1 00:00:07,280 --> 00:00:08,559 Ja. 2 00:00:08,560 --> 00:00:12,319 Oh, we're turning the corner here. 3 00:00:12,320 --> 00:00:14,919 No? Komm. Komm zieh. 4 00:00:14,920 --> 00:00:17,039 Komm mal mit mehr. 5 00:00:17,040 --> 00:00:18,040 Danke schoen. 6 00:00:19,200 --> 00:00:20,280 Danke schoen. 7 00:00:24,360 --> 00:00:27,839 Nein? Nein mehr? 8 00:00:27,840 --> 00:00:29,000 Ein bisschen mehr. 9 00:00:30,080 --> 00:00:32,160 I think Goldy's stopped to look at the view. 10 00:00:33,520 --> 00:00:36,559 And it's easy to see why. 11 00:00:36,560 --> 00:00:41,119 Switzerland is surrounded by some of Europe's highest and most 12 00:00:41,120 --> 00:00:42,919 beautiful peaks, 13 00:00:42,920 --> 00:00:46,079 that for centuries kept the rest of the world out. 14 00:00:46,080 --> 00:00:50,119 But how do you get to know a country that spent so much of its history 15 00:00:50,120 --> 00:00:52,280 making sure that you couldn't. 16 00:00:55,360 --> 00:00:58,599 The incredible European Alps. 17 00:00:58,600 --> 00:01:04,719 They're a gigantic white wall that divides Europe north from south. 18 00:01:04,720 --> 00:01:08,319 I'm off to travel through them sideways. 19 00:01:08,320 --> 00:01:13,479 From snowy peaks to bare, rugged mountain tops. 20 00:01:13,480 --> 00:01:17,279 When you come to the Alps, you reach for the superlatives... 21 00:01:17,280 --> 00:01:19,879 Well, it's very lucky I don't suffer from vertigo. 22 00:01:19,880 --> 00:01:21,279 ...the glorious... 23 00:01:21,280 --> 00:01:22,879 That was real awe. 24 00:01:22,880 --> 00:01:24,519 ...the overwhelming... 25 00:01:24,520 --> 00:01:27,039 Looking straight down is wondrous. 26 00:01:27,040 --> 00:01:28,799 ...and the terrifying. 27 00:01:28,800 --> 00:01:30,639 Slip and you go underneath it. 28 00:01:30,640 --> 00:01:32,240 Some embrace the bitter cold... 29 00:01:34,160 --> 00:01:36,079 ...some take to the skies... 30 00:01:36,080 --> 00:01:37,719 Go! Run, run, run, run, run! 31 00:01:37,720 --> 00:01:39,119 ...and so will I. 32 00:01:39,120 --> 00:01:41,119 Please, be careful. 33 00:01:41,120 --> 00:01:43,719 From the almost frozen... 34 00:01:43,720 --> 00:01:45,199 It's for professional. 35 00:01:45,200 --> 00:01:46,479 It's not for the common people. 36 00:01:46,480 --> 00:01:48,839 ...to the beautifully cosy... 37 00:01:48,840 --> 00:01:51,239 What a delightful baby lamb. 38 00:01:51,240 --> 00:01:52,839 ...and the untamed wild. 39 00:01:52,840 --> 00:01:54,679 I don't like the look in the wolf's eyes, 40 00:01:54,680 --> 00:01:57,159 in case, you know, they're still hungry. 41 00:01:57,160 --> 00:02:00,439 These are the Alps beyond the ski slopes. 42 00:02:00,440 --> 00:02:02,839 It's a mysterious place. 43 00:02:02,840 --> 00:02:04,719 Ah! 44 00:02:04,720 --> 00:02:07,359 I'm just completely dangling in the middle of nowhere. 45 00:02:07,360 --> 00:02:09,799 If you think the Alps are just for winter sports... 46 00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:12,119 Na zdravje. Na zdravje. 47 00:02:12,120 --> 00:02:14,400 ...well, they're so much more. 48 00:02:16,440 --> 00:02:18,560 and it's ours to explore. 49 00:02:32,640 --> 00:02:34,559 We've just crossed the border. 50 00:02:34,560 --> 00:02:37,400 Behind me is France, ahead of me, Switzerland. 51 00:02:39,720 --> 00:02:44,159 This is not just a train, it's a feat of engineering. 52 00:02:44,160 --> 00:02:46,199 What is interesting about the Swiss 53 00:02:46,200 --> 00:02:50,919 is that things become Swiss here. 54 00:02:50,920 --> 00:02:54,439 I mean, cheese quickly becomes Swiss cheese 55 00:02:54,440 --> 00:02:58,039 and Swiss railway, Swiss banks, Swiss watches. 56 00:02:58,040 --> 00:03:01,719 There's a lot of brand awareness in this country. 57 00:03:01,720 --> 00:03:04,039 Apart from the Japanese, 58 00:03:04,040 --> 00:03:09,200 no country uses the railway more than the Swiss. 59 00:03:10,800 --> 00:03:13,959 This country has built one of the world's most remarkable 60 00:03:13,960 --> 00:03:15,999 transport networks. 61 00:03:16,000 --> 00:03:18,559 Through mountains, under mountains, 62 00:03:18,560 --> 00:03:22,279 and sometimes straight up mountains. 63 00:03:22,280 --> 00:03:25,879 And it's called Swiss rail, of course. 64 00:03:25,880 --> 00:03:28,359 Somehow everybody uses it, 65 00:03:28,360 --> 00:03:31,159 and that's because they use their trains to get to the least 66 00:03:31,160 --> 00:03:33,560 accessible parts of their country. 67 00:03:36,040 --> 00:03:39,599 This is already worth the trip. 68 00:03:39,600 --> 00:03:42,480 This is just the most amazing train journey. 69 00:03:44,640 --> 00:03:50,279 For years, Switzerland was defined by its inaccessibility. 70 00:03:50,280 --> 00:03:54,399 I mean, this was the country that could defend itself against 71 00:03:54,400 --> 00:03:56,519 allcomers. 72 00:03:56,520 --> 00:04:00,280 It was given by God the mountains to protect it. 73 00:04:01,720 --> 00:04:04,320 And that's really what I want to investigate. 74 00:04:07,400 --> 00:04:10,639 These valleys were places of refuge. 75 00:04:10,640 --> 00:04:12,359 As the invaders came in, 76 00:04:12,360 --> 00:04:14,959 as the Celts came in, as the Romans came in, 77 00:04:14,960 --> 00:04:18,039 so the local population tended to sneak away 78 00:04:18,040 --> 00:04:21,399 to their own Shangri-Las, their own hidden valleys. 79 00:04:21,400 --> 00:04:26,199 And that sense of being in separate hidden places 80 00:04:26,200 --> 00:04:31,079 was the beginning of the foundation of the Swiss state, 81 00:04:31,080 --> 00:04:36,959 which is made up of 26 separate cantons, 82 00:04:36,960 --> 00:04:39,600 which are all fiercely independent. 83 00:04:41,400 --> 00:04:44,279 There are three official languages 84 00:04:44,280 --> 00:04:46,599 and multiple dialects. 85 00:04:46,600 --> 00:04:50,999 It's not an exaggeration to say that some Swiss really don't understand 86 00:04:51,000 --> 00:04:52,879 their neighbours. 87 00:04:52,880 --> 00:04:57,640 We're already moving from French into German-speaking Switzerland. 88 00:04:59,040 --> 00:05:01,159 I'm in Interlaken, near Bern. 89 00:05:01,160 --> 00:05:05,759 My driver, Patrick, is going to take me to another train. 90 00:05:05,760 --> 00:05:08,239 So now I'm here in the Oberland, 91 00:05:08,240 --> 00:05:12,599 what things do you think I should try and do? 92 00:05:12,600 --> 00:05:13,879 Visit the mountain. 93 00:05:13,880 --> 00:05:15,919 Yeah. Go for trekking tours. 94 00:05:15,920 --> 00:05:17,159 Yeah. 95 00:05:17,160 --> 00:05:19,839 Enjoy the nice waterfalls what we got here. 96 00:05:19,840 --> 00:05:22,799 OK, so what shall I carry with me as a thought, 97 00:05:22,800 --> 00:05:26,479 as I gambol about in the Oberland? 98 00:05:26,480 --> 00:05:29,760 Was der bauer nicht kennt, frisst er nicht. 99 00:05:31,240 --> 00:05:34,559 Was der bauer... Nicht kennt... 100 00:05:34,560 --> 00:05:35,839 ...nicht kennt... 101 00:05:35,840 --> 00:05:38,759 ...frisst er nicht. OK. 102 00:05:38,760 --> 00:05:41,359 What the farmer doesn't know, he doesn't eat. 103 00:05:41,360 --> 00:05:43,079 It means be cautious. 104 00:05:43,080 --> 00:05:44,279 GRIFF LAUGHS 105 00:05:44,280 --> 00:05:45,799 Well, we shall see. 106 00:05:45,800 --> 00:05:48,199 The Bernese Alps seem to attract people 107 00:05:48,200 --> 00:05:50,919 wanting to discover what lies beyond, 108 00:05:50,920 --> 00:05:52,719 which is where I'm going. 109 00:05:52,720 --> 00:05:55,959 This time, though, on a cogwheel train. 