1 00:00:43,060 --> 00:00:48,060 OCR'd and corrected by explosiveskull 2 00:01:52,750 --> 00:01:54,708 I was an only child. 3 00:01:54,875 --> 00:01:56,708 Sort of solitary by nature. 4 00:01:57,916 --> 00:02:01,291 I learned to swim in the river and that's where I met Loonie, 5 00:02:01,458 --> 00:02:03,791 who began to help me understand fear. 6 00:02:31,000 --> 00:02:34,291 Do you reckon you can row this thing over the bar? 7 00:02:34,458 --> 00:02:36,375 The bar? I don't know. 8 00:02:36,541 --> 00:02:38,666 I guess, on the right day, you probably could. 9 00:02:38,833 --> 00:02:41,083 I don't know if you'd ever get her back again. 10 00:02:41,250 --> 00:02:43,416 Why would you want to do that? 11 00:02:43,583 --> 00:02:46,208 I don't know. It's the sea. 12 00:02:46,375 --> 00:02:49,666 Huh. Righto, drop it. 13 00:03:03,250 --> 00:03:05,666 There's more fish in here, anyway, mate. 14 00:03:12,750 --> 00:03:14,625 But I don't reckon you ought to do it. 15 00:03:14,791 --> 00:03:17,166 - So you reckon I won't? - That's not what I said. 16 00:03:17,333 --> 00:03:19,916 - I just... - Shh. Listen. 17 00:03:21,875 --> 00:03:23,500 Here he comes. 18 00:03:31,833 --> 00:03:34,250 I don't reckon we should do this. 19 00:03:34,416 --> 00:03:37,375 - "We"? And don't follow me. - I'm not going to. 20 00:03:37,541 --> 00:03:39,458 You'll just get skittled. 21 00:03:39,625 --> 00:03:41,166 Don't follow me. 22 00:04:12,458 --> 00:04:14,375 Mm. Mm. 23 00:04:17,625 --> 00:04:19,458 Lovely meal, Mrs Pike. 24 00:04:19,625 --> 00:04:21,791 I'm sure your mum can cook a corned beef, Ivan. 25 00:04:21,958 --> 00:04:24,166 Mm. Nah. 26 00:04:24,333 --> 00:04:27,041 - How'd you get that eye? - Cricket. 27 00:04:29,750 --> 00:04:31,291 Someone said there were two boys 28 00:04:31,458 --> 00:04:33,416 playing on the highway this morning. 29 00:04:33,583 --> 00:04:35,833 Said the driver nearly lost control of his truck, 30 00:04:36,000 --> 00:04:37,500 he had to brake that fast. 31 00:04:37,666 --> 00:04:39,916 Oh, no. Those idiots. 32 00:04:40,083 --> 00:04:42,375 - Mm. - I know those kids. 33 00:04:42,541 --> 00:04:44,625 - Oh, you do? - Yeah. 34 00:04:47,083 --> 00:04:48,583 Who are they? 35 00:04:48,750 --> 00:04:50,208 Oh, just some ning-nongs 36 00:04:50,375 --> 00:04:52,541 from way up, way up from... 37 00:04:53,333 --> 00:04:54,916 ...from... 38 00:04:56,625 --> 00:04:59,500 Angelus kids. Yeah, those Angelus kids. 39 00:04:59,666 --> 00:05:01,750 Yeah, they're real... real buggers. 40 00:05:07,375 --> 00:05:09,166 Ohh. 41 00:05:09,333 --> 00:05:12,083 Ooh. So delicious. 42 00:05:27,791 --> 00:05:29,625 I'm hoping you've said your prayers. 43 00:05:29,791 --> 00:05:32,833 'Cause if God doesn't look after you, no-one else will. 44 00:05:36,083 --> 00:05:37,791 Night, Ivan. 45 00:05:37,958 --> 00:05:39,875 - Excuse me, Mrs Pike. - Hm? 46 00:05:40,041 --> 00:05:42,791 Do you reckon I can get one of them? 47 00:05:45,291 --> 00:05:46,916 Thank you. 48 00:06:01,625 --> 00:06:03,583 I didn't know you played cricket. 49 00:06:03,750 --> 00:06:06,000 I don't. I hate cricket. 50 00:06:06,166 --> 00:06:08,750 Got caught stealing my old man's ciggies. 51 00:06:10,791 --> 00:06:12,625 Night, Pikey. 52 00:06:47,291 --> 00:06:47,333 Some old guy. They were fishing off the rocks. 53 00:06:47,333 --> 00:06:49,833 Some old guy. They were fishing off the rocks. 54 00:06:50,000 --> 00:06:51,666 - Did he drown? - Yeah. 55 00:06:51,833 --> 00:06:53,291 Fucking sank like a stone. 56 00:06:53,458 --> 00:06:55,541 And your dad had a front-row seat. 57 00:06:55,708 --> 00:06:58,041 So, there you are. 58 00:06:58,208 --> 00:07:00,500 That's why he doesn't want you coming out here. 59 00:07:01,916 --> 00:07:03,083 Hm. 60 00:07:03,250 --> 00:07:05,458 - How far is this? - I don't know. 61 00:07:08,166 --> 00:07:10,708 So, what would you do if she put her hand in your pocket? 62 00:07:10,875 --> 00:07:12,958 Why would she? 63 00:07:13,125 --> 00:07:15,625 I don't know. See what she could find? 64 00:07:17,875 --> 00:07:21,000 I know what she'd find if she put it in my pocket. 65 00:07:21,166 --> 00:07:24,833 A flawlessly well-sized Johnson. 66 00:07:25,000 --> 00:07:29,166 Smooth-touch wonder, that's what she'd find. 67 00:07:29,333 --> 00:07:31,500 Look out. Move aside. 68 00:07:31,666 --> 00:07:33,125 Keep pedalling, boys! 69 00:07:33,291 --> 00:07:34,916 Look at that. 70 00:07:35,083 --> 00:07:37,916 Come on, boys. Not much further to go. 71 00:07:41,791 --> 00:07:43,083 Got it. 72 00:07:47,500 --> 00:07:49,458 Hey, wait! 73 00:07:52,458 --> 00:07:54,208 You're gonna stack it! Let go. 74 00:07:57,333 --> 00:07:59,958 No, seriously, let go. 75 00:08:04,625 --> 00:08:08,166 Oh, ho-ho-ho! Oh, shit. 76 00:08:24,958 --> 00:08:26,541 It's pretty small. 77 00:08:26,708 --> 00:08:28,583 Oh, but nice and clean. 78 00:08:28,750 --> 00:08:31,791 I'm gonna go for a walk. 79 00:08:31,958 --> 00:08:34,500 Do you reckon it'll pick up with the tide? 80 00:08:52,083 --> 00:08:54,000 Never had I seen men do 81 00:08:54,166 --> 00:08:55,708 something so beautiful... 82 00:08:56,791 --> 00:08:58,541 ...so pointless and elegant. 83 00:09:04,083 --> 00:09:06,541 As if dancing on water 84 00:09:06,708 --> 00:09:09,291 was the best and bravest thing a man could do. 85 00:09:32,125 --> 00:09:33,625 Thanks, guys. 86 00:09:33,791 --> 00:09:35,375 - See you, boys. - See you. 87 00:09:41,375 --> 00:09:43,333 - See you. - See you. 88 00:09:43,500 --> 00:09:45,041 See you! 89 00:09:45,833 --> 00:09:47,250 Hi, Mr Pike! 90 00:09:47,416 --> 00:09:49,041 Afternoon, Ivan. 91 00:09:49,208 --> 00:09:51,875 It's a good one, isn't it? Bloody ripper, Mr Pike. 92 00:09:52,041 --> 00:09:53,875 Where have you been, mate? 93 00:09:54,041 --> 00:09:56,041 Oh, just for a ride. They gave us a lift back. 94 00:09:56,208 --> 00:09:58,041 - Bloody ripper! - Your mum's been worried sick. 95 00:09:58,208 --> 00:10:00,208 Alright? So, go inside and say you're sorry. 96 00:10:00,375 --> 00:10:03,500 And come back out here and take the chickens in, please. 97 00:10:15,541 --> 00:10:18,291 The first boards we got were Coolites... 98 00:10:18,458 --> 00:10:20,166 short, boxy, Styrofoam things 99 00:10:20,333 --> 00:10:22,125 that squeaked when you touched them. 100 00:10:22,291 --> 00:10:23,708 They weren't much chop 101 00:10:23,875 --> 00:10:26,041 but we thought they were the duck's nuts. 102 00:11:14,125 --> 00:11:15,750 Yeah, there she goes. 103 00:11:20,625 --> 00:11:22,916 What we need, mate, is real boards. 104 00:11:23,083 --> 00:11:24,875 Genuine fibreglass, hard ones. 105 00:11:25,041 --> 00:11:26,625 With big stiff fins. 106 00:11:28,458 --> 00:11:30,541 What do you say, Pikelet? 107 00:11:31,875 --> 00:11:33,833 Yeah. Yeah, okay. 108 00:11:34,000 --> 00:11:35,791 Ripper. 109 00:11:35,958 --> 00:11:38,791 Look at yous two stupid pricks. 110 00:11:38,958 --> 00:11:40,791 It's raining. 111 00:11:40,958 --> 00:11:43,125 And the water's as cold as a witch's bits 112 00:11:43,291 --> 00:11:44,708 and you're bloody swimming? 113 00:11:44,875 --> 00:11:47,166 We like "bloody swimming", Dad! 114 00:11:51,875 --> 00:11:53,916 Five bucks a load to chop it up. 115 00:11:56,000 --> 00:11:57,958 Are you interested? 116 00:11:58,125 --> 00:12:00,166 And there's four more loads. 117 00:12:03,291 --> 00:12:05,583 If you don't do it, I'll get someone else. 118 00:12:07,750 --> 00:12:09,708 Hm? 119 00:12:09,875 --> 00:12:12,166 - 20 bucks a truckload. - Uh-uh. 120 00:12:13,250 --> 00:12:14,708 - 15? - Oh... 121 00:12:16,250 --> 00:12:18,166 Ten. Fuck it. Ten. 122 00:12:20,750 --> 00:12:21,875 Yeah? 123 00:12:22,041 --> 00:12:24,833 - Each. - Yous can get to buggery. 124 00:12:31,458 --> 00:12:33,250 Ah. Come on. 125 00:12:37,708 --> 00:12:39,208 And I want to kill it. 126 00:12:43,000 --> 00:12:45,458 Oh. What are you doing? 