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-[switching on light]
-[David typing]
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[David] I'm a journalist from New Zealand.
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And I've always been drawn
to the weirder side of life.
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[parrot chirping]
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So I've decided to investigate
dark tourism;
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a global phenomenon
where people avoid the ordinary.
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And instead head for holidays
in war zones,
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[machine gun]
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disaster sites,
and other off-beat destinations.
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[woman screaming]
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-[David] I'm interested in the mad...
-[crowd shouting]
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[David] macabre... and morbid.
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So I'm off around the world,
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in search of the ultimate
dark tourist experiences.
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My first trip takes me
to Latin America.
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-[priest] Out, demon, out!
-[David] In Mexico City,
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I come face-to-face
with the possessed.
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It's very loud, isn't it? Very loud.
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I head down to Colombia to get as close
as I can to Pablo Escobar...
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-Hello!
-...and grill his personal hitman.
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Have you ever been to a psychologist
or something?
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Or have you been to therapy?
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[David] And I take a tour crossing
the border back into America...
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-the hard way.
-Answer me, fucker.
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[David] I'm David Farrier,
and this trip contains
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more than 80% death.
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[theme music playing]
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[David] On my first stop,
I'm down in Colombia,
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visiting the city of Medellin,
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infamous for drug lord Pablo Escobar
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and his cocaine empire.
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I'm on a narco fantasy tour
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being driven around
with a Pablo look-alike
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who's doing a shady deal
on a huge '90s walkie talkie.
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[driver] Listen,
if he doesn’t understand me clearly,
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I'll kill his mom,
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then his dad,
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and then his grandmother,
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and if his grandmother is already dead.
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I’ll dig her up and kill her again!
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[David] This is definitely one of the more
bizarre cab rides I've ever taken.
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And I'll kill his dog
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and if he doesn’t have one
I’ll buy him one
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and once he’s fallen in love with it,
I'll kill it too.
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[David] Narco-tourism is
one of the latest dark tourism trends.
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I've come here to explore the industry
that's risen from Pablo's ashes,
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and talk to the people who are profiting
from his dark past.
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Pablo's dodgy doppelganger
has dropped me off
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at the infamous neighborhood
that's named after him.
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Barrio Pablo Escobar clings to a hillside
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held together
by a makeshift labyrinth of staircases.
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Painted shrines honoring
the king of cocaine are everywhere.
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It's weird that he's seen
as a kind of local celebrity
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when you think about
all the chaos he's caused.
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Pablo Escobar entered the cocaine trade
in the 1970s,
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and by the '80s, he had turned Colombia
into the murder capital of the world,
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slaughtering thousands of people
who stood in his way.
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Pablo himself met a violent end;
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shot down on a Medellin rooftop in 1993.
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Before I start my Narco-tourism adventure,
I want to find out
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why people in Barrio Pablo Escobar
are shouting his praises.
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[cheering in Spanish]
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Kill him, One Eye!
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Kill him, my son!
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[David] As one of the poorest
and most crime-ridden neighborhoods,
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its locals have a fierce reputation,
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and there are plenty of opinions
on Pablo going around.
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What do people think
of Pablo Escobar in this area?
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He's the founder of this area.
He built most of these houses.
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I come from one of these houses. He gave
a house to my mother and grandmother.
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[local] We used to live in a dump.
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How could I not love him?
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[David] Pablo Escobar is the Robin Hood
of their hood,
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but what about the other people
of Medellin,
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the people who saw him as a villain?
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During his reign,
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he killed over 1,000 cops,
and I'm meeting up with Carlos,
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who was on the front line back then.
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I want to know how the hell
he survived those mean streets.
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-That was me when I was a cop.
-[David] This is when you were 20.
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-[ex-cop] I was in 20s.
-[David] So these were other officers.
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[David] How many of these guys
would still be alive, do you think?
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Together with the commanders,
probably five.
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-Five of them alive from those days?
-Five of them alive.
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-Yes, from those days.
-How are you alive?
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Many cops was corrupt
and was working for El Cartel de Medellin.
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But you know it’s another thing
when those guys say ‘Plata o plomo,’
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"Cash or a bullet."
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Man...
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if they can't corrupt you, they kill you.
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So you were corrupted?
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I was corrupted for Pablo Escobar.
I made good money from that guy.
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-I never met Pablo Escobar, honest.
-Right.
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But he paid you.
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I took that money
because I wanted to stay alive.
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That's probably why you're still alive,
because you took Pablo's money.
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[David] Carlos took bribes from Pablo,
and I don't blame him.
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In an ironic twist,
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he's still collecting paychecks
thanks to Pablo.
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I've got to be honest with you.
I make Pablo tours.
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[both laugh]
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You do Pablo Escobar tours?
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Yes, Pablo Escobar tours.
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Now, everybody here make more money
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now when Pablo Escobar is dead,
than he was alive.
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Look at you, Pablo Escobar. I win.
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Now you're underground, pieces of bones.
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I have to say something, Pablo.
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Thank you very much, because right now,
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I'm making money under your name.
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[David] Pablo would be proud of
all the locals cashing in on his legacy.
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He liked making money,
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and he was very good at it.
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Transforming his life
from a petty thief in the barrios
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to a billionaire up in the penthouses.
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I'm heading up to the wealthy suburbs,
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because I've heard about an apartment
that Pablo used to live in
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that's up for sale.
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It's the perfect opportunity to get
a glimpse inside Pablo's high life.
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The apartment's owner, Claudia,
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was Pablo's sister-in-law,
married to his brother, Roberto.
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Back in those days,
she was a beauty queen.
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[David] You look amazing.
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-Thank you.
-You still look amazing.
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-Nothing's really changed very much.
-Thank you.
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-[David] Which is really weird, but cool.
-Thank you.
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[David]
Her looks may not have changed much,
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but life in the apartment has.
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Claudia is now divorced from Roberto.
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These days, it's just her and her dogs.
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Do we need the muzzles?
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-Yes.
-Okay.
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Yes, because they're very jealous of me.
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Right.
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[speaking Spanish] Vanessa,
we're going to need another chain.
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So they might bite a bit?
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Em... Could be.
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You okay in there?
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-[Claudia] Wait.
-Okay.
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[Claudia] Okay! Hello.
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Hello.
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-[dog barking]
-Oh, you're big!
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-[Claudia] No.
-Oh!
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[dogs barking]
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They're big boys.
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Hey, guys.
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[speaking Spanish]
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Oh, wow.
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-They're beautiful.
-Down.
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Down.
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Sit!
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[David] Do they mind being--
A little pat on the head? Hello.
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-[growling]
-No! Stay.
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Stay.
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No, Aaron.
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So it's just these two dogs that you have? No, I have seven.
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Nice to meet you.
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[David] I guess if you were once married
to an Escobar,
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you would need a lot of protection.
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[speaking Spanish]
This is where the rocket hit.
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Oh, this is where they tried to...
-Yes.
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-To blow this apartment up.
-Yes.
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[Claudia] They tried to kill Pablo
during the narco wars.
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Yeah, it's so strange to think
how crazy things were here.
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[speaking Spanish]
It was like being in a movie,
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and everything changed all of a sudden.
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[David] Pablo is gone,
but his legacy remains.
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-David, in here.
-Hello. Oh, there's more.
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-Did he have any secret compartments...
-Yes.
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-or hiding places?
-Yes. [opening drawer]
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Oh, so we lift that up.
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Oh, wow, look at that.
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You don't hide anything in there yourself?
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-Just keep it empty?
-No!
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[Claudia chuckles]
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You're not going to tell me
about the ones that you've got stuff in.
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[Claudia chuckles]
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I want you to look at the bathroom!
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And this would have been
Pablo's bathroom as well.
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-Yes.
-The bathroom hasn't changed a bit.
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[David] It's a '90s time capsule.
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Steel and marble.
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The whole room was built like this,
even the closet!