110 00:05:55,960 --> 00:05:58,959 It literally grips the track with a cog 111 00:05:58,960 --> 00:06:03,039 as it climbs up through the heart of one of Switzerland's most 112 00:06:03,040 --> 00:06:05,800 fearsome mountains, the Eiger. 113 00:06:07,040 --> 00:06:09,919 13,000ft above sea level, 114 00:06:09,920 --> 00:06:14,159 the name comes from the German word ogre. 115 00:06:14,160 --> 00:06:18,879 The Eiger was first conquered by a man called Charles Barrington. 116 00:06:18,880 --> 00:06:21,159 He was a racehorse owner from Dublin, 117 00:06:21,160 --> 00:06:23,839 and he arrived in about the 1850s, 118 00:06:23,840 --> 00:06:26,279 called the man who ran his hotel over and said, 119 00:06:26,280 --> 00:06:30,559 "Can you tell me here which of these mountains have not been climbed?" 120 00:06:30,560 --> 00:06:34,199 And the hotel owner said, "Well, that one, that one, that one." 121 00:06:34,200 --> 00:06:36,319 He said, "All right, I'll do them." 122 00:06:36,320 --> 00:06:37,920 One of them was the Eiger. 123 00:06:39,200 --> 00:06:42,399 He went up the easy way, he went up the west face. 124 00:06:42,400 --> 00:06:49,199 The north face was left for slightly more equipped climbers, 125 00:06:49,200 --> 00:06:53,679 because the north face is known as the North Wall, 126 00:06:53,680 --> 00:06:55,719 or in German, 127 00:06:55,720 --> 00:06:57,199 the Death Wall. 128 00:06:57,200 --> 00:07:01,599 It's one of the most difficult climbs in the Alps, 129 00:07:01,600 --> 00:07:06,239 and nobody got up there until 1938. 130 00:07:06,240 --> 00:07:10,039 Decades before that, though, engineers cut a tunnel through the 131 00:07:10,040 --> 00:07:12,039 middle of the Eiger itself. 132 00:07:12,040 --> 00:07:16,839 Opened in 1912, the Jungfrau Railway still takes casual visitors 133 00:07:16,840 --> 00:07:19,479 deep inside the mountain. 134 00:07:19,480 --> 00:07:22,320 These are amazing stations. 135 00:07:23,440 --> 00:07:28,119 We are right in the middle 136 00:07:28,120 --> 00:07:30,600 of the Eiger mountain. 137 00:07:31,760 --> 00:07:34,719 And originally the stations were points 138 00:07:34,720 --> 00:07:39,639 where they put a window in the side of the mountain because, as they 139 00:07:39,640 --> 00:07:42,359 built it, they ended up with rubble, 140 00:07:42,360 --> 00:07:45,400 and they needed to get rid of that rubble, so they built a hole. 141 00:07:47,240 --> 00:07:51,399 So these windows here were originally cut to get the rubble out 142 00:07:51,400 --> 00:07:52,879 of the building, the tunnel. 143 00:07:52,880 --> 00:07:55,759 But in 1936, 144 00:07:55,760 --> 00:08:01,879 a station attendant was waiting for the next train when he heard voices 145 00:08:01,880 --> 00:08:03,599 coming off the mountain. 146 00:08:03,600 --> 00:08:05,359 And he went to the window, 147 00:08:05,360 --> 00:08:07,479 and there were four climbers, 148 00:08:07,480 --> 00:08:11,679 experienced climbers, 50m above him, 149 00:08:11,680 --> 00:08:17,279 who had decided to attempt the north face of the Eiger. 150 00:08:17,280 --> 00:08:19,359 But the weather worsened, 151 00:08:19,360 --> 00:08:22,719 and they decided to give up their attempt. 152 00:08:22,720 --> 00:08:25,519 And they were coming back down the mountain 153 00:08:25,520 --> 00:08:27,959 when the stationmaster heard them, 154 00:08:27,960 --> 00:08:29,360 and he said, "OK, boys... 155 00:08:30,440 --> 00:08:33,679 "..I'm just off to put on a cup of tea for you 156 00:08:33,680 --> 00:08:36,239 "when you get here." 157 00:08:36,240 --> 00:08:41,319 Two hours later, they had not arrived. 158 00:08:41,320 --> 00:08:43,239 There was a fall, 159 00:08:43,240 --> 00:08:44,760 and three of them died. 160 00:08:46,520 --> 00:08:48,039 One remained. 161 00:08:48,040 --> 00:08:49,840 He was called Toni Kurz. 162 00:08:51,400 --> 00:08:54,999 And he started to try and descend 163 00:08:55,000 --> 00:08:56,879 to that open window, 164 00:08:56,880 --> 00:09:01,239 which would be his life-saving opportunity. 165 00:09:01,240 --> 00:09:04,359 The rescuers went out through the window, 166 00:09:04,360 --> 00:09:08,959 and they got within 5m of him. 167 00:09:08,960 --> 00:09:15,719 But his abseil rope was not long enough to reach them. 168 00:09:15,720 --> 00:09:17,679 And with frozen fingers, 169 00:09:17,680 --> 00:09:22,959 he tried to unpick it and make two ropes out of it. 170 00:09:22,960 --> 00:09:26,640 And he tied a knot and lowered himself further down. 171 00:09:28,240 --> 00:09:33,239 But his knot got stuck in his carabiner, 172 00:09:33,240 --> 00:09:35,719 and he couldn't get through. 173 00:09:35,720 --> 00:09:41,359 And his fingers were so frozen he couldn't untie that knot. 174 00:09:41,360 --> 00:09:44,959 That night, they left him, the weather was so bad. 175 00:09:44,960 --> 00:09:48,319 When they came back in the morning, he was still alive. 176 00:09:48,320 --> 00:09:49,919 And he said, 177 00:09:49,920 --> 00:09:53,559 "I just can't do any more." 178 00:09:53,560 --> 00:09:58,719 And with 5m between him and those rescuers, 179 00:09:58,720 --> 00:10:00,080 he froze to death. 180 00:10:05,080 --> 00:10:07,239 On these mountain faces, 181 00:10:07,240 --> 00:10:12,280 you confront human endeavour at its absolute most pointless... 182 00:10:13,760 --> 00:10:14,920 ...unless you're doing it. 183 00:10:17,040 --> 00:10:21,960 As some other climber said, "It's an entirely personal matter." 184 00:10:29,040 --> 00:10:31,719 It's just an incredible contrast 185 00:10:31,720 --> 00:10:35,239 between the warmth and comfort and safety 186 00:10:35,240 --> 00:10:38,719 of this accessible tourist train, 187 00:10:38,720 --> 00:10:43,199 and a man dying on his own a few yards away, 188 00:10:43,200 --> 00:10:47,640 stuck on the inaccessible north face of the Eiger. 189 00:10:50,720 --> 00:10:56,160 We cog our way ever higher to emerge at the Sphinx Observatory. 190 00:10:58,520 --> 00:11:01,519 Built as an astronomical and climate research station, 191 00:11:01,520 --> 00:11:07,239 it's perched more than 11,700ft above sea level. 192 00:11:07,240 --> 00:11:08,919 Despite all its visitors, 193 00:11:08,920 --> 00:11:13,119 the Sphinx is so isolated it has to provide its own water, power and 194 00:11:13,120 --> 00:11:14,999 air supply. 195 00:11:15,000 --> 00:11:17,439 I'm looking for a hidden entrance, 196 00:11:17,440 --> 00:11:20,399 like entering a super villain's lair. 197 00:11:20,400 --> 00:11:22,520 This is so Dr No, isn't it? 198 00:11:23,760 --> 00:11:26,319 You know, real James Bond stuff. 199 00:11:26,320 --> 00:11:29,119 I mean, if I hadn't touched it like this, 200 00:11:29,120 --> 00:11:30,439 you'd think it was fake, 201 00:11:30,440 --> 00:11:32,799 you'd think it'd been put together by a set designer. 202 00:11:32,800 --> 00:11:34,080 But no, it's rock. 203 00:11:35,680 --> 00:11:39,640 Apparently, there is a sort of secret place here, too. 204 00:11:42,440 --> 00:11:43,560 Hello? 205 00:11:45,640 --> 00:11:50,319 Beyond this door is my guide, Dr Eliza. 206 00:11:50,320 --> 00:11:52,359 She's come from Down Under 207 00:11:52,360 --> 00:11:55,040 to find herself at the top of the world. 208 00:11:56,680 --> 00:11:59,039 So what goes on in here? 209 00:11:59,040 --> 00:12:02,159 We are mostly measuring how the atmosphere functions 210 00:12:02,160 --> 00:12:04,599 and how it interacts with the biosphere... 211 00:12:04,600 --> 00:12:06,039 Mm-hm. ..on a really long term, 212 00:12:06,040 --> 00:12:08,599 and of course, what's going on with climate change. 213 00:12:08,600 --> 00:12:11,119 This is the main research lab of the Sphinx. 