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Subtitles by explosiveskull

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(WIND)

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(DEEP BREATHING)

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♪ ♪

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♪ ♪

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HELEN: Our next guest is a free soloing
phenomenon, please welcome Alex Honnold.

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Here is what I
don't understand.

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One little mistake, one little
slip, and you fall and die.

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ALEX: Yeah, I mean, uh, you
seem to understand it well...

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- Yeah.
- Yeah.

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ALEX: And I feel like anybody could
conceivably die on any given day.

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Soloing makes it feel far more
immediate and much more present.

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DAVE: Does it feel different
to be up there without a rope?

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ALEX: When you're climbing without
a rope, it's obviously like

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much higher consequence, much,
much higher level of focus.

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You know, it's a whole
different experience.

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So it's not like I'm just
pushing and pushing and pushing

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until something
terrible happens.

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I don't look at it, like,
with that perspective.

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But maybe that's why
it's dangerous for me.

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Maybe I'm too close to it and I can't
tell that I'm speeding towards a cliff.

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Okay.

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I like to differentiate
between risk and consequence.

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You know, when I'm doing these hard free
solos I like to think that the risk,

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you know, the chance
of me falling off is

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quite low even though the
consequence is extremely high.

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And that's kind of like one of the
appeals of free soloing, you know,

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to take something that seems difficult
and dangerous and make it feel safe.

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So, do you think that, uh, being a rock
climber has been a positive or negative

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for your dating life?

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My dating life?

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Yeah.

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I think, uh, I think
overall it's been a negative.

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Um, I just travel too
much and I live in a car.

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BETH: Let's talk through some of
the climbing adventures you've had.

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The historic free solo
climb, Moonlight Buttress.

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ALEX: When I did it, it was like,
"Oh," you know, kind of groundbreaking,

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kind of extreme.

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But for me it always felt
quite easy and pretty secure.

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BETH: Well, that wasn't where you
stopped, because that next challenge then

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was free soloing Half Dome.

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ALEX: Half Dome was a huge step for me
because it was twice as big as anything

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I'd ever soloed.

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REPORTER (OVER TV): <i>Free soloing is so
dangerous that less than 1% of people</i>

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<i>who climb attempt it.</i>

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<i>Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo
climbs, but none were tougher than this one.</i>

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ALEX: I got quite scared in some places,
and then you start to panic a little bit.

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And then you have to,
like, reel it all back in.

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What is next in
free solo climbing?

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Well, I don't know, I mean,
I've thought about El Cap, like,

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for years and every
year I look at it and I'm like,

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"That's really scary."

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Um, well, I've never even wanted to
really, or I've always wanted to but then

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I've always been like,
"That's too scary."

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I'm aiming towards the most
beautiful valley on earth.

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I remember coming to Yosemite as a little
kid and my dad would always have a little

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cooler in the back of the car, and
have our cookies in the cold milk,

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and we'd sit on these slabs above
Tunnel View, which is, like,

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the most epic
view of Yosemite.

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As soon as you see El Cap it's like,
"Oh, there it is, pretty exciting."

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El Cap is the most
impressive wall on earth.

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(THEME MUSIC PLAYS).

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ALEX: Yeah, I mean I love,
I love being in the van.

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I probably feel extra comfortable
in the van now because I've lived

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in it for nine years.

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My first van, well, I actually
stole the family minivan.

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My dad died when I was
19 and I, I quit school.

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There was some life insurance.

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I had just enough to dirt bag.

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Six years ago I was living in a Walmart
parking lot and spending eighty-eight cents

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on dinner every night.

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Living in a van is great but, you know,
at a certain point it'd be nice to have a

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bathroom and have,
like, a shower at least.

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PRODUCER: So you have a
girlfriend now, I heard.

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- Hmm, trending towards one.
- Trending towards?

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Hmm, I mean, she's very supportive
about, like, you know, you have to do you.

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Yeah we'll, we'll see.

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But yeah, there probably will be
plenty of girlfriends in my life,

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you know, in terms of,
like, big climbing,

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lifetime achievement deals,
where you're just like, well,

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like I will always choose
climbing, over, over a lady.

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At least, you know, so far.

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How many times have
you climbed El Cap?

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Probably like 40
something maybe.

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- You ever free solo? -No and nobody has.
- Why haven't you done it yet?

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Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know,
think about it, it's freaking scary.

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I don't know, so I mean I've thought about
this since 2009, like, each year since 2009,

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I've been like, "This is the year,"
and each year I climb it and I'm like,

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"This isn't the year, like,
this is fucked," you know.

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So I'm like, "Uh." But the
thing is I'll never be content,

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unless I at least
put in the effort.

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Because, like, if I do all the work and
I'm still like, "This is messed up,"

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then maybe it's just not for me,
maybe its future generation, you know.

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Or maybe just somebody who
has nothing to live for.

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When I thought about El Cap years ago, there
were question marks all over the walls.

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It's like I don't know about this
pitch, I don't know about that pitch,

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like I don't know about this particular
slab, there are all these things that

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seem pretty crazy to me.

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If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap,
then I need a good map of what that will

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take, you know, like a, a mental image of
what the hard parts are, where they are,

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what they will entail.

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If I'm going to do it, Free
Rider seems like the best route.

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Oh, hi.

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TOMMY: What's up, dude?

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ALEX: Oh, hey.

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Oh, actually, I might as well just
rack it straight onto my harness.

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So, do you wanna lead
the Freeblast or do I?

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I feel like we should do what we did
before which would be you lead the, yeah,

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you lead the Freeblast.

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ALEX: So, basically I'll just try
to take it, like, as far as I can.

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TOMMY: Yeah.

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JIMMY: So Tommy just got here
and they're going up Freerider.

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Okay.

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I'm just gonna try to shoot this
pitch and the traverse pitch and then

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I'm gonna jug out
like a maniac.

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Okay.

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Do we have enough line
up there to do all this?

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- Yeah.
- Okay.

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ALEX: The idea of going up
on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell

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is to get a feel for the
route and just visualize it.

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To see what feels
scary and what doesn't.

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Oh, God.

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TOMMY: Look at those fixed ropes
(INAUDIBLE) the first climb.

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ALEX: Tommy's been a hero
of mine since I was a kid.

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I didn't technically have posters
of him up in my room as a kid,

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but it was like the same deal, you know,
where I was like, "Tommy's the man."

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Tommy really showed what was
possible, free climbing on El Cap.

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Tommy is the one that explored
every aspect of the wall.

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And most of the routes that he's put up on El
Cap haven't been repeated because they're,

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they're basically too hard.

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And then, ultimately culminated
with the Dawn Wall which was his

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multi-year project.

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I mean possibly the hardest
big wall in the world.

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TOMMY: I've been obsessed
with El Cap for years.

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El Capitan is unbelievably
huge, kind of unfathomably huge.

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It's 3,200 feet
of sheer granite.

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Looking at it, it doesn't seem
right, it doesn't seem like you

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should be able to climb it.

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I understand why
Alex is obsessed.

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El Cap has obsessed
generations of climbers.

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I think it was first climbed in 1958 by
Warren Harding, and it took them 46 days

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over 16 months because they
couldn't do it continuously.

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They had to drill bolts into the
granite and pull themselves up.

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And then ever since then, it's been the
center of the rock climbing universe.

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I've spent 20 years of my life climbing
El Cap but I'd never do it without a rope.

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There's no margin for error.

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Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic
achievement, that if you don't get that

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gold medal you're gonna die.

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That's pretty much what
free soloing El Cap is like.

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You have to do it perfectly.

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ALEX: Today I am playing through
a lot of different scenarios,

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so thinking about the moves,
thinking about the body position,

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and more than anything just thinking
about what it would feel like to,

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to be in that position
without a rope.

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There are a lot of things that
you can physically do on a rope.

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Oh, God.

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But then the idea of taking the
rope away, you're just like,

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"I don't know if I'd wanna trust
that little foothold. Oh, my God,

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my feet hurt so bad and I'm
so pumped and my hand hurts.

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I just feel pooped.

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We're kind of getting worked.

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When you've been thinking about something
for years, that's a long time to be,

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like, sort of considering an idea without,
like, really talking to anybody about it.

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Especially someone like Tommy.

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TOMMY: When I was climbing, like, up the
endurance corner and across the traverse,

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I was just looking down thinking about,
I was like, "Dude, this seems so scary."

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ALEX: I don't know.

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TOMMY: That part is just
so exposed and it's pretty.

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ALEX: See, that part again is like, at
least you have holds though, you know.

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TOMMY: Yeah.

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ALEX: The Freeblast slabs have
like several moves where it's like,

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your whole life just depends
on one foothold, you know.

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Soloing is like such a
weird personal activity.

174
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You never talk about
soloing projects.

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I mean, I've done all my
soloing without telling anybody,

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because I don't want
any extra pressure.

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The idea of climbing El Cap, obviously I
get interview questions about it all the

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time, like, "Oh, would
you like to do that?"

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And I've always been like,

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"No, well maybe, we'll see.
You know, who knows?"

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00:13:01,088 --> 00:13:04,125
But like in the back of your mind
you're like, "Yes, for sure."

182
00:13:13,032 --> 00:13:16,033
I used to be like
a super picky eater.

183
00:13:16,035 --> 00:13:21,476
When I was like 19 or 20 or, well, between like,
20 and 24, I basically decided that I had

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to start eating vegetables, and then
sort of, like, systematically introduced

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00:13:25,045 --> 00:13:29,217
myself to vegetables, like one at
a time, which worked pretty well,

186
00:13:30,583 --> 00:13:32,786
now I pretty much
eat anything.

187
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I stopped eating meat maybe
three or four years ago, um,

188
00:13:40,928 --> 00:13:43,028
mostly for
environmental reasons.

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Then once I stopped I also kind of got
into the ethics of it a little bit more.

190
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We'll just see how
this comes out.

191
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Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks who
probably think that this is, like, terrible.

192
00:13:56,577 --> 00:14:00,081
I'm eating, like,
canned chili and eggs.

193
00:14:02,848 --> 00:14:05,182
Growing up, I mean, I didn't
like eating weird foods,

194
00:14:05,184 --> 00:14:08,919
I didn't like bugs, you know,
I was just like a total tweeker.

195
00:14:08,921 --> 00:14:11,791
I guess I was
quite a shy child.

196
00:14:12,693 --> 00:14:14,793
Bit of a dark soul, I think.

197
00:14:14,795 --> 00:14:17,531
Maybe melancholic is the word.

198
00:14:17,865 --> 00:14:22,667
I remember really liking to play with
my Legos and play computer games and,

199
00:14:22,669 --> 00:14:25,669
uh, and then obviously once I started
rock climbing I was going to the

200
00:14:25,671 --> 00:14:27,605
climbing gym all the time.

201
00:14:27,607 --> 00:14:31,176
But I didn't really have a whole
lot of hobbies or interests.

202
00:14:31,178 --> 00:14:33,845
I definitely wasn't
cool, you know.

203
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I grew up in Sacramento and the
high school I went to, I was, uh,

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00:14:36,617 --> 00:14:39,717
in an international baccalaureate
program, so we were all sort of

205
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the intellectual kids.

206
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So, in a way it was fine to be sort
of a dorky loner cause, you know,

207
00:14:45,224 --> 00:14:48,161
the whole program was
focused around that.

208
00:14:48,962 --> 00:14:52,163
There was definitely a time when I started
climbing outside more and I was just

209
00:14:52,165 --> 00:14:54,264
starting to road trip
and go to campgrounds,

210
00:14:54,266 --> 00:14:56,868
but I was too afraid
to talk to strangers.

211
00:14:56,870 --> 00:15:00,004
So, I was doing a lot of soloing, or
just a lot of climbing by myself just

212
00:15:00,006 --> 00:15:03,343
because I didn't know anybody and
I didn't wanna talk to anybody.

213
00:15:04,745 --> 00:15:07,214
It's freaking good,
I've outdone myself.

214
00:15:10,784 --> 00:15:13,588
Spicy chili really
adds something.

215
00:15:20,026 --> 00:15:22,894
As a kid I just love climbing trees
and climbing buildings and, like,

216
00:15:22,896 --> 00:15:24,696
playing on things.

217
00:15:24,698 --> 00:15:27,268
And when I was going to school here I was also
climbing on all the roofs and stuff here.

218
00:15:27,501 --> 00:15:29,668
Uh, and, uh, yeah.

219
00:15:29,670 --> 00:15:32,003
It's actually kind of intimidating
talking to groups of kids.

220
00:15:32,005 --> 00:15:34,938
Like, when I was in high school
I was mortified of standing in

221
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front of the class.

222
00:15:36,409 --> 00:15:38,308
But, like, you kind of get through
it and, like, eventually you feel

223
00:15:38,310 --> 00:15:39,744
more and more comfortable.

224
00:15:39,746 --> 00:15:41,012
I don't know.

225
00:15:41,014 --> 00:15:42,813
- There's a question.
- Um, yeah.

226
00:15:42,815 --> 00:15:45,049
How do you feel about being
famous, just for, like,

227
00:15:45,051 --> 00:15:46,652
turning your hobby
into your career?

228
00:15:46,654 --> 00:15:49,788
I mean, I think it's the best thing in
life to be able to take the one thing

229
00:15:49,790 --> 00:15:52,923
you love most and have it, like, work
out that you can make a living that way.

230
00:15:52,925 --> 00:15:55,159
You know, so it's nice that I
now get paid to do that, yeah.

231
00:15:55,161 --> 00:15:57,364
How much money do you have?

232
00:15:59,900 --> 00:16:03,136
I've got, I've got, I've got probably
like 40 bucks in my wallet, you know.

233
00:16:03,837 --> 00:16:05,937
Um, but no, like,
a, a fair amount.

234
00:16:05,939 --> 00:16:11,142
Um, like, like, you know, say, like,
a moderately successful dentist

235
00:16:11,144 --> 00:16:13,314
or something, probably.

236
00:16:13,579 --> 00:16:15,212
Mr. K?

237
00:16:15,214 --> 00:16:17,948
MR. K.: Alex, could you talk about your
foundation a bit and what you're doing?

238
00:16:17,950 --> 00:16:21,354
ALEX: Yeah, so, I started a non-profit,
um, I guess maybe four years ago.

239
00:16:21,722 --> 00:16:24,958
TEACHER: Let's watch this piece of video
so you're gonna get a little taste of that.

240
00:16:26,727 --> 00:16:30,260
ALEX: Climbing has allowed me to travel all
over the world, which has really opened my

241
00:16:30,262 --> 00:16:32,432
eyes to how the rest
of the world lives.

242
00:16:33,132 --> 00:16:35,899
I mean, I see all these people, I mean
they're like a billion people on Earth

243
00:16:35,901 --> 00:16:37,268
without access to power.

244
00:16:37,270 --> 00:16:39,403
And so I started my foundation
sort of as an attempt to, like,

245
00:16:39,405 --> 00:16:41,005
balance the cosmic scales.

246
00:16:41,007 --> 00:16:44,908
So, I've been giving, maybe, like, a
third of my income every year through the

247
00:16:44,910 --> 00:16:46,911
foundation to, like,
environmental non-profits.

248
00:16:46,913 --> 00:16:49,080
I mean, so, like off-grid solar
projects, things like that, like,

249
00:16:49,082 --> 00:16:52,352
things that lift people out of
poverty, but also help the Earth.

250
00:17:07,367 --> 00:17:09,099
SANNI: Ah, you get out.

251
00:17:09,101 --> 00:17:11,705
- Oh, hi.
- Hi.

252
00:17:15,407 --> 00:17:17,944
ALEX: I met Sanni, book
touring in Seattle.

