1 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:07,000 Downloaded from YTS.MX 2 00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:13,000 Official YIFY movies site: YTS.MX 3 00:00:16,200 --> 00:00:20,267 (crickets and birds chirping) 4 00:00:34,633 --> 00:00:38,533 - [Narrator] Time doesn't wait for anybody. 5 00:00:38,567 --> 00:00:41,367 None of us has any time to waste. 6 00:00:45,400 --> 00:00:47,267 They say time is money 7 00:00:49,767 --> 00:00:54,500 but the things you can buy with money are cheap. 8 00:00:54,533 --> 00:00:56,333 Time you can pay for, 9 00:00:57,200 --> 00:00:59,067 but you can't buy any. 10 00:01:03,833 --> 00:01:08,167 In spite of all our modern conveniences and technologies, 11 00:01:10,200 --> 00:01:12,333 everybody tells you they don't have 12 00:01:12,367 --> 00:01:15,033 time for this or time for that. 13 00:01:17,333 --> 00:01:20,267 Well, of course they don't, 14 00:01:20,300 --> 00:01:24,333 because they lose their perspective of the present. 15 00:01:24,367 --> 00:01:27,233 The present is just a fleeting moment. 16 00:01:27,267 --> 00:01:29,600 It comes, and then it's gone, 17 00:01:31,067 --> 00:01:33,667 maybe without even being noticed. 18 00:01:38,733 --> 00:01:41,400 We think about the past, 19 00:01:41,433 --> 00:01:43,633 and nostalgia makes us sad, 20 00:01:45,333 --> 00:01:47,667 or we worry about the future, 21 00:01:48,800 --> 00:01:52,333 and are too anxious to be in the present. 22 00:01:54,133 --> 00:01:57,367 The past and the future are just concepts 23 00:01:57,400 --> 00:01:59,533 that exist in the present. 24 00:02:06,133 --> 00:02:08,033 There's nowhere to go. 25 00:02:08,067 --> 00:02:09,667 Nothing happens next. 26 00:02:11,667 --> 00:02:13,467 You are already here. 27 00:02:16,333 --> 00:02:17,667 - Good afternoon. - Hello. 28 00:02:18,800 --> 00:02:23,133 How do you say cowboy, yeah, yeah, cowboy. 29 00:02:23,167 --> 00:02:26,233 (lighthearted music) 30 00:02:52,400 --> 00:02:55,200 - [Rob] There's a tough question. 31 00:02:56,300 --> 00:02:58,067 Your hands numb yet? 32 00:02:58,100 --> 00:03:00,233 - [Craig] Yeah, it's cold. 33 00:03:02,567 --> 00:03:04,500 - [Rob] It's snowing, dude. 34 00:03:04,533 --> 00:03:06,467 Here we go Craig, it's snowing. 35 00:03:06,500 --> 00:03:08,267 - [Craig] Here's the hunt for Red October. 36 00:03:08,300 --> 00:03:10,267 It's like, how long would your body last 37 00:03:10,300 --> 00:03:11,533 if you just ran out there in a Speedo 38 00:03:11,567 --> 00:03:12,800 and a pair of swim fins. 39 00:03:12,833 --> 00:03:15,433 Swam all the way out and back. 40 00:03:17,233 --> 00:03:19,700 (bright music) 41 00:03:46,233 --> 00:03:48,567 (horn honks) 42 00:03:56,100 --> 00:03:58,433 (drum music) 43 00:04:18,733 --> 00:04:20,767 - Um, we came all the way from warm Hawaii 44 00:04:20,800 --> 00:04:24,467 to come and surf in freezing cold Scotland. 45 00:04:28,100 --> 00:04:31,167 (men laugh) 46 00:04:31,200 --> 00:04:33,067 - That's the quote of the trip right there. 47 00:04:33,100 --> 00:04:34,033 - For sure. 48 00:04:41,433 --> 00:04:42,700 I surfed in Alaska once, 49 00:04:42,733 --> 00:04:46,133 but I never remember a thing like that. 50 00:04:52,533 --> 00:04:53,600 - You know, check in a couple times a year, 51 00:04:53,633 --> 00:04:55,800 and just think to yourself, what do you want to do. 52 00:04:55,833 --> 00:04:57,667 - Wait, when did you win your first world title? 53 00:04:57,700 --> 00:04:58,633 - 92. 54 00:04:58,667 --> 00:05:01,100 - The year I was born. 55 00:05:01,133 --> 00:05:04,400 - Yeah, just a little jump on you there. 56 00:05:09,633 --> 00:05:12,633 (adventurous music) 57 00:06:23,633 --> 00:06:25,233 - [Albee] I remember what, being in like my early 20s 58 00:06:25,267 --> 00:06:27,067 and catching waves on backdoor and pipe 59 00:06:27,100 --> 00:06:28,300 thinking that there's no way in hell 60 00:06:28,333 --> 00:06:29,733 I'll ever catch a wave better than that. 61 00:06:29,767 --> 00:06:32,300 The bar's set so high now. 62 00:06:32,333 --> 00:06:33,367 Whether or not I've already caught 63 00:06:33,400 --> 00:06:36,633 the best wave of my life is, is the question that-- 64 00:06:36,667 --> 00:06:37,733 - [Shane] You don't want to know. 65 00:06:37,767 --> 00:06:38,667 - [Albee] I don't really want to know the answer to, 66 00:06:38,700 --> 00:06:41,200 I always want to be asking the question. 