1 00:00:06,208 --> 00:00:08,916 [water bubbling] 2 00:00:10,625 --> 00:00:12,333 [David] I'm a journalist from New Zealand 3 00:00:12,833 --> 00:00:15,958 investigating dark tourist hot spots around the world. 4 00:00:16,458 --> 00:00:19,666 Places made famous by death and disaster. 5 00:00:20,791 --> 00:00:22,916 So, it seems quite weird I'm at a beach, 6 00:00:24,333 --> 00:00:25,875 sand and suntans 7 00:00:26,375 --> 00:00:30,375 and me with a center-parting and some rather attractive goggles. 8 00:00:30,458 --> 00:00:31,750 [whistle blowing] 9 00:00:32,625 --> 00:00:34,791 But this is no normal beach. 10 00:00:35,125 --> 00:00:36,000 Hey. 11 00:00:36,916 --> 00:00:38,500 -[David] Give you that? -[man] Give me this. 12 00:00:39,500 --> 00:00:41,791 -Will we--? -No, we are going to police station now. 13 00:00:42,750 --> 00:00:43,916 -Police station? -Yes. 14 00:00:45,250 --> 00:00:48,125 [David] And this is no normal holiday. 15 00:00:49,541 --> 00:00:53,583 On this trip I’m traveling around Europe’s Dark Tourist hot spots. 16 00:00:53,833 --> 00:00:56,666 In the Mediterranean holiday island of Cyprus I go undercover to break into a forbidden city. 17 00:00:59,666 --> 00:01:01,791 What if we went at night when no one can see us? 18 00:01:01,875 --> 00:01:03,041 You might get shot. 19 00:01:03,541 --> 00:01:06,458 [David] In the UK I go drinking with Nazis. 20 00:01:06,541 --> 00:01:08,125 We’re the bad guys, the very bad guys 21 00:01:08,708 --> 00:01:12,041 And I visit the world’s most disturbing museum. 22 00:01:12,125 --> 00:01:15,375 -You realize this is quite odd. -Why did you come in and see it? 23 00:01:16,125 --> 00:01:17,875 [man] You didn’t have to come and see it. 24 00:01:18,458 --> 00:01:23,208 [David] I'm David Farrier, and this trip is stranger than I’d ever expected. 25 00:01:24,125 --> 00:01:26,125 [theme music playing] 26 00:01:40,083 --> 00:01:43,250 [music ends] 27 00:01:46,000 --> 00:01:49,000 [David] I start my journey in the English countryside, 28 00:01:49,125 --> 00:01:51,166 30 miles southeast of London 29 00:01:51,291 --> 00:01:53,291 in the small town of Paddock Wood. 30 00:02:07,375 --> 00:02:08,333 [man] Thank you! 31 00:02:09,541 --> 00:02:12,958 [David] They say war is hell, but not for this lot. 32 00:02:13,291 --> 00:02:16,500 For many British, it’s a dark tourist vacation... 33 00:02:16,833 --> 00:02:18,291 in their own backyard. 34 00:02:20,958 --> 00:02:24,916 I’m on a farm in Kent, at what I’d call a dark tourist festival. 35 00:02:25,625 --> 00:02:27,708 Billed as the Glastonbury of war, 36 00:02:27,791 --> 00:02:30,541 this is the world’s biggest military reenactment. 37 00:02:32,291 --> 00:02:35,833 Eighty thousand dark tourists come here every year 38 00:02:36,333 --> 00:02:38,833 to pretend to be soldiers from different wars, 39 00:02:39,000 --> 00:02:41,000 different sides, and different times. 40 00:02:42,500 --> 00:02:43,750 They don’t just come to watch. 41 00:02:43,833 --> 00:02:47,083 Many take a week off work just to hang out in the mud. 42 00:02:48,041 --> 00:02:49,708 I don’t understand the appeal, 43 00:02:50,041 --> 00:02:51,625 but the best way to figure it out 44 00:02:51,750 --> 00:02:53,791 is to get a little dirty myself. 45 00:02:54,291 --> 00:02:55,916 I've enlisted as a soldier 46 00:02:56,000 --> 00:02:59,125 to take part in a full scale mock battle. 47 00:02:59,208 --> 00:03:00,833 -[David] Hello. -[man shouts back] 48 00:03:00,958 --> 00:03:02,041 [David] Is this To Hell And Back? 49 00:03:02,125 --> 00:03:05,583 I’ve been assigned to a company called To Hell and Back. 50 00:03:05,916 --> 00:03:09,750 They’re a bunch of Brits pretending to be Americans in World War II. 51 00:03:09,833 --> 00:03:12,166 Lose the pink shorts before the battle now, bruv. 52 00:03:12,583 --> 00:03:13,750 Yeah, I'll think about it. 53 00:03:15,541 --> 00:03:18,375 [David] My dress sense has pegged me as an outsider. 54 00:03:19,333 --> 00:03:21,708 I'm hoping Dan, an ex-British soldier 55 00:03:21,791 --> 00:03:24,583 and the man charged with seeing me through all this, 56 00:03:24,958 --> 00:03:27,000 takes me a little more seriously. 57 00:03:27,541 --> 00:03:29,875 [David] What am I going to be dressed as? Who am I going to be? 58 00:03:29,958 --> 00:03:32,750 It's a lovely cerise color that we've got. 59 00:03:32,833 --> 00:03:34,500 Yeah, off the shoulder. 60 00:03:35,750 --> 00:03:38,666 -No, no. 101st Airborne. -Okay. 61 00:03:39,250 --> 00:03:41,333 Who are we going to be battling when we go in? 62 00:03:41,416 --> 00:03:43,708 You'll be battling against the SBG, 63 00:03:43,791 --> 00:03:45,083 that's the Second Battle Group. 64 00:03:45,208 --> 00:03:46,375 -Okay. -Germans. 65 00:03:46,958 --> 00:03:49,750 -So, we'll be taking on the Nazis. -I mean, obviously you don't 66 00:03:49,833 --> 00:03:52,583 want to get involved with SS stuff and all that crap. 67 00:03:52,666 --> 00:03:54,041 It's just German soldiers. 68 00:03:54,125 --> 00:03:55,041 Okay. 69 00:03:55,708 --> 00:03:57,458 [shouting orders in German] 70 00:03:57,958 --> 00:04:02,041 [David] This is my first brush with the politics of war reenactment. 71 00:04:02,625 --> 00:04:06,541 Dan emphasizes the difference between the Nazi political party 72 00:04:06,875 --> 00:04:09,250 versus the German people and their army. 73 00:04:09,916 --> 00:04:15,083 So, it seems I shouldn’t use the word “Nazis”, but instead say “Germans”. 74 00:04:15,541 --> 00:04:19,500 It’s a pretty big swastika-bearing elephant in the room. 75 00:04:20,750 --> 00:04:24,166 Having established the correct etiquette for referring to the enemy, 76 00:04:24,541 --> 00:04:26,833 it's time to bond with my own side. 77 00:04:27,541 --> 00:04:28,708 Out of my pink shorts, 78 00:04:28,833 --> 00:04:30,875 I’m hoping my fellow grunts will explain 79 00:04:30,958 --> 00:04:33,291 the attraction of sitting in a muddy hole. 80 00:04:33,375 --> 00:04:34,875 [David] I’m dressed more appropriately. 81 00:04:35,250 --> 00:04:37,375 -[woman] Come join us, mate. -[David] It's quite-- 82 00:04:37,458 --> 00:04:39,958 It's quite weird how you can't have cell phones or anything, 83 00:04:40,041 --> 00:04:41,916 you're just kind of living this for the weekend. -[man] Yes. -[David] It's raining, we're in a hole. 84 00:04:44,000 --> 00:04:45,708 -[woman] Yep. -And this is fun? 85 00:04:46,250 --> 00:04:47,291 -Yeah. -This is-- 86 00:04:47,375 --> 00:04:49,541 The whole running around shooting people thing, yeah, 87 00:04:49,625 --> 00:04:50,458 it's not too bad. 88 00:04:50,541 --> 00:04:52,625 That's all we're waiting for, really, the battle. 89 00:04:52,708 --> 00:04:54,750 We'll get to that in time. 90 00:04:54,833 --> 00:04:55,750 We won’t jump the gun. 91 00:04:55,958 --> 00:04:58,666 But you realize, this is a strange way to spend a weekend. 92 00:04:58,750 --> 00:05:01,791 [David] Everyone is preparing for the big battle tomorrow 93 00:05:01,916 --> 00:05:04,125 where I’ll get to kill some Germans. 94 00:05:06,958 --> 00:05:09,375 I agree to undergo a bit of extra training. 95 00:05:10,000 --> 00:05:12,625 This is the “fun” they saved up their holidays for. 96 00:05:13,125 --> 00:05:16,458 I think it's probably best you can either sit in the middle, David... 