253
00:17:18,511 --> 00:17:21,982
And then we just have been
hanging out ever since.

254
00:17:22,182 --> 00:17:25,150
I think, I think this is our very first date
in Las Vegas, and I think we're climbing,

255
00:17:25,152 --> 00:17:27,251
like, a very easy
multi-pitch together.

256
00:17:27,253 --> 00:17:30,288
Um, you know I just took her up
this big tall route because then,

257
00:17:30,290 --> 00:17:32,524
I kind of knew it
would blow her mind.

258
00:17:32,526 --> 00:17:33,525
CHAI: Is she a climber?

259
00:17:33,527 --> 00:17:36,795
ALEX: Um, Sanni's like a
little bit of a climber.

260
00:17:36,797 --> 00:17:41,102
She, she's just starting but I'd
hardly characterize her as a climber.

261
00:17:42,403 --> 00:17:45,569
You see straight in front of us, there's
like an depression that looks like a heart.

262
00:17:45,571 --> 00:17:46,505
Yeah.

263
00:17:46,507 --> 00:17:49,007
To the left of that,
that's Freerider.

264
00:17:49,009 --> 00:17:51,542
This is like the whole valley,
like, we're driving in this highway.

265
00:17:51,544 --> 00:17:52,845
Uh-hmm.

266
00:17:52,847 --> 00:17:53,979
And then this is, like, the
valley loop from here to here,

267
00:17:53,981 --> 00:17:56,314
the main rocks are all,
like, between here and here.

268
00:17:56,316 --> 00:17:59,453
SANNI: Okay, oh, maybe
I should read this.

269
00:18:00,287 --> 00:18:02,423
ALEX: No.

270
00:18:02,655 --> 00:18:06,059
SANNI: Alex was giving a talk in
Seattle, in December last year.

271
00:18:06,292 --> 00:18:09,193
I didn't know anything
about him and I showed up.

272
00:18:09,195 --> 00:18:11,296
Wait, you're wearing the same
shirt in half these photos.

273
00:18:11,298 --> 00:18:12,462
ALEX: I know.

274
00:18:12,464 --> 00:18:13,964
SANNI: Oh, Alex.

275
00:18:13,966 --> 00:18:16,233
ALEX: Well, because I don't have
anybody to help me with my wardrobe.

276
00:18:16,235 --> 00:18:20,473
SANNI: Oh and then, when I got my
book signed, I gave him my number.

277
00:18:24,010 --> 00:18:27,280
Which was sort of a joke with
a friend but then evolved.

278
00:18:28,115 --> 00:18:33,017
I just thought he was really
cute but also brutally honest,

279
00:18:33,019 --> 00:18:35,185
but I'm really drawn to that.

280
00:18:35,187 --> 00:18:37,555
ALEX: Whoa, look how
precariously balanced it is.

281
00:18:37,557 --> 00:18:40,057
SANNI: But he's also just
a funny guy, he's weird.

282
00:18:40,059 --> 00:18:43,129
You know, a weird dude,
and I find it interesting.

283
00:18:43,730 --> 00:18:45,496
ALEX: Oh, we tree
pose on the tree?

284
00:18:45,498 --> 00:18:46,696
SANNI: It's not wobbling.

285
00:18:46,698 --> 00:18:49,267
ALEX: It's totally wobbling,
what are you talking about.

286
00:18:49,269 --> 00:18:51,402
Just for you.

287
00:18:51,404 --> 00:18:54,407
SANNI: I'm waiting. ALEX: Oh.
SANNI: Okay.

288
00:18:59,078 --> 00:19:00,545
ALEX: When you start
getting eaten by mosquitoes,

289
00:19:00,547 --> 00:19:02,247
feel free to
just start climbing.

290
00:19:02,249 --> 00:19:04,315
Just keep the Grigri on.

291
00:19:04,317 --> 00:19:06,084
SANNI: I'll wait.

292
00:19:06,086 --> 00:19:08,588
ALEX: Okay, whatever
you're comfy with.

293
00:19:11,124 --> 00:19:13,223
Having the girlfriend
in the van is awesome.

294
00:19:13,225 --> 00:19:17,095
I mean, she's cute and small and,
like, livens the place up a bit,

295
00:19:17,097 --> 00:19:19,430
doesn't take up too much room.

296
00:19:19,432 --> 00:19:23,037
I mean, it's, pretty much
makes life better in every way.

297
00:19:25,171 --> 00:19:28,075
SANNI: Alex, you got me tight?

298
00:19:30,277 --> 00:19:33,080
This is nerve-racking.

299
00:19:40,686 --> 00:19:46,391
When I was lowering Alex, I was watching him
come down the final section and the rope

300
00:19:46,393 --> 00:19:48,259
went right through the
Grigri, right through my hands,

301
00:19:48,261 --> 00:19:51,296
and right through the Grigri
and he dropped to the ground.

302
00:19:51,298 --> 00:19:53,634
It was my fault that I didn't
watch the end of the rope.

303
00:19:54,568 --> 00:19:58,137
It was just like, "Oh, my
gosh, what have I done?"

304
00:19:59,739 --> 00:20:02,573
ALEX: The x-ray didn't show much, but
then they took the CAT scan and then they

305
00:20:02,575 --> 00:20:04,509
said it was, like, two
compression fractures and.

306
00:20:04,511 --> 00:20:06,644
But they only focused on (INAUDIBLE)
they didn't focus on the lower.

307
00:20:06,646 --> 00:20:10,584
ALEX: Right after it happened
I wanted to break up with her.

308
00:20:10,783 --> 00:20:14,952
I was like, "Oh, this is bad
for my climbing." But she said,

309
00:20:14,954 --> 00:20:17,355
"Is that really gonna
make your life any better?"

310
00:20:17,357 --> 00:20:19,958
I was like,
"No, probably not."

311
00:20:19,960 --> 00:20:23,497
This is gonna feel a
little uncomfortable.

312
00:20:23,930 --> 00:20:25,329
SANNI: I said, you know,

313
00:20:25,331 --> 00:20:28,432
"I think we can move past this
and I think you could have it all.

314
00:20:28,434 --> 00:20:32,373
I think that you could have a
steady girlfriend and climb."

315
00:20:33,272 --> 00:20:35,440
Exhale.

316
00:20:35,442 --> 00:20:38,476
ALEX: As it turns out, compression
fracture isn't too serious.

317
00:20:38,478 --> 00:20:41,346
They said that I could climb and just
be careful about pain management and

318
00:20:41,348 --> 00:20:44,318
all that stuff.

319
00:20:44,518 --> 00:20:47,352
But it's just a
little bit rattling.

320
00:20:47,354 --> 00:20:50,387
Because I definitely know some people who
have fallen super far and survived or,

321
00:20:50,389 --> 00:20:53,057
like, gone through a tree
and sort of been okay.

322
00:20:53,059 --> 00:20:56,728
And now I'm like, "I don't know,
like, I don't think I'd be okay."

323
00:20:56,730 --> 00:21:00,397
And so I imagine falling free soloing
or something from 50 meters up, I mean,

324
00:21:00,399 --> 00:21:03,169
I realize that my body would
just explode on impact.

325
00:21:20,286 --> 00:21:23,453
In 2012, I was here for the first
time and it was right before I went to

326
00:21:23,455 --> 00:21:27,293
Yosemite for the season, and that was
like my best Yosemite season ever.

327
00:21:39,172 --> 00:21:40,704
TOMMY: What was that, Alex?

328
00:21:40,706 --> 00:21:42,707
ALEX: I said you just passed halfway
and, uh, the rope's actually looking

329
00:21:42,709 --> 00:21:45,512
pretty good now.

330
00:21:46,546 --> 00:21:49,480
TOMMY: Yeah, pretty nice rock.

331
00:21:49,482 --> 00:21:52,987
I think the climbing here in Morocco,
it's good training for El Cap.

332
00:21:54,722 --> 00:21:58,288
It's gonna make him strong, it's gonna get
him good at moving through the mountains,

333
00:21:58,290 --> 00:22:01,227
it's gonna make him feel fit.

334
00:22:07,133 --> 00:22:11,505
Flowing through the mountains in the
ways that you do with Alex is addicting.

335
00:22:15,175 --> 00:22:19,579
His attitude towards risk, it
makes you feel kind of invincible,

336
00:22:23,782 --> 00:22:29,423
which is emotionally appealing, but for
me I don't think it's the smartest thing.

337
00:22:33,092 --> 00:22:34,592
Ah!

338
00:22:34,594 --> 00:22:38,232
Climbing with Alex is,
it's like a vice in a way.

339
00:22:39,299 --> 00:22:42,467
It's like smoking cigarettes
with beer or something.

340
00:22:42,469 --> 00:22:45,635
It's like, I don't really wanna do it but
I just, like, let myself do it sometimes

341
00:22:45,637 --> 00:22:46,837
because it's kinda nice.

342
00:22:46,839 --> 00:22:50,343
- Yeah, buddy!
- Yo!

343
00:22:56,281 --> 00:22:59,249
Can you read me your
journal entry for today?

344
00:22:59,251 --> 00:23:02,755
It says, "Bey wall 7C+, one fallen
crux, two pumped, need more fitness."

345
00:23:05,558 --> 00:23:09,460
Do you ever put things like "Saw
the biggest juniper tree of my life"?

346
00:23:09,462 --> 00:23:11,695
No, not in the
climbing journal.

347
00:23:11,697 --> 00:23:15,266
- Miss my dog.
- No.

348
00:23:15,268 --> 00:23:17,300
- And my mom.
- I don't know, none?

349
00:23:17,302 --> 00:23:19,806
- No, no.
- No. -All right.

350
00:23:32,251 --> 00:23:36,520
Alright, Jim's gonna follow you guys down
partway, Clair's gonna pick you guys up at

351
00:23:36,522 --> 00:23:38,455
the bottom of the gully
going into the base.

352
00:23:38,457 --> 00:23:39,891
Okay.

353
00:23:39,893 --> 00:23:42,425
And then we'll be
shooting on the wall.

354
00:23:42,427 --> 00:23:45,529
ALEX: So, once we pass you guys, you guys
wrap and then hike to the summit basically?

355
00:23:45,531 --> 00:23:46,664
Yeah.

356
00:23:46,666 --> 00:23:49,400
ALEX: Jimmy and I have
worked together for 10 years.

357
00:23:49,402 --> 00:23:51,402
We've climbed all
over the world.

358
00:23:51,404 --> 00:23:53,471
MIKEY: We are doing the
triple link up too, right?

359
00:23:53,473 --> 00:23:55,539
JIMMY: I mean, by the time we
get to Yosemite we're gonna be

360
00:23:55,541 --> 00:23:57,845
as Cheyne says, "Yoked."

361
00:24:01,614 --> 00:24:04,649
ALEX: The team that Jimmy assembled
are all professional climbers.

362
00:24:04,651 --> 00:24:07,354
The best possible crew
for this kind of thing.

363
00:24:07,654 --> 00:24:09,586
And so in a way, I'm like, "This
is kinda awesome." You know,

364
00:24:09,588 --> 00:24:13,126
it's kind of just like I get to
go climb with all my friends.

365
00:24:16,930 --> 00:24:20,565
JIMMY: Mikey, we should put someone right
here because if you lean out you can see the

366
00:24:20,567 --> 00:24:22,432
entire freaking route.

367
00:24:22,434 --> 00:24:24,868
MIKEY: Then let's just put the 100
meter there and the 400 footer here.

368
00:24:24,870 --> 00:24:26,772
Doubled up.

369
00:24:27,173 --> 00:24:32,445
I've known Alex since he pretty much
started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009.

370
00:24:33,245 --> 00:24:37,882
I've filmed Alex a handful
of times, free soloing.

371
00:24:37,884 --> 00:24:41,352
And then we've also spent a couple of
winters together down in South America.

372
00:24:41,354 --> 00:24:43,921
So, uh, we, the
time's added up.

373
00:24:43,923 --> 00:24:46,356
Uh, I spend a lot of
time with him now.

374
00:24:46,358 --> 00:24:50,528
So, I'm scared because I don't
wanna see anything happen to Alex.

375
00:24:50,530 --> 00:24:53,297
I mean, it's one of the reasons that I
almost said no to this job, and, I mean,

376
00:24:53,299 --> 00:24:55,599
I think Jimmy went through
the same stuff of being like,

377
00:24:55,601 --> 00:24:58,271
"Do we really wanna
be part of this?"

378
00:24:59,606 --> 00:25:02,472
JIMMY: I've always been conflicted
about shooting a film about free soloing

379
00:25:02,474 --> 00:25:05,776
just because it's so dangerous.

380
00:25:05,778 --> 00:25:10,981
It's hard to not imagine, your friend,
Alex, soloing something that's extremely

381
00:25:10,983 --> 00:25:15,422
dangerous and you're making a film about
it, which might put undue pressure on him

382
00:25:15,922 --> 00:25:19,793
to do something, and him falling
through the frame to his death.

383
00:25:24,530 --> 00:25:30,734
And we have to work through that and understand
that what we're doing is something that

384
00:25:30,736 --> 00:25:32,939
we can live with even in
a worst-case scenario.

385
00:25:40,280 --> 00:25:43,381
TOMMY: It's a funny thing, people who know
a little bit about climbing, they're like,

386
00:25:43,383 --> 00:25:46,483
"Oh, he says he has it,
he's, he's totally safe."

387
00:25:46,485 --> 00:25:50,957
And then people who really know exactly
what he's doing are freaked out.

388
00:25:51,325 --> 00:25:54,325
My dad was always like, "I don't
want you to go ice climbing.

389
00:25:54,327 --> 00:25:57,364
I don't want you to
free solo," you know.

390
00:25:57,797 --> 00:25:59,262
ALEX: Just not, I wonder
if your dad had been like.

391
00:25:59,264 --> 00:26:02,566
TOMMY: When he was my age, he had
had like 20 or 30 friends that had

392
00:26:02,568 --> 00:26:04,000
died in the mountains.

393
00:26:04,002 --> 00:26:06,604
And now I'm at that point where
I've had, you know, 30 or 40 friends

394
00:26:06,606 --> 00:26:08,338
that have died
in the mountains.

395
00:26:08,340 --> 00:26:09,874
ALEX: That many?

396
00:26:09,876 --> 00:26:11,474
TOMMY: Yeah, I counted
them a while ago.

397
00:26:11,476 --> 00:26:13,042
I mean, like not friends
but people in our community.

398
00:26:13,044 --> 00:26:16,446
ALEX: Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally,
like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently.

399
00:26:16,448 --> 00:26:18,749
TOMMY: People that I have
met, yeah, I'm like, no, yeah.

400
00:26:18,751 --> 00:26:21,585
I haven't had anybody die who I was,
like, really, really, close to yet.

401
00:26:21,587 --> 00:26:25,259
ALEX: Uh-hmm. Uh-hmm.
I don't know.

402
00:26:25,791 --> 00:26:30,627
TOMMY: I think everybody who has made
free soloing a big part of their life,

403
00:26:30,629 --> 00:26:32,665
is dead now.

404
00:26:33,465 --> 00:26:36,869
REPORTER (OVER TV): <i>John Bachar was a
pioneer of so-called free solo climbing,</i>

405
00:26:37,236 --> 00:26:41,571
<i>he fell to his death this past
week at the age of 52 from a cliff.</i>

406
00:26:41,573 --> 00:26:43,641
REPORTER 2 (OVER TV): <i>And we're sorry
to have to report on the death of</i>

407
00:26:43,643 --> 00:26:45,976
<i>U.S. Climber Sean Leary.</i>

408
00:26:45,978 --> 00:26:49,113
<i>Sean was killed in Utah and
was found a couple of days ago.</i>

409
00:26:49,115 --> 00:26:51,816
REPORTER 3 (OVER TV): <i>Derek Hersey
was climbing in Yosemite Valley.</i>

410
00:26:51,818 --> 00:26:54,354
<i>His body was found
Saturday morning.</i>

411
00:26:54,686 --> 00:26:57,988
<i>Hersey climbed, as usual,
alone without ropes.</i>

412
00:26:57,990 --> 00:26:59,990
TOMMY: Most people that
are pushing the limits,

413
00:26:59,992 --> 00:27:04,463
they have this mentality of "Screw
it, whatever happens, happens."

