- Last time... - We've gone bananas.
..the sewers strutted their summertime stuff.
It's a sizzling summer!
Emma dove in at the deep end...
This is my Superman look.
..and rose to the top.
CHEERING
Oh, my God! Oh, my God!
Tim failed to shine.
You gave yourself a lot to do.
But gambling on simplicity got the better of Dawn...
There isn't a plan B for this.
..and she was the first sewer to say goodbye.
- I've had a lovely time. - Good.
- This week... - Out the way!
..the sewers are out to conquer colours and prints.
- We are fighting. - Whoo!
Taking on tricky tops.
Really quite stressed about this.
Transforming challenging colour combos.
The glasses are off, it means business.
And making stunning outfits...
Ooh, that's a cheeky reveal!
..in just one colour.
Pink, pink and pink.
If there's a mistake now, nowt I can do about it.
Pfft!
- In we go! - Raring to go!
LAUGHTER
So excited to be here, week two!
Colours and prints week!
I'm happy to be here, yeah.
Last week was an absolute stinker, but we survived.
I love colours.
I don't think I've ever worn beige.
Love something that's bright, love a pattern.
If I can get both together, even better.
Colour makes an outfit, really.
If you get the right colours then it can make your whole look.
I'm not a big fan of colour generally.
I think it will be pushing me out of my comfort zone a bit.
I'm super excited for colour and prints week.
I dressed for the occasion. Let's do it!
Hello, welcome back.
- How are we feeling? - Good! - Excited!
Well, you're looking great -
lots of patterns, lots of colours.
Which is fab, cos today the theme is prints and colours.
So, Esme, what have you got for 'em?
Here we go. Pass them round.
- Thank you. - Have a look. What have we got?
Ooh.
We want you to make an adaptive shell top.
And because we're celebrating print, we want you to pattern match.
And for this challenge,
we've invited back adaptive fashion designer,
the fabulous Victoria Jenkins!
APPLAUSE
- Hello! - SEWERS: - Hello!
It's a pleasure to be back for another
adaptive pattern challenge.
Adaptive fashion relates to garments that have been designed
for a wider range of disabilities and conditions.
For this challenge, there is a high/low hem,
invisible zips into the side seams
so that, if you have medical devices,
you can access them a bit easier.
And there's also a wider neck, which means they can get it over the head.
We'd like these tops to be pattern matched
across the patch pocket
and across both zips at the side seam.
So, if you get it right,
those features should be virtually invisible.
Right, you've got three and a half hours.
Your time starts now.
Out the way! I'm joking.
LAUGHTER
Pattern matching means joining patterned fabric pieces...
Is that regular? I think it's regular, isn't it?
..so its design continues unbroken across a seam.
The sardines are fun.
Making the sewers' choice of fabric crucial.
No idea if I'll be able to match it.
For how its print repeats
drastically affects how easy it is to match.
See, I'm worried that that's a bit of a funny repeat, that pasta.
And there's adaptive design elements to tackle as well.
- Right. - Adaptive fashion is something I feel extremely passionate about.
And I'm so excited that Victoria is here.
Welcome back, Victoria.
And hello, Alice, our gorgeous model.
So we've got an adaptive piece here that Alice is modelling.
How's this been adapted?
We've put a wider neckline in
so that, if you've got a cochlear implant
or just have limited mobility, it's easier to get it on.
Then we've put invisible zips down the side.
What do you like about this?
I love the high/low hem.
It's one of my biggest bugbears -
when you've got way too much fabric there and no fabric at the back.
LAUGHTER
And this is just perfect.
What do you think they'll find tricky about this challenge?
Invisible zips are always tricky.
We've asked them to use a bit of bias binding
to face the neckline and the armhole.
So that needs to be really neatly done.
And the other thing that is really tricky is the pattern matching.
Well, some prints are kind of geometric and obvious,
whereas if they were doing something with a floral
or something that's hand-drawn,
they might look about the same but they might be slightly off.
The choice of print will make a big difference.
So, where do we have to pattern match on this outfit?
Side seams. And also the pocket.
Really important.
Right, well, let's see how they get on.
I'm really quite stressed about this
because I've never pattern matched before.
- To successfully pattern match... - Right.
..it's vital the sewers line-up their print.
That will do.
Factoring in the one centimetre seam allowance.
If you don't take into account your seam allowance,
your pattern matching's lost and all that hard work was for nothing.
To make the top, the fabric must be cut so the print will match
on the pocket and side seam when sewn up.
Then the bust darts are sewn,
the patch pocket assembled,
then positioned so the print matches and is stitched in place.
Next, the centre back seam is sewn
and the back joined to the front at the shoulders.
Bias tape is added to the neckline to finish the raw edges
and bias tape is partially attached to the armhole.
Invisible zips are inserted into each side seam,
ensuring the pattern still matches.
The bias tape is top-stitched around the armholes.
Finally, the top is hemmed for a nice, clean finish.
- Good morning. - Hey, morning.
How are you feeling about this challenge?
The adaptive side of it is really great,
cos it's quite a personal thing for me.
My dad broke his neck in a motorbike accident.
Very luckily, he's still with us -
but he can't feel with his hands.
- So I've used really big buttons... - Lovely.
..with quite large buttonholes so he can do them himself.
A PhD student in engineering,
Beth not only sews adaptive wear for dad, Paul,
but crafts clothing for her own specific needs.
I have scoliosis,
which is the curvature of the spine.
And so being able to make dresses or tops that celebrate my back
from all of the lifting I do is quite an empowering thing.
Without sewing, that wouldn't be possible for me.
Why did you choose this fabric?
I really like the different blocks of colours,
and it makes the pattern matching feel worth it.
Lining up the fabric's pattern so the seams will be invisible...
I thought this would be easy to match,
but it's actually a bit mind-boggling.
..is proving more complicated than first appeared.
I'm just getting a bit lost in the print.
I thought the repeats were really small -
and they're actually really big.
There it is.
It's not there, though.
- There it is. - Morning.
- And how are you feeling about this challenge?
I'm quite excited about this one.
I think it's great what you do.