97 00:05:16,541 --> 00:05:18,250 -Yep. -...you know, like the girls do. 98 00:05:18,333 --> 00:05:20,041 -[laughs] -What? All right. 99 00:05:20,625 --> 00:05:22,291 Let's have a bit of a cheer for him. 100 00:05:23,666 --> 00:05:25,125 Go! Go! Go! 101 00:05:25,708 --> 00:05:27,916 -[man 1] Keep going, come on! -[man 2] Good job! 102 00:05:28,041 --> 00:05:30,541 -Push on! Go! -Go, go! Come on! 103 00:05:31,666 --> 00:05:33,416 [man shouts] Roll over! Roll over! 104 00:05:33,500 --> 00:05:35,583 Go for the front line. Just there! 105 00:05:41,000 --> 00:05:43,125 His face is a bit clean. Go again. 106 00:05:45,750 --> 00:05:47,333 -There you go. -[scattered applause] 107 00:05:47,541 --> 00:05:48,375 Thanks, guys. 108 00:05:49,458 --> 00:05:51,791 [David] Fun had, I’m a muddy mess. 109 00:05:52,333 --> 00:05:54,416 I guess they’d say this is authentic. 110 00:05:55,041 --> 00:05:57,125 And nature helps out with a downpour, 111 00:05:57,208 --> 00:06:01,416 so that I can fully experience the proper degree of wartime misery. 112 00:06:02,291 --> 00:06:03,791 [man chuckles] 113 00:06:05,666 --> 00:06:07,083 [David] There are no showers, 114 00:06:07,416 --> 00:06:09,083 so I head to the canteen to warm up, 115 00:06:09,500 --> 00:06:11,416 where I notice the Nazis... 116 00:06:12,000 --> 00:06:14,333 the Germans are serving up the food. 117 00:06:16,333 --> 00:06:18,625 Is it normal to have the Germans 118 00:06:18,708 --> 00:06:20,625 cooking for the Americans in this scenario? 119 00:06:21,291 --> 00:06:22,708 They’re not Germans, we’re not Americans. 120 00:06:22,791 --> 00:06:23,625 We’re all people. 121 00:06:24,125 --> 00:06:26,541 Just cause we’re in a uniform doesn’t mean they’re not our friends. 122 00:06:27,291 --> 00:06:28,708 We’re not “at war” any more. 123 00:06:28,958 --> 00:06:30,083 You know, it’s Hollywood. 124 00:06:30,208 --> 00:06:32,458 Everybody’s cross dressing, play dressing. 125 00:06:32,541 --> 00:06:34,500 It’s just...  it’s play time, isn't it? 126 00:06:35,041 --> 00:06:35,916 Play time. 127 00:06:36,500 --> 00:06:37,750 [David] Thank you so much. 128 00:06:37,833 --> 00:06:40,083 [David] With a hot plate of German grub, 129 00:06:40,166 --> 00:06:42,166 I head back to my battle buddies 130 00:06:42,250 --> 00:06:46,208 to try and get to the bottom of the politics around the Nazis. 131 00:06:46,875 --> 00:06:47,833 [David] It’s interesting, 132 00:06:47,916 --> 00:06:49,375 because obviously we're dealing with history 133 00:06:49,458 --> 00:06:50,833 and we're role playing, 134 00:06:50,916 --> 00:06:53,291 and so you've gotta have both sides. 135 00:06:53,375 --> 00:06:56,000 -[man] You gotta understand-- -Because no one wants to be a Nazi though. 136 00:06:56,083 --> 00:06:58,208 [man] This is the subject that everybody tries 137 00:06:58,291 --> 00:07:00,125 to stay away from, just in case. 138 00:07:00,625 --> 00:07:02,166 It can be interpreted in a way that 139 00:07:02,250 --> 00:07:03,125 causes offense to others, which you don't want. 140 00:07:04,666 --> 00:07:06,875 [David] To me it’s a bit of a catch-22. 141 00:07:07,750 --> 00:07:10,333 They want all this to be as authentic as possible, 142 00:07:10,416 --> 00:07:13,916 but they have to avoid the inconvenient parts of history. 143 00:07:14,000 --> 00:07:16,333 So, we're meant to be Americans, 144 00:07:16,416 --> 00:07:19,125 we’re being cooked for by Nazis. 145 00:07:19,208 --> 00:07:21,625 -[man] They're Germans -You're eating some Italian... Germans. 146 00:07:22,416 --> 00:07:23,833 You're eating Italian pizza. 147 00:07:24,583 --> 00:07:26,708 [David] It all makes sense. Just normal. 148 00:07:33,041 --> 00:07:35,250 [David] The drinking goes on into the night, 149 00:07:35,833 --> 00:07:38,708 and I don't want to use the unmentionable word, 150 00:07:38,791 --> 00:07:41,875 but there’s two Dutchmen in SS uniforms. 151 00:07:42,500 --> 00:07:46,333 Surely no one can deny these guys are Nazis? 152 00:07:47,125 --> 00:07:51,208 The SS played a major role in some of the worst humanitarian crimes 153 00:07:51,291 --> 00:07:52,625 during World War II. 154 00:07:53,291 --> 00:07:56,250 Particularly, the genocide of six million Jews. 155 00:07:57,041 --> 00:08:00,333 It’s illegal to even wear SS uniforms in Germany. 156 00:08:01,250 --> 00:08:02,458 And yet here they are, 157 00:08:02,541 --> 00:08:06,000 smiling and drinking with everyone like it's Oktoberfest. 158 00:08:06,500 --> 00:08:07,875 And no one seems to mind. 159 00:08:08,791 --> 00:08:10,416 Do you get a lot of attention from people? 160 00:08:10,500 --> 00:08:11,541 You don't want to know. 161 00:08:11,625 --> 00:08:12,916 Because I was watching you in there, 162 00:08:13,000 --> 00:08:14,583 and there were people coming up to you. 163 00:08:14,666 --> 00:08:18,625 I don't know, I think people respond in their own way to this uniform. 164 00:08:20,041 --> 00:08:22,333 I don't know. Also the women, 165 00:08:22,791 --> 00:08:26,166 to be honest, their reactions were all positive. 166 00:08:26,916 --> 00:08:28,916 All kinds of reactions, every one was positive. 167 00:08:30,166 --> 00:08:31,916 Even... Yesterday in the bar, 168 00:08:32,000 --> 00:08:33,708 we had to take off the swastika bands 169 00:08:34,208 --> 00:08:36,291 because they said it was a political statement. 170 00:08:36,375 --> 00:08:38,625 -But you've got the swastika up here. -Yeah. 171 00:08:38,708 --> 00:08:40,041 Well... I didn't make a fuss, 172 00:08:40,125 --> 00:08:41,333 we didn't want to make a fuss about it, 173 00:08:41,416 --> 00:08:43,708 so I said, "Okay, we'll take it off, no problem." 174 00:08:43,791 --> 00:08:45,250 Well, I guess this is 175 00:08:45,833 --> 00:08:48,375 probably the one place you could dress like this. 176 00:08:48,500 --> 00:08:50,000 -Yes. -Yes. Correct. 177 00:08:50,333 --> 00:08:53,458 What would you do if you dressed like this back home? 178 00:08:53,541 --> 00:08:54,958 -I would hide. -Yep. 179 00:08:55,291 --> 00:08:56,916 Because you can't wear... 180 00:08:57,000 --> 00:08:59,125 Out of respect for all the people there, 181 00:08:59,208 --> 00:09:00,708 I wouldn't wear it at all. 182 00:09:00,791 --> 00:09:03,750 -And it's forbidden. We'd be arrested. -Yeah, forbidden. 183 00:09:03,875 --> 00:09:05,291 But we wouldn't do that. 184 00:09:05,375 --> 00:09:07,416 -It's a unique thing you can do here? -Yeah. 185 00:09:07,500 --> 00:09:10,166 Yeah. But we wouldn't there. We do not want to offend people. We don't want to propagate anything that's behind the uniform. 186 00:09:13,000 --> 00:09:14,416 -You understand? -Of course. 187 00:09:14,500 --> 00:09:15,833 I want to be clear in that. 188 00:09:16,916 --> 00:09:18,875 [David] They seem like nice guys, 189 00:09:18,958 --> 00:09:21,708 but there's a question here that I haven't figured out. 190 00:09:21,791 --> 00:09:24,000 Is it possible to reenact this stuff 191 00:09:24,083 --> 00:09:26,750 without somehow condoning the bad parts? 192 00:09:27,875 --> 00:09:30,708 Are there some things we just shouldn’t be bringing back? 193 00:09:38,291 --> 00:09:40,375 Today's the climax of the festival. 194 00:09:40,958 --> 00:09:44,291 A giant battle reenactment, where I’ll take on the Germans... 