214 00:12:11,120 --> 00:12:13,479 Yeah. Here we have most of the instruments running. 215 00:12:13,480 --> 00:12:16,519 They're from institutes across Europe. 216 00:12:16,520 --> 00:12:19,759 And we're in what they call the troposphere, are we? 217 00:12:19,760 --> 00:12:21,159 We're in the troposphere, yeah. 218 00:12:21,160 --> 00:12:22,519 What is the troposphere, then? 219 00:12:22,520 --> 00:12:25,239 The troposphere is the first layer of the atmosphere. 220 00:12:25,240 --> 00:12:28,039 Yes. So we measure air that's representative of the whole of 221 00:12:28,040 --> 00:12:29,439 Central Europe. 222 00:12:29,440 --> 00:12:34,359 The observatory offers stylishly designed accommodation 223 00:12:34,360 --> 00:12:38,919 to enable scientists to sleep and eat while carrying out research. 224 00:12:38,920 --> 00:12:40,319 These are very cosy. 225 00:12:40,320 --> 00:12:42,519 This is much better than the hotel I'm staying in. 226 00:12:42,520 --> 00:12:44,959 It's much nicer than you expect. 227 00:12:44,960 --> 00:12:46,120 Wonderful, isn't it? 228 00:12:50,520 --> 00:12:51,680 Wow! 229 00:12:52,800 --> 00:12:54,000 Terrific. 230 00:12:56,080 --> 00:12:57,799 This is the library. Yep. 231 00:12:57,800 --> 00:12:59,839 Probably the highest library in Europe. 232 00:12:59,840 --> 00:13:02,559 The highest library in Europe. 233 00:13:02,560 --> 00:13:06,319 And when people came here and they had their conferences and they used 234 00:13:06,320 --> 00:13:08,519 the library and they stayed down there, 235 00:13:08,520 --> 00:13:11,359 originally, cos this place was built in the 1930s... 236 00:13:11,360 --> 00:13:12,679 Yep. ..is that right? 237 00:13:12,680 --> 00:13:14,279 What were they coming for, then? 238 00:13:14,280 --> 00:13:17,519 Yeah. So back then, things like climate and greenhouse gases weren't 239 00:13:17,520 --> 00:13:19,559 of such interest. Mm-hm. 240 00:13:19,560 --> 00:13:23,119 And so, yeah, cosmic rays and astronomy were the big topics... 241 00:13:23,120 --> 00:13:24,639 Really? ..in the early years. 242 00:13:24,640 --> 00:13:26,719 Cosmic rays. Yeah. We still measure cosmic rays. 243 00:13:26,720 --> 00:13:27,839 Really? Yeah. 244 00:13:27,840 --> 00:13:29,519 OK, good. I'm glad somebody is. 245 00:13:29,520 --> 00:13:32,439 The scientists even have their own private terrace, 246 00:13:32,440 --> 00:13:34,639 isolated from the riff-raff. 247 00:13:34,640 --> 00:13:37,479 So here we are on the Meteor-Terrasse, we call it. 248 00:13:37,480 --> 00:13:38,960 The Meteorology Terrace. 249 00:13:40,240 --> 00:13:44,279 It's a chance for Dr Eliza to discuss the mysterious ways of the 250 00:13:44,280 --> 00:13:47,399 Swiss, in private. 251 00:13:47,400 --> 00:13:48,959 Compared with Australians, 252 00:13:48,960 --> 00:13:51,319 who are sort of easy-going and open and everything, 253 00:13:51,320 --> 00:13:55,559 it's quite difficult to penetrate Swiss social norms. 254 00:13:55,560 --> 00:13:56,919 Yes, very. 255 00:13:56,920 --> 00:14:00,599 The Swiss are friendly, polite definitely, helpful, 256 00:14:00,600 --> 00:14:02,799 but not socially open. 257 00:14:02,800 --> 00:14:05,319 So it's quite difficult to make close friends here. 258 00:14:05,320 --> 00:14:07,279 Yes, or any friends. 259 00:14:07,280 --> 00:14:09,399 Really? Yes. 260 00:14:09,400 --> 00:14:12,559 Yes. So they remain an inaccessible people. 261 00:14:12,560 --> 00:14:15,399 They do remain an inaccessible people. Yes. 262 00:14:15,400 --> 00:14:17,519 And it becomes more and more inaccessible. 263 00:14:17,520 --> 00:14:20,519 In Bern, you might understand the dialect after a year, 264 00:14:20,520 --> 00:14:22,639 but if you move into the mountains, 265 00:14:22,640 --> 00:14:23,839 you can't understand. 266 00:14:23,840 --> 00:14:26,679 Even my husband, who's a native German speaker, 267 00:14:26,680 --> 00:14:28,159 can't understand them. 268 00:14:28,160 --> 00:14:29,999 So the start is the language. The language... 269 00:14:30,000 --> 00:14:31,599 The languages and the dialects... Yes. 270 00:14:31,600 --> 00:14:32,879 ...are very different. Yeah. 271 00:14:32,880 --> 00:14:34,679 Yes. And they're very proud of their culture 272 00:14:34,680 --> 00:14:36,079 and want to speak their language. 273 00:14:36,080 --> 00:14:38,479 And so if you don't, it's difficult. 274 00:14:38,480 --> 00:14:40,959 Fair enough, really. Yeah, but all these traditions you see. 275 00:14:40,960 --> 00:14:44,639 I was with a taxi driver yesterday, 276 00:14:44,640 --> 00:14:48,159 and of course, he was listening to yodel music. 277 00:14:48,160 --> 00:14:49,839 I mean, he wasn't, I mean, this wasn't, 278 00:14:49,840 --> 00:14:51,359 you know, this is not just like... 279 00:14:51,360 --> 00:14:54,319 ...I mean, people might have it as a joke or as a sort of... 280 00:14:54,320 --> 00:14:57,039 ...but he was sitting, and as we were driving along, 281 00:14:57,040 --> 00:14:58,439 the radio was quietly going... 282 00:14:58,440 --> 00:14:59,559 GRIFF YODELS 283 00:14:59,560 --> 00:15:00,839 Yeah. 284 00:15:00,840 --> 00:15:02,160 And that was what he liked. 285 00:15:04,720 --> 00:15:08,599 From up here, the inaccessible is all around us. 286 00:15:08,600 --> 00:15:12,039 Glaciers 800m thick, 287 00:15:12,040 --> 00:15:14,159 the challenging Eiger, 288 00:15:14,160 --> 00:15:17,759 and peaks that stretch into Germany. 289 00:15:17,760 --> 00:15:21,240 No wonder the Swiss kept it to themselves for so long. 290 00:15:32,680 --> 00:15:38,479 Deep in the Bernese Alps lies the exquisite Lauterbrunnen Valley, 291 00:15:38,480 --> 00:15:41,719 with sheer walls of rock. 292 00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:45,639 For some, not a barrier at all, but an opportunity to launch themselves 293 00:15:45,640 --> 00:15:46,999 into space. 294 00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:51,599 Jenna uses neither parachute nor hang glider. 295 00:15:51,600 --> 00:15:55,279 This is an extraordinary cliff behind us here. 296 00:15:55,280 --> 00:15:59,679 Yeah. Is it popular with jumpers and paragliders? 297 00:15:59,680 --> 00:16:03,599 It's probably the most popular area and place 298 00:16:03,600 --> 00:16:06,279 in the whole valley to fly from. 299 00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:09,239 How high is that cliff we're looking at now? 300 00:16:09,240 --> 00:16:12,479 The highest here is around 750m. 301 00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:15,999 That's more than twice the height of the Eiffel Tower. 302 00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:19,399 And Jenna really does intend to fly from it. 303 00:16:19,400 --> 00:16:21,799 She's a BASE jumper. 304 00:16:21,800 --> 00:16:25,559 When you jump, how high do you need to go? 305 00:16:25,560 --> 00:16:30,519 Well, I don't jump anything lower than 500m, 400. Mm. 306 00:16:30,520 --> 00:16:32,679 Like, that's my minimum. Yeah. 307 00:16:32,680 --> 00:16:34,759 But I do prefer the longer flights, 308 00:16:34,760 --> 00:16:36,639 because the longer you hike, 309 00:16:36,640 --> 00:16:38,519 the longer the flight. 310 00:16:38,520 --> 00:16:43,079 BASE jumping is essentially skydiving from a fixed object rather 311 00:16:43,080 --> 00:16:45,279 than an aircraft. 312 00:16:45,280 --> 00:16:47,839 The name derives from four launch points, 313 00:16:47,840 --> 00:16:51,880 buildings, antennas, spans and earth. 314 00:16:53,400 --> 00:16:55,919 There is an element to BASE jumping... Yeah. 315 00:16:55,920 --> 00:16:57,279 ...which is, 316 00:16:57,280 --> 00:17:01,079 I'm not saying you have it, but some people, a little bit of naughtiness. 