Because my grandma had one leg. She was an amputee.
She really struggled to get, like, trousers
- and things like that. - Yeah.
Living in Leeds, Adele is obsessed with bold, funky prints.
A typical Adele garment is bright colours,
big shoulders, puffy sleeves -
whatever makes me feel happy, really.
Anything you're concerned about?
If you'd have asked me that three months ago,
I'd have said invisible zips.
- But I've done that many invisible zips recently. - Good.
- Yeah. - So this couldn't really have been any better for you,
- this challenge? - Ooh.
Hopefully. Fingers crossed.
ADELE LAUGHS
Everything's cut out.
So, one pocket, one front, two backs.
First sew.
Oh, my God. Finally.
I'm now just putting in my bust darts.
LEWIS SIGHS
- Yeah, that's nonchalant. - Oh, you all right?
- Hi, you all right? - Yeah, yeah, I'm just passing by.
- Just passing by, actually. - Yeah. - Oh, gosh!
Yeah, doing some sewing, are you?
Yeah, yeah. God, what a coincidence you're here.
29-year-old Lewis was taught to sew by his mum
and now likes to make classic and historical workwear.
I like to make things that are going to last
and they're not attached to, like, a sort of fleeting style.
- I like your print. - Thank you.
- Phew. - I come from a family of animal print wearers.
- Dress like jungle cats in Yates's. - Yikes.
The key to a good dart is,
rather than knotting off in the machine,
you just take it out and knot it by hand.
SAM SIGHS
Cos I've got big fingers, it's a little bit tricky.
How are you getting on?
I've done my bust darts.
So I'm currently just making sure that my pocket
is exactly where I want it to be.
Rebecca favours historical style ballgowns and skirts...
I love working with lace, satin -
anything sort of shiny and swishy.
..and is used to making garments adjusted for her own needs.
Almost everything I make for myself is adaptive.
I have chronic stomach pain.
And so, for me, adaptive fashion is making sure
that there's nothing tight around my stomach.
The first test of the sewers' pattern matching skills...
Pocket, pocket, pocket, pocket.
..is the top's breast pocket.
It's the first thing you're going to see
so you want it absolutely spot-on.
Right, wish me luck.
I've changed my top-stitch colour to match each bit of the patterns.
Cos they said they want the pocket to be invisible,
so I'm, like, "Well, I'm going to give you invisible."
The only thing is,
I've cut this so that my pocket is slightly too small.
Oh, so annoyed!
Sat there admiring my pattern matching, and I was so happy.
I stitched along the top of my pocket,
which makes a pocket not very functionable.
This is for a woman.
Do you do women and men?
Mainly men, to be fair.
I mean, I've made a couple of dresses.
Having been sewing for 2.5 years...
My sewing style is quite streetwear based.
..Sam enjoys crafting clothing after a hard day
working on heating systems.
All good?
Is there any transferable skills
between being a gas man and a designer seamster?
Er... I like the process of learning how it goes together,
how it comes apart and...
That's the same with a boiler or an outfit.
- Yeah, yeah. - I felt like we were in a job interview then.
SAM LAUGHS
OK, next we've got the centre back.
This is a nice, easy, straight line.
Seam should look roughly like this by the time it's sewn up.
Next, shoulder seams are sewn.
So I'm connecting the front to the back.
Pin-stitch and press the seam allowances open.
I'm happy with it.
That pattern's gorgeous, isn't it?
It's got a really pretty pink bird on it.
I like birds. My nan used to keep budgies.
I used to have a chicken as well.
I had a one-legged chicken.
I loved that chicken.
Have you any more pets?
I have a cat. You can see it on the board.
Oh, she's lovely, yeah.
She is my pride and joy.
At home in Bedfordshire, Minnie's cat, Dusty,
lounges while her pet parent cranks out
fitted ladieswear in striking fabrics.
Sewing is what really opened up the colours for me.
If I was buying something, I would be a lot more reserved.
I do like prints -
if you don't ask me to pattern match them.
MINNIE LAUGHS
Yes, I understand that.
- Good morning. - Hello, good morning.
What made you choose this fabric?
I thought it would be an easy one to match -
but each cluster of daisies, they're slightly different.
Have you matched prints before?
I have done a bit of pattern matching.
This is a bit more challenging than some of the ones
I've worked with before.
Based in York, barista Anna likes to freestyle.
I think my sewing style is definitely chaotic.
Oh, I haven't turned it on.
Ha-ha! That would help.
- Scissors first, thinking after. - ANNA LAUGHS
Normally, when I make stuff, I don't really use patterns.
I like to just be free and design and do what I want to do.
Sewers, you're halfway through.
Oh, I'm sweating a bit now.
Time is flying.
I'm just about to do the neckline -
and this is using bias tape as a facing,
which apparently is a thing.
This is a bias binding.
It's called bias binding because you cut on the bias,
which gives it a bit of a stretch.
Known as bias tape or bias binding,
the fabric must be carefully folded round the neckline...
The trick is to just make sure that you stretch it as you go.
..before top-stitching all the way round.
I'm wanting to make sure that I go back to the neckline
before the end.
Because there's a few bits where my top-stitching hasn't caught.
The binding is intended to be hidden inside.
Just enclosing the binding.
But Sam's using it to edge the neckline.
I don't know if it's right or not.
I'm not happy with that at all.
SAM SIGHS
So, here we are with contrast under-stitching.
Green and orange.
It does mean that my under-stitching is now visible,
but I might as well scream it at them.
One hour left!
Where the time has gone?
Next, I'm going to do the armholes.
Oh, more binding.
We do the armholes the same way as we did the neck hole.
The only difference is that the armholes
are going to be left open so that we can then insert the zip.
Sewn on one side.
And now I'm going to sew the other side on.
Everything in sewing comes in pairs.
Two arms, two legs, two boobs.
Generally.
As do the adaptive top's invisible zips.
It's zip time.
Inserting them is the trickiest task on the whole garment.
Usually, when you're putting in a side zip,
it would be the other way up.
But with this one, the zip is upside down
so that it's easier for someone to get into it.
It's only now...
