1
00:00:23,623 --> 00:00:33,466
HOW MANY BOTTLES WERE YOU ABLE
TO PRODUCE?
>> A NORMAL YEAR, I PRODUCE
AROUND 40,000, 50,000 BOTTLES.
2
00:00:33,533 --> 00:00:39,506
>> THIS YEAR?
>> ZERO.
>> CLIMATE CHANGE HAS AFFECTED
MANY OF FRANCE'S VINTAGES
3
00:00:39,572 --> 00:00:46,045
SEVERELY.
ITS ECONOMY, TOO.
BUT IN RAINY OLD ENGLAND, ACROSS
THE CHANNEL, WE FOUND A VERY
4
00:00:46,112 --> 00:00:55,155
DIFFERENT STORY.
DO YOU THINK THAT WINE LOVERS
AROUND THE WORLD ALREADY KNOW
THAT GREAT WINES ARE COMING OUT
5
00:00:55,221 --> 00:01:02,195
OF ENGLAND?
IN OTHER WORDS-- IS IT
"OOH, LA LA" NO MORE?
IT'S "JOLLY GOOD"?
6
00:01:02,262 --> 00:01:04,264
( LAUGHTER )
( TICKING )
7
00:01:06,399 --> 00:01:14,441
>> IN A CHANGING BRITAIN,
NOSTALGIA CAN RESIDE AT THE
BOTTOM OF A GLASS.
IN THE OH-SO-ENGLISH VILLAGE OF
8
00:01:14,507 --> 00:01:20,513
ALDWORTH IN BERKSHIRE, YOU'LL
FIND JUST A CRICKET GREEN, A
CHURCH, A FEW HOUSES, AND A PUB
RESISTANT TO TIME.
9
00:01:20,580 --> 00:01:27,654
THE BELL INN HAS BEEN IN THE
FAMILY OF HEATHER MACAULEY FOR
200 YEARS.
WE'VE TALKED TO SOME PUB OWNERS
10
00:01:27,720 --> 00:01:39,265
WHO'VE SAID THEY-- THEY FELT
THIS PRESSURE TO EVOLVE, AND
THEY'RE TRYING GOURMET FOOD AND
D.J.s AND TECHNOLOGY.
11
00:01:41,868 --> 00:01:48,074
>> Lesley Stahl: GOOD EVENING,
WELCOME TO "60 MINUTES
PRESENTS."
I'M LESLEY STAHL.
12
00:01:48,141 --> 00:01:55,882
TONIGHT, WE RAISE A GLASS, AND
LIFT A PINT, TO OFFER "CHEERS"
TO THE VENERABLE ENGLISH PUB.
BUT WE BEGIN WITH THE WINE
13
00:01:55,949 --> 00:02:01,788
INDUSTRY.
WHAT ARE THE SIGNS OF GLOBAL
WARMING?
GLACIERS ARE MELTING AT AN
14
00:02:01,855 --> 00:02:08,628
INCREASINGLY RAPID PACE.
PERSISTENT DROUGHTS ARE
SPREADING.
AND, WE HAVE ANOTHER TO TELL YOU
15
00:02:08,695 --> 00:02:17,437
ABOUT-- WINE.
AS IN, WHAT YOU MIGHT CRACK OPEN
FOR VALENTINE'S DAY TOMORROW.
FARMERS WHO GROW THE GRAPES HAVE
16
00:02:17,504 --> 00:02:24,711
SEEN THE EFFECTS OF CLIMATE
CHANGE IN THE SOIL, IN THE ROOTS
OF THE VINES, AND THE YIELDS OF
THEIR CROPS.
17
00:02:24,777 --> 00:02:33,486
FRANCE, A MAJOR CENTER OF
WINEMAKING FOR CENTURIES, IS
EXPERIENCING INCREASINGLY HIGHER
TEMPERATURES AND EXTREME WEATHER
18
00:02:33,553 --> 00:02:42,395
CONDITIONS THAT HAVE DAMAGED
VINTAGES AND LIVELIHOODS.
THIS PAST YEAR WAS PARTICULARLY
DRAMATIC.
19
00:02:42,462 --> 00:02:51,371
FRANC RECORDED ITS SMALLEST
HARVEST SINCE 1957, AND STANDS
TO LOSE MORE THAN $2 BILLION IN
SALES-- A HUGE BLOW TO THE
20
00:02:51,437 --> 00:02:59,112
COUNTRY'S SECOND-LARGEST EXPORT
INDUSTRY.
AND, AS WE FIRST REPORTED IN
DECEMBER, IT'S HITTING NEARLY
21
00:02:59,178 --> 00:03:07,420
ALL THE WINE-GROWING REGIONS,
WHERE THEY MAKE DRY WHITES,
FRUITY REDS, AND FIZZY
CHAMPAGNE.
22
00:03:07,487 --> 00:03:15,628
ALL BUBBLIES ARE CALLED
SPARKLING WINE, BUT CHAMPAGNE IS
MADE HERE AND NOWHERE ELSE-- IN
THESE VINEYARDS AND VILLAGES OF
23
00:03:15,695 --> 00:03:27,607
CHAMPAGNE, LOCATED IN
NORTHEASTERN FRANCE.
THERE'S A MYSTIQUE TO CHAMPAGNE,
AN AURA OF ROMANCE.
24
00:03:27,674 --> 00:03:35,315
COCO CHANEL ONCE SAID, "I ONLY
DRINK CHAMPAGNE ON TWO
OCCASIONS-- WHEN I'M IN LOVE,
AND WHEN I'M NOT."
25
00:03:35,381 --> 00:03:40,553
THEY'VE BEEN PRODUCING THIS
"WINE OF KINGS" HERE FOR
CENTURIES.
SO, HOW LONG HAS THIS WINEMAKING
26
00:03:40,620 --> 00:03:46,793
BUSINESS AND THE VINEYARDS BEEN
IN YOUR FAMILY?
>> Christine Sevillano: FROM
1700.
27
00:03:46,859 --> 00:03:52,765
>> Stahl: 1700.
>> Sevillano: YES.
>> Stahl: CHRISTINE SEVILLANO
TOOK OVER THE FAMILY BUSINESS
28
00:03:52,832 --> 00:04:00,707
AND ITS 20 ACRES OF VINES 14
YEARS AGO.
SHE'S THE TENTH GENERATION.
>> Sevillano: THIS IS THE CELLAR
29
00:04:00,773 --> 00:04:08,114
OF MY GRANDFATHER.
>> Stahl: OH.
AFTER SURVIVING THE FRENCH
REVOLUTION AND TWO WORLD WARS,
30
00:04:08,181 --> 00:04:14,087
HER FAMILY'S HOUSE OF PIOT-
SEVILLANO FACED ITS WORST YEAR
EVER IN 2021.
>> Sevillano: WE LOST 90% OF OUR
31
00:04:14,153 --> 00:04:20,326
HARVEST.
>> Stahl: 90%?
>> Sevillano: YES.
>> Stahl: HOW MANY BOTTLES WERE
32
00:04:20,393 --> 00:04:30,570
YOU ABLE TO PRODUCE THIS YEAR,
AS OPPOSED TO A NORMAL YEAR?
>> Sevillano: A NORMAL YEAR, I
PRODUCE AROUND 40,000, 50,000
33
00:04:30,637 --> 00:04:36,609
BOTTLES.
>> Stahl: AND THIS YEAR?
>> Sevillano: ZERO.
IT'S THEFIRST TIME IN THE
34
00:04:36,676 --> 00:04:43,983
HISTORY OF MY WINERY THAT WE
WILL NOT MAKE CHAMPAGNE.
>> Stahl: NOT A SINGLE BOTTLE
FROM THIS WINERY?
35
00:04:44,050 --> 00:04:50,089
>> Sevillano: YES, YES.
>> Stahl: HIGHER TEMPERATURES
AND EXTREME WEATHER EPISODES
DEVASTATED NOT ONLY HER HARVEST,
36
00:04:50,156 --> 00:04:59,432
BUT MUCH OF CHAMPAGNE'S.
>> Sevillano: IT RAINED IN TWO
OR THREE DAYS THAT IT RAINED
NORMALLY IN ONE MONTH.
37
00:04:59,499 --> 00:05:03,536
EVEN MY FATHER TOLD ME THAT IN
HIS CAREER HE HAS NEVER SEEN
THAT.
>> Stahl: ALMOST FLOOD-LIKE?
38
00:05:03,603 --> 00:05:12,679
>> Sevillano: YES.
>> Stahl: THE WORST OF IT, SHE
SAYS, CAME IN JUNE AND JULY,
WHEN THE HEAT AND THE RAINS
39
00:05:12,745 --> 00:05:19,318
RESULTED IN A MORE CRIPPLING
OUTBREAK THAN USUAL OF FUNGUSES,
LIKE MILDEW CONTAMINATION.
>> Sevillano: IN FACT, WHEN THE
40
00:05:19,385 --> 00:05:26,626
GRAPES ARE CONTAMINATED, THE--
THE FRUIT IS DRYING.
AND AFTER, WE CAN'T USE IT,
BECAUSE THERE IS NO JUICE,
41
00:05:26,693 --> 00:05:32,532
NOTHING.
>> Stahl: AND YOU ATTRIBUTE THIS
TO CLIMATE CHANGE?
>> Sevillano: YES.
42
00:05:32,598 --> 00:05:38,271
BECAUSE IT WAS SO EXTREME.
IT'S NOT NORMAL.
>> Stahl: LAST YEAR'S EXTREME
WEATHER NOT ONLY BATTERED
43
00:05:38,337 --> 00:05:46,212
CHAMPAGNE AND THE FOUNDATION OF
ITS ECONOMY, BUT NEARLY EVERY
ONE OF THE WINE-PRODUCING
REGIONS IN FRANCE-- BURGUNDY TO
44
00:05:46,279 --> 00:05:53,052
BORDEAUX, WHERE SOME OF THE
HIGHEST QUALITY, BEST-KNOWN AND
BEST-TASTING REDS AND WHITES ARE
MADE.
45
00:05:53,119 --> 00:05:56,456
AND THESE ARE WHAT GRAPE?
WHAT, WHAT--
>> Jacques Lurton: THIS IS
MERLOT.
46
00:05:56,522 --> 00:06:02,261
>> Stahl: MERLOT!
I LOVE MERLOT.
>> Lurton: YEAH, MERLOT MAKES A
BEAUTIFUL, SOFT-ROUNDED WINES.