317 00:17:01,080 --> 00:17:02,879 I actually like the word naughtiness. 318 00:17:02,880 --> 00:17:06,279 But, you know, it's just doing something together. 319 00:17:06,280 --> 00:17:09,439 And of course, we could also just go to town and drink coffee. 320 00:17:09,440 --> 00:17:12,719 The image of BASE jumpers is 321 00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:14,119 of recklessness. 322 00:17:14,120 --> 00:17:18,759 But actually for you, the safety aspects are important. 323 00:17:18,760 --> 00:17:21,999 It's the biggest thing because, for me, it's not about, 324 00:17:22,000 --> 00:17:24,479 "Aw, I just do this jump, and then we see." 325 00:17:24,480 --> 00:17:28,239 I mean, for me, more important is going back home. 326 00:17:28,240 --> 00:17:32,559 Jenna's wingsuit is designed to turn her body into a glider. 327 00:17:32,560 --> 00:17:35,279 Fabric panels between the arms and legs 328 00:17:35,280 --> 00:17:37,719 create an aerodynamic shape, 329 00:17:37,720 --> 00:17:41,319 allowing her to travel forwards through the air before she deploys 330 00:17:41,320 --> 00:17:43,159 her parachute. 331 00:17:43,160 --> 00:17:48,119 Jenna, have you got addicted to feeling that rush that you get when 332 00:17:48,120 --> 00:17:49,879 you're just about to go, 333 00:17:49,880 --> 00:17:53,199 and the rush you get when you've got down to the bottom safely? 334 00:17:53,200 --> 00:17:56,319 You're probably disappointed, but to me, it's really not a rush. 335 00:17:56,320 --> 00:17:59,039 It's just that pure flying, 336 00:17:59,040 --> 00:18:00,879 the feeling of pure flying. 337 00:18:00,880 --> 00:18:02,879 To us, it's a calm experience. 338 00:18:02,880 --> 00:18:04,719 It's pure human flight. 339 00:18:04,720 --> 00:18:08,119 Well, I'm really impressed that you've done about 700 of these. 340 00:18:08,120 --> 00:18:11,399 And I feel that you know what you're doing. 341 00:18:11,400 --> 00:18:13,279 Sometimes. 342 00:18:13,280 --> 00:18:14,599 No. 343 00:18:14,600 --> 00:18:18,479 So I don't have to say to you, "Be careful, whatever you do." 344 00:18:18,480 --> 00:18:21,159 But do be careful. I'm sure she will. 345 00:18:21,160 --> 00:18:23,959 While Jenna leaves for her difficult-to-access launch point 346 00:18:23,960 --> 00:18:26,239 above the Lauterbrunnen Valley, 347 00:18:26,240 --> 00:18:28,360 I take the cable car down. 348 00:18:29,440 --> 00:18:33,200 High above me, Jenna steadies herself and launches. 349 00:18:38,560 --> 00:18:41,199 Statistically, 1 in 500 BASE jumpers 350 00:18:41,200 --> 00:18:45,359 don't live to tell of their last jump. 351 00:18:45,360 --> 00:18:47,679 And then from my car, I can clearly see her 352 00:18:47,680 --> 00:18:52,240 soaring unaided at terrific speed out into the mountain air. 353 00:18:58,000 --> 00:19:00,799 What a staggering thing to do. 354 00:19:00,800 --> 00:19:04,279 Jenna made it down safely. 355 00:19:04,280 --> 00:19:07,080 Now I need to get down to earth myself. 356 00:19:08,680 --> 00:19:10,879 Not far from the Lauterbrunnen valley 357 00:19:10,880 --> 00:19:15,279 is another of Switzerland's outstanding natural wonders, 358 00:19:15,280 --> 00:19:17,559 the Aare Gorge. 359 00:19:17,560 --> 00:19:22,239 This natural stone cathedral was created by glaciers. 360 00:19:22,240 --> 00:19:27,639 And landscape like this influenced writers such as J. R. R. Tolkien. 361 00:19:27,640 --> 00:19:30,879 Switzerland shaped Middle Earth. 362 00:19:30,880 --> 00:19:36,559 But what's also interesting about the rocks in alpine scenery is not 363 00:19:36,560 --> 00:19:40,239 just that they inspired people to think about elves and spirits and 364 00:19:40,240 --> 00:19:44,519 write poetry, but they also inspired geologists. 365 00:19:44,520 --> 00:19:51,719 I mean, this isn't teenage graffiti artist scouring the edges here. 366 00:19:51,720 --> 00:19:53,440 This is nature. 367 00:19:55,080 --> 00:19:59,359 I suppose the gorge is what God has managed to carve, 368 00:19:59,360 --> 00:20:02,960 and this is what man has managed to carve. 369 00:20:05,400 --> 00:20:07,880 No wonder people were enthralled by nature. 370 00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:16,759 The Alps changed the way we understood our own planet. 371 00:20:16,760 --> 00:20:18,559 As scientists studied these mountains, 372 00:20:18,560 --> 00:20:22,679 they came to realise that the Earth was far older than anyone had 373 00:20:22,680 --> 00:20:24,439 previously imagined. 374 00:20:24,440 --> 00:20:26,999 Not just centuries or human lifetimes, 375 00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:31,199 but millions, in fact, billions of years. 376 00:20:31,200 --> 00:20:36,759 It was a joy for geologists to gradually work out that these 377 00:20:36,760 --> 00:20:44,639 narrow, narrow gorges were, in fact, carved by glaciers and ice, 378 00:20:44,640 --> 00:20:47,799 working their way through the limestone, 379 00:20:47,800 --> 00:20:49,999 cutting like a knife. 380 00:20:50,000 --> 00:20:51,839 It's so dramatic. 381 00:20:51,840 --> 00:20:53,479 Cue Wagner. 382 00:20:53,480 --> 00:20:55,400 RIDE OF THE VALKYRIES PLAYS 383 00:21:02,960 --> 00:21:06,719 Geologists have now decided and worked out 384 00:21:06,720 --> 00:21:10,439 that these rocks were formed 385 00:21:10,440 --> 00:21:17,119 as the bottoms of seas about 150 million years ago. 386 00:21:17,120 --> 00:21:23,199 But the actual carving out of this extraordinary gorge 387 00:21:23,200 --> 00:21:26,799 took place only 15,000 years ago 388 00:21:26,800 --> 00:21:29,839 during the last Ice Age. 389 00:21:29,840 --> 00:21:34,440 That sort of thought makes this sort of visit rather worthwhile. 390 00:21:38,440 --> 00:21:40,199 Leaving the Aare Gorge, 391 00:21:40,200 --> 00:21:42,959 I continue my journey west. 392 00:21:42,960 --> 00:21:48,519 Surely nowhere could seem more quintessentially, more uniquely, 393 00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:50,520 more exquisitely Swiss. 394 00:21:51,880 --> 00:21:54,519 This is the Bernese Oberland, 395 00:21:54,520 --> 00:21:57,719 or the upland of Bern. 396 00:21:57,720 --> 00:22:00,599 And above us, all these towering mountains, 397 00:22:00,600 --> 00:22:02,319 which look so beautiful, 398 00:22:02,320 --> 00:22:04,920 and also, of course, so inaccessible. 399 00:22:06,080 --> 00:22:09,639 There is a paradox at work here, because although the area has become 400 00:22:09,640 --> 00:22:13,719 one of the most visited places in the world, with over 21 million 401 00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:16,839 arriving last year in search of selfies, 402 00:22:16,840 --> 00:22:22,959 this country was once a separate, inaccessible mountain fastness 403 00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:24,720 throughout its early history. 404 00:22:26,360 --> 00:22:30,079 When Virginia Woolf's father, Leslie Stephen, 405 00:22:30,080 --> 00:22:33,519 wrote about Switzerland in 1871, 406 00:22:33,520 --> 00:22:37,239 he already called it, "The playground of Europe." 407 00:22:37,240 --> 00:22:40,119 But to him, the ones gallivanting in the mountains 408 00:22:40,120 --> 00:22:43,199 were a superior elite. 409 00:22:43,200 --> 00:22:47,119 The earthbound majority could only sit and wonder at the relationship 410 00:22:47,120 --> 00:22:50,119 between the mountains and our delight in them. 411 00:22:50,120 --> 00:22:52,479 Take these waters. 412 00:22:52,480 --> 00:22:54,720 This is Lake Brienz. 