I really want to see if I can get that just lined up.
..that the sewers find out if they've cut out correctly
and they can pattern match their side seams.
Hopefully that will happen when I put the zip in.
Pretty close. That could've been literally a mil over.
But I'm happy with that.
That's completely out.
Oh, brilliant.
There you go, I made a hole there when I tried to zip it up.
Oh! Not what I wanted to do.
Sewn it on the wrong way.
SAM SIGHS
Made a right meal of this.
SAM SIGHS
Sewers, you've got half an hour left!
Half an hour? And I've still got quite a lot to do.
Oh, the pressure.
I've got a match on one side - but not the other.
With zips in, the armholes can be finished.
A little tuck under the arm.
Something's stretching somewhere.
Oh, no.
Oh, that's so annoying.
I've just basically, like, stitched a little pleat into the armhole.
To finish off, the sewers must trim the zip,
trap it within the folded over hem...
OK, I'm doing a double roll.
I'm not that much of a rule breaker.
..before pressing and finishing with the top-stitch.
It's the hem that I'm concerned that I won't have time with.
Five minutes left.
Feel like I'm going to explode, you know?
Very unlikely that I'm going to finish at this point.
I have finished all of the sewing,
so all I need to do now is just some neatening up.
That's done, but I need to press, I need to snip the threads.
Ah!
It's a right mess.
One minute.
Man, this is going to be tight.
Oh, my gosh.
I haven't done my front hem.
Oh, man.
So disappointed in myself.
This is absolutely hideous.
Needles up, sewers.
Your time is up.
Blimey, that was mental.
Bring your mannequins forward.
Oh, well done.
11 pattern matched adaptive shell tops
created in just 3.5 busy hours.
# Change, change your life
# Take it all... #
There's some pockets that I can't see from here,
so some people have really well on matching.
Let's see how well you've done in all the other
invisible details.
# Change, change your life
# Take it all... #
- It's terrific. - The bias binding, I think,
around the neckline is really, really good.
Invisible zip is great.
Pattern matching works.
The pocket looks really good and lines up nicely.
I mean, there, that's very good matching. Well done.
Just a little tiny bit lumpy.
But the pattern matching: really first-rate.
- Thank you. - Well done.
Pretty good.
Everywhere I look, super clean, precise sewing.
I think it's incredible how well you've matched this pocket.
And that zip is pure invisible.
You've finished the hem.
Flawless. Well done.
You chose a really difficult fabric.
You've made the pocket too small.
It's a shame the zips aren't equal on both sides.
It's finished, but there are some rough edges to it.
The fabric choice was lovely,
and the matching is really great.
The zip is in. It's working. It's pretty invisible.
It's a shame you haven't done the hem.
Clearly you've run out of time,
which is a shame because I think everything else
is really well done.
Why are there two lines of the top-stitching?
Because my first didn't catch, so I went round it again.
It is a shame that you've had to go back and resew the neckline.
I also don't love the green top-stitching on the pocket.
I think the matching is absolutely perfect.
The matching on the side seams - you are absolutely on point.
The pattern matching on it is really, really good.
What's this here?
I caught the fabric in the zip when I first tested the zip.
I think the bottom hem, actually, is quite cleanly sewn.
I think it just needed a good flat press.
But it is pretty well done.
Nice weight of fabric.
Just right for this garment.
And you've pattern matched the pocket
absolutely to perfection.
Now...
You've got your zip in upside down.
- Big boo-boo, I'm afraid. - Yeah.
You have got a hem on.
But, I mean, your zip's upside down.
Love the weight of the fabric.
But I think the print has let you get away
with not pattern matching on the side seams.
I mean, you are absolutely miles out of alignment there.
I like this bias you've done,
but it's not what we asked you to do.
You've not followed the method.
- It's pretty haphazard. - Yeah.
I like the weight of the fabric and the print.
I like that it's nice and bold.
The pocket's well pattern matched.
But it's all puckered where you've put the zip in.
The neckline is quite stretched,
and then the hem's not finished on the back.
But also, it's giving you a big step at the side.
It's OK.
The matching on your pocket is absolutely spot-on. Well done.
You've got a bit of a tuck under the armhole.
Now, let's have a look at your invisible zips.
Yeah, it doesn't quite line-up at the bottom.
There are some imperfections,
but I'd say on the whole not too bad.
I'll start with the good bit,
and that's the pattern matching -
which on this pocket is absolutely spot-on.
I don't know that I could say the same exactly for the sides.
Unfortunately, you haven't got a hem.
It wasn't your best day at the sewing machine, unfortunately.
Victoria, Patrick and Esme will now rank
the adaptive tops from bottom to top.
In 11th place.
And actually, it could've been a few of you.
But it's Sam.
You just didn't follow the pattern.
Yeah.
Adele is in tenth.
Angie takes ninth.
Heather is eighth.
Emma, seventh.
Lewis, sixth.
Tim, fifth.
Minnie, fourth.
And Beth is third.
In second place is...
..Anna.
We were down to some pretty fine margins,
but it was a fantastic sew. Well done.
In first place is Rebecca.
The fabric's great and it was really well sewn.
Thank you.
APPLAUSE
Victoria, thank you so much for joining us again.
Thank you for having me back.
I think it's really amazing to continue to talk
about adaptive fashion and how important it is.
So thrilled to have specifically won the adaptive fashion challenge
as an invisibly disabled person.
Last again. I thought I was following the pattern.
I was as far from the pattern as you can be.
That pattern challenge was so much tougher than I expected.
Patrick said my zip was a boo-boo.
And to be honest, I think that was quite polite.
What an idiot. If you get knocked down, get up again,
you're never going to keep me down.
# I get knocked down
# But I get up again
# You're never gonna keep me down
# I get knocked down
# But I get up again
# You're never gonna keep me down... #
Welcome back, sewers.
Now it's time for the transformation challenge,
where you take something old and drab
and make it new and fab.
So, Patrick, what do you want them to do today?
Esme and I are hoping that this one doesn't leave us
feeling a little bit off colour.
Oh...
We are giving you a load of clothes that are purple and brown.
