him.
I just really love having Titus around.
- The best trip of my life, for sure.
- Ah, that's it.
I know. It was incredible.
I'm so glad I went.
♪ ♪
[upbeat music]
♪ ♪
- Mama?
- Yeah?
We are going to the airport to see Dad!
- Dada!
Dada! - Dada!
♪ ♪
Where's Dad?
Where is he?
I see him.
Do you want to get out and say hi?
- Dada! - Get him!
- Dada!
♪ ♪
- How are you feeling?
- I have to say, this was the hardest
alone time I've ever had.
I think Fe, she has a lot of teeth coming in.
She hasn't, like, wanted me to put her down.
It was bad.
Yeah, it was the hardest alone ever.
What's up, Fe-Fe?
♪ ♪
- One of my favorite things about being a surfer
is how it gets me up early in the morning,
gets me up out of bed, and gets me outside so I can witness
beautiful moments like this.
All that free energy before everyone wakes up in the dark,
it's nice to be up for that.
Wow, I think I'm the first one at the slip.
This is a really big moment for me, actually.
All the jet skis are here.
Alamao's nowhere in sight.
Yeah, and, you know, I've left people waiting
around at times in life.
So I'm getting served a little bit of karma here, I guess.
[laughs]
I'm here, you know, supporting the newcomers,
helping Polly out.
I feel like I don't know anything about boards.
But I know a little bit more
just from being around Garrett.
One of the pieces to the magic formula
is, like, riding a really sharp edge almost halfway
up the board, actually.
I'm feeling the call to step into more of a leadership role.
I mean, I still got the OGs who I look up to.
But as we see, they're not always around now.
I've been gifted so much through Garrett, Alamao, Cotty,
like, just from Nazaré in general
or from the ocean that I'm really feeling
the balance coming through of, like, how can
I offer that more to people?
- Sick.
My guy. Thank you, bro.
- Big man.
- CJ's always very calm and very collected.
He's kind of like the most
soul surfer of them all, right?
- I tell you--
- OK. - [laughs]
- Pretty well.
- Nice session. - Yeah, totally.
It felt good. Good teamwork.
- I feel 100% connected everywhere these days.
Just, you know, from afar.
[soft music]
♪ ♪
Morocco was amazing.
But I'm so happy to be back here in Italy.
I've been on the beach my whole life.
And I've been chasing storms my whole life.
I wanted to stop here in Italy and only
do one- to two-day trips.
That would be a perfect world.
[chatter]
- Since I met Garrett, we've only had
one Thanksgiving in America.
But this year, it feels more homey than usual.
I'm super happy about our choice to move to Italy.
Like, this is the most cohesive family
time we've had in our entire life since we've had children.
This is the first time we've really been a tight unit.
We've all made close friends.
All of our emotional needs are being met.
- Buon appetito.
- So happy.
I think the happiest I've ever been in my life.
It's for real.
Community, children.
I'm just happy.
- Oh!
- Soccer.
- Well, you are my thing.
Somehow I can block the chaos out.
No, thanks for bringing us here.
I really like it here.
I'm happy.
- I love you.
- I'm going to get a plate.
[soft music]
♪ ♪
- After Morocco, I was feeling that I
want to be back in Brazil.
I was putting the most time I can at home with my family
just to, whenever I leave, I can leave with full love
and do my best, you know?
[speaking Portuguese]
It is a tough situation.
But at the same time, I cannot forget my career.
And I need to make happen.
You know, like, I need to work.
I need to work 24/7 to make happen.
- [speaking Portuguese]
- Aww. - Aww.
- [speaking Portuguese]
♪ ♪
- We went to the Alps
with Justine and do a bit of snowboarding.
And we've kind of had a couple of days to, sort of, relax,
I guess.
And that was good.
It really put my nerves at ease.
And, yeah, it was good fun.
You do feel like you've always got to keep moving
or keep flying all over the world.
You know, sometimes you just got to slow down and enjoy it.
But sometimes it's just hard to plan in advance.
You know, like, there'll always be a swell, always.
- Andrew's leaving tomorrow.
- I'm sorry?
- Andrew's leaving tomorrow.
["O Come, All Ye Faithful" playing]
[chatter]
- Whoa!
- We got new snowboards for everybody.
And we are going snowboarding tomorrow.
- What is it? - Barrel, look at your board.
- Let's see you ride it, B.
Do you like it? - Yeah.
- Merry Christmas.
- Whoa.
Holy shit.
Yeah, that swell is huge.
Bonkers, like, beyond.
That's probably going to accelerate
and just be some of the biggest waves ever at Mavs.
If it wasn't Christmas, I'd be coming.
I'd drive-- I'd go to drive you.
I wish I could be with you guys.
I'll be there.
I got 50 more years of this.
So I'll be there on the next-- next one.
- Yeah.
OK. I'll let you know.
- OK, bye. - Thank you.
- Bye.
Cotty's going to Mavericks.
Big, big swell.
- It'd be fun to drive and maybe catch a wave or two.
Yeah, I wouldn't mind being there.
[yawns]
But I'm much--
I'm happy right here.
[chatter]
[soft music]
♪ ♪
- I believe we all come to these points
where we ask ourselves this question
of, what matters to us?
Where are we going to find our happiness,
our purpose, our meaning?
[soft music]
♪ ♪
Maybe we're a little out of congruence.
We're not meant to be stuck in anyone's spot.
We're meant to grow and continue evolving,
like the water cycle, like the waves coming in.
We get to choose which waves we ride.
We get to choose where we put our attention, where we
invest our time in our life.
♪ ♪
And we can be on a path of mind and contemplation
or pursuing our career.
- 5.8 meters at 18 seconds.
That's a huge, huge, huge swell.
- Or we can be the path of the heart
and of building family
and holding on to gratitude
and appreciation in our lives.
♪ ♪
We can also be on the path of flying free and disappearing
off into the ocean.
♪ ♪
So there's endless channels
and directions that we could take.
And that's what makes it so special,
is that nobody knows what each person's going to do.
It's up to us.
We choose the story moving forward.
♪ ♪
[bright tone]