127 00:13:02,875 --> 00:13:04,875 I don't want you telling the other guys 128 00:13:05,041 --> 00:13:07,875 - where you got these from. - Why not? 129 00:13:09,583 --> 00:13:11,958 'Cause they're shit boards. That's why. 130 00:13:19,750 --> 00:13:21,583 - Oh. Thanks, Slipper. - Thanks, mate. 131 00:13:26,166 --> 00:13:27,708 Mine's better. 132 00:13:27,875 --> 00:13:29,791 Mine's got wings. It's cooler. 133 00:14:41,333 --> 00:14:44,041 My first wave that morning. 134 00:14:45,291 --> 00:14:48,125 I leant across the wall of upstanding water, 135 00:14:48,291 --> 00:14:50,416 and the board came with me... 136 00:14:50,583 --> 00:14:53,458 as though it was part of my body and mind. 137 00:15:15,791 --> 00:15:17,416 I still judge every joyous moment 138 00:15:17,583 --> 00:15:19,750 and every victory and revelation 139 00:15:19,916 --> 00:15:23,000 against those first few seconds of riding that wave. 140 00:15:30,208 --> 00:15:32,583 Wouldn't be dead for quids, would you? 141 00:15:34,750 --> 00:15:36,458 Right. Up in the back! Go on! 142 00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:48,791 You boys need a ride? 143 00:15:48,958 --> 00:15:50,958 Our bikes are just at the top of the hill. 144 00:15:51,125 --> 00:15:52,833 Yeah. Get in. 145 00:16:07,541 --> 00:16:09,000 Just here. 146 00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:20,708 Pair of hellmen, you two. 147 00:16:20,875 --> 00:16:22,250 What is that? 148 00:16:22,416 --> 00:16:25,166 Surfing bareback all weather. How old are you? 149 00:16:25,333 --> 00:16:26,791 - 14. - Almost 14. 150 00:16:26,958 --> 00:16:28,708 Bullshit. He's full of shit. 151 00:16:28,875 --> 00:16:31,875 Oh, 13 and a half, then.Jesus. 152 00:16:32,041 --> 00:16:33,958 If you get tired of lugging your boards, 153 00:16:34,125 --> 00:16:35,708 you can leave them at our place. 154 00:16:35,875 --> 00:16:37,208 Jeez, thanks. 155 00:16:37,375 --> 00:16:40,416 First driveway on the left, half a mile onto the bitumen. 156 00:16:40,583 --> 00:16:42,375 - Okay. Thanks for the ride. - See you. 157 00:16:42,541 --> 00:16:44,208 OK, cool. Cheers, mate. 158 00:16:48,583 --> 00:16:51,083 Come on! 159 00:17:04,708 --> 00:17:06,583 What do you reckon? 160 00:17:06,750 --> 00:17:08,125 Mm. 161 00:17:08,291 --> 00:17:10,875 Hippies. That's what I reckon. 162 00:17:14,541 --> 00:17:16,541 Nah, fuck it. 163 00:17:17,791 --> 00:17:19,750 My arm's rooted. 164 00:17:38,375 --> 00:17:40,583 Hippies, alright. 165 00:17:41,458 --> 00:17:43,083 Hello? 166 00:17:44,125 --> 00:17:46,125 Anyone home? 167 00:18:36,625 --> 00:18:38,208 Oi. Come check this out. 168 00:18:38,375 --> 00:18:40,833 It's a total hippy love nest. 169 00:18:41,000 --> 00:18:43,125 You shouldn't be up there, Loonie. 170 00:18:43,291 --> 00:18:45,458 Loonie, we should probably just get going. 171 00:18:45,625 --> 00:18:47,625 Yeah, yeah, I'm coming. 172 00:18:50,666 --> 00:18:53,333 Don't get all fucking sulky on me. 173 00:18:57,583 --> 00:18:59,875 "Probably should get going, Loonie." 174 00:19:17,250 --> 00:19:18,916 Morning. 175 00:19:41,333 --> 00:19:42,541 Mm. 176 00:19:43,208 --> 00:19:45,041 Ohh... 177 00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:49,791 A Brewer. 178 00:19:51,333 --> 00:19:53,000 It's bloody paradise. 179 00:19:54,583 --> 00:19:56,583 You boys take a wrong turn? 180 00:19:57,708 --> 00:19:59,333 Just came to get our boards. 181 00:19:59,500 --> 00:20:01,166 They're just in there. 182 00:20:01,333 --> 00:20:05,083 - Are they, now? - Bloke said we could. 183 00:20:07,000 --> 00:20:09,000 Better show me. 184 00:20:14,291 --> 00:20:16,041 This one's mine. 185 00:20:18,500 --> 00:20:20,958 That's his. 186 00:20:21,125 --> 00:20:22,875 Uh-huh. 187 00:20:25,916 --> 00:20:27,875 He's not here. 188 00:20:28,041 --> 00:20:29,708 - Who? - Sando. 189 00:20:29,875 --> 00:20:32,208 - Who? - The bloke. 190 00:20:32,375 --> 00:20:34,208 Oh, right, Sando. 191 00:20:34,375 --> 00:20:36,250 Ah. Where is he, then? 192 00:20:36,416 --> 00:20:38,041 Could be in Indonesia, for all I know. 193 00:20:38,208 --> 00:20:40,416 - Really? - No. 194 00:20:40,583 --> 00:20:43,083 It's not outside the realm of possibility. 195 00:20:46,208 --> 00:20:48,708 So, what's your name, anyway? 196 00:20:50,166 --> 00:20:51,916 Eva. 197 00:20:52,083 --> 00:20:54,666 And where are you from, Eva? 198 00:20:56,208 --> 00:20:58,125 - From the US. - Yeah. 199 00:20:58,291 --> 00:21:01,333 I can hear the accent, but which part? 200 00:21:02,250 --> 00:21:04,666 - Utah. - U-tar! 201 00:21:09,833 --> 00:21:11,583 Alright if we drop 'em back later? 202 00:21:11,750 --> 00:21:14,833 'Cause we didn't ask... your bloke offered. 203 00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:20,583 Uh... see you later, Eva. 204 00:21:23,083 --> 00:21:25,708 - I could tell she liked me. - What? 205 00:21:25,875 --> 00:21:28,333 What? She was looking at me with that special look. 206 00:21:28,500 --> 00:21:30,416 She wasn't looking at anything. 207 00:21:30,583 --> 00:21:32,416 That's what I mean. She cool-looked me. 208 00:21:32,583 --> 00:21:34,916 - She was keen. - I don't know. 209 00:21:35,083 --> 00:21:37,041 Ah, you don't know these things, Pikelet. 210 00:21:37,208 --> 00:21:38,875 You will, one of these days. 211 00:21:39,041 --> 00:21:40,791 She's probably his wife. 212 00:21:40,958 --> 00:21:44,250 Yeah, so? Aren't you into those wives? Eh? 213 00:21:50,291 --> 00:21:52,833 The sea was different that day, 214 00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:54,666 but we went out anyway... 215 00:21:54,833 --> 00:21:56,916 because we didn't know any better. 216 00:22:11,416 --> 00:22:13,875 How about it, Snowy? 217 00:22:14,041 --> 00:22:16,208 - Are you going? - Piss off! 218 00:22:16,375 --> 00:22:18,000 Here we go. 219 00:22:18,166 --> 00:22:19,833 Into it. 220 00:22:53,500 --> 00:22:56,875 Take the next one in, kid. 221 00:22:58,958 --> 00:23:00,916 Waiting for a little one, eh? 222 00:23:17,166 --> 00:23:18,458 Oh, shit. 223 00:23:18,625 --> 00:23:20,333 Listen, numb nut, 224 00:23:20,500 --> 00:23:24,083 if you don't get the next one, I'm taking the one after that. 225 00:23:24,250 --> 00:23:27,333 You'll be out here on your own all bloody night. 226 00:23:28,291 --> 00:23:31,791 Into it, son! Into it! 227 00:24:00,166 --> 00:24:01,875 What about mine? 228 00:24:02,041 --> 00:24:04,083 Did you see that? 229 00:24:04,250 --> 00:24:06,500 Oh, you got so skittled. 230 00:24:06,666 --> 00:24:08,250 - That was huge. - Yeah. 231 00:24:08,416 --> 00:24:10,375 My one went all the way in. 232 00:24:24,250 --> 00:24:26,916 - He's out there, isn't he? - Course he is. 233 00:24:27,083 --> 00:24:29,083 Fuck him. Jesus. 234 00:24:39,583 --> 00:24:42,500 - Whoo-hoo. - Okay, come on, let's go. 235 00:24:42,666 --> 00:24:45,875 Only a bloody idiot would be out there on a day like today. 236 00:24:49,041 --> 00:24:52,458 I'll surf that one day. You dare me? 237 00:24:55,083 --> 00:24:56,958 I dare you to dare me. 238 00:25:01,208 --> 00:25:03,208 What is that? 239 00:25:04,125 --> 00:25:05,875 These guys built a raft 240 00:25:06,041 --> 00:25:08,625 and sailed all the way across the Pacific on the current. 241 00:25:08,791 --> 00:25:10,625 Wow. 242 00:25:10,791 --> 00:25:13,000 - It's incredible. - Mm. 243 00:25:29,333 --> 00:25:32,333 Uh... Are we um...? 244 00:25:32,500 --> 00:25:34,666 - You and... You and me? - Yeah. 245 00:25:44,125 --> 00:25:47,791 Ah! Here they are. Heckle and Jeckle. 