414
00:27:27,419 --> 00:27:31,023
I think all the soloing he's
done has trained his mind.

415
00:27:31,257 --> 00:27:35,629
He doesn't get emotionally affected
by it the way that a lot of people do.

416
00:27:36,396 --> 00:27:39,163
And not knowing about the science
of that is that's probably a product

417
00:27:39,165 --> 00:27:43,069
of your past more than
it is just a genetic thing.

418
00:27:45,937 --> 00:27:48,873
ALEX: There's been a lot of speculation
about, like, how I deal with fear and,

419
00:27:48,875 --> 00:27:51,040
like, how I'm
able to free solo.

420
00:27:51,042 --> 00:27:53,877
People are just like, "Oh, well,
he must be a thrill seeker.

421
00:27:53,879 --> 00:27:56,582
There must be
something defective."

422
00:27:59,786 --> 00:28:01,152
So when a writer
contacted me about doing an

423
00:28:01,154 --> 00:28:05,588
MRI, I thought it's kind of cool
just to go and get an MRI and, like,

424
00:28:05,590 --> 00:28:07,090
see what's actually going on.

425
00:28:07,092 --> 00:28:10,529
You know, scan your brain and then
see if it's all there structurally.

426
00:28:13,566 --> 00:28:15,165
DOCTOR: We're gonna
start the task now.

427
00:28:15,167 --> 00:28:19,002
Remember to press the button every time
you see a new picture come up, okay?

428
00:28:19,004 --> 00:28:20,873
ALEX (OVER COMPUTER):
<i>Okay.</i>

429
00:28:23,475 --> 00:28:26,676
We'll see maybe it turns out I'm some
kind of freak creature or something.

430
00:28:26,678 --> 00:28:29,046
I've had several ex-girlfriends
said that I have personality

431
00:28:29,048 --> 00:28:30,980
disorders or things like that.

432
00:28:30,982 --> 00:28:32,782
That there's something
wrong with me.

433
00:28:32,784 --> 00:28:34,884
Emotionally stable?

434
00:28:34,886 --> 00:28:36,186
Agree.

435
00:28:36,188 --> 00:28:38,689
Ingenious, a deep thinker?

436
00:28:38,691 --> 00:28:40,524
Disagree.

437
00:28:40,526 --> 00:28:41,925
Tends to find
fault with others?

438
00:28:41,927 --> 00:28:43,727
Agree somewhat.

439
00:28:43,729 --> 00:28:46,497
Climbing a steep mountain
would be too scary for me?

440
00:28:46,499 --> 00:28:48,665
I have trouble
controlling my impulses?

441
00:28:48,667 --> 00:28:51,734
Is depressed?

442
00:28:51,736 --> 00:28:54,940
Hmm.

443
00:28:55,508 --> 00:28:57,540
Is my, is my brain intact?

444
00:28:57,542 --> 00:29:00,076
JANE: Your brain's intact and
it's, it's quite interesting.

445
00:29:00,078 --> 00:29:03,980
Those little two dots that are
further towards the top of the screen,

446
00:29:03,982 --> 00:29:06,520
that's the amygdala.

447
00:29:07,953 --> 00:29:13,156
So an interesting thing, do you
have no activation in your amygdala?

448
00:29:13,158 --> 00:29:16,061
ALEX: There's just not much
going on in my brain, it seems.

449
00:29:16,962 --> 00:29:20,564
Um, do you think my amygdala actually
just doesn't work or something?

450
00:29:20,566 --> 00:29:25,439
JANE: Your amygdala works, it's just that it
needs a much higher level of stimulation.

451
00:29:26,873 --> 00:29:31,275
Things that are typically stimulating
for most of the rest of us are

452
00:29:31,277 --> 00:29:33,277
not really doing it for you.

453
00:29:33,279 --> 00:29:35,712
ALEX: Maybe my amygdala's
just tired, you know,

454
00:29:35,714 --> 00:29:38,819
from too many years
of being all gripped.

455
00:30:07,178 --> 00:30:11,217
I'm feeling quite fit, but, um, there's
such a mental component to free soloing.

456
00:30:12,385 --> 00:30:16,886
The big challenge is
controlling your mind, I guess.

457
00:30:16,888 --> 00:30:19,289
Because you're not, you're not controlling
your fear, you're sort of just trying

458
00:30:19,291 --> 00:30:22,127
to step outside of it.

459
00:30:24,696 --> 00:30:27,700
SANNI: Oh, no,
woo, sorry, Alex!

460
00:30:28,033 --> 00:30:31,201
ALEX: And when people talk about
trying to suppress your fear, I mean,

461
00:30:31,203 --> 00:30:33,804
I look at it in
a different way.

462
00:30:33,806 --> 00:30:38,107
I try to expand my comfort zone by
practicing the moves over and over again.

463
00:30:38,109 --> 00:30:41,247
I work through the fear, until
it's just not scary anymore.

464
00:30:43,715 --> 00:30:45,214
SANNI: Oh, no, no, no, no.

465
00:30:45,216 --> 00:30:48,554
Oh, so slippery.

466
00:30:48,820 --> 00:30:53,126
ALEX: But, um, for years Freeblast
has given me the heebie-jeebies.

467
00:30:54,159 --> 00:30:59,965
You're standing on tiny edges, small
variations in the texture of the rock.

468
00:31:00,832 --> 00:31:04,634
If you slip, your
hands can't hold you.

469
00:31:04,636 --> 00:31:08,806
It's just the two tiny points of
contact that keep you from falling, and

470
00:31:08,808 --> 00:31:12,546
when you step up,
there's only one.

471
00:31:12,944 --> 00:31:15,314
Oh.

472
00:31:23,254 --> 00:31:29,662
It's like, it looks so much better
today than yesterday, but we'll see.

473
00:31:32,697 --> 00:31:35,999
I probably fell about 30 feet.

474
00:31:36,001 --> 00:31:40,304
We're up there, we're roped up, Sanni's
belaying me, and then I just fell off,

475
00:31:40,306 --> 00:31:41,471
I don't know.

476
00:31:41,473 --> 00:31:44,173
I just, I don't even know
how, I just, like, fell off.

477
00:31:44,175 --> 00:31:45,942
DOCTOR: Show me how much you
can go up and down on your own.

478
00:31:45,944 --> 00:31:48,945
It's, it's like, you know.

479
00:31:48,947 --> 00:31:51,214
I think this looks to me just like
your straightforward ankle sprain.

480
00:31:51,216 --> 00:31:52,583
Okay.

481
00:31:52,585 --> 00:31:54,884
So, you know, we say ankle sprain,
but more or less an ankle sprain

482
00:31:54,886 --> 00:31:56,019
is torn ligaments.

483
00:31:56,021 --> 00:31:57,422
- Yeah.
- That's what it is.

484
00:31:57,424 --> 00:31:58,789
...So what does that mean in terms
of, uh, like hiking and stuff?

485
00:31:58,791 --> 00:32:02,092
I mean, if I just, like, immobilize
it and then, uh, still just hike.

486
00:32:02,094 --> 00:32:04,127
Yeah, I mean, you gotta' get
yourself through the first few days.

487
00:32:04,129 --> 00:32:05,363
Yeah.

488
00:32:05,365 --> 00:32:06,696
Um, but after that and it's
just strengthening and rehab.

489
00:32:06,698 --> 00:32:09,666
Well, and actually, can I make
it worse really, through activity?

490
00:32:09,668 --> 00:32:14,107
Um, you could probably
do too much too soon.

491
00:32:21,379 --> 00:32:23,881
Wait, you don't need
to keep that right.

492
00:32:23,883 --> 00:32:26,450
SANNI: I can worry as
much as I want internally,

493
00:32:26,452 --> 00:32:30,453
but if he doesn't do
this stuff he'd regret it.

494
00:32:30,455 --> 00:32:35,259
If Alex and I got married and had kids,
I would feel a lot more willing to say

495
00:32:35,261 --> 00:32:40,029
what I thought about what
was acceptable risk or not.

496
00:32:40,031 --> 00:32:42,301
He should have
put his shoe on.

497
00:32:45,171 --> 00:32:48,141
PRODUCER: Stubborn.
SANNI: Stubborn.

498
00:32:55,280 --> 00:32:59,048
I thought you were, you know, walking
and stuff now, I thought you're fine.

499
00:32:59,050 --> 00:33:00,351
ALEX: Oh, I am, but what.

500
00:33:00,353 --> 00:33:02,786
SANNI: Doctors said you were
supposed to push it, Alex, come on.

501
00:33:02,788 --> 00:33:04,354
ALEX: Don't you want
some watermelon?

502
00:33:04,356 --> 00:33:07,490
SANNI: Oh, well, good thing you have
a personal slave to do that for you.

503
00:33:07,492 --> 00:33:09,859
ALEX: Uh-huh, I know, I'm
pretty stoked about that.

504
00:33:09,861 --> 00:33:12,762
SANNI: All right, um, is it gonna be that
no matter how I do this, you're like,

505
00:33:12,764 --> 00:33:14,298
"Why did you do it that way?"

506
00:33:14,300 --> 00:33:15,932
ALEX: I just want watermelon.

507
00:33:15,934 --> 00:33:17,901
I kind of wanted to blame
Sanni to some extent because

508
00:33:17,903 --> 00:33:19,336
you're just like, "Whatever."

509
00:33:19,338 --> 00:33:20,871
I haven't been injured in, like,
seven years and then it's like I'm

510
00:33:20,873 --> 00:33:23,774
hanging out with this girl that doesn't
climb and I suddenly start getting

511
00:33:23,776 --> 00:33:25,209
injured all the time.

512
00:33:25,211 --> 00:33:27,780
It's like you just
cut down a tree.

513
00:33:36,355 --> 00:33:41,191
DIERDRE: When they say "active recovery,"
no, that doesn't mean you're walking

514
00:33:41,193 --> 00:33:44,097
all over the place.

515
00:33:44,297 --> 00:33:48,233
I would be happy if
he didn't free solo.

516
00:33:49,234 --> 00:33:53,804
I've always appreciated that he never
told me beforehand that he was gonna

517
00:33:53,806 --> 00:33:55,772
free solo or anything.

518
00:33:55,774 --> 00:33:58,842
I could come down on him and say,
"You shouldn't be doing that,"

519
00:33:58,844 --> 00:34:01,878
and alienate him,
and, uh, it would've alienated

520
00:34:01,880 --> 00:34:04,480
him because that's
his, uh, whole life.

521
00:34:04,482 --> 00:34:07,984
I think when he's free soloing,
that's when he feels the most alive,

522
00:34:07,986 --> 00:34:10,220
the most everything, the most.

523
00:34:10,222 --> 00:34:11,754
Feels the most.

524
00:34:11,756 --> 00:34:16,125
And how can you even think about taking
that away from somebody, you know?

525
00:34:16,127 --> 00:34:18,198
I wouldn't.

526
00:34:28,274 --> 00:34:31,107
ALEX: I've been able to stand on one foot
while I put my harness and my shoes and

527
00:34:31,109 --> 00:34:34,347
stuff on, and getting' this
like kind of, a minor victory.

528
00:34:36,582 --> 00:34:40,183
Um, I haven't put on my climbing
shoe basically since I did it.

529
00:34:40,185 --> 00:34:43,222
So swollen. So tender.

530
00:34:47,258 --> 00:34:51,861
Unfortunately, crack climbing
is all ankle-dependent.

531
00:34:51,863 --> 00:34:57,700
And Freerider is 3,000
feet of crack climbing.

532
00:34:57,702 --> 00:35:00,270
All my friends that have sprained
their ankles in serious ways have

533
00:35:00,272 --> 00:35:05,411
all been like, "Oh, it's gonna be at
least six months until it's normal."

534
00:35:06,111 --> 00:35:08,245
If I can't get this
done in the next month

535
00:35:08,247 --> 00:35:12,085
then the weather will change and
I'll have to wait until next year.

536
00:35:23,461 --> 00:35:26,897
TOMMY: You know, a couple years ago,
I remember him telling me that he had never

537
00:35:26,899 --> 00:35:31,200
fallen unexpectedly in his life,
and now I've seen it happen twice

538
00:35:31,202 --> 00:35:33,470
in the past, like, month.

539
00:35:33,472 --> 00:35:36,508
But when you hear stuff like that,
you start to wonder a little bit.

540
00:35:37,776 --> 00:35:41,410
I had this dream the night before
he called me that he had, like,

541
00:35:41,412 --> 00:35:44,413
wandered into our house and asked
us, and, like, started crying,

542
00:35:44,415 --> 00:35:46,616
which really freaked me out
'cause Alex doesn't cry.

543
00:35:46,618 --> 00:35:50,354
And then he had told me that he
fell free soloing and started, like,

544
00:35:50,356 --> 00:35:53,924
revealing all of his injuries, like
he pulled up his sleeve on his arm,

545
00:35:53,926 --> 00:35:57,426
and in my dream a bone just, like, fell
out of his arm and it was all messed up.

546
00:35:57,428 --> 00:36:02,265
And that, and it was this really, like,
kind of vivid, but super freaky dream.

547
00:36:02,267 --> 00:36:06,205
And, uh, and then the next day he
called me and told me he hurt himself.

548
00:36:07,171 --> 00:36:09,006
SANNI: Hi, hi, Ingrid.

549
00:36:09,008 --> 00:36:11,174
REBECCA: Sometimes,
one at a time.

550
00:36:11,176 --> 00:36:12,676
Hi, hello, how's it going?

551
00:36:12,678 --> 00:36:15,678
- Hi, guys. -What's up, Fitz!
- So we got Fitz.

552
00:36:15,680 --> 00:36:18,048
- Hi, Tommy, hi, Fitz!
- Are you gonna carve a pumpkin?

553
00:36:18,050 --> 00:36:19,950
Nice, that's good.

554
00:36:19,952 --> 00:36:21,517
That seems off.

555
00:36:21,519 --> 00:36:23,252
(INAUDIBLE).

556
00:36:23,254 --> 00:36:24,555
Eww.

557
00:36:24,557 --> 00:36:27,024
SANNI: Alex said, "I want nothing
to do with the pumpkin carving,

558
00:36:27,026 --> 00:36:28,625
and I won't carve anything
and I hate holidays."

559
00:36:28,627 --> 00:36:30,394
ALEX: I like having
fun when I have fun.

560
00:36:30,396 --> 00:36:33,932
I don't like being told
that it's time to have fun.

561
00:36:34,133 --> 00:36:37,203
JIMMY: Yeah, I think we need
to (INAUDIBLE) a little more.

562
00:36:37,535 --> 00:36:38,634
Whoa, she's squirming.

563
00:36:38,636 --> 00:36:40,703
I don't know. Do you have
a good grip on there?

564
00:36:40,705 --> 00:36:43,573
ALEX: You put that in my eye
again, I'm gonna drop you.

565
00:36:43,575 --> 00:36:46,042
Why does it not
want to see us?

566
00:36:46,044 --> 00:36:47,144
Just kidding, I won't.

567
00:36:47,146 --> 00:36:48,645
He keeps.

568
00:36:48,647 --> 00:36:50,080
You gotta lift him
up more, you need to.