413 00:22:56,240 --> 00:22:59,999 It's the most extraordinary turquoise colour. 414 00:23:00,000 --> 00:23:02,959 It's that colour because what they call rock flour, 415 00:23:02,960 --> 00:23:04,959 it's fed by glaciers. 416 00:23:04,960 --> 00:23:08,599 And as they come down, they grind up the rocks beneath them, 417 00:23:08,600 --> 00:23:11,559 and these rocks are minerals. 418 00:23:11,560 --> 00:23:14,879 And so the minerals, the tiny bits of dust, 419 00:23:14,880 --> 00:23:18,119 are held in suspension in the water. 420 00:23:18,120 --> 00:23:20,640 And that gives it this magical appearance. 421 00:23:22,240 --> 00:23:27,839 It's about 20km from here to Interlaken, 422 00:23:27,840 --> 00:23:29,800 where I'm going next. 423 00:23:51,120 --> 00:23:53,079 Leaving the high mountains, 424 00:23:53,080 --> 00:23:58,879 I'm now down in a town that sits between two fabulous lakes, 425 00:23:58,880 --> 00:24:00,280 Interlaken. 426 00:24:02,120 --> 00:24:05,199 How typically Swiss is this place? 427 00:24:05,200 --> 00:24:07,879 To find out, I've arranged to meet Ahmet, 428 00:24:07,880 --> 00:24:12,919 a comedian who moved here from Texas and became a Swiss citizen. 429 00:24:12,920 --> 00:24:17,639 People don't expect a lot of laughs from Germanic people in general. 430 00:24:17,640 --> 00:24:20,239 Well, I think that's unfair, isn't it? But probably true. 431 00:24:20,240 --> 00:24:22,279 Yeah, to some extent, true. 432 00:24:22,280 --> 00:24:24,999 I also find it's like an untapped area. 433 00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:28,999 Ahmet makes a living with Swiss-Germanic jokes. 434 00:24:29,000 --> 00:24:30,559 Pretty niche, if you ask me. 435 00:24:30,560 --> 00:24:34,839 But if I want to understand this country, he's a good guide. 436 00:24:34,840 --> 00:24:38,559 40% of the people who live permanently here 437 00:24:38,560 --> 00:24:40,719 are not Swiss citizens. That's true. 438 00:24:40,720 --> 00:24:42,639 You are a Swiss citizen. 439 00:24:42,640 --> 00:24:44,879 Yes. Did that take a lot of effort? 440 00:24:44,880 --> 00:24:47,239 Of course, it takes minimum ten years. 441 00:24:47,240 --> 00:24:48,559 You need to know the language. 442 00:24:48,560 --> 00:24:51,279 You need to also integrate with the country, 443 00:24:51,280 --> 00:24:53,279 with the style of life. 444 00:24:53,280 --> 00:24:57,079 How you get the passport depends on where you ask for the passport. 445 00:24:57,080 --> 00:24:59,759 Zurich, which is the canton I got it from, 446 00:24:59,760 --> 00:25:01,839 is of course in Ins, Switzerland. 447 00:25:01,840 --> 00:25:03,759 It's a bit more metropolitan people. 448 00:25:03,760 --> 00:25:04,839 I'll tell you like this. 449 00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:06,239 I entered my immigration exam. 450 00:25:06,240 --> 00:25:08,679 I'm worried, you know, and everything. 451 00:25:08,680 --> 00:25:11,319 And then I sit down and I saw the woman has a septum piercing. 452 00:25:11,320 --> 00:25:13,279 I'm like, "Ah, I'm gonna be fine. 453 00:25:13,280 --> 00:25:14,759 "She's good," you know? 454 00:25:14,760 --> 00:25:16,199 But on the countryside... 455 00:25:16,200 --> 00:25:18,039 Yeah. ..it's a little bit more different... 456 00:25:18,040 --> 00:25:19,439 Yes. ..a little bit more strict. 457 00:25:19,440 --> 00:25:21,759 Yeah. I've heard people not get the passport 458 00:25:21,760 --> 00:25:23,159 because they're too annoying. 459 00:25:23,160 --> 00:25:24,319 AHMET LAUGHS 460 00:25:24,320 --> 00:25:26,439 Really? A woman, a vegan woman, 461 00:25:26,440 --> 00:25:28,239 was denied Swiss citizenship 462 00:25:28,240 --> 00:25:31,119 because she was too annoying, according to... 463 00:25:31,120 --> 00:25:32,759 ...so anything is a reason. 464 00:25:32,760 --> 00:25:36,879 But the world has a sort of different view 465 00:25:36,880 --> 00:25:38,119 of Switzerland... Yeah. 466 00:25:38,120 --> 00:25:41,199 ...some of which, let's put it this way, the Swiss share and want to 467 00:25:41,200 --> 00:25:42,599 say, "Yeah, that's true..." 468 00:25:42,600 --> 00:25:45,119 Yeah. ..and others which are absolutely sort of false. 469 00:25:45,120 --> 00:25:46,959 The Swiss people have crazy work ethic. 470 00:25:46,960 --> 00:25:49,439 It comes from their Christian Protestant background... 471 00:25:49,440 --> 00:25:51,839 Yeah. ..of work before play. 472 00:25:51,840 --> 00:25:55,119 And I always say Swiss people work hard, but they don't even play hard. 473 00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:56,319 AHMET LAUGHS 474 00:25:56,320 --> 00:25:59,159 There's this sort of like absurd idea in a funny way when you put the 475 00:25:59,160 --> 00:26:00,279 two things together. 476 00:26:00,280 --> 00:26:03,359 They have all these opportunities for leisure, 477 00:26:03,360 --> 00:26:06,079 but they work harder and harder to preserve it, 478 00:26:06,080 --> 00:26:07,919 as if it might suddenly all... 479 00:26:07,920 --> 00:26:10,040 Disappear. ..like Shangri-La, just go, "Ping!" 480 00:26:12,000 --> 00:26:15,519 I've been given a big saying to play with. 481 00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:20,679 Was der bauer nicht kennt, der bauer frisst nicht. 482 00:26:20,680 --> 00:26:23,359 Does that... What the farmer doesn't know, he doesn't eat. 483 00:26:23,360 --> 00:26:24,639 OK. That's perfect. 484 00:26:24,640 --> 00:26:27,079 I think there's always a feeling with Swiss people of like, 485 00:26:27,080 --> 00:26:30,159 "Don't change it. "Don't change anything. It's perfect!" 486 00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:33,079 And that comes into how the country is run... Yeah. Yeah, yeah. 487 00:26:33,080 --> 00:26:36,399 Yeah. ..to the culture, the tradition, everything. 488 00:26:36,400 --> 00:26:37,799 And what about this business? 489 00:26:37,800 --> 00:26:40,519 Some cantons, they still have a public referendum. 490 00:26:40,520 --> 00:26:41,719 Yeah. Yeah. 491 00:26:41,720 --> 00:26:42,919 This is a real thing. 492 00:26:42,920 --> 00:26:46,719 Every Swiss citizen, myself included, we receive votation slips 493 00:26:46,720 --> 00:26:47,919 in the mail... Mm. 494 00:26:47,920 --> 00:26:49,959 ...to vote on anything you can think of. 495 00:26:49,960 --> 00:26:51,479 Yeah. They asked the whole nation, 496 00:26:51,480 --> 00:26:53,439 "Would you like to have more public holidays?" 497 00:26:53,440 --> 00:26:56,079 And in a classic Swiss fashion, Swiss people said, "No." 498 00:26:56,080 --> 00:26:57,279 Ah! 499 00:26:57,280 --> 00:26:59,039 "We don't want more vacation. 500 00:26:59,040 --> 00:27:00,479 "Keep it how it is." 501 00:27:00,480 --> 00:27:04,279 OK, you can rely on the good sense of Swiss, then, in this. Exactly. 502 00:27:04,280 --> 00:27:06,639 But they almost know Swiss people always have their backs. 503 00:27:06,640 --> 00:27:08,559 They're always going to vote the right thing. 504 00:27:08,560 --> 00:27:10,919 So, like, when it comes to joining the EU, 505 00:27:10,920 --> 00:27:12,319 they're like, "No." 506 00:27:12,320 --> 00:27:14,839 When it comes more vacation, "No." 507 00:27:14,840 --> 00:27:17,119 You know, these are... "Let's be sensible." 508 00:27:17,120 --> 00:27:19,079 Yes. Yes! So as long as you ask a question... 509 00:27:19,080 --> 00:27:20,239 That's what being Swiss is. 510 00:27:20,240 --> 00:27:21,759 ...that requires being sensible. 511 00:27:21,760 --> 00:27:22,839 Be sensible. Ah, I see. 512 00:27:22,840 --> 00:27:24,359 That's a great word to describe it. 513 00:27:24,360 --> 00:27:26,280 OK. Isn't that fantastic? 