67 00:06:41,233 --> 00:06:42,800 That's the question I've been asking myself 68 00:06:42,833 --> 00:06:45,133 since I was a little kid. 69 00:06:45,167 --> 00:06:47,633 (bell ringing) 70 00:06:51,167 --> 00:06:53,400 - [Stephanie] I feel like contests are so natural to me. 71 00:06:53,433 --> 00:06:55,400 I can just show up, go to my work, 72 00:06:55,433 --> 00:06:57,367 do my thing, and leave, 73 00:06:57,400 --> 00:06:59,500 but knowing that I'm going on a trip with Dave, 74 00:06:59,533 --> 00:07:01,733 yeah, I'm definitely a little bit nervous about this 75 00:07:01,767 --> 00:07:05,233 because this is not really my specialty. 76 00:07:06,267 --> 00:07:08,400 - From my own travels and meeting people, 77 00:07:08,433 --> 00:07:10,567 it's just purely my own experience but, 78 00:07:10,600 --> 00:07:13,767 it's that we don't really acknowledge each other 79 00:07:13,800 --> 00:07:16,100 beyond just that accomplishment. 80 00:07:16,133 --> 00:07:18,500 I feel like, great, you won that contest, 81 00:07:18,533 --> 00:07:20,767 or great, you surfed this wave. 82 00:07:20,800 --> 00:07:22,200 You don't go, hey, you know like, 83 00:07:22,233 --> 00:07:23,800 the way you smile when you surf 84 00:07:23,833 --> 00:07:26,433 lights up the whole line, that's so cool. 85 00:07:26,467 --> 00:07:27,367 Thank you for doing that. 86 00:07:27,400 --> 00:07:28,633 And you're just like, well that's just me, 87 00:07:28,667 --> 00:07:30,200 I'm just doing that. 88 00:07:30,233 --> 00:07:31,500 - When I look at photos, I'm like, 89 00:07:31,533 --> 00:07:34,067 why am I smiling all the time? 90 00:07:34,100 --> 00:07:35,567 Instantly, like as soon as I'm paddling out, 91 00:07:35,600 --> 00:07:37,600 I'm just like, go out, this is sick. 92 00:07:37,633 --> 00:07:39,500 It's like, yeah. 93 00:07:39,533 --> 00:07:41,367 - I've always wanted to know if that was 94 00:07:41,400 --> 00:07:43,567 something you think about, and it just is happening. 95 00:07:43,600 --> 00:07:45,133 - Yeah, it just happens. 96 00:07:45,167 --> 00:07:46,800 (laughs) 97 00:07:46,833 --> 00:07:48,567 - [John] This is the winner here. 98 00:07:48,600 --> 00:07:49,433 - [Kelly] Here we go, let's go. 99 00:07:49,467 --> 00:07:50,567 - [John] Alright, ready? - Let's do it. 100 00:07:50,600 --> 00:07:51,433 This is real race. 101 00:07:51,467 --> 00:07:52,300 - Go! 102 00:07:52,333 --> 00:07:53,100 - Go. 103 00:07:53,133 --> 00:07:54,667 - [John] Mine is light and nimble. 104 00:07:54,700 --> 00:07:56,700 - [Kelly] Yeah, but his legs are shorter 105 00:07:56,733 --> 00:07:58,200 than Tom Carold. 106 00:07:59,167 --> 00:08:01,033 - What the fuck. 107 00:08:01,067 --> 00:08:03,067 You know what I think? 108 00:08:03,100 --> 00:08:05,133 (laugh) 109 00:08:05,167 --> 00:08:06,167 That's what I think about that crap. 110 00:08:06,200 --> 00:08:10,200 - That's a full brotherly tantrum right there. 111 00:08:15,167 --> 00:08:16,300 - [John] I didn't even think about that, 112 00:08:16,333 --> 00:08:17,000 that we hadn't done a trip before. 113 00:08:17,033 --> 00:08:18,367 - We haven't done a trip, huh? 114 00:08:18,400 --> 00:08:20,100 We've just like surfed around and, 115 00:08:20,133 --> 00:08:22,100 well I know we like the same kind of waves. 116 00:08:22,133 --> 00:08:23,567 - Wait, do you still get nervous? 117 00:08:23,600 --> 00:08:24,433 - In contests? 118 00:08:24,467 --> 00:08:25,300 - Yeah. 119 00:08:25,333 --> 00:08:26,167 - Sometimes. 120 00:08:26,200 --> 00:08:29,033 Just, if I don't feel confident, I do. 121 00:08:29,067 --> 00:08:32,067 - [Narrator] There's an expression in the psychology world. 