569
00:36:50,082 --> 00:36:51,615
Bye, Tom.

570
00:36:51,617 --> 00:36:53,283
Oh man, you should have
a lot of fear right now.

571
00:36:53,285 --> 00:36:55,151
ALEX: Okay, 'cause' I
feel a lot of anxiety.

572
00:36:55,153 --> 00:36:58,254
No one in any part of my family has
hugged during all my formative years.

573
00:36:58,256 --> 00:37:01,625
I had to teach myself how to hug
when I was, like, 23 or something.

574
00:37:01,627 --> 00:37:03,426
'Cause I was like,
"Everyone seems to hug,

575
00:37:03,428 --> 00:37:05,028
that seems like something
I should get into,"

576
00:37:05,030 --> 00:37:07,263
and then I started,
like, practicing.

577
00:37:07,265 --> 00:37:08,665
Now I'm quite a good hugger.

578
00:37:08,667 --> 00:37:10,200
Yes.

579
00:37:10,202 --> 00:37:11,600
You see that the
pumpkin is a van?

580
00:37:11,602 --> 00:37:13,337
- I did see it.
- That's a precious van.

581
00:37:13,339 --> 00:37:14,537
Is it a cat?

582
00:37:14,539 --> 00:37:16,305
- I did the cat. -That's good.
- Look at that.

583
00:37:16,307 --> 00:37:17,975
Um, I did it all by my.

584
00:37:17,977 --> 00:37:19,343
Honestly, it does
look good like this.

585
00:37:19,345 --> 00:37:21,144
It looked terrible.

586
00:37:21,146 --> 00:37:22,745
I think, yeah.

587
00:37:22,747 --> 00:37:26,082
ALEX: Part of the thing with the L word,
you know, is saying love and stuff,

588
00:37:26,084 --> 00:37:29,419
is that, like, in my entire life no one
in any part of my family has ever used,

589
00:37:29,421 --> 00:37:31,524
you know, that word.

590
00:37:35,627 --> 00:37:38,294
My Mom has only spoken French to
my sister and I our whole lives.

591
00:37:38,296 --> 00:37:41,031
She's a French teacher, so she
says, "Je t'aime" or whatever,

592
00:37:41,033 --> 00:37:45,071
and then my dad didn't
talk about anything.

593
00:37:45,370 --> 00:37:48,705
DIERDRE: Nobody had an
emotional bond with Charlie.

594
00:37:48,707 --> 00:37:52,345
Charlie was probably what
we call nowadays Asperger's.

595
00:37:55,113 --> 00:37:57,747
Charlie's obsession, what
everyone called monomania.

596
00:37:57,749 --> 00:37:59,549
He loved to travel.

597
00:37:59,551 --> 00:38:01,955
He lived to travel like
Alex lives to climb.

598
00:38:02,821 --> 00:38:05,691
When he wasn't traveling,
things were not good.

599
00:38:06,591 --> 00:38:09,558
Alex would do something and
we'd call him stupid names,

600
00:38:09,560 --> 00:38:13,499
"Hey, bozo, don't do it like
that," just demeaning things.

601
00:38:13,999 --> 00:38:18,067
If you learn that about your
self-worth when you're this big,

602
00:38:18,069 --> 00:38:21,207
I don't think that goes away.

603
00:38:21,874 --> 00:38:25,444
ALEX: I have no
recollection of that.

604
00:38:25,812 --> 00:38:28,111
I don't think my dad
put down anybody.

605
00:38:28,113 --> 00:38:32,452
I think my dad is like a teddy
bear, but dad was pretty morose.

606
00:38:34,819 --> 00:38:37,421
And then the thing is once they got
divorced, then they both were, like,

607
00:38:37,423 --> 00:38:40,593
so much happier and it all seemed
great, but he died the next summer.

608
00:38:41,794 --> 00:38:46,729
It's really kind of too bad that he
doesn't get to see how it all played out,

609
00:38:46,731 --> 00:38:51,003
'cause he put so much effort
into nurturing my climbing.

610
00:38:53,539 --> 00:38:54,939
But who knows?

611
00:38:54,941 --> 00:38:58,774
Maybe mom thought that he was, like,
holding us back or, like, you know,

612
00:38:58,776 --> 00:39:02,078
not pushing us to achieve our
full potential or, like, whatever,

613
00:39:02,080 --> 00:39:04,216
you know what I mean?

614
00:39:04,517 --> 00:39:07,584
My Mom's favorite sayings
are, "Presque ne compte pas,"

615
00:39:07,586 --> 00:39:11,491
"Almost doesn't count,"
or, uh, "Good enough isn't."

616
00:39:11,857 --> 00:39:14,493
No matter how well I ever do at
anything, it's not that good.

617
00:39:20,432 --> 00:39:23,636
The bottomless pit
of self-loathing.

618
00:39:25,604 --> 00:39:30,410
I mean, that's definitely the
motivation for some soloing.

619
00:39:40,218 --> 00:39:42,287
Here we are.

620
00:39:43,088 --> 00:39:45,187
TOMMY: So I still
never, like, quietly,

621
00:39:45,189 --> 00:39:47,290
quite understand what
happened when you fell, you,

622
00:39:47,292 --> 00:39:48,825
like, do you even know?

623
00:39:48,827 --> 00:39:50,359
It should be just kinda, like.

624
00:39:50,361 --> 00:39:52,428
ALEX: Uh, I don't know why I fell off,
but I mean I know that my skin was,

625
00:39:52,430 --> 00:39:53,663
like, hard and dry.

626
00:39:53,665 --> 00:39:54,865
It was like lightly raining
kind of and like really windy.

627
00:39:54,867 --> 00:39:58,638
TOMMY: Weird he doesn't even
say he knows what happened.

628
00:39:58,870 --> 00:40:02,305
He's like, "I, suddenly I was falling,"
which kind of surprised me because I feel

629
00:40:02,307 --> 00:40:04,808
like he's always so aware.

630
00:40:04,810 --> 00:40:07,713
Or like maybe he's not
always totally aware.

631
00:40:08,580 --> 00:40:13,250
You know Alex talks about having this
armor when he solos and I think as, like,

632
00:40:13,252 --> 00:40:16,622
a friend or a family member of him,
you kinda have to have that same thing.

633
00:40:21,660 --> 00:40:25,865
Like after that happened, for whatever reason,
it kinda like waked me up more than normal.

634
00:40:26,832 --> 00:40:29,165
You know, normally I'm just
like, "Oh, he's got it.

635
00:40:29,167 --> 00:40:31,167
He's such, he's such a beast,
you know, he's gonna be fine."

636
00:40:31,169 --> 00:40:37,140
But I just, like,

637
00:40:37,142 --> 00:40:41,446
am stressed out about the
thing a little bit, you know?

638
00:40:45,350 --> 00:40:49,553
ALEX: Look, I don't wanna fall off and
die either, but there's a satisfaction to

639
00:40:49,555 --> 00:40:53,259
challenging yourself and
doing something well.

640
00:40:53,993 --> 00:40:57,560
That feeling is heightened when
you're for sure facing death.

641
00:40:57,562 --> 00:41:00,665
You can't make a mistake.

642
00:41:01,133 --> 00:41:06,435
If you're seeking perfection, free
soloing is as close as you can get.

643
00:41:06,437 --> 00:41:11,376
And, uh, it does feel good to feel
perfect, like, for a brief moment.

644
00:41:15,280 --> 00:41:18,515
My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible,"
but if I kill myself in an accident,

645
00:41:18,517 --> 00:41:22,419
they'll be like, "Oh, that was too
bad," but like life goes on, you know,

646
00:41:22,421 --> 00:41:23,754
like they'll be fine.

647
00:41:23,756 --> 00:41:25,254
I mean, and I've had this problem
with girls a lot, you know.

648
00:41:25,256 --> 00:41:28,558
They're like, "Oh, I really care
about you," I'm like, "No you don't."

649
00:41:28,560 --> 00:41:30,192
Like if I perish,
like, it doesn't matter,

650
00:41:30,194 --> 00:41:33,729
like you'll find somebody else, like,
that's not, that's not that big a deal.

651
00:41:33,731 --> 00:41:36,434
I don't know.

652
00:41:36,834 --> 00:41:39,771
Maybe that's a
little too callous.

653
00:41:45,010 --> 00:41:49,515
My foot is improving, but
it still swells up a bit.

654
00:41:53,517 --> 00:41:56,454
Rope!

655
00:42:01,660 --> 00:42:04,326
Pretty epic rappel.

656
00:42:04,328 --> 00:42:07,200
Uh, we're just commuting
down the wall, kinda.

657
00:42:07,667 --> 00:42:09,969
We're just having
a good old time.

658
00:42:11,102 --> 00:42:14,504
If you look at soloing El Cap objectively,
there are probably six pitches that

659
00:42:14,506 --> 00:42:17,307
worry me the most.

660
00:42:17,309 --> 00:42:19,843
Just off the ground, there's
some insecure climbing.

661
00:42:19,845 --> 00:42:22,479
And then Freeblast, Pitch 6,
being the one I fell off of,

662
00:42:22,481 --> 00:42:25,381
which is obviously
a total botch.

663
00:42:25,383 --> 00:42:28,752
Then the down climb
to the Hollow Flake.

664
00:42:28,754 --> 00:42:31,754
And then
the Monster Offwidth,

665
00:42:31,756 --> 00:42:34,559
which is super physical,
difficult style of climbing.

666
00:42:38,664 --> 00:42:41,798
When you're in the Monster Offwidth,
some part of you is always being

667
00:42:41,800 --> 00:42:44,569
crushed in the mountain.

668
00:42:45,269 --> 00:42:48,904
Imagine like the worst type of
Pilates class in the whole world,

669
00:42:48,906 --> 00:42:52,308
somebody like flogging as you do it,
and occasionally like sandpapering skin

670
00:42:52,310 --> 00:42:56,716
off your body, telling you to hold
the position until you freakin' vomit,

671
00:42:57,082 --> 00:43:00,653
and if you lose the
position you die.

672
00:43:04,388 --> 00:43:08,457
The Enduro Corner, in and of itself,
would have been the most difficult part of

673
00:43:08,459 --> 00:43:10,495
virtually any big
solo I've done.

674
00:43:15,533 --> 00:43:18,535
Your feet aren't on
any specific holds.

675
00:43:18,537 --> 00:43:20,703
What makes your feet stay to the wall
is the amount of pressure that you

676
00:43:20,705 --> 00:43:23,776
pull with your hands.

677
00:43:24,443 --> 00:43:27,644
The harder you pull with your
hands, the more your feet stick.

678
00:43:27,646 --> 00:43:31,050
The most demanding for your
arms on the whole route.

679
00:43:31,582 --> 00:43:35,887
And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the
Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued.

680
00:43:39,057 --> 00:43:42,962
But the piece that I've always worried about
the most is the crux, the hardest part.

681
00:43:43,995 --> 00:43:49,501
To get past the crux, you have climb either
the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner.

682
00:43:50,002 --> 00:43:54,006
2,000 off the ground, each of which
I've fallen off many times with a rope.

683
00:43:59,678 --> 00:44:02,781
The Teflon Corner, which is basically
like a 90-degree corner of glass,

684
00:44:03,182 --> 00:44:07,086
which is ultra-slippery,
just fills me with terror.

685
00:44:07,785 --> 00:44:11,888
Pushing against the two walls of it,
with my feet on glass, my palms on glass,

686
00:44:11,890 --> 00:44:14,857
and trying to make these little micro
adjustments to keep my balance centered so

687
00:44:14,859 --> 00:44:17,761
that I can push evenly
on all four sides of it.

688
00:44:17,763 --> 00:44:20,930
And then I imagine 2,500 feet of
air beneath my feet, you're, like,

689
00:44:20,932 --> 00:44:24,035
that's just a crazy
thing to think about.

690
00:44:26,037 --> 00:44:29,341
The alternative is
the Boulder Problem.

691
00:44:30,508 --> 00:44:33,078
But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot
section that's incredibly difficult.

692
00:44:36,580 --> 00:44:39,482
It's a very
intricate sequence.

693
00:44:39,484 --> 00:44:43,556
You've got your right hand on a
crimp, left hand on a side pole,

694
00:44:44,089 --> 00:44:47,493
and then you put your right foot
onto this dimple thing.

695
00:44:47,926 --> 00:44:51,731
Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling
crimp, left foot goes into a little dish,

696
00:44:54,031 --> 00:44:57,466
and then you drive up off the
left foot into the thumb press.

697
00:44:57,468 --> 00:44:59,602
That's the worst hold
on the entire route.

698
00:44:59,604 --> 00:45:02,508
So, you get maybe half
your thumb on the hold.

699
00:45:02,975 --> 00:45:07,480
Then you roll your two fingers
over the thumb, switch your feet,

700
00:45:08,647 --> 00:45:11,784
left foot stems out to this
really bad sloping black foothold.

701
00:45:14,618 --> 00:45:17,455
Switch your thumbs.

702
00:45:19,723 --> 00:45:22,991
And then reach out left to a big
sloping bread loaf type hold that

703
00:45:22,993 --> 00:45:25,964
feels kind of grainy.

704
00:45:27,165 --> 00:45:31,836
From there, you either karate kick or
double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall.

705
00:45:34,872 --> 00:45:38,540
In some ways, it makes more sense to do the
big two-handed jump because you're jumping to

706
00:45:38,542 --> 00:45:41,881
a good edge so there's
actually something to catch.

707
00:45:47,986 --> 00:45:51,089
But the idea of jumping without a
rope seems completely outrageous,

708
00:45:51,289 --> 00:45:54,626
if you miss it, that's that.

709
00:45:56,095 --> 00:46:00,566
But then the karate kick always feels
like you're falling into the other wall,

710
00:46:00,798 --> 00:46:04,035
which also feels
outrageous for soloing.

711
00:46:19,818 --> 00:46:23,086
Honestly, it wasn't like, I mean I
felt, like, pretty strong just pinching

712
00:46:23,088 --> 00:46:24,720
that shit and just
being that, put the foot.

713
00:46:24,722 --> 00:46:26,855
MIKEY: Well, as I said, when you actually
put your foot out there, I was like,

714
00:46:26,857 --> 00:46:27,890
"Well, that doesn't
look that bad."

715
00:46:27,892 --> 00:46:32,630
ALEX: Yeah, it's not
like crazy, but we'll see.

716
00:46:38,537 --> 00:46:40,169
SANNI: Did you take
Ibuprofen this morning?

717
00:46:40,171 --> 00:46:42,839
ALEX: Uh-hmm, I mean, I'm
going to right now also.

718
00:46:42,841 --> 00:46:44,874
- For your ankle?
- Uh-hmm.

719
00:46:44,876 --> 00:46:51,216
Hmm, I'm not, like, super stoked when
he goes soloing, because he's already a

720
00:46:52,082 --> 00:46:55,551
big part of my life.

721
00:46:55,553 --> 00:47:00,258
I tell Alex I love him all the time, and
he shows me that he loves me all the time.

722
00:47:02,093 --> 00:47:03,959
And really just dive in.

723
00:47:03,961 --> 00:47:05,194
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

724
00:47:05,196 --> 00:47:07,296
But I also tell him that I
also need words of affection.

725
00:47:07,298 --> 00:47:10,101
- Yeah.
- We work on that.

726
00:47:11,569 --> 00:47:15,975
In terms of learning how to communicate
emotion, Alex has a long way to go.

727
00:47:16,542 --> 00:47:22,145
And I said, "Sometimes I'm gonna tell you
how I feel, and I just need you to say it

728
00:47:22,147 --> 00:47:24,850
totally makes sense
that you feel that way."