LAUGHTER
As you may know, I like a bit of brown.
Esme can't stand it.
Esme loves a bit of purple.
I'm not a big fan.
So we are looking for interesting interplays
between our beloved browns and purples.
- OK. - The judges can't be here for this,
so they're going to pop off and probably have
a moan about brown and purple.
He'll moan more.
You've got an hour and a half, and your time starts...now.
Let's get this off.
- What have we got? - Ooh.
LAUGHTER
It's shiny and sparkly.
I think it's absolutely terrifying.
Hmm.
Purples would be one of my go-tos.
But I do not like brown.
It doesn't suit me. Look.
Who suits brown?
# Golden brown Texture like sun... #
What are we doing, torturing ourselves with this lot?
We've given them a massive selection of different shades
of browns and purples.
And I'm really interested to see how they combine the two.
We want to see an interesting transformation
that plays with those two colours in a way
that makes us both love them.
I don't think purple and brown go that badly together.
Hopefully I can make something that the judges appreciate.
I don't mind a bit of brown.
It's a bit earthy.
I spend a lot of time round earth.
For nature-loving Tim,
two years of sewing have turned into an exploration of colour.
When I first started out, I used to be a lot of greys and blues.
And I thought I only looked good in one colour.
And that's so not true. I look good all the time, darling.
TIM LAUGHS
My plan is a halter-neck
from which I will drape little fabrics
and have them striping down.
This is a real grandma blouse.
I really want to do a top with contrast colour stripes.
I mean, look at that.
Ha! Probably went to bingo, that did.
- So, sewing. - Yes.
You are Miss Colour. You can do any colour.
I love colour.
When dopamine dresser Emma isn't bouldering with her family,
she gets the same rush from her unique sewing style.
Oh, I love to sew bright colours.
If you see someone wearing a totally crazy print,
it could raise a smile and help someone have a nicer day.
And I'm planning to make an asymmetric top.
- Ooh. - It's going to have this, like, ruched left boob.
- Yeah. - And then a brown sweeping boob like that.
Great. So that's quite good if you've got
a lop-sided breast, which I do.
Most people do.
Making a top.
It's going to have, like, a sort of over-bust.
I'll see what I can do with the rest to have something coming off it.
I'm just pinning like mad.
Trying to use a lot of the features of this suit jacket
and this silky purple.
Hello, Angie! I'm liking this combo.
It's an upside down jacket at the moment,
but it's going to be a skirt.
- Oh, that's very clever. - With some flared bits at the side.
I think I might make a cheeky belt that's very big and brown.
Retired lecturer Angie loves to create outfits
for her daughters, Kate and Rosa,
and is a recent convert to colour.
Before I was sewing,
everything in the wardrobe was black.
Because it was easy, I was working.
Whereas now, I'm really excited by colour.
And I'm certainly getting more creative.
I like that you've thrown in a cheeky belt bow.
- Go big or go home. - Absolutely.
- Come on! Five! Whoo! - Get in!
I'm taking all the sleeves out of the jackets,
making a mini skirt.
Alternate it. One panel brown, one panel purple.
While most of the sewers are making tops or bottoms,
a few want to win the judges over with something ambitious.
It'd be quite nice to make a kind of corset-style thing,
and then the purple over the bust.
But I do want a skirt as well.
I have two evening wear dresses.
But because of where I've cut the zip out,
it's a little bit risque.
Maybe make some lacing?
We don't want to be showing any crack, basically.
- Ah-ha! - This is great.
Thank you. I've got a bit of a cut-out going on.
- Right. - And then I'm going to add a purple flounce at the bottom.
Heather gets inspiration holidaying with boyfriend Seano.
I will drag him round fabric stores in Hong Kong, Thailand -
all over the place.
He's definitely a cheerleader when it comes to that.
You want to show off a bit of cheeky hip?
- Yeah, why not. - Well, I see what's happening, actually.
- People are eager to impress Esme with cheekiness. - Yeah.
For far too long, the colour brown has been ignored
from the wardrobe.
Actually, it can be very sleek, very sexy,
very ooh, ooh, ooh.
Woohoo!
We're halfway through!
Eek.
It's getting there, isn't it?
I'm trying to interlace them
so we have a nice even spread of colours.
Well, I used to make little roses out of fabric when I was a child.
I'm thinking that might be quite a good way to interplay
the fabrics together.
So I'm just going to make brown lacing for the top part
where it's purple, and then purple lacing
for the bottom part where it's brown.
I just used all my off-cuts to make a bit of a feature underneath.
I think I've done a pretty even mix of the colours.
I'm now hand-stitching everything.
Who are you more worried about irritating?
- ANNA WHISPERS: - Probably Esme.
I'm just going to add some bold straps.
I want some Esme-pleasing things on there, cos I love her.
I'm just making a big belt now.
Who would you rather annoy with your colour palette?
I wouldn't want to get on the wrong side of Esme.
I wouldn't want to meet her in a dark alley.
How long have we got left?
For far too long,
Patrick has been giving the colour purple a bad name!
Justice for purple!
- Down with Patrick! - Hear, hear!
Ten minutes left!
I mean, I think that's looking a bit cute.
Hearts. Can't go on the front.
Oh, my God, that'd be rude, wouldn't it?
Purple, brown, purple.
And I hope it's good enough for 'em.
It's looking a bit basic.
Trying to quickly add something to the middle.
Lots of practice from doing this on my friend's hair at school.
So I'm putting a zip in so that my dummy can put this on
- and take it off. - One minute.
Oh, bags of time.
Oh, buttonholes.
Oh!
Glasses are off. That means business.
It's proper chocolate bar, this.
I'm just putting the belt in and tying the bow.
That's fun.
Infuriating.
- Ah! - I think I'm done.
Yeah, there's nothing more I can really do in a minute.
Needles up, sewers.
That is your time.
EMMA SIGHS
La-la!
Wowsers! It's amazing!
I never thought purple and brown went together!
# Don't you want me, baby? #
11 brown and purple garments transformed
from judges' hell to haute couture in just 90 minutes.