514 00:27:28,920 --> 00:27:30,359 Leaving Interlaken, 515 00:27:30,360 --> 00:27:34,639 I'm going to cross the indigo wonder of Lake Thun, 516 00:27:34,640 --> 00:27:37,479 ringed by forbidding castles, 517 00:27:37,480 --> 00:27:41,320 and aboard the historic paddle steamer Blumlisalp. 518 00:27:44,520 --> 00:27:46,239 You might think that this boat trip 519 00:27:46,240 --> 00:27:50,679 has absolutely nothing to do with inaccessibility. 520 00:27:50,680 --> 00:27:55,319 But, in fact, Switzerland, despite being the centre or the pinnacle 521 00:27:55,320 --> 00:27:56,919 of neutrality, 522 00:27:56,920 --> 00:28:01,479 is henchly a military state, 523 00:28:01,480 --> 00:28:04,399 inasmuch as it has a standing army 524 00:28:04,400 --> 00:28:09,199 and young people have to serve in that military. 525 00:28:09,200 --> 00:28:13,199 It's not just the Swiss army knife that's important, 526 00:28:13,200 --> 00:28:16,559 it's the Swiss army itself. 527 00:28:16,560 --> 00:28:18,519 In the late Middle Ages, 528 00:28:18,520 --> 00:28:22,879 its pike-wielding mercenary soldiers earned a fearsome reputation 529 00:28:22,880 --> 00:28:24,559 across Europe. 530 00:28:24,560 --> 00:28:27,079 They still guard the Pope. 531 00:28:27,080 --> 00:28:28,319 In the 20th century, 532 00:28:28,320 --> 00:28:32,399 the country's greatest weapon became the Alps themselves. 533 00:28:32,400 --> 00:28:36,679 World War II and the Cold War saw defensive armed neutrality 534 00:28:36,680 --> 00:28:40,239 maintained by a wall of mountains. 535 00:28:40,240 --> 00:28:42,479 They hid bunkers, artillery positions 536 00:28:42,480 --> 00:28:45,159 and command centres in them. 537 00:28:45,160 --> 00:28:49,919 Switzerland has always used its inaccessibility as its strength, 538 00:28:49,920 --> 00:28:51,879 but in the alpine pastures, 539 00:28:51,880 --> 00:28:54,120 that strength became a sport. 540 00:28:57,800 --> 00:29:02,519 I'm hoping to meet some people who can envelop me in the traditions 541 00:29:02,520 --> 00:29:03,800 of Switzerland. 542 00:29:06,680 --> 00:29:09,399 In Matten bei Interlaken, 543 00:29:09,400 --> 00:29:13,759 locals have gathered for a truly Swiss day out. 544 00:29:13,760 --> 00:29:16,239 Look at this. This is terrific. 545 00:29:16,240 --> 00:29:19,960 This is like a cow's udder of sauce. 546 00:29:25,040 --> 00:29:28,799 Excellent though that is, it's not the condiments that have drawn 547 00:29:28,800 --> 00:29:30,159 a crowd. 548 00:29:30,160 --> 00:29:34,119 It's schwingen, Swiss wrestling. 549 00:29:34,120 --> 00:29:37,399 It's a traditional form of wrestling 550 00:29:37,400 --> 00:29:40,999 that dates right back to the Middle Ages. 551 00:29:41,000 --> 00:29:43,639 It relates to tradition, 552 00:29:43,640 --> 00:29:47,599 and things that started and identified the Swiss to 553 00:29:47,600 --> 00:29:50,999 their oppressors, who were the French. 554 00:29:51,000 --> 00:29:56,239 This is one of the games that constitute a form of or very similar 555 00:29:56,240 --> 00:29:58,800 to Highland Games. 556 00:30:04,080 --> 00:30:07,159 Oh, yeah. Wow. Hot. It's hot. 557 00:30:07,160 --> 00:30:09,639 But what exactly is going on in the field? 558 00:30:09,640 --> 00:30:12,479 Well, the winner in the green shirt is Paxton, 559 00:30:12,480 --> 00:30:14,239 and he grew up in America. 560 00:30:14,240 --> 00:30:15,999 Moving here as a teenager, 561 00:30:16,000 --> 00:30:18,639 he encountered a different sport. 562 00:30:18,640 --> 00:30:21,879 How does it differ from American wrestling? 563 00:30:21,880 --> 00:30:24,639 Well, in American wrestling, freestyle wrestling, 564 00:30:24,640 --> 00:30:26,079 you don't have any grips. 565 00:30:26,080 --> 00:30:27,639 In here, you're always in the grips. 566 00:30:27,640 --> 00:30:29,359 That's the main part of it. 567 00:30:29,360 --> 00:30:30,639 And the grips are on the shorts? 568 00:30:30,640 --> 00:30:32,839 Yeah. And you're going to throw him down by his shorts? 569 00:30:32,840 --> 00:30:33,879 Yeah. Exactly, yeah. 570 00:30:33,880 --> 00:30:34,959 GRIFF LAUGHS 571 00:30:34,960 --> 00:30:37,239 So you're very tense. You're always ready to go. 572 00:30:37,240 --> 00:30:39,639 It's not like in wrestling where there's a lot of movement. 573 00:30:39,640 --> 00:30:41,399 You're always close to your opponent. 574 00:30:41,400 --> 00:30:44,559 Do you know the history of this, the story of this wrestling? 575 00:30:44,560 --> 00:30:48,559 Yeah. So it used to be a sport that a lot of the farmers in the Alps 576 00:30:48,560 --> 00:30:51,439 used to do, kind of to show their strength and power. 577 00:30:51,440 --> 00:30:56,119 Yeah. And eventually they made it an organisation of a Swiss federation. 578 00:30:56,120 --> 00:30:58,199 Now it's a pretty organised sport. 579 00:30:58,200 --> 00:31:02,599 The biggest event has the biggest mobile arena in the world that sits 580 00:31:02,600 --> 00:31:04,039 around 50,000 people. 581 00:31:04,040 --> 00:31:06,879 So it is a little bit bigger than the Highland Games. 582 00:31:06,880 --> 00:31:08,159 Wow! Yeah, yeah. 583 00:31:08,160 --> 00:31:11,119 I mean, you don't get the whole of Scotland sitting down... No, no. 584 00:31:11,120 --> 00:31:13,400 ...to watch the outcome of the Highland Games. 585 00:31:16,160 --> 00:31:18,519 So, yeah. Yeah. These are the pants. 586 00:31:18,520 --> 00:31:21,439 OK. And they're made out of like a very tough material. 587 00:31:21,440 --> 00:31:23,239 You can feel that. Yeah. 588 00:31:23,240 --> 00:31:24,719 They have said to me, 589 00:31:24,720 --> 00:31:26,760 "Look, Griff, I'm sure... 590 00:31:28,240 --> 00:31:30,599 "..I'm sure that somebody will show you some basic moves." 591 00:31:30,600 --> 00:31:33,159 Yeah. But I don't think that's a really wise idea. 592 00:31:33,160 --> 00:31:35,079 I think... If you want. 593 00:31:35,080 --> 00:31:36,719 Yeah, no, no, no. 594 00:31:36,720 --> 00:31:38,879 I just have to say, I've been given a saying, 595 00:31:38,880 --> 00:31:42,199 and I'm really pleased to try and do this saying... 596 00:31:42,200 --> 00:31:46,639 Mm-hm. ..which is, was der bauer nicht kennt, frisst er nicht. 597 00:31:46,640 --> 00:31:49,479 Yeah. What the farmer doesn't understand... 598 00:31:49,480 --> 00:31:50,719 He won't eat. 599 00:31:50,720 --> 00:31:52,519 ...he won't eat. Yeah, yeah, so... 600 00:31:52,520 --> 00:31:53,959 So I don't think I understand this. 601 00:31:53,960 --> 00:31:55,719 So if that's all right with you, I'm just... 602 00:31:55,720 --> 00:31:58,119 Yeah, that's OK. ..I'm going to pass on the opportunity... 603 00:31:58,120 --> 00:31:59,679 That's OK. ..to learn how to do it. 604 00:31:59,680 --> 00:32:03,199 From village contest to national spectacle, 605 00:32:03,200 --> 00:32:06,960 schwingen is a link to Switzerland's rural past. 606 00:32:25,640 --> 00:32:27,479 We're further up the valley now, 607 00:32:27,480 --> 00:32:28,999 and this is Meiringen, 608 00:32:29,000 --> 00:32:31,680 which is famous, in fact, for, um... 609 00:32:34,000 --> 00:32:35,520 ...for meringues. 610 00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:45,159 I've never been happy with anthropomorphic edibles. 611 00:32:45,160 --> 00:32:47,600 Why would you want to eat something that's smiling at you? 612 00:32:54,120 --> 00:32:55,240 Mm. 613 00:32:57,680 --> 00:32:59,279 Mm. 614 00:32:59,280 --> 00:33:00,959 It's not a street food. 615 00:33:00,960 --> 00:33:02,199 I've littered the pavement. 616 00:33:02,200 --> 00:33:04,639 And in Switzerland, they're very, very keen 617 00:33:04,640 --> 00:33:07,119 on things being absolutely clean. 