47
00:06:02,328 --> 00:06:09,535
>> Stahl: JACQUES LURTON, THE
HEAD OF A WINE FAMILY DYNASTY,
RUNS THE CHATEAU LA LOUVIERE AND
SEVERAL OTHER WINERIES IN
48
00:06:09,602 --> 00:06:17,210
BORDEAUX.
HE SAYS VINE DISEASE IS GETTING
WORSE ALL OVER FRANCE BECAUSE OF
THE RISING TEMPERATURES.
49
00:06:17,276 --> 00:06:25,985
>> Lurton: WE DON'T HAVE WINTERS
ANYMORE, ALMOST.
IN WINTERTIME, NORMALLY YOU GET
COLDER CONDITIONS.
50
00:06:26,052 --> 00:06:32,959
THESE COOL CONDITIONS TEND TO
KILL THE FUNGUSES OR THE
DISEASE.
SO NORMALLY, WINTER CLEANS THE
51
00:06:33,025 --> 00:06:40,700
SITUATION, YOU SEE?
BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT PROBLEM
THAT WE HAVE IS WHAT WE CALL
SPRING FROST.
52
00:06:40,767 --> 00:06:50,076
>> Stahl: SPRING FROST WAS SO
SEVERE IN APRIL THAT WINEGROWERS
WERE ON THEIR KNEES LIGHTING
BALES OF HAY AND CANDLES BETWEEN
53
00:06:50,143 --> 00:06:56,716
THEIR VINES IN A MOSTLY FUTILE
ATTEMPT TO PROTECT THEIR YOUNG
BUDS.
>> Lurton: IT IS THE LARGEST
54
00:06:56,783 --> 00:07:02,622
CATASTROPHE WE HAVE EVER
SUFFERED.
BECAUSE, BEFORE, WE HAD SOME
SPRING FROST IN SOME REGIONS,
55
00:07:02,688 --> 00:07:09,962
BUT THIS IS THE FIRST TIME WE
HAVE IT ALL OVER FRANCE.
NOW, DUE TO THE FACT THAT WE
DON'T HAVE THESE VERY STRONG
56
00:07:10,029 --> 00:07:17,336
WINTERS, THE BUDS START TO OPEN,
AND THEN EXPOSE THEMSELVES TO
THIS SERIES OF SPRING FROST THAT
WE HAVE.
57
00:07:17,403 --> 00:07:24,977
>> Stahl: AND THAT IS THE CRUX--
>> Lurton: AND THAT, YOU SEE, IS
WHAT AFFECT THE MOST THE
QUANTITY OF THE GRAPES.
58
00:07:25,044 --> 00:07:32,251
>> Stahl: SO, TELL US ABOUT THIS
YEAR, IN TERMS OF THE AMOUNT.
>> Lurton: IN AVERAGE, IN FRANCE
THIS YEAR, A LOSS OF 30%.
59
00:07:32,318 --> 00:07:40,459
>> Stahl: 30% OF THE YIELDS.
AND WHAT ABOUT YOU?
WHAT'S YOUR PERCENT?
>> Lurton: AND US, WE HAVE BEEN
60
00:07:40,526 --> 00:07:46,999
AFFECTED UP TO 40%.
>> Stahl: SO, YOU'RE ONE OF THE
LARGEST WINE PRODUCERS IN
BORDEAUX.
61
00:07:47,066 --> 00:07:51,237
40% LOSS.
I MEAN, THAT'S ENORMOUS.
>> Lurton: IT'S HUGE.
IT'S HUGE.
62
00:07:51,304 --> 00:07:59,612
>> Stahl: FOR BORDEAUX, HE
ESTIMATES A LOSS OF ROUGHLY $800
MILLION IN SALES LAST YEAR.
IS THIS SOMETHING THAT'S
63
00:07:59,679 --> 00:08:04,550
HAPPENING ALL OVER EUROPE OR--
OR JUST FRANCE?
>> Greg Jones: NO.
IT'S HAPPENING ALL OVER EUROPE,
64
00:08:04,617 --> 00:08:12,859
DEFINITELY.
>> Stahl: GREG JONES IS A
RESEARCH CLIMATOLOGIST WITH
SOUTHERN OREGON UNIVERSITY, WHO
65
00:08:12,925 --> 00:08:19,432
FOR 25 YEARS HAS SPECIALIZED IN
THE STUDY OF HOW CLIMATE
INFLUENCES THE GROWING AND
HARVESTING OF WINE GRAPES.
66
00:08:19,498 --> 00:08:24,036
>> Jones: WHAT WE'RE SEEING
TODAY IS, WE'RE SEEING MORE OF
THESE EXTREME EVENTS HAPPENING
MORE FREQUENTLY AT GREATER
67
00:08:24,103 --> 00:08:27,640
DEGREES AND CAUSING MORE
PROBLEMS.
>> Stahl: YEAH, WE SEE IT
EVERYWHERE.
68
00:08:27,707 --> 00:08:34,347
IT'S NOT JUST IN FARM REGIONS.
I MEAN, EVERY PART OF OUR
COUNTRY IS EXPERIENCING SOME
EXTREME WEATHER CONDITION.
69
00:08:34,413 --> 00:08:42,054
SO, HOW DO YOU KNOW IT ISN'T
THAT "NORMAL" EXTREME WEATHER,
AS OPPOSED TO A GENERAL CLIMATE
CHANGE?
70
00:08:42,121 --> 00:08:48,327
>> Jones: THERE'S AN AREA IN
CLIMATE SCIENCE CALLED
ATTRIBUTION SCIENCE.
AND ATTRIBUTION SCIENCE IS ALL
71
00:08:48,394 --> 00:08:55,067
ABOUT TRYING TO KIND OF
UNDERSTAND HOW MUCH ROLE HUMANS
HAVE IN THE GAME OF CLIMATE.
SO, THE IDEA--
72
00:08:55,134 --> 00:09:00,606
>> Stahl: OR WHO TO ATTRIBUTE IT
TO, OKAY.
>> Jones: YEAH, YEAH.
SO, WHAT CLIMATOLOGISTS DO IS,
73
00:09:00,673 --> 00:09:06,679
WE DEVELOP MODELS THAT LOOK AT
ASPECTS OF CLIMATE.
AND THOSE MODELS THAT ARE COMING
OUT ARE REALLY TELLING US MORE
74
00:09:06,746 --> 00:09:12,585
AND MORE THAT, IN THE ABSENCE OF
HUMANS, MOST OF THESE THINGS
WOULD NOT OCCUR TO THE SAME
DEGREE THEY'RE OCCURRING TODAY.
75
00:09:12,652 --> 00:09:17,957
>> Stahl: TIE WHAT YOU'RE SAYING
ABOUT CLIMATE TO WHAT'S GOING ON
IN FRANCE NOW.
>> Jones: SURE.
76
00:09:18,024 --> 00:09:22,528
IN-- IN-- IN FRANCE, JUST LIKE
MOST OF EUROPE, TEMPERATURES
HAVE GONE UP.
SUMMERS HAVE GOTTEN DRYER.
77
00:09:22,595 --> 00:09:28,801
AND WINE GRAPES ARE JUST
SENSITIVE.
THEY'RE SENSITIVE TO THOSE KIND
OF CHANGES, AND-- AND WE'VE BEEN
78
00:09:28,868 --> 00:09:33,806
SEEING IT WORLDWIDE.
AND EUROPE HAS BEEN AT THE
EPICENTER OF IT.
>> Stahl: THIS WEATHER MAP OF
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00:09:33,873 --> 00:09:44,250
EUROPE FOR JUNE 2021, THE
SECOND-WARMEST JUNE IN EUROPE ON
RECORD, SHOWS A RED BAND
DEPICTING HIGH SURFACE AIR
80
00:09:44,317 --> 00:09:52,925
TEMPERATURES STRETCHING ACROSS
MUCH OF THE CONTINENT.
HEAT WAVES WERE ALSO RECORDED
OVER WESTERN NORTH AMERICA IN
81
00:09:52,992 --> 00:10:01,367
JUNE 2021.
SCORCHING TEMPERATURES AND
DROUGHT CONDITIONS CONTRIBUTED
TO WILDFIRES IN 2020 AROUND NAPA
82
00:10:01,434 --> 00:10:10,643
AND SONOMA, THE CENTER OF
AMERICA'S WINE INDUSTRY, WHERE
FIELDS WERE LEFT BLACKENED.
IN AUSTRALIA, THE BUSH FIRES OF
83
00:10:10,710 --> 00:10:20,486
2019 AND '20 BURNT SOME
VINEYARDS TO THE GROUND, WHILE
SMOKE RUINED THE QUALITY OF THE
GRAPES.
84
00:10:20,553 --> 00:10:28,928
IN 2017, IN ITALY, SPRING FROST,
COMBINED WITH HAILSTORMS AND A
HEAT WAVE KNOWN AS "LUCIFER,"
LED TO THE LOWEST HARVEST IN
85
00:10:28,995 --> 00:10:36,736
DECADES.
PARTICULARLY HARD HIT WAS
NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY,
WHERE PROSECCO, BAROLO AND
86
00:10:36,802 --> 00:10:42,608
CHIANTI ARE MADE.
AND IN PARTS OF CHILE AND
ARGENTINA, HIGHER TEMPERATURES
ARE PUSHING WINE-GROWERS TO
87
00:10:42,675 --> 00:10:50,483
PLANT THEIR VINEYARDS AT HIGHER
ALTITUDES, WHERE TEMPERATURES
ARE COOLER.
GREG JONES SAYS THE WARMING
88
00:10:50,549 --> 00:10:55,621
ATMOSPHERE IS ALSO CHANGING THE
GRAPES' GROWTH CYCLE.
>> Jones: IT ACCELERATES THAT
RIPENING TO THE POINT THAT WE'RE
89
00:10:55,688 --> 00:11:03,996
PICKING EARLIER.
FOR EXAMPLE, 2020, IN BURGUNDY,
THE PICKING DATE WAS AUGUST 20.
AND PRIOR TO THAT, WE'VE BEEN
90
00:11:04,063 --> 00:11:11,404
AVERAGING FOR THE LAST 30 YEARS,
ABOUT SEPTEMBER 15.
AND THEN, FOR 600 YEARS BEFORE
THAT, WE WERE AVERAGING THE END
91
00:11:11,470 --> 00:11:15,074
OF SEPTEMBER, FIRST OF OCTOBER.
SO, YOU CAN--
>> Stahl: OH, SO IT'S DRAMATIC.
>> Jones: SO IT'S PRETTY
92
00:11:15,141 --> 00:11:24,817
DRAMATIC.