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And the bedroom
used to be like this as well.
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The floor, the ceiling, the door.
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The whole room was like this.
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Some pretty infamous things went on
in this place, you know?
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I want to move to a house,
I don't want to keep it.
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So I am selling it!
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Hopefully someone will buy it!
[chuckles]
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-[David sighs]
-I want $750,000 for it.
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Seems reasonable.
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A bit out of my price range, but you know.
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[David] I wished Claudia luck
with her narco real estate plans,
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as I head to another
of Pablo's residences,
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the number one narco-tourist
hot spot in town.
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High on a Medellin hilltop,
with a view to die for,
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Pablo Escobar built
his own five-star prison:
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La Catedral.
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Rather than being extradited to the US,
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Pablo cut a sweet deal
with the Colombian government
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and moved into the jail
for a five year sentence.
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Just like his apartment.
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It was decorated
with the latest '90s mod-cons,
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and he shared the luxury jail
with the occasional beauty queen,
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and his closest henchmen.
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Popeye was Pablo Escobar's
most trusted hitman,
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loyally taking out
over 250 people for his boss,
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even his own girlfriend.
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[loading gun]
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[David] He was locked up for 22 years,
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and now he's a popular YouTube star. [gunshots]
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[David] I'm meeting up with him
in the overgrown prison grounds
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as he films his latest video.
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I have the ultimate narco tour guide.
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My Instagram, YouTube,
Facebook and Twitter family!
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I warmly welcome you all.
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Today we will be talking about
La Catedral.
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Where I was imprisoned
with Pablo Emilio Escobar Gaviria
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along with his best soldiers, including me
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for 13 and a half months.
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[David]
Popeye says he's paid his debt to society,
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and now he's a reformed man.
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You have served your time in prison,
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but do you regret what you did
and the people you killed?
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I completely regret everything.
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I've got gray hair now.
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I've learnt that when you are
around people who treat you nicely
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that killing people isn't worth it.
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People don't admire me
because I was a murderer.
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People admire me because
I changed my life. I've done my time.
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I just want to get back into society.
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People back me on the streets.
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If I can't go out on the streets
to earn an honest living,
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I'll just grab a gun and I’ll go get it.
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All right, I don't... Yeah.
Don't grab the gun.
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-I think leave that option off the table.
-[both laugh]
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You've been there, done that.
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I think leave the gun...
Leave the guns behind.
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[David] On the way up to the old jail,
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I detect a little bit of regret
for killing hundreds of people.
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But he's oddly obsessed with those
who don't believe he's changed.
243
00:11:42,208 --> 00:11:47,375
Why would you bother me - a murderer-
someone that could shoot you in the head?
244
00:11:47,458 --> 00:11:50,291
I'm trying to change and
do the right thing now, so why bother me?
245
00:11:50,583 --> 00:11:53,375
I'm not afraid of dying
or of those maggots that confront me.
246
00:11:53,458 --> 00:11:56,458
Worm, insect, cockroach,
mortadella, gonorrhea.
247
00:11:56,541 --> 00:12:00,375
asshole, faggot, triple son of a bitch!
I know all the insults!
248
00:12:00,458 --> 00:12:03,000
[David] He certainly has
a colorful turn of phrase,
249
00:12:03,083 --> 00:12:05,375
and all his cursing has drawn a crowd.
250
00:12:05,458 --> 00:12:08,166
A couple of narco-tourists
from New York had come up
251
00:12:08,250 --> 00:12:09,875
to check out Pablo's prison.
252
00:12:10,208 --> 00:12:13,666
They hadn't expected to run into Popeye,
and they're starstruck.
253
00:12:13,750 --> 00:12:15,666
He's famous all over the world.
254
00:12:15,750 --> 00:12:17,916
What do you think of the whole story?
255
00:12:18,541 --> 00:12:21,208
What they did was awful, but...
256
00:12:22,166 --> 00:12:24,208
some people love him,
some people hate him.
257
00:12:24,916 --> 00:12:26,041
[David] Where do you stand?
258
00:12:26,291 --> 00:12:29,375
-[tourist laughs] Good question.
-That's a good question.
259
00:12:29,666 --> 00:12:33,375
I... I just wanna know the history.
That's about it.
260
00:12:33,791 --> 00:12:36,208
It's crazy.
I mean, like, a dream come true for me.
261
00:12:36,333 --> 00:12:38,250
Like... this is Popeye.
262
00:12:38,333 --> 00:12:40,291
[David]
Yeah, I'm pretty sure they loved him.
263
00:12:40,750 --> 00:12:41,750
So weird.
264
00:12:41,833 --> 00:12:44,791
[David] Which is odd, really,
to be hero-worshippng a man
265
00:12:44,875 --> 00:12:47,000
who's done so many despicable acts.
266
00:12:47,083 --> 00:12:48,708
You know, he killed his girlfriend.
267
00:12:48,833 --> 00:12:52,708
My private tour continues
through the overgrown prison grounds,
268
00:12:53,125 --> 00:12:57,291
and Popeye's eyes light up when we come
across the ruins of one of the bedrooms.
269
00:12:57,375 --> 00:13:01,583
[Popeye] Here is where the beauty queens
would come up to spend the night.
270
00:13:01,666 --> 00:13:05,250
Splendid women, the most beautiful women
of Colombia and all around the world.
271
00:13:05,333 --> 00:13:08,833
Here is where we would get the fire going
and I would get Pablo his liquor.
272
00:13:08,916 --> 00:13:12,000
But he would only drink
half a glass of Heineken,
273
00:13:12,083 --> 00:13:15,000
half a joint,
and then he would go after a young lady.
274
00:13:15,083 --> 00:13:16,708
It's like the Playboy mansion.
275
00:13:16,791 --> 00:13:19,541
Parties here were not about getting wasted
on hard liquor...
276
00:13:20,458 --> 00:13:21,875
or cocaine,
277
00:13:22,625 --> 00:13:25,333
just a little marijuana,
278
00:13:26,250 --> 00:13:28,125
and hardcore sex.
279
00:13:29,541 --> 00:13:31,208
I can figure out what that is.
[chuckles]
280
00:13:31,375 --> 00:13:34,416
A warrior like Pablo Escobar
eats beside his men at the table,
281
00:13:34,500 --> 00:13:36,833
fights beside them in war
and joins them in orgies.
282
00:13:36,916 --> 00:13:39,791
[David] It's a delicate question,
but I need to know....
283
00:13:40,291 --> 00:13:43,875
So you were both there
doing it at the same time?
284
00:13:43,958 --> 00:13:47,125
We were like a spread of dicks all over.
285
00:13:47,375 --> 00:13:50,375
We were covered in more pussy
than the day you were born.
286
00:13:50,458 --> 00:13:52,458
[both laughing] [both speaking indistinctively]
287
00:13:55,541 --> 00:13:58,333
[David] Popeye was in good form.
Charming, even.
288
00:13:59,416 --> 00:14:02,541
And as the tour continues,
I have to keep reminding myself
289
00:14:02,625 --> 00:14:05,666
I'm with Pablo Escobar's
stone-cold assassin.
290
00:14:07,333 --> 00:14:10,500
Popeye, you killed people
in this compound, right?
291
00:14:10,583 --> 00:14:13,166
Yes. I cut them into little pieces.
292
00:14:14,916 --> 00:14:17,250
And then we burned them. I'm joking!
293
00:14:17,375 --> 00:14:20,500
No, I don't want--
I don't want to joke about this.
294
00:14:20,583 --> 00:14:22,166
Ask him if he'd like me to kill his wife?
295
00:14:23,333 --> 00:14:25,083
See, that's the trouble.
You're so likable,
296
00:14:25,166 --> 00:14:27,458
but you're talking about
cutting up bodies, which isn't...
297
00:14:28,750 --> 00:14:29,750
That's not funny.