729
00:47:25,584 --> 00:47:28,821
He was like, "Yeah, I can
understand why you feel that way."

730
00:47:30,155 --> 00:47:32,955
I was like, "I don't
really think that you do,

731
00:47:32,957 --> 00:47:35,860
but I'm glad
that you're trying."

732
00:47:37,629 --> 00:47:39,962
Alex, we have
excellent team skills.

733
00:47:39,964 --> 00:47:42,230
ALEX: Well, I thought, I feel like
we're not quite killin' it, but we're,

734
00:47:42,232 --> 00:47:43,700
I think we're doin' well.

735
00:47:43,702 --> 00:47:46,102
SANNI: Really?
I think we're doing great.

736
00:47:46,104 --> 00:47:49,675
TOMMY: I'm very happy for Alex
and Sanni that it works so well.

737
00:47:50,307 --> 00:47:53,311
And I'm, I think I'm just
impressed by their relationship,

738
00:47:55,814 --> 00:47:59,852
but to free solo at that level, you
really have to have the mental armor.

739
00:48:00,919 --> 00:48:04,290
Having that romantic relationship
around is detrimental to that armor.

740
00:48:05,223 --> 00:48:08,758
You have to focus and inherently
a close romantic relationship

741
00:48:08,760 --> 00:48:10,125
removes that armor.

742
00:48:10,127 --> 00:48:13,598
You kinda can't have
both at the same time.

743
00:48:35,252 --> 00:48:39,689
♪ ♪

744
00:48:39,691 --> 00:48:41,957
ALEX: There's always something that
has to give you the confidence to

745
00:48:41,959 --> 00:48:44,127
go out and free solo a route.

746
00:48:44,129 --> 00:48:48,000
So sometimes, that confidence just
comes from feeling super, super fit.

747
00:48:48,200 --> 00:48:51,669
Sometimes, that confidence comes
through preparation and rehearsal.

748
00:48:52,336 --> 00:48:55,106
But I mean there's always something
that makes you feel ready.

749
00:49:02,747 --> 00:49:04,913
There's something to be said for, like,
soloing a bunch of pitches to, like,

750
00:49:04,915 --> 00:49:08,287
get into that right space.

751
00:49:10,689 --> 00:49:12,758
It's a little stressful.

752
00:49:13,091 --> 00:49:16,692
It's just, it's unreal.

753
00:49:16,694 --> 00:49:18,328
Yeah.

754
00:49:18,330 --> 00:49:21,730
JIMMY: And as much as I trust Alex and
I know that he's really methodical, uh,

755
00:49:21,732 --> 00:49:24,903
if you're pushing the edge,
eventually you find the edge.

756
00:49:28,339 --> 00:49:29,939
ALEX: But then there's just some
things that you're, like, well,

757
00:49:29,941 --> 00:49:33,475
you just have to push that far because
they're just, they're just that cool.

758
00:49:33,477 --> 00:49:36,280
And El Cap is that cool.

759
00:49:39,184 --> 00:49:42,655
PETER: There's incremental advances
that happen in all kinds of things,

760
00:49:43,055 --> 00:49:46,825
but every once in a while there's
just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap,

761
00:49:47,258 --> 00:49:50,796
if he pulls this off,
is this quantum leap.

762
00:49:51,629 --> 00:49:55,800
It is hard to imagine somebody up
there by themselves, without a rope,

763
00:49:56,167 --> 00:49:58,334
where it's pretty much all the
other big cliffs around here.

764
00:49:58,336 --> 00:50:01,040
I can kinda get it.

765
00:50:01,606 --> 00:50:03,872
ALEX: How many times have you
soloed both those routes now?

766
00:50:03,874 --> 00:50:08,009
PETER: Well, Astroman, three or four
times, but the Rostrum, I mean, literally,

767
00:50:08,011 --> 00:50:10,113
like, fifty, sixty.

768
00:50:10,115 --> 00:50:12,350
ALEX: Wait, you've soloed
the Rostrum 50 or 60 times?

769
00:50:12,984 --> 00:50:14,984
PETER: It was like part
of the circuit and I would,

770
00:50:14,986 --> 00:50:17,120
I would go there and I
would do it at least twice.

771
00:50:17,122 --> 00:50:19,390
Like I was just glommed on.

772
00:50:19,656 --> 00:50:20,890
Uh-huh.

773
00:50:20,892 --> 00:50:22,258
Not like I had a fear, but
just kind of like this is how.

774
00:50:22,260 --> 00:50:24,526
Yeah, because you're so tight. You
know, I love that about soloing.

775
00:50:24,528 --> 00:50:26,428
My footwork gets really good.

776
00:50:26,430 --> 00:50:27,997
Yeah, really,
yeah totally, yeah.

777
00:50:27,999 --> 00:50:30,299
But it's not for anybody
else, this is just for me.

778
00:50:30,301 --> 00:50:32,033
Yeah, yeah, just because
you feel like you're.

779
00:50:32,035 --> 00:50:33,770
And after Astroman,
people were like,

780
00:50:33,772 --> 00:50:35,337
"Ah, we wanna film
you, film you up there,"

781
00:50:35,339 --> 00:50:38,276
and I'm like, "Not interested,
not even slightly."

782
00:50:38,477 --> 00:50:42,145
For me, it was so incredibly important
to be doing it for the right reasons.

783
00:50:42,147 --> 00:50:45,180
ALEX: I mean, I think I'm still doing
everything for the right reasons,

784
00:50:45,182 --> 00:50:48,417
and I'm still totally stoked, but I feel
like from the outside observer, you know,

785
00:50:48,419 --> 00:50:51,787
they'd be like, "Oh, he's got a
movie crew," like clearly that's the

786
00:50:51,789 --> 00:50:53,423
wrong reasons, you know.

787
00:50:53,425 --> 00:50:59,031
PETER: The worst thing about having a
film crew is if it changes your mindset.

788
00:51:09,140 --> 00:51:12,077
JIMMY: I think Alex is
almost ready to do it.

789
00:51:12,310 --> 00:51:15,347
He just wants to take
a few more practice laps.

790
00:51:16,381 --> 00:51:21,886
And we're just trying to figure
out all of our camera positions.

791
00:51:27,124 --> 00:51:31,796
I mean the soloing
headspace is so fragile.

792
00:51:32,330 --> 00:51:36,531
We wanna film it well, but it's about
not getting in his way and making sure

793
00:51:36,533 --> 00:51:39,504
he has the experience he wants.

794
00:51:44,309 --> 00:51:47,142
CHEYNE: The worst possible scenario
is that one of us would do something

795
00:51:47,144 --> 00:51:49,044
that would kill him.

796
00:51:49,046 --> 00:51:50,312
Is it gonna be the drone?

797
00:51:50,314 --> 00:51:51,381
Is it gonna be
one of the ropes?

798
00:51:51,383 --> 00:51:55,053
Is it gonna be us accidently
knocking off a rock?

799
00:51:58,555 --> 00:52:01,223
ALEX: The idea of falling off is, you
know, obviously I'm trying to avoid that,

800
00:52:01,225 --> 00:52:05,394
but it's like kind of okay
if it's just by myself.

801
00:52:05,396 --> 00:52:08,330
But, like, I wouldn't wanna fall off right
in front of my friends, 'cause that's like,

802
00:52:08,332 --> 00:52:11,569
that's kind of messed up.

803
00:52:11,970 --> 00:52:15,274
JIMMY: Where are you comfortable
with us being essentially?

804
00:52:15,941 --> 00:52:18,875
Well, do you have
(INAUDIBLE) like.

805
00:52:18,877 --> 00:52:20,209
The traverse into it?

806
00:52:20,211 --> 00:52:21,843
- Uh-hmm.
- Yeah.

807
00:52:21,845 --> 00:52:25,046
And then a, just a camera above, sitting
above the Boulder Pitch, essentially.

808
00:52:25,048 --> 00:52:27,549
- Yeah. -It's distracting.
- Yeah, it's distracting.

809
00:52:27,551 --> 00:52:30,553
Well, it's not just distracting,
but it's also like, you know,

810
00:52:30,555 --> 00:52:34,126
nobody wants to see
that, I don't know.

811
00:52:36,060 --> 00:52:40,129
Like, yeah, I don't,
yeah, it's better not to.

812
00:52:40,131 --> 00:52:42,334
Some things you're like, meh.

813
00:52:42,966 --> 00:52:46,872
Yeah, okay.

814
00:52:49,006 --> 00:52:51,941
So should I rally into the valley
and try to like round out plans?

815
00:52:51,943 --> 00:52:54,111
Yeah, yeah.

816
00:52:57,948 --> 00:53:00,616
ALEX: Um, the moon set
at 4:50 behind the ridge.

817
00:53:00,618 --> 00:53:05,354
The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30 and
by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably.

818
00:53:05,356 --> 00:53:06,589
- 8:05?
- Okay.

819
00:53:06,591 --> 00:53:08,691
ALEX: You don't want it to be
sunny when you get to the crux,

820
00:53:08,693 --> 00:53:11,961
and it takes three or four hours
to get up to the Boulder Problem,

821
00:53:11,963 --> 00:53:14,296
and it's fall so in
order to beat the sun,

822
00:53:14,298 --> 00:53:16,631
you basically have
to start in the dark.

823
00:53:16,633 --> 00:53:21,240
I kinda think just leave the
ground at 4:00 again, basically.

824
00:53:29,113 --> 00:53:30,312
I don't know.

825
00:53:30,314 --> 00:53:32,885
I'm starting to get
kind of psyched.

826
00:53:35,319 --> 00:53:38,154
The moment of just letting go to it is
in some ways the most peaceful because

827
00:53:38,156 --> 00:53:39,721
then it's like
you just do your thing.

828
00:53:39,723 --> 00:53:42,894
There's no more stress, there's no more
anxiety, there's no fear, whatever,

829
00:53:43,394 --> 00:53:45,627
you just go up and do it.

830
00:53:45,629 --> 00:53:48,934
I put on my tight shoes today,
it's like very exciting.

831
00:53:49,834 --> 00:53:53,169
It would be, like, it would be like a
samurai pulling out his favorite sword,

832
00:53:53,171 --> 00:53:54,569
you know like,

833
00:53:54,571 --> 00:53:56,504
"Oh, my gosh,"
you know, and now I'm like,

834
00:53:56,506 --> 00:53:59,107
"Oh, time for the,
the finely crafted blade."

835
00:53:59,109 --> 00:54:02,213
So stoked.
I like sinking into it.

836
00:54:02,814 --> 00:54:08,250
It's, it goes with the Jedi thing,
the samurai with the, and then I just

837
00:54:08,252 --> 00:54:09,919
started taking Ibuprofen.

838
00:54:09,921 --> 00:54:13,058
I've been, like, icing a bunch and, like,
I think my foot's gonna be pretty good.

839
00:54:13,323 --> 00:54:16,528
JIMMY: Yeah, what does Sanni say
when you talk to her about it?

840
00:54:16,827 --> 00:54:18,394
ALEX: Um, I mean I haven't
talked to her that much.

841
00:54:18,396 --> 00:54:20,029
She's been, like, asking a lot of
questions like, "Oh, you know, how's it?"

842
00:54:20,031 --> 00:54:24,633
And I'm, I just haven't really like, I'm
just like, "Oh, we'll see, we'll see."

843
00:54:24,635 --> 00:54:28,205
You know, the fewer people know
anything, the better really.

844
00:54:30,374 --> 00:54:33,676
SANNI: I had a dream and you were
limping and you were like, had caught,

845
00:54:33,678 --> 00:54:38,147
had like made the exact same fall and
fallen on your ankle in the exact same way.

846
00:54:38,149 --> 00:54:39,714
That's really nice, San San.

847
00:54:39,716 --> 00:54:41,183
It was like tragic.

848
00:54:41,185 --> 00:54:42,417
I love hearing
stories about that.

849
00:54:42,419 --> 00:54:45,388
- I woke up, like, "Oh my gosh.
- I hope that didn't happen."

850
00:54:45,390 --> 00:54:47,790
That's, that's really nice.

851
00:54:47,792 --> 00:54:49,658
Um, what is your,
is your daypack?

852
00:54:49,660 --> 00:54:51,426
They're bringing it up
there for you and Peter?

853
00:54:51,428 --> 00:54:53,395
Um, no.

854
00:54:53,397 --> 00:54:56,031
For me tomorrow, probably.

855
00:54:56,033 --> 00:54:58,767
For on the mountain?

856
00:54:58,769 --> 00:55:00,770
Um, for the summit, yeah.

857
00:55:00,772 --> 00:55:03,339
Hmm, you and Peter are gonna
try and do the whole thing?

858
00:55:03,341 --> 00:55:06,207
Uh, no, Peter won't be here
for a couple of days probably.

859
00:55:06,209 --> 00:55:08,410
Oh, who are you
climbing with tomorrow?

860
00:55:08,412 --> 00:55:11,379
Um, yeah, we'll just see.

861
00:55:11,381 --> 00:55:13,417
Oh, okay, okay.

862
00:55:16,553 --> 00:55:20,089
Wait, so are you thinking of soloing it
tomorrow, is that why you're not telling me who

863
00:55:20,091 --> 00:55:21,589
you're climbing with?

864
00:55:21,591 --> 00:55:24,225
ALEX: Um, well, I'm not like
not telling you, but yeah.

865
00:55:24,227 --> 00:55:25,493
Whoa, Alex.

866
00:55:25,495 --> 00:55:27,729
- Whoa.
- Whoa. -Whoa.

867
00:55:27,731 --> 00:55:29,098
How do you feel?

868
00:55:29,100 --> 00:55:32,334
I'm, you know,
I mean, excited.

869
00:55:32,336 --> 00:55:35,404
That's really exciting. Is it
that feeling when you're like...

870
00:55:35,406 --> 00:55:37,705
So exciting I'm gonna
go right back to my book.

871
00:55:37,707 --> 00:55:40,211
Where you're like, no,
I'm not reading it.

872
00:55:41,479 --> 00:55:42,778
When did you decide?

873
00:55:42,780 --> 00:55:44,279
When did you decide
to do it tomorrow?

874
00:55:44,281 --> 00:55:47,452
ALEX: No, just, you know, uh, yesterday
or the day before or something.

875
00:55:48,019 --> 00:55:51,189
SANNI: Hmm, I'm processing.

876
00:56:16,714 --> 00:56:19,747
I wanna, like I wanna have this more,
like, holistic approach that you have where

877
00:56:19,749 --> 00:56:20,982
you're like "Well,
we're all gonna die,

878
00:56:20,984 --> 00:56:23,486
like might as well do what we
wanna do while we're here and

879
00:56:23,488 --> 00:56:27,792
it's okay when people die," but I feel
like I want you to meet me halfway

880
00:56:29,426 --> 00:56:34,098
and when you solo to
take me into the equation

881
00:56:35,265 --> 00:56:36,531
and then I think you said...

882
00:56:36,533 --> 00:56:39,336
Is there a question? -Some,
there's going to be. -Okay.

883
00:56:39,736 --> 00:56:42,638
Um, would putting me into the
equation actually ever change anything?

884
00:56:42,640 --> 00:56:45,676
Would you actually make
decisions differently?

885
00:56:46,044 --> 00:56:50,816
ALEX: If I had some kind of obligation
to maximize my lifespan, then like yeah,

886
00:56:51,115 --> 00:56:53,182
obviously I'd have to
give up soloing and, um.

887
00:56:53,184 --> 00:56:56,785
SANNI: Was me asking you, do you
see that as an obligation now?

888
00:56:56,787 --> 00:56:58,486
...Uh, no, no.

889
00:56:58,488 --> 00:57:00,156
Oh.