>> Stahl: THESE PAGES OF
PARCHMENT, DOCUMENTING HARVEST
DATES GOING BACK AS FAR AS 1354,
93
00:11:24,884 --> 00:11:29,088
WERE FOUND IN THE CHURCH OF
NOTRE DAME IN BURGUNDY.
1354.
>> Jones: IT'S A WONDERFUL DATA
94
00:11:29,155 --> 00:11:37,063
RECORD THAT WE'VE BEEN ABLE TO
LOOK AT TO BETTER UNDERSTAND
WHAT CLIMATES WERE LIKE BACK
THEN, HOW IT AFFECTED HARVESTS,
95
00:11:37,129 --> 00:11:40,900
AND WHAT THAT LOOKS LIKE TODAY.
>> Stahl: I'M SMILING BECAUSE
I'M THINKING, 1300s.
I'M THINKING, THE MONKS WERE
96
00:11:40,966 --> 00:11:46,405
MAKING WINE.
>> Jones: WELL, EXACTLY.
>> Stahl: THE WINE INDUSTRY IN
FRANCE IS SO VITAL TO THE
97
00:11:46,472 --> 00:11:54,713
ECONOMY THAT THE GOVERNMENT HAS
SCIENTISTS STUDYING WAYS TO
ADAPT AND MITIGATE THE CHANGING
ENVIRONMENT.
98
00:11:54,780 --> 00:12:03,055
ONE ROUTE TO ADAPTATION IS TO
INTRODUCE NEW GRAPE VARIETIES.
EXPERIMENTAL VINEYARDS HAVE BEEN
PLANTED WITH VINES FROM WARMER-
99
00:12:03,122 --> 00:12:12,298
CLIMATE COUNTRIES TO SEE IF THEY
CAN GROW HERE, SO THE GRAPES CAN
BE BLENDED IN WITH THE MERLOTS,
CABERNETS AND OTHER FRENCH
100
00:12:12,364 --> 00:12:20,039
WINES.
NATHALIE OLLAT IS THE DIRECTOR
OF THE PROJECT AT THE BORDEAUX
SCIENCE INSTITUTE OF VINE AND
101
00:12:20,106 --> 00:12:24,877
WINE.
SO, YOU'RE LOOKING AT GRAPES
THAT COME FROM SOUTHERN REGIONS
THAT MAYBE GROW BETTER IN WARMER
102
00:12:24,944 --> 00:12:30,116
CLIMATES?
>> Nathalie Ollat: YES.
>> Stahl: LIKE FROM WHERE?
>> Ollat: FROM SPAIN, FROM
103
00:12:30,182 --> 00:12:35,521
PORTUGAL, FROM GREECE.
>> Stahl: HOW MANY ARE YOU
ACTUALLY LOOKING AT?
>> Ollat: SO, IN THIS
104
00:12:35,588 --> 00:12:42,461
EXPERIMENTAL VINEYARD, WE ARE
STUDYING 52 DIFFERENT VARIETIES.
>> Stahl: THEY'VE CHOSEN SIX OF
THOSE VARIETIES THUS FAR TO BE
105
00:12:42,528 --> 00:12:50,603
PLANTED IN BORDEAUX.
SO, THIS IS YOUR GREENHOUSE?
>> Ollat: YES.
THIS-- IT IS.
106
00:12:50,669 --> 00:12:56,609
>> Stahl: A SECOND ROUTE OF
ADAPTATION IS GENETIC BREEDING.
ARE YOU ACTUALLY CREATING NEW
GRAPES; NEW, DIFFERENT KINDS OF
107
00:12:56,675 --> 00:13:05,117
GRAPES?
>> Ollat: YES.
THE IDEA IS TO HAVE GRAPES, NEW
VARIETIES WHICH CAN BE RESISTANT
108
00:13:05,184 --> 00:13:13,125
TO DISEASE AND ALSO MORE ADAPTED
TO CLIMATE CHANGE CONDITION.
>> Stahl: AND DO NOT COMPROMISE
THE DISTINCTIVE QUALITIES OF THE
109
00:13:13,192 --> 00:13:20,666
FRENCH WINES.
AT THE INSTITUTE'S LABORATORY,
SCIENTISTS ARE STUDYING THE
GENETICS OF WINE'S COLOR, AROMA
110
00:13:20,733 --> 00:13:25,437
AND TASTE.
AND THAT'S WHAT YOU'RE TRYING TO
PRESERVE EVEN AS YOU INTRODUCE
NEW GRAPES?
111
00:13:25,504 --> 00:13:30,476
>> Ollat: YES.
I THINK WE-- WE WANT TO CHANGE
WITHOUT CHANGING, I WOULD SAY.
>> Stahl: YES!
112
00:13:30,543 --> 00:13:37,483
HOW CONFIDENT ARE YOU THAT
YOU'RE GOING TO CRACK THE
PUZZLE; YOU'RE GOING TO FIGURE
OUT HOW TO STAY AHEAD OF CLIMATE
113
00:13:37,550 --> 00:13:49,662
CHANGE?
>> Ollat: ALL TOGETHER, WITH NEW
VARIETIES, NEW GROWING PRACTICE,
I THINK WE CAN-- WE CAN COPE
114
00:13:49,728 --> 00:13:56,168
WITH CLIMATE CHANGE, AT LEAST
UNTIL THE-- THE MIDDLE OF THE
21st CENTURY.
>> Stahl: THE MIDDLE OF THE
115
00:13:56,235 --> 00:13:59,872
CENTURY IS ONLY 30 YEARS FROM
NOW.
>> Ollat: YEAH, YEAH.
>> Stahl: SO, YOU'RE LOOKING AT
116
00:13:59,939 --> 00:14:08,747
HOW FAST TEMPERATURES ARE
RISING, AND YOU'RE SAYING IT'S
POSSIBLE THAT THEY WILL RISE
ABOVE A POINT WHERE YOU CAN'T...
117
00:14:08,814 --> 00:14:17,189
>> Ollat: THAT IT-- IT-- IT WILL
BE MUCH MORE COMPLICATED TO KEEP
WHAT WE CALL BORDEAUX STYLE AND
BORDEAUX TASTE.
118
00:14:17,256 --> 00:14:25,798
>> Stahl: WITH ALL THE GLOOM AND
DOOM ABOUT WARMING TEMPERATURES
IN WINE COUNTRY, THERE'S
ACTUALLY A SURPRISING UPSIDE.
119
00:14:25,864 --> 00:14:32,738
WHAT ABOUT QUALITY?
WHAT ABOUT THE TASTE?
WHAT'S IMPORTANT ABOUT WINE?
HOW IS CLIMATE CHANGE AFFECTING
120
00:14:32,805 --> 00:14:37,543
THAT?
>> Lurton: ALORS, THE CLIMATE
CHANGE IS AFFECTING THE QUALITY
VERY POSITIVELY.
121
00:14:37,610 --> 00:14:46,151
>> Stahl: POSITIVELY?
>> Lurton: YES, EX-- EXACTLY.
WE HAVE NEVER SEEN SUCH A LARGE
QUANTITY OF GOOD VINTAGES OF
122
00:14:46,218 --> 00:14:54,960
BORDEAUX WINES.
>> Stahl: WELL, EXPLAIN THAT.
THAT'S COUNTERINTUITIVE.
>> Lurton: THANKS TO THE GLOBAL
123
00:14:55,027 --> 00:15:00,299
WARMING AND THE CLIMATE CHANGE,
NOW WE HAVE WARMER SUMMERS AND
WHICH MEANS THAT OUR GRAPES ARE
RIPENING BETTER.
124
00:15:00,366 --> 00:15:08,274
IF WE GET GOOD, WARM CONDITIONS,
WE HAVE GOOD COLOR QUANTITY IN
THE-- IN THE SKIN.
BUT, AS WELL, WE HAVE THE RIGHT
125
00:15:08,340 --> 00:15:18,784
AMOUNT OF SUGAR.
>> Stahl: WHAT A PAINFUL IRONY--
THE TASTE IMPROVES JUST AS THE
YIELDS ARE SHRINKING FOR
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00:15:18,851 --> 00:15:24,223
WINEMAKERS LIKE CHRISTINE
SEVILLANO.
SO, MORE QUALITY, BUT FEWER
GRAPES.
127
00:15:24,290 --> 00:15:29,962
DRAMATICALLY FEWER GRAPES.
>> Sevillano: YES.
IT'S CRAZY.
>> Stahl: IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER
128
00:15:30,029 --> 00:15:36,502
YEAR LIKE THIS ONE, FINANCIALLY,
CAN YOU SURVIVE?
>> Sevillano: IT WILL BE
DIFFICULT.
129
00:15:36,568 --> 00:15:44,576
REALLY, REALLY DIFFICULT.
BUT AT THE SAME TIME, I'M
TRUSTFUL FOR NEXT YEAR.
I MEAN, I'M TRUSTFUL.
130
00:15:44,643 --> 00:15:51,617
I HAVE TO.
>> Stahl: IMPROVED TASTE IS NOT
THE ONLY UNFORESEEN BENEFIT OF
CLIMATE CHANGE FOR SOME
131
00:15:51,684 --> 00:15:59,191
WINEMAKERS.
HOW IT'S AFFECTING THE BUBBLY
YOU ARE LIKELY TO ENJOY AT THE
NEXT PARTY OR WEDDING YOU
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00:15:59,258 --> 00:16:12,905
ATTEND, WHEN WE RETURN.
>> Stahl: FOR SOME WINEGROWERS,
CLIMATE CHANGE HAS BEEN A
DISASTER, AS WE'VE SEEN.
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00:16:12,971 --> 00:16:20,512
BUT, AS IT TURNS OUT, CLIMATE
CHANGE HAS BEEN A BOON FOR
OTHERS.
WHILE HIGHER TEMPERATURES HAVE
134
00:16:20,579 --> 00:16:28,220
HURT GROWERS IN FRANCE AND
ITALY, PLACES THAT HISTORICALLY
HAVE BEEN TOO COLD TO PRODUCE
QUALITY WINES ARE NOW TURNING
135
00:16:28,287 --> 00:16:35,327
OUT CONSISTENTLY GOOD ONES.
FOR INSTANCE, AS WE FIRST
REPORTED IN DECEMBER, THE IDEA
THAT THERE'S NO SUCH THING AS A
136
00:16:35,394 --> 00:16:43,702
VELVETY, WELL-BALANCED, FIRST-
RATE WINE MADE IN ENGLAND IS
WOEFULLY OUTDATED.
TODAY, A NEW INDUSTRY HAS TAKEN
137
00:16:43,769 --> 00:16:50,242
ROOT.