298
00:14:31,125 --> 00:14:32,583
You killed your girlfriend.
299
00:14:32,708 --> 00:14:33,583
[Popeye] Mhm.
300
00:14:35,333 --> 00:14:36,791
[David] That's fucked up.
301
00:14:38,333 --> 00:14:40,333
-[David] Ooh! Hello.
-[Popeye] Calm down, it's okay!
302
00:14:40,416 --> 00:14:44,166
[David] Popeye's prison tour takes
a sudden detour as he pulls out a gun.
303
00:14:44,583 --> 00:14:47,625
Is this the sort of gun
that you would use to...
304
00:14:47,750 --> 00:14:49,916
When you were killing people?
305
00:14:50,166 --> 00:14:51,250
[loading gun]
306
00:14:51,333 --> 00:14:53,833
Anyone can buy a gun but you still
need someone to shoot it.
307
00:14:53,916 --> 00:14:56,750
[David] He's now decided he wants
to show off his acting skills
308
00:14:56,833 --> 00:14:58,625
in an action scene he's written.
309
00:14:58,708 --> 00:15:01,166
Popeye is playing a version of himself,
310
00:15:01,333 --> 00:15:04,375
an ex-con who is confronting
a millennial gangsta.
311
00:15:04,458 --> 00:15:06,833
[Popeye] Well, well, well!
Look what I found here!
312
00:15:08,458 --> 00:15:09,875
This thing with a pair of eyes!
313
00:15:11,208 --> 00:15:13,708
-[Popeye] What's up, faggot?
-What's up, old dog?
314
00:15:14,291 --> 00:15:16,041
What are you doing on my mountain, faggot?
315
00:15:16,458 --> 00:15:17,958
-[stammers]
-[Popeye] What?
316
00:15:18,041 --> 00:15:19,833
Do you know what guns are for?
317
00:15:20,166 --> 00:15:21,500
To make men even!
318
00:15:21,583 --> 00:15:23,916
[gunshots]
319
00:15:26,750 --> 00:15:28,166
-[gunshot]
-[David] Ooh!
320
00:15:28,250 --> 00:15:30,250
[Popeye spits on him]
321
00:15:30,541 --> 00:15:33,625
[David]
It was an eerily convincing performance.
322
00:15:33,708 --> 00:15:35,625
I could tell he had done this before.
323
00:15:35,708 --> 00:15:38,375
That was...
324
00:15:39,416 --> 00:15:40,416
That was good.
325
00:15:40,916 --> 00:15:41,791
I think.
326
00:15:43,125 --> 00:15:44,541
Just like the real thing.
327
00:15:44,833 --> 00:15:46,375
The hitman! The hitman!
328
00:15:46,458 --> 00:15:50,250
[David] Popeye seems to be relishing
playing his old bad self again.
329
00:15:50,333 --> 00:15:54,541
It's quite weird that everyone's
so blase about all this,
330
00:15:55,416 --> 00:15:56,916
and sorta treats it like a big joke.
331
00:15:58,833 --> 00:16:01,583
And people love it, right?
Like, it rates really well.
332
00:16:02,041 --> 00:16:04,208
People wanna meet you.
People wanna talk to you.
333
00:16:04,541 --> 00:16:05,666
I'm talking to you.
334
00:16:05,750 --> 00:16:09,000
[David] I'm struggling with how to deal
with Popeye's new role;
335
00:16:09,083 --> 00:16:13,125
the assassin turning his disturbing past
into entertainment.
336
00:16:13,208 --> 00:16:15,416
And something in particular
is bothering me.
337
00:16:15,500 --> 00:16:17,500
The one thing I don't understand...
I understand...
338
00:16:18,750 --> 00:16:22,666
your adoration of Pablo
and everything that he meant to you,
339
00:16:22,750 --> 00:16:25,750
but... he made you kill your girlfriend.
340
00:16:25,958 --> 00:16:28,500
That's the bit where I would have gone...
341
00:16:29,916 --> 00:16:32,541
"No. Like, no. No way."
342
00:16:32,625 --> 00:16:36,291
She betrayed Pablo Escobar by trying
to give him up to the DEA.
343
00:16:36,375 --> 00:16:39,250
Pablo Escobar found out about it
and he ordered me to kill her.
344
00:16:39,958 --> 00:16:42,916
She was going against my God,
Pablo, and she was using me.
345
00:16:43,000 --> 00:16:44,041
So I had to execute her.
346
00:16:44,875 --> 00:16:46,375
Look at this beautiful city.
347
00:16:46,708 --> 00:16:50,541
It's a beautiful city on top of a cemetery
with hundreds of thousands of victims.
348
00:16:51,708 --> 00:16:54,708
And this is the only way
to escape poverty.
349
00:16:55,625 --> 00:16:58,208
You won't understand, because
we're from two very different worlds.
350
00:16:58,708 --> 00:17:01,875
I am the product of violence,
of blood and of prison.
351
00:17:02,416 --> 00:17:05,333
This is what has the power: my gun.
352
00:17:05,416 --> 00:17:06,625
[David] I can't help but think
353
00:17:06,708 --> 00:17:09,958
being Pablo's hitman
must have seriously damaged Popeye.
354
00:17:10,041 --> 00:17:12,958
Have you ever been to a psychologist
or something? Like, talked about it?
355
00:17:13,041 --> 00:17:14,041
Have you been to therapy?
356
00:17:14,625 --> 00:17:16,833
I see a psychologist sometimes.
357
00:17:16,916 --> 00:17:18,916
So I can give you their number, maybe.
358
00:17:19,958 --> 00:17:22,583
I talk to my black beauty here.
359
00:17:23,083 --> 00:17:24,166
She is my counsellor.
360
00:17:24,541 --> 00:17:26,333
[David] We've got different approaches.
361
00:17:26,416 --> 00:17:28,666
We've got very different approaches,
you and I. [laughs]
362
00:17:28,750 --> 00:17:31,666
I'll give you the number
for my psychologist!
363
00:17:32,125 --> 00:17:34,333
I don't want the number. [laughs]
364
00:17:35,000 --> 00:17:36,500
Don't want their number.
365
00:17:36,583 --> 00:17:38,166
[both laughing]
366
00:17:38,250 --> 00:17:40,250
[David] I don't wanna like you,
but I do like you. I was warned I'd end up liking you.
367
00:17:42,458 --> 00:17:44,458
Yeah, you're a very likable man
368
00:17:44,916 --> 00:17:46,458
who has done some very bad things.
369
00:17:50,625 --> 00:17:54,833
[David] I'm feeling conflicted
about being charmed by a brutal hitman.
370
00:17:55,250 --> 00:17:58,166
I'm just not convinced
that Popeye is truly reformed.
371
00:17:59,541 --> 00:18:03,666
He can't seem to escape living
in the shadow of a long dead drug lord,
372
00:18:03,750 --> 00:18:05,791
like most of the people I've met here.
373
00:18:06,750 --> 00:18:07,916
I've discovered
374
00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:11,125
that Pablo Escobar's legacy is
still very much alive
375
00:18:11,208 --> 00:18:12,250
here in Medellin.
376
00:18:12,833 --> 00:18:16,375
From the barrio boys and beauty queens
who live in his houses
377
00:18:16,458 --> 00:18:20,166
to the narco-tourism still making money
in his name.
378
00:18:29,250 --> 00:18:30,833
I'm heading up to Mexico
379
00:18:31,000 --> 00:18:34,291
and landing in the largest metropolis
in the Western Hemisphere:
380
00:18:34,416 --> 00:18:35,708
Mexico City.
381
00:18:38,958 --> 00:18:41,083
I've arrived on the Day of the Dead,
382
00:18:41,916 --> 00:18:44,708
the day that millions of Mexicans
head to the graveyards
383
00:18:44,791 --> 00:18:47,833
to be with the souls
of their deceased loved ones.