195 00:09:44,791 --> 00:09:47,458 or the Nazis, or whatever you’re meant to call them here. 196 00:09:49,166 --> 00:09:50,583 I don't know how to hold this. 197 00:09:51,000 --> 00:09:52,416 [David] Our guns are real, 198 00:09:52,500 --> 00:09:54,916 actually used during World War II. 199 00:09:55,000 --> 00:09:56,625 [man shouting] 200 00:09:57,416 --> 00:09:58,958 [David] We'll be firing blanks, 201 00:09:59,041 --> 00:10:01,583 but what if someone accidentally puts a live round in? 202 00:10:02,166 --> 00:10:04,083 What if it jams and backfires? 203 00:10:04,333 --> 00:10:06,041 [David] I feel a bit sick, I don’t know why. 204 00:10:07,125 --> 00:10:08,333 I'm nervous as hell, 205 00:10:08,416 --> 00:10:10,541 and this isn't even a real war. 206 00:10:13,916 --> 00:10:15,791 Then it just starts. [David] All right. Bloody hell. 207 00:10:19,250 --> 00:10:20,833 I guess that's how wars happen. 208 00:10:20,916 --> 00:10:22,250 No one warns you. 209 00:10:25,791 --> 00:10:27,833 It's loud, so loud. 210 00:10:28,583 --> 00:10:29,791 [David] All set. Fucking hell. 211 00:10:29,875 --> 00:10:30,958 And with sweat in my eyes 212 00:10:31,041 --> 00:10:32,833 I can’t even see who I’m shooting at. 213 00:10:33,000 --> 00:10:34,666 [gunfire] 214 00:10:35,791 --> 00:10:36,791 [man] Look out. Thistle. 215 00:10:41,041 --> 00:10:43,041 [gunfire continues] 216 00:10:43,625 --> 00:10:44,583 [David] Ow! 217 00:10:53,333 --> 00:10:55,416 [David] Everyone is completely in character now 218 00:10:55,500 --> 00:10:58,250 except maybe me. I'm just in panic. 219 00:10:58,416 --> 00:10:59,958 Watch for Jerrys in the grass. 220 00:11:03,666 --> 00:11:04,750 [David] I don't like war. 221 00:11:09,583 --> 00:11:10,833 [man] Come on, move, move! 222 00:11:10,916 --> 00:11:13,916 [David] It's only towards the end that I spot the spectators 223 00:11:14,000 --> 00:11:16,500 and remember this is all just pretend. 224 00:11:18,833 --> 00:11:19,791 [man] Don't shoot. 225 00:11:20,416 --> 00:11:23,708 [David] But some people are taking their roles very seriously. 226 00:11:23,791 --> 00:11:24,958 [man screams] 227 00:11:25,958 --> 00:11:26,916 He's dead. 228 00:11:27,333 --> 00:11:29,750 [man on P.A.] Yeah. I think that's it. 229 00:11:31,166 --> 00:11:32,458 Thank God, it's over. 230 00:11:33,250 --> 00:11:37,041 [David] It was the longest, most frantic 20 minutes of my life. 231 00:11:38,041 --> 00:11:39,458 We’ve been told we’ve won, 232 00:11:39,541 --> 00:11:40,541 but who could tell? 233 00:11:40,875 --> 00:11:42,583 My ears are still ringing. 234 00:11:43,583 --> 00:11:44,416 It was so full on. 235 00:11:44,500 --> 00:11:45,375 I got quite scared. 236 00:11:45,458 --> 00:11:46,791 I sort of forgot it wasn't real. 237 00:11:47,333 --> 00:11:49,750 -It's an adrenaline rush, isn't it? -It kicks in. 238 00:11:49,833 --> 00:11:52,083 -It's 'cause it's so bloody loud. -Yeah. 239 00:11:52,166 --> 00:11:53,041 -Yes. -You can't help it. 240 00:11:53,125 --> 00:11:55,333 Then you start thinking it's real even though it's not real. 241 00:11:55,750 --> 00:11:58,000 And this is, like, your holiday? 242 00:11:58,416 --> 00:11:59,541 -Yes. -Yes? 243 00:11:59,958 --> 00:12:00,875 It's a good laugh. 244 00:12:00,958 --> 00:12:03,666 It’s, like, why didn’t you go to a beautiful island in the Caribbean? 245 00:12:04,333 --> 00:12:07,458 Sitting down on a beach doesn’t really do it for me. 246 00:12:11,541 --> 00:12:13,958 [David] I'm glad this war is over. 247 00:12:14,041 --> 00:12:14,916 I'm exhausted. 248 00:12:15,291 --> 00:12:17,541 [man on P.A.] Thanks guys, all the reenactors, 249 00:12:17,625 --> 00:12:19,416 the vehicle drivers, owners. 250 00:12:19,500 --> 00:12:21,708 [David] But I can see why people come here 251 00:12:21,791 --> 00:12:24,708 for an immersive experience and an adrenaline rush. 252 00:12:25,625 --> 00:12:29,041 But I’m not sure that making a ghastly piece of history fun 253 00:12:29,208 --> 00:12:31,208 is the best way to understand it 254 00:12:31,291 --> 00:12:32,791 or avoid repeating it. 255 00:12:34,750 --> 00:12:37,625 It’s definitely not my idea of a holiday. 256 00:12:41,500 --> 00:12:43,166 [David] Three hours' drive west, 257 00:12:43,250 --> 00:12:45,416 and I’m 10 miles from the Welsh border 258 00:12:45,500 --> 00:12:48,750 in the middle of the most picturesque English countryside. 259 00:12:55,708 --> 00:12:57,916 What could be of any possible interest 260 00:12:58,000 --> 00:12:59,458 to a dark tourist here? But I’ve heard that tucked away 261 00:13:02,375 --> 00:13:04,500 in the middle of all this chocolate box-ness 262 00:13:04,583 --> 00:13:07,708 is the world’s most politically incorrect crime museum. 263 00:13:08,125 --> 00:13:10,958 [cars speeding] 264 00:13:14,125 --> 00:13:16,250 [David] Hidden in a 200 year-old prison, 265 00:13:16,333 --> 00:13:19,333 the museum’s collections are described as disturbing, 266 00:13:19,416 --> 00:13:22,083 gruesome, and deeply offensive. 267 00:13:26,958 --> 00:13:28,875 I want to find out who would create 268 00:13:28,958 --> 00:13:30,708 such an upsetting collection. 269 00:13:31,333 --> 00:13:33,166 And is the purpose education 270 00:13:33,250 --> 00:13:35,166 or just plain shock value? 271 00:13:36,458 --> 00:13:37,500 Andy, I'm David. 272 00:13:38,083 --> 00:13:40,083 -David. You okay? -[David] Nice to meet you, sir. 273 00:13:40,208 --> 00:13:42,875 -I'm good. This place is impressive. -Different. 274 00:13:42,958 --> 00:13:44,625 It's such an unusual thing to have 275 00:13:44,708 --> 00:13:46,583 in this sleepy, little, cute town. 276 00:13:46,666 --> 00:13:48,500 Is it famous for anything else besides this? 277 00:13:48,583 --> 00:13:50,291 I keep seeing this on signs, what else-- 278 00:13:50,375 --> 00:13:53,083 Well, I don't think we're famous, I think we're infamous. 279 00:13:53,166 --> 00:13:54,666 What's the main theme you've got going on, 280 00:13:54,750 --> 00:13:56,291 'cause I see a lot of different things? 281 00:13:56,375 --> 00:13:57,666 Where good and evil collide. 282 00:13:57,750 --> 00:13:59,000 That's it in a nutshell. 283 00:13:59,291 --> 00:14:02,708 So, it’s a very divisive collection. 284 00:14:02,791 --> 00:14:06,083 Every bit of exhibit material is... 285 00:14:06,166 --> 00:14:08,833 is controversial in some shape or form. 286 00:14:08,916 --> 00:14:10,291 [David] And it's all from your passions? 287 00:14:10,375 --> 00:14:12,250 It's everything that you are passionate about? 288 00:14:12,333 --> 00:14:14,083 My madness, I suppose, yeah. 289 00:14:15,916 --> 00:14:17,750 [David] I'm totally intrigued 290 00:14:18,416 --> 00:14:19,875 and wonder which exhibits 291 00:14:19,958 --> 00:14:23,208 require such explicit warning signs at the front door. 292 00:14:23,958 --> 00:14:25,625 But Andy doesn't waste any time 293 00:14:25,708 --> 00:14:27,833 getting into the questionable stuff. 294 00:14:31,500 --> 00:14:33,583 I mean, how do you come upon something like this? 295 00:14:33,666 --> 00:14:35,916 -I picked this up in a model shop. -Right. 