618 00:33:07,120 --> 00:33:10,919 And look what I've done with my first mouthful of meringue. 619 00:33:10,920 --> 00:33:13,720 I've spread it all over the pavement. 620 00:33:15,280 --> 00:33:16,280 Of course... 621 00:33:19,160 --> 00:33:23,319 ...the Swiss believe that the meringue was invented here 622 00:33:23,320 --> 00:33:24,719 in Meiringen. 623 00:33:24,720 --> 00:33:27,399 The French completely dispute this. 624 00:33:27,400 --> 00:33:31,919 And I don't want to get involved in a local turf war. 625 00:33:31,920 --> 00:33:33,439 But, you know, 626 00:33:33,440 --> 00:33:35,639 mm, mm, 627 00:33:35,640 --> 00:33:37,639 it's good. 628 00:33:37,640 --> 00:33:38,640 It's a meringue. 629 00:33:40,720 --> 00:33:42,640 I could do with some rum or cream. 630 00:33:49,480 --> 00:33:53,439 Of course, there are other food connections to explore in the 631 00:33:53,440 --> 00:33:54,879 Swiss Alps. 632 00:33:54,880 --> 00:34:00,039 Some of them related to cream, but not so obvious. 633 00:34:00,040 --> 00:34:04,759 During the Golden Age of Tourism, that's before the First World War, 634 00:34:04,760 --> 00:34:07,519 when all sorts of grand people came here, 635 00:34:07,520 --> 00:34:12,119 like Mark Twain, who said that Switzerland would really be a very 636 00:34:12,120 --> 00:34:15,079 big country if they just ironed it flat. 637 00:34:15,080 --> 00:34:19,079 But many of them came to this low-lying town 638 00:34:19,080 --> 00:34:21,759 and didn't really want to go any further, 639 00:34:21,760 --> 00:34:24,599 or even were capable of going any further, 640 00:34:24,600 --> 00:34:29,319 because they'd come to Switzerland to get well. 641 00:34:29,320 --> 00:34:32,159 Down here in Interlaken, 642 00:34:32,160 --> 00:34:34,519 they stayed here in clinics 643 00:34:34,520 --> 00:34:41,039 in order to undergo whey wellness cures. 644 00:34:41,040 --> 00:34:46,479 Now, whey is the residue that's left when they make cheese. 645 00:34:46,480 --> 00:34:49,639 And in some of these hotels, 646 00:34:49,640 --> 00:34:51,439 they were clinics. 647 00:34:51,440 --> 00:34:56,239 And people would drink up to nine pints of this stuff a day, 648 00:34:56,240 --> 00:35:01,119 and then in the evening, have a nice bath in it as well. 649 00:35:01,120 --> 00:35:05,399 The nutrient-rich by-product was considered a miracle liquid. 650 00:35:05,400 --> 00:35:08,079 The molkenkur, as it was known in German, 651 00:35:08,080 --> 00:35:11,039 could sort out everything from digestion to skin ailments, 652 00:35:11,040 --> 00:35:15,759 from respiratory disease to circulation, warts and all. 653 00:35:15,760 --> 00:35:19,319 But I've realised that I haven't, in this land of curds and whey, 654 00:35:19,320 --> 00:35:22,519 yet seen how cheese is made. 655 00:35:22,520 --> 00:35:26,839 Farmer Rowland has already moved his cows up from the valley to rich 656 00:35:26,840 --> 00:35:28,079 summer grass. 657 00:35:28,080 --> 00:35:32,759 And I followed them to see what he does with their milk. 658 00:35:32,760 --> 00:35:37,480 Does this milk come all of it from your own cows? 659 00:35:43,920 --> 00:35:47,879 But, of course, you're a farmer, you've got cows and you've got loads 660 00:35:47,880 --> 00:35:49,039 of milk. 661 00:35:49,040 --> 00:35:51,679 If you didn't make cheese, 662 00:35:51,680 --> 00:35:54,479 what would you do with the milk? 663 00:35:54,480 --> 00:35:58,119 One of the reasons that Switzerland is full of cheese 664 00:35:58,120 --> 00:36:01,039 is because there's so much milk. 665 00:36:01,040 --> 00:36:06,119 We're too far to get that milk down the mountain and sell it as milk. 666 00:36:06,120 --> 00:36:08,319 So something needs to be done with it. 667 00:36:08,320 --> 00:36:13,799 And the farmer makes it into cheese, which can last for years and years. 668 00:36:13,800 --> 00:36:17,359 And what's left over 669 00:36:17,360 --> 00:36:19,599 is the whey. 670 00:36:19,600 --> 00:36:22,319 When whey treatments were popular, 671 00:36:22,320 --> 00:36:26,079 all this was collected, put into canisters, 672 00:36:26,080 --> 00:36:29,439 and taken down to Interlaken, to the clinics, 673 00:36:29,440 --> 00:36:33,559 where people were waiting to have their whey baths and drink it, 674 00:36:33,560 --> 00:36:36,359 for the good of their biome. 675 00:36:36,360 --> 00:36:38,279 And do you drink it? 676 00:36:38,280 --> 00:36:39,599 Trink? Trinken? 677 00:36:39,600 --> 00:36:40,760 Yeah. Yeah? 678 00:36:42,080 --> 00:36:46,519 OK. This is the moment for me, going into the whey treatment. 679 00:36:46,520 --> 00:36:47,719 But I have to say, 680 00:36:47,720 --> 00:36:52,959 was der bauer nicht kennt, 681 00:36:52,960 --> 00:36:54,639 frisst er nicht. 682 00:36:54,640 --> 00:36:55,719 Yep. Yep. 683 00:36:55,720 --> 00:36:56,799 ROWLAND LAUGHS 684 00:36:56,800 --> 00:36:59,919 Genau. But this bauer kentt. 685 00:36:59,920 --> 00:37:02,719 He knows this, so he can drink it. 686 00:37:02,720 --> 00:37:05,159 I've never drunk it before. 687 00:37:05,160 --> 00:37:06,320 Prost. Prost. 688 00:37:08,000 --> 00:37:11,160 Mm. 689 00:37:13,000 --> 00:37:16,719 Mm. No, I mean, utterly delicious. 690 00:37:16,720 --> 00:37:18,599 I was expecting something 691 00:37:18,600 --> 00:37:20,159 complicated and difficult to drink. 692 00:37:20,160 --> 00:37:24,719 No, it's absolutely, it's like sort of milk-flavoured water. 693 00:37:24,720 --> 00:37:25,839 Mm. Mm? 694 00:37:25,840 --> 00:37:27,119 Danke. Good? 695 00:37:27,120 --> 00:37:28,120 Yeah. 696 00:37:29,480 --> 00:37:34,759 What's utterly magnificent and true all over these upland farms 697 00:37:34,760 --> 00:37:38,679 is this is a complete cottage industry. 698 00:37:38,680 --> 00:37:43,399 We're not in a process of industrialised food manufacture. 699 00:37:43,400 --> 00:37:44,839 The cows are here. 700 00:37:44,840 --> 00:37:47,199 The cheese is made here. 701 00:37:47,200 --> 00:37:51,719 And it's eaten outside and down in the town as well. 702 00:37:51,720 --> 00:37:52,880 Wonderful. 703 00:37:54,560 --> 00:37:55,800 Slow food. 704 00:38:03,480 --> 00:38:09,119 There's a lot of emphasis in history of the Alps on peaks and mountains, 705 00:38:09,120 --> 00:38:11,919 climbing and descending and conquering. 706 00:38:11,920 --> 00:38:15,559 But, in fact, the real glory of this place 707 00:38:15,560 --> 00:38:21,199 is these wonderful meadows and forests merging together. 708 00:38:21,200 --> 00:38:22,440 In fact... 709 00:38:23,840 --> 00:38:26,959 ...the whole beauty of this area 710 00:38:26,960 --> 00:38:30,479 is maintained not by the tourist industry, 711 00:38:30,480 --> 00:38:32,079 not by the communes, 712 00:38:32,080 --> 00:38:34,200 but by the farmers. 713 00:38:37,760 --> 00:38:41,039 Now, if I go higher, and I am going up, 714 00:38:41,040 --> 00:38:43,559 I find that the grass is still yellow. 715 00:38:43,560 --> 00:38:47,399 It's only just emerging from under the snow in June. 716 00:38:47,400 --> 00:38:50,879 In a month's time, it will experience its own late spring 717 00:38:50,880 --> 00:38:54,359 and the cows will come up here to enjoy it. 718 00:38:54,360 --> 00:38:58,599 This yearly upward trek is called transhumance. 719 00:38:58,600 --> 00:39:01,799 It's an annual cow migration. 720 00:39:01,800 --> 00:39:05,399 The high meadows are grazed like mountain lawns. 721 00:39:05,400 --> 00:39:07,359 And it's said that, up here, 722 00:39:07,360 --> 00:39:09,079 another tradition was also born. 723 00:39:09,080 --> 00:39:10,640 YODELLING MUSIC PLAYS 724 00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:17,039 Some say that the unique vocal gymnastic style of yodelling 725 00:39:17,040 --> 00:39:18,799 wasn't invented by the Swiss. 