246 00:25:47,958 --> 00:25:50,041 - Looking for trouble. - Look at this. 247 00:25:50,208 --> 00:25:52,708 Oh, mate. 248 00:25:52,875 --> 00:25:54,958 Heard you boys got a bit of swell the other day. 249 00:25:55,125 --> 00:25:58,708 Yeah. We um... It was about seven or eight foot. 250 00:25:58,875 --> 00:26:01,416 Yeah. There was a couple of nine-footers as well. 251 00:26:01,583 --> 00:26:04,791 - Yeah, it was massive. - Seven or eight foot, huh? 252 00:26:04,958 --> 00:26:06,500 - Mm. - Yeah. 253 00:26:07,500 --> 00:26:09,958 Well... 254 00:26:10,125 --> 00:26:12,208 ...I'm gonna take this for a spin. 255 00:26:12,375 --> 00:26:14,916 You got yourselves a lift if you're looking to get wet. 256 00:26:15,083 --> 00:26:18,416 - Really? - Yes. Get wet. For sure. 257 00:26:20,416 --> 00:26:22,375 Put your boards in the back. 258 00:26:33,000 --> 00:26:34,708 Rooster! In the back! 259 00:26:37,333 --> 00:26:38,875 Good boy. 260 00:26:40,750 --> 00:26:42,416 See you later. 261 00:26:57,750 --> 00:26:59,500 I caught one at least that. 262 00:26:59,666 --> 00:27:01,250 He was shitting himself. 263 00:27:01,416 --> 00:27:03,250 He'd never been out in anything that big. 264 00:27:03,416 --> 00:27:05,125 Oh! Neither have you. 265 00:27:05,291 --> 00:27:06,875 I rode one the whole way in 266 00:27:07,041 --> 00:27:08,750 and then kicked down on the sand. 267 00:27:08,916 --> 00:27:10,958 Well, that's impressive. How about you, Pikelet? 268 00:27:11,125 --> 00:27:12,875 - Did you get any? - Yeah, I got one. 269 00:27:13,041 --> 00:27:15,541 - Got skittled on the inside. - Then later, 270 00:27:15,708 --> 00:27:18,291 the Angelus crew came and took us to the top of that ridge, 271 00:27:18,458 --> 00:27:21,583 - to that bommie. - Oh, yeah? Old Smoky. 272 00:27:21,750 --> 00:27:23,625 Yeah, that was going off. 273 00:27:23,791 --> 00:27:27,166 Yeah, there was someone out there trying to surf it. 274 00:27:27,333 --> 00:27:29,958 Yeah, who is that guy? 275 00:27:30,125 --> 00:27:32,333 - Does someone surf that? - Oh, on occasion. 276 00:27:32,500 --> 00:27:34,458 How would they get out there? 277 00:27:34,625 --> 00:27:37,041 Oh, that would be telling, wouldn't it? 278 00:27:37,208 --> 00:27:39,958 Yeah, right, Old Smoky, it was going off. 279 00:27:41,541 --> 00:27:45,208 It must have been twenty-something foot easy. 280 00:27:45,375 --> 00:27:47,958 That's a big, wild coast out that way. 281 00:27:48,125 --> 00:27:49,750 Full of surprises. 282 00:27:58,500 --> 00:28:00,000 - Hi, Dad. - Hey, mate. 283 00:28:00,166 --> 00:28:02,166 How are you? 284 00:28:10,166 --> 00:28:12,166 Mm. Delicious chops, Mum. 285 00:28:13,791 --> 00:28:15,791 You love your chops. 286 00:28:20,375 --> 00:28:22,708 Love, try and keep your nose out of the sun. 287 00:28:22,875 --> 00:28:24,625 You know that hat that Dad got you? 288 00:28:24,791 --> 00:28:27,500 - The fishing one? - Yeah. 289 00:28:27,666 --> 00:28:29,708 - I reckon it's somewhere. - Mm-hm. 290 00:28:41,708 --> 00:28:43,500 Tops day, Mum. 291 00:28:54,750 --> 00:28:58,375 Once we were accepted, allowed in, 292 00:28:58,541 --> 00:29:01,416 if we weren't with Sando, we were just marking time. 293 00:29:01,583 --> 00:29:04,541 All up through here, waves all through that region. 294 00:29:05,625 --> 00:29:07,125 Have you been up there before? 295 00:29:07,291 --> 00:29:10,166 Yeah, in this region, several times down here, 296 00:29:10,333 --> 00:29:11,833 but never that far north or west. 297 00:29:12,000 --> 00:29:14,041 So, how do you get there? 298 00:29:19,833 --> 00:29:21,708 We didn't know it yet, but we'd already 299 00:29:21,875 --> 00:29:24,583 imagined ourselves into a different life. 300 00:29:43,333 --> 00:29:45,416 - See you, mate. - See you. 301 00:30:12,833 --> 00:30:14,541 Oi! 302 00:30:14,708 --> 00:30:16,333 Look at this. 303 00:30:18,291 --> 00:30:21,833 "Sanderson: Styling at perfect Rincon." 304 00:30:27,666 --> 00:30:29,875 He's on the front cover of this one too. 305 00:30:30,041 --> 00:30:32,500 Look at him. Shit. 306 00:30:36,583 --> 00:30:38,833 This is Morocco in 1968. 307 00:30:39,000 --> 00:30:41,125 This is Hawaii in '71. 308 00:30:43,500 --> 00:30:45,750 - What? - Yeah, what else is there? 309 00:30:49,583 --> 00:30:53,291 He's been all over the place. Hollister Ranch. Where's that? 310 00:30:53,458 --> 00:30:56,083 - Look at him. - Oh... 311 00:30:56,250 --> 00:30:59,000 Let's put 'em in order. 312 00:30:59,166 --> 00:31:00,791 '73. 313 00:31:00,958 --> 00:31:02,750 '71. 314 00:31:22,541 --> 00:31:25,041 Oi! Nice haircut, man. 315 00:31:25,208 --> 00:31:28,166 What are you doing? 316 00:31:29,875 --> 00:31:31,916 Where the fuck did you find those? 317 00:31:32,083 --> 00:31:34,208 Just um... They were just there in the boxes. 318 00:31:36,916 --> 00:31:39,500 Alright, that's cool. 319 00:31:39,666 --> 00:31:41,375 Stack 'em up and put 'em away. 320 00:31:41,541 --> 00:31:43,458 I want you to stay here and wait for me, okay? 321 00:31:43,625 --> 00:31:46,291 Stay here and wait. 322 00:31:46,458 --> 00:31:48,250 - Eva! - Quick, quick. 323 00:31:48,416 --> 00:31:50,500 Do you know how those boxes got there? 324 00:31:52,416 --> 00:31:54,125 Hey! 325 00:31:54,291 --> 00:31:55,791 I'm talking to you. 326 00:31:55,958 --> 00:31:57,791 - What? - What the fuck are you doing? 327 00:32:02,208 --> 00:32:05,750 Why do you keep them if you hate them so much? 328 00:32:05,916 --> 00:32:09,000 I said, why do you keep them if you hate them so much? 329 00:32:12,541 --> 00:32:14,500 - Liar! - Don't take it out on me! 330 00:32:18,208 --> 00:32:20,041 Kids, Billy. 331 00:32:20,208 --> 00:32:22,041 Hanging out with kids. 332 00:32:37,125 --> 00:32:39,291 They're gonna kiss and make up. Let's go. 333 00:32:39,458 --> 00:32:41,125 He said wait. 334 00:33:06,500 --> 00:33:08,166 Can I play? 335 00:33:08,333 --> 00:33:09,958 Piss off. 336 00:33:48,041 --> 00:33:49,916 Didn't mean to piss anyone off. 337 00:33:50,083 --> 00:33:51,916 Ah, it's just a bunch of old crap. 338 00:33:52,083 --> 00:33:54,291 Don't worry about it. 339 00:33:54,458 --> 00:33:57,083 Get your bikes in the back. I'll give yous a ride home. 340 00:34:25,250 --> 00:34:27,333 Oh, listen, there's a little spurt 341 00:34:27,500 --> 00:34:29,333 of swell coming day after tomorrow. 342 00:34:29,500 --> 00:34:31,833 It should be offshore, so get up early. 343 00:34:32,000 --> 00:34:34,041 - Early? - Sparrow's fart. 344 00:34:34,208 --> 00:34:36,541 I'll pick yous both up. We'll go somewhere discreet. 345 00:34:36,708 --> 00:34:38,291 Secret. 346 00:34:38,458 --> 00:34:40,208 Yeah. I think you're ready. 347 00:34:49,583 --> 00:34:52,458 Thinking of taking the dory out fishing on Saturday, 348 00:34:52,625 --> 00:34:54,583 if you want to come, mate. 349 00:34:54,750 --> 00:34:58,250 Um... I'm probably gonna go out to the beach with Loonie. 350 00:34:59,750 --> 00:35:01,333 Oh. 351 00:35:01,500 --> 00:35:03,083 Alright. 352 00:35:19,125 --> 00:35:21,166 Can I please leave the table? 353 00:35:44,625 --> 00:35:46,291 Oh! 354 00:35:46,458 --> 00:35:48,583 Where we going? 355 00:35:48,750 --> 00:35:51,166 Let's just say we have an appointment 356 00:35:51,333 --> 00:35:52,958 with the undisclosed. 357 00:36:25,541 --> 00:36:27,541 They're yours. 358 00:36:29,416 --> 00:36:32,583 Oh, fuck! That's yours. 359 00:36:34,708 --> 00:36:36,916 - Look at that. - Smell it. Go on, smell it. 360 00:36:38,500 --> 00:36:40,291 Oh, my God. 361 00:36:43,541 --> 00:36:45,166 Oi! Guide me in! 362 00:36:48,291 --> 00:36:50,333 - Yeah, keep coming. - You're there. 363 00:36:51,625 --> 00:36:53,625 Oi, get my back. 364 00:36:55,291 --> 00:36:57,583 Do this. Quick. 