296 00:14:36,000 --> 00:14:37,666 You know, I probably don't present it 297 00:14:37,750 --> 00:14:39,791 in a way a lot of people want it presented, 298 00:14:39,875 --> 00:14:42,208 'cause that's the way I am, but the fact is, 299 00:14:42,375 --> 00:14:44,458 you know, poor little black children 300 00:14:44,541 --> 00:14:46,625 and black people were lynched 301 00:14:46,708 --> 00:14:48,291 by the Ku Klux Klan. 302 00:14:48,708 --> 00:14:49,666 And as you can see, 303 00:14:49,750 --> 00:14:50,666 I've put them all together. 304 00:14:51,583 --> 00:14:52,500 Wow. 305 00:14:52,750 --> 00:14:54,791 [David] To be honest, I'm just so gobsmacked 306 00:14:54,875 --> 00:14:56,583 I don’t know what to say. 307 00:14:57,083 --> 00:14:59,458 It’s controversial, that’s for sure. 308 00:14:59,750 --> 00:15:01,375 But then you see the Golliwogs 309 00:15:01,458 --> 00:15:02,791 with the Ku Klux Klan. 310 00:15:02,875 --> 00:15:04,416 The Ku Klux Klan would obviously 311 00:15:04,500 --> 00:15:06,250 be a bit annoyed by the fact that 312 00:15:06,333 --> 00:15:08,583 they're seen to be playing with Golliwogs. 313 00:15:08,666 --> 00:15:10,333 A lot of black people want to see it, 314 00:15:10,416 --> 00:15:12,291 because that’s part of their history. 315 00:15:12,375 --> 00:15:13,916 [David] It's confronting isn’t it? 316 00:15:14,083 --> 00:15:15,208 It is confronting. 317 00:15:17,083 --> 00:15:19,208 [David] I'm not sure that Andy has presented 318 00:15:19,291 --> 00:15:20,958 this part of history accurately. 319 00:15:21,041 --> 00:15:23,750 Is he genuinely trying to educate people 320 00:15:23,833 --> 00:15:25,250 or just shock them? 321 00:15:30,416 --> 00:15:34,250 The whole jail is packed wall to ceiling with stuff, 322 00:15:34,333 --> 00:15:35,958 in no discernible order. 323 00:15:37,250 --> 00:15:40,875 And things get even darker when Andy shows me the Nazi room. 324 00:15:41,416 --> 00:15:43,500 [Andy] You've got a lampshade made out of human skin. 325 00:15:44,041 --> 00:15:48,541 [David] This distressing item is part of Andy’s concentration camp exhibit. 326 00:15:48,625 --> 00:15:50,041 [Andy] I had that tested, 327 00:15:50,125 --> 00:15:52,625 and it is actual human skin. 328 00:15:55,291 --> 00:15:56,833 [David] It’s heavy stuff, isn't it? 329 00:15:56,916 --> 00:15:58,958 It just seems insane that people would 330 00:15:59,041 --> 00:16:01,458 actually pull skin off the back of people 331 00:16:01,541 --> 00:16:03,458 and have it made into lampshades. 332 00:16:05,125 --> 00:16:07,000 [David] The lampshade is insane, 333 00:16:07,083 --> 00:16:09,166 but it seems just as bad for Andy 334 00:16:09,250 --> 00:16:11,708 to acquire it and put it on display. 335 00:16:12,208 --> 00:16:14,333 This sometimes upsets people, 336 00:16:14,416 --> 00:16:18,083 but you've got these dioramas here, which we've put together. 337 00:16:19,166 --> 00:16:20,583 That's a death camp scene. 338 00:16:20,750 --> 00:16:23,166 -And you've made these up yourself? -I made these up. 339 00:16:23,666 --> 00:16:25,458 You've got a scene there, which again, 340 00:16:25,541 --> 00:16:27,500 people say, "Well, that's disgusting." 341 00:16:27,583 --> 00:16:30,125 This is, if you like, it's a rape scene. 342 00:16:30,750 --> 00:16:34,750 This is a typical example of, say, Auschwitz. 343 00:16:35,333 --> 00:16:38,666 The Nazi death camp officers were raping, 344 00:16:38,750 --> 00:16:40,708 you know, Jewish ladies... 345 00:16:41,416 --> 00:16:42,291 and it happened. 346 00:16:42,875 --> 00:16:47,541 I've definitely never seen a diorama like it, put it that way. 347 00:16:47,625 --> 00:16:49,875 And you won't see it anywhere else either, because-- 348 00:16:49,958 --> 00:16:52,750 -[David] No I don't think I will. -[Andy] I prefer it to be hard-hitting 349 00:16:52,833 --> 00:16:56,500 and... the element of truth and fact is there. 350 00:16:57,000 --> 00:17:00,500 I can definitely see how people could find this offensive. 351 00:17:00,833 --> 00:17:03,500 'Cause it's creative license as well, isn't it? 352 00:17:04,125 --> 00:17:05,541 I mean, you've made this. 353 00:17:06,625 --> 00:17:07,708 But it happened. 354 00:17:09,250 --> 00:17:11,083 [David] But some of this didn't happen. 355 00:17:11,541 --> 00:17:14,958 As far as I know, Michael Jackson was never in Nazi Germany, 356 00:17:15,291 --> 00:17:17,291 let alone a concentration camp. 357 00:17:18,375 --> 00:17:20,166 He may be recording history, 358 00:17:20,250 --> 00:17:22,958 but he’s clearly making some of it up. 359 00:17:25,416 --> 00:17:28,958 As I wander through corridor after corridor, 360 00:17:29,041 --> 00:17:33,041 I wonder if Andy’s soft spot for serial killers might provide a clue 361 00:17:33,125 --> 00:17:36,333 as to why he spends so much time and money on this collection. 362 00:17:37,875 --> 00:17:41,333 The West Murders were the most notorious in Britain’s history. 363 00:17:42,500 --> 00:17:46,875 A total of 12 bodies were discovered buried in and around their house 364 00:17:47,166 --> 00:17:50,500 when the killer couple were finally arrested in 1994. 365 00:17:52,125 --> 00:17:56,333 And somehow Andy got his hands on souvenirs from their place. 366 00:17:57,375 --> 00:17:59,083 How does he get hold of this stuff? 367 00:17:59,458 --> 00:18:01,333 You broke into the house or you-- 368 00:18:01,416 --> 00:18:04,583 No, I didn't break in. I was given access. 369 00:18:06,416 --> 00:18:08,916 -Again, I can't... -Give me something. 370 00:18:09,458 --> 00:18:11,166 No. Again, I can’t. 371 00:18:11,250 --> 00:18:14,416 It's a subject matter I'm not able to talk about. 372 00:18:15,708 --> 00:18:18,791 [David] For a man so proud of his collectibles, 373 00:18:18,875 --> 00:18:22,583 Andy isn’t keen on letting on how he acquired any of this stuff. 374 00:18:23,083 --> 00:18:25,166 I mean, is any of it even real? 375 00:18:26,708 --> 00:18:28,458 Then, seemingly out of nowhere, 376 00:18:28,541 --> 00:18:31,000 he tells me someone has turned up today 377 00:18:31,083 --> 00:18:34,666 claiming to have a tie actually worn by Fred West. 378 00:18:34,750 --> 00:18:37,125 [Andy] It's kind of amazing that on the day we come to meet you 379 00:18:37,208 --> 00:18:38,416 someone calls up with... 380 00:18:40,500 --> 00:18:42,583 West's tie, you know? 381 00:18:42,666 --> 00:18:46,250 [David] Andy says he thinks the tie was probably used by West 382 00:18:46,333 --> 00:18:48,458 to strangle some of his victims. 383 00:18:48,916 --> 00:18:51,125 Where did you find the tie? Your grandmother's house? 384 00:18:51,208 --> 00:18:53,125 Grandmother's house, yeah, with the paper and the cutout. 385 00:18:53,750 --> 00:18:57,166 How would you figure out if that's the tie or it's just... 386 00:18:57,541 --> 00:18:59,916 your grandma's gone and seen a similar one and bought it? 387 00:19:00,000 --> 00:19:01,125 -[man] Yeah. -Age-wise, 388 00:19:01,208 --> 00:19:04,291 it's probably worth just smelling the sort of musty... 389 00:19:05,708 --> 00:19:07,208 essence of that tie. 390 00:19:07,333 --> 00:19:09,666 It does smell musty, it smells old. 391 00:19:09,750 --> 00:19:11,250 [Andy] Yeah, it's certainly aged. 392 00:19:11,333 --> 00:19:13,916 I'm convinced it's around that period there. 393 00:19:14,041 --> 00:19:16,041 In my mind, that's Fred West's tie, 394 00:19:16,125 --> 00:19:17,583 and you just sniffed that tie. 395 00:19:18,041 --> 00:19:20,291 -How would you feel knowing that... -Pleasant thought. 