Judges, if you'd like to come in.
Patrick and Esme have no idea whose is whose.
So, what do you think?
I mean, despite some brilliant efforts...
PATRICK CHUCKLES
..I'm still not sure I don't love purple.
LAUGHTER
We've got this very dramatic sleeveless dress.
The interplay of the different fabrics
I think works really well.
Having the purple here, the purple there
and the purple round the neck
is making a statement about the combination.
These great big cut-outs,
which have been edged in this plaited fabric
work really, really well.
That could be saucy.
We've got a full-length evening gown.
It absolutely skims the body.
This detail at the back is incredibly clever.
They have woven strips of purple
over this lame.
I like the combination.
Looks great.
So what we have is a matching top and skirt set
in this brown leatherette
with this ditzy print purple.
Weirdly, I think the two do kind of work.
This looks to me like you'd have a huge bust.
We've got a sort of ruffled bandeau top.
I'm not quite sure why we've got sort of strips at the bottom.
It's a shame they didn't put a frill to echo this.
I'm not so sure I love the way these stripes look.
They just look a bit heavy.
I really like that they've placed that there.
Is it my heart?
I wasn't aware you had one.
ESME LAUGHS
I like the way that they've played with the colours.
It's clever how they've mixed it up.
The fact that they've overlaid the reverse across the bust
and then twisted it into a rosette,
it just works really nicely.
I think it's quite simple.
They have taken what looks like a purple denim jacket,
turned it upside down.
We've got a block of brown on the side
and a bit of brown round the belt, and that's kind of it.
I like how they've used this jacket.
We've got the lapel.
And sleeves up here with the buttons.
The interplay of the colours is pretty good.
We've got little sort of slashes of purple.
I think it's great.
It really jumps out at you.
The fact that we've got asymmetry in the silhouette
and in the positioning of the fabrics,
the combination works really well.
A great sort of rosette created using both of the fabrics.
I think it's great.
I'm not sure this feels like an interesting interplay
of two different colours.
All they've done is put alternating panels.
It's a very simple blocking of the two.
I agree.
I like what this sewer has done in creating these stripes.
The drape at the back is reflected in the brown drape at the front.
The whole thing feels really balanced.
I agree with you.
I think it looks good.
Patrick and Esme will now rank the garments
from last to first.
In 11th place is the wrap skirt with the purple buttons.
- That's Sam. - We were looking for a slightly more interesting
interplay between the colours.
In 10th place, it's the skirt with the little tie.
That's Angie.
I felt you needed to make a more interesting shape.
In ninth is Lewis.
Eighth, Adele.
Seventh, Beth.
Sixth, Minnie.
Fifth is Heather.
Anna is fourth.
And Rebecca is third.
In second place...
..is the halter-neck top with the drape.
That's Tim.
We really loved the strips you've got on the top.
So in first place is this wonderful asymmetric top
with the floral print.
That's Emma.
APPLAUSE
Who would've thought that horrible purple floral
could look so great with that wonderful dark chocolate brown.
- It's fantastic. Well done. - Thank you.
That went pretty well.
To come first in the transformation challenge
is a real boon for me today.
I'm very pleased.
Well done.
After the pattern challenge and the transformation,
I think I need to really get my game on
in the made-to-measure.
It weren't the result that I wanted.
I've been last twice - like, back-to-back -
but I've got a bit of fight in me.
# Chocolate, oh. #
There's one more colourful challenge for the sewers to tackle.
Here we are.
And for the first time in the competition,
they will be making clothes for other people.
I'm really excited to get started.
Welcome back, sewers.
And hello to our lovely models.
So today is the made-to-measure challenge.
Now, the judges want you to create an outfit using just one colour.
Now, you can use any shade or texture
of that colour, and there are a lot of shades.
That woman made a whole book of the 50 shades of grey.
LAUGHTER
Have you read it?
Yeah. I did read it, yeah.
LAUGHTER
Bet you did!
- Saucy minx. - Mm.
Right, you've got five hours.
Your time starts...
..now!
Right, then. Is it all right if I just quickly measure you?
The sewers have been able to design and practice
their garments at home, and now need to ensure...
I might need to shorten the sleeve a little bit.
..that they will fit the models perfectly.
Is this on your fullest part of your bust, yeah?
Thank you. Jolly, jolly good.
So, what is a one-colour outfit?
Effectively, the outfit can be anything they like.
But, really, what we're doing is testing their ability
to create something that has a visual impact.
They can play with different hues and shades and textures,
but one dominant colour.
I'm going to be fascinated to see
where they put the different shades.
What kind of things do you think they might find difficult?
Well, I mean, it's a made-to-measure challenge,
so for the first time they're working
on a model that isn't themselves.
So managing their time, getting it finished.
And it has to be well-sewn.
So they've got quite a lot to do, haven't they, really?
The colour that I've chosen is green.
I really like green.
I think it's a calming colour.
To probably no-one's surprise,
I'm making something out of pink.
Going for blue. But I really wanted to include a stripe,
so I've made, like, a patchwork.
I wear a lot of blue.
TIM LAUGHS
Blue's my favourite.
There's no purples.
No browns.
I think Patrick and Esme are going to be really disappointed.
EMMA LAUGHS
Hello, my ginger genius.
ADELE LAUGHS
- How are we getting on? - I'm good, thank you.
- One ginger to another. - Yeah.
So you're doing green?
Because they always say red and green should never be seen.
- Hmm. - But I think red and green should be seen.
- Yeah. - You're rocking it today, I'm rocking it.
Adele's using two shades of green to make split colour culottes
with deep pleats, an invisible zip and pockets.
They'll be paired with a matching cross-back top.
- You're a powerful ginger. - Yes.
- There's no messing with a ginger. - I am.
- We are fighters. - We are, we're the ginger nuts!
- The ginger nuts! Come on! - Come on!
ADELE LAUGHS
Whoo!
I'm just trying to take my time a little bit with this,
make sure I get the placement right.
This is gorgeous, isn't it?
- Yeah, do you like it? - Love it.
I dyed it. It's called a broderie anglaise.
I just think of it: fabric with holes.