726 00:39:18,800 --> 00:39:23,399 Its origins are a mystery, but the Swiss certainly took to it. 727 00:39:23,400 --> 00:39:25,519 Originally to communicate with fellow farmers 728 00:39:25,520 --> 00:39:28,319 and to call their animals from across the valleys, 729 00:39:28,320 --> 00:39:31,440 now it's top of the Swiss pops. 730 00:39:33,840 --> 00:39:35,519 Ja! Whoo! 731 00:39:35,520 --> 00:39:38,079 How brilliant! Wunderbar! 732 00:39:38,080 --> 00:39:39,719 Danke schoen! 733 00:39:39,720 --> 00:39:41,439 Thank you, sir. 734 00:39:41,440 --> 00:39:43,039 Thank you so much. Thank you. 735 00:39:43,040 --> 00:39:44,759 It's just absolutely beautiful. 736 00:39:44,760 --> 00:39:46,959 Thank you. Thank you so much. Thank you. 737 00:39:46,960 --> 00:39:49,839 What a magnificent yodelling voice you have, Melanie. 738 00:39:49,840 --> 00:39:52,119 You are all a family. Yes. Yes. Yes. 739 00:39:52,120 --> 00:39:54,799 So this yodel, we, I don't know. 740 00:39:54,800 --> 00:39:56,519 SHE SPEAKS GERMAN 741 00:39:56,520 --> 00:39:57,799 30 years. 30 years. 742 00:39:57,800 --> 00:39:58,999 30, yeah, yeah. 743 00:39:59,000 --> 00:40:03,599 Swiss yodelling is now also a Unesco heritage. 744 00:40:03,600 --> 00:40:05,119 I read that. Not the yodel... 745 00:40:05,120 --> 00:40:07,399 Apparently... ..from us, but the traditional. 746 00:40:07,400 --> 00:40:13,439 No, no, no, but the traditional has the same status as a French baguette 747 00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:16,079 and a Congolese rumba. 748 00:40:16,080 --> 00:40:21,039 Yes. And it's one of the traditions that is being preserved by Unesco 749 00:40:21,040 --> 00:40:22,639 and given a status. 750 00:40:22,640 --> 00:40:27,559 Now, why do the Swiss love tradition so much? 751 00:40:27,560 --> 00:40:30,199 I think it's our identity. 752 00:40:30,200 --> 00:40:32,279 It's our history... 753 00:40:32,280 --> 00:40:33,519 Yes. Yeah. 754 00:40:33,520 --> 00:40:39,199 ...to go this way and, yes, to be proud of all these traditions. 755 00:40:39,200 --> 00:40:41,959 Yes. So let me say, here in Switzerland, 756 00:40:41,960 --> 00:40:44,399 it's cool to be traditional. 757 00:40:44,400 --> 00:40:46,440 SHE YODELS 758 00:41:18,600 --> 00:41:22,239 HE YODELS 759 00:41:22,240 --> 00:41:23,559 Yeah. Oh, yes! 760 00:41:23,560 --> 00:41:24,560 Hey! 761 00:41:27,440 --> 00:41:31,119 In this once remote and heavily defended country, 762 00:41:31,120 --> 00:41:34,639 instant accessibility seems now to be the key. 763 00:41:34,640 --> 00:41:37,279 I've already hiked, kayaked, rafted, 764 00:41:37,280 --> 00:41:41,399 boated, cog trained and cable carred. 765 00:41:41,400 --> 00:41:44,559 But there are four more countries for me to investigate, 766 00:41:44,560 --> 00:41:50,160 and now it's time to fly, both figuratively and literally. 767 00:41:53,440 --> 00:41:54,839 Yep. OK. Fantastic, mate. Yeah. 768 00:41:54,840 --> 00:41:56,399 Is it all right? Good. Looking good. 769 00:41:56,400 --> 00:41:58,359 That's good. OK. 770 00:41:58,360 --> 00:42:01,679 What I'm in is a wing, and it's a hang glider. 771 00:42:01,680 --> 00:42:05,199 And down there is Interlaken, 772 00:42:05,200 --> 00:42:08,679 where I hope to arrive and catch my train onwards 773 00:42:08,680 --> 00:42:11,679 to another part of the Alps. 774 00:42:11,680 --> 00:42:17,879 See, what we have to do, though, is wait for exactly the right wind. 775 00:42:17,880 --> 00:42:20,799 I mean, that's the real dilemma, 776 00:42:20,800 --> 00:42:25,479 because if the wind is blowing wrongly... 777 00:42:25,480 --> 00:42:27,599 ...then it doesn't give us the lift we need. 778 00:42:27,600 --> 00:42:28,720 And... 779 00:42:31,360 --> 00:42:32,599 ...we need lift. 780 00:42:32,600 --> 00:42:34,039 Nice and tall. Very tall. 781 00:42:34,040 --> 00:42:35,319 So here goes. 782 00:42:35,320 --> 00:42:38,679 My life in the hands of Bernie the Birdman. 783 00:42:38,680 --> 00:42:40,319 Good strong run. Three, two, one. 784 00:42:40,320 --> 00:42:41,640 Go! Run, run, run, run, run! 785 00:42:42,880 --> 00:42:44,279 GRIFF GASPS 786 00:42:44,280 --> 00:42:46,240 Well, that seems to have worked. 787 00:42:53,400 --> 00:42:54,679 Well, there we are. 788 00:42:54,680 --> 00:43:00,120 We've just launched ourselves, effectively, into the open air... 789 00:43:01,440 --> 00:43:03,559 ...into space. 790 00:43:03,560 --> 00:43:08,799 Above Interlaken, below me, I can see the lake, Lake Thun, 791 00:43:08,800 --> 00:43:10,559 where I first arrived, 792 00:43:10,560 --> 00:43:13,479 and the railway that ran alongside it. 793 00:43:13,480 --> 00:43:18,319 I'm very conscious of my challenge, my advice, which was, was der bauer 794 00:43:18,320 --> 00:43:21,640 nicht kennt... 795 00:43:22,920 --> 00:43:23,920 ...frisst er nicht... 796 00:43:25,280 --> 00:43:29,759 ...or what the farmer doesn't know, 797 00:43:29,760 --> 00:43:32,319 he won't eat, he shouldn't eat. 798 00:43:32,320 --> 00:43:36,439 And I think it's a wonderful conservative idea. 799 00:43:36,440 --> 00:43:39,999 You need to know what you're about to do 800 00:43:40,000 --> 00:43:41,799 before you do it. 801 00:43:41,800 --> 00:43:44,839 And that conservatism has run through 802 00:43:44,840 --> 00:43:47,399 the whole of Switzerland that I've seen. 803 00:43:47,400 --> 00:43:50,799 It preserves these beautiful fields beneath us, 804 00:43:50,800 --> 00:43:54,759 the most gorgeous and delightful chalets, 805 00:43:54,760 --> 00:43:59,759 and the general state of cleanliness and order in this wonderful, 806 00:43:59,760 --> 00:44:01,719 extraordinary country. 807 00:44:01,720 --> 00:44:05,320 But it's also true to say that if I'd stuck to it absolutely... 808 00:44:06,880 --> 00:44:08,800 ...I wouldn't be doing this, would I? 809 00:44:26,320 --> 00:44:27,919 All right! 810 00:44:27,920 --> 00:44:29,320 Have we landed? 811 00:44:31,040 --> 00:44:33,119 We've landed. Hey, Griff. 812 00:44:33,120 --> 00:44:34,799 Hey, how was that, mate? 813 00:44:34,800 --> 00:44:36,639 That was good. It was good. 814 00:44:36,640 --> 00:44:39,840 Das Erda! Das Erda! 815 00:44:41,320 --> 00:44:43,039 The earth. Is it a das? 816 00:44:43,040 --> 00:44:44,479 Is it a neutral or is it a der Erde? 817 00:44:44,480 --> 00:44:46,079 You know what? Good question. 818 00:44:46,080 --> 00:44:47,639 Yeah. Well, anyway, here we are. 819 00:44:47,640 --> 00:44:48,759 We're on the earth. 820 00:44:48,760 --> 00:44:51,959 And that was an amazing flight. 821 00:44:51,960 --> 00:44:54,279 That was escapism. 822 00:44:54,280 --> 00:44:55,519 Well done! 823 00:44:55,520 --> 00:44:56,919 What a flight, man! 824 00:44:56,920 --> 00:44:58,240 Thank you very much. 825 00:44:59,600 --> 00:45:01,319 Well, that's about it. 826 00:45:01,320 --> 00:45:06,199 My time in this extraordinary country is now coming to an end. 827 00:45:06,200 --> 00:45:08,400 And this being Switzerland... 828 00:45:10,120 --> 00:45:15,559 ...my train, which is going to carry me further east into the Alps, 829 00:45:15,560 --> 00:45:16,920 will be on time. 830 00:45:24,280 --> 00:45:25,599 Next time. 831 00:45:25,600 --> 00:45:31,519 {\an8}It's the sense of overpowering gigantism of the Dolomites. 832 00:45:31,520 --> 00:45:33,239 {\an8}I'm going higher and higher. 833 00:45:33,240 --> 00:45:34,640 {\an8}I'm going like this. 834 00:45:39,040 --> 00:45:42,040 Subtitles by Red Bee Media