HEALTHY VINEYARDS IN ENGLAND ARE
PRODUCING SOME OF THE WORLD'S
BEST WINES.
138
00:16:50,309 --> 00:16:58,350
THIS SPRAWLING VINEYARD WITH
ACRES AND ACRES OF WINE GRAPES
READY FOR HARVEST IS LOCATED IN
KENT, 40 MILES OUTSIDE OF
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00:16:58,417 --> 00:17:08,026
LONDON.
IT DIDN'T EXIST 15 YEARS AGO,
BUT GREAT BRITAIN'S WINE-
PRODUCING FORTUNES HAVE BEEN
140
00:17:08,093 --> 00:17:14,099
HEATING UP, ALONG WITH THE
PLANET.
SO, HOW HAS CLIMATE CHANGE
AFFECTED THE GRAPES, THE WINE,
141
00:17:14,166 --> 00:17:20,406
IN THIS REGION?
>> Stephen Skelton: WELL, IT'S
COMPLETELY REVOLUTIONIZED IT.
>> Stahl: STEPHEN SKELTON, A
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00:17:20,472 --> 00:17:26,178
MEMBER OF THE HIGHLY-RESPECTED
INSTITUTE OF MASTERS OF WINE, IS
A VITICULTURIST, AN EXPERT IN
THE SCIENCE, PRODUCTION, AND
143
00:17:26,245 --> 00:17:32,117
BUSINESS OF WINE GRAPES.
I NEVER HEARD OF REALLY GOOD
ENGLISH WINE, I HAVE TO BE
HONEST WITH YOU.
144
00:17:32,184 --> 00:17:36,688
>> Skelton: NO, IT WAS-- IT WAS
VERY, VERY RARE, UNTIL WE
REALIZED THAT YOU COULD GROW
THESE CLASSIC FRENCH CHAMPAGNE
145
00:17:36,755 --> 00:17:41,226
VARIETIES IN-- IN OUR CLIMATE.
>> Stahl: THIS IS WHAT THEY GROW
IN CHAMPAGNE?
>> Skelton: YEAH.
146
00:17:41,293 --> 00:17:49,067
AND THEY NOW GROW VERY, VERY
SUCCESSFULLY HERE IN THE U.K.
>> Stahl: WHAT USED TO BE A
MINUTE COTTAGE INDUSTRY RUN BY
147
00:17:49,134 --> 00:17:56,642
RETIREES AND GENTLEMAN FARMERS
IS TODAY ONE OF THE FASTEST
WINE-GROWING REGIONS IN THE
WORLD.
148
00:17:56,708 --> 00:18:01,180
THIS IS QUITE AN OPERATION GOING
ON.
>> Skelton: OH, IT'S BIG.
IT'S A BIG WINERY.
149
00:18:01,246 --> 00:18:08,253
>> Stahl: IN 2018, THE VINTAGE
IN ENGLAND WAS SO BOUNTIFUL THAT
SOME VINEYARDS HAD TO SCRAMBLE
TO BUY VATS AND TANKS TO HOLD IT
150
00:18:08,320 --> 00:18:17,062
ALL.
OTHERS SIMPLY THREW GRAPES AWAY.
BY THE END OF THE DECADE,
WINEMAKERS HERE WILL PRODUCE AN
151
00:18:17,129 --> 00:18:22,768
ESTIMATED 20 MILLION BOTTLES A
YEAR.
>> Skelton: THE FOUNDATION OF
TODAY'S INDUSTRY IS THE FACT
152
00:18:22,835 --> 00:18:27,639
THAT WE CAN GROW THESE
VARIETIES, WHICH WE COULDN'T
GROW EARLIER.
>> Stahl: SO, WHY COULDN'T YOU
153
00:18:27,706 --> 00:18:30,943
DO IT BEFORE?
>> Skelton: BECAUSE THE-- THE
CLIMATE WAS TOO COLD.
>> Stahl: YOU JUST HAD TO GET
154
00:18:31,009 --> 00:18:36,782
THE TEMPERATURE UP AND--
>> Skelton: YEAH.
>> Stahl: SO, DOES GLOBAL
WARMING MEAN THAT ENGLAND NOW
155
00:18:36,849 --> 00:18:41,954
HAS MORE DAYS FOR THE GRAPES TO
RIPEN?
IS THAT--
>> Skelton: YEAH, BECAUSE WE
156
00:18:42,020 --> 00:18:46,792
HAVE MORE DAYS OVER 85, 86
DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
WE ARE-- WE ARE IN THE U.K. NOW.
WE'RE NOW WHERE CHAMPAGNE WAS 30
157
00:18:46,859 --> 00:18:54,066
OR 40 YEARS AGO.
THE CLIMATE HAS SHIFTED IN 30 OR
40 YEARS UPWARDS; NORTH.
NORTHWARDS.
158
00:18:54,132 --> 00:19:01,406
>> Stahl: SO, THE CLIMATE, RIGHT
NOW, WHERE YOU AND I ARE SITTING
IN ENGLAND, IS THE SAME AS THE
CLIMATE WAS 40 YEARS AGO IN
159
00:19:01,473 --> 00:19:04,376
FRANCE.
>> Skelton: IN CHAMPAGNE.
>> Stahl: IN CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE.
>> Skelton: IN CHAMPAGNE.
160
00:19:04,443 --> 00:19:10,849
YEAH.
>> Stahl: HE TRACES THE BIRTH OF
THE INDUSTRY HERE TO 1988.
>> Skelton: THEN THERE CAME TWO
161
00:19:10,916 --> 00:19:16,788
AMERICANS, THE MOSSES-- STUART
AND SANDY MOSS.
THEY BOUGHT AN ESTATE CALLED
NYETIMBER, WHICH IS VERY
162
00:19:16,855 --> 00:19:21,627
WELL-KNOWN TODAY, AND THEY WERE
THE FIRST PEOPLE TO PLANT A BIG,
COMMERCIAL VINEYARD.
>> Stahl: WHAT DID YOU THINK?
163
00:19:21,693 --> 00:19:24,596
>> Skelton: I THOUGHT THEY WERE
BONKERS.
I HAVE TO SAY.
>> Stahl: OKAY.
164
00:19:24,663 --> 00:19:31,837
>> Skelton: YEAH, I THOUGHT THEY
WERE NUTS.
I HEARD THEY WERE RICH AMERICANS
UP IN THE HILLS.
165
00:19:31,904 --> 00:19:36,808
AND HE HAD A FORTUNE FROM,
APPARENTLY, DENTAL.
THE DENTAL BUSINESS.
AND I THOUGHT THEY WERE MAD.
166
00:19:36,875 --> 00:19:43,148
THEIR FIRST WINE TOOK-- TOOK A
LONG WHILE TO MATURE.
IT WAS FOUR YEARS IN THE MAKING
BEFORE IT WAS TASTED.
167
00:19:43,215 --> 00:19:46,818
AND THEN IT WON THIS MAJOR
PRIZE.
>> Stahl: RIGHT AWAY?
FOUR YEARS.
168
00:19:46,885 --> 00:19:51,657
>> Skelton: YEAH, YEAH.
AND THE NEXT YEAR, THE SECOND
YEAR, THEY WON AN EVEN BIGGER
PRIZE.
169
00:19:51,723 --> 00:19:58,764
>> Stahl: ARE YOU THINKING THAT
IN A COUPLE OF YEARS, THE
ENGLISH SPARKLING WINE WILL BE
ACTUALLY BETTER THAN WHAT
170
00:19:58,830 --> 00:20:03,802
THEY'RE GROWING IN CHAMPAGNE?
>> Skelton: THEY PRODUCE 300
MILLION BOTTLES A YEAR.
THE BEST IS STILL VERY, VERY
171
00:20:03,869 --> 00:20:10,409
GOOD.
THE BEST IS SUPERB.
BUT YOU COULD LINE UP THE BEST
TEN ENGLISH SPARKLING WINES
172
00:20:10,475 --> 00:20:15,080
AGAINST THE BEST TEN CHAMPAGNES
IN THE SAME SORT OF PRIZE
CATEGORY; I CAN GUARANTEE YOU
THE ENGLISH WINES WOULD BE--
173
00:20:15,147 --> 00:20:23,188
WOULD BE IN THE TOP HALF.
>> Stahl: TO PROVE HIS POINT, HE
GAVE US A TASTE, OPENING A TEN-
YEAR-OLD BOTTLE.
174
00:20:23,255 --> 00:20:27,459
>> Skelton: WE'RE GOING TO OPEN
IT... PROFESSIONALLY.
>> Stahl: OH, NO POP!
>> Skelton: NO POP.
175
00:20:27,526 --> 00:20:32,798
>> Stahl: LOOK AT THAT!
THE LONGER SPARKLING WINE AGES,
HE SAYS, THE BETTER.
AND WHAT YOU LOOK FOR IS THE
176
00:20:32,864 --> 00:20:39,404
SPRITZ OF FIZZ ON THE PALETTE.
>> Skelton: YOU SEE, YOU'VE GOT
THE BUBBLES COMING FROM THERE.
>> Stahl: AND THAT'S A GOOD
177
00:20:39,471 --> 00:20:43,075
THING.
>> Skelton: YEAH.
YOU SEE, THEY'RE NICE AND SMALL.
AND THEN, YOU NOSE IT.
178
00:20:43,141 --> 00:20:47,012
YOU GET A NICE, YEASTY
CHARACTER.
BAKING BREAD-- BRIOCHE, AS WE
CALL IT.
179
00:20:47,079 --> 00:20:55,454
AND THAT'S A GORGEOUS, GORGEOUS
BOTTLE OF WINE.
>> Stahl: WINSTON CHURCHILL ONCE
SAID, "I COULD NOT LIVE WITHOUT
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00:20:55,520 --> 00:21:03,261
CHAMPAGNE.
IN VICTORY, I DESERVE IT; IN
DEFEAT, I NEED IT!"
WELL, NOTHING WOULD HAVE PLEASED
181
00:21:03,328 --> 00:21:11,136
HIM MORE THAN TO HEAR THAT
BECAUSE ENGLISH BUBBLY IS NOW SO
GOOD, THE HOUSE OF TAITTINGER--
ONE OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS OF
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00:21:11,203 --> 00:21:20,912
FRENCH CHAMPAGNE MAKERS-- IS IN
ENGLAND!
IT'S NOW GROWING 120 ACRES OF
GRAPES AND IS MAKING SPARKLING
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00:21:20,979 --> 00:21:25,884
WINE NEAR CANTERBURY, IN WHAT'S
KNOWN AS "THE GARDEN OF
ENGLAND."