384
00:18:51,416 --> 00:18:54,666
They're the perfect crowd to mingle with
if you're a dark tourist.
385
00:18:56,333 --> 00:19:00,500
But I'm here to dig deeper than
scary-looking masks and face paint.
386
00:19:02,125 --> 00:19:05,458
I've heard about a new dark obsession
sweeping Mexico.
387
00:19:06,208 --> 00:19:10,250
A cult called Santa Muerte,
that worships the saint of death.
388
00:19:11,333 --> 00:19:14,000
I want to know what kind of people pray
389
00:19:14,083 --> 00:19:16,500
to an evil-looking skeleton
in a hooded robe,
390
00:19:16,958 --> 00:19:18,041
and why.
391
00:19:18,750 --> 00:19:22,000
The Santa Muerte religion
is rising in popularity
392
00:19:22,083 --> 00:19:24,208
in thousands of backyard shrines,
393
00:19:24,625 --> 00:19:27,166
but is outlawed
by the mainstream churches.
394
00:19:27,916 --> 00:19:30,375
So before I begin my religious journey,
395
00:19:30,458 --> 00:19:32,791
I thought I should get some advice
from a priest.
396
00:19:34,541 --> 00:19:36,750
The next morning, I head to a church
397
00:19:36,833 --> 00:19:39,291
where their priest is performing
an exorcism.
398
00:19:39,583 --> 00:19:41,583
[women shouting]
399
00:19:43,916 --> 00:19:47,291
[David] He was in the thick of it
with a bunch of bad spirits.
400
00:19:47,375 --> 00:19:48,875
What's happening here?
401
00:19:48,958 --> 00:19:52,791
[preist] She came here with her mother
but I saw a spirit in her.
402
00:19:52,875 --> 00:19:55,083
[David]
I've never seen an exorcism before.
403
00:19:55,166 --> 00:19:57,791
I wonder if they get any complaints
from the neighbors.
404
00:19:57,875 --> 00:20:00,125
-Very loud, isn't it? Very loud.
-[women crying]
405
00:20:00,250 --> 00:20:02,291
[David] I guess this is,
like, the go-to place
406
00:20:02,375 --> 00:20:04,458
-for someone who needs an exorcism.
-Exactly.
407
00:20:04,541 --> 00:20:07,333
[David] God, I wonder how many people
have thrown up in that bucket.
408
00:20:07,500 --> 00:20:09,583
[David] The exorcist takes a hard line
409
00:20:09,666 --> 00:20:12,291
with the types of people
who worship santa muerte.
410
00:20:12,375 --> 00:20:17,208
Santa muerte is completely satanic.
411
00:20:17,291 --> 00:20:19,083
The gangs in Mexico,
412
00:20:19,166 --> 00:20:24,000
drug traffickers, thieves, rapists,
the worst,
413
00:20:24,083 --> 00:20:26,375
they all worship santa muerte.
414
00:20:26,458 --> 00:20:32,083
The worst is the human sacrifice.
415
00:20:32,166 --> 00:20:33,666
Did you say human sacrifice?
416
00:20:33,791 --> 00:20:35,791
[David] But I didn't get an answer.
417
00:20:35,958 --> 00:20:39,708
He was distracted by a lady
with a suspicious-looking tattoo,
418
00:20:39,791 --> 00:20:41,791
and went into full interrogation mode.
419
00:20:41,875 --> 00:20:45,666
[priest] Are you a follower
of santa muerte? Can we see this?
420
00:20:47,541 --> 00:20:51,000
This is a santa muerte tattoo.
421
00:20:51,125 --> 00:20:53,666
Is this a santa muerte tattoo?
422
00:20:53,750 --> 00:20:56,000
Yes, this is a santa muerte tattoo.
423
00:20:56,083 --> 00:20:58,375
[David] The woman had brought along
her troubled son,
424
00:20:58,458 --> 00:21:00,291
a santa muerte worshipper,
425
00:21:00,375 --> 00:21:03,083
but he ran away
as soon as he saw the church.
426
00:21:03,166 --> 00:21:04,666
Before she knew what was happening,
427
00:21:04,750 --> 00:21:07,875
she was surrounded
by a team of holy warriors,
428
00:21:08,083 --> 00:21:11,583
all determined to cast out the demon
they suspected was inside her.
429
00:21:16,333 --> 00:21:19,666
[praying in Spanish]
430
00:21:27,333 --> 00:21:28,958
[David] It's getting spookier,
431
00:21:29,041 --> 00:21:32,750
and I'm worried that they're about
to cast out the contents of her stomach.
432
00:21:33,083 --> 00:21:34,083
[priest] Out!
433
00:21:34,166 --> 00:21:41,166
Go now, in the name of Jehova
I order you to get out.
434
00:21:41,458 --> 00:21:43,458
[priest praying]
435
00:21:45,833 --> 00:21:47,750
[David] But the demon isn't budging,
436
00:21:47,833 --> 00:21:50,541
even though they're trying
all the tricks in the holy book.
437
00:21:50,625 --> 00:21:52,625
[speaking Spanish]
438
00:21:54,333 --> 00:21:57,500
[David] It looks like the exorcist is
about to throw in the towel,
439
00:21:57,583 --> 00:22:01,291
but suddenly,
the exorcism becomes much more physical.
440
00:22:01,375 --> 00:22:05,250
[David] She's on the ground.
Always end up on the ground.
441
00:22:05,333 --> 00:22:09,083
[holy warrior] In the name
of the Holy Spirit I kick you out!
442
00:22:09,166 --> 00:22:12,041
-[woman groans]
-[David] God, this is awful.
443
00:22:12,125 --> 00:22:14,791
She looks like
she's experiencing real pain,
444
00:22:15,541 --> 00:22:17,583
but I wonder how much of it is caused
445
00:22:17,666 --> 00:22:20,541
by the rigorous hands-on healing
that's now going on.
446
00:22:20,625 --> 00:22:23,416
[holy warrior] She says it won't go
if you don't drag it out.
447
00:22:24,041 --> 00:22:25,875
[David]
But it seems to have done the trick,
448
00:22:26,083 --> 00:22:28,125
and her demon is finally released.
449
00:22:28,208 --> 00:22:31,958
[priest and woman repeatedly]
Out! Out! Out!
450
00:22:36,833 --> 00:22:39,250
-[woman grunts]
-[priest continues chanting]
451
00:22:47,833 --> 00:22:51,166
[David] I have absolutely no idea
what to make of this.
452
00:22:51,375 --> 00:22:53,166
I didn't see any demons exit.
453
00:22:53,750 --> 00:22:56,208
I'm just relieved
the two-hour ordeal is over.
454
00:22:56,291 --> 00:23:02,750
-[priest and woman repeatedly]
-Free of all rulers of evil.
455
00:23:02,833 --> 00:23:04,166
[David] Despite his warnings,
456
00:23:04,250 --> 00:23:07,375
the exorcist didn't convince me
to give up my journey
457
00:23:07,458 --> 00:23:09,416
into the world of santa muerte.
458
00:23:09,500 --> 00:23:12,291
So he offered at least give me
a blessing of protection.
459
00:23:12,375 --> 00:23:14,375
[priest performing a blessing ]
460
00:23:19,416 --> 00:23:22,250
[David] After what I just saw,
I might need it.
461
00:23:22,958 --> 00:23:24,000
Amen.
462
00:23:25,416 --> 00:23:27,666
But I'm still determined to keep going.
463
00:23:27,750 --> 00:23:31,500
I want to find out more
about Santa Muerte and her followers,
464
00:23:31,583 --> 00:23:34,208
and I found a street-wise guide
called Christian
465
00:23:34,291 --> 00:23:35,833
who's going to take me to them.
466
00:23:36,250 --> 00:23:38,000
He's got hookups in their world.
467
00:23:38,208 --> 00:23:42,000
We're on our way to the notorious
santa muerte stronghold in Tepito.