122 00:08:32,100 --> 00:08:34,300 If you spot it, you got it. 123 00:08:35,433 --> 00:08:37,567 The judgments you make of others 124 00:08:37,600 --> 00:08:41,067 are quite often reflections of yourself. 125 00:08:44,833 --> 00:08:47,500 (upbeat music) 126 00:08:53,633 --> 00:08:56,133 - [Kelly] If you get to a spiritual place within yourself 127 00:08:56,167 --> 00:08:58,333 and you're competing and that's all connected, 128 00:08:58,367 --> 00:09:02,500 that you're happy for the other guy when he beats you. 129 00:09:04,600 --> 00:09:06,433 That's a hard place to obtain, 130 00:09:06,467 --> 00:09:09,133 because if you're totally comfortable with yourself, 131 00:09:09,167 --> 00:09:11,667 which is more important than winning something, 132 00:09:11,700 --> 00:09:15,500 that you're happy when the other person wins. 133 00:10:45,667 --> 00:10:47,433 - [Stephanie] It's funny because I feel like Dave and I 134 00:10:47,467 --> 00:10:50,267 are very similar people in a lot of ways, 135 00:10:50,300 --> 00:10:54,433 but the paths that we've taken are so different. 136 00:10:54,467 --> 00:10:55,567 - [Dave] That's a skill I don't have. 137 00:10:55,600 --> 00:10:56,767 - [Stephanie] But you could though. 138 00:10:56,800 --> 00:10:59,300 - [Dave] Yeah, if there's enough incentive in it for me. 139 00:10:59,333 --> 00:11:00,533 - [Stephanie] If you could ride like tons 140 00:11:00,567 --> 00:11:02,167 of different boards in every heat. 141 00:11:02,200 --> 00:11:06,333 - [Dave] Yeah, that would, that would probably help. 142 00:11:16,533 --> 00:11:20,367 You've been on the road for probably 10 years maybe, yeah? 143 00:11:20,400 --> 00:11:21,533 Nine, 10 years. 144 00:11:21,567 --> 00:11:22,633 - [Stephanie] Yes, this is my 10th year. 145 00:11:22,667 --> 00:11:24,533 - [Dave] And how does that, does it feel different? 146 00:11:24,567 --> 00:11:27,133 - Yeah, I had a pretty one track mind for a lot of years, 147 00:11:27,167 --> 00:11:28,700 just like, yeah, let's just surf and win, 148 00:11:28,733 --> 00:11:30,600 and that's kind of it. 149 00:11:41,667 --> 00:11:44,633 - [Albee] If I could tell the 10 or 12 year old me 150 00:11:44,667 --> 00:11:47,200 that I was going to get to do this trip, 151 00:11:47,233 --> 00:11:51,367 just me and Dorian, I would literally lose my mind. 152 00:11:54,833 --> 00:11:57,067 (both laughing) 153 00:11:57,100 --> 00:11:58,133 That was there. 154 00:11:58,167 --> 00:12:02,100 I was like, you can't get much better than that. 155 00:12:02,833 --> 00:12:06,033 (children laughing) 156 00:12:07,100 --> 00:12:08,233 - Ow, no, hey. 157 00:12:13,300 --> 00:12:15,767 (bright music) 158 00:12:25,633 --> 00:12:29,100 (grass blade squeaking) 159 00:12:33,567 --> 00:12:35,367 - [Dave] I remember just being a little guy 160 00:12:35,400 --> 00:12:37,800 and hearing that line, we should dance 161 00:12:37,833 --> 00:12:41,567 like no one's watching, and it's just like yeah, totally. 162 00:12:41,600 --> 00:12:43,000 That's just it. 163 00:12:44,133 --> 00:12:46,667 How to surf, how I'm feeling to surf, 164 00:12:46,700 --> 00:12:49,667 and if things come from that, awesome, 165 00:12:49,700 --> 00:12:51,633 what a blessing, and if they don't, whatever. 166 00:12:51,667 --> 00:12:53,433 I'm just having a grove in my own way, 167 00:12:53,467 --> 00:12:55,200 and that's cool, too. 168 00:12:55,233 --> 00:12:56,300 - [Stephanie] Must be a pretty good dancer, then, 169 00:12:56,333 --> 00:12:57,267 if you stand by that. 170 00:12:57,300 --> 00:12:59,167 - [Dave] I'm terrible. 171 00:13:05,267 --> 00:13:08,400 - [Craig] Nice to get the waves. 172 00:13:08,433 --> 00:13:10,300 Doesn't always happen. 173 00:13:18,567 --> 00:13:20,133 Did we want to show up on this trip 174 00:13:20,167 --> 00:13:22,367 and drive around for three days in the rain 175 00:13:22,400 --> 00:13:25,200 and get completely skunked? 176 00:13:25,233 --> 00:13:28,700 That's now like what we would plan, right? 177 00:13:28,733 --> 00:13:30,200 - [Rob] I'm fine with it, though. 