890
00:57:00,158 --> 00:57:05,761
No, but I appreciate your concerns and
I, you know, I respect that, but, but I,

891
00:57:05,763 --> 00:57:07,897
in no way, feel obligated, no.

892
00:57:07,899 --> 00:57:09,330
To maximize lifetime?

893
00:57:09,332 --> 00:57:12,403
No, no, I don't know.

894
00:57:13,972 --> 00:57:18,609
Um, but I mean like you saying, "Be safer,"
I'm kinda like well, I mean I can't.

895
00:57:19,743 --> 00:57:21,544
You know, I'm already
doing my best.

896
00:57:21,546 --> 00:57:23,712
So I could just, like, not do certain
things, but then you have, like,

897
00:57:23,714 --> 00:57:26,448
weird simmering resentment because
it's things that you love most in life

898
00:57:26,450 --> 00:57:28,417
have now been squashed.

899
00:57:28,419 --> 00:57:31,356
You know what I mean?

900
00:57:45,736 --> 00:57:49,571
- What time is it? -3:30.
- Oh.

901
00:57:49,573 --> 00:57:52,473
I just woke up one
minute before my alarm.

902
00:57:52,475 --> 00:57:55,180
Yeah, you woke up
before or after?

903
00:57:56,379 --> 00:57:59,483
One minute before.

904
00:58:15,932 --> 00:58:19,503
It's like always about, like,
excellence and perfection.

905
00:58:22,240 --> 00:58:25,544
And I was certainly raised that way, you
know, that you need to, you need to perform.

906
00:58:29,412 --> 00:58:32,413
It's also just like kind of rad because
you're doing something for the first time

907
00:58:32,415 --> 00:58:34,852
in human history.

908
00:58:49,267 --> 00:58:52,571
Let's hope it's
a low gravity day.

909
00:58:54,772 --> 00:58:57,406
Bye, Huck, see
you at the ground.

910
00:58:57,408 --> 00:59:00,578
- Meet you in the ground.
- See you, buddy.

911
00:59:27,537 --> 00:59:30,841
ALEX: This sucks.
I don't wanna be here.

912
00:59:36,314 --> 00:59:39,283
I'm over it.

913
00:59:39,816 --> 00:59:40,948
MIKEY: What happened?

914
00:59:40,950 --> 00:59:43,419
ALEX: I cheated on
the slab down there.

915
00:59:43,421 --> 00:59:44,919
Might as well radio it.

916
00:59:44,921 --> 00:59:47,691
MIKEY: Do you
wanna talk to him?

917
00:59:48,926 --> 00:59:51,593
ALEX: I don't even know what to say,
it's, like, kind of embarrassing.

918
00:59:51,595 --> 00:59:53,796
Uh, hey, whoever's on
the radio, this is Alex.

919
00:59:53,798 --> 00:59:56,600
Um, I think I'm bailing.

920
00:59:58,568 --> 01:00:00,368
JIMMY: Wait, could you repeat?

921
01:00:00,370 --> 01:00:02,638
MIKEY (OVER RADIO): <i>I
think he's bailing from heart.</i>

922
01:00:02,640 --> 01:00:05,676
CREW (OVER RADIO): <i>Bailing
from heart, that's correct.</i>

923
01:00:08,979 --> 01:00:11,716
JIMMY: It's kind
of disturbing.

924
01:00:15,952 --> 01:00:18,854
Yeah, I wonder what it was.

925
01:00:18,856 --> 01:00:21,689
ALEX: I don't know if I can
try with everybody watching.

926
01:00:21,691 --> 01:00:23,524
It's too scary.

927
01:00:23,526 --> 01:00:26,463
Just can't, like,
try for real.

928
01:00:40,644 --> 01:00:43,779
- Oh, my gosh. -Good morning.
- What are you doing?

929
01:00:43,781 --> 01:00:45,080
Oh, I bailed.

930
01:00:45,082 --> 01:00:46,647
You bailed, oh?

931
01:00:46,649 --> 01:00:47,850
Yeah, it's chilly outside.

932
01:00:47,852 --> 01:00:49,517
It's chilly, okay.

933
01:00:49,519 --> 01:00:51,622
Okay.

934
01:00:52,390 --> 01:00:53,455
What's going on?

935
01:00:53,457 --> 01:00:58,063
Well, not much.

936
01:00:58,263 --> 01:00:59,462
What's up?

937
01:00:59,464 --> 01:01:01,562
Oh, I just, I went up to Free
Blast and I was, like, nah,

938
01:01:01,564 --> 01:01:03,098
I'm not gonna' do it. But...

939
01:01:03,100 --> 01:01:04,566
Good for you.

940
01:01:04,568 --> 01:01:05,933
Yeah, well, it's just a
little weird, you know?

941
01:01:05,935 --> 01:01:07,669
- Yup.
- Yeah. -No.

942
01:01:07,671 --> 01:01:11,673
Right, I mean there's just too many random,
random folks about and stuff, whatever.

943
01:01:11,675 --> 01:01:13,008
Uh-hmm, yeah.

944
01:01:13,010 --> 01:01:15,778
But, like, basically I did the
first half of the first slab.

945
01:01:15,780 --> 01:01:17,113
Uh-hmm.

946
01:01:17,115 --> 01:01:19,515
ALEX: And then, uh, and then I
just was like, "Oh, I don't know."

947
01:01:19,517 --> 01:01:20,716
And my feet.

948
01:01:20,718 --> 01:01:22,151
Right, you made the
perfect decision.

949
01:01:22,153 --> 01:01:23,718
I don't know though,
I'm just like.

950
01:01:23,720 --> 01:01:24,919
Yeah.

951
01:01:24,921 --> 01:01:26,988
ALEX: But now it all has to
drag on longer, I'm like.

952
01:01:26,990 --> 01:01:29,857
You, yeah, I mean, you
never have to go for it.

953
01:01:29,859 --> 01:01:30,792
You can just.

954
01:01:30,794 --> 01:01:32,761
ALEX: Well, I just need
it to end, you know.

955
01:01:32,763 --> 01:01:34,196
Yeah, yeah, all the...

956
01:01:34,198 --> 01:01:36,098
Yeah, you know what
I'm talking about.

957
01:01:36,100 --> 01:01:38,603
The circus surrounding you.

958
01:01:42,472 --> 01:01:45,776
I just can't imagine,
I wonder if he got nervous.

959
01:01:47,144 --> 01:01:49,778
Is that possible?

960
01:01:49,780 --> 01:01:51,682
Oh, man.

961
01:01:52,015 --> 01:01:54,917
There's a lot of things that I
don't totally understand about him.

962
01:01:54,919 --> 01:01:56,151
You know?

963
01:01:56,153 --> 01:01:57,519
JIMMY: Yeah, I know.

964
01:01:57,521 --> 01:02:01,825
I mean in some ways it'd be kind of
reassuring that Spock has nerves.

965
01:02:13,069 --> 01:02:15,671
ALEX: It was the first time I've ever
gone up on something like real and

966
01:02:15,673 --> 01:02:17,473
then not done it.

967
01:02:17,475 --> 01:02:22,680
But it's also the first time I've ever gone up
on something real with people all watching.

968
01:02:22,946 --> 01:02:26,551
By myself, I maybe would have just,
like, persevered, I don't know,

969
01:02:27,118 --> 01:02:30,752
maybe I just suck, but,

970
01:02:30,754 --> 01:02:34,125
you know, at least I've
like, at least I've tried.

971
01:02:56,981 --> 01:02:58,917
SANNI: Thanks for
meeting us again.

972
01:03:02,620 --> 01:03:06,522
It's funny, it always has a certain
smell in here, and I wonder if it's

973
01:03:06,524 --> 01:03:07,955
the paint or the.

974
01:03:07,957 --> 01:03:10,461
ALEX: Yeah, it's
the fresh paint.

975
01:03:10,828 --> 01:03:13,798
SANNI: Dining room with
probably also bookshelves.

976
01:03:15,031 --> 01:03:16,631
ALEX: Wait, so what
am, what am I signing?

977
01:03:16,633 --> 01:03:18,901
"Buyers of unit approves
the home inspection."

978
01:03:18,903 --> 01:03:24,038
SANNI: Yeah, Alex told me I get
one furniture question a day.

979
01:03:24,040 --> 01:03:26,008
ALEX: I've always thought
that I ought to buy a house,

980
01:03:26,010 --> 01:03:29,611
just haven't quite had the energy
to make it all happen myself.

981
01:03:29,613 --> 01:03:32,180
I think Sanni will be stoked to have
a place to live and there's so much

982
01:03:32,182 --> 01:03:34,685
climbing all around Vegas.

983
01:03:35,153 --> 01:03:40,492
SANNI: Big sectional here and
chair or like sofa and two chairs.

984
01:03:43,227 --> 01:03:45,930
Potential, like, bar area.

985
01:03:47,597 --> 01:03:49,230
ALEX: I would just sleep
straight on the carpet.

986
01:03:49,232 --> 01:03:51,502
It'd be like.

987
01:03:58,742 --> 01:04:02,843
SANNI: Alex was a huge jerk watching
me struggle with the tape measure,

988
01:04:02,845 --> 01:04:05,881
being an asshole standing by
commenting on how stupid I look,

989
01:04:05,883 --> 01:04:10,185
but not actually offering to help
or be productive or kind in any way.

990
01:04:10,187 --> 01:04:13,020
ALEX: And so now it's
all gone to shit.

991
01:04:13,022 --> 01:04:16,126
SANNI: Yeah, you're asking about our
domestic bliss, it's nonexistent.

992
01:04:16,961 --> 01:04:19,794
ALEX: You're so angry, but
it's cracking, it's cracking.

993
01:04:19,796 --> 01:04:20,995
It's not cracking.

994
01:04:20,997 --> 01:04:22,263
Yeah, it is, it's cracking.

995
01:04:22,265 --> 01:04:23,865
No, it's not,
I'm still angry.

996
01:04:23,867 --> 01:04:25,167
I can tell you're cracking.

997
01:04:25,169 --> 01:04:26,701
I'm not cracking.

998
01:04:26,703 --> 01:04:28,270
But you're not that
angry, you're cracking.

999
01:04:28,272 --> 01:04:29,937
I'm not cracking.

1000
01:04:29,939 --> 01:04:32,006
This is firm
resolve of hatred.

1001
01:04:32,008 --> 01:04:34,211
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

1002
01:04:35,613 --> 01:04:38,816
Oh, boy.

1003
01:04:40,017 --> 01:04:42,750
That one seems very
big and very wide.

1004
01:04:42,752 --> 01:04:44,289
Oh.

1005
01:04:46,022 --> 01:04:48,660
Whoa, that seems really deep.

1006
01:04:50,193 --> 01:04:51,892
We should just ask somebody.

1007
01:04:51,894 --> 01:04:53,194
Hmm, I know.

1008
01:04:53,196 --> 01:04:54,629
Let's keep looking
for the smaller ones.

1009
01:04:54,631 --> 01:04:55,964
Oh, this is the $400, that's.

1010
01:04:55,966 --> 01:04:57,232
That's it!

1011
01:04:57,234 --> 01:04:58,399
That's it, that's our jam.

1012
01:04:58,401 --> 01:04:59,901
This is actually,
like, kind of perfect.

1013
01:04:59,903 --> 01:05:02,807
This is like so adequate.

1014
01:05:05,008 --> 01:05:06,375
We have a fridge!

1015
01:05:06,377 --> 01:05:09,314
- Hmm.
- Yay! -That success.

1016
01:05:09,847 --> 01:05:11,379
SANNI: Is it possible?

1017
01:05:11,381 --> 01:05:16,921
We had like a sort of a rough patch
since Yosemite, where, I don't know,

1018
01:05:17,687 --> 01:05:21,658
Alex isn't super good about
putting a name to how he's feeling.

1019
01:05:21,892 --> 01:05:24,692
So, he'll be like, "I know I'm cranky, but
I don't really know why and I'm not gonna

1020
01:05:24,694 --> 01:05:27,164
take the time
to figure it out."

1021
01:05:27,698 --> 01:05:30,732
I'm patient, but
I also have self-respect.

1022
01:05:30,734 --> 01:05:34,806
And then, you know, the second that I
start being mad, he's just like "foom."

1023
01:05:38,207 --> 01:05:39,774
ALEX: How do you make coffee?

1024
01:05:39,776 --> 01:05:42,276
You need like a filter.

1025
01:05:42,278 --> 01:05:45,980
Definitely my relationship with Sanni
is, like, the most healthy and stable

1026
01:05:45,982 --> 01:05:48,151
relationship I've ever had.

1027
01:05:48,484 --> 01:05:50,887
Oh, look at that, the only
thing in the cupboard.

1028
01:05:51,488 --> 01:05:53,287
Certainly more communicative.

1029
01:05:53,289 --> 01:05:55,790
Even Sanni over the year and a
half we've been dating is like,

1030
01:05:55,792 --> 01:05:57,825
"Wow, you've
really blossomed."

1031
01:05:57,827 --> 01:05:59,495
Well, that's not
really promising.

1032
01:05:59,497 --> 01:06:02,330
And you think you put the coffee in there
and then you push the water through it?

1033
01:06:02,332 --> 01:06:03,698
I don't how to, um.

1034
01:06:03,700 --> 01:06:06,100
SANNI: Hello,
oh, my gosh, wow!

1035
01:06:06,102 --> 01:06:07,769
ALEX: Oh, like, how's, why?

1036
01:06:07,771 --> 01:06:09,203
SANNI: Is this what it is
to be, um, a homeowner?

1037
01:06:09,205 --> 01:06:11,406
You get breakfast and coffee
made for you every day?

1038
01:06:11,408 --> 01:06:14,042
ALEX: I don't, I don't understand
the, do you put the coffee in here and

1039
01:06:14,044 --> 01:06:15,109
then put the water to it?

1040
01:06:15,111 --> 01:06:16,343
SANNI: It's really
complicated.

1041
01:06:16,345 --> 01:06:19,050
ALEX: But she sees
things in a different way.

1042
01:06:19,249 --> 01:06:22,719
For Sanni the point of
life is like happiness.

1043
01:06:22,919 --> 01:06:26,857
To be with people that make you feel
fulfilled and to have a good time.

1044
01:06:27,158 --> 01:06:30,194
For me it's all
about performance.

1045
01:06:30,627 --> 01:06:34,699
The thing is anybody
can be happy and cozy.

1046
01:06:34,899 --> 01:06:38,336
Nothing good happens in the
world by being happy and cozy.

1047
01:06:40,437 --> 01:06:44,375
You know, like nobody achieves anything
great because they're happy and cozy.

1048
01:06:45,809 --> 01:06:50,247
SANNI: You never wanna feel like you're
getting in the way of someone's goal.

1049
01:06:51,115 --> 01:06:55,919
And it's really hard for me
to grasp why he wants this.

1050
01:06:57,754 --> 01:07:02,426
But it's his dream and he
obviously still really wants it.

1051
01:07:06,229 --> 01:07:09,397
ALEX: It's about
being a warrior.

1052
01:07:09,399 --> 01:07:12,399
It doesn't matter about
the cause necessarily.

1053
01:07:12,401 --> 01:07:15,906
This is your path and you will
pursue it with excellence.

1054
01:07:17,941 --> 01:07:20,877
You face your fear because
your goal demands it.

1055
01:07:22,211 --> 01:07:26,050
That is the goddamn
warrior spirit.

1056
01:07:26,682 --> 01:07:30,287
I think that the free soloing mentality
is pretty close to warrior culture,

1057
01:07:31,254 --> 01:07:35,792
where you give something 100% focus
because your life depends on it.