468
00:23:42,083 --> 00:23:43,958
Somebody's gonna die tonight, you know?
469
00:23:44,041 --> 00:23:47,250
That vibe is just out there loose tonight,
it's like the devil's out tonight.
470
00:23:47,333 --> 00:23:51,000
[David] Tepito is the neighborhood
of outcasts, thieves,
471
00:23:51,083 --> 00:23:53,916
-the poor, and forgotten.
-[driver] Only in the neighborhood.
472
00:23:54,000 --> 00:23:58,125
[David] Here in the underworld,
santa muerte is their holy mascot.
473
00:24:01,333 --> 00:24:06,166
We arrive along with the pilgrimage
of kneeling santa muerte devotees
474
00:24:06,250 --> 00:24:08,583
who are crawling
in atonement for their sins.
475
00:24:09,291 --> 00:24:12,250
They're all painfully heading
towards a public shrine
476
00:24:12,333 --> 00:24:16,916
that first appeared in 2001,
when a local woman, Dona Queta,
477
00:24:17,000 --> 00:24:19,958
decided to bring her santa muerte effigy
out of the house
478
00:24:20,041 --> 00:24:21,958
and down onto the sidewalk.
479
00:24:23,625 --> 00:24:25,958
It's the day after The Day of the Dead,
480
00:24:26,666 --> 00:24:30,000
but in Tepito,
the festivities are still going on,
481
00:24:30,416 --> 00:24:33,541
only they celebrate
in a very different way.
482
00:24:34,125 --> 00:24:36,583
Once a year,
they honor The Lady of Death,
483
00:24:36,666 --> 00:24:39,000
and here, she has a hype man.
484
00:24:39,166 --> 00:24:42,791
[chanting]
485
00:24:42,958 --> 00:24:46,916
The saint, the saint,
hooray, hooray, hooray.
486
00:24:47,000 --> 00:24:50,833
You can feel it.
You can feel it. The saint is here.
487
00:24:50,916 --> 00:24:53,500
I'm David. Nice to meet you, sir. David.
488
00:24:53,666 --> 00:24:56,208
[speaking Spanish]
All my life I have had problems.
489
00:24:56,291 --> 00:24:58,333
I got run over really badly
but she saved me.
490
00:24:58,416 --> 00:25:01,375
-[guide] He's like, "I got ran over..."
-[David] Oh, you got ran over.
491
00:25:01,458 --> 00:25:03,000
The santísima muerte says:
492
00:25:03,083 --> 00:25:06,291
In the name of the Father,
493
00:25:06,375 --> 00:25:10,208
-of the Son and the Holy Spirit...
-[people applauding]
494
00:25:10,375 --> 00:25:15,125
[David] A common theme for many of these
worshipers is having lived hard lives,
495
00:25:15,208 --> 00:25:18,291
and now they thank Santa Muerte
for them still being alive.
496
00:25:19,041 --> 00:25:21,000
I felt like I should join in
497
00:25:21,083 --> 00:25:23,583
and make an offering
at her famous shrine as well. Christian says booze
is a popular offering.
498
00:25:26,666 --> 00:25:30,541
She likes the strong stuff,
and she indulges in a bit of weed.
499
00:25:30,625 --> 00:25:35,416
We've got the candle, the alcohol,
we've got the marijuana... wow.
500
00:25:35,500 --> 00:25:37,541
[guide] Damn, the marijuana.
That's the best thing.
501
00:25:37,666 --> 00:25:38,958
Thank you. Slide boom.
502
00:25:39,083 --> 00:25:41,375
[guide]
That was not planned, but I mean...
503
00:25:41,458 --> 00:25:43,916
-[David] It just happens.
-[guide] I mean, I told you, man.
504
00:25:44,875 --> 00:25:48,958
[guide] In the name of the Father,
the Son and the Holy Spirit.
505
00:25:49,416 --> 00:25:50,416
Amen.
506
00:25:54,125 --> 00:25:56,958
[David]
I've swigged petrol-flavored mescal,
507
00:25:57,041 --> 00:25:58,791
and offered weed to Santa Muerte,
508
00:25:58,875 --> 00:26:01,541
Now I need to meet
the lady behind the shrine,
509
00:26:01,916 --> 00:26:03,916
the lady who started it all...
510
00:26:04,000 --> 00:26:04,958
Dona Queta.
511
00:26:05,041 --> 00:26:06,000
[chattering]
512
00:26:06,125 --> 00:26:09,750
[David] Christian and I grab an effigy,
and take it to be blessed by her.
513
00:26:09,833 --> 00:26:11,666
Dona Queta, I'm David.
514
00:26:11,791 --> 00:26:13,791
She wasn't quite what I was expecting.
515
00:26:13,875 --> 00:26:16,291
I brought this along as well.
516
00:26:17,250 --> 00:26:20,791
So I thought maybe, I don't know
if you could bless her or...
517
00:26:20,875 --> 00:26:22,500
You are going to hold it.
518
00:26:22,583 --> 00:26:24,875
-She says, "You're going to hold it."
-Okay, I'll hold it.
519
00:26:24,958 --> 00:26:26,833
But you got to give it lots of love.
520
00:26:26,916 --> 00:26:27,875
You hold it, like this.
521
00:26:27,958 --> 00:26:31,500
[David] She pulls out some kind
of fragrant holy air freshener,
522
00:26:31,583 --> 00:26:33,583
and sets to work blessing my statue.
523
00:26:33,708 --> 00:26:35,375
[woman blessing]
524
00:26:35,500 --> 00:26:37,583
My pretty little girl.
525
00:26:37,666 --> 00:26:39,208
[David] Is this the smell of heaven...
526
00:26:40,583 --> 00:26:41,541
or hell?
527
00:26:41,625 --> 00:26:43,416
[continues blessing]
528
00:26:43,500 --> 00:26:46,750
It's quite strange for me
to be holding this, because...
529
00:26:46,833 --> 00:26:50,250
like, where I'm from,
we don't celebrate death like this.
530
00:26:50,333 --> 00:26:52,541
For me, this is quite scary, you know?
531
00:26:53,541 --> 00:26:59,333
We are very happy with death,
but for everyone, God comes first.
532
00:26:59,416 --> 00:27:00,625
She is good and not evil...
533
00:27:01,375 --> 00:27:04,208
-That's what you're saying?
-[guide translating]
534
00:27:04,375 --> 00:27:06,375
"It's nothing bad," she says.
535
00:27:07,000 --> 00:27:08,625
She takes care of you,
536
00:27:08,708 --> 00:27:12,625
she takes care of me,
she takes care of everyone.
537
00:27:12,708 --> 00:27:14,416
"Takes care of all of us," she says.
538
00:27:14,500 --> 00:27:15,666
[woman] She’s so pretty.
539
00:27:15,750 --> 00:27:17,875
Thank you, thank you.
540
00:27:18,125 --> 00:27:20,125
[both speaking Spanish]
541
00:27:20,375 --> 00:27:22,666
[David] She instantly put me at ease.
542
00:27:23,750 --> 00:27:27,000
And invites us upstairs
to her own personal shrine.
543
00:27:27,750 --> 00:27:31,291
It's like a magical spare room
filled with dark trinkets
544
00:27:31,375 --> 00:27:32,833
and weird effigies.
545
00:27:33,458 --> 00:27:36,541
Dona Queta is just like
your average grandma,
546
00:27:36,875 --> 00:27:39,083
only she's not handing out cookies,
547
00:27:39,166 --> 00:27:42,625
she's showing us her collection
of bizarre death statues.
548
00:27:43,291 --> 00:27:44,333
She's cool.
549
00:27:44,916 --> 00:27:47,208
What's it like
living in this neighborhood?
550
00:27:47,291 --> 00:27:49,291
'Cause all I've heard is
how dangerous it can be.