178 00:13:30,233 --> 00:13:30,900 - [Craig] And you just roll with it, 179 00:13:30,933 --> 00:13:32,267 you roll with the punches, like, 180 00:13:32,300 --> 00:13:35,400 you deal with that, and out of that comes 181 00:13:35,433 --> 00:13:37,633 good things, I'm convinced. 182 00:13:56,300 --> 00:13:57,600 - [John] You have this idea of like 183 00:13:57,633 --> 00:13:59,733 the ultimate wave of Jaws, you could be 184 00:13:59,767 --> 00:14:02,467 waiting until you're 30 right now for that chance. 185 00:14:02,500 --> 00:14:04,333 - Yeah, or it could be weeks. 186 00:14:04,367 --> 00:14:05,567 - Or it could be weeks. 187 00:14:05,600 --> 00:14:09,233 And you always have to be ready for that. 188 00:14:09,267 --> 00:14:12,067 (waves crashing) 189 00:14:28,233 --> 00:14:30,767 (birds calling) 190 00:14:42,367 --> 00:14:43,733 - [John] So dry reef. 191 00:14:43,767 --> 00:14:48,267 - [Kelly] Yeah, like a foot of water on the reef. 192 00:14:48,300 --> 00:14:51,033 - [John] It's not really a wave. 193 00:14:52,200 --> 00:14:54,200 - You kind of blend the gender thing, you get rid of it. 194 00:14:54,233 --> 00:14:55,800 It's like, yeah, I've always thought it was funny, 195 00:14:55,833 --> 00:14:58,733 I mean, there's always the big complement, 196 00:14:58,767 --> 00:14:59,833 you surf like a guy. 197 00:14:59,867 --> 00:15:04,600 In my head, my most favorite male surfers to watch 198 00:15:04,633 --> 00:15:06,200 are Joel-- 199 00:15:06,233 --> 00:15:07,133 - Surf like women? 200 00:15:07,167 --> 00:15:09,100 - Yourself, Tom Curren. 201 00:15:10,200 --> 00:15:12,533 And to me having that splash of femininity 202 00:15:12,567 --> 00:15:15,567 is exactly what makes it so stylish. 203 00:15:17,200 --> 00:15:18,767 It just looks magical. 204 00:15:18,800 --> 00:15:21,267 To me, that's what style is. 205 00:15:22,700 --> 00:15:25,433 (relaxed music) 206 00:16:27,233 --> 00:16:29,167 - Did you ever compete? 207 00:16:29,200 --> 00:16:30,267 - I competed. 208 00:16:31,300 --> 00:16:33,367 Just wasn't built for it. 209 00:16:34,700 --> 00:16:36,633 Have like guys paddling over me, and I'd be like, 210 00:16:36,667 --> 00:16:40,633 aw, I don't need to fight you for this wave. 211 00:16:40,667 --> 00:16:42,600 This isn't what it's about. 212 00:16:42,633 --> 00:16:44,633 You go, you can have it. 213 00:16:47,300 --> 00:16:49,200 - If I try and save my queen right now, 214 00:16:49,233 --> 00:16:53,267 you're going to get me check in the next move. 215 00:16:53,300 --> 00:16:54,500 - Uh huh, I am. 216 00:17:01,133 --> 00:17:05,133 - I realized I won a few games on the last move, 217 00:17:05,800 --> 00:17:07,667 and it just put this thing in my head, 218 00:17:07,700 --> 00:17:08,800 don't ever count yourself out. 219 00:17:08,833 --> 00:17:09,667 - Yeah, you never know. 220 00:17:09,700 --> 00:17:10,567 - You're never out. 221 00:17:10,600 --> 00:17:11,633 You don't know. 222 00:17:11,667 --> 00:17:13,733 You could get, like surfing, you could get a 10 223 00:17:13,767 --> 00:17:15,233 and a guy gets an interference and gets in your way, 224 00:17:15,267 --> 00:17:16,533 you won somehow. 225 00:17:18,067 --> 00:17:19,667 - For me, if I was at an event 226 00:17:19,700 --> 00:17:21,100 and I would see a section, 227 00:17:21,133 --> 00:17:22,167 and it was just a beautiful section 228 00:17:22,200 --> 00:17:25,433 I kind of wanted to admire more than I wanted to 229 00:17:25,467 --> 00:17:28,167 burn through, I'd just glide through it. 230 00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:30,533 Aw, this feels amazing. 231 00:17:30,567 --> 00:17:33,400 'Cause I used do that, and I'd just get destroyed. 232 00:17:33,433 --> 00:17:34,633 4.2, 3.5, five. 233 00:17:37,600 --> 00:17:39,067 - I just love it. 234 00:17:39,100 --> 00:17:41,367 I love, I love like the test of seeing if 235 00:17:41,400 --> 00:17:43,333 I still have what it takes. 236 00:17:43,367 --> 00:17:46,133 You see yourself like being interested in it 237 00:17:46,167 --> 00:17:49,333 once you're like in your 30s and closer to 40? 