PATRICK McGRATH, WHO REPRESENTS
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00:21:25,951 --> 00:21:34,459
TAITTINGER IN GREAT BRITAIN,
PERSUADED THE COMPANY TO INVEST
HERE IN 2015.
HAVE YOU BROUGHT THE GRAPES FROM
185
00:21:34,526 --> 00:21:41,166
FRANCE?
>> Patrick McGrath: YEAH.
THE-- THE VINES WERE IMPORTED
FROM FRANCE AS-- AS TINY, LITTLE
186
00:21:41,233 --> 00:21:47,139
VINES, AND THE FIRST CROP WE HAD
FROM THEM WAS IN 2020.
AND THEN, THAT WINE WILL BE
RELEASED AT THE END OF 2024.
187
00:21:47,205 --> 00:21:56,248
>> Stahl: YOU KNOW, IN-- IN
FRANCE, PART OF THE PROBLEM IS
NOT JUST WARMING; IT'S EXTREME
WEATHER CONDITIONS.
188
00:21:56,314 --> 00:22:01,687
YOU KNOW, TOO MUCH FLOODING, TOO
MUCH FROST, TOO HOT.
WON'T ENGLAND ALSO HAVE EXTREME
SITUATIONS LIKE THAT?
189
00:22:01,753 --> 00:22:09,494
>> McGrath: NOT AT THE MOMENT.
WE'RE FORTUNATE, YOU KNOW.
ENGLAND IS COMING ONTO THE RADAR
AS BEING AN AREA THAT IS
190
00:22:09,561 --> 00:22:16,568
WARMING, BUT IS STILL MODERATE
IN TERMS OF HEAT, COMPARED TO
SOUTH AND CENTRAL EUROPE, WHERE
IT'S BECOMING VERY, VERY HOT.
191
00:22:16,635 --> 00:22:26,545
>> Stahl: DO YOU THINK THAT WINE
LOVERS AROUND THE WORLD ALREADY
KNOW THAT GREAT WINES ARE COMING
OUT OF ENGLAND?
192
00:22:26,611 --> 00:22:32,718
IN OTHER WORDS-- IS IT "OOH, LA
LA" NO MORE?
IT'S "JOLLY GOOD"?
>> McGrath: I THINK-- I THINK
193
00:22:32,784 --> 00:22:41,159
IN-- WE'RE STILL AT THE, SORT
OF-- IN THE STARTING BLOCK.
BUT, CERTAINLY, YES.
OVER THE LAST TEN YEARS THE--
194
00:22:41,226 --> 00:22:48,967
FROM A SMALL BASE, THE SALES OF
ENGLISH HAVE BEEN GROWING
SUBSTANTIALLY.
>> Stahl: TAITTINGER'S AIM IS TO
195
00:22:49,034 --> 00:22:57,008
PRODUCE 300,000 BOTTLES A YEAR
BY 2025.
OVERALL, THE ENGLISH WINE
INDUSTRY HAD $220 MILLION IN
196
00:22:57,075 --> 00:23:04,349
SALES IN 2020.
THE IDEA OF FIRST-RATE ENGLISH
WINE WOULD HAVE BEEN LAUGHED AT
20 YEARS AGO, BUT A SIMILAR
197
00:23:04,416 --> 00:23:14,259
MIGRATION HAS HAPPENED ON THE
WEST COAST OF THE UNITED STATES,
WHERE EXCELLENT AND INCREASINGLY
POPULAR PINOT AND CHARDONNAY
198
00:23:14,326 --> 00:23:21,566
GRAPES ARE NOW FOUND 560 MILES
NORTH OF NAPA, IN WILLAMETTE
VALLEY, OREGON.
>> Greg Jones: IN THE 1950s AND
199
00:23:21,633 --> 00:23:27,906
'60s, THERE WERE REALLY ALMOST
NO GRAPES GROWN IN OREGON.
AND THAT WAS BECAUSE THE
CLIMATES WERE TOO COLD.
200
00:23:27,973 --> 00:23:33,478
AND SO, IF YOU FAST FORWARD TO
WHERE WE ARE TODAY, WE'RE JUST
IN A DIFFERENT WORLD.
>> Stahl: GREG JONES, A WINE
201
00:23:33,545 --> 00:23:41,920
CLIMATOLOGIST AT SOUTHERN OREGON
UNIVERSITY, SAYS GRAPES ARE NOW
GROWING IN EVEN MORE UNEXPECTED
PLACES.
202
00:23:41,987 --> 00:23:48,059
>> Jones: WE HAVE WINERIES TODAY
IN NORWAY, IN QUEBEC, IN-- IN
BRITISH COLUMBIA, IN TASMANIA,
IN-- IN THE SOUTH ISLANDS OF--
203
00:23:48,126 --> 00:23:52,297
OF CHILE.
>> Stahl: TASMANIAN WINE.
>> Jones: YEAH, TASMANIA'S
REALLY BEEN BURGEONING AS REALLY
204
00:23:52,364 --> 00:23:58,603
A GREAT WINE-PRODUCING REGION IN
AUSTRALIA.
>> Stahl: OH, WELL, THAT'S
INTERESTING.
205
00:23:58,670 --> 00:24:06,111
TASMANIA IS SOUTH OF AUSTRALIA.
>> Jones: SURE.
>> Stahl: SO, AS WINEMAKING GOES
NORTH IN THE NORTHERN
206
00:24:06,178 --> 00:24:08,747
HEMISPHERE, ARE YOU SAYING IT'S
GOING SOUTH...
>> Jones: SOUTH.
YES, YEAH.
207
00:24:08,814 --> 00:24:13,084
>> Stahl: ...IN THE SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE?
>> Jones: YEAH.
IT'S GOING FURTHER POLEWARD IN
208
00:24:13,151 --> 00:24:19,758
BOTH HEMISPHERES.
IN PARTS OF SOUTHERN ARGENTINA
AND CHILE, AND-- AND PARTS OF--
MANY PARTS OF NORTHERN EUROPE
209
00:24:19,825 --> 00:24:28,066
HAVE STARTED GROWING GRAPES.
>> Stahl: IN REAL TIME.
>> Jones: IN REAL TIME.
>> Stahl: SO, IF YOU REALLY WANT
210
00:24:28,133 --> 00:24:33,338
A VERY VIVID "NOW" EXAMPLE OF
WHAT'S HAPPENING DUE TO CLIMATE
CHANGE, GO LOOK AT WINE.
>> Jones: YEAH, YOU CAN.
211
00:24:33,405 --> 00:24:41,213
PEOPLE ARE EXPERIMENTING AT-- AT
NORTHERLY LATITUDES, THAT-- I'M
AMAZED THAT IN MY CAREER I
DIDN'T THINK I WOULD SEE IT.
212
00:24:41,279 --> 00:24:47,085
>> Stahl: IN THE UNITED KINGDOM,
AS A MEASURE OF ITS ACCEPTANCE,
ENGLISH SPARKLING WINE HAS HAD
THE ROYAL IMPRIMATUR, THE QUEEN
213
00:24:47,152 --> 00:24:57,128
SERVING IT AT BUCKINGHAM PALACE.
AND IT WAS POURED AT THE RECENT
CLIMATE CHANGE SUMMIT IN
SCOTLAND.
214
00:24:57,195 --> 00:25:04,369
MASTER OF WINE STEPHEN SKELTON
IS BULLISH ON THE FUTURE.
IF GLOBAL WARMING IS
INTENSIFYING, HOW WORRIED ARE
215
00:25:04,436 --> 00:25:11,142
YOU AND THE OTHER ENGLISH
VINTNERS THAT IT'S GOING TO MOVE
NORTH BEYOND YOUR ABILITY TO
GROW GOOD GRAPES?
216
00:25:11,209 --> 00:25:14,713
>> Stephen Skelton: NO, I'M NOT
WORRIED AT ALL.
I MEAN, THE NEXT 40 YEARS IS
GOING TO BE FASCINATING, I
217
00:25:14,779 --> 00:25:19,050
THINK.
BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, WE'RE JUST ON
THE CUSP OF IT BEING REALLY
COMMERCIAL.
218
00:25:19,117 --> 00:25:23,321
OUR YIELD LEVELS ARE NOT QUITE
WHERE WE WANT THEM YET.
YOU KNOW, WE WOULD LIKE A LITTLE
BIT MORE HEAT.
219
00:25:23,388 --> 00:25:30,028
>> Stahl: YOU MIGHT GET IT.
>> Skelton: YEAH.
>> Stahl: BUT EVENTUALLY...
>> Skelton: WHO KNOWS?
220
00:25:30,095 --> 00:25:34,199
WE'LL HAVE TO START GROWING
ORANGES AND BANANAS.
>> Stahl: I MEAN, IT'S A SERIOUS
QUESTION.
221
00:25:34,266 --> 00:25:40,739
>> Skelton: YEAH.
PERSONALLY, I THINK WE WILL COPE
WITH-- WITH WHAT'S BEING THROWN
AT US.
222
00:25:40,805 --> 00:25:46,945
>> Stahl: SOME OF THE WINEMAKERS
WE MET ARE BENEFITING, SOME ARE
SUFFERING, BUT ALL ARE SEEING
FIRST-HAND THE MESSAGE THAT
223
00:25:47,012 --> 00:25:53,118
CLIMATE CHANGE IS DELIVERING.
>> Jones: WINE GRAPES HAVE OFTEN
BEEN CALLED THE CANARY IN THE
COAL MINE.
224
00:25:53,184 --> 00:26:00,825
>> Stahl: CLIMATOLOGIST GREG
JONES SAYS THAT'S BEEN TRUE
SINCE THE FIRST WINE WAS MADE IN
6000 B.C. IN EASTERN EUROPE, AND
225
00:26:00,892 --> 00:26:06,264
THEN SPREAD TO ANCIENT EGYPT,
GREECE, AND PERSIA.
KINGS CELEBRATED THEIR VICTORIES
WITH WINE, AND THE CHRISTIAN
226
00:26:06,331 --> 00:26:16,441
WORLD PUT IT AT THE HEART OF THE
EUCHARIST.
WINE HISTORY, JONES SAYS, IS
HUMAN HISTORY.
227
00:26:16,508 --> 00:26:21,613
>> Jones: WINE TOUCHES SOCIETY
IN SOME PRETTY POWERFUL WAYS.
IT'S RELATED TO CIVILIZATIONS.
IT'S RELATED TO HISTORY.
228
00:26:21,680 --> 00:26:27,485
IT'S RELATED TO GEOGRAPHY.
IT'S RELATED TO ROMANTICISM,
ART, GASTRONOMY, BIOLOGY,
CHEMISTRY.