365 00:37:38,916 --> 00:37:40,833 Where the fuck are we? 366 00:37:41,833 --> 00:37:43,916 This is Barney's. 367 00:37:47,750 --> 00:37:49,416 Drag her in. 368 00:37:57,958 --> 00:37:59,458 How come the name? 369 00:37:59,625 --> 00:38:01,625 Well, because Barney lives here. 370 00:38:01,791 --> 00:38:03,458 Only fair to tell you. 371 00:38:11,166 --> 00:38:12,583 Wow! 372 00:38:19,583 --> 00:38:21,500 Whoo-hoo. 373 00:38:22,708 --> 00:38:24,458 Oh... 374 00:38:25,583 --> 00:38:28,250 - Oh... - Oh. 375 00:38:28,416 --> 00:38:30,166 - Do it. - Let's go. 376 00:38:35,083 --> 00:38:36,625 And what about this guy Barney? 377 00:38:36,791 --> 00:38:38,333 Oh, Barney. 378 00:38:38,500 --> 00:38:41,541 Well, he's not hungry all the time, which improves the odds. 379 00:38:41,708 --> 00:38:43,916 Fuck. Tell me it's not a shark. 380 00:38:44,083 --> 00:38:47,500 Okay. It's not a shark. 381 00:38:47,666 --> 00:38:50,291 Well, it's not your average shark, let's put it that way. 382 00:38:50,458 --> 00:38:51,708 - What? - What? 383 00:38:51,875 --> 00:38:54,500 I've been coming for years. Still got my fingers and toes. 384 00:38:54,666 --> 00:38:55,916 You've seen him? 385 00:38:56,083 --> 00:38:59,208 Yeah, five, maybe... six times. 386 00:38:59,375 --> 00:39:01,333 What kind of shark is this? 387 00:39:01,500 --> 00:39:03,416 Like I said, not your average Noah. 388 00:39:03,583 --> 00:39:06,583 Stop pissing about and fucking say it. 389 00:39:06,750 --> 00:39:09,666 It's a white pointer, mate. The great white hunter. 390 00:39:09,833 --> 00:39:12,208 Fucking fuck fuck. 391 00:39:12,375 --> 00:39:14,208 - How big is this thing? - Oh, 14 foot. 392 00:39:14,375 --> 00:39:16,083 I don't know. It's hard to say, Pikelet. 393 00:39:16,250 --> 00:39:17,875 It's got a big old head, though, 394 00:39:18,041 --> 00:39:20,041 and a grin like Richard fucking Nixon. 395 00:39:20,208 --> 00:39:22,708 Why the fuck did you bring us here? 396 00:39:22,875 --> 00:39:24,916 I thought you had the nads for it. 397 00:39:26,458 --> 00:39:28,666 You're not scared, are you, Loonie? 398 00:39:41,250 --> 00:39:44,791 He's bullshitting. He's shitting us. 399 00:39:44,958 --> 00:39:46,458 Maybe. 400 00:39:46,625 --> 00:39:48,541 He's calling us fucking sooks. 401 00:39:58,208 --> 00:40:00,041 He thinks we're just gonna sit here 402 00:40:00,208 --> 00:40:02,041 like a couple of fucking girls. 403 00:40:02,208 --> 00:40:04,000 Mm. 404 00:40:04,166 --> 00:40:06,208 Fuck. 405 00:40:06,375 --> 00:40:08,416 It's some fucking good idea. 406 00:40:09,583 --> 00:40:11,750 Fucking... Fuck. Fuck. 407 00:40:16,791 --> 00:40:19,291 Ah, bugger the bloody biggest shark! 408 00:40:29,791 --> 00:40:31,416 Come on! 409 00:40:35,708 --> 00:40:37,958 Come on! 410 00:40:50,625 --> 00:40:53,583 Oh, credit where credit's due. 411 00:40:53,750 --> 00:40:56,208 You got the wave of the day, mate. That was a smoker. 412 00:40:56,375 --> 00:40:58,708 Oh! I wish we had a camera. 413 00:40:58,875 --> 00:41:01,208 It was too good. We should have got a photo. 414 00:41:01,375 --> 00:41:04,625 - Ah, you don't need no photo. - Just to show and prove it. 415 00:41:04,791 --> 00:41:07,583 You don't need to prove anything. You were there. 416 00:41:07,750 --> 00:41:11,000 - At least you blokes saw it. - My oath. 417 00:41:11,166 --> 00:41:13,041 It's not about us, it's about you. 418 00:41:13,208 --> 00:41:15,250 Your moment with the sea. 419 00:41:15,416 --> 00:41:17,333 - That's hippy shit, man. - What's that? 420 00:41:17,500 --> 00:41:19,083 It's fucking hippy shit. 421 00:41:19,250 --> 00:41:21,958 - Oh, is that so? - Yeah. 422 00:41:22,125 --> 00:41:24,500 Alright for you. You've got plenty of shots 423 00:41:24,666 --> 00:41:26,208 to prove what you done. 424 00:41:26,375 --> 00:41:28,666 Honolua Bay, man. Morocco. 425 00:41:28,833 --> 00:41:30,750 It's all horseshit. It's wallpaper. 426 00:41:30,916 --> 00:41:32,416 It's easy for you to say. 427 00:41:32,583 --> 00:41:34,416 Son, eventually it's just you and it. 428 00:41:34,583 --> 00:41:36,833 You'll be out there, thinking, "Do I know what I'm doing? 429 00:41:37,000 --> 00:41:38,916 Am I solid? 430 00:41:39,083 --> 00:41:41,750 Or am I just ordinary?" 431 00:41:41,916 --> 00:41:44,083 - How does it feel? - How does what feel, mate? 432 00:41:44,250 --> 00:41:45,625 When it's that serious. 433 00:41:45,791 --> 00:41:47,291 Ah. 434 00:41:48,541 --> 00:41:50,750 You boys will find out. 435 00:41:50,916 --> 00:41:54,250 Like, I mean... 20 feet. 436 00:41:54,416 --> 00:41:56,041 I'll tell you something, mate. 437 00:41:56,208 --> 00:41:58,458 You're glad there's no bloody photo. 438 00:41:58,625 --> 00:42:00,125 But when you're still alive 439 00:42:00,291 --> 00:42:02,250 and you're standing there at the end, 440 00:42:02,416 --> 00:42:04,500 and you've just made it... 441 00:42:05,666 --> 00:42:07,958 ...it's not... You can't... 442 00:42:08,125 --> 00:42:11,166 You're completely alive, completely in your body. 443 00:42:11,333 --> 00:42:13,416 You just get this rush. It's... 444 00:42:15,250 --> 00:42:17,875 Ah, it's just like you've felt the hand of God. 445 00:42:18,041 --> 00:42:20,416 The rest of it is just sport and recreation. 446 00:42:54,666 --> 00:42:56,666 Can I have the flippers, please? 447 00:43:32,041 --> 00:43:34,583 The waves that we're after come ahead of the storm. 448 00:43:34,750 --> 00:43:36,833 Clean and powerful. 449 00:43:40,000 --> 00:43:41,625 Here's Old Smoky. 450 00:43:41,791 --> 00:43:44,208 It's about half a mile off the coast. 451 00:43:44,375 --> 00:43:46,208 And this is the continental shelf, right? 452 00:43:46,375 --> 00:43:48,125 So, when the wave hits here, 453 00:43:48,291 --> 00:43:49,958 the water rises up on the shoal 454 00:43:50,125 --> 00:43:51,916 and turns itself inside-out. 455 00:43:52,083 --> 00:43:54,083 It's not so much about the height and size, 456 00:43:54,250 --> 00:43:55,833 it's about the volume, 457 00:43:56,000 --> 00:43:57,500 the girth. 458 00:43:57,666 --> 00:43:59,291 That's where the power is. 459 00:43:59,458 --> 00:44:01,416 We'll paddle out here, we wait in the channel. 460 00:44:01,583 --> 00:44:03,333 We check our position here, 461 00:44:03,500 --> 00:44:06,083 the limestone streak, the line of trees, 462 00:44:06,250 --> 00:44:08,375 find the perfect take-off spot. 463 00:44:10,333 --> 00:44:12,833 I mean, it's simple, really. 464 00:44:13,000 --> 00:44:15,583 You choose the right wave, you're half way home. 465 00:44:15,750 --> 00:44:17,541 But if you judge wrong 466 00:44:17,708 --> 00:44:19,583 and you take off too far across the reef, 467 00:44:19,750 --> 00:44:22,666 then you're in more trouble than the early settlers. 468 00:44:27,000 --> 00:44:29,458 It's not about what's up here. 469 00:44:29,625 --> 00:44:33,000 Nothing to do with the thoughts in your head. 470 00:44:33,166 --> 00:44:35,250 It's about the work you've done. 471 00:44:35,416 --> 00:44:37,250 That and surrender. 472 00:44:38,875 --> 00:44:40,416 Surrender is what frees you up 473 00:44:40,583 --> 00:44:42,875 to be completely in the moment. 474 00:44:43,041 --> 00:44:45,041 To commit with your body and your soul. 475 00:44:46,208 --> 00:44:48,875 With complete certainty. 476 00:44:49,041 --> 00:44:51,208 Not a shred of doubt. 477 00:44:51,375 --> 00:44:53,541 Not a shred. 478 00:45:08,625 --> 00:45:10,291 Hey, Rooster. 479 00:45:11,583 --> 00:45:14,500 Hi. Where are they? 480 00:45:14,666 --> 00:45:17,208 What are you doing? What are you doing? 481 00:45:18,166 --> 00:45:19,958 Where is everyone? 482 00:45:47,791 --> 00:45:49,708 What do you want? 483 00:45:49,875 --> 00:45:52,125 Sorry, I thought... 484 00:45:52,291 --> 00:45:54,333 I thought I heard a noise and just... 485 00:45:54,500 --> 00:45:56,375 came up to have a look. 486 00:45:56,541 --> 00:45:59,666 You missed him. He's gone off somewhere for a paddle. 487 00:46:00,833 --> 00:46:03,041 Breeze is all onshore, anyway. 488 00:46:03,208 --> 00:46:04,666 Yeah. 489 00:46:06,125 --> 00:46:08,416 What happened... to your knee? 490 00:46:12,208 --> 00:46:14,166 Skiing accident. 