- Like you've left it in a cupboard with a moth. - Yeah.
Lewis' broderie anglaise will become a tiered skirt
with large pockets and slit beneath.
His cotton apron top will have a similar design to Adele's.
And what is it? As in, what is it?
This is an apron-back top, so it's cross-back.
My chosen colour is blue,
and I'm making a full-length maxi bodycon dress.
It's going to be quite glamorous, it's going to be quite sexy.
Minnie's figure-hugging stretch knit dress
will use two shades of blue velvet
and have the seam allowances on the outside as a decorative feature.
With no fastenings, the trunk and arm pieces
will have to fit perfectly or are liable to bunch up.
It's three big long tubes.
Don't put it that way!
No, no. I'm just...
MINNIE LAUGHS
It's simple. So it needs to be good.
Yeah, I know.
OK.
Sam's also keeping things simple.
What are you making?
A green kaftan with couple of prints on the front and the back.
Sam's kaftan will have pockets in the front seams
and an inverted box pleat in the back.
His design will come in two differing hues of green.
Why the green?
And why these shades and this print?
I just like the colour green, to be honest with you.
It's a nice cooling colour.
Fine.
Right, we are chopped.
Cut all my bits out now.
That stress is over.
Giving it a good press.
And then we can start the box pleat section.
The outfit that I'm making today is a waistcoat
made out of this plain green fabric
and a maxi skirt made out of this green-on-green patterned fabric.
Emma's waistcoat with welt pockets and buttons
will be paired with a drop-waist skirt with invisible zip.
Together, it's one of the most technical outfits
in the sewing room.
- Collar and revere, back straps. - Yes.
- Welt pockets. - Yeah.
Button front on the waistcoat. Zip on the skirt.
I mean, it does seem like a lot to do.
Yes, I know. I'd best crack on.
Rebecca's another sewer...
- REBECCA: - Oh, my God - why did I do this to myself?
..whose made-to-measure means a mountain of work.
Four.
These look rather jolly, don't they?
There are eight godets,
and then each godet is set in its own godet.
- PATRICK LAUGHS - That's then attached to the skirt.
So they're godets squared?
Using three shades of her trademark pink,
Rebecca's creating an incredible 16 godets -
curved fabric pieces designed to add volume
and flare to her cotton dress.
She's also creating double tulip sleeves
and inserting an invisible zip down the centre back.
We're definitely not going to mark you down
- for under-ambition on this one. - Thank you very much.
- You've got quite a lot of work to do. - I do.
Right, so, I'm going to start with the top.
Just because I know it's going to be slightly easier.
I'm loving the brightness.
Thank you. We've got four different shades of pink.
I leaned in when they said I could use as many shades but one colour.
Heather's making dark pink wide-stripe
cotton trousers.
Her light pink satin top will have halter-neck, an invisible zip
and a flared peplum at the waist for a chic silhouette.
It's giving me Legally Blond vibes.
Part of the inspiration was,
when the Barbie movie came out,
me and my friends dressed in all-pink to go watch it.
And I thought, this is an outfit for going out
for a brunch with the girls.
Or going to the next Barbie movie.
HEATHER LAUGHS
Sewing in my sleeve.
I've eased it, I've pinned it.
- Good morning. - Hello there.
Tell us about your outfit.
I'm making a beach two-piece.
- OK. - So a short sleeve shirt and shorts.
The shirt's panelled.
So it's got different batiks that match
the different batiks on the shorts.
Tim's pairing a relaxed fit shirt with a soft camp collar
and elasticated shorts with patch pockets,
both made from indigo dyed fabric sporting batik prints.
There's four. Not just one, two, three...
Four batiks. And they're all fabulous.
This patchworking was really fun, but it does take a long time.
Why have you picked blue, then?
It's inspired by a dress that my grandma would wear
- when we were on holiday. - Ah!
It's an ombre dress,
so it would be as if she's just, like, walked out
- of the water, kind of goddess-style. - Yeah.
- This is her. - Oh, right.
She's such a stylish lady.
If I can look like her when I'm older,
I'll be right chuffed.
Beth's cotton beach maxi dress will have an ombre effect,
using a patchwork of scraps going from dark to light blue.
A garment to celebrate her stylish grandma.
I'm hoping that I can do her justice,
cos she's a bit of an icon, really.
Right, pinning my skirt together,
ready to do the first sew.
An hour in, most of the sewers have pattern pieces cut out
and are assembling their garments.
I'm doing the waistcoat first
cos it's the most process heavy garment that I'm making.
Ah, right. How's that looking?
Yes.
Halfway there, and then I've got to do this all again
with the main skirt panels.
This is, like, my actual outside fabric now.
It feels like there's so much to do - because there is.
What's this, then? This is looking lovely.
Making something inspired by quite a specific dress in a museum.
- Oh! - It's this one here.
But I'm making it sleeveless.
Doing a similar sort of bodice construction,
- which is kind of like an asymmetric striped ruffle. - Yeah.
That sounds amazing.
Anna's 1880s cheongsam-inspired dress will have a fitted bodice
and an invisible zip.
Her modern take on Victoriana
will sport a colour-blocked ruffle
and bow along with elaborate tasselled braids.
Would you ever steer off the theme?
Would you ever think, "Sod it, I'm going for '90s"?
I mean, I could do. Maybe like...
- Or would it be 1890s with you? Wouldn't it? - Yeah.
That looks good.
Trying to under-stitch the lining around the neckline.
Cos I don't want you to be able to see the dark pink
from the bust at the front.
Pinning my collar onto the shirt.
It isn't quite as I would like it.
Sewing the side seams and the shoulder seams now.
So I've spied over at Adele,
and we're making a similar cross back top.
- Is the battle of the crisscross top on? - Oh, yeah.
North versus the south.
Game on! Ha!
I'm not going to get nasty about it.
I'm doing the centre back right now.
It's a big old long seam.
Quite nerve-racking.
I only have one shot on each seam.
There's no going back.
The box pleat is here.
It's that good you couldn't see it.
Ooh! That's a cheeky reveal!