238 00:17:49,367 --> 00:17:50,400 - Yeah. 239 00:17:50,433 --> 00:17:52,100 I think a lot of guys are out there like antsing, 240 00:17:52,133 --> 00:17:54,200 like, I gotta get it done right now, this winter. 241 00:17:54,233 --> 00:17:56,767 Like it's El Nino or this is the swell. 242 00:17:56,800 --> 00:17:58,733 But when you see guys that have a long career 243 00:17:58,767 --> 00:18:01,233 with so many good waves over so many years, 244 00:18:01,267 --> 00:18:04,333 it's just like, you can kind of take your time. 245 00:18:04,367 --> 00:18:05,533 - [Kelly] You have 20 years. 246 00:18:05,567 --> 00:18:06,533 - Yeah. 247 00:18:06,567 --> 00:18:08,433 - What made y'all want to, was it the process 248 00:18:08,467 --> 00:18:10,300 or the actual end result? 249 00:18:10,333 --> 00:18:13,033 - Um, it was both, it was both, 250 00:18:13,067 --> 00:18:14,600 and there were definitely years 251 00:18:14,633 --> 00:18:16,400 where it was one or the other. 252 00:18:16,433 --> 00:18:18,633 It wasn't always like both at the same time. 253 00:18:18,667 --> 00:18:20,033 - Yeah. 254 00:18:20,067 --> 00:18:22,100 - I, a lot of time-- 255 00:18:22,133 --> 00:18:24,433 - I think for me, though, like 100 percent, 256 00:18:24,467 --> 00:18:26,600 like looking backwards, definitely the process 257 00:18:26,633 --> 00:18:28,600 and not the end, like not the after. 258 00:18:28,633 --> 00:18:29,567 - Yeah. 259 00:18:29,600 --> 00:18:31,333 - I have that feeling like. 260 00:18:31,367 --> 00:18:34,400 - Yeah, I think early on in my career 261 00:18:34,433 --> 00:18:35,733 it was definitely the process. 262 00:18:35,767 --> 00:18:37,500 I mean, I wanted to win the world title 263 00:18:37,533 --> 00:18:39,567 in a really bad way, but to me it was like 264 00:18:39,600 --> 00:18:43,600 I can't get there unless I get my process right. 265 00:18:46,133 --> 00:18:48,600 (upbeat music) 266 00:19:37,667 --> 00:19:38,800 Or like having pipe to yourself. 267 00:19:38,833 --> 00:19:42,300 - Would you rather have a heat at firing 268 00:19:43,300 --> 00:19:45,533 Cloudbreak by yourself or with one other guy, 269 00:19:45,567 --> 00:19:49,700 or have a free surf with a couple of your friends? 270 00:19:54,233 --> 00:19:57,600 - Yeah, probably free surf, I guess. 271 00:19:57,633 --> 00:19:59,733 I don't know, 'cause it's also like, 272 00:19:59,767 --> 00:20:01,400 that's our one stage, you know, 273 00:20:01,433 --> 00:20:06,100 like to kind of show the world what we have or whatever. 274 00:20:06,133 --> 00:20:07,467 Look it, my guy came back. 275 00:20:07,500 --> 00:20:10,367 He crawled back in from the ocean. 276 00:20:16,200 --> 00:20:17,667 - Everyone's rushing to become something, 277 00:20:17,700 --> 00:20:19,800 but it's like no, there's a natural progression 278 00:20:19,833 --> 00:20:21,733 that you just evolve into who you are 279 00:20:21,767 --> 00:20:25,400 and it's never going to be probably what you set out to be. 280 00:20:25,433 --> 00:20:26,600 It could be completely different, 281 00:20:26,633 --> 00:20:28,533 but you just have to be open to it. 282 00:20:28,567 --> 00:20:30,533 - I grew up idolizing Tom Curren. 283 00:20:30,567 --> 00:20:31,467 - Yeah. 284 00:20:31,500 --> 00:20:32,267 - And I was like, I want to surf like him. 285 00:20:32,300 --> 00:20:33,133 I'd try to hold my arms like him. 286 00:20:33,167 --> 00:20:35,067 I did these like head snaps and stuff, 287 00:20:35,100 --> 00:20:38,567 and then I think at some point I realized 288 00:20:38,600 --> 00:20:39,767 I'm not fucking Tom Curren. 289 00:20:39,800 --> 00:20:40,467 - Exactly. 290 00:20:40,500 --> 00:20:42,700 - I have a different approach, 291 00:20:42,733 --> 00:20:45,800 I have a different foundation and I think differently. 292 00:20:45,833 --> 00:20:47,567 I'm not the same personality. 