396 00:19:20,791 --> 00:19:23,458 ..that man was wearing that tie? 397 00:19:24,541 --> 00:19:26,041 Yeah, it's a strange thing, 398 00:19:26,125 --> 00:19:28,291 but just, like, a normal day for you. 399 00:19:28,666 --> 00:19:31,083 -Right? -[Andy] A normal day in the office. 400 00:19:32,625 --> 00:19:36,250 [David] I don’t think a smell test is particularly scientific 401 00:19:36,333 --> 00:19:38,250 and I’m dubious of the story. 402 00:19:39,125 --> 00:19:42,625 But Andy tells me before this new artifact ends up in the museum 403 00:19:42,750 --> 00:19:44,375 he'll get it DNA tested. 404 00:19:45,000 --> 00:19:47,416 Where do you get his DNA from? 405 00:19:48,083 --> 00:19:53,250 It's just some of the people that I deal with privately 406 00:19:53,333 --> 00:19:56,625 that help on certain cloth material. 407 00:19:57,041 --> 00:20:00,125 So, you can't say where you get his DNA from? 408 00:20:00,208 --> 00:20:03,791 I would never disclose any inner circle privileges. 409 00:20:04,041 --> 00:20:06,833 'Cause when you talk about the inner circle, it sounds, like, very... 410 00:20:07,583 --> 00:20:09,791 I don't know whether that's legit or not. 411 00:20:10,583 --> 00:20:14,916 What's the point in trying to be deceitful if you own or run a museum? 412 00:20:15,000 --> 00:20:17,875 What's the point of trying to fake an acquisition? 413 00:20:19,125 --> 00:20:20,041 No point. 414 00:20:20,208 --> 00:20:22,250 To get people in the door to the museum. 415 00:20:26,541 --> 00:20:27,708 [David] Sensing my doubt, 416 00:20:27,791 --> 00:20:31,791 Andy’s now determined to prove that he and his museum are genuine 417 00:20:32,208 --> 00:20:35,875 by showing me how far his inner circle extends. 418 00:20:35,958 --> 00:20:37,208 [cackling] 419 00:20:37,541 --> 00:20:39,291 Enter Charles Bronson, 420 00:20:39,375 --> 00:20:42,166 Britain's most notorious and violent prisoner. 421 00:20:42,541 --> 00:20:44,583 He's even had this movie made about him. 422 00:20:46,041 --> 00:20:49,083 Bronson’s been behind bars for over 40 years, 423 00:20:49,583 --> 00:20:51,791 thirty-seven of those in solitary confinement. 424 00:20:53,833 --> 00:20:56,500 His crimes include armed robbery, assault, 425 00:20:57,000 --> 00:20:58,750 and strangling a prison warden. 426 00:20:59,500 --> 00:21:02,375 And Andy says the two of them go way back. 427 00:21:04,958 --> 00:21:07,208 Is that you with Bronson up there? 428 00:21:07,291 --> 00:21:10,958 Yeah, that was when I went to his wedding. 429 00:21:11,041 --> 00:21:13,583 Are you friends with him through the collecting? 430 00:21:14,166 --> 00:21:17,958 [Andy] Well, he's very proud to have his artwork on display here, 431 00:21:18,041 --> 00:21:21,250 and, you know, it's gonna stay here. 432 00:21:21,833 --> 00:21:22,958 -[David] You first. -[Paula] Thank you. 433 00:21:23,041 --> 00:21:25,375 [David] On a mission to prove his legitimacy, 434 00:21:25,458 --> 00:21:29,083 Andy’s invited Bronson’s latest fiancée, Paula, 435 00:21:29,166 --> 00:21:30,583 to come and meet us at the jail. 436 00:21:31,708 --> 00:21:34,750 [David] I believe you're in love with this man, for whatever reason, but you want to live with someone who is known 437 00:21:37,958 --> 00:21:40,375 -for becoming unhinged at different times. -I am. 438 00:21:40,458 --> 00:21:43,208 But that’s a real practical worry. 439 00:21:43,291 --> 00:21:45,375 Well, it doesn’t worry me because he... 440 00:21:45,458 --> 00:21:46,416 Charlie’s old school, 441 00:21:46,500 --> 00:21:47,791 he’s never hurt a woman-- 442 00:21:47,875 --> 00:21:51,125 You know, he’d never dream of hurting me. 443 00:21:51,208 --> 00:21:55,750 Are you worried about, like, that you have to consummate this relationship, you know? 444 00:21:55,833 --> 00:21:56,875 When he gets out, 445 00:21:56,958 --> 00:21:58,875 straight to the hotel room, 446 00:21:58,958 --> 00:22:01,666 I bet you I finish him off, and he has a heart attack. 447 00:22:02,541 --> 00:22:04,083 -Dead. -And he said, 448 00:22:04,166 --> 00:22:05,333 "Forty fucking three years. 449 00:22:05,416 --> 00:22:07,875 I get out, and you fucking kill me off in one night." 450 00:22:07,958 --> 00:22:10,083 Just imagine it. Bless him. 451 00:22:12,208 --> 00:22:14,458 [David] Paula has agreed to let me join in 452 00:22:14,541 --> 00:22:16,625 on her weekly phone call to Charles. 453 00:22:17,250 --> 00:22:20,166 The thought of talking to Britain’s most dangerous prisoner 454 00:22:20,250 --> 00:22:23,541 fills me with a crazy combination of nerves and excitement. 455 00:22:24,208 --> 00:22:26,000 -I feel a bit nervous. -Are you ready? 456 00:22:28,250 --> 00:22:29,458 Hello. 457 00:22:29,833 --> 00:22:32,333 [Bronson singing] ♪ Welcome home ♪ 458 00:22:32,708 --> 00:22:34,250 ♪ Welcome ♪ 459 00:22:34,833 --> 00:22:38,750 ♪ Come on in and close the door ♪ 460 00:22:39,333 --> 00:22:41,333 ♪ You've been gone ♪ ♪ So long ♪ 461 00:22:44,791 --> 00:22:46,166 ♪ Come on in ♪ 462 00:22:46,583 --> 00:22:48,083 And close the door 463 00:22:48,166 --> 00:22:51,166 Hey, Charlie, it's David. It's nice to talk to you. 464 00:22:51,500 --> 00:22:53,916 [Bronson] Hello, Dave, how are you, me old China? 465 00:22:54,000 --> 00:22:55,750 I'm really good. I've been a bit nervous. 466 00:22:55,833 --> 00:22:57,666 We've been here waiting for you to call, 467 00:22:57,750 --> 00:23:01,041 and I was almost getting a bit nervous about talking to you. 468 00:23:01,125 --> 00:23:04,000 [Bronson] You should never be nervous of me or Paula. 469 00:23:04,083 --> 00:23:05,666 We only eat pygmies. 470 00:23:05,750 --> 00:23:07,208 [laughter] 471 00:23:07,333 --> 00:23:11,375 Hey, Charlie, I've been talking to Paula today about how you two met, 472 00:23:11,458 --> 00:23:13,708 and how your relationship started. I was just... 473 00:23:14,083 --> 00:23:18,375 I was wondering what your first impression was of her when you met. 474 00:23:18,458 --> 00:23:20,833 -Yeah. -[Bronson] All right. I'll tell you. When I first met her, set eyes on her, 475 00:23:23,958 --> 00:23:25,000 she lit the room up. 476 00:23:25,625 --> 00:23:27,541 -Oh, That's nice. -[Bronson] Beautiful. 477 00:23:27,625 --> 00:23:29,916 As soon as I seen her, I thought, 478 00:23:30,708 --> 00:23:32,083 "I'm gonna marry her." 479 00:23:32,166 --> 00:23:34,083 She's like an angel come into my life. 480 00:23:34,166 --> 00:23:35,041 It's wonderful. 481 00:23:35,125 --> 00:23:36,958 Thank you. That's really nice of you. 482 00:23:37,041 --> 00:23:38,541 -Thank you, sweetheart. -[Bronson] It's the truth. 483 00:23:38,958 --> 00:23:41,166 Everything I hear about you paints a different image 484 00:23:41,250 --> 00:23:45,000 to what I'd known about you from reading some of the early stories. 485 00:23:45,083 --> 00:23:46,833 I mean, just talking you now, you seem 486 00:23:46,916 --> 00:23:49,458 like a really lovely, reasonable gentleman. 487 00:23:49,541 --> 00:23:52,000 [Bronson] I'm first to admit, Dave, 488 00:23:52,083 --> 00:23:55,000 I was a nasty bastard, mate. I really was. 489 00:23:55,500 --> 00:23:57,208 I was violent, horrible. 490 00:23:57,791 --> 00:24:00,958 -But every day I wake up -[Paula giggles] 491 00:24:01,291 --> 00:24:03,375 -[Bronson] I've got a smile on my face. -[Paula] Smile. 