- I love that! - We'll see how it looks down the catwalk.
I'm looking forward to it, to be fair.
I'm sewing the lining to the main fabric.
I'm just rushing it a little bit, but I think needs must.
I have set myself a slightly humungous challenge.
Godet's done!
It looks go-done!
I am absolutely sick of godets.
We're halfway through!
Are we actually?
Need to get a bit of a shifty on
cos this is only my first garment.
Now I get to start on my bodice.
I'm not following a specific set time,
I just want to focus on the sewing.
Tell us what you're making.
A wrap top and a fullish skirt with a yoke.
And what fabrics are you making these pieces from?
I've got a duvet cover and tablecloth,
and I've dyed them marine blue.
A smaller print on one side, a larger print on the other.
Angie's wrap top with cape
and matching fitted skirt
will have a large bow
and be peppered with elaborate patterns
in matching large and small prints.
I think it's a really nice way to play with that colour.
- Thank you. - Well done.
- Get on with it. - Thank you.
All right.
I'm really happy with that, so I'm going to do trousers now.
Starting on my skirt now.
She's tall. I'm going to cut it beyond the pattern -
and I'm just judging by eye for speed.
- So that's finished? - Yeah.
I'm just doing the invisible zip now.
- Checking it goes up the right way. - Hmm.
You've just started making a skirt?
No, I'm well on my way.
Well, I just saw you over there cutting bits out.
So the waistcoat is fully done now, is it?
No, it needs buttons and buttonholes.
- Simple skirt assembly, then back to the waistcoat to finish off? - Yes.
- Fine. - I think Patrick was concerned, cos he's only just seen me
starting to cut this out.
I've still to put in a concealed zip, though,
and do the waistband.
EMMA LAUGHS
Sewers, you've got one hour left!
Oh, for goodness' sake!
Who needs more than an hour?
I don't know where the time goes.
Trying to get this invisible zipper in.
Over half the sewers are making garments with a zip.
Just put my concealed zip on my skirt.
There you go.
The zip's gone in on the trousers.
I'm happy with it, and it's the right way round!
The shorts are going OK.
Devon's on his way down.
He can try them on so I get the right length.
Tim made the shirt, and he's now onto making his shorts.
Are they too tight? It's a little on the snug side.
I've stitched the cape on.
I've added the bias that basically closes the raw edges.
Angie seems to be getting on well.
It's quite a complicated design as well.
- She's got the wrap, bow. - Yes.
- That's true, yes. - There's quite a lot of work in it.
I'm sewing the side seams together.
Because it's super basic, they will want perfection.
Sam's doing a kaftan.
It's a slightly unusual combination of colours.
One is very bright, very saturated, and one is very toned down.
I'm sewing my sleeves on.
Having such a nightmare with this sleeve.
MINNIE SIGHS
Minnie looks very stressed.
I don't know why. It should in theory be very simple to do.
- Yes. - I think Sam and Minnie both need to execute
- extremely well, cos they're both pretty simple garments. - Yes.
Yeah, I agree.
MINNIE SIGHS
You've got half an hour!
Oh, gosh. OK.
Bloody hell. This is mad.
Looks more like a dress
than last time I draped this out, doesn't it?
I'm just going to draw the hem on.
Running my hem on now.
Hello, Rebecca. You've got a flustered energy.
I haven't done a final fitting yet
so I'm just hoping that I've managed to get the zip put in
with the right amount of ease.
So, I've just done my sleeve.
Oh, God. Let's have a look.
It's OK. It's OK.
Just got to get this bow on.
Got a tiny, tiny bit of stitching to do on my neckline.
That looks rubbish.
So these are the ties that are going to go at the back of the dress.
These ties will just kind of nip it in.
I've just got the buttonholes to do.
Ten minutes left!
Oh, shoot!
I'm just going to get my maths brains on.
So if I do one there...
They're all coming in.
- Into the manic bit now. - Ah!
I've got the waistband on the skirt to do,
and I think I might just have enough time to do it.
I've got a skirt for you to try on.
You might need heels.
I am just putting the zip in for the top.
This needs to be good.
I've put the back side of...
The wrong side of the tape on, I think.
Very, very close to the wire.
Shall we trim? I'm going to trim.
It's quite possibly the worst hand-sewing I've ever done.
Oh, did it look better without the trim?
Oh, too late now.
That's five minutes left!
Just a couple of tacking stitches.
I'm doing... Yeah, let's call it the final press.
That sounds really professional.
I've never ironed as fast as this, ever, for anything.
I decided, in fact, that it needed more trim.
One minute left!
SAM SIGHS
- Done. - We're done. Let me press.
If there's a mistake now, nowt I can do about it.
That's going to have to do, I think.
Get your models dressed!
Little bit misaligned at the top.
- Needles up, sewers. - Cute.
Your time is up.
- Oh, dear. - Is it my boobs?
- Yeah. - Do I need to hike it up?
Yeah, you might do.
That looks great, mate.
HEATHER SIGHS
We got there in the end.
# Get some colours on... #
11 one-colour outfits made-to-measure
in just five hours.
# Now, I don't care what you dress like
# Or what you wear
# But please make sure, baby
# You've got some colours in there
# Get some colours on... #
I really like the colours.
You've got a kind of quite classic navy,
you've got this lovely royal blue, and then the sky blue.
And I think the three work really, really well together.
And I love the idea of panelling
and then using the same idea to create the bow and the tie.
It looks just a little bit big over the hips.
The only thing I really don't like...
..is this. For me, that doesn't work.
But it's really nicely made.
I love the kind of nod
to the historical reference that you like.
- I think it looks terrific. - Thank you.
# Take me outside
# Sit in the green garden
# Oh-ah, oh-ah. #
I like the colours
and I like that you've made a waistcoat and a skirt.
There is one thing about the waistcoat.
- Yeah, I know. - You've misaligned the button and the buttonhole.
It is quite a lot out.
Obviously you've got this fold.
It also has meant that the two pockets are now misaligned.
Your points are misaligned.
There's a lot that's happened as a result of that.
And it's a bit long.