491 00:46:15,583 --> 00:46:17,791 Do you ever ski? 492 00:46:17,958 --> 00:46:19,875 No. I've never seen snow. 493 00:46:21,208 --> 00:46:23,166 Yeah, well... 494 00:46:23,333 --> 00:46:25,208 white and cold. 495 00:46:28,750 --> 00:46:30,416 How long till it's better? 496 00:46:30,583 --> 00:46:32,250 How long is a piece of string? 497 00:46:33,250 --> 00:46:34,958 What piece of string? 498 00:46:37,291 --> 00:46:38,791 It doesn't matter. 499 00:46:40,958 --> 00:46:42,666 Yeah. 500 00:46:42,833 --> 00:46:44,666 I'm sorry. 501 00:46:45,791 --> 00:46:47,666 See you. 502 00:46:57,250 --> 00:47:00,708 Old Smoky's right about here. Let it go. 503 00:47:03,875 --> 00:47:05,708 It's deep. 504 00:47:05,875 --> 00:47:08,666 Well, it won't seem so deep on the top of a ten-footer. 505 00:47:14,125 --> 00:47:15,916 Let's have a look, shall we? 506 00:47:20,625 --> 00:47:21,833 Wait. 507 00:47:22,000 --> 00:47:23,625 Loonie, wait! 508 00:48:28,083 --> 00:48:31,291 - Like chilli? - No. 509 00:48:32,833 --> 00:48:34,500 Well, you're gonna learn to. 510 00:48:36,583 --> 00:48:38,583 This is new. 511 00:48:41,250 --> 00:48:44,541 That, Pikelet, is my wife. 512 00:48:44,708 --> 00:48:46,583 - You're shitting me. - I shit you not. 513 00:48:46,750 --> 00:48:48,625 Far out. 514 00:48:48,791 --> 00:48:50,791 Yeah, pretty much covers it, doesn't it? 515 00:48:50,958 --> 00:48:52,916 How does she do it? 516 00:48:53,083 --> 00:48:55,250 Big downhill run off a jump. 517 00:48:55,416 --> 00:48:58,583 She just soars through the air while doing a flip. 518 00:48:58,750 --> 00:49:00,750 And lands on her feet. 519 00:49:03,083 --> 00:49:06,416 - Well, that's the plan. - Jeez. 520 00:49:06,583 --> 00:49:10,666 Yeah, she's erm.. Mate, she's pretty well known. 521 00:49:10,833 --> 00:49:13,416 And that's Utah in '71. 522 00:49:13,583 --> 00:49:16,541 And she's been out now three, maybe... four... 523 00:49:16,708 --> 00:49:18,458 More. 524 00:49:21,791 --> 00:49:23,416 She's over there right now. 525 00:49:23,583 --> 00:49:25,166 - Skiing? - Jesus, no. 526 00:49:25,333 --> 00:49:27,333 Not with that knee. She's erm... 527 00:49:28,666 --> 00:49:30,750 They're trying another operation. 528 00:49:32,708 --> 00:49:35,583 - And they're gonna fix it? - That's the hope. 529 00:49:38,583 --> 00:49:41,000 How can she stand it here? There's no snow. 530 00:49:43,875 --> 00:49:45,666 I think she prefers it. 531 00:49:47,625 --> 00:49:49,458 I mean, if you couldn't surf, 532 00:49:49,625 --> 00:49:51,916 could you stand living right next to the ocean? 533 00:49:52,083 --> 00:49:54,791 The ocean's beautiful. That'd be enough for me. 534 00:49:56,250 --> 00:49:57,708 Bullshit. 535 00:49:57,875 --> 00:50:00,541 No, really. You know, just to see it. 536 00:50:00,708 --> 00:50:03,458 Yeah, well, I'd rather be dead. 537 00:50:29,791 --> 00:50:31,625 Keep the chicken wire for me. 538 00:51:00,666 --> 00:51:02,541 They're okay. 539 00:51:02,708 --> 00:51:04,416 I don't want them here. 540 00:51:04,583 --> 00:51:07,166 Jesus Christ. Billy, grow up. 541 00:51:16,833 --> 00:51:20,000 Hey, Rooster. There you go, mate. 542 00:51:20,166 --> 00:51:22,375 You boys need to make yourselves scarce. 543 00:51:22,541 --> 00:51:25,416 No worries. 544 00:51:25,583 --> 00:51:28,666 Keep your eyes open. There's something brewing down south. 545 00:51:28,833 --> 00:51:31,625 - Could be good for Old Smoky. - Really? 546 00:51:36,208 --> 00:51:37,875 Welcome back, Eva. 547 00:51:42,000 --> 00:51:44,125 Let's just go to your place. 548 00:51:46,916 --> 00:51:49,583 There's no way I'd let my wife run the show. 549 00:51:49,750 --> 00:51:51,625 No way! 550 00:51:51,791 --> 00:51:54,083 He lets her get away with so much shit. 551 00:51:57,791 --> 00:51:59,833 Reckon your mum's done scones. 552 00:52:00,708 --> 00:52:02,708 I love your mum! 553 00:52:04,500 --> 00:52:06,625 There was nothing else to do but wait. 554 00:52:09,208 --> 00:52:11,166 - Then we got the word. - Good night. 555 00:52:11,333 --> 00:52:13,750 Old Smoky was on. 556 00:52:13,916 --> 00:52:15,666 God bless. 557 00:52:15,833 --> 00:52:18,333 Unfortunately for Loonie, two days earlier, 558 00:52:18,500 --> 00:52:20,875 he'd tripped down the stairs at the pub... 559 00:52:21,041 --> 00:52:23,583 with a little help from his old man, no doubt. 560 00:53:02,208 --> 00:53:03,916 That's him. 561 00:53:07,750 --> 00:53:10,000 Come on, let's go. 562 00:53:10,958 --> 00:53:12,958 Are you shitting yourself? 563 00:53:32,666 --> 00:53:34,416 What's he up to? 564 00:53:34,583 --> 00:53:37,000 Hey, Loonie... He doesn't want to watch? 565 00:53:37,166 --> 00:53:39,166 I don't think so. 566 00:53:42,541 --> 00:53:44,416 Hey, come and watch out for your mate. 567 00:53:44,583 --> 00:53:47,125 Oh, and spoil your secret hippy moment? 568 00:53:47,291 --> 00:53:49,333 - Watch and learn. - Ah, no fucking worries. 569 00:53:49,500 --> 00:53:52,166 - I'd love that. - Show a bit of support. 570 00:53:52,333 --> 00:53:54,250 What for? He's chicken. 571 00:53:54,416 --> 00:53:56,458 - You're a coward. - Jesus, son. 572 00:53:56,625 --> 00:53:58,958 - Don't be an arsehole. - Fuck off, coach! 573 00:54:22,458 --> 00:54:25,000 You're definitely getting wet this morning. 574 00:55:46,625 --> 00:55:48,125 Feels onshore in here, 575 00:55:48,291 --> 00:55:49,958 but round there it'll be clean. 576 00:55:50,125 --> 00:55:53,000 Getting out's the easy part. 577 00:55:53,166 --> 00:55:55,875 Coming in is when you have to concentrate. 578 00:55:56,041 --> 00:55:58,041 You've got to be patient, okay? 579 00:56:13,208 --> 00:56:15,416 Wouldn't be dead for quids, would you? 580 00:56:18,458 --> 00:56:20,208 I wonder what the ordinary people 581 00:56:20,375 --> 00:56:21,916 are doing today. 582 00:57:16,333 --> 00:57:17,791 What are you doing? 583 00:57:17,958 --> 00:57:19,875 - You ride the Brewer. - Oh, are you sure? 584 00:57:20,041 --> 00:57:23,166 Yeah, yeah, just take it before I change my mind. 585 00:57:23,333 --> 00:57:25,333 - Thanks. - Now, watch what I do... 586 00:57:25,500 --> 00:57:27,500 and you follow. 587 00:58:09,250 --> 00:58:11,500 You've got to get into some of that. 588 00:58:11,666 --> 00:58:13,708 You know what's what, mate. 589 00:58:13,875 --> 00:58:15,958 You'll never forgive yourself. 590 00:58:30,250 --> 00:58:31,791 Pikelet. 591 00:58:32,291 --> 00:58:33,958 Pikelet! 592 00:58:35,000 --> 00:58:36,750 Pikelet! 593 00:58:37,750 --> 00:58:39,666 Go out wide! In the channel! 594 00:58:39,833 --> 00:58:42,125 Deep water. Safe. 595 00:58:43,708 --> 00:58:45,166 Come on, mate. 596 00:58:54,416 --> 00:58:55,875 We'll do something else. 597 00:59:00,750 --> 00:59:03,583 Look at me. 598 00:59:03,750 --> 00:59:06,250 Let's just do something different, alright? 599 00:59:08,958 --> 00:59:11,708 - We're gonna play a little game. - Okay. 600 00:59:11,875 --> 00:59:14,375 We're gonna see who can touch the bottom first. 601 00:59:14,541 --> 00:59:17,416 Ready? One, two, three. 602 01:00:01,083 --> 01:00:02,916 You're right here, Pikelet. 603 01:00:03,083 --> 01:00:06,000 You're right here right now, okay? 604 01:00:06,166 --> 01:00:09,541 You just panicked, that's all. We all do that. 605 01:00:09,708 --> 01:00:12,208 You've got this, mate. You've got this, okay? 606 01:00:13,208 --> 01:00:15,333 Yeah? Let's do it. 607 01:00:15,500 --> 01:00:17,875 - Yeah. - Let's have a go. 608 01:00:18,041 --> 01:00:21,208 - Okay. - Come on. 609 01:00:21,375 --> 01:00:24,291 Alright, mate. You're gonna let the first one go, 610 01:00:24,458 --> 01:00:26,375 let it draw some water. 611 01:00:26,541 --> 01:00:29,541 And then the second one's got your name on it, okay? 612 01:00:29,708 --> 01:00:32,500 Paddle to it, turn and commit. 613 01:00:34,333 --> 01:00:36,000 Not a shred of doubt. 