492 00:24:03,458 --> 00:24:06,500 And I'm locked up in a fucking cage. 493 00:24:07,333 --> 00:24:09,250 -[Bronson] Andy's there now? -Come here, it's me. 494 00:24:09,333 --> 00:24:14,083 -[Bronson] Me old China, how are you? -Keep behaving yourself, and... 495 00:24:14,666 --> 00:24:16,416 Yep, just stay strong. 496 00:24:16,500 --> 00:24:18,500 -What do you think about that? -Different to what I expected. 497 00:24:18,583 --> 00:24:20,250 Now that is the real Charlie. 498 00:24:21,833 --> 00:24:23,750 [David] So Andy’s proved his point. 499 00:24:23,833 --> 00:24:25,833 His inner circle is real. 500 00:24:26,458 --> 00:24:29,208 And maybe all the stuff in his museum is real, too. 501 00:24:29,708 --> 00:24:31,916 Maybe even that musty old tie. 502 00:24:33,416 --> 00:24:36,291 I’ve decided this place is all about titillation. 503 00:24:36,791 --> 00:24:39,833 Whether it’s violent criminals, serial killers, 504 00:24:39,916 --> 00:24:42,083 or just a perky pair of breasts, 505 00:24:42,166 --> 00:24:45,000 Andy is drawn to the stuff we’re not meant to be. 506 00:24:46,041 --> 00:24:49,500 I suppose you could say Andy’s a dark tourist himself. 507 00:24:50,375 --> 00:24:53,916 He’s put an incredible amount of time and money into this place, 508 00:24:55,250 --> 00:24:57,875 but I leave still not knowing why. 509 00:24:58,458 --> 00:25:02,375 I don't think you could find a collection like this anywhere else in the world. 510 00:25:02,708 --> 00:25:04,750 Maybe that's reason enough. 511 00:25:09,541 --> 00:25:13,500 After all this darkness and depravity, I feel like some R&R. 512 00:25:13,583 --> 00:25:15,583 So, like many other British people, 513 00:25:15,666 --> 00:25:18,541 I travel two thousand miles south, to the Mediterranean, 514 00:25:19,125 --> 00:25:21,000 to the island of Cyprus. 515 00:25:24,416 --> 00:25:27,333 Here it's all sun, sand, and selfies. 516 00:25:29,666 --> 00:25:32,208 The perfect paradise to relax in. 517 00:25:33,500 --> 00:25:35,833 Cyprus is a former British colony 518 00:25:35,916 --> 00:25:40,416 and has been a popular European holiday destination since the 1950s. 519 00:25:42,791 --> 00:25:46,791 But in 1974, the Turkish Army landed in Cyprus, 520 00:25:47,333 --> 00:25:51,666 and, depending on who you talk to, invaded or liberated the island. 521 00:25:52,916 --> 00:25:54,125 It was a bloody affair 522 00:25:54,250 --> 00:25:56,666 and it split the country into two parts. 523 00:25:57,250 --> 00:26:00,208 Caught in the middle was the beach resort of Famagusta, 524 00:26:00,958 --> 00:26:02,583 one of the most famous and glamorous 525 00:26:02,666 --> 00:26:05,250 holiday destinations in the Mediterranean. 526 00:26:06,416 --> 00:26:09,750 Famagusta was a favorite with the international jet set, 527 00:26:09,833 --> 00:26:11,791 but it was abandoned during the war 528 00:26:11,875 --> 00:26:13,458 and now it’s a ghost city. 529 00:26:13,958 --> 00:26:16,625 completely cut off by the Turkish Army 530 00:26:16,708 --> 00:26:18,666 and completely off limits. 531 00:26:20,541 --> 00:26:23,833 Which, of course, puts it on the dark tourist bucket list. 532 00:26:24,916 --> 00:26:28,416 I've come to Cyprus to break into the forbidden city. 533 00:26:29,041 --> 00:26:31,750 I start my journey in a cafe in the south 534 00:26:31,833 --> 00:26:34,083 with a great view of my target. 535 00:26:34,333 --> 00:26:35,916 -[David] How are you doing? -Morning. 536 00:26:36,000 --> 00:26:37,625 [David] I've come to see your lookout. 537 00:26:38,291 --> 00:26:40,250 -I hear this is the place to come. -You're welcome. 538 00:26:40,916 --> 00:26:43,625 [David] Antonis fled from his home in the ghost city, 539 00:26:43,708 --> 00:26:45,000 and has never been back. 540 00:26:45,500 --> 00:26:48,375 He built this viewpoint in 1979. 541 00:26:49,125 --> 00:26:50,500 If you go over here, 542 00:26:50,583 --> 00:26:52,375 you can see Famagusta. 543 00:26:55,458 --> 00:26:57,000 [David] Even at this distance, 544 00:26:57,083 --> 00:26:59,375 it surprises me how big it is. 545 00:27:01,125 --> 00:27:04,125 This place used to be home to 40,000 people. 546 00:27:05,458 --> 00:27:08,333 It's amazing to think that it's now completely empty 547 00:27:08,416 --> 00:27:09,791 and no one lives there. 548 00:27:10,958 --> 00:27:13,333 -It all just stretches out, doesn't it? -Yeah, yeah. 549 00:27:14,875 --> 00:27:17,791 [Antonis] So, all the town you can see is uninhabited. 550 00:27:18,291 --> 00:27:20,125 No civilians are allowed in. 551 00:27:21,708 --> 00:27:23,833 [David] Getting in is going to be a challenge. 552 00:27:24,666 --> 00:27:27,000 This is as close as I can get from here, 553 00:27:27,083 --> 00:27:28,833 and there are three military zones between me and the ghost city. 554 00:27:32,083 --> 00:27:34,875 Closest to me is the Cypriot Army zone. 555 00:27:35,458 --> 00:27:37,208 Then there's the UN buffer zone. 556 00:27:37,708 --> 00:27:41,375 Then, finally, I’ll have to cross the Turkish Army zone. 557 00:27:41,875 --> 00:27:43,875 It's funny, I read and heard about this place 558 00:27:43,958 --> 00:27:45,708 and I sort of had in the back of my mind 559 00:27:45,791 --> 00:27:47,625 that I might be able to get in somehow. 560 00:27:48,541 --> 00:27:52,458 -What would happen if I tried to go in? -You'd get stopped by the UN. 561 00:27:53,041 --> 00:27:54,541 [Antonis] If they don't see you, 562 00:27:54,750 --> 00:27:58,291 straight away you will see soldiers from the Turkish lookout post to... 563 00:27:58,833 --> 00:28:01,208 come to watch you and arrest you or interrogate you. 564 00:28:01,291 --> 00:28:03,416 What if we went at night, when no one can see us? 565 00:28:04,541 --> 00:28:06,125 They'd say it's on your risk. 566 00:28:07,333 --> 00:28:08,708 You might even get shot. 567 00:28:10,125 --> 00:28:11,583 -[David] Really? -Of course. 568 00:28:13,958 --> 00:28:15,916 [David] I didn’t come here to get killed, 569 00:28:16,000 --> 00:28:19,125 but surely there’s some way to get inside the ghost city 570 00:28:19,208 --> 00:28:21,791 without actually becoming a ghost myself. 571 00:28:25,875 --> 00:28:29,458 I’ll need to cross the border, so I’m heading to Nicosia, 572 00:28:29,541 --> 00:28:31,708 the world’s last divided capital. 573 00:28:32,500 --> 00:28:35,875 Here, Greeks and Turks live just meters apart, 574 00:28:36,000 --> 00:28:37,666 separated by a wall. 575 00:28:38,833 --> 00:28:42,500 And what better way to tackle a former war zone than on a Segway? 576 00:28:43,041 --> 00:28:46,416 Our guide Andreas is keen to demonstrate how safe they are. 577 00:28:46,916 --> 00:28:49,083 [David] Is it true the person that owns Segway 578 00:28:49,166 --> 00:28:50,458 Segwayed off a cliff? 579 00:28:50,541 --> 00:28:52,291 Is that true? Did you hear that story? 580 00:28:52,375 --> 00:28:53,666 -Yeah, it's true. -[David] It's true? 581 00:28:53,750 --> 00:28:55,583 Yeah, but it was his own fault. 582 00:28:55,666 --> 00:28:58,041 He went up on a narrow path 583 00:28:58,666 --> 00:29:01,791 of a river cliff and fell in the river. 