293 00:20:47,600 --> 00:20:49,333 - Yeah, different things calm me down, 294 00:20:49,367 --> 00:20:51,067 different things get you psyched up. 295 00:20:51,100 --> 00:20:53,433 - But you also have, if you're trying to be someone else, 296 00:20:53,467 --> 00:20:55,700 if you're not offering the world what you have 297 00:20:55,733 --> 00:20:57,567 for people to see. 298 00:20:57,600 --> 00:20:58,467 - Yeah. 299 00:21:01,567 --> 00:21:05,700 - [Narrator] His holiness the 14th Dalai Lama was once asked 300 00:21:06,700 --> 00:21:10,133 what surprised him most about mankind, 301 00:21:10,167 --> 00:21:14,300 and he answered, "Man, because he sacrifices his health 302 00:21:15,233 --> 00:21:17,633 "in order to make money, 303 00:21:17,667 --> 00:21:22,000 "and then he sacrifices his money to regain his health. 304 00:21:24,733 --> 00:21:28,200 "He lives as if he's never going to die, 305 00:21:30,133 --> 00:21:33,600 "and then dies, having never really lived." 306 00:21:37,167 --> 00:21:39,700 (relaxed music) 307 00:25:22,500 --> 00:25:25,233 (waves lapping) 308 00:25:53,467 --> 00:25:56,600 - [Man] If we actually look at the state of the world now 309 00:25:56,633 --> 00:25:59,233 and yes, we live in one of the most peaceful times 310 00:25:59,267 --> 00:26:02,633 between each other in terms of war and conflict, 311 00:26:02,667 --> 00:26:05,400 we actually live in the most violent time 312 00:26:05,433 --> 00:26:08,700 between ourselves and the planet. 313 00:26:08,733 --> 00:26:11,500 Like we're just literally destroying the place 314 00:26:11,533 --> 00:26:13,267 that looks after us. 315 00:26:32,767 --> 00:26:35,033 The weight? 5? 316 00:26:36,067 --> 00:26:39,167 The dog escaped. Bella, catch Estrella! 317 00:26:44,467 --> 00:26:47,200 - [Interviewer] What would you be doing if you didn't surf? 318 00:26:47,233 --> 00:26:48,633 Would you be a fisherman? 319 00:26:48,667 --> 00:26:52,700 - [Craig] I don't like, uh, blood, yeah. 320 00:26:52,733 --> 00:26:55,200 - I hung out with this chef in Brazil. 321 00:26:55,233 --> 00:26:57,433 He had this tank, and there was all these fish 322 00:26:57,467 --> 00:26:59,767 swimming around in it, and there was a duck sitting on top. 323 00:26:59,800 --> 00:27:02,367 You take the fish out of the water, 324 00:27:02,400 --> 00:27:04,100 and no one really phases, right? 325 00:27:04,133 --> 00:27:05,367 You see a fish out of the water, it's like 326 00:27:05,400 --> 00:27:06,767 flopping around, you know, kind of. 327 00:27:06,800 --> 00:27:08,733 It's like gasping for air. 328 00:27:08,767 --> 00:27:10,200 - Struggling (indistinct). 329 00:27:10,233 --> 00:27:12,433 - And the whole audience didn't really care. 330 00:27:12,467 --> 00:27:16,033 And then he grabbed the duck, and stuck it underwater. 331 00:27:16,067 --> 00:27:18,600 And everyone freaked out. 332 00:27:18,633 --> 00:27:19,467 Because-- 333 00:27:19,500 --> 00:27:20,367 - Did the exact same-- 334 00:27:20,400 --> 00:27:22,433 - And they're like, you're killing him. 335 00:27:22,467 --> 00:27:24,800 And he's like, well, what's the difference? 336 00:27:24,833 --> 00:27:27,167 - No difference at all. 337 00:27:27,200 --> 00:27:29,600 - This is getting deep, sorry. 338 00:27:30,633 --> 00:27:35,033 - Who would you rather be, the duck or the fish? 339 00:27:35,067 --> 00:27:36,300 - [John] Where's the blob? 340 00:27:36,333 --> 00:27:37,433 Should have got that thing out today. 341 00:27:37,467 --> 00:27:38,733 - [Kelly] Ready? 342 00:27:40,767 --> 00:27:42,433 Oh. 343 00:27:42,467 --> 00:27:46,167 - [John] I feel like that should have gone farther out. 344 00:27:46,200 --> 00:27:48,733 (bells chiming) 345 00:27:52,433 --> 00:27:54,333 - [Craig] Is that a good wave, is it a totally shitty wave, 346 00:27:54,367 --> 00:27:56,467 is it rideable, is it unrideable? 347 00:27:56,500 --> 00:27:57,533 - [Rob] Yeah. 348 00:27:57,567 --> 00:27:58,733 - [Craig] It's the whole experience of just trying 349 00:27:58,767 --> 00:28:00,267 to like go out there and just wing it and see if it's-- 350 00:28:00,300 --> 00:28:02,500 - [Rob] See if it's a wave. 351 00:28:03,733 --> 00:28:06,467 (cattle mooing) 352 00:28:14,467 --> 00:28:18,600 (children singing in foreign language) 353 00:29:15,667 --> 00:29:18,633 - [Stephanie] The traveling is getting better for me 354 00:29:18,667 --> 00:29:22,767 because I'm opening more up and excited to think 355 00:29:22,800 --> 00:29:25,033 oh cool, I wonder what is around the corner 356 00:29:25,067 --> 00:29:26,733 that will happen next. 357 00:29:28,700 --> 00:29:33,033 (children singing in foreign language) 358 00:29:48,533 --> 00:29:51,467 - [Rob] I might have been your age, a little bit older, 359 00:29:51,500 --> 00:29:55,500 when I was just like, yeah, sure, let's go. 360 00:29:55,533 --> 00:29:57,367 - [Craig] Where are we going? 