551
00:27:49,375 --> 00:27:51,000
[speaking Spanish]
552
00:27:51,083 --> 00:27:53,583
She says, "Yes, hell, no.
I'm not gonna lie...
553
00:27:54,083 --> 00:27:56,708
Here, we live however we want to live.
554
00:27:56,791 --> 00:27:59,166
''We live however the fuck
we wanna live here.''
555
00:27:59,250 --> 00:28:01,833
Everyone does
whatever the hell they wanna do.
556
00:28:01,916 --> 00:28:04,875
''Anyone, everyone does
whatever the fuck we wanna do."
557
00:28:05,458 --> 00:28:07,625
And people here know
not to mess with you.
558
00:28:07,708 --> 00:28:09,333
No one messes with me.
559
00:28:09,416 --> 00:28:12,083
She says, "You better fucking
not even think about it."
560
00:28:12,250 --> 00:28:13,666
[both chuckle]
561
00:28:13,750 --> 00:28:16,500
[David] I can tell.
I can tell you're a strong lady.
562
00:28:16,583 --> 00:28:19,583
And did I see a photo of your husband
downstairs as well?
563
00:28:19,916 --> 00:28:22,083
Is he is he around at the moment, or...
564
00:28:22,166 --> 00:28:24,916
Yes, he's here, taking care of me,
565
00:28:25,208 --> 00:28:27,875
but he's been dead for a year and a half.
566
00:28:28,583 --> 00:28:29,875
But his spirit is here.
567
00:28:30,333 --> 00:28:32,166
He has to be here.
He takes care of me.
568
00:28:32,250 --> 00:28:34,250
She says, "He has nowhere else
to fucking be.
569
00:28:34,333 --> 00:28:36,166
This is his place. He should be here,
570
00:28:36,250 --> 00:28:38,250
and he should be taking care of me."
571
00:28:38,750 --> 00:28:39,666
What happened?
572
00:28:40,208 --> 00:28:42,875
-[woman speaking Spanish]
-He was mugged.
573
00:28:44,958 --> 00:28:45,916
Sorry.
574
00:28:46,000 --> 00:28:48,250
[woman] That's how it goes.
575
00:28:48,833 --> 00:28:50,625
That's true.
See, that scares me a little bit,
576
00:28:50,708 --> 00:28:53,375
but you're probably a lot more
at peace with it than I am.
577
00:28:53,458 --> 00:28:59,125
The most beautiful way to live
in this world is to live without any fear.
578
00:28:59,208 --> 00:29:01,000
Just live, just live happily.
579
00:29:01,500 --> 00:29:03,833
because when you die there is
no time for living.
580
00:29:04,041 --> 00:29:06,083
-And she has a good point, like--
-I agree.
581
00:29:08,166 --> 00:29:14,291
And I have cancer. I'm happy.
And I love my cancer.
582
00:29:14,375 --> 00:29:15,791
She loves her cancer...
583
00:29:16,875 --> 00:29:19,250
'cause it taught her out to live life.
584
00:29:19,333 --> 00:29:21,250
It's mine.
585
00:29:21,333 --> 00:29:25,416
That's the most positive outlook to cancer
I've ever heard of in my life.
586
00:29:25,666 --> 00:29:27,583
[David] When it comes to facing death,
587
00:29:27,666 --> 00:29:30,833
Dona Queta is
an incredibly positive person,
588
00:29:30,916 --> 00:29:33,041
and I'm humbled just being around her.
589
00:29:33,416 --> 00:29:37,000
There are plenty of people who have come
here for the same experience.
590
00:29:37,625 --> 00:29:39,625
[children saying hello in Spanish]
591
00:29:40,250 --> 00:29:41,541
[David] Through Dona Queta,
592
00:29:41,625 --> 00:29:45,375
I've realized that Santa Muerte
isn't about worshiping death.
593
00:29:45,916 --> 00:29:48,125
It's about not fearing death.
594
00:29:48,250 --> 00:29:51,416
[crowd chanting]
595
00:29:51,625 --> 00:29:53,791
[guide]
I think she just came to scold him.
596
00:29:53,875 --> 00:29:55,875
-Oh really?
-About something, yeah.
597
00:29:55,958 --> 00:29:57,291
-Yeah.
-Telling him off?
598
00:29:57,375 --> 00:29:59,291
Santa Madre says “you’re crazy!”
599
00:29:59,375 --> 00:30:02,000
She says, "Fuck you motherfuckers,
'cause you're crazy!"
600
00:30:02,458 --> 00:30:04,041
[David] People were getting in line
601
00:30:04,125 --> 00:30:07,625
for the famous giant cakes
that she serves each year.
602
00:30:07,708 --> 00:30:11,833
An entire community has grown up
around Dona Queta's little shrine,
603
00:30:12,333 --> 00:30:15,375
and now she's like
The High Priestess of Tepito.
604
00:30:15,458 --> 00:30:18,000
The queue for the cake starts over there.
605
00:30:18,083 --> 00:30:20,416
Dona, these cakes look amazing.
They're so huge.
606
00:30:22,250 --> 00:30:25,500
[David] I came here to find
an evil death cult,
607
00:30:25,583 --> 00:30:30,166
but instead found a group of outcasts
strengthened by their faith.
608
00:30:30,250 --> 00:30:33,458
I always get a bit nervous cutting cake,
thinking I'm gonna do a bad job.
609
00:30:33,541 --> 00:30:34,833
I'm just gonna get in there.
610
00:30:35,916 --> 00:30:38,625
They aren't actually worshipping
anything evil.
611
00:30:38,708 --> 00:30:41,416
They're just not scared
to look death in the face.
612
00:30:42,125 --> 00:30:43,083
This is good.
613
00:30:43,458 --> 00:30:45,041
And they eat death cake.
614
00:30:45,458 --> 00:30:47,458
Surely, cake can't be evil.
615
00:30:57,833 --> 00:30:59,916
It's time to leave Mexico.
616
00:31:01,125 --> 00:31:03,916
Tourists might relax
one more time poolside,
617
00:31:04,000 --> 00:31:07,500
sipping their last tequila
before catching their plane home.
618
00:31:08,541 --> 00:31:12,000
But I'm not interested
in leaving Mexico the easy way.
619
00:31:12,166 --> 00:31:14,166
MEXICO
MEXICO CITY
620
00:31:14,250 --> 00:31:17,833
So I head 1,000 miles north
to the US border,
621
00:31:17,916 --> 00:31:21,000
to see what illegal migrants
are confronted with
622
00:31:21,083 --> 00:31:23,666
as they try to flee Mexico for a new life.
623
00:31:26,791 --> 00:31:29,458
I've heard of a border crossing experience
624
00:31:29,541 --> 00:31:33,166
that turns being an illegal migrant
into a tourist attraction.
625
00:31:33,875 --> 00:31:36,750
I want to find out
what making that journey would be like,
626
00:31:37,541 --> 00:31:39,958
and how realistic this tour is.
627
00:31:40,875 --> 00:31:43,458
President Trump campaigned
to build a wall,
628
00:31:43,541 --> 00:31:46,083
so I'm surprised
that there's already one here.
629
00:31:46,625 --> 00:31:49,708
is more like a fence than a wall,
and it's not even finished.
630
00:31:50,416 --> 00:31:52,833
Surely,
this tour is going to be pretty easy.
631
00:31:52,916 --> 00:31:55,041
[man shouting] On the floor!
632
00:31:55,875 --> 00:31:57,583
[speaking Spanish]
633
00:31:57,666 --> 00:31:58,750
[David] It's 7:00 a.m.,
634
00:31:58,833 --> 00:32:02,958
and I'm lying on the icy ground
in a small town in the middle of nowhere.
635
00:32:03,041 --> 00:32:05,041
It's really cold down here. Oh, sorry.
636
00:32:05,125 --> 00:32:08,791
Most tourists are still asleep,
enjoying their warm hotel beds.