229
00:26:27,552 --> 00:26:35,260
SO, THERE'S SO MANY THINGS THAT
ARE TIED TO IT THAT IT BECOMES
SOMETHING THAT WE CAN-- WE CAN
TELL THE STORY OF CLIMATE CHANGE
230
00:26:35,327 --> 00:26:39,764
THROUGH WINE PRETTY EASILY.
( TICKING )
231
00:26:41,766 --> 00:26:49,240
>> FROM THE "60 MINUTES"
ARCHIVE: HOW CLIMATE CHANGE
IS RESHAPING MANY FACETS OF OUR
WORLD.
232
00:26:49,307 --> 00:26:57,449
GO TO 60minutesovertime.com.
( TICKING )
233
00:26:59,851 --> 00:27:07,392
>> Stahl: WE WERE NEARING LAST
CALL ON THE GRANDEST OF BRITISH
INSTITUTIONS: THE PUB.
AFTER ENDURING FOR HUNDREDS OF
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00:27:07,459 --> 00:27:15,300
YEARS AS CENTERS FOR SCHMOOZING
AND BOOZING, PUBS WERE GOING THE
WAY OF MORNING NEWSPAPERS,
AFTERNOON TEA, AND THE WHOLE
235
00:27:15,367 --> 00:27:26,578
IDEA OF EMPIRE.
A RANGE OF FACTORS UNDERCUT THE
KIND OF NEIGHBORHOOD JOINT WHERE
EVERYONE KNOWS YOUR NAME.
236
00:27:26,644 --> 00:27:33,385
THEN CAME COVID, WHICH KEPT MOST
BRITISH PUBS CLOSED FOR MORE
THAN A YEAR.
BUT LAST SUMMER, THE U.K.
237
00:27:33,451 --> 00:27:42,394
REOPENED, AND-- NOT UNLIKE AN
OVER-SERVED PATRON-- THE PUB
STORY STARTED TO STAGGER AND
LURCH IN AN UNEXPECTED
238
00:27:42,460 --> 00:27:50,435
DIRECTION.
AND, AS JON WERTHEIM FIRST
REPORTED IN OCTOBER, MAYBE IT'S
NOT QUITE CLOSING TIME AFTER
239
00:27:50,502 --> 00:27:56,641
ALL.
>> Jon Wertheirm: 1,200-PLUS
YEARS OLD?
A MAN WALKS INTO A PUB.
240
00:27:56,708 --> 00:28:05,450
OF COURSE HE DOES.
IN THIS CASE, IT'S A VERY OLD
PUB, YE OLDE FIGHTING COCKS, IN
ST. ALBANS OUTSIDE LONDON.
241
00:28:05,517 --> 00:28:11,189
ITS LANDLORD, OR PUBLICAN, IS
CHRISTO TOFALLI.
SO YOUR PUB IS ONE OF DOZENS IN
THIS COUNTRY THAT CLAIMS TO BE
242
00:28:11,256 --> 00:28:14,759
THE OLDEST EVER?
>> Christo Tofalli: YOU'RE
ABSOLUTELY RIGHT.
>> Wertheirm: MAKE-- MAKE YOUR
243
00:28:14,826 --> 00:28:17,929
CASE.
MAKE YOUR CASE.
>> Tofalli: IT TURNS OUT THERE'S
A BIT OF A MISCONCEPTION, WHICH
244
00:28:17,996 --> 00:28:23,401
ONE'S THE OLDEST AND WHAT THE
OLDEST PUB IS.
SO, WE'RE THE OLDEST PUB.
THE FIRST BRICK WAS LAID IN 793,
245
00:28:23,468 --> 00:28:28,540
AND THE OLDEST INHABITED
BUILDING IN EUROPE.
VIKINGS INVADED ENGLAND IN THE
SAME YEAR THE FIRST BRICK WAS
246
00:28:28,606 --> 00:28:34,479
LAID, IN 793.
>> Wertheirm: I SUSPECT VIKINGS
WOULD LIKE THIS PLACE.
>> Tofalli: THEY WOULD LOVE THIS
247
00:28:34,546 --> 00:28:39,317
PLACE.
>> Wertheirm: BEFORE WE GO
FURTHER, LET'S DEFINE OUR TERMS:
WE'RE NOT TALKING ABOUT MERE
248
00:28:39,384 --> 00:28:46,591
BARS, OR FOR THE LOVE OF GOD,
SPORTS BARS.
THESE ARE PUBS, SHORT FOR PUBLIC
HOUSES.
249
00:28:46,658 --> 00:28:54,532
THEY EXIST AS MUCH FOR
CONVIVIALITY AS FOR WHAT'S ON
TAP: COLD LAGER, AND TO THE
SHOCK OF FIRST-TIMERS, WARM ALE.
250
00:28:54,599 --> 00:29:02,373
THEY'VE BEEN CORNERSTONES OF THE
CULTURE HERE FOR CENTURIES.
THE WRITER/COMEDIAN AL MURRAY
BELIEVES THE VALUE PROPOSITION
251
00:29:02,440 --> 00:29:07,145
GOES WELL BEYOND BEER.
>> Al Murray: IT'S A COMMUNITY
PLACE.
IT'S A COMMUNITARIAN PLACE, IN A
252
00:29:07,212 --> 00:29:10,615
WAY THAT SITTING IN YOUR FRONT
ROOM WATCHING TELEVISION JUST
ISN'T.
>> Wertheirm: WHAT IS IT ABOUT
253
00:29:10,682 --> 00:29:15,954
THIS CULTURE THAT HAS SUCH
APPEAL TO YOU?
>> Murray: TO SOUND SORT OF
IDEALISTIC ABOUT IT, PRINCES AND
254
00:29:16,020 --> 00:29:22,694
PAUPERS ARE EQUALLY WELCOME IN
HERE.
AND GIVEN THAT BRITAIN IS SUCH A
CLASS-RIDDEN SOCIETY, THERE ARE
255
00:29:22,760 --> 00:29:28,032
VERY FEW PLACES WHERE, YOU KNOW,
YOU STAND AT THE BAR AND YOUR--
YOUR MONEY'S AS GOOD AS ANYONE
ELSE'S.
256
00:29:28,099 --> 00:29:31,970
>> Wertheirm: YOU SOUND LIKE A
PUB ROMANTIC.
>> Murray: I AM COMPLETELY
ROMANTIC ABOUT THE IDEA OF PUBS.
257
00:29:32,036 --> 00:29:35,840
>> Wertheirm: WHY?
>> Murray: THERE IS SOMETHING
GENUINELY BEAUTIFUL ABOUT THE
IDEA OF SOMEWHERE WHERE ANYONE
258
00:29:35,907 --> 00:29:44,082
CAN GO AT ANY TIME AND SIT IN
THE CORNER, WITH-- WITH THEIR
OWN THOUGHTS AND A DRINK, AND
IT'S A BEAUTIFUL NOTION.
259
00:29:44,149 --> 00:29:50,889
>> Wertheirm: YOU DON'T GO TO
TURNER'S OLD STAR FOR QUIET
CONTEMPLATION.
ONE OF THE LAST OF THE SO-CALLED
260
00:29:50,955 --> 00:29:56,728
BOOZERS IN LONDON'S EAST END,
IT'S THE HEARTBEAT OF THE
PROUDLY WORKING-CLASS COMMUNITY
HERE.
261
00:29:56,794 --> 00:30:01,799
PUT IN A DAY OF WORK-- YOU WORK
HARD, YOU COME IN, AND THEN
YOU... ?
>> Pub Patron: YEAH, ABSOLUTELY.
262
00:30:01,866 --> 00:30:07,572
YOU WORK HARD ALL DAY AND THEN
YOU, KIND OF LIKE-- IT'S JUST
LIKE HAVING A MENTAL SHOWER
AFTER A HARD DAY'S WORK.
263
00:30:07,639 --> 00:30:12,076
KIND OF WIND DOWN.
IT'S LIKE A REAL-LIFE "CHEERS,"
I GUESS, YOU KNOW?
>> Pub Patron: THEY MAKE YOU
264
00:30:12,143 --> 00:30:16,714
FEEL WELCOME.
THEY MAKE YOU FEEL WELCOME.
YOU'RE FAMILY.
YOU'RE FAMILY.
265
00:30:16,781 --> 00:30:20,752
>> Wertheirm: PAUL AND BERNICE
DREW HAVE RUN THE OLD STAR FOR
17 YEARS.
THEY MET ACROSS THE STREET.
266
00:30:20,818 --> 00:30:29,160
GOT ENGAGED HERE.
THEY LIVE UPSTAIRS.
THE PUB IS THEIR LIVING ROOM,
THE REGULARS, THEIR OLDEST
267
00:30:29,227 --> 00:30:32,297
FRIENDS.
WHEN YOU SAY "REGULARS," THOUGH,
THESE ARE REALLY REGULARS.
>> Paul Drew: OH YEAH, EVERYDAY.
268
00:30:32,363 --> 00:30:36,601
>> Bernice Drew: EVERYBODY.
EVERYONE FROM NAUGHT TO 90
ENJOYS THEMSELVES.
THERE'S A CORE OF PEOPLE, I
269
00:30:36,668 --> 00:30:43,841
SUPPOSE TEN, 15 PEOPLE, THAT
COME IN EVERY DAY REGARDLESS.
WINTER, SUMMER, WHENEVER.
>> Paul Drew: THEY ALL COME,
270
00:30:43,908 --> 00:30:49,214
HAVE THEIR COUPLE OF BEERS, HAVE
A LAUGH.
CHEW THE WAG, AS THEY SAY.
AND, YOU KNOW, SLAG EVERYONE
271
00:30:49,280 --> 00:30:51,883
OFF.
( LAUGHS )
THEY'RE ALWAYS HAVING A GO AT
EACH OTHER.
272
00:30:51,950 --> 00:30:55,520
( LAUGHTER )
>> Wertheirm: I HEAR YOU SAY
WITH A REAL PRIDE, "THIS IS A
PROPER PUB."
273
00:30:55,587 --> 00:30:59,123
>> Paul Drew: IT IS.
IT'S MY PUB PUB.
IT'S WHAT WE CALL IT, DON'T WE?
>> Bernice Drew: NO, IT'S A PUB
274
00:30:59,190 --> 00:31:02,627
PUB.
>> Paul Drew: WE CALL IT OUR PUB
PUB.
>> Wertheirm: FOR CENTURIES,
275
00:31:02,694 --> 00:31:11,202
PUBS HAVE BEEN AS MUCH SALON AS
SALOON, AS THEY'VE TAKEN A STOOL
AND WATCHED HISTORY AND MYTH
UNFOLD.