361 00:29:57,400 --> 00:29:59,700 - [Rob] Craig's just, are you the yes man? 362 00:29:59,733 --> 00:30:02,067 - [Craig] Yeah, I just go along on it for the ride. 363 00:30:02,100 --> 00:30:06,233 - [Rob] He's the yes man, he's just like yeah, I'm in. 364 00:30:07,300 --> 00:30:09,767 (bright music) 365 00:31:52,133 --> 00:31:53,333 We almost hit. 366 00:31:53,367 --> 00:31:55,200 That was pretty close. 367 00:31:55,233 --> 00:31:58,100 I could see the fear in your eyes. 368 00:32:03,533 --> 00:32:05,133 - I didn't look at that. 369 00:32:05,167 --> 00:32:06,767 - Oh, that was heavy. 370 00:32:12,133 --> 00:32:15,067 (meditative music) 371 00:33:17,467 --> 00:33:20,300 - [Dave] For me, surfing actually can be the perfect 372 00:33:20,333 --> 00:33:22,200 type of rite of passage where we have 373 00:33:22,233 --> 00:33:24,633 these distinct moments where you're different 374 00:33:24,667 --> 00:33:26,600 after you experience it. 375 00:33:26,633 --> 00:33:30,633 You're like, okay, I'm going to do this forever. 376 00:33:31,800 --> 00:33:34,467 (bright music) 377 00:36:37,067 --> 00:36:41,200 - [Narrator] Much like our bodies, our minds love to wander. 378 00:36:49,767 --> 00:36:53,733 When our thoughts drift, maybe to something at work, 379 00:36:53,767 --> 00:36:58,100 we fail to notice a set approaching on the horizon, 380 00:37:00,100 --> 00:37:02,367 or the changing of the tide. 381 00:37:16,233 --> 00:37:18,200 - [Kelly] I think my phone is 382 00:37:18,233 --> 00:37:21,133 the biggest part of stress in my life. 383 00:37:21,167 --> 00:37:23,133 - [John] Like I'm kind of addicted to my phone, 384 00:37:23,167 --> 00:37:24,800 but when I get away from it, it's so nice. 385 00:37:24,833 --> 00:37:26,400 - [Kelly] Yeah, in a way it's kind of cool 386 00:37:26,433 --> 00:37:28,300 just to let it all go. 387 00:37:34,300 --> 00:37:36,767 (upbeat music) 388 00:40:25,600 --> 00:40:26,700 - I'm getting pretty good at darts, you guys. 389 00:40:26,733 --> 00:40:28,767 We've been shooting this for a while. 390 00:40:28,800 --> 00:40:29,800 Come on. 391 00:40:29,833 --> 00:40:31,367 - When you're a kid, you're just like fuck it, 392 00:40:31,400 --> 00:40:33,767 I'm 18, I have nothing to lose. 393 00:40:33,800 --> 00:40:35,400 And when you get married and have kids 394 00:40:35,433 --> 00:40:36,433 and that kind of stuff. 395 00:40:36,467 --> 00:40:37,367 - [Albee] Because I don't know how much longer 396 00:40:37,400 --> 00:40:38,800 I'll feel comfortable on waves like that. 397 00:40:38,833 --> 00:40:40,300 - Oh, there you go. 398 00:40:40,333 --> 00:40:42,267 - [Albee] Oh, is it in? 399 00:41:06,533 --> 00:41:09,233 - [Shane] If you give a really good slab surfer 400 00:41:09,267 --> 00:41:12,033 like a blank canvas and said like 401 00:41:12,067 --> 00:41:16,067 design something that you really want to surf, 402 00:41:16,100 --> 00:41:18,533 like the optimum slab, 403 00:41:18,567 --> 00:41:19,433 like what would it look like, 404 00:41:19,467 --> 00:41:20,567 what would it look like all around it, 405 00:41:20,600 --> 00:41:24,400 what would the reef look like, how would it be shaped? 406 00:41:24,433 --> 00:41:27,400 It's like it was designed by somebody with a big planer. 407 00:41:27,433 --> 00:41:30,100 Got the cliffs above it are like a big amphitheater 408 00:41:30,133 --> 00:41:31,567 and there's like these natural 409 00:41:31,600 --> 00:41:34,400 built-in stairs all the way down. 410 00:41:41,333 --> 00:41:43,667 (grim music) 411 00:42:39,567 --> 00:42:43,433 Some of those waves are better off left alone. 