637
00:32:08,875 --> 00:32:11,041
[man] After this, no more answer,
no more question.
638
00:32:11,125 --> 00:32:12,416
Today, we no play.
639
00:32:12,500 --> 00:32:14,791
[David] But I'm being shouted at
by a masked man
640
00:32:14,875 --> 00:32:17,000
who demands we call him "Commander."
641
00:32:17,083 --> 00:32:18,625
[man] The river is very dangerous.
642
00:32:18,708 --> 00:32:22,083
60 feet deep, 50 feet wide.
100 mile an hour.
643
00:32:22,166 --> 00:32:24,708
[David] The tour begins
like a military boot camp.
644
00:32:24,791 --> 00:32:27,166
The Commander is an ex-people smuggler.
645
00:32:27,250 --> 00:32:29,833
He says he's seen countless people fail,
646
00:32:29,916 --> 00:32:33,166
and worse, die,
trying to cross the border.
647
00:32:33,250 --> 00:32:34,625
He set up this tour
648
00:32:34,708 --> 00:32:37,375
to show that crossing
the border isn't safe,
649
00:32:37,458 --> 00:32:40,041
and to discourage locals
and raise awareness.
650
00:32:41,208 --> 00:32:44,416
As dawn breaks,
I can start to make out my companions.
651
00:32:44,500 --> 00:32:47,416
Amongst them are
the odd foreigner like myself,
652
00:32:47,500 --> 00:32:51,708
and also some Mexican dark tourists
along for this misadventure.
653
00:32:51,791 --> 00:32:54,583
-The river was going to be 60 feet deep?
-[woman] 100 miles an hour.
654
00:32:54,666 --> 00:32:57,083
-[girl] And 50 feet wide.
-We're all going to die, basically.
655
00:32:57,166 --> 00:33:01,416
[David] Migrants in real life pay
their smugglers around $3,000
656
00:33:01,500 --> 00:33:03,208
to get them safely across,
657
00:33:03,291 --> 00:33:06,000
but this tour is only costing us $50.
658
00:33:06,083 --> 00:33:08,083
[man shouts] If you no pay, you die.
659
00:33:08,541 --> 00:33:09,791
Okay, I don't want to die.
660
00:33:09,875 --> 00:33:13,458
[David] Our commander takes his role
very seriously,
661
00:33:13,541 --> 00:33:14,916
and we nervously set off.
662
00:33:15,458 --> 00:33:18,583
The action starts almost as soon
as our six-hour trip
663
00:33:18,666 --> 00:33:20,583
to the pretend border begins.
664
00:33:20,708 --> 00:33:22,041
-[gunshot]
-[man] Oh! Shit.
665
00:33:22,625 --> 00:33:24,541
[David]
I don't know where they're coming from,
666
00:33:24,625 --> 00:33:27,083
but those gunshots sounded very authentic.
667
00:33:27,833 --> 00:33:29,541
How real is this going to get?
668
00:33:29,625 --> 00:33:31,791
[David] I don't know if it's just Mexico
or the tour.
669
00:33:31,875 --> 00:33:34,958
I'm jittery with nerves,
and I don't know what's going on.
670
00:33:35,041 --> 00:33:36,166
-[chattering]
-[gunshots]
671
00:33:36,250 --> 00:33:37,541
[David] Who is shooting at us?
672
00:33:37,625 --> 00:33:40,708
-[David] We're about to find out.
-[police sirenes]
673
00:33:40,791 --> 00:33:41,958
[man] Get down! Get down!
674
00:33:42,041 --> 00:33:44,166
[man] What are you doing here,
motherfuckers?
675
00:33:44,250 --> 00:33:46,541
[David]
Apparently, being robbed by criminals
676
00:33:46,625 --> 00:33:48,458
on your way to the border is common.
677
00:33:48,791 --> 00:33:49,916
[man] Are you the guide?
678
00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:52,166
[David] For a split second,
I forget this is a tour.
679
00:33:52,250 --> 00:33:53,250
[David] Quite authentic.
680
00:33:53,333 --> 00:33:56,333
[men shouting] Stand up! Up! Up! Up!
On your feet!
681
00:33:56,416 --> 00:33:58,375
[David]
I look to our commander for guidance...
682
00:33:58,458 --> 00:34:01,458
-[David] Commander, what's going on?
-...but I should have kept my mouth shut.
683
00:34:01,541 --> 00:34:04,583
[man] What are you sayin?
Is this your bag?
684
00:34:04,666 --> 00:34:05,750
You can take that.
685
00:34:05,916 --> 00:34:08,666
[man shouting] What motherfucker? What?
686
00:34:08,791 --> 00:34:10,875
[David] I don't really know how to react.
687
00:34:11,125 --> 00:34:13,208
This just seems nuts.
688
00:34:13,291 --> 00:34:14,375
[man] Don't laugh, fucker.
689
00:34:14,458 --> 00:34:15,916
Only English. No Spanish.
690
00:34:16,000 --> 00:34:19,750
[David] It's a weird mix of amateur drama
and violent reality.
691
00:34:19,833 --> 00:34:22,791
[man] Answer, fucker! Where's the drugs?
Is that all you've got?
692
00:34:23,041 --> 00:34:25,041
[men speaking in Spanish]
693
00:34:25,500 --> 00:34:27,166
-[gunshot]
-[David trying not to laugh]
694
00:34:27,291 --> 00:34:29,291
[men speaking Spanish]
695
00:34:31,041 --> 00:34:33,291
[David] But finally, the thugs scatter,
696
00:34:33,375 --> 00:34:35,250
and The Commander calls us together.
697
00:34:35,708 --> 00:34:36,791
We're safe,
698
00:34:36,875 --> 00:34:40,250
but the staged attack has
certainly had an effect on us.
699
00:34:40,333 --> 00:34:44,375
Max had even handed over
her $3,000 platinum diamond ring.
700
00:34:44,458 --> 00:34:46,250
-You lost your ring?
-I gave it to the guy.
701
00:34:46,333 --> 00:34:48,708
-[commander] You gave it to the guy?
-To stop him hitting you.
702
00:34:49,166 --> 00:34:51,041
-That was so kind of you.
-I know.
703
00:34:51,125 --> 00:34:53,541
-No give them something else.
-[David] As we set off again,
704
00:34:53,625 --> 00:34:56,250
I talked to Andreas from Mexico City.
705
00:34:56,333 --> 00:34:59,833
He's finding the tour a lot more
challenging than he was expecting.
706
00:34:59,916 --> 00:35:01,166
-Duck down...
-I mean, those...
707
00:35:01,250 --> 00:35:03,458
guns actually scared the shit out of me.
708
00:35:04,083 --> 00:35:06,208
You can't help it, right?
When it goes off.
709
00:35:06,291 --> 00:35:10,750
It's like, "Fuck."
I just keep saying, "Fuck." [chuckles]
710
00:35:10,833 --> 00:35:15,166
But how much desperation would lead you
to actually try to cross a border
711
00:35:15,250 --> 00:35:17,166
and risk your life?
712
00:35:21,416 --> 00:35:23,666
[David]
We're only two hours into the tour,
713
00:35:23,750 --> 00:35:28,208
and still had another four-hour trek
into the wild ahead of us to the border.
714
00:35:28,291 --> 00:35:29,708
[David] This is the mountain bit.
715
00:35:29,791 --> 00:35:31,291
We're tired and hungry.
716
00:35:31,791 --> 00:35:33,250
But for real migrants,
717
00:35:33,333 --> 00:35:36,041
there are much more
serious things to worry about.
718
00:35:37,375 --> 00:35:41,041
Brutal drug traffickers, or narcos,
roam the border areas
719
00:35:41,125 --> 00:35:44,916
looking for desperate migrants
to rob, rape, or murder.
720
00:35:47,125 --> 00:35:48,583
We stop for a break.