614 01:00:37,000 --> 01:00:38,750 Got me? 615 01:00:43,458 --> 01:00:45,458 Here we go. 616 01:00:58,291 --> 01:00:59,833 Go, Pikelet. 617 01:01:01,166 --> 01:01:03,166 Go, Pikelet! 618 01:01:25,875 --> 01:01:27,416 Pikelet! 619 01:01:55,708 --> 01:01:57,458 Yeah, mate. Good work. 620 01:01:57,625 --> 01:01:59,333 Good work. 621 01:01:59,500 --> 01:02:01,458 The next one's gonna be fun, alright? 622 01:02:01,625 --> 01:02:04,208 Hold off with your bottom turn, drop a bit of speed... 623 01:03:11,000 --> 01:03:12,875 How big? 624 01:03:13,041 --> 01:03:15,375 Big enough to get the Boy Wonder's heart started. 625 01:03:15,541 --> 01:03:18,208 How big... 626 01:03:18,375 --> 01:03:21,166 - ...Boy Wonder? - I don't know. 627 01:03:21,333 --> 01:03:23,250 Ten? 15? 628 01:03:23,416 --> 01:03:25,416 Yeah. Ten, maybe. 629 01:03:25,583 --> 01:03:28,750 Yeah. Surfed it at about ten. Solid. 630 01:03:28,916 --> 01:03:30,750 So he got waves? 631 01:03:30,916 --> 01:03:32,708 Yeah, yeah, he did good. 632 01:03:32,875 --> 01:03:34,916 I took the worst flogging ever. 633 01:03:35,958 --> 01:03:37,916 But you did the deed. 634 01:03:38,083 --> 01:03:39,916 Made himself a bit of history. 635 01:03:46,958 --> 01:03:48,791 He'd never be the first or the youngest 636 01:03:48,958 --> 01:03:50,500 out at Old Smoky, 637 01:03:50,666 --> 01:03:52,500 but he'd seen what he had to do, 638 01:03:52,666 --> 01:03:55,250 and by mid-winter he'd finally got his chance. 639 01:04:08,625 --> 01:04:11,583 Whatever we did that day, or any day, 640 01:04:11,750 --> 01:04:13,750 Loonie did it harder. 641 01:04:19,541 --> 01:04:21,875 He went later and deeper than either of us. 642 01:04:24,125 --> 01:04:26,208 He hadn't simply taken Old Smoky on. 643 01:04:26,375 --> 01:04:27,958 He'd taken it over. 644 01:04:29,708 --> 01:04:32,291 He surfed like someone who didn't believe in death. 645 01:04:37,458 --> 01:04:39,750 Yeah, killed it, Loonie! Killed it, mate! 646 01:04:39,916 --> 01:04:42,625 - Ripper! - Owned it, mate. 647 01:04:45,416 --> 01:04:47,458 - That's the way. - Fuck, yeah. 648 01:05:24,958 --> 01:05:26,958 Hey, hey! No, wait in the bus! 649 01:05:52,166 --> 01:05:54,500 The truckie! The truckie's stuck! 650 01:06:13,291 --> 01:06:15,375 Unlock it! Unlock it! 651 01:06:20,833 --> 01:06:22,500 Unlock it. 652 01:06:55,500 --> 01:06:57,500 Three miles offshore, 653 01:06:57,666 --> 01:07:00,041 a bommie off a granite island... seal colony... 654 01:07:00,208 --> 01:07:04,250 holds a shit-load of swell and gets very square. 655 01:07:04,416 --> 01:07:06,375 You launch from the old whaling cove. 656 01:07:06,541 --> 01:07:08,541 - You've done it? - I've scoped it a few times. 657 01:07:08,708 --> 01:07:11,458 - Buzzed out in the tinny. - But you haven't surfed it? 658 01:07:11,625 --> 01:07:13,458 You don't know when to stop. 659 01:07:13,625 --> 01:07:15,833 No, actually, I think you do know when you should stop, 660 01:07:16,000 --> 01:07:17,833 but you won't. 661 01:07:18,000 --> 01:07:19,791 No, Pikelet, I haven't surfed it yet. 662 01:07:19,958 --> 01:07:21,458 There's a wave inside the wave. 663 01:07:21,625 --> 01:07:23,125 That's right, the Nautilus. 664 01:07:23,291 --> 01:07:25,666 The reef must be right underneath the surface. 665 01:07:25,833 --> 01:07:28,916 Low tide, it's above the surface. 666 01:07:29,083 --> 01:07:31,083 You can only surf it mid to high. 667 01:07:32,083 --> 01:07:34,166 The next frontier. 668 01:07:34,333 --> 01:07:37,375 You think that's possible? Really, honestly? 669 01:07:37,541 --> 01:07:39,375 Honestly, Pikelet? 670 01:07:39,541 --> 01:07:41,458 I need to take a shit just looking at it. 671 01:07:41,625 --> 01:07:43,125 You scared, are you? 672 01:07:43,291 --> 01:07:44,750 I'm scared. 673 01:07:44,916 --> 01:07:47,041 Yeah, well, fear's only natural, mate. 674 01:07:47,208 --> 01:07:49,041 There's no shame in it. 675 01:07:49,208 --> 01:07:51,208 Whatever you reckon. 676 01:07:51,375 --> 01:07:53,416 People face down fears every day. 677 01:07:53,583 --> 01:07:55,541 They make bargains with God. 678 01:07:55,708 --> 01:07:58,041 They make a decision, they put their mind to it, 679 01:07:58,208 --> 01:08:00,833 then they're half way there. 680 01:08:01,000 --> 01:08:02,791 Daring to try, that's mankind for you. 681 01:08:02,958 --> 01:08:04,791 I'm sure you mean humankind. 682 01:08:04,958 --> 01:08:06,958 Yeah, thanks. 683 01:08:12,916 --> 01:08:14,958 We can always go back to surfing the point 684 01:08:15,125 --> 01:08:17,041 at two foot and sunny. 685 01:08:22,291 --> 01:08:24,041 Piece of piss! 686 01:08:26,791 --> 01:08:28,666 You're a turkey, Loonie. 687 01:08:28,833 --> 01:08:31,166 - I didn't say I was scared. - You are a turkey. 688 01:08:31,333 --> 01:08:33,916 - He said he was scared. - Turkey! Turkey! 689 01:08:45,583 --> 01:08:47,875 We started our research on the Nautilus. 690 01:08:48,875 --> 01:08:50,666 Homework, Sando called it. 691 01:08:52,125 --> 01:08:54,083 But that winter didn't amount to much. 692 01:08:54,250 --> 01:08:56,791 And without swell, we became bored... 693 01:08:57,791 --> 01:08:59,500 ...and restless. 694 01:09:07,500 --> 01:09:09,333 See you. 695 01:09:30,166 --> 01:09:32,458 Bruce Pike, 696 01:09:32,625 --> 01:09:35,041 you are moody, selfish and very inattentive. 697 01:09:36,041 --> 01:09:37,916 Therefore, I hereby notify you 698 01:09:38,083 --> 01:09:40,166 that you are, from this point forward, 699 01:09:40,333 --> 01:09:43,375 relieved of any further duties as my boyfriend. 700 01:09:43,541 --> 01:09:45,375 Yours sincerely, Queenie Cookson. 701 01:09:54,916 --> 01:09:58,708 If Ahab has his way, thee nor me nor any member 702 01:09:58,875 --> 01:10:01,125 of this ship's company will ever see home again. 703 01:10:01,291 --> 01:10:03,125 I hear Loonie's left school. 704 01:10:03,291 --> 01:10:05,416 Come now, Mr Starbuck, you're just plain gloomy. 705 01:10:05,583 --> 01:10:07,666 Dad said he's working down the mill. 706 01:10:07,833 --> 01:10:10,791 - He ain't that big. - I do not fear Moby Dick... 707 01:10:10,958 --> 01:10:12,791 Hm. 708 01:10:12,958 --> 01:10:15,916 - I fear the wrath of God. - The wrath of God? 709 01:10:17,541 --> 01:10:20,500 It is our task in life to kill whales, 710 01:10:20,666 --> 01:10:23,416 and furnish up their oil for the lamps of the world. 711 01:10:29,416 --> 01:10:31,583 A monster storm showed up. 712 01:10:31,750 --> 01:10:34,416 On the weather map, it looked like a tumour on the sea. 713 01:10:34,583 --> 01:10:36,416 Sando was fired up. 714 01:10:36,583 --> 01:10:38,708 He was determined we'd go for it this time. 715 01:11:27,541 --> 01:11:30,708 When you go, go early and go wide. 716 01:11:30,875 --> 01:11:32,708 I don't know if I'm feeling it. 717 01:11:32,875 --> 01:11:34,541 Come on, you know what's what. 718 01:11:34,708 --> 01:11:36,625 I think I'm just gonna watch for a bit. 719 01:11:36,791 --> 01:11:38,750 Didn't bring you out here to watch, mate. 720 01:11:38,916 --> 01:11:42,291 - Come on! Fuck, let's go! - Just wait! 721 01:11:42,458 --> 01:11:44,916 Stuff this. I'm out of here. 722 01:11:45,083 --> 01:11:47,208 Look, I thought I'd brought surfers with me, 723 01:11:47,375 --> 01:11:49,458 men above the ordinary. 724 01:11:59,208 --> 01:12:01,375 I said wait! 725 01:13:41,125 --> 01:13:43,208 Man, you gotta taste some of that! 726 01:14:45,500 --> 01:14:47,208 Hey... 727 01:15:18,958 --> 01:15:21,750 Hey, Rooster, boy. Hey... 728 01:15:26,458 --> 01:15:28,416 Come on. 729 01:15:32,208 --> 01:15:33,708 There you go. 730 01:16:01,333 --> 01:16:03,291 What are you doing sneaking around? 731 01:16:03,458 --> 01:16:05,958 Oh, I just came to, you know, see Sando. 732 01:16:06,125 --> 01:16:09,208 - What? - Just came to see Sando. 