584 00:29:01,875 --> 00:29:04,000 -Yeah, it’s a funny way to die. -Yeah, sure. 585 00:29:14,958 --> 00:29:16,375 [David] Gliding through the town, 586 00:29:16,458 --> 00:29:19,708 the old parts of Nicosia look like they are crumbling away. 587 00:29:23,375 --> 00:29:24,291 [David] Oh, you okay? 588 00:29:24,958 --> 00:29:26,458 [man] I'm sorry, I didn't see you. 589 00:29:26,541 --> 00:29:28,250 -[David] We had a crash. -[Andreas] It's okay. 590 00:29:29,000 --> 00:29:31,916 Maybe Segways aren’t as safe as Andreas says. 591 00:29:32,000 --> 00:29:34,083 -We’re all okay that’s the main thing. -Yeah, yeah. 592 00:29:34,416 --> 00:29:36,125 -Don’t worry. -I'm glad it was you, not me. 593 00:29:36,458 --> 00:29:37,833 -[David] That’s the main thing. -[Andreas] Okay. 594 00:29:39,833 --> 00:29:44,458 Back on track, we hit the UN buffer zone separating the north and the south. 595 00:29:45,500 --> 00:29:47,375 [David] Would they talk to us if we called them over? 596 00:29:47,458 --> 00:29:48,416 I don't think so. 597 00:29:48,500 --> 00:29:51,458 -No? -We're not even allowed to... 598 00:29:52,166 --> 00:29:53,000 to... 599 00:29:54,166 --> 00:29:56,791 -Are we not allowed to what? -To make a film. 600 00:29:57,083 --> 00:29:58,375 -Oh, really? -Really. 601 00:29:59,541 --> 00:30:00,375 Hello. 602 00:30:03,208 --> 00:30:04,375 Can you come over? 603 00:30:06,208 --> 00:30:07,750 Just come over for a little bit. I just want to know what they were doing. 604 00:30:14,083 --> 00:30:15,125 Hey, how are you? 605 00:30:15,250 --> 00:30:18,416 Hi, gents. I’d like to advise you that you can’t film inside the buffer zone. 606 00:30:18,500 --> 00:30:20,583 -You’ll have to-- Can't film. -We can't film? 607 00:30:20,666 --> 00:30:21,833 [David] I’ve come from New Zealand. 608 00:30:21,916 --> 00:30:23,458 I just wanted to know what you were doing. 609 00:30:23,541 --> 00:30:25,625 I can tell you, but turn your cameras the other way. 610 00:30:25,750 --> 00:30:27,916 [David] Okay, we can do that. We can sort of turn around. 611 00:30:29,458 --> 00:30:31,208 [David] The UN soldier tells me 612 00:30:31,291 --> 00:30:33,750 that the Turkish Army is a little bit touchy 613 00:30:33,833 --> 00:30:35,833 about anyone filming the buffer zone. 614 00:30:36,541 --> 00:30:39,208 That’s a Turkish observation point just over there. 615 00:30:39,708 --> 00:30:40,541 Good. 616 00:30:41,625 --> 00:30:43,875 -[Andreas] Please, everybody. -All right, single file. 617 00:30:43,958 --> 00:30:46,416 [David] It all seems a bit over the top to me 618 00:30:46,500 --> 00:30:49,208 as the invasion was over 40 years ago. 619 00:30:50,500 --> 00:30:53,000 We shift to a more deserted part of the border. 620 00:30:53,541 --> 00:30:55,125 It's like so close, but so far. 621 00:30:56,625 --> 00:31:00,125 People must sneak across just to have a little look, like, a little cheeky-- 622 00:31:00,250 --> 00:31:01,541 No, no, no. 623 00:31:01,625 --> 00:31:03,666 -[David] No one? -[Andreas] It was very dangerous. 624 00:31:03,750 --> 00:31:05,333 [David] I feel like if this was in New Zealand, 625 00:31:05,416 --> 00:31:06,541 like, we're quite cheeky, 626 00:31:06,625 --> 00:31:08,958 I think New Zealanders would just sort of sneak in 627 00:31:09,458 --> 00:31:10,500 just to see what was there. 628 00:31:10,583 --> 00:31:12,458 Because we don't like being told we can't go somewhere. 629 00:31:12,583 --> 00:31:16,208 People were shot down dead, so... 630 00:31:16,541 --> 00:31:17,916 Yeah, the whole being shot thing 631 00:31:18,000 --> 00:31:20,541 sort of takes the fun out of sneaking in. 632 00:31:21,333 --> 00:31:24,375 Yeah, I believe that if your life is in danger, 633 00:31:24,458 --> 00:31:25,500 -you see things -[distant explosion] 634 00:31:25,583 --> 00:31:26,875 from a different perspective. 635 00:31:26,958 --> 00:31:28,000 What was that? 636 00:31:29,000 --> 00:31:31,583 [Andreas] Well, is shooting something. 637 00:31:32,000 --> 00:31:33,041 Shooting something? 638 00:31:33,958 --> 00:31:35,958 It doesn't happen very often, these things. 639 00:31:36,083 --> 00:31:37,500 [explosions continue] 640 00:31:38,166 --> 00:31:40,083 [David] So, are those bullet holes up there? 641 00:31:40,458 --> 00:31:44,250 Yes. There are bullet holes everywhere around the buffer zone. 642 00:31:44,333 --> 00:31:46,333 -[explosion] -[dog barking] 643 00:31:52,708 --> 00:31:55,416 [David] Things suddenly seem a lot more serious. 644 00:32:01,625 --> 00:32:04,416 Hearing those gunshots makes me keen to understand 645 00:32:04,500 --> 00:32:06,458 what the invasion was actually like. 646 00:32:06,541 --> 00:32:08,041 -[David] Anna. -Hi. 647 00:32:08,458 --> 00:32:10,291 I'm David. It's nice to meet you. 648 00:32:10,375 --> 00:32:14,208 [David] I meet with Anna, who used to live in Famagusta before the war. 649 00:32:14,750 --> 00:32:18,041 How much warning did you get about the invasion? 650 00:32:18,666 --> 00:32:23,875 A friend comes and knocks at the door and says to my mother, 651 00:32:24,750 --> 00:32:27,791 "We have rumors that they're going to bomb Famagusta." 652 00:32:28,291 --> 00:32:29,583 [David] So it was quick? It was like... 653 00:32:29,666 --> 00:32:31,250 “It's gonna be bombed, let's go." 654 00:32:31,333 --> 00:32:33,750 "Get your act together, get into the car, we have to go." 655 00:32:34,333 --> 00:32:36,708 We left the house open. 656 00:32:37,416 --> 00:32:40,666 We left a normal house, a normal household, right? 657 00:32:40,750 --> 00:32:44,166 -Yeah, well you're gonna go back. -We're going to go back, but we never did. 658 00:32:47,625 --> 00:32:50,125 [David] Anna’s made me realize that Famagusta 659 00:32:50,208 --> 00:32:53,500 isn’t just some dark tourist dream destination. 660 00:32:53,875 --> 00:32:55,000 It was once her home. 661 00:32:55,083 --> 00:32:57,083 [Eastern music playing] 662 00:32:58,250 --> 00:33:01,958 She’s agreed to cross the border into northern Cyprus with me 663 00:33:02,291 --> 00:33:05,125 to get me even closer to the ghost city. 664 00:33:06,416 --> 00:33:10,083 But It's also the anniversary of the 1974 invasion, 665 00:33:10,458 --> 00:33:13,458 and tensions will be running at an all-time high. 666 00:33:17,750 --> 00:33:20,541 The next day we travel to the Turkish north 667 00:33:20,625 --> 00:33:22,916 in a pair of retired UN trucks. 668 00:33:23,916 --> 00:33:27,416 In past years there have been protests on the anniversary, 669 00:33:27,750 --> 00:33:31,500 and our crew would rather be doing anything else than coming with us. 670 00:33:31,583 --> 00:33:34,041 We've literally picked the worst day of the year. 671 00:33:34,500 --> 00:33:35,625 Sorry about that. 672 00:33:36,541 --> 00:33:39,041 The Turkish Republic of North Cyprus 673 00:33:39,125 --> 00:33:42,750 is only recognized by one country, and that's Turkey. 674 00:33:43,375 --> 00:33:44,541 We're on our own. 675 00:33:45,916 --> 00:33:48,208 And that's all our passports. Thank you. 676 00:33:48,625 --> 00:33:52,166 We're now cut off from the rest of the world diplomatically, 677 00:33:52,333 --> 00:33:54,583 so, I'm eager to make a good first impression. 678 00:33:54,666 --> 00:33:55,875 Busy day for you? 679 00:33:56,875 --> 00:33:57,916 Busy? Quiet. 680 00:34:00,250 --> 00:34:04,041 David here. That was the friendliest border crossing I've ever encountered. 