721
00:35:49,166 --> 00:35:51,166
We're nervous about what's coming next.
722
00:35:51,250 --> 00:35:52,750
You've already been beaten up.
723
00:35:53,333 --> 00:35:56,291
-What else is going to happen to you?
-Yeah, I don't...
724
00:35:56,375 --> 00:35:57,458
Not sure. [chuckles]
725
00:35:58,250 --> 00:35:59,083
Hey!
726
00:36:00,625 --> 00:36:01,708
What's happening here?
727
00:36:02,833 --> 00:36:04,791
[David] Cue the narcos.
728
00:36:05,000 --> 00:36:08,083
[thief]
C’mon fuckers! If someone runs, I shoot!
729
00:36:08,333 --> 00:36:09,833
[David] Meaner, more cinematic,
730
00:36:09,916 --> 00:36:13,166
and much more dramatic
than the younger gangsters.
731
00:36:13,250 --> 00:36:14,375
[shouts] Stand up!
732
00:36:14,458 --> 00:36:17,458
[woman shouting] Listen, motherfuckers.
733
00:36:17,750 --> 00:36:19,541
[David]
Things weren't looking good for us.
734
00:36:19,875 --> 00:36:21,125
[man] On your knees!
735
00:36:21,208 --> 00:36:24,208
[David] Then, somehow,
my bag is full of pretend drugs...
736
00:36:24,291 --> 00:36:25,541
What's happening?
737
00:36:25,625 --> 00:36:27,458
...and I'm being accused
of smuggling them.
738
00:36:27,541 --> 00:36:30,750
-[David] What?
-[man] Why do you have all this?
739
00:36:30,833 --> 00:36:32,916
-Why you have too much drugs?
-[David] What drugs?
740
00:36:33,000 --> 00:36:35,500
[David] I could have faked it
and said they were my drugs...
741
00:36:35,583 --> 00:36:37,416
We're not meant to have drugs, really.
742
00:36:37,500 --> 00:36:39,916
...but, lost in the moment, I ad-libbed.
743
00:36:40,000 --> 00:36:41,666
-Are those yours?
-[David] No, they're his.
744
00:36:41,750 --> 00:36:44,041
[David] And I sell out our commander.
745
00:36:44,125 --> 00:36:45,875
Yeah, they're his. Yeah, this guy.
746
00:36:45,958 --> 00:36:47,958
-[gunshot]
-[woman shouts] Don't move!
747
00:36:48,083 --> 00:36:50,291
[David] Can we work this out?
No, don't kill him!
748
00:36:50,375 --> 00:36:52,708
-Move it! Hurry! Come on, let's go!
-[gunshots]
749
00:36:52,875 --> 00:36:55,416
[thiefs shouting]
750
00:36:56,458 --> 00:36:58,041
Sorry about that, Commander.
751
00:36:58,125 --> 00:37:01,041
[David] But my dramatic improvisation
hasn't gone down well
752
00:37:01,125 --> 00:37:02,250
with the rest of the group.
753
00:37:02,750 --> 00:37:05,333
It seems like
we're all caught up in the drama.
754
00:37:05,625 --> 00:37:08,416
-Why'd you do that?
-I just panicked.
755
00:37:08,666 --> 00:37:11,375
-Shit. I can't believe it.
-I thought they were gonna--
756
00:37:11,500 --> 00:37:13,750
You gave those people our drugs! Why?
757
00:37:14,750 --> 00:37:17,291
[David] Everyone is tired,
and morale is low.
758
00:37:17,791 --> 00:37:20,000
And things are starting to get awkward.
759
00:37:20,083 --> 00:37:21,333
[commander] Come here!
760
00:37:21,416 --> 00:37:23,666
If you don't want to walk,
you can stay here.
761
00:37:24,416 --> 00:37:26,500
I don't care, okay?
762
00:37:28,041 --> 00:37:30,041
Somebody wants to stay here,
they'll stay here.
763
00:37:30,125 --> 00:37:33,625
Tomorrow, maybe come
the coyotes to eat you.
764
00:37:33,708 --> 00:37:36,166
[David] The Commander had put things
into perspective.
765
00:37:36,250 --> 00:37:40,000
We become more reflective
about the plight of real illegal migrants.
766
00:37:40,083 --> 00:37:43,291
It's strange to think that this can be...
people are doing this for real,
767
00:37:43,375 --> 00:37:46,083
-when we're just doing it for--
-Yeah, it's a mix of feelings.
768
00:37:46,166 --> 00:37:48,000
-For the experience.
-You're doing it for fun,
769
00:37:48,083 --> 00:37:50,583
but also, it's like, "Shit." [chuckles]
770
00:37:50,666 --> 00:37:53,250
And if they run out of water, they die.
771
00:37:53,333 --> 00:37:55,541
Completely. I mean, we're just
whipping out the muesli bar
772
00:37:55,625 --> 00:37:57,333
-whenever we want one.
-Yeah.
773
00:37:57,416 --> 00:37:59,416
It really makes you wonder
774
00:37:59,500 --> 00:38:03,333
if they're willing to put their lives
at risk and go through all of this,
775
00:38:03,750 --> 00:38:07,875
they must be having a really shitty time
in their own country.
776
00:38:07,958 --> 00:38:09,958
-Yeah, we're pretty privileged.
-Totally privileged.
777
00:38:10,041 --> 00:38:12,166
-Not pretty privileged. Totally.
-Yeah, 100%.
778
00:38:13,000 --> 00:38:15,375
[David]
The guns and insults might be fake,
779
00:38:15,458 --> 00:38:18,666
but after six hours,
we're all physically drained,
780
00:38:19,333 --> 00:38:22,291
and there's still one more scene
left to play.
781
00:38:31,791 --> 00:38:34,208
Looking down
the other side of the mountain,
782
00:38:34,291 --> 00:38:35,958
we can taste freedom.
783
00:38:37,416 --> 00:38:40,291
The Commander gives us
final instructions,
784
00:38:40,375 --> 00:38:43,375
urging us on towards our escape vehicle.
785
00:38:43,583 --> 00:38:46,125
[commander]
Run! Faster! Hurry up! Move it!
786
00:38:46,208 --> 00:38:48,208
[police sirenes]
787
00:38:55,291 --> 00:38:58,083
[David] Foiled by Border Patrol
at the last hurdle,
788
00:38:58,166 --> 00:38:59,875
the tour's finale plays out
789
00:38:59,958 --> 00:39:02,791
like the depressing end
of a bad Spaghetti Western,
790
00:39:03,250 --> 00:39:06,625
where you think the main characters
will get away, but they never make it.
791
00:39:07,083 --> 00:39:09,125
[officer] Everybody, put your hands
behind your head.
792
00:39:09,208 --> 00:39:12,875
[David] The people organizing this tour
wanted us to understand
793
00:39:12,958 --> 00:39:15,208
the plight of illegal migrants,
794
00:39:15,291 --> 00:39:18,291
and right to the end,
their commitment is admirable.
795
00:39:18,375 --> 00:39:19,958
[police handcuffing them]
796
00:39:20,083 --> 00:39:21,458
It's good.
797
00:39:21,916 --> 00:39:23,166
It's got to be authentic.
798
00:39:24,041 --> 00:39:26,541
[David]
It's a weird role-playing experience,
799
00:39:26,625 --> 00:39:28,625
that for six madcap hours,
800
00:39:28,708 --> 00:39:32,750
allowed us to slip in and out
of a very different reality.
801
00:39:32,833 --> 00:39:35,458
[officer]
You're trying to cross the border...
802
00:39:35,541 --> 00:39:37,500
[David] At times, it was entertaining,
803
00:39:37,583 --> 00:39:40,625
and I felt like I was an extra
in a B-grade movie,
804
00:39:41,333 --> 00:39:43,375
but in the end, I got the message.
805
00:39:44,125 --> 00:39:45,791
For real migrants,