1058
01:08:06,089 --> 01:08:10,591
ALEX: The move I gave up on in the fall was a
right foot on this little edge right here,

1059
01:08:10,593 --> 01:08:14,865
and I basically just have to like stand
on the right foot and just trust it.

1060
01:08:15,066 --> 01:08:18,133
And I was like, "I don't really wanna
have my whole life depend on like standing

1061
01:08:18,135 --> 01:08:21,105
on this one right foot."

1062
01:08:22,372 --> 01:08:25,209
But maybe I
can find another way.

1063
01:08:31,414 --> 01:08:35,019
MARK: I think this is like kind
of the business of the whole deal,

1064
01:08:36,052 --> 01:08:39,353
which is interesting because if you're
climbing with a rope it's not at all,

1065
01:08:39,355 --> 01:08:42,492
but without a rope it is.

1066
01:09:11,454 --> 01:09:17,093
ALEX: That's my variation,
I just don't know.

1067
01:09:25,636 --> 01:09:30,374
MARK: I think that he's only comfortable
climbing in front of the camera or in front of

1068
01:09:30,640 --> 01:09:34,345
any other people when he's
really confident and secure.

1069
01:09:34,945 --> 01:09:38,349
And that's been the dilemma that this
whole production has faced, right?

1070
01:09:38,582 --> 01:09:39,781
- Yeah.
- From the beginning.

1071
01:09:39,783 --> 01:09:42,517
JIMMY: Our being there is
always going to change things.

1072
01:09:42,519 --> 01:09:46,254
What made the big difference for me
is that he did turn around last year.

1073
01:09:46,256 --> 01:09:50,061
He didn't feel the pressure to have
to do it because we were there.

1074
01:09:51,227 --> 01:09:54,565
And I really, like
that to me said a lot.

1075
01:09:55,464 --> 01:09:57,568
MARK: It meant a lot.

1076
01:10:14,952 --> 01:10:18,553
JIMMY: Is that what you'd
want, us not to film it?

1077
01:10:18,555 --> 01:10:21,089
ALEX: Hmm, no.

1078
01:10:21,091 --> 01:10:24,259
I mean, hard to say it but I care
about doing it a lot more than I care

1079
01:10:24,261 --> 01:10:25,960
about it being filmed.

1080
01:10:25,962 --> 01:10:27,429
You know?

1081
01:10:27,431 --> 01:10:30,031
JIMMY: You could put your foot down
at any time, and, and, you know.

1082
01:10:30,033 --> 01:10:31,532
ALEX: Yeah, I mean,
I'm aware of it.

1083
01:10:31,534 --> 01:10:33,300
Like, if I want to, I just won't
tell anybody and I'm just gonna do it

1084
01:10:33,302 --> 01:10:34,501
on my own terms.

1085
01:10:34,503 --> 01:10:35,769
JIMMY: Yeah, exactly.

1086
01:10:35,771 --> 01:10:38,139
ALEX: Like whatever, like I mean
that's obviously on the table.

1087
01:10:38,141 --> 01:10:40,308
But obviously that would
hose everybody, you know?

1088
01:10:40,310 --> 01:10:41,408
JIMMY: Yeah.

1089
01:10:41,410 --> 01:10:42,743
SANNI: If you woke up
tomorrow and you were like,

1090
01:10:42,745 --> 01:10:44,011
"You know what,
screw all of this,

1091
01:10:44,013 --> 01:10:46,380
I just don't care enough, like
I don't feel good enough."

1092
01:10:46,382 --> 01:10:47,883
ALEX: You know,
but that's like, yeah,

1093
01:10:47,885 --> 01:10:50,085
I mean, of course I, I mean, I know
I could do that and just walk away.

1094
01:10:50,087 --> 01:10:55,026
But it's like, you know, I
mean, you know, I don't want to.

1095
01:11:07,503 --> 01:11:11,206
Having all these people around
requires a higher level of preparation,

1096
01:11:11,208 --> 01:11:14,045
a higher level of
confidence basically.

1097
01:11:14,244 --> 01:11:17,578
I need to like dial it in so much that,
you know, it doesn't matter if there's

1098
01:11:17,580 --> 01:11:20,281
like a stadium of people watching me because
it's so easy for me that I'm just like,

1099
01:11:20,283 --> 01:11:22,553
"Check this out."
And just do it.

1100
01:11:23,986 --> 01:11:27,490
Pitch one, stay left towards the
top, splitter, it feels more secure.

1101
01:11:28,525 --> 01:11:31,492
Pitch two, trust the right
foot, rock on, trust the feet,

1102
01:11:31,494 --> 01:11:33,127
right hand to
the last under cling.

1103
01:11:33,129 --> 01:11:34,795
Eight, easy romp. Go fast.

1104
01:11:34,797 --> 01:11:38,133
Nine, stay outside of the
down climb, careful of blocks.

1105
01:11:38,135 --> 01:11:42,036
Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the
corner, key left-hand pinch thing,

1106
01:11:42,038 --> 01:11:45,607
right foot back step on the lower edge,
left foot faced against the wall, stand up.

1107
01:11:45,609 --> 01:11:49,513
Left hand to the huge ear jug thing,
switch the feet, match the big jug,

1108
01:11:49,945 --> 01:11:53,447
left foot jams into the crack, then you see
right-hand down pulling on the top part of the

1109
01:11:53,449 --> 01:11:57,085
jug, left hand goes into this flared slot
thing, which you can either fist jam or hand

1110
01:11:57,087 --> 01:11:59,386
jam, either way, it's like
a flare jam in the slot.

1111
01:11:59,388 --> 01:12:03,323
Sag down onto it, right hand crosses
under to an under cling, side pull.

1112
01:12:03,325 --> 01:12:06,460
Right foot sinks low to a flat edge,
left foot steps through to an edge,

1113
01:12:06,462 --> 01:12:10,197
right foot back steps really high so you
can sag your weight around the corner

1114
01:12:10,199 --> 01:12:11,765
without having to swing.

1115
01:12:11,767 --> 01:12:14,635
Left foot out to the big horn, right
hand through to a little finger pocket,

1116
01:12:14,637 --> 01:12:17,805
you go left foot out to an edge around the
corner, you can actually push all the way

1117
01:12:17,807 --> 01:12:20,207
into the corner, then you can grab
this down pulling right hand, flat,

1118
01:12:20,209 --> 01:12:21,910
like a small crimp.

1119
01:12:21,912 --> 01:12:24,411
Left hand to the other under cling, switch
your feet on the rail and then just reach

1120
01:12:24,413 --> 01:12:26,716
through the jugs,
and then it's done.

1121
01:12:26,949 --> 01:12:31,286
The key thing for the crux, pull
hard, trust feet, "trust" underline,

1122
01:12:31,288 --> 01:12:33,554
double exclamation
point, period.

1123
01:12:33,556 --> 01:12:36,426
Autopilot. Period.

1124
01:12:56,378 --> 01:12:59,413
I mean, you know, it's not
surprising that Ueli died.

1125
01:12:59,415 --> 01:13:03,117
Considering he's always doing crazy
dangerous things, but I kind of thought

1126
01:13:03,119 --> 01:13:05,789
he was gonna survive.

1127
01:13:07,891 --> 01:13:13,294
Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs
that you just kind of squeak out once.

1128
01:13:13,296 --> 01:13:16,700
You know I've
always tried not to.

1129
01:13:16,900 --> 01:13:19,767
But when I was talking to him
about, about Free Rider, I was like,

1130
01:13:19,769 --> 01:13:22,402
"Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those
routes that I just need to go squeak

1131
01:13:22,404 --> 01:13:25,542
out once and just like
make sure it's my day."

1132
01:13:26,142 --> 01:13:29,579
You know, obviously
it wasn't his day.

1133
01:13:38,754 --> 01:13:42,290
TOMMY: After Ueli died, it's interesting
with Alex, how he justifies all that

1134
01:13:42,292 --> 01:13:44,595
stuff away so quickly.

1135
01:13:45,195 --> 01:13:47,428
He was just kind of like
shrugged it off, he's like

1136
01:13:47,430 --> 01:13:49,867
"Oh, yeah, yeah,
it could happen."

1137
01:13:53,802 --> 01:13:56,371
SANNI: I talked to Alex for a
really long time about all of this.

1138
01:13:56,373 --> 01:13:58,339
And I was like,
"What if you die?

1139
01:13:58,341 --> 01:14:01,876
Like what if you die
just like Ueli died?"

1140
01:14:01,878 --> 01:14:05,813
Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a
really beautiful relationship and they

1141
01:14:05,815 --> 01:14:08,483
would climb together.

1142
01:14:08,485 --> 01:14:12,853
Alex said at one point,
"Well, what did she expect?"

1143
01:14:12,855 --> 01:14:16,593
And I got, I was like, "What do
you mean what did she expect?"

1144
01:14:17,427 --> 01:14:23,333
I was like, "I'm Nicole, Alex!
And I don't expect that."

1145
01:14:23,833 --> 01:14:27,268
TOMMY: Tons of more people
have died and Alex is kind of

1146
01:14:27,270 --> 01:14:32,407
the most likely to die,
but I know he's gonna do it.

1147
01:14:32,409 --> 01:14:36,180
So I'd like to be there to help
him prepare as well as he can.

1148
01:14:38,414 --> 01:14:39,649
Oh, shit.

1149
01:14:39,982 --> 01:14:43,984
If he went to solo it and fell and
died, and I hadn't helped him prepare

1150
01:14:43,986 --> 01:14:45,553
that would be harder for me.

1151
01:14:45,555 --> 01:14:48,590
Like, I just know that I'm, I'm one of
the people that's gonna be able to do

1152
01:14:48,592 --> 01:14:51,462
that the best with
him and so, I should.

1153
01:14:59,336 --> 01:15:03,373
JIMMY: He said he's feeling
tinges of, of like game time.

1154
01:15:05,007 --> 01:15:07,711
I think there's a
chance he goes tomorrow.

1155
01:15:11,748 --> 01:15:15,817
MIKEY: They are remote cameras,
because we wanna stay out of Alex's

1156
01:15:15,819 --> 01:15:17,788
line of sight
when he's doing it.

1157
01:15:20,656 --> 01:15:23,457
JIMMY: Okay, everybody knows what
to do if something goes wrong.

1158
01:15:23,459 --> 01:15:26,196
Josh, just to confirm
who should Mikey call?

1159
01:15:27,596 --> 01:15:29,863
The easiest thing
would just be 911.

1160
01:15:29,865 --> 01:15:33,636
And that we will get kicked into
gear and tell them what you know.

1161
01:15:34,037 --> 01:15:35,370
A climber.

1162
01:15:35,372 --> 01:15:37,304
Yeah.

1163
01:15:37,306 --> 01:15:40,376
All right, no
mistakes tomorrow.

1164
01:15:50,854 --> 01:15:54,921
MIKEY: I'm worried that tomorrow
is gonna be it, like, you know,

1165
01:15:54,923 --> 01:15:58,828
like Alex's existence
will be over.

1166
01:16:00,596 --> 01:16:04,564
I was like, "Oh, I have to be
prepared for that outcome and

1167
01:16:04,566 --> 01:16:08,305
I have to realize that
that is a real possibility."

1168
01:16:12,742 --> 01:16:14,712
SANNI: Oh, God.

1169
01:16:24,421 --> 01:16:27,854
Remember when you said you were
gonna stand up for my goodbye?

1170
01:16:27,856 --> 01:16:30,625
- Oh, is it time? -Yeah.
- Oh.

1171
01:16:30,627 --> 01:16:33,564
But you don't have to stand
up, but you have to sit up.

1172
01:16:33,931 --> 01:16:37,568
Oh, you could've
just left me.

1173
01:16:38,967 --> 01:16:42,639
No, no, I'm never gonna go.

1174
01:16:43,605 --> 01:16:45,872
Okay, drive safe.

1175
01:16:45,874 --> 01:16:49,512
Ciao, see you later!

1176
01:17:05,628 --> 01:17:07,862
ALEX: I mean, I didn't
ask her to leave.

1177
01:17:07,864 --> 01:17:09,563
I mean, I would never
ask her to leave.

1178
01:17:09,565 --> 01:17:14,535
But, you know, I think she kind of understands
that, that it's probably easier for

1179
01:17:14,537 --> 01:17:17,708
me if she's gone.

1180
01:17:19,676 --> 01:17:22,410
I don't, I, the whole like
saying goodbye thing I'm like

1181
01:17:22,412 --> 01:17:25,479
"I'll probably see her in
like five days or something."

1182
01:17:25,481 --> 01:17:27,984
It's not like goodbye, it's
just goodbye for a few days.

1183
01:17:33,690 --> 01:17:37,125
SANNI: You know, I mean there's just
that like weird thought of like,

1184
01:17:37,127 --> 01:17:40,931
don't freaking let that be
our last hug or whatever.

1185
01:17:45,635 --> 01:17:49,605
You know, like I shouldn't
be having that thought...

1186
01:17:53,709 --> 01:17:57,347
of like "What if
something happens?

1187
01:17:57,614 --> 01:18:00,884
Like what if I don't
see him again?"

1188
01:18:02,418 --> 01:18:05,486
You know, like, "Why
do you wanna do this?

1189
01:18:05,488 --> 01:18:08,992
Like it's a
totally crazy goal."

1190
01:18:41,156 --> 01:18:47,698
♪ ♪

1191
01:19:08,717 --> 01:19:14,891
♪ ♪

1192
01:19:33,510 --> 01:19:39,850
♪ ♪

1193
01:19:43,186 --> 01:19:44,986
MIKEY (OVER RADIO):
<i>Hey, Jimmy, do you copy?</i>

1194
01:19:44,988 --> 01:19:47,124
JIMMY: This is Jimmy.

1195
01:19:49,092 --> 01:19:51,562
MIKEY (OVER RADIO): <i>He
just started climbing.</i>

1196
01:20:19,588 --> 01:20:24,794
♪ ♪

1197
01:20:29,231 --> 01:20:32,099
MIKEY: It is so
slippery right there.

1198
01:20:32,101 --> 01:20:33,971
This is where he bailed.

1199
01:21:03,065 --> 01:21:09,572
♪ ♪

1200
01:21:29,691 --> 01:21:32,259
♪ ♪

1201
01:21:32,261 --> 01:21:36,096
JIMMY: Mikey, do you copy?
This is Jimmy.

1202
01:21:36,098 --> 01:21:38,299
MIKEY (OVER RADIO):
<i>Hey, Jimmy, this is Mikey.</i>

1203
01:21:38,301 --> 01:21:41,705
JIMMY: Can you let me know when
he's through the slab pitch?

1204
01:21:42,838 --> 01:21:45,072
MIKEY (OVER RADIO):
<i>He's through the slab pitch.</i>

1205
01:21:45,074 --> 01:21:47,207
JIMMY: He's through it?

1206
01:21:47,209 --> 01:21:49,846
MIKEY (OVER RADIO): <i>Yup,
he's almost at half dollar.</i>

1207
01:21:50,378 --> 01:21:52,783
JIMMY: He's moving fast.

1208
01:21:53,917 --> 01:21:58,120
MIKEY (OVER RADIO): <i>Yes, Jimmy,
he is of course ahead of schedule.</i>

1209
01:22:00,722 --> 01:22:02,758
JIMMY: So how far
is he from Mammoth?

1210
01:22:03,860 --> 01:22:05,829
MIKEY (OVER RADIO): <i>Doing
the half dollar right now.</i>

1211
01:22:23,111 --> 01:22:26,048
MARK: 6:21 he's down climbing
to Heart Ledge there's a party,

1212
01:22:27,083 --> 01:22:29,386
in a Porter Ledge still.