733 01:16:09,375 --> 01:16:11,333 Was that you the other night? 734 01:16:11,500 --> 01:16:13,625 What? No. 735 01:16:15,500 --> 01:16:17,208 Doesn't matter. 736 01:16:17,375 --> 01:16:19,083 Can you help me with this stuff, please? 737 01:16:19,250 --> 01:16:21,083 Pardon? 738 01:16:21,250 --> 01:16:24,250 Can you help me with this fucking stuff, please? 739 01:16:24,416 --> 01:16:26,125 Fuckin' rain. 740 01:16:39,125 --> 01:16:40,750 Do you want coffee? 741 01:16:46,458 --> 01:16:48,416 Oh, I can do that. I'll make the coffee. 742 01:16:48,583 --> 01:16:50,541 You sit down. 743 01:16:50,708 --> 01:16:52,625 Thanks. 744 01:17:05,750 --> 01:17:07,791 How's your knee? 745 01:17:14,041 --> 01:17:16,166 Here we are, Pikelet. 746 01:17:16,333 --> 01:17:18,333 All on our lonesome. 747 01:17:19,166 --> 01:17:21,458 What do you mean? 748 01:17:21,625 --> 01:17:24,625 - He didn't tell you either? - Tell me what? 749 01:17:27,083 --> 01:17:28,791 He's gone. 750 01:17:28,958 --> 01:17:31,083 Indonesia would be my guess. 751 01:17:31,250 --> 01:17:33,375 Took your little pal with him. 752 01:17:34,541 --> 01:17:36,208 - What? - Yeah. 753 01:17:36,375 --> 01:17:38,250 Took Loonie to Indo-fucking-nesia. 754 01:17:39,708 --> 01:17:41,708 You're the lone musketeer. 755 01:17:48,125 --> 01:17:51,500 You couldn't have gone anyway. You've got school and stuff. 756 01:17:51,666 --> 01:17:53,791 - Yeah, but... - Bad manners. 757 01:17:55,916 --> 01:17:58,916 Guru shit and bad manners pretty much go hand in hand. 758 01:18:31,666 --> 01:18:33,541 Do you want coffee? 759 01:18:34,958 --> 01:18:37,000 I don't even drink bloody coffee. 760 01:18:38,125 --> 01:18:39,958 Come on in and get dry. 761 01:18:40,125 --> 01:18:43,125 You'll catch your death out here. 762 01:18:43,291 --> 01:18:45,541 I'm getting you a towel and a dry shirt. 763 01:19:07,791 --> 01:19:09,500 Thank you. 764 01:19:12,375 --> 01:19:14,375 - I can do it. - It's alright. 765 01:20:01,958 --> 01:20:03,625 Hold me. 766 01:21:25,000 --> 01:21:27,750 Be nice to me, okay, Pikelet? 767 01:21:28,916 --> 01:21:30,625 I will. 768 01:21:32,416 --> 01:21:34,500 Don't brag about me. 769 01:21:37,166 --> 01:21:39,250 Not to Loonie, not to anyone. 770 01:21:40,166 --> 01:21:41,833 Okay. 771 01:21:42,000 --> 01:21:43,916 I won't. 772 01:21:58,166 --> 01:21:59,791 No-one. 773 01:23:15,333 --> 01:23:18,000 I had a postcard from Thailand. 774 01:23:19,541 --> 01:23:22,875 There's waves in Thailand. 775 01:23:23,041 --> 01:23:26,500 - He's been in Bangkok. - Aren't they in Java? 776 01:23:26,666 --> 01:23:30,291 Something about supplies. Who knows? 777 01:23:30,458 --> 01:23:32,916 Now he's talking about the eastern islands. 778 01:23:40,708 --> 01:23:42,333 Why do you let him go? 779 01:23:46,208 --> 01:23:48,208 He needs it. 780 01:23:51,041 --> 01:23:52,916 What about what you need? 781 01:23:57,333 --> 01:23:59,083 He knows what I need. 782 01:24:02,875 --> 01:24:05,083 It's getting cold. You should go. 783 01:24:06,666 --> 01:24:08,666 I can make a fire. 784 01:24:22,791 --> 01:24:24,541 God, you're getting weirder. 785 01:24:26,250 --> 01:24:31,291 - What's been happening? - Nothing. Nothing much. 786 01:24:31,458 --> 01:24:34,000 It's like you're off the air. 787 01:24:34,166 --> 01:24:37,250 Just got lots going on, that's all. 788 01:24:37,416 --> 01:24:39,916 So, lots or nothing much? Which one is it? 789 01:24:47,416 --> 01:24:50,416 I still want you to take me to the social, okay? 790 01:24:51,833 --> 01:24:53,583 Will you? 791 01:25:20,583 --> 01:25:22,958 Those last few moments in the air... 792 01:25:25,375 --> 01:25:27,958 ...they were the last happy moments of my life. 793 01:25:32,875 --> 01:25:34,583 I miss being afraid. 794 01:25:36,125 --> 01:25:38,125 Maybe it'll get better this time. 795 01:25:55,666 --> 01:25:57,708 I love you. 796 01:26:02,375 --> 01:26:04,208 You love getting laid. 797 01:26:07,333 --> 01:26:09,458 No. I mean it. 798 01:26:15,125 --> 01:26:17,125 You don't know what you mean. 799 01:26:19,875 --> 01:26:22,791 Don't say shit you don't understand. Just don't. 800 01:26:35,458 --> 01:26:37,125 Alright. 801 01:26:37,291 --> 01:26:39,375 Pick you up at 11:30. 802 01:26:49,916 --> 01:26:51,625 Thanks, Dad. 803 01:27:50,125 --> 01:27:51,708 I can't. 804 01:27:53,458 --> 01:27:55,416 It's nothing. 805 01:27:57,416 --> 01:27:59,375 Whatever you reckon. 806 01:28:45,916 --> 01:28:47,875 Want to play a game? 807 01:29:03,000 --> 01:29:04,750 I don't get it. 808 01:29:04,916 --> 01:29:06,625 I'll show you. 809 01:29:08,291 --> 01:29:10,375 What if I don't want to? 810 01:29:10,541 --> 01:29:12,541 I'll be disappointed, I guess. 811 01:29:15,583 --> 01:29:17,583 Alright. Show me. 812 01:29:19,000 --> 01:29:21,000 You know how to hyperventilate, right? 813 01:29:23,458 --> 01:29:26,708 - It's kind of like that. - You choke yourself? 814 01:29:28,083 --> 01:29:29,500 Sort of, yeah. 815 01:29:29,666 --> 01:29:31,875 Fuck, why? 816 01:29:32,958 --> 01:29:34,541 Because, little man, 817 01:29:34,708 --> 01:29:37,416 makes me come like a freight train. 818 01:29:38,958 --> 01:29:40,875 What? You want me to... 819 01:29:42,833 --> 01:29:44,541 ...choke myself too? 820 01:29:45,375 --> 01:29:47,375 No, of course not. 821 01:29:50,083 --> 01:29:51,791 I just want you to watch. 822 01:29:55,833 --> 01:29:57,916 Jeez, I... I don't know. 823 01:30:05,250 --> 01:30:08,875 It feels better, I can't tell you. 824 01:30:09,041 --> 01:30:12,916 And it's safer, like having a dive buddy. 825 01:30:15,000 --> 01:30:17,166 I don't want you to hurt yourself. 826 01:30:17,333 --> 01:30:19,000 I won't. 827 01:30:19,166 --> 01:30:20,750 Not if you don't let me. 828 01:30:30,208 --> 01:30:32,375 I love you. 829 01:30:32,541 --> 01:30:34,208 We'll see. 830 01:31:28,333 --> 01:31:30,041 Pikelet, it's okay, I'm fine. 831 01:31:32,916 --> 01:31:34,458 Look at me. I'm fine. 832 01:31:51,666 --> 01:31:53,500 Being scared's half the fun. 833 01:31:55,625 --> 01:31:57,625 You should know that by now. 834 01:32:06,958 --> 01:32:09,000 Does Sando do that to you? 835 01:32:10,916 --> 01:32:12,958 I don't have to answer that. 836 01:32:25,375 --> 01:32:27,125 I don't like it. 837 01:32:29,500 --> 01:32:31,500 I understand you, Pikelet. 838 01:32:33,250 --> 01:32:34,750 You're different. 839 01:32:36,166 --> 01:32:38,958 You've got this look... 840 01:32:39,125 --> 01:32:41,583 ...like you're expecting to lose something. 841 01:32:43,083 --> 01:32:45,000 And you're right. 842 01:32:47,083 --> 01:32:49,375 You're right to expect it to be snatched away. 843 01:32:51,125 --> 01:32:52,625 'Cause it can be. 844 01:33:08,208 --> 01:33:10,875 I don't know. It doesn't feel right. 845 01:33:12,958 --> 01:33:16,125 I just don't think you should ask me to do certain stuff. 846 01:33:18,250 --> 01:33:20,416 Yeah, I'll be here. 847 01:34:48,791 --> 01:34:50,791 Are you pregnant? 848 01:34:58,791 --> 01:35:01,458 Go home. Fun's over. 849 01:35:17,500 --> 01:35:20,958 - Is it mine? - Don't be absurd. 850 01:35:35,791 --> 01:35:38,208 Well... I can... 851 01:35:38,375 --> 01:35:40,458 Do you want me to chop some wood? 852 01:35:41,666 --> 01:35:44,000 No, I don't. Just go. 853 01:39:41,083 --> 01:39:43,291 Hey. How's it goin'? 854 01:39:43,458 --> 01:39:45,375 When did you get back? 855 01:39:45,541 --> 01:39:47,458 Last night. 856 01:39:51,083 --> 01:39:54,583 - So, how was it over there? - Fuckin' unbelievable. 857 01:39:54,750 --> 01:39:58,166 We got everything. We got shot at, seen off, 858 01:39:58,333 --> 01:40:00,250 spider-bitten, deported. 859 01:40:00,416 --> 01:40:02,250 And honkin' waves. 860 01:40:02,416 --> 01:40:03,750 I copped this. 861 01:40:03,916 --> 01:40:05,583 What happened? 