# Baby, you
# You are
# My universe
# And I... #
I love the dark bottley green.
But because of the holes in the broderie,
you get different shades.
It's a really, really nice way to make it look
like lots of different tones.
And then, on the back, we've got this
really lovely cross over here.
They're working very, very nicely.
A little bit untidy,
just the sewing around the neckline,
but overall I think it looks terrific.
# Setting fire to the life that I know
# Till our lives are burning gold. #
I wish you had somehow
got these colours up here as well,
so it looks like an outfit.
You haven't really controlled the edge of this front V.
And Esme said she'd like to have seen
some of this colour up here.
We have got some -
but where we shouldn't really be seeing it.
But I do like it.
I'm not sure I love the seam on the outside.
It looks a little untidy, I think.
The fit is obviously largely dictated
by the stretch in the material.
It's a bit tight here.
And that's why we've got the wrinkles.
It is riding up a touch.
It's a little bit long in the middle section.
That's why we've got this here as well.
But the shades of these two blues work really nicely together.
# Has to be a loose fit
# It's got to be a loose fit... #
I'm not sure about the combination of colours.
You've got a very saturated green in the centre
and you've got a very knocked back green for the rest of the body.
A contrast that was better matched I think would've looked...
- Yeah, yeah. - ..more refined.
I like this pleat at the back.
The quality of the seams is absolutely first-rate.
Quality of the sewing all the way round this opening
is absolutely perfect.
# Strut, pout, put it out
# That's what you want from women
# Watch me, baby, while I walk out the door. #
I really like this fabric.
I like the combination of plain blue,
the small print, and the same print in the larger scale.
I think it works really, really nicely.
This cape at the back has got movement.
And it echoes the movement in the skirt,
so the whole thing feels really balanced.
You've put pleats for the bust, but something has gone on here.
It's got a little tuck.
Let's look at the zip.
It's not great.
No.
# On the beach
# Yeah, yeah... #
# Down on the beach. #
Visually, this is a real treat.
That lovely kind of organic ombre.
You've got dark, dark bottom,
and then almost a kind of foamy spray at the top,
which works so nicely.
And I think it's brilliant that you've just put it
on one sleeve.
Really makes a statement.
It fits beautifully
and I love that you've patchworked the ends of the ties.
It's really, really lovely.
# If you ain't doing nothing let's fly away
# Drive away, get away
# We can go to the club or hide away
# We can do what you want to, baby. #
I think this fabric is absolutely great.
A lot of work to create this panelled shirt.
And we've got this camp collar that's slightly inaccurate.
The depth of your notch is slightly off.
The thing that stands out as a slight negative -
you've got one central panel down the shirt and into the shorts
that's all one fabric,
and it just makes the body look really long.
And traditionally in menswear,
you're trying to shorten the body and lengthen the legs.
It looks to me that you've put the back crotch in the front
and the front crotch in the back.
That's not impossible.
Overall, I really like it.
I'm just being nit-picky
because I think I can see where you could've just lifted it a touch.
# Pink, hot Pink, hot
# Pink, hot Pink... #
The colours work really beautifully together.
The style of it is great.
I love these godets.
They are do dramatic, they're so organic,
so nicely done.
The fit is a little bit big.
Top of the zip isn't even.
The effect is lovely,
the colour work is beautiful -
and that's what we asked for.
- It's brilliant. Well done. - Thank you very much.
# She said, green, green grass
# Blue, blue sky
# You better throw a party on the day that I die. #
This looks terrific. The two colours work so nicely together.
And where you've placed them is exciting.
The top is really nice and simple and clean
and the culottes have got this lovely shape,
these beautiful pleats.
I love this back.
These crossing bands are sitting really, really nicely.
There's no puckering, there's no gathering.
Lovely clean hems.
It's terrific.
The whole thing is just absolutely on point.
- Well done. - Thank you.
I can't believe what the judges said.
I was so happy I wanted to scream.
It is the redemption of the invisible zip.
I've absolutely had a stinker of a week.
But I've sewn it as best as I can.
And we'll just see what happens.
I'm not as happy with my performance.
I found it quite hard, actually.
I'm probably a bit worried about my place in the competition.
I want to stay.
Well, that's the end of print and colour week.
You've all done fantastic.
But there can only be one Garment of the Week.
- Patrick? - Well, it was a pretty close-run thing.
But our Garment of the Week is...
CHEERING
Both Esme and I felt that it was just perfection.
- Well done. - Oh, life highlight.
LAUGHTER
Well, another brilliant week -
but unfortunately, someone does have to go home.
And today that person is...
..Sam.
That's... That's fine.
It's OK. It's all right, everyone.
It's OK.
I knew that my skills were going to get tested.
I knew I was going to be completely out of my comfort zone.
But it's been such a journey.
It's been a pleasure, guys.
Coming into today, Sam was sitting bottom.
So he needed to produce something fantastic.
And despite sewing his kaftan incredibly well,
it was relatively simple.
It just wasn't enough to keep him in.
I can't wait to ring my mum.
Can't even put it in words.
I can't even speak.
It was a close-run thing for Garment of the Week.
There were three in it.
Well done, everybody else.
I mean, what a tough judging that was.
Anna's and Beth's were so close to being absolutely brilliant -
but Adele's was just the perfect rendition
and just a great way to play with one colour.
It had absolute impact
and she really thought where to place the fabric.
I thought it was amazing.
Week two's been quite up and down.
I think the made-to-measure definitely saved me.
When my name wasn't called, I actually couldn't believe it.
Because I was convinced it was going to be me.
It feels so good to get through to week three.
- Next time... - Ah-ha!
..it's reduce, re-use, recycle week.
A nice bit of potato sack! I'll take that.
Tired T-shirts become pretty pants.
Ah!
Piles of scrap become drama at the back.
She's got her bum out!
BETH LAUGHS
And we save the planet one stitch at a time.
These look a bit like poo bags.
ADELE LAUGHS
Who will go from waste to winner?
It is one of the best things we've ever seen in Sewing Bee.
- And who will be sent to landfill? - Oh, mate.
I don't think I'm a man who knows what he's doing here.