276
00:31:11,269 --> 00:31:17,875
IN LONDON'S SOHO, THE FRENCH
HOUSE WAS WHERE BOHEMIANS WOULD
RUB SHOULDERS WITH RESISTANCE
LEADERS.
277
00:31:17,942 --> 00:31:24,782
AFTER PARIS FELL TO THE NAZIS IN
1940, CHARLES DE GAULLE, IN
EXILE, IS SAID TO HAVE WRITTEN
HIS FAMOUS SPEECH TO THE FRENCH
278
00:31:24,849 --> 00:31:33,791
FREE FORCES HERE.
A LITTLE FURTHER EAST ON THE
RIVER THAMES, LEGEND HAS IT THAT
THE 17th CENTURY JUDGE JEFFREYS
279
00:31:33,858 --> 00:31:41,266
WOULD WATCH THOSE HE SENTENCED
HANG, AS HE LUNCHED AND SIPPED
ALE AT THE PROSPECT OF WHITBY.
AND THEN THERE'S THE CHOLERA
280
00:31:41,332 --> 00:31:47,839
EPIDEMIC THAT GRIPPED LONDON IN
1854, KILLING 550 PEOPLE IN TWO
WEEKS.
A LOCAL DOCTOR, JOHN SNOW,
281
00:31:47,905 --> 00:31:56,214
FIGURED OUT THE PROBLEM:
CONTAMINATED WATER FROM A WELL
WAS SPREADING THE DISEASE, AND
SIMPLY REMOVING THE HANDLE FROM
282
00:31:56,281 --> 00:32:04,055
THE PUMP EFFECTIVELY ENDED THE
EPIDEMIC.
JOHN SNOW WASN'T KNIGHTED, BUT
HE DID RECEIVE WHAT MIGHT BE THE
283
00:32:04,122 --> 00:32:13,665
NEXT-HIGHEST BRITISH HONOR--
CHRISTENING A PUB AFTER SOMEONE
IS AN EXCEPTION.
MANY PUB NAMES READ LIKE DRUNKEN
284
00:32:13,731 --> 00:32:19,270
"MAD LIBS:" RANDOM ADJECTIVE
PLUS RANDOM NOUN, OFTEN AN
ANIMAL.
THE APE AND APPLE.
285
00:32:19,337 --> 00:32:24,175
THE SNOOTY FOX.
THE DRUNKEN DUCK.
THE BLACK DOG.
FOR PETE BROWN, BRITAIN'S
286
00:32:24,242 --> 00:32:32,884
LEADING WRITER ON BEER AND PUBS,
THESE NAMES OFFER A CLUE TO
EVERY ESTABLISHMENT'S STORY.
WHAT'S GOING ON HERE?
287
00:32:32,950 --> 00:32:37,388
>> Pete Brown: IT'S BECOME ONE
OF THE QUIRKY ASPECTS OF THE
BRITISH PUB.
BUT IT-- IT STARTS OFF IN A VERY
288
00:32:37,455 --> 00:32:43,294
PRACTICAL WAY, WHICH IS THAT
MOST OF THE POPULATION WHO WENT
TO PUBS UNTIL RECENTLY WERE
ILLITERATE.
289
00:32:43,361 --> 00:32:47,699
SO, YOU COULDN'T PUT A NAME SIGN
UP.
YOU HAD TO HAVE A PICTORIAL
SIGN.
290
00:32:47,765 --> 00:32:51,736
SO YOU-- YOU'D PICK A PICT--
YOU'D PICK A PICTURE OF
SOMETHING THAT HAD SOME
RESONANCE WITH PEOPLE.
291
00:32:51,803 --> 00:32:57,175
BUT THEN, SOME OF THE ONES THAT
YOU JUST MENTIONED, I THINK,
IT'S KIND OF THE PUB SELF-
SATIRIZING ITSELF.
292
00:32:57,241 --> 00:33:03,614
>> Wertheirm: AND IT'S NOT JUST
PUB NAMES THAT VEER TOWARD THE
COLORFUL AND ECCENTRIC.
JUST BEHIND LONDON'S LAW COURTS,
293
00:33:03,681 --> 00:33:12,090
AND THEN BEHIND THE BAR, YOU'LL
FIND THE OWNER, CHEF, AND STAR
PERFORMER OF THE SEVEN STARS
PUB, THE TALENTED MRS. ROXY
294
00:33:12,156 --> 00:33:17,995
BEAUJOLAIS.
YOUR HUSBAND IS AMERICAN.
>> Roxy Beaujolais: YES.
>> Wertheirm: HOW DO YOU EXPLAIN
295
00:33:18,062 --> 00:33:21,432
WHAT YOU DO TO-- TO HIS FAMILY?
>> Beaujolais: WELL, WHEN I WAS
FIRST INTRODUCED TO THEM, ABOUT
30 YEARS AGO, HIS MOTHER ASKED
296
00:33:21,499 --> 00:33:30,541
ME WHAT I DID.
AND I SAID, "I'M A PUBLICAN."
SHE SAID, "WHAT?"
AND MY HUSBAND DOVE IN AND SAID,
297
00:33:30,608 --> 00:33:35,246
"NO, NO, NO, NO, NO, MAMA.
N-- NOT A REPUBLICAN!
( LAUGHS )
A PUBLICAN-- A TAVERN KEEPER."
298
00:33:35,313 --> 00:33:41,686
>> Wertheirm: SO WHAT-- WHAT IS
IT ABOUT THIS JOB THAT CLEARLY
FEEDS SOMETHING IN YOU?
>> Beaujolais: I'M GOOD AT IT,
299
00:33:41,753 --> 00:33:45,490
DARLING.
( LAUGHTER )
I'M GOOD AT IT.
YOU KNOW, I COOK, I-- YOU KNOW,
300
00:33:45,556 --> 00:33:53,998
I HAVE A PASSING INTEREST IN THE
PRODUCT THAT I SELL, MYSELF.
YOU KNOW, I LOVE IT.
>> Wertheirm: FOR THE LAST 25
301
00:33:54,065 --> 00:33:58,770
YEARS, COMEDIAN AL MURRAY HAS
LOVED PLAYING THE FIGURE BEHIND
THE BAR.
HIS ALTER EGO ON STAGES?
302
00:33:58,836 --> 00:34:05,610
A HEAD-SHAVED, OVER-OPINIONATED
BLOWHARD HE CALLS "THE PUB
LANDLORD."
>> Pub Landlord: WE'RE SENSIBLE
303
00:34:05,676 --> 00:34:11,616
PEOPLE IN THIS COUNTRY, AREN'T
WE?
DOWN TO EARTH PEOPLE.
WE NEVER PUT A MAN ON THE MOON.
304
00:34:11,682 --> 00:34:16,120
NAH, THE MOON WAS NEVER GOING TO
BE PART OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE,
WAS IT?
NAH.
305
00:34:16,187 --> 00:34:21,426
THERE'S NO ONE TO GIVE IT BACK
TO, ONCE WERE DONE WITH IT, WAS
THERE?
>> Wertheirm: WHAT IS IT ABOUT
306
00:34:21,492 --> 00:34:27,031
THAT ARCHETYPE?
>> Murray: HE'S A KNOW-ALL WHO
KNOWS NOTHING.
IT'S-- IT'S A GUY WHO HAS POWER
307
00:34:27,098 --> 00:34:31,836
BUT NO AUTHORITY.
IT'S A GUY WHO IS-- IS WRITING
INTELLECTUAL CHECKS HE CAN'T
POSSIBLY CASH.
308
00:34:31,903 --> 00:34:38,409
>> Wertheirm: A MILE-- MILE
WIDE, INCH DEEP.
>> Murray: IT'S THE WHOLE SWIRL
OF WHAT HAPPENS IN A PUB.
309
00:34:38,476 --> 00:34:43,915
THE PUBLICAN IS THE CONDUIT, THE
CONFESSOR, THE-- THE SORT OF,
YOU KNOW, HIGH PRIEST, IN-- IN A
SPACE LIKE THIS.
310
00:34:43,981 --> 00:34:52,924
SO, ALL GOES THROUGH HIM.
>> Wertheirm: IT'S ALL GOOD FUN,
BUT AS HIS CHARACTER SUGGESTS,
PUB CULTURE IS, IF NOT ERODING,
311
00:34:52,990 --> 00:35:00,198
UNDERGOING CONSIDERABLE CHANGE.
FOR GENERATIONS, THE NUMBER OF
BRITISH PUBS HAS BEEN DECLINING.
FROM 65,000 TO FEWER THAN 50,000
312
00:35:00,264 --> 00:35:11,108
IN THE LAST 25 YEARS.
THE CAUSES OF DEATH ARE MANY:
HIGH BEER DUTY, A SMOKING BAN,
CHEAP SUPERMARKET LAGER, PEOPLE
313
00:35:11,175 --> 00:35:17,482
DRINKING LESS.
PERHAPS THE BIGGEST CULPRITS?
VENTURE CAPITALISTS AND
DEVELOPERS MORE INTERESTED IN A
314
00:35:17,548 --> 00:35:24,388
PUB'S REAL ESTATE THAN WHAT'S ON
TAP.
AND THEN, IN MARCH 2020 CAME THE
HAMMER BLOW-- COVID-19.
315
00:35:24,455 --> 00:35:31,462
WHAT WAS IT LIKE WHEN THIS
CLOSED FOR THE FIRST TIME?
>> Tofalli: SOUL-DESTROYING.
I MEAN, IN BUSINESS TERMS--
316
00:35:31,529 --> 00:35:40,171
LETHAL.
I STILL HAVEN'T GOT ANY WORDS
FOR IT, JON.
IT-- IT-- IT-- WE HAVE A PASSION
317
00:35:40,238 --> 00:35:45,176
TO OPEN THE DOOR EVERY SINGLE
DAY.
>> Wertheirm: THIS-- THIS WASN'T
JUST, CHANGE THE SIGN ON THE
318
00:35:45,243 --> 00:35:51,816
DOOR?
THIS SOUNDS ALMOST EXISTENTIAL?
>> Tofalli: OH, IT'S TERMINAL,
FOR A LOT OF PUBS.
319
00:35:51,883 --> 00:36:01,158
>> Wertheirm: EVEN IN THE WORST
OF TIMES-- THE NAPOLEONIC WARS,
THE SPANISH FLU-- PUBS DID NOT
CLOSE.
320
00:36:01,225 --> 00:36:06,464
DESPITE THE BOMBINGS IN THE
BLITZ, CHURCHILL INSISTED THAT
PUBS REMAIN OPEN.