862 01:40:05,750 --> 01:40:07,833 Oh, just the reef. Rips the shit out of you. 863 01:40:08,000 --> 01:40:09,833 Uluwatu. It's... 864 01:40:10,000 --> 01:40:11,791 It's insane. 865 01:40:11,958 --> 01:40:13,875 You would've loved it. Just big, smooth, 866 01:40:14,041 --> 01:40:16,875 green walls that just reel off for days. 867 01:40:17,041 --> 01:40:19,291 - Yeah. - Wow! 868 01:40:19,458 --> 01:40:23,208 It was fuckin' amazing, man. You really missed out. 869 01:40:23,375 --> 01:40:24,958 I brought you something. 870 01:40:25,125 --> 01:40:26,375 Here. 871 01:40:26,541 --> 01:40:28,416 - What is it? - Close your eyes. 872 01:40:28,583 --> 01:40:30,500 Hold out your hand. 873 01:40:31,500 --> 01:40:33,333 Don't look. Just smell it. 874 01:40:34,458 --> 01:40:36,125 It smells like shit. 875 01:40:36,291 --> 01:40:38,416 Had to get it through the airport somehow! 876 01:40:38,583 --> 01:40:40,416 It's hash, mate. 877 01:40:40,583 --> 01:40:42,791 Had it up my date. Johnny Cash. 878 01:40:42,958 --> 01:40:46,208 Put it in your pocket. You'll thank me later. 879 01:40:49,458 --> 01:40:52,625 Lookin' tall and stassy, Pikelet. Manly. 880 01:40:52,791 --> 01:40:54,833 Hm. I like it. 881 01:40:55,000 --> 01:40:58,583 But, um, heard you went out Old Smoky and lost his Brewer. 882 01:40:58,750 --> 01:41:02,041 - Yeah. - Gonna be dirty about that. 883 01:41:02,208 --> 01:41:04,416 Could be dirty about something else too. 884 01:41:07,125 --> 01:41:09,166 What are you talking about? 885 01:41:09,333 --> 01:41:11,250 Oh, nothing. Just gossip. 886 01:41:11,416 --> 01:41:14,458 Filthy gossip. The old man, you know? 887 01:41:14,625 --> 01:41:17,166 Hm... Nautilus is gonna break this weekend. 888 01:41:17,333 --> 01:41:18,833 - Yeah? - Mm. 889 01:41:19,000 --> 01:41:21,291 Sunday morning, Sando reckons. 890 01:41:21,458 --> 01:41:24,291 He said he wanted to catch up with you. 891 01:41:24,458 --> 01:41:26,750 - I haven't seen him. - He's scared of Nautilus. 892 01:41:26,916 --> 01:41:28,791 Shit-scared of it. 893 01:41:28,958 --> 01:41:31,000 He's getting old, but... 894 01:41:31,166 --> 01:41:34,375 Oh. Hello, Ivan. Back, I see. 895 01:41:34,541 --> 01:41:36,750 Yeah, back in little old Sawyer. 896 01:41:39,708 --> 01:41:41,208 Oh. 897 01:41:48,625 --> 01:41:50,666 See you Sunday. Dawn's crack. 898 01:41:52,666 --> 01:41:54,208 Sando'll talk to you. 899 01:41:55,416 --> 01:41:56,791 Pssht. 900 01:42:50,000 --> 01:42:52,041 - How've you been? - Yeah, good. 901 01:42:52,208 --> 01:42:54,083 Yeah? 902 01:42:54,250 --> 01:42:56,583 Chopped a lot of wood out at my place, Pikelet. 903 01:42:56,750 --> 01:42:59,375 - Bloody lot. - Yeah. 904 01:42:59,541 --> 01:43:03,166 Don't want you to think I don't notice these things. 905 01:43:03,333 --> 01:43:05,625 Eva was glad for the company. So she says. 906 01:43:05,791 --> 01:43:07,708 - Yeah? - Mm. 907 01:43:07,875 --> 01:43:09,708 Got the board back. The Brewer. 908 01:43:09,875 --> 01:43:11,416 - Really? - Yeah. 909 01:43:11,583 --> 01:43:13,916 Tuna fisherman found it 25Ks out to sea. 910 01:43:14,083 --> 01:43:15,916 Yeah. Sorry about that. 911 01:43:16,083 --> 01:43:17,916 No worries, mate. Don't need to be sorry. 912 01:43:18,083 --> 01:43:19,916 You took on Old Smoky by yourself. 913 01:43:20,083 --> 01:43:22,000 That's up there, Pikelet. Hats off, mate. 914 01:43:22,166 --> 01:43:23,791 That is up there. 915 01:43:23,958 --> 01:43:26,166 In my books, you earned that board. 916 01:43:26,333 --> 01:43:28,208 It's yours, mate. Yours. 917 01:43:28,375 --> 01:43:30,541 - Oh, thanks, but... - No, no, it's yours. 918 01:43:30,708 --> 01:43:32,208 Okay? 919 01:43:34,458 --> 01:43:35,916 Thanks. 920 01:43:36,083 --> 01:43:37,916 It's alright. 921 01:43:38,083 --> 01:43:39,791 Your mate Loonie... 922 01:43:39,958 --> 01:43:41,750 Jesus! 923 01:43:41,916 --> 01:43:44,166 Well, you know what he's like. 924 01:43:44,333 --> 01:43:46,416 Long story. Can't be trusted. 925 01:43:47,625 --> 01:43:49,291 Wilful little bastard. 926 01:43:49,458 --> 01:43:51,458 He's fuckin' nuts, actually. 927 01:43:55,041 --> 01:43:57,291 You know what else? 928 01:43:57,458 --> 01:43:59,125 What? 929 01:44:01,333 --> 01:44:04,208 Well, I think you know what I'm talking about. 930 01:44:05,708 --> 01:44:07,458 No. 931 01:44:10,500 --> 01:44:12,083 I'm gonna be a father. 932 01:44:14,166 --> 01:44:16,000 Yeah. I thought you looked different. 933 01:44:16,166 --> 01:44:17,875 Did you? 934 01:44:20,625 --> 01:44:22,583 Well, are you gonna congratulate me or what? 935 01:44:22,750 --> 01:44:24,458 Yeah! Course. 936 01:44:24,625 --> 01:44:26,875 - Congratulations. - Yeah, thanks, man. 937 01:44:27,041 --> 01:44:28,958 So, listen, there's... 938 01:44:29,125 --> 01:44:31,375 There's a front coming in from down south. 939 01:44:31,541 --> 01:44:33,875 Should be breaking at Nautilus this Sunday morning. 940 01:44:34,041 --> 01:44:35,875 Good clean swell. 941 01:44:36,041 --> 01:44:38,250 Perfect angle. You're gonna want to be there 942 01:44:38,416 --> 01:44:40,416 with that Brewer under your feet. 943 01:44:41,416 --> 01:44:43,291 - Yeah. Okay. - Okay. 944 01:44:43,458 --> 01:44:46,083 Alright, mate. Well, I'll pick you up Sunday at dawn. 945 01:45:43,208 --> 01:45:45,208 So, erm, yeah... 946 01:45:46,291 --> 01:45:48,083 Yeah, what? 947 01:45:49,458 --> 01:45:51,416 I'm not coming. 948 01:45:51,583 --> 01:45:53,416 Fuck. 949 01:45:53,583 --> 01:45:55,833 - You're kidding! - No. 950 01:45:56,000 --> 01:45:57,958 It's not for me. 951 01:45:59,291 --> 01:46:01,250 It's an ugly wave, and I don't like it. 952 01:46:01,416 --> 01:46:03,041 Bullshit. 953 01:46:03,208 --> 01:46:04,958 Get in. 954 01:46:06,166 --> 01:46:08,041 Get in. 955 01:46:15,500 --> 01:46:17,458 It doesn't make me ordinary... 956 01:46:17,625 --> 01:46:19,500 or a coward. 957 01:46:20,541 --> 01:46:22,541 It's just not for me. 958 01:46:29,166 --> 01:46:31,000 Okay, mate. 959 01:46:31,166 --> 01:46:33,416 Maybe you should get your board out of the back. 960 01:46:33,583 --> 01:46:35,416 No, it's fine. It's not even my board. 961 01:46:35,583 --> 01:46:39,333 I said you earned that board. So it's yours, okay? 962 01:46:39,500 --> 01:46:41,708 Now get your fucking board out of the back. 963 01:46:51,458 --> 01:46:53,375 Pikelet, come here! 964 01:47:03,875 --> 01:47:06,041 You've got your own thing, Pikelet. 965 01:47:06,208 --> 01:47:08,000 Don't lose that, okay? 966 01:47:10,166 --> 01:47:11,833 Now piss off. 967 01:47:55,125 --> 01:47:57,583 - Ah, ta. - There you go. 968 01:47:57,750 --> 01:47:59,791 There's fear in all of us. 969 01:47:59,958 --> 01:48:02,125 I know that now. 970 01:48:02,291 --> 01:48:05,125 It's how you live with it that makes you who you are. 971 01:48:10,500 --> 01:48:13,291 Years later, when I got the news about Loonie, 972 01:48:13,458 --> 01:48:15,416 I can't say I was surprised. 973 01:48:16,416 --> 01:48:18,750 But it hit me... hard. 974 01:48:21,166 --> 01:48:24,166 A single gunshot to the back of the head. 975 01:48:24,333 --> 01:48:26,333 Some kind of drug deal gone bad. 976 01:48:31,125 --> 01:48:33,458 He always lived like he had nothing to lose. 977 01:48:33,625 --> 01:48:35,625 'Cause he thought he didn't matter. 978 01:48:41,250 --> 01:48:43,291 Well, he mattered to me. 979 01:48:48,291 --> 01:48:50,500 I miss the mad bastard. 980 01:49:01,625 --> 01:49:03,708 I still paddle out whenever I can. 981 01:49:04,750 --> 01:49:08,291 Not to prove anything. Just... to feel it. 982 01:49:09,375 --> 01:49:11,166 That sweet momentum. 983 01:49:11,333 --> 01:49:13,875 The turning force under foot. 984 01:49:15,083 --> 01:49:18,041 And in those brief, rare moments of grace... 985 01:49:20,666 --> 01:49:22,208 ...I'm dancing. 986 01:49:32,589 --> 01:49:37,589 OCR'd and corrected by explosiveskull