412 00:43:36,300 --> 00:43:39,433 - [Albee] Holy shit, that was the one. 413 00:43:51,733 --> 00:43:54,000 On the back, on the back. 414 00:43:58,167 --> 00:44:00,500 Yee-hoo, that was a good one. 415 00:44:05,067 --> 00:44:07,600 (intense music) 416 00:44:47,667 --> 00:44:48,700 It would be radical by yourself, 417 00:44:48,733 --> 00:44:51,033 but it's so much better to surf (indistinct) dude. 418 00:44:51,067 --> 00:44:52,267 - [Shane] Holy. 419 00:45:07,533 --> 00:45:10,067 (indistinct) 420 00:45:22,500 --> 00:45:23,367 Holy shit. 421 00:45:29,400 --> 00:45:31,133 Well yeah, that was like 422 00:45:31,167 --> 00:45:33,433 as scary as a wave that big can get, probably. 423 00:45:33,467 --> 00:45:35,233 - [Albee] It's like almost as scary as Jaws 424 00:45:35,267 --> 00:45:38,200 in the waves were like just overhead. 425 00:45:38,233 --> 00:45:39,533 - [Man] I think what makes a good trip is 426 00:45:39,567 --> 00:45:42,233 just the people you hang out with. 427 00:45:42,267 --> 00:45:44,267 - [Man] Yeah, if you're going to sit in a car 428 00:45:44,300 --> 00:45:45,567 and drive for 12 hours, you're not 429 00:45:45,600 --> 00:45:47,200 ripping each other's heads off. 430 00:45:47,233 --> 00:45:49,300 You're laughing about it. 431 00:45:50,300 --> 00:45:54,633 - [Narrator] The message here is that life is for living. 432 00:45:54,667 --> 00:45:57,500 If you have the intention to live each moment 433 00:45:57,533 --> 00:46:02,333 to the fullest, even if you miss a few waves along the way, 434 00:46:02,367 --> 00:46:04,367 you're still doing good. 435 00:46:08,800 --> 00:46:09,800 - Does that count? 436 00:46:09,833 --> 00:46:10,767 - No. 437 00:46:10,800 --> 00:46:12,200 Hundred percent out. 438 00:46:12,233 --> 00:46:15,100 (both laugh) 439 00:46:15,133 --> 00:46:18,533 ("Parade" by Kevin Morby) 440 00:46:23,400 --> 00:46:27,533 If you come to find out who you are 441 00:46:29,333 --> 00:46:33,467 Then may you find out, may you find out who you are 442 00:46:35,767 --> 00:46:40,100 And if you come to search for what is lost 443 00:46:41,733 --> 00:46:46,067 Then may you find it, may you find it at any cost 444 00:46:48,633 --> 00:46:51,233 And if you come 445 00:46:51,267 --> 00:46:54,433 Over from far 446 00:46:54,467 --> 00:46:58,600 May it not touch you, or ever do you harm 447 00:47:01,467 --> 00:47:03,767 And if you come 448 00:47:03,800 --> 00:47:06,333 Oh so soft 449 00:47:07,367 --> 00:47:11,500 You may look up one day and you'll be hard 450 00:47:17,567 --> 00:47:21,100 If I were to die today 451 00:47:23,800 --> 00:47:28,067 Slaughtered in that masquerade 452 00:47:30,333 --> 00:47:34,467 The last thing that you'd hear me say 453 00:47:36,667 --> 00:47:40,200 Put my body on display 454 00:47:42,200 --> 00:47:44,733 In the parade 455 00:47:49,667 --> 00:47:54,000 Passing slowly through the town 456 00:47:55,767 --> 00:48:00,100 My feet, they cannot touch the ground 457 00:48:01,467 --> 00:48:04,200 Of the parade 458 00:48:47,300 --> 00:48:51,233 All of my friends were there 459 00:48:53,600 --> 00:48:56,333 Waiting on me 460 00:48:59,800 --> 00:49:01,667 All 461 00:49:02,833 --> 00:49:06,333 The glory was there 462 00:49:06,367 --> 00:49:09,100 Waiting on me 463 00:49:13,067 --> 00:49:15,733 And I was there 464 00:49:19,133 --> 00:49:21,667 Waiting on me 465 00:49:25,200 --> 00:49:27,800 I have come 466 00:49:27,833 --> 00:49:31,133 And I will go 467 00:49:31,167 --> 00:49:33,633 Just to stay 468 00:49:34,833 --> 00:49:36,633 In 469 00:49:47,767 --> 00:49:49,333 - [Interviewer] Are you, have you gotten to a point yet 470 00:49:49,367 --> 00:49:50,467 where you get burnt out? 471 00:49:50,500 --> 00:49:51,633 - Check. 472 00:49:51,667 --> 00:49:52,533 - Oh no. 473 00:49:59,700 --> 00:50:01,600 I haven't, I don't have a finger up yet. 474 00:50:01,633 --> 00:50:03,067 I got two moves I can do. 475 00:50:03,100 --> 00:50:04,533 I got to practically flip a coin here. 476 00:50:04,567 --> 00:50:07,433 - Actually that's not a bad move.