HOW BAD CAN THINGS BE, IF WE CAN
321
00:36:06,531 --> 00:36:12,403
STILL PULL A PINT?
>> Newsreel: THIS IS JUST A
LITTLE STORY TO SHOW THAT THE
SPIRIT OF THE PUBS IS EXCELLENT;
322
00:36:12,470 --> 00:36:19,744
THEIR HOUSES BOMBED, THEY CARRY
ON OUTSIDE.
>> Wertheirm: THE LOCKDOWN GAVE
BRITAIN A GLIMPSE OF A FUTURE
323
00:36:19,810 --> 00:36:27,552
WITHOUT PUBS.
FOR MONTHS, THE COBBLED STREETS
WHERE DICKENS ONCE WALKED:
SILENT.
324
00:36:27,618 --> 00:36:32,957
THE TAVERNS WHERE CHAUCER OR
SHAKESPEARE MIGHT HAVE DRUNK:
EMPTY.
MILLIONS OF BARRELS OF BEER
325
00:36:33,024 --> 00:36:40,631
LITERALLY DOWN THE DRAIN.
WHAT DOES THIS COUNTRY STAND TO
LOSE IF PUBS DIMINISH?
>> Brown: PART OF ITS IDENTITY.
326
00:36:40,698 --> 00:36:47,138
WE CELEBRATE OUR NATIONALITY IN
A VERY QUIET WAY.
IN-- IN A VERY MODEST WAY.
AND THE PUB IS THE PERFECT
327
00:36:47,204 --> 00:36:53,144
EXAMPLE OF THAT.
WE'RE-- WE'RE PROUD OF THE PUB.
AND IF IT WAS TAKEN AWAY FROM
US, I THINK WE'D LOSE SOMETHING
328
00:36:53,210 --> 00:36:56,948
OF WHAT DEFINES US, AS A NATION.
>> Wertheirm: IT'S NOT FLAG-
WAVING JINGOISM, BUT-- BUT
COMING IN HERE IS SORT OF AN--
329
00:36:57,014 --> 00:37:00,618
AN-- AN--
>> Brown: YEAH.
>> Wertheirm: --ACT OF
PATRIOTISM, YOU'RE SAYING.
330
00:37:00,685 --> 00:37:07,258
>> Brown: IT'S JUST COMING IN
AND JUST GOING, "YEAH, I'LL HAVE
ANOTHER PINT, THANK YOU."
>> Wertheirm: COMING OUT OF
331
00:37:07,325 --> 00:37:17,535
LOCKDOWN, THE PINT-WIELDING
PATRIOTS BELIEVED, MORE THAN
EVER, THAT THE PUB IS AN
INSTITUTION WORTH SAVING.
332
00:37:17,602 --> 00:37:24,141
SAVING THE TRADITIONAL PUB, IS
THAT NOSTALGIA FOR A BRITAIN
THAT MAY NO LONGER EXIST?
>> Murray: OH, THERE ARE SO MANY
333
00:37:24,208 --> 00:37:30,748
BRITAINS THAT MAY NO LONGER
EXIST, BUT THE-- THE ONE THAT'S
WORTH SAVING IS THE PUB, SURELY.
I MEAN, YOU KNOW, WE DON'T NEED
334
00:37:30,815 --> 00:37:35,019
A NAVY ANYMORE, DO WE?
WE NEED PUBS.
( LAUGHS )
>> Wertheirm: IN A CHANGING
335
00:37:35,086 --> 00:37:42,093
BRITAIN, NOSTALGIA CAN RESIDE AT
THE BOTTOM OF A GLASS.
IN THE OH-SO-ENGLISH VILLAGE OF
ALDWORTH IN BERKSHIRE, YOU'LL
336
00:37:42,159 --> 00:37:50,635
FIND JUST A CRICKET GREEN, A
CHURCH, A FEW HOUSES, AND A PUB
RESISTANT TO TIME.
THE BELL INN HAS BEEN IN THE
337
00:37:50,701 --> 00:37:57,308
FAMILY OF HEATHER MACAULAY FOR
200 YEARS.
SHE WAS BORN IN THE PUB, AND
NOW, AT AGE 85, RUNS IT WITH HER
338
00:37:57,375 --> 00:38:07,385
SON, HUGH.
HOW MANY GENERATIONS IN-- IN
THESE 200 YEARS?
>> Heather Macaulay: WE GO AS--
339
00:38:07,451 --> 00:38:14,659
IT WAS JAMES AND HUGH AND THOMAS
AND RONALD AND THEN ME.
FIVE, I SUPPOSE.
>> Wertheirm: WE'VE TALKED TO
340
00:38:14,725 --> 00:38:21,298
SOME PUB OWNERS WHO'VE SAID
THEY-- THEY FELT THIS PRESSURE
TO EVOLVE, AND THEY'RE TRYING
GOURMET FOOD AND D.J.s AND
341
00:38:21,365 --> 00:38:27,838
TECHNOLOGY.
>> Hugh Macaulay: HERE, NO.
WE ARE PLAIN, SIMPLE.
THAT'S HOW WE SURVIVE, THAT'S
342
00:38:27,905 --> 00:38:32,643
HOW WE'RE GOING TO SURVIVE.
I DON'T THINK WE'LL EVER BE
PUTTING TVs IN HERE, SOMEHOW.
>> Heather Macaulay: OH NO, NO.
343
00:38:32,710 --> 00:38:39,650
WELL, I DON'T EVEN HAVE A MOBILE
PHONE.
>> ertheirm: PUBS LIKE THE BELL
INNS AND THE OLD STARS HAVE DONE
344
00:38:39,717 --> 00:38:46,490
WHAT THEY'VE ALWAYS DONE, SERVED
THEIR COMMUNITIES.
BUT WHERE DOES THE REST OF THE
COUNTRY FIT IN?
345
00:38:46,557 --> 00:38:54,498
NIGERIAN-BORN CLEMENT OGBONNAYA
IS PROUD OWNER OF THE PRINCE OF
PECKHAM IN SOUTH LONDON.
HE HAS TAKEN THE MAGIC OF THE
346
00:38:54,565 --> 00:38:59,136
PUB AND ADAPTED IT TO
MULTICULTURAL, 21st CENTURY
BRITAIN.
>> Wertheirm: YOU HEAR THE WORD
347
00:38:59,203 --> 00:39:02,673
"PUB" 20 YEARS AGO.
WHAT ARE YOU THINKING?
>> Clement Ogbonnaya: I'M
THINKING, I'M NOT GOING THERE.
348
00:39:02,740 --> 00:39:05,776
( LAUGHS )
>> Wertheirm: SO, PLAY THAT OUT
FOR ME.
YOU WALK INTO A CONVENTIONAL PUB
349
00:39:05,843 --> 00:39:12,249
AND, WHAT HAPPENS?
>> Ogbonnaya: THINK OF CLINT
EASTWOOD IN A WESTERN MOVIE.
LIKE, EVERYONE LOOKS AT THE DOOR
350
00:39:12,316 --> 00:39:15,786
SWINGING-- "WHO'S THAT GUY?"
THAT'S HOW-- THAT'S HOW I FELT
IN SOME PUBS I WALKED IN.
>> Wertheirm: PIANO STOPS
351
00:39:15,853 --> 00:39:20,825
PLAYING?
>> Ogbonnaya: ABSOLUTELY.
ABSOLUTELY.
>> Wertheirm: FOUR YEARS AGO,
352
00:39:20,891 --> 00:39:27,998
CLEMENT BOUGHT UP A NEIGHBORHOOD
JOINT DESTINED TO BE TURNED INTO
AN APARTMENT BLOCK OR A MINI-
MARKET.
353
00:39:28,065 --> 00:39:32,169
>> Ogbonnaya: PUBS PLAY A
MASSIVE PART IN REPRESENTING THE
COMMUNITIES, REPRESENTING THE
UNDER-REPRESENTED, THE
354
00:39:32,236 --> 00:39:38,142
MARGINALIZED, AND GIVING THEM A
SPACE, GIVING THEM SOMEWHERE
WHERE THEY CAN ACTUALLY BE, THEY
CAN CONGREGATE, THEY CAN SHARE
355
00:39:38,209 --> 00:39:44,115
IDEAS.
>> Werheirm: WHEN KIDS TODAY
HEAR THE WORD "PUB," WHAT-- WHAT
DO YOU WANT THEM TO THINK?
356
00:39:44,181 --> 00:39:47,518
>> Ogbonnaya: I WANT THEM TO
THINK, "THAT'S-- THAT'S A SPACE
FOR ME.
THAT'S A SPACE WHERE I CAN BE.
357
00:39:47,585 --> 00:39:50,788
THAT'S A SPACE WHERE I CAN
CELEBRATE.
THAT'S A SPACE WHERE I CAN HANG
OUT, I CAN LAUGH, I CAN MOURN."
358
00:39:50,855 --> 00:39:55,259
>> Wertheirm: THAT'S WHAT YOU'RE
GOING FOR, WHEN YOU OPENED THIS
PLACE.
>> Ogbonnaya: I JUST-- I JUST
359
00:39:55,326 --> 00:40:04,602
LOVE SEEING THE MELTING POT THAT
IS LONDON REFLECTED IN THIS PUB.
>> Wertheirm: BEER AND GOOD
CHEER WON'T SAVE THEM ALL.
360
00:40:04,668 --> 00:40:12,810
WE HAD TO POUR ONE OUT FOR ONE
OF THE OLDEST PUBS IN THE
COUNTRY, YE OLDE FIGHTING COCKS.
THEY HAD TO CALL CLOSING TIME
361
00:40:12,877 --> 00:40:21,385
LAST WEEKEND, ANOTHER FINANCIAL
COVID CASUALTY.
BUT THE PRINCE OF PECKHAM MAY
HAVE SEIZED ON A WAY OUT-- CATER
362
00:40:21,452 --> 00:40:27,057
TO AN EVOLVING AND EVER-
CHANGING BRITAIN.
THOSE PINTS, AFTER ALL, AREN'T
GOING TO DRINK THEMSELVES.
363
00:40:27,124 --> 00:40:40,671
( TICKING )
>> Stahl: I'M LESLEY STAHL.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
WE'LL BE BACK NEXT WEEK WITH A
364
00:40:40,738 --> 00:40:50,181
BRAND NEW EDITION OF
Captioning funded by CBS
and FORD.
We go further, so you can.
365
00:40:50,247 --> 00:40:53,784
Captioned by
Media Access Group at WGBH
access.wgbh.org