681 00:34:16,625 --> 00:34:18,666 [David] There are Turkish symbols everywhere. 682 00:34:18,750 --> 00:34:21,000 There's no mistaking who's in charge. 683 00:34:21,500 --> 00:34:22,916 Two more big flags. 684 00:34:24,000 --> 00:34:25,791 Yeah, they're everywhere, it's crazy. 685 00:34:27,291 --> 00:34:28,916 There’s no mistaking where we are. 686 00:34:38,250 --> 00:34:41,041 [David] As the military celebrations take over the streets, 687 00:34:41,666 --> 00:34:45,333 Anna takes me above to a rooftop overlooking the the ghost city. 688 00:34:45,625 --> 00:34:46,625 Here we are. 689 00:34:47,125 --> 00:34:51,166 And on the roof, I get my first chance to see the city up close. 690 00:34:51,500 --> 00:34:53,083 It's just meters away. 691 00:34:53,500 --> 00:34:56,333 It seems incredible that so many buildings, 692 00:34:56,708 --> 00:35:00,166 hotels, apartments, shops, and homes, 693 00:35:00,250 --> 00:35:02,708 -are just empty. -This, to my eyes, 694 00:35:02,791 --> 00:35:05,458 is taking me back 43 years. 695 00:35:06,625 --> 00:35:09,041 [Anna] It's an exercise on your... 696 00:35:10,416 --> 00:35:11,750 ability to... 697 00:35:12,625 --> 00:35:13,916 to withhold pain. 698 00:35:14,833 --> 00:35:17,208 I could see you getting affected by it when you came up here. 699 00:35:18,125 --> 00:35:18,958 [Anna] Yeah. 700 00:35:27,708 --> 00:35:30,125 [David] This is the ghost city I came for, 701 00:35:30,208 --> 00:35:32,833 but I didn't expect the story that came with it. 702 00:35:42,208 --> 00:35:45,083 Things get interesting when we decide to get some shots outside. 703 00:35:45,750 --> 00:35:47,666 -[man] Turkish? -From New Zealand. 704 00:35:48,083 --> 00:35:51,958 [David] The moment we pull out our camera, local police descend on us. 705 00:35:52,791 --> 00:35:54,916 [in Turkish] Have they got permission? 706 00:35:55,333 --> 00:35:57,958 If they don’t have them, they cannot shoot. 707 00:35:58,458 --> 00:36:01,041 -[David] Yeah, we have media passes. -[man] May we look at it? 708 00:36:01,666 --> 00:36:03,541 -[David] This one here, yeah? -[man] Yeah. 709 00:36:03,625 --> 00:36:04,625 [David] Yeah, yeah. 710 00:36:05,541 --> 00:36:08,333 [David] You know things are serious when plainclothes officers 711 00:36:08,416 --> 00:36:09,666 pop up out of nowhere. 712 00:36:10,416 --> 00:36:12,000 You have the permission to... 713 00:36:12,083 --> 00:36:15,500 It is not valid for security zones. 714 00:36:15,583 --> 00:36:18,416 [David] Oh, this isn't military. All right, we've stopped, yeah. 715 00:36:20,458 --> 00:36:23,541 [David] We're detained and taken to the local police station. 716 00:36:24,125 --> 00:36:27,583 Apparently, even filming the ghost city is considered a crime. 717 00:36:28,375 --> 00:36:30,583 There are no holiday snaps here. 718 00:36:33,666 --> 00:36:37,291 After three stressful hours in an interrogation room, 719 00:36:37,375 --> 00:36:38,500 we're released. 720 00:36:39,083 --> 00:36:41,791 We're told our filming in northern Cyprus is over 721 00:36:41,875 --> 00:36:43,041 and we should leave. 722 00:36:47,041 --> 00:36:48,541 I'm not ready to give up. 723 00:36:48,625 --> 00:36:50,916 I still want to get into the city. 724 00:36:54,916 --> 00:36:56,666 Can’t see anything really, but... 725 00:36:56,750 --> 00:36:57,958 It might be stupid, 726 00:36:58,041 --> 00:37:01,875 but I’m going undercover with a $30 dollar pair of spy glasses 727 00:37:01,958 --> 00:37:05,583 to see if I can sneak into the beach next to the forbidden city. 728 00:37:07,000 --> 00:37:08,000 [David] Okay, this-- 729 00:37:09,250 --> 00:37:13,541 I get dropped off at a beach resort directly next to the ghost city. 730 00:37:16,541 --> 00:37:20,583 There are signs everywhere telling me I definitely shouldn't be filming. 731 00:37:21,875 --> 00:37:25,916 But, hey, I'm just a tourist wearing suspiciously thick glasses. 732 00:37:28,291 --> 00:37:30,041 There's a guard tower on the beach, 733 00:37:30,125 --> 00:37:32,166 so my plan is to head into the water. 734 00:37:32,666 --> 00:37:34,750 Just a travel blogger with a GoPro. 735 00:37:36,625 --> 00:37:38,333 [David] So, that is the guard tower, 736 00:37:39,250 --> 00:37:42,000 and then all the way along here is the ghost city. 737 00:37:42,750 --> 00:37:45,625 It just stretches on and on and on. 738 00:37:49,583 --> 00:37:54,125 I start swimming towards the border believing I'm now invisible, 739 00:37:54,208 --> 00:37:55,333 just another swimmer. 740 00:37:59,125 --> 00:38:00,166 [David] There's your border. 741 00:38:01,250 --> 00:38:02,750 And there’s the border, 742 00:38:02,833 --> 00:38:04,666 just some floating buoys. 743 00:38:05,125 --> 00:38:09,083 All I have to do is swim underneath and into the ghost city. 744 00:38:12,625 --> 00:38:14,375 I'm about to take the plunge. 745 00:38:14,958 --> 00:38:15,833 [whistle blows] 746 00:38:16,833 --> 00:38:17,791 [David] There's a whistle. 747 00:38:18,375 --> 00:38:21,583 It’s the Turkish Army and they’re not happy. 748 00:38:22,041 --> 00:38:23,000 All right. 749 00:38:28,833 --> 00:38:29,750 [David] Hey. 750 00:38:30,833 --> 00:38:32,250 -[man] Give me this. -[David] Give you that? 751 00:38:32,333 --> 00:38:33,208 [man] Give me this. 752 00:38:35,291 --> 00:38:37,625 -[David] We were just... -[man] We are going to police station now. 753 00:38:38,541 --> 00:38:39,750 -[David] Police station? -[man] Yes. 754 00:38:40,958 --> 00:38:43,000 [David] Are we not allowed to film? 755 00:38:44,000 --> 00:38:47,000 [man] There we go. You understand, please. 756 00:38:48,083 --> 00:38:50,041 -[man] Give me this. -[David] Oh, why is this? 757 00:38:50,125 --> 00:38:52,125 [man] Please, give me this. We are going to police station. 758 00:38:54,791 --> 00:38:57,875 [David] This was my last chance of getting into Famagusta. 759 00:38:58,541 --> 00:39:00,166 They really don't want anyone 760 00:39:00,250 --> 00:39:01,625 to see the ghost city. 761 00:39:01,708 --> 00:39:04,583 [man] I tell you, "Come here." For what? You don't listen. 762 00:39:05,000 --> 00:39:06,875 -For what? -Sorry, I don't have my glasses on. 763 00:39:06,958 --> 00:39:09,208 -[man] No glasses, huh? -[David] I don't have my glasses on. 764 00:39:10,416 --> 00:39:14,708 [crew member] Honestly, we didn't know. Okay. Sorry, we don't want any trouble. 765 00:39:14,791 --> 00:39:18,083 [David] After some fast talking, I'm allowed to leave... 766 00:39:18,166 --> 00:39:20,750 -[man] You must delete this. -[crewmember] Delete? Yeah. 767 00:39:20,833 --> 00:39:24,083 -...as long as I delete the footage. -Yeah, we can delete this. [David] We did delete the footage, but we recovered it. 768 00:39:35,750 --> 00:39:37,166 When I came to Cyprus, 769 00:39:37,250 --> 00:39:40,541 I thought getting into Famagusta would be a bit of an adventure, 770 00:39:41,083 --> 00:39:43,125 but the situation around the ghost city 771 00:39:43,208 --> 00:39:46,166 is far more complicated than I ever imagined. 772 00:39:46,916 --> 00:39:49,750 It's an ugly reminder of a violent Invasion, 773 00:39:49,833 --> 00:39:53,500 which has split a country in two for over 40 years now. 774 00:39:54,500 --> 00:39:57,583 I guess I have to accept that this particular destination