1213
01:22:32,187 --> 01:22:34,958
They're awake and
there's, they're aware.

1214
01:22:35,557 --> 01:22:38,294
They're like "Here comes
Honnold." Oh, my God.

1215
01:22:39,328 --> 01:22:42,365
A Dude in a bunny suit.

1216
01:22:46,235 --> 01:22:48,102
The person is getting up now.

1217
01:22:48,104 --> 01:22:50,103
Uh yeah, no there's a tail.

1218
01:22:50,105 --> 01:22:56,245
This person has a tail and it's
either a chicken head or a bunny.

1219
01:22:56,779 --> 01:22:58,982
CHAI: Oh, it's a unicorn.

1220
01:22:59,181 --> 01:23:01,318
MARK: Come on.
Who does that?

1221
01:23:02,485 --> 01:23:05,088
I've never seen
that on El Cap.

1222
01:23:05,887 --> 01:23:09,223
Wow, and Alex is gone.

1223
01:23:09,225 --> 01:23:12,062
Okay, so he's entering
the Hollow Flake at 6:49.

1224
01:23:12,428 --> 01:23:16,065
MIKEY: He just did the Hollow Flake down
climb and is in the Hollow Flake now.

1225
01:23:21,204 --> 01:23:25,238
MARK: And then the thing about Free Rider
is that from the base of Hollow Flake

1226
01:23:25,240 --> 01:23:28,979
it's one crack system all the way to
the top which is like what, 2,000 feet?

1227
01:23:31,513 --> 01:23:35,318
That's the most magnificent
crack on planet earth.

1228
01:23:43,191 --> 01:23:44,591
JIMMY (OVER RADIO):
<i>Doug, this is Jimmy.</i>

1229
01:23:44,593 --> 01:23:47,998
<i>Do you know if they've radioed if
he's gotten to the Monster yet?</i>

1230
01:23:49,899 --> 01:23:51,735
DOUG (OVER RADIO):
<i>Yeah, he's there now.</i>

1231
01:24:09,519 --> 01:24:14,123
(HEAVY BREATHING)

1232
01:24:24,534 --> 01:24:28,205
MARK: He's almost through it.

1233
01:24:41,583 --> 01:24:44,451
There, he's coming
up now actually.

1234
01:24:44,453 --> 01:24:47,453
MIKEY: Now we see him like at
the same height as the spire.

1235
01:24:47,455 --> 01:24:50,526
But you guys are all in
position ready to go?

1236
01:24:51,394 --> 01:24:55,798
JIMMY (OVER RADIO): <i>Yeah, Sam and I
are at the bottom of the head wall.</i>

1237
01:24:56,298 --> 01:25:00,770
MIKEY: My guess is he's 15 minutes
from the Boulder Problem or so.

1238
01:25:50,186 --> 01:25:54,357
♪ ♪

1239
01:26:23,653 --> 01:26:26,890
♪ ♪

1240
01:26:34,997 --> 01:26:38,968
MARK: He just did
the karate kick.

1241
01:26:40,669 --> 01:26:42,471
He's got it.

1242
01:26:47,176 --> 01:26:49,044
Oh, yeah.

1243
01:26:50,613 --> 01:26:52,446
That is way too gnarly.

1244
01:26:52,448 --> 01:26:55,252
- Oh, my God.
- He did it. Jesus.

1245
01:26:57,686 --> 01:27:00,089
He just sent the
boulder problem.

1246
01:27:01,123 --> 01:27:04,127
MARK: He must be so stoked.

1247
01:27:04,659 --> 01:27:07,396
I mean to have the slabs and the boulder
problem behind him is monumental.

1248
01:27:12,435 --> 01:27:16,272
- Here's the Enduro huh?
- Yup, this is the Enduro.

1249
01:27:52,641 --> 01:27:56,379
I can't believe you guys
are actually gonna watch.

1250
01:27:56,745 --> 01:28:00,382
Oh, I don't wanna, I don't,
I don't, I don't, I don't, no, no.

1251
01:28:23,439 --> 01:28:26,209
MIKEY: Oh, my God.

1252
01:28:34,083 --> 01:28:36,183
MARK: Yeah, that's kind
of exposed right there.

1253
01:28:36,185 --> 01:28:39,422
MIKEY: Oh, my God,
it's so exposed.

1254
01:28:39,721 --> 01:28:42,423
That arête move as he
stepped around has gotta be,

1255
01:28:42,425 --> 01:28:43,791
I mean that's one
of the most exposed moves

1256
01:28:43,793 --> 01:28:47,560
like anywhere on El Cap.

1257
01:28:47,562 --> 01:28:50,065
If you just step out,
it all drops away.

1258
01:29:19,595 --> 01:29:25,601
♪ ♪

1259
01:29:43,284 --> 01:29:45,387
ALEX: Yeah, buddy.

1260
01:29:46,055 --> 01:29:49,288
MARK: Alex is having
the best day of his life.

1261
01:29:49,290 --> 01:29:52,128
MIKEY:
I don't know. Not me.

1262
01:29:52,328 --> 01:29:56,800
I'm done, yeah, no, this is it,
I don't, we don't need to do this again.

1263
01:30:01,436 --> 01:30:02,604
Yeah, no.

1264
01:30:23,659 --> 01:30:30,133
♪ ♪

1265
01:30:49,717 --> 01:30:55,824
♪ ♪

1266
01:31:16,477 --> 01:31:22,819
♪ ♪

1267
01:31:43,705 --> 01:31:50,180
♪ ♪

1268
01:32:06,628 --> 01:32:08,931
It's over now.

1269
01:32:13,302 --> 01:32:17,906
Oh, God, it's done, woo-hoo!

1270
01:32:19,507 --> 01:32:20,974
Oh, God.

1271
01:32:20,976 --> 01:32:23,580
Oh, God, wow.

1272
01:32:24,747 --> 01:32:28,618
MARK: Oh, my God, I can't
believe what I just witnessed.

1273
01:32:47,735 --> 01:32:53,742
♪ ♪

1274
01:33:07,021 --> 01:33:10,724
JIMMY: Oh, God.

1275
01:33:10,726 --> 01:33:12,962
ALEX: Good to see
you again, yay.

1276
01:33:13,762 --> 01:33:16,599
MIKEY: Wow!

1277
01:33:18,934 --> 01:33:21,570
ALEX: So delighted.

1278
01:33:22,104 --> 01:33:25,275
That felt so good,
it's freaking raged.

1279
01:33:26,141 --> 01:33:29,444
JIMMY: Like a gigantic weight
off of my shoulders too.

1280
01:33:30,079 --> 01:33:32,749
I have to admit, I mean.

1281
01:33:33,415 --> 01:33:38,354
ALEX: So delighted,
what a journey.

1282
01:33:39,221 --> 01:33:44,560
Yeah, I just can't even believe
after eight years of dreaming,

1283
01:33:46,762 --> 01:33:49,763
oh San-san's calling me.

1284
01:33:49,765 --> 01:33:51,531
Hello?

1285
01:33:51,533 --> 01:33:54,600
(INAUDIBLE).

1286
01:33:54,602 --> 01:33:56,236
Yeah, so delighted.

1287
01:33:56,238 --> 01:33:59,072
SANNI (OVER PHONE): <i>Oh my, you're so
delighted, that's putting it lightly.</i>

1288
01:33:59,074 --> 01:34:02,108
ALEX: I've like never smiled so much.
Don't say anything too.

1289
01:34:02,110 --> 01:34:04,544
SANNI (OVER PHONE): <i>I wanna see it.
What's that?</i>

1290
01:34:04,546 --> 01:34:06,947
<i>Like, I told you I
wanted to see that smile.</i>

1291
01:34:06,949 --> 01:34:08,715
ALEX: Yeah, I know.

1292
01:34:08,717 --> 01:34:11,984
SANNI (OVER PHONE): <i>I've like never cried
so hard and I didn't even see it coming.</i>

1293
01:34:11,986 --> 01:34:15,624
<i>Showing that you talk now,
I was just like "Blah."</i>

1294
01:34:16,025 --> 01:34:17,823
ALEX: Yeah, no,
I'm, I'm sort of at,

1295
01:34:17,825 --> 01:34:20,730
at risk of crying here too, I'm
like, I feel quite emotional.

1296
01:34:21,297 --> 01:34:24,667
Yeah, no, don't cry
San-san it will make me cry.

1297
01:34:25,900 --> 01:34:28,403
But Claire says cry it.

1298
01:34:28,669 --> 01:34:30,903
I think the movie would be better
if I burst into tears, but I,

1299
01:34:30,905 --> 01:34:32,471
I don't really want to.

1300
01:34:32,473 --> 01:34:34,573
But, well I do want
to kind of, but.

1301
01:34:34,575 --> 01:34:37,143
SANNI (OVER PHONE):
<i>I'm so happy.</i>

1302
01:34:37,145 --> 01:34:38,577
Oh, God.

1303
01:34:38,579 --> 01:34:40,679
SANNI (OVER PHONE):
<i>I'm so happy.</i>

1304
01:34:40,681 --> 01:34:42,515
Yeah.

1305
01:34:42,517 --> 01:34:45,454
SANNI (OVER PHONE):
<i>I'm so happy.</i>

1306
01:34:46,587 --> 01:34:47,821
Well, okay.

1307
01:34:47,823 --> 01:34:50,924
I'll see you, I'll see you in
like six hours or something.

1308
01:34:50,926 --> 01:34:53,160
SANNI (OVER PHONE): <i>And
I'll see you soon, yeah.</i>

1309
01:34:53,162 --> 01:34:54,928
Yeah, okay, I love you.

1310
01:34:54,930 --> 01:34:56,830
Thank you so much,
I appreciate you.

1311
01:34:56,832 --> 01:34:57,930
SANNI (OVER PHONE):
<i>I love you too.</i>

1312
01:34:57,932 --> 01:34:59,499
You're, you're the best.

1313
01:34:59,501 --> 01:35:01,100
SANNI (OVER PHONE): <i>And I appreciate
you and I'm really proud of you.</i>

1314
01:35:01,102 --> 01:35:02,672
ALEX: Yay.

1315
01:35:04,105 --> 01:35:05,438
I don't know.

1316
01:35:05,440 --> 01:35:06,939
I don't, I don't think the mountain
looked that scary this morning.

1317
01:35:06,941 --> 01:35:10,076
It's funny because it does look the
same and hiking up looked the same,

1318
01:35:10,078 --> 01:35:12,211
everything just felt pretty much
the same, except I just didn't have

1319
01:35:12,213 --> 01:35:14,648
much of a backpack.

1320
01:35:14,650 --> 01:35:16,849
I did, I forgot
my rope and rack.

1321
01:35:16,851 --> 01:35:18,452
I felt so good.

1322
01:35:18,454 --> 01:35:20,953
I mean that's why I'm so happy that the
experience was like what I hoped for.

1323
01:35:20,955 --> 01:35:23,523
I didn't compromise on any of the
things that were super important to me.

1324
01:35:23,525 --> 01:35:25,895
Huh, yeah, that felt good.

1325
01:35:26,662 --> 01:35:28,461
MARK: All right.

1326
01:35:28,463 --> 01:35:30,899
So what's next, what
are you gonna do Alex?

1327
01:35:31,100 --> 01:35:32,666
ALEX: Mmm, I'm probably
gonna hang board.

1328
01:35:32,668 --> 01:35:34,137
MARK: You're gonna hang board?

1329
01:35:34,803 --> 01:35:37,906
A normal person would probably
take the afternoon off.

1330
01:35:49,485 --> 01:35:51,518
ALEX: Thanks again for
coming out and climbing with me.

1331
01:35:51,520 --> 01:35:52,853
TOMMY (OVER PHONE):
<i>I'm really proud of you.</i>

1332
01:35:52,855 --> 01:35:55,057
<i>Good work not plummeting
to your death.</i>

1333
01:35:55,857 --> 01:35:57,627
<i>Really glad it's over.</i>

1334
01:35:58,927 --> 01:36:02,732
ALEX: Oh, my gosh,
you're here, oh, my God!

1335
01:36:04,833 --> 01:36:08,838
SANNI: Oh, my gosh, I'm so happy
for you, you did it and you're done.

1336
01:36:10,806 --> 01:36:12,872
You know some of the people
that have come before you,

1337
01:36:12,874 --> 01:36:15,541
they, they didn't quit
while they were ahead.

1338
01:36:15,543 --> 01:36:16,943
ALEX: Maybe it's good.

1339
01:36:16,945 --> 01:36:19,549
Maybe I don't need to
keep charging ahead.

1340
01:36:20,048 --> 01:36:23,049
Right now there's some kid that just read
about El Cap being soloed and he's like.

1341
01:36:23,051 --> 01:36:24,550
"What's bigger?"

1342
01:36:24,552 --> 01:36:26,085
Like "What's cooler?"

1343
01:36:26,087 --> 01:36:28,889
And I mean somebody's gonna think of
something and it's gonna be cooler.

1344
01:36:28,891 --> 01:36:33,062
But I don't know if that will be me.
Maybe, I don't know.

1345
01:36:38,557 --> 01:36:43,557
Subtitles by explosiveskull

1346
01:36:44,705 --> 01:36:49,645
<i>♪ Look what you'e
overcome to get here ♪</i>

1347
01:36:51,046 --> 01:36:56,552
<i>♪ Look at the
distance you run ♪</i>

1348
01:36:57,753 --> 01:37:03,693
<i>♪ The doubts that you've pushed down,
the fear that you've drown out ♪</i>

1349
01:37:03,993 --> 01:37:09,097
<i>♪ When they said that
it couldn't be done. ♪</i>

1350
01:37:09,698 --> 01:37:16,105
<i>♪ And your head and your heart,
in your hands and your head. ♪</i>

1351
01:37:18,940 --> 01:37:22,744
<i>♪ In your heart,
in your hands ♪</i>

1352
01:37:23,244 --> 01:37:29,117
<i>♪ And your head and
your heart, in your hands</i> ♪

1353
01:37:30,953 --> 01:37:36,559
<i>♪ Gravity's a fragile thing ♪</i>

1354
01:37:42,263 --> 01:37:48,003
<i>♪ All of the words that
you left in your throat ♪</i>

1355
01:37:48,803 --> 01:37:54,042
<i>♪ All of the
dreams in the dark ♪</i>

1356
01:37:55,077 --> 01:38:00,949
<i>♪ Now you can finally see them,
they meet you at your destination. ♪</i>

1357
01:38:01,684 --> 01:38:06,821
<i>♪ Now that you
made it so far. ♪</i>

1358
01:38:07,154 --> 01:38:13,695
<i>♪ And your head and your heart,
in your hands and your head. ♪</i>

1359
01:38:16,064 --> 01:38:21,203
<i>♪ And your heart,
in your hands and your head. ♪</i>

1360
01:38:22,971 --> 01:38:27,276
<i>♪ And your heart,
in your hands and your head. ♪</i>

1361
01:38:28,243 --> 01:38:33,682
<i>♪ Gravity's a fragile thing. ♪</i>

1362
01:38:37,185 --> 01:38:41,089
<i>♪ It don't define you. ♪</i>

1363
01:38:43,391 --> 01:38:49,931
<i>♪ Gravity will lie to you,
lie to you ♪</i>

1364
01:39:17,426 --> 01:39:22,298
<i>♪ Tell them to never let go ♪</i>

1365
01:39:24,165 --> 01:39:29,171
<i>♪ Theres a
beautiful valley below. ♪</i>

1366
01:39:30,939 --> 01:39:35,878
<i>♪ When yo hold on so
tightly to the dream ♪</i>

1367
01:39:37,945 --> 01:39:43